Are you only beastmakering in periods 1 and 2? ... If so that sounds wack. Maybe train on a wall and throw some hangs in in the middle or at the end of the session.
If I read it right your max hangs session only involves 9 hangs? That would be totally wack.
I just start a watch going and hang on each minute for 45min to 1 hour after warming up. (Though I've not done any of this for a year since I'm currently a euro climbing bum ) Why is there a 10min rest in your max hang session?
Why only 30-45min board sessions?
If I read it right your max hangs session only involves 9 hangs? That would be totally wack. I just start a watch going and hang on each minute for 45min to 1 hour after warming up.
45-60 reps isn't max hangs which ever way you spin it.
I don't see how anybody could possibly do 45-60 max hangs, unless they are just holding on for 5 secs and letting go, instead of making sure you are weighted up so that you fail at about 5s.
Steering slightly back on topic.My current structure for max hangs is as follows (max hangs is current phase, aim is finger strength):2 or 3 sets, each set consisting of;• near straight arm on front 2• half lock on front 2• full lock on front 2does 2 or 3 sets consist of one rep hang per set? What duration hang? 2 or 3 mins rest between inbetween each set or straight back on? I'm guessing not repeaters as this is more power endurance? Just a query really i'm Still trying to get my head round the best way to train on fingerboard etc.
I can't hang the good edge 1 handed,
Wait a minute, when we're talking about 'the good edge' is it the central rung on the bottom row of a 2000 series? or the crimps to the sides? if the former, you're going to have to bring out witnesses for your recent ascents, weakling
does 2 or 3 sets consist of one rep hang per set? What duration hang? 2 or 3 mins rest between inbetween each set or straight back on? I'm guessing not repeaters as this is more power endurance? Just a query really i'm Still trying to get my head round the best way to train on fingerboard etc.
Quote from: Steve R on June 27, 2011, 05:42:08 pmWait a minute, when we're talking about 'the good edge' is it the central rung on the bottom row of a 2000 series? or the crimps to the sides? if the former, you're going to have to bring out witnesses for your recent ascents, weakling Yup, the central rung. I am that weak. Home on Saturday though to sort that out and get strong! (Back up north mid-July, you around in Sheffield this summer?)Never fear, I can provide full witnesses. Though some of them are Spanish so probably don't count.
As long as they didn't arrive at dawn on bicycles you are probably OK.
Jasper - I know. Too much route climbing makes Alex a weak boy. Though actually I've never been able to hang that edge. In conclusion, maybe it's best to ignore everything I have to say about finger strength training!