[comPiler]

Glendo on Christmas Eve
27 December 2011, 10:31 am

Jeff wearing a right arm chicken wing, left arm palm and a double knee bar. Fleece models own.

Good session in an almost mint Glendo. Lots of people around. Warmed up on Big Jim in the wind. Did a good problem on the uphill arete of the riverside. Starting just R of the top of Barry's Crack move left on lovely slopers and either slap up - what I did - or reach into the top of the sidepull problem.

Went to try Squamish but I had to conceed to the damp. Diarmuid was showing us his pet problem Midge Too Far (best thing about it is the name) and Jeff - the genius man - spotted that the classic chimney offer potential for a horrific journey into the through it bowels. We immediatly got stuck in, I think you can safely say we, literally got stuck in. The archaic and deviant world of chimney and slot bouldering is one that appeals to my dark side. It's truely 3D climbing, using your whole body to best effect, and its also a style where determination and fight really count. After 3 goes I was goosed. Knees were skinned. This is a body pump quite unlike the class in Westwood on Saturday morning that my friend Paddy is such a fan of. Jeff and fought hard but lost to a technical knockout. Jeff who lives in Italia  90 won't be back for a while but I will. Once I fashion some neato knee pads.

For the record the sequeeze goes something like this bridge, squeeze, painful knee bar, sore arm bar then chicken wing, painful knee bar, painful knee bar, painful knee bar, painful knee bar, painful knee bar, painful knee bar, painful knee bar, painful knee bar,painful knee bar, painful knee bar, painful knee bar, painful knee bar, painful knee bar, painful knee bar, painful knee bar, painful knee bar, painful knee bar, painful knee bar, good slopey foothold, painful knee bar, painful knee bar, painful knee bar, ear then who knows but probably something involving painful knee bars to the top.

On the way out we saw a beautiful dead trout lying beside the river.

Then I made the lads go home.

Source: Bouldering Ireland

[Hoseyb]

  Thank you for the last 2 posts as they made me delightfully  happysad. Happy at the thought of little venues out there for fun to be had, happy someone else has an eye for the absurd and silly in our activities, and the fun in general wedging.

Sad cos I haven't been able to indulge, let alone blog about it lately. However, with this inspiration, all I need is some perspiration, and a snatch of opportunity.

Cleft optional.

[comPiler]

Yoga
30 December 2011, 8:38 pm

I don't even really believe in yoga.



Source: Bouldering Ireland

[comPiler]

Blog future
31 December 2011, 6:45 pm

Not sure what the future for this blog is. I have been trying to post general interest irish bouldering stuff and keen away from logbook style things.  Trish's blog which seems to be very popular is logbook style but its done well so maybe I could do some of that stuff but try and do it well. Or should I start another blog for that?

I have recently embedded it on the theshortspan as a temporary measure while I figure out what to do. I would like to update theshortspan more next year with news and short articles and maybe keep the more niche personal stuff on the blog.

Would be very keen to hear suggestions on how to do it?

Source: Bouldering Ireland

[comPiler]

2011 review
31 December 2011, 7:13 pm

Stephen McMullan posted a good retrospective of the Irish climbing year on climbing.ie.

From a personal point of view my highlight was finishing the guide in January and it selling well. I have a small pile left and it sold loads more than I had expected/hoped. For the first few months I barely dared look at it for fear of finding mistakes and only focusing on the elements that could have been better. But with the passage of time I can now happily leaf throught it with considerable satisfaction. The icing on the cake was probably getting shortlisted for Banff. Thanks to all who bought it and to those who haven't what are you waiting for?

The guide and the arrival of Gravity must be the two biggest events on the bouldering scene. Gravity seems to be doing great business and must surely breed a whole new crop of boulderers/climbers. It's definitely going to have a huge effect on the competitive climbing scene, starting kids climbing young and getting them strong. How all this will translate to rock climbing remains to be seen.

