[heelhookofglory]

does 2 or 3 sets consist of one rep hang per set? What duration hang? 2 or 3 mins rest between inbetween each set or straight back on? I'm guessing not repeaters as this is more power endurance? Just a query really i'm Still trying to get my head round the best way to train on fingerboard etc.

Each max hang set consists of 5 hangs at a duration of 5 seconds per hang. 10 seconds off between each hang and 2 mins rest between each set. Weight is added where necessary to ensure that 5 seconds is all I can hold for.

When I'm doing repeaters / encores, I do 6 hangs per set. Hang for 6 seconds and off for 3 seconds. No weight. 2 mins rest between sets.

[Jaspersharpe]

Wait a minute, when we're talking about 'the good edge' is it the central rung on the bottom row of a 2000 series? or the crimps to the sides?  if the former, you're going to have to bring out witnesses for your recent ascents, weakling

Yup, the central rung. I am that weak. Home on Saturday though to sort that out and get strong! (Back up north mid-July, you around in Sheffield this summer?)
Never fear, I can provide full witnesses. Though some of them are Spanish so probably don't count.

WTF!!?? If you can climb 8c with that little finger strength then you should be climbing at least 9a. After 3 months off it only took me a few sessions to go from not being able to hang that edge at all to doing 10 second reps on each arm & I was still piss weak then!

Get on the fingerboard immediately!

  

[abarro81]

As long as they didn't arrive at dawn on bicycles you are probably OK.

These are real Spaniards - they don't arrive at a crag before 2 in the afternoon.

Jasper - I know. Too much route climbing makes Alex a weak boy. Though actually I've never been able to hang that edge. In conclusion, maybe it's best to ignore everything I have to say about finger strength training!

[shark]

Jasper - I know. Too much route climbing makes Alex a weak boy. Though actually I've never been able to hang that edge. In conclusion, maybe it's best to ignore everything I have to say about finger strength training!

You are comfortable on the monos though. Is this another case of not engaging shoulder before hanging?

I can't hang an edge 1 handed either for much over a second though I'm pretty pleased to be able to do that