Quote from: Ru on July 17, 2011, 11:47:31 am the situ draws on Mecca. these all seem to have been replaced, interestingly there is a new biner on the 3rd (4th) but the old shonky tape! weird! do we really need these? (I do for my aid climbing, but I wouldn't be upset if they were taken out)
the situ draws on Mecca.
I have kept all the old tapes/draws, so if anyone knows who they belonged to I can return them
Quote from: saltbeef on July 20, 2011, 09:43:38 amQuote from: Ru on July 17, 2011, 11:47:31 am the situ draws on Mecca. these all seem to have been replaced, interestingly there is a new biner on the 3rd (4th) but the old shonky tape! weird! do we really need these? (I do for my aid climbing, but I wouldn't be upset if they were taken out)I replaced these. The 4th bolt has the old tape on it because I got the new gear from DMM and they had run out of 25cm tapes. The tape length is quite crucial on that bolt, and that particular tape wasn't in too bad condition, so I have just left it for now. I replaced what I could because the existing gear was becoming unsafe - the existing tapes were faded, abraded and in some cases significantly torn (~1/4 tape width on the worst) and because the biners themselves had severe rope grooves (the worst was worn down to ~1/3 of the biner thickness) with sharp edges which were trashing my rope very quickly. I had seen this debate, but I don't feel it's my place to decide whether the gear should be there or not. As far as I'm concerned if there is going to be fixed gear in the route it should at least be safe. Now it is.
but if there isn't a real access issue then that in itself is no reason not to do something
I don't know about the access at other crags, but I do know that Raven Tor is owned by the National Trust and they regularly inspect the crag. I also know, having asked them during one such visit, that they neither understand nor like fixed gear and when asked which fixed gear they were referring to it was the situ draws on Mecca.
Perma-draws were not deemed necessary on these routes 5-10 years ago. What's changed?
righto - draws are out of mecca. the new bits are in the cave at the bottom if you want to go and get them. the rotten bits, one was cut a third of the way through, have been taken for testing. maillons are somewhere else to discourage re equippage.
My general point (when not just winding people up) through all of this has been that people have different ideas about what is generally acceptable and that these ideas may develop over time. Where access is not an issue, I see no reason for a blanket proscription on leaving draws in, even if it seems lazy to you. Personally I find yorkshire top-roping/headpointing of sport routes and Shark-style dependence on clipsticks pretty distasteful, but I accept that these people have a different take on things. Fuck i sound like a right hippie.
Its a matter of taste.
And clearly a step back? Or not...
Where access is not an issue, I see no reason for a blanket proscription on leaving draws in, even if it seems lazy to you.
Personally I find yorkshire top-roping/headpointing of sport routes and Shark-style dependence on clipsticks pretty distasteful, but I accept that these people have a different take on things.
Personally I find yorkshire top-roping/headpointing of sport routes and Shark-style dependence on clipsticks pretty distasteful, but I accept that these people have a different take on things. Fuck i sound like a right cunt
sorry to anyone offended by the new biners.If anyone's going there tonight and wouldn't mind picking them up before they become someone's crag-swag, that'd be greatly appreciated.
On the old tape/krabs I'd also be interested to know there destruction data, especially the draw at the bottom of the groove as I've taken big lobs on it.
Ignoring the access/eyesore issue this is a pretty crucial runner on Mecca, with people skipping the 3rd bolt (which is normal) and then often falling off the crux onto the 4th bolt if this did snap you would be hitting the ground.