My goal for the year was to concentrate on new problems which worked out pretty well. The exploring on the Wicklow coast fed the rat somewhat but it is probably destined to be a estoreic enough bouldering area however next summer might see some route development I suspect. A few visits to the Upper Glanekeera valley yielded some excellent finds which add to make a decent remote area. Must get a few things climbed and then do a topo. (posts 1,2,3). Also finally explorded Camaderry properly, I now have a pretty good idea where the really good stuff is.

The standard of Irish bouldering definitely rose this year. Partly due to the co-ops and partly just a younger generation. I would suspect more > 8a's (I know the ' is technically wrong but I think it's clearer than 8as) were climbed in Ireland this year than ever before.



The cave in howth was in great nick for a lot of the summer and loads of new links were done. John Howard also ticked the whole cave which must be one of the most impressive feats of the year. See below for the updated topo - of course it's not as simple when you actually stand there and try and find a problem.

One of the very last parts of the guide I wrote was the outro. It got me thinking about how much bouldering there is out there, I have always believed that there are some major areas to be found. But a day in the pissing rain in Caha Mountains pretty much convinced me I won't find it in the Cork/Kerry mountains.

Anyway. Thanks for reading and keep commenting. Will write a post tomorrow about plans for the year.

Source: Bouldering Ireland

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A very large, wet cave in Sligo
3 January 2012, 10:44 am

In 2004 we checked out this huge cave in Sligo, it's near Aughrish Head, I can't remember exactly where but could probably figure it out. The cave was huge, I think you could fit a few double decker buses in it but it was soaking wet. It was clear though that the rock was incredible smooth and rounded limestone, the walls where step banded with slopey breaks. If (and it's a big if) it ever dried it would be amazing, probably bigger than Gravity with beautiful rock and a perfect sandy landing. Photos are Kev Cooper's.











Source: Bouldering Ireland

[comPiler]

Back of the Rasher
3 January 2012, 1:42 pm



Source: Bouldering Ireland

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Projects: open or closed?
4 January 2012, 1:07 pm

For years I have been on the look on for the prefect project in Wicklow. I wanted something that would inspire me to train and try and get stronger. So it needed to be steep and powerful, on edges rather than slopers so it wasn't too condition dependent. It needed to be unclimbed as that is what blows my skirt up. It needed to be a few moves which could be worked in isolation as it gets old fast falling off the same move day in day out.

I expected to find it in the Glendo but never saw exactly what I was looking for. Last summer I found it in Glenmalure. Every box ticked. I have sorted the landing, cleaned the holds and tried the moves. And now I'm trying to get a bit stronger before the siege starts.

I'm deeply motivated  by it and would love to go on and on about it and share all the photos I have. But something holds me back, I'm afraid that if I told the world that someone would go and climb it. And I want it all for myself.

My attitude to projects always has been that no one owns the rock and if you don't want anyone to climb your project don't tell anyone.

[tr][td][/td][/tr] [tr][td]Photo courtsey of Joe Kinder joekindkid.com[/td][/tr]

[/table]

In sport climbing there is the principle of the red tag. A climber would clean and bolt a line. While working it she would leave a red tag on the first bolt to indicate that it's a work in progress and other climbers should stay off. Considering the time and expense of equipping a sport route this seems fair enough. The question is: how long is the equipper entitled to before she has to open the route up to others?

Red tagging seems to be accepted practise but sometime even the heros get into trouble over it. Deadpointmag offered a $1000 bounty on a route Chris Sharma was working. Chris asked them not to. Shortly afterwards a can of worms opened. Read the Deadpoint original piece and then the embarrassing apology.

Josh's defence that as Chris didn't literally put a red tag on his projects or that they were never "officially open" or "officially closed." is bullshit.

"Chris had put the better part of two years projecting the line, and his request for Ethan to stay off it, was between gentlemen"

"...When he realized  that Nalle had flown in from Finland on a mission to try the route, he  asked Nalle to give him some time to complete it first..."

