[iwasmexican]

so i ve got a pair of teams that are a bit too small and are great on steeper stuff, but on anything even vaguely close to vertical and its like, well i tried to think of a good metaphor to describe it but i couldnt, so basically theyre shit. so what i need is another pair of somethings, something good with slabby, less steep stuff to compensate...

any suggestions?

[Wipey Why]

Something that fits and isn't down turned.

I have pair a uber small Dragons and a pair of slightly more comfortable Anasazis.

[Steve Crowe]

The Scarpa Instinct could be what you are looking for, I really rate mine. Superb all round slipper.

http://www.wildtrak.com/product.asp?id=3548

[andy_e]

I doubt it, he wants shoes that aren't for steep stuff and those are too downturned. Try Evolv Pontas of 5.10 Anasazis, they fit the bill for edging/smearing.

[tomtom]

Something that fits and isn't down turned.

I have pair a uber small Dragons and a pair of slightly more comfortable Anasazis.

snap. (except my dragons are not uber small)

Its a combo that works for pretty much everything I try....

[tommytwotone]

...what Andi and T2 said.

I supplement the Dragon / Sazi Velcro combo with a pair of Verdes, but now my Velcros are nice and comfy I tend to use them more than the laceups.

[fried]

Being narrow footed and weak, I Have a pair of vertes and a pair of blancos. I'd love to have some anasazi velcros, but no matter how often I try them, they simply don't fit.

[namnok]

Being narrow footed and weak, I Have a pair of vertes and a pair of blancos. I'd love to have some anasazi velcros, but no matter how often I try them, they simply don't fit.

try evolv pontas, narrower? i had that problem with the velcros

[joe dobson]

Another option would be Katana's, i have a pair of lace ups and the Muira's for my downturned. Although there nearly ending there life and will most likely replace with Blackwings or similar

[kingholmesy]

Being narrow footed and weak, I Have a pair of vertes and a pair of blancos. I'd love to have some anasazi velcros, but no matter how often I try them, they simply don't fit.

Try the Moccasyms.

[Paul B]

the problem is with slippers, they're great for about a minute (unless you need a heel hook), then they're too baggy.

In no particular order:

Dragons - steep (although I ended up favouring my blanco's on everything bar the steepest of routes)
Verde - trad, general (comfy-sized)
Blanco's - limestone (surprisingly good on grit despite their stiffness)
'sazi velcro's - general boulderising (nice and stiff to start with and then just as they're on their way out, the best smearing boot in existence appears!)

Worryingly that lot would now cost you upwards of £400.

I'd be psyched ('syked') out of my mind for the Quantums if they had an ounce of stiffness, structure or backbone to them...

[tommytwotone]

Worryingly that lot would now cost you upwards of £400.

Indeed - I realised in Font that I fastidiously keep an eye on my camera (approx £350 worth) but will happily leave a bag with 3 pairs of 5:10s (c. £330 in today's money) in it lying about out of sight for hours on end...

That said the smell of my climbing shoes probably acts as a suitable deterrent to any would-be footwear theives.

[fried]

That said the smell of my climbing shoes probably acts as a suitable deterrent to any would-be footwear theives.

I actually retched the other day at the foul odour that came out of my verdes when I got them out of my bag. I also quite happily leave them lying around, I couldn't imagine anyone would go near them, even if they are in that perfect state just before they fall apart.

I have a new pair of Blancos and I find they hurt under my heel somewhere, anyone know if this goes after wearing in?

[chummer]

Verds soften up to much in my opinion, great for smeary slabs, shit for vertical edging.

Another vote for Evolv Pontas velcro. My Pontas have held up well, nice and precise, comfy, and seem to hold their edge well and they're a good price. I got mine about a size down from my normal shoes size.

[Steve Crowe]

I doubt it, he wants shoes that aren't for steep stuff and those are too downturned. Try Evolv Pontas of 5.10 Anasazis, they fit the bill for edging/smearing.

They don't feel down turned to me but they are the best shoes I have worn in many years! (P.S. This is not an advert just my opinion.)

[stokesy]

Similar to the o.p I'm after a second shoe to replace a pair of 5:10 galileos (too stiff) and a pair of blancos (holed toe), any thoughts? I'm tempted by the moccs for cheapness/softness, the £100+ price tag on the lace ups/velcros is putting me off a pair of those. What are the pontas like compared to 5:10's?

[grumpycrumpy]

That said the smell of my climbing shoes probably acts as a suitable deterrent to any would-be footwear theives.

I actually retched the other day at the foul odour that came out of my verdes when I got them out of my bag. I also quite happily leave them lying around, I couldn't imagine anyone would go near them, even if they are in that perfect state just before they fall apart.

I have a new pair of Blancos and I find they hurt under my heel somewhere, anyone know if this goes after wearing in?

Stick them in a washing machine on a warm wash ....... Not only does this get rid off the smell it also cleans all the chalk and other bits of random detritus out of the soles .......

[Fultonius]

Similar to the o.p I'm after a second shoe to replace a pair of 5:10 galileos (too stiff) and a pair of blancos (holed toe), any thoughts? I'm tempted by the moccs for cheapness/softness, the £100+ price tag on the lace ups/velcros is putting me off a pair of those. What are the pontas like compared to 5:10's?

I bought the Pontas Velcros in a fairly large size (-1 from street shoe) so they're pretty comfy. Haven't been all that impressed with them so far indoors and on slippy dolerite.

BUT, was using them the other weekend in Reiff on the sandstone and found them great - good for smearing and coped ok pebble-dancing too. I think they're too soft for anything really edgey. Apparently the lace-up version is better for edgey stuff. So far they've lasted about 6 months of indoor use, and I've been described as a drunk elephant due to my footwork...

[Oldmanmatt]

I've got a long narrow foot, with a shagged big toe (frost bite) and I've been through several pairs over the past year. What with the toe, I just can't do the screaming tight thing anymore. Best all rounder and the pair I wear most are the Anizazi's. Got long, flappy, excess velcro hangin out all over but dosen't seem to bother me much. Maybe I'd benefit from a stiffer shoe on steeper problems; but if you can't seen the rock cos' your eyes are watering from the pain in your feet, what's the point?

[Willriseley]

Currently have solutions as my steep shoe but recently bought a pair of instinct slippes and tere awesome for everything else