[iain_cbr]

That's about the long and short of it, i have real issues when trying to get from the overhanging part to the less steep. Is it just technique? I tried to throw a heel hook up but then I just end up upside down and I can't climb feet first.

Is there a sort of base rule of thumb as to how to attack these?

I tried doing the staffordshire flier at the roaches and i could get as far as grasping the lip but couldn't get any higher.

Any hints/tips/anything at all?

Cheers!

[Dexter]

do you struggle with mantles too? how are your triceps?

[Drew]

It varies with each problem. Staffs flyer for example (if I can remember back) you put your toe on a ripple down and left from the handhold. There'll be beta for every problem, but there'll probably be a couple of options. You just need to work out which works for you.

As Dexter says, your triceps might be holding you back. Maybe hip flexibility too?

[iain_cbr]

triceps not too bad, but now you come to mention it, my hip/leg flexibility is shockingly dire. I'll have to put in the extra hours of stretching and hope that pays off.

Thanks for the input!

[Pantontino]

Hip flexibility is key for making the transition from steep to vertical/slabby. The sooner you can get your weight over your feet the better. Inflexible hips will force your centre of gravity away from the rock and put extra strain on your arms/fingers.

I've noticed my hip flexibility has got worse in recent years (old age presumably) and that it has affected my climbing. I asked my physiotherapist mate and he said to lie on my back, pull my feet up to my groin with the soles of my feet touching, then just let gravity slowly stretch my knees outwards. Don't press down on your legs, just take it steady, especially at first. I try and do this at least once a day and always as part of a stretch routine after a run.

It seems to be helping - I've done quite a lot of techy wall climbing in the last month and have felt an improvement.

[rodma]

If it's massively overhanging to slightly overhanging then your problem may simply be strength related. You normally can't get away with twisting at the change in angle, since you are obstructed by the lip. I had a real problem with lip-turns for many years, I just wasn't able to pull hard enough, even with a heel up.

[SA Chris]

Have you got a problem with remembering where footholds are? I often find that once your chest is over the lip it's a pig to get on footholds. Try consciously mapping them before they go out of sight or setting your feet up before moving upwards.

[iain_cbr]

Much as I hate to admit, maybe rodma has a point. I'm not very strong for my weight and rely on twisting quite a bit to compensate. That and crappy flexibility, I'm surprised I even bother trying sometimes... *sob*

Remebering footholds isn't too bad, I thinkn it may just be down to being a bit shitty. I was hoping it would be technique but it seems I'll have to put in some hours puttin tha' beef on.

[tomtom]

Like others have said it's all about getting the weight over your feet. I'm tall and not strong, so its taken me a while to learn how to swing my weight over a high placed foot and rock up... You could do a lot worse than going to the wall and just trying getting over lips?
Some still really stump me, the rockover on Sloper patrol stumped me for ages.. In the end I just had to throw myself over the lip...

[Robl]

Sloper patrol stumped me for ages.. In the end I just had to throw myself over the lip...

How about trying something like bobs bastard at Caley. The whole problem is about getting a foot up and rocking it out, its pretty easy so you could do it over and over to perfect the technique? Landings good too if you fuck it up at first.

[mark s]

i find them hard too but often because my feet feel like they are in the next county.

try some pull ups with lifting feet up to each side

[Gus]

The Leek lads heel hooking?? Whatever next.

You've changed.

[Nan]

My mate told me you had to campus to the hold up right from the lip of staffs otherwise no tick. Seemed on harder than when i did it getting my feet on somewhere