Sorry, Monochrome
erm, Sam, of this parish, did it without the heelhook. He just laid one on for the right hand crimp above the bulge with his left heel on. This meant he didn't need to do all the heel faffing and could just get on with slapping up the left arete. He's not strong but he is long, i.e. if you can reach the hold, you could stick it.
I couldn't get away with that so did it with the heel release and swap. It was the crux for me, when I got it, I did the problem. I had to virtually take the left heel off, staically hold myslef, then slowly raise my right otherwise my left hand peeled off. The lad I was with when I did it could happily release his left and swing his right up in a fluid movement. This seeemd the living end for me......