Anyway. Boulder problems usually require only a small amount of work to prepare them (though there are exceptions) so the issue of finances doesn't come into it. So is it right for anyone to claim a project as their own? One very strong boulderer I know said that if he heard someone was working a problem he would give them a year to get it done before trying it.

The advantage of closed projects is that

• It reduces the need for secrecy, people will share information more freely if they aren't worrried someone will go along and do their project.
• It encourages people to get out and look for new problems of their own.

Disadvantages

• Not all climbers are going to agree with and respect the idea of closed projects and this could cause friction. Also how do you know a project is closed?
• It can cause stagnation. There is nothing like the fear of your project getting 'robbed' to motivate you. Plus it means problems wait years before getting done as people drift away from climbing leaving a trail of closed projects behind them.

The best solution is probably one of compromise. The Irish bouldering scene is pretty friendly and most of the active boulderers know each other and the way it seems to work at the moment is that you keen quiet about a project but you expect people to give you some breathing space anyway.

Source: Bouldering Ireland

[comPiler]

Old article - Nine of the best unclimbed problems in Wicklow
13 January 2012, 10:38 am

This is an article I wrote in early 2004 that was never published. I have added updated information in red.

Nine of the best unclimbed problems in Wicklow

This is a list of some of the best unclimbed boulder problems in Wicklow. All are hard most are very hard. That the majority are in Glenmacnass will be no surprise to those who have been there. Only one problem listed is in Glendalough the reason is that this list about the unknown rather than the known and Glendalough is very much the known. All styles of problem are represented long, short, safe, slappy, crimpy and fingery. This list used to be a top ten but John Gaskins climbed the tenth problem (see the news item Darkness before the Dawn) just before Christmas.

1. Glendalough – The Hidden groove project

About a hundred meters above the Fin is a large boulder on the uphill side of which is the groove.It’s about 16 foot high, the landing is a mixture of rock and grass which will require many pads to make it safe. The start is easy but the top out will be the crux with very technical insecure stemming on marginal holds. One to headpoint maybe?

I believe Dave Ayton did the first ascent of this shortly afterwards. He gave it around 6b I think. It's more scary than hard. A good few pads and a bit of patioing would make it quite safe. I saw Harry Fogg do it quite causually one day.  

2. Glenmacnass - Wow Prow

[tr][td][/td][/tr] [tr][td]Photo by Dom Green[/td][/tr]

[/table]Maybe not quite as strong a line as the original wow prow in Bishop, California (now named the Mandala by Chris Sharma the first ascentist) but nice none the less. About three fingery deadpoints should see the top in hand. If you prefer steeper more powerful problems there is a very overhanging rib with only the vaguest sidepulls to the right.

Wow Prow was probably over stating it slightly. I'ts a nice line and looks great from a distance but the holds are small and sharp. I think John Gaskins did all the moves ones day but never linked it video on . Other wads have looked at it but weren't captivated. Still someone should get it done. Now the line to its right is a different story, very hard and in the modern style of compression on slopey holds.  

3. Glenmacnass - groove left of the Wow Prow

Not that hard as the rest of the problems in the list but a great line. The top section needs a good clean probably from a rope. The first move is a hard fingery slap from sharp crystals to a good hold, a bold upper section leads to a very good jug to on the lip. The landing is quite good though there is a few holes worth avoiding.

Andy Robinson did this a few years after. Called it the Shroud, it's around 6b. Bit highball and the crux is a long reach.

4. Glenmacnass - No Dice  

Photo by Dom Green

Not an obvious feature as the most obvious feature is the lack of features. There is one small crimp for the left hand and a vague slopey rib for the right hand and foot. The difficulty lies not in discovering what to do but doing it.

John Gaskins put a bit of work into this one to no avail. I heard a rumour that Barry O'Dwyer hit the top. Very elegant minimalist line but with quite defined holds.Video of John trying it on .

