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Mono bulge stuff - Burbage [inc some new probs 6b - 7b] (Read 31415 times)

205Chris

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little vid of monochrome.

Vertebrate graphics looking hard at work there  ;)

cofe

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Hey man, that's way after we finish work at 1pm...

nai

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what's the consensus on grade, been given 7B there but I recall Dave mooting 7B+ originally?


nai

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Ahh, yes maybe should have looked back at that first.  Also answers questions I had re the landing.

Cheers

Scouse D

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good to see all this keeness.monochrome was one of my fave problems of last year, really quality moves

Bonjoy

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Nice one Leeroy. Sorry about all my moving around spoiling your continuity!

cofe

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Nice edit Leeroy.

Johnny Brown

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Quote
Sorry about all my moving around spoiling your continuity!

Ditto, I had a sudden realisation I'd stood right in the way on that last go.

leeroy

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Sorry about all my moving around spoiling your continuity!

Ditto, I had a sudden realisation I'd stood right in the way on that last go.

yeh you pull a great expression on the vid when you realise  :)

no worries about continuity, main purpose is to show the moves anyway.

a dense loner

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Jon, Iain's prob goes up for asylum sika and breaks leftwards at the "A" on the pic. Basically if u were to bring the red line of mono bulge rh in an inch u would have the line of Iain's prob. Don't get me wrong it looks shit

a dense loner

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Just watched monochrome vid, it looks a superb prob. I know where I'll be tomorrow night

Jim

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In the attic with a blurred fist?

a dense loner

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Yes but that's after light fades

Johnny Brown

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Well 'Asylum Sika' is basically Le Proue without the high kick at the start. Soft 8a they're saying.

a dense loner

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No point gettin on that then if there's no high feet. Will stick to the others

Bonjoy

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Jon, Iain's prob goes up for asylum sika and breaks leftwards at the "A" on the pic. Basically if u were to bring the red line of mono bulge rh in an inch u would have the line of Iain's prob. Don't get me wrong it looks shit
Went back this morn to glue flake properly (hopefully sorted now) and had another look at this. I think I get what Iain climbed but I'm pretty sure the obvious breakage of the middle flake has made it a much harder and less logical line. Looks like the flake might have been a good foothold (maybe a heel-toe) which would have made it possible to gain the arete using the blind rails. Probably still doable though but looks at least three grades harder than the 7a it was given.
« Last Edit: May 05, 2012, 02:55:58 pm by Bonjoy, Reason: Correction/update »

Jim

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these look like a cracking set of probs, can't wait to climb at that grade again and go and tick them

tomtom

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these look like a cracking set of probs, can't wait to climb at that grade again and go and tick them

How is the arm getting on Jim?

205Chris

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Another couple of ascents of Monochrome today. I'd echo what's been said, it's a class problem, can't believe it went undiscovered for so long.

I went out early this morning with only 2 mats and it would have felt nicer with either a third pad and / or a spot. Disappointingly it was covered it tick marks, suffice to say these were all removed before I left. Given all the chalk from recent ascents it's not exactly difficult to spot the holds.

Went back in the afternoon as a mate was keen and unfortunately someone had broken the large flake hold on what I presume was Asylum Sika or Snappy duds, can't quite work it out looking at the picture I'm afraid. The hold has been left under the problem, not sure if anything can be done with it?

Jim

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these look like a cracking set of probs, can't wait to climb at that grade again and go and tick them

How is the arm getting on Jim?
arm is fine thanks, just been hampered by some virus for a few months and major house extension thats taken up all my time and energy.

cofe

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A vid of more of the problems hereabouts, in case anyone fancies snapping more holds off and drawing more lines:


leeroy

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nice video and tribute also.

Duma

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Disappointingly it was covered it tick marks, suffice to say these were all removed before I left. Given all the chalk from recent ascents it's not exactly difficult to spot the holds.
FFS!

Bonjoy

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Good skills Cofe.



Went back in the afternoon as a mate was keen and unfortunately someone had broken the large flake hold on what I presume was Asylum Sika or Snappy duds, can't quite work it out looking at the picture I'm afraid. The hold has been left under the problem, not sure if anything can be done with it?
Balls  :no:! Hope it doesn't go walk about before I get a chance to have a look and try to sort. Was it in one piece? Can you figure out from the vid if it was the start flake on AS (the leftmost low flake, close to the left arete)?
If anyone else goes here soon can they stash the hold somewhere safe and PM me the whereabouts, thanks.

 

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