[Paul B]

Continuing on with my quest to learn how to climb in the direct reverse of what is sensible, I'm looking for some suggestions for E4's, currently on grit as the weather is behaving itself.

Ideal candidates would have protection and shouldn't essentially be highballs. I'm still in the process of ticking off some massively glaring omissions (mostly at Millstone as part of the bigger picture of learning how cracks work) from my list but aspirational list making has taken over and I'm noting a severe lack of 4's.

Any help is greatly appreciated. Any humurous suggestions that leave me in a gibbering wreck are not.

[GCW]

Are we to presume you would prefer well protected routes?   

[Probes]

Chalk Storm @ Roaches     

[grimer]

Moon Walk, Usurper, Forbidden Planet, Hurricane at Curbar

Caesarian, Chameleon and Borstal Breakout on Hen Cloud (oh my god, what a trio)

The Lawrencefield cracks behind the pool.

Saucius Digitalis at Shining Clough (desperate), Calamity Crack at Running Hill Pits, Bob Hope, Dovestones

(last three good for hot weather alternatives.

[Jaspersharpe]

 

Moonwalk is really good. If you're at Millstone then Coventry Street and Tea for Two?

[jern]

Grand Illusion at the 'Cliff

Wellington Crack

[grimer]

Moonwalk is really good. If you're at Millstone then Coventry Street and Tea for Two?

Oh Jesus, Tea for Two, that's a cheeky one :-)

[duncan]

Moon Walk, Usurper, Forbidden Planet, Hurricane at Curbar

Usurper you say?

I've also had a Curbar slapping.

Calvary is one of two grit E4s I have got up, so it can't be hard.  I know not everyone is convinced by the gear at the top but it seemed OK to me.  Bizarrely, Ramshaw Crack is the other, but this is possibly specialist taste.  If Grand Illusion is now E4 then that is definitely a good call.

[Jaspersharpe]

Ha ha! grimer you cunt:

jesus all them curbar E4s are fucking bastards - usurper, forbidden planet, hurricane, dark entries. You get a right sweat on with those.

 

[wiain]

Moonwalk is escellent. Potential long fall form the top but you wouldn't hit owt.
I fluffed Usurper and backed off but it is safe and I'm told it's good.
The three around Billy Whiz, of which one is now down to E3: I've only done one but mates have done others and given very good reports.
Flute of Hope on higgar? Not done it but looks brilliant.
Auto Da Fe at Rivelin - I found it really tough but it was pretty safe and very good.
Chameleon at Stanage? another one that spanked me but safe I think.

Actually, I'll stop now. There seems to be a theme that most of the safe but harder E4s spanked me. I'm suffering here from having historically been crap but bold. Praps I'd better try some of them again and see if I'm less crap yet.

[shark]

In the Amber Valley I humbley and bravely recommend Whisper E4/5 at The Secret Garden (Chasecliffe) and Master of Suspense at Turning Stone Edge and Bristol Dream at eatswood Rocks. Apparently there is bouldering at eatswood too these days 

Indoor Fisherman at Froggatt and Rasp Direct at Higgar haven't been mentioned are ace and fit your bill.

[Jaspersharpe]

The three around Billy Whiz, of which one is now down to E3: I've only done one but mates have

Boulevard was E3 6a when I did it (over 20 years ago) then went up to E4 and then down it seems to E3 5c! I think the confusion is because it's next to Billy Whizz which is actually a harder route despite getting E2 5c. Nonsense. Boulevard is a very good route whatever the grade.

[lagerstarfish]

Another vote for Wellington Crack (Ilkley)

It starts from a high ledge - from which the first piece of gear can be placed at arms reach. Then there is plenty of gear all the way.

Oh, and crux low down just to make it more appealing for anyone with low balls to guns ratio

[Palomides]

Of those which have been mentioned both Moonwalk and Calvary are brilliant but a bit on the scary side at the top.

Autumn Wall at Wharncliffe is brilliant with spaced but solid gear.

Profit of Doom used to be on everyone's list, but I'm not sure what shape the nut slot will be in now (I preplaced a wire for a friend about 12 years ago and it was worn but OK then).

How about Nectar? Hathersage Trip? No More Excuses (OK it's a highball-ish start and an easy finish)? Deborah (might have to wait for proper summer)? Traveller in Time? Gypfast?

[dave]

Auto Da Fe at Rivelin - I found it really tough but it was pretty safe and very good.