 5. Glenmacnass – Andre’s arete



In a bend of Glenmacnass river about five kilometers above the waterfall is a large granite boulder, the Riverside boulder. This large rectangular block with a heather hat has a perfect vertical arete. It’s oft admired as it is prominent from everywhere in the upper valley. Apparently this arete was climbed in the early fifties by a Polish climber who was living in Ireland at that time called Andre Kopczinski. Apparently he didn't even use climbing shoes (this was a long time before sticky rubber or anything similar) just a thick pair of woollen socks. If so this would have been one of the hardest ascents in the world at that time. For the moment though lets consider it unclimbed until we are sure of otherwise.

World famous now as Solidarity. Andy Robinson picked this plum and then fecked off to Canada. You can see the extent of the pool under it before Andy came along with his shovel. Andy was rightly worried that the line would be robbed at the boulder meet and get it done just in time. As for Andre, well it's a nice idea.

6. Glenmacnass - Nemesis



High, hard, long and complicated. The landing is good but boulder is high (20 feet). It will take a particular type of person to get excited about this project as it will take a lot of figuring out the moves, cleaning holds etc. The first move is a tricky slap to a relatively good hold after that there not a huge amount to aim for just the slopey lip and the odd crystal for the feet.

  Stupid problem really, don't think it had seen any attention. The arete to the right is the excellent Smokey and Bandit.  

7. Glenmacnass – Dice slap

 

It’s just one hard slap off a reasonable edge to a small crimp with no footholds worth mentioning. Easy if you’re strong enough, impossible otherwise. Not as impressive a line to look at as the others but a cool move.

Visted  Welsh was Chris Davies did this at the 2005 meet. Called it Monkey  Burger which is one of the worst names I could imagine. There is now a  similar problem to the left also.  

8. Glenmacnass – The Full Rasher Traverse



This will be a fine endurance outing without any particularly hard moves but lots of them. The Rasher is the traverse of the lip facing the river that looks vaguely like a rasher on its side. The complete traverse starts right on the other side of the boulder going up (and across) one arete down another (a fine problem in itself) and finally across the Rasher itself.  The holds are always slopey and never good enough to get a good shake out. One to try after a holiday clipping bolts.

Probably been done by now. Compelling line if you like stamina stuff I suppose. You can see in this video Gaskins causually traverses it before dropping off at the mantle.  

9. Glendasan - prow of the Tank



The prow of the Tank boulder above the mining village in Glendasan is formed where the two overhanging faces meet. To the right is 'Darkness before dawn' John Gaskins 8a+ and the hardest problem in Ireland. John used a camming device placed under the boulder to hold his mat in place on Darkness this would be worth doing on the prow as the landing below the sitstart is rocky. A very steep sitstart on some slopey holds leads to the lip after which there is still a good bit of work to do. There are also another two unclimbed problems on this boulder (the face to the left and the crack just to the right).  

John did this one at 7c. Great line.

So of the 9 6 are done. The two really worthwhile ones left are the prow right of Wow Prow and the Dice Rib.

Source: Bouldering Ireland

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Unclimbed projects
19 January 2012, 11:09 pm

Following on from article from 2004 listing some of the best projects in Wicklow here is a list of a few worthwhile unclimbed lines. All of the below are good lines on nice rock, there are no SS or variations or extensions. They are King Lines if you will.  I know of more some that I'm seflishly hoarding from myself (they easy ones), so this list isn't exhaustive.

 1. Split boulder, Electric Mountain

This line is on the hillside to the left of the Electric Mountain forest. There is a big buttress split vertically by a fared chimney. The first move is a big throw from some small edges to the big slopey ledge and then a highball finish. There is an easier project to the right as well.

2. Flicking the Bean boulder, Mall Hill

The slopey arete on the Flicking the Bean boulder isn't probably that hard. The landing is awkward as it slopes away but there are plenty of branches to build a level platform. Might be a sit start, on the day that photo was taken I pulled a flake off from below the nose on the right, it was rotten and very loose so was no lose.

