[Paul B]

Give me a shout if you need a belayer dude!!

Cheers dude, ditto if you fancy a soft landing!

[mark s]

ignore wings paul,its a good climb but you will walk away thinking the walk along the skyline is harder.
as per grimer,the big 3 at hen cloud are all stunning.all falloffable but none a path.
ceasarian is top end e4,tricky move from an undercut to the first big break,good finger locks and jams and some typical hencloud roundedness
borstal is just a little sequence move on small edges
chameleon is safe but feels exposed

[Fiend]

Autumn Wall is easy E3, easy highball then good gear and steady crimping, nice tho.

The Strangler is hard E3, bold but bomber gear good fallout zone.

Jet Runner is easy E3 (but hard 6a), one move next to loads of good gear.

Cavalry is hard E3 but excellent, proper wall climbing for grit.

Gypfast is hard E2, big crimps and loads of pro.


Conversely...


Demon Rib @ Black Rocks is more E4 than all of the above. Serious start but very good overall.

Jellyache @ Cocking Tor feels more E4 than most of the above. Very good proper grit route.

Moonwalk is very good.

The Phantom @ Gradbach Hill is very good.

[Paul B]

if Paul will stoop that far.

Stoop? I'm trying bottom up i.e. the logical way, TBH good consolidation E3's are welcome. I'm still to get on Billy Whiz and Nat isn't keen on the title of this thread as it is 

[TobyD]

Moonwalk is good, but i thought Borstal Breakout was similar in style but better; they're both ace though.

A Yorkshire vote for the All Quiet / Western Front link; safe, burly, pumpy, brutal for E4 but absolutely brilliant. Incidentally, has anyone climbed the link All Quiet / WF / Grand Illusion in a oner?

Nectar, climbed as one pitch up the corner and through the roof - hard for E4 but safe.

If you enjoy the Higgar style, and have done the routes already suggested, a 'collector's' tick that i thought was amazing is Arnold Schwartzanegger Stole my Body, more independent than it appears and great moves.

Nettle Wine is great.

Profit of Doom is amazing, protectable with a wire / alien combo iirc, but should probably be E5.

Tons of amazing E4 s in the lancs quarries: Adrenaline, Masterspy, Loopy, Isle of White ....

[Paul B]

If you enjoy the Higgar style,

Not really...

Thanks for all of the suggestions so far.

[grimer]

Tons of amazing E4 s in the lancs quarries: Adrenaline, Masterspy, Loopy, Isle of White ....

amen to that

[Paul B]

They're a bit far for after work raids unfortunately 

[Will Hunt]

Jetrunner and Wings are the two that I've done and although they are the hardest graded climbs I've done they are certainly not the hardest!

[Paul B]

Wings looks tiny.

Could I be so bold (or more appropriately, timid) and extend this down to lowly E3's... (preferably in reach of Sheffield after 5 ish).

[Will Hunt]

To be honest I wouldn't be surprised if Jetrunner went down to E3 in a forthcoming guide. If you trust the small wires (which aren't that small) then its a doddle. I haven't really done a great deal above E1/E2 but Archangel is definitely worth pushing the boat out for and, while certainly not a highball, should be more than manageable for a gritstone bouldering aficionado.

[north_country_boy]

Wings looks tiny.

Could I be so bold (or more appropriately, timid) and extend this down to lowly E3's... (preferably in reach of Sheffield after 5 ish).

Two Super Safe but stiff E3 options...

Saville street - Millstone
Gates of Mordor - Millstone

[Paul B]

I've been really enjoying Millstone... Ta.

Whilst I understand your motives for recommeding Archangel it doesn't fit the bill in this instance.

[Palomides]

E3s

Stanage: The Asp (best after a dry spell), Censor (ace but scary), Telli and Tippler Direct to get started.
Rivelin: Angst
Wharncliffe: Autumn Wall (well, if fiend thinks it's E3...)
Wimberry: Charm
Gardoms: Crocodile, Waterloo Sunset, Sleeping Sickness, Stormbringer, (not Landsick Direct, it's horrible and I never managed to do it)
Roaches: Appaloosa Sunset
Hen Cloud ?? Dunno, they all look desperate.
Gradbach Hill: Crystal Voyager (finding the slab is harder than the climbing!)

[nai]

Did Black Hawk Bastion on Sunday, seems a bit of a gift at E3 but quite a nice sequence.
Also at Stanage, Guillotine should suit your stature.

At Millstone there's also Twikker and Time For Tea but I have an inkling that you've done them?

Boulevard at Lawrencefield?

[Paul B]

your inkling is correct. Some of the grades in this area have left me utterly bemused with just how inconsistent major classics can be.

Boulevard at Lawrencefield?

That and high life are pretty high up on my weeks priorities, strangely they even seem in front of getting any useful work done?

[nai]

your inkling is correct. Some of the grades in this area have left me utterly bemused with just how inconsistent major classics can be.

It does seem amazing that such a fuss is made over new route grades being found to be slightly awry when routes that have hundreds or even thousands of ascents can't yet be nailed down correctly.

Boulevard and high life are pretty high up on my weeks priorities, strangely they even seem in front of getting any useful work done?

High Street?

[Paul B]

probably.

[wiain]

re Gardoms E3s, I bit my tongue chin whole face off on Stormbringer so I'm not sure I would recommend it. Others where good although I thought Croc pretty bold.

Ascent of Man and Smear test at the Roaches are very good.

[mrjonathanr]

The Swan too

[grimer]

As this has kinda become a listing of three star E3s and 4s, could you remind me again, Paul, specifically what it is you're after?

[Fiend]

Curbar sandbags of course.

[Paul B]

As this has kinda become a listing of three star E3s and 4s, could you remind me again, Paul, specifically what it is you're after?

A set of BMC definitive guidebooks of course 

Safe (Peak, as I'm picking them off in the evenings) grit E4's originally. The Mrs. baulked and asked that I take her up a few more 3's first. TBH the list is likely too big for this year already.

[grimer]

Ah, why didn't you say. I could start you off with a box of Wye Valley Limestone guides 

[Paul B]

I'll get back to you on that one...