Are any of these insitu draws which were removed still knocking about? I'm in the process of getting the BMC's portable test machine up and running, if it's ready in time then breaking some of the draws would be quite a topical subject for the next Area Meeting, to compliment the excellent DMM video.
I'll email Stone to see if he wants the slings back. They would have had some action.
I have some old (c.20 years) well stored and not used much (ie non UV'd but old) QD's you can test if you like?As well as some old (30 years?) ones - origin unknown?In fact there would probably be great merit in testing as many as possible from a range of ages, so you get a good number of results (max, min, averages, distributions etc..)? I'm sure folk on here have a range of old kit they wouldnt mind donating for research?
Dylan and I went on Mecca last night. Dylan, who is practically a pygmy he's so small was able to bolt to bolt the entire thing in five minutes without even so much as a clip stick. I think he commented how perfectly warmed up he felt after this, and went on to redpoint the route in fine style. (Some of the above is lies)
Quote from: dobbin on August 12, 2011, 03:27:25 pmDylan and I went on Mecca last night. Dylan, who is practically a pygmy he's so small was able to bolt to bolt the entire thing in five minutes without even so much as a clip stick. I think he commented how perfectly warmed up he felt after this, and went on to redpoint the route in fine style. (Some of the above is lies)I hope he took the clips out between redpoints? During the day is, of course, when draws are most visible - not during the night (you know, when they've been left in by those sport climbing types). Why am I asking? Being such a fine chap of course he will have taken them out!
Sounds like it would make a great dissertation/project for any Undergrads studying engineering/material science who climb.... volunteers??
I am of course 6ft 4
Mammut is urgently calling for the immediate discontinuation of use and removal of permanently installed quick draws and carabiners in climbing areas. Irrespective of the manufacturer of such equipment, repeated wear can result in the formation of sharp edges capable of damaging or completely severing ropes, even in relatively small falls. Investigations by Mammut have shown that this known problem is actually far more dramatic than previously assumed and represents a very high risk for climbers.
http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/journal/climb//qc-lab-dangers-of-rope-worn-carabiners
...Steel krabs or cheap poorly polished alloy ones trash moving ropes, matt anodising is particularly bad too....
There are some stainless Krabs on the market, however they are not very easy to clip, and are pretty expensive, compared to alloy ones.I also saw some permanent draws with wire instead of slings, however the rope clipping Karb would need to be stainless to limit wear.Isn't it about time the climbing walls put some demands on the gear manufacturers to have some nice stainless biners that are easy to clip. With the number of walls in the UK surely there would be a good market for this. A stainless version of the the alpha would be a massive seller as these are used in an industrial / rather than leisure situation.