Yeah I found this hard too. Hard but good.

Moonwalk is a great route, and essentially safe.

The strangler at stanage is also very good, airy but again relatively safe.

Calvary never appeals to me - i belayed a mate on it once, climbing on it didn't look that interesting, and the rock is not the best.

Wings of Unreason?

[wiain]

Autumn Wall at Wharncliffe is brilliant with spaced but solid gear.

I nearly recommended this but remembered the start being pretty bold. Good gear after that though.

How about Nectar? Hathersage Trip? Traveller in Time? Gypfast?

I've not done Nectar but did wonder. HT was certainly safe but didn't know if it was classic enough to recommend. TIT gets E3 nowadays so I discounted it but is a good recommendation if Paul will stoop that far.

The strangler at stanage is also very good, airy but again relatively safe.

I was never sure the Strangler was safe. Falling off the last move would be uncomfortably close. Has it been tested?

[Nigel]

Indoor Fisherman is a great recommendation. One of the best E4's around. Most of the recommendations given so far are spot on actually, you won't go far wrong. I would put another vote in for the Millstone ones, especially since if you end up at home on the cracks and the general style there the E5's feel the same as the E4's e.g. Coventry Street and Jermyn Street.

[Steve R]

Few more that spring to mind.  Sforzando on great tor, derwent feels wild but is safe and good for hot weather.  Chameleon, stanage popular is safe and not a bad route - prob want it reasonably cool to enjoy it though.  Diet of Worms and Rat Scabies would be good to do with moonwalk when at curbar - all 3 are medium bold I'd say.  I would say downhill racer but it doesn't fit the bill (considering it's a quaried slab it is amazing and steady pulling down on positive holds all the way though....)

[kingholmesy]

Grand Ilusion, Jet Runner and Wings of Unreason are all safe and fairly soft. I would particularly recommend Wings - the leap for the top is great.

[slackline]

(mostly at Millstone as part of the bigger picture of learning how cracks work)

Sentinel Crack 

[benpritch]

skip E4- they tend to be much bolder propositions than a some clip up E5s like -

moonshine - curbar
moon crack curbar

strapo wotsit - froggatt

london wall - millstone
jermyn street - millstone

goosey goosey - stanage



will also vote for indoor fisherman though

[Tom de Gay]

All the classics accounted for there. Nettle Wine's E4 in the new guide, and seems to fit the description. Goliath?

[Gus]

"Traveller in Time" at Ramshaw is a good un, that was one of my firsts along with wings.

Someone mentioned "flute of hope" at higgar, quite tough that, even though it used to get e3!!

"Old Friends" at stanagwe high neb might not fit the bill as it's super bold, but it is awesome, and in the shade in the afternoon onwards

"moonwalk" at curbar is pretty perfect

Give me a shout if you need a belayer dude!!

[Bonjoy]

Mostly good recommendations so far, though Grimer’s suggestion of Hurricane at Curbar is a very cheeky sandbag indeed! Great route though.
My contributions:
Snug as a Thug, Stanage – Tough but brilliant. Safe if you can place cams properly (also bomber wire on crux which isn’t super obvious). Worth bringing mat for the moves up to first gear.
Nettle Wine, Cratcliffe – Tough end of E4 (used to get E5) but very safe. Essentially a really excellent F6c-ish boulder prob just above a break full of bomber cams.
National Power, Turning Stone Edge – Safe fun roof moves on curly crimps. A bit scrappy before and after the good bit but would make a brilliant day out if you did this, Shark's recommendation of Master of Suspense and then nipped over to Cocking Tor to do Cyclops’ Eye and Jelly Ache.
Licence to Run, Roaches – Safe and fun though you’ll prob end up spending more time placing gear than climbing
Silent Spring (pitch 2), Burbage South – Requires abbing into the ledge and belaying off the rope but well worth the hassle. About as out there as you get on grit whilst still being safe. More satisfying if you also do the short and rather bold first pitch but the real quality is on pitch 2. Could also be extended into Offspring which has more super safe ‘out there’ climbing at E5
Off With His Head and Chameleon, both Stanage Popular end – Tough safe bouldery stepped roofs
Autumn Wall, Wharncliffe - Quite soft. Excellent safe wall climbing

[John Gillott]

Remergence at Burbage North? After all those years doing the start as a bouldering warmup it might be satisfying to top it out.