3 Art's Boulder arete, near Glanekeera

High, hard and remote. Great line though.

4. Line right of Wow Prow, Glenmac

The Wow Prow is the arete in the middle. The other line is the right arete. Very steep very slopey compression from a SS. Very much the modern style. There is a line of seepage in the middle of the face that might interfere.

5. Dyno right of Boat 66, Glenmac

Dyno up the middle of the face. Starts on a shit hold and goes along way to the lip to a good jug I think. Rocky landing. Borderline impossible ie. very hard I think.

6. Nemesis Boulder right arete, Glenmac

Just noticed this one when going through my photos. Looks like hard clamping up the steep nose. Mightn't be that impressive in person.

7. Roof below crag, Lough Dan

Long roof traverse. Maybe 15m long. Would stay dryish in the rain. Lovely rock, great holds. Not even that hard. Why am I mentioning this one?

8.  White Elephant, Glenamlure

High. Very blank arete. Oh and at least 1.5 hours from the road. Good luck with that.

9. Steep side of Gullyblock

Left arete. Steep. Might be a few holds on the face.

10. Forest boulder, Mall Hill

Deep in the forest above and left of Living the Dream is a nice rounded boulder. The centre of the face doesn't look like much in the crappy photo but it is beautiful. A few decent holds to start and then some very slopey moves on the bald pate. Beautiful. Did I mention the dappled light?

Well that's all I can think of for the moment. If you know of anything else worth mentioning leave a comment. Note nothing in Glendo.

Source: Bouldering Ireland

[comPiler]

Johnny Dawes interview
20 January 2012, 11:54 am

The brilliant, mad, articlulate Johnny Dawes talks to the Guardian. He has some interesting stuff to say and there are some good clips of his running jumping antics.

                         

Source: Bouldering Ireland

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Trailer for new bouldering film - Life on Hold
23 January 2012, 4:00 pm



from Outcrop Films on Vimeo

Check out Outcrop Films.

Source: Bouldering Ireland

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Bouldering Meet 9/10/11th March
3 February 2012, 10:34 am

The hut is booked for the bouldering meet on the 9/10/11th March. Spread the word. Pint to anyone who can name every one in the photo above. Hint: from 2005.

Source: Bouldering Ireland

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Meet poster
3 February 2012, 11:17 am



Source: Bouldering Ireland

[turnipturned]

Pretty interested in coming over for this! Can you give me a bit more info about the event? Mainly interest in the costs?

Is Dublin airport the closest?

Cheers, Dan

[slackline]

No idea of the costs, but Dublin will certainly be your closest airport to Wicklow.

[turnipturned]

Cheers, cheap flights at the moment from Leeds. Lets hope the photos of the Bloc's in the guide are as good as they look!! 

[slackline]

Only climbed routes there, but Glendalough is very nice, the boulder field seemed rather confusing so the guide and local knowledge will be invaluable.

[Dave Flanagan]

The meet is based in the IMC Hut which is pretty basic but grand. Usually climb in Glendo on the Saturday and elsewhere on the Sunday if the weather cooperates. There is a usually a good few people around to give you a tour and have a few pints in the evening. Costwise the hut is E10 per night. If you flew to Dublin you could get a bus (Aircoach http://www.aircoach.ie/) into the city and then St Kevin's bus (http://www.glendaloughbus.com/)  to Glendo. St Kevins only goes up and down twice a day so timing mightn't be great for you. Failing that it would/should be possible to get a lift from the city if you post up on theshortspan.com message board. Buy a bit of food in town and a few cans and that's it. PM if you have any questions. If you are coming for more that the weekend you can use the hut just let me know in advance.

[comPiler]

Barefoot on sacred ground
18 February 2012, 2:05 pm

I posted a few months ago about Spectre, a boulder problem in California that I consider close to perfect.  Last week I read a blog post about a one shoed ascent. Terry Paholek did Spectre wearing only a left shoe so that he could use his toes to cam and pull on the footholds.

You can see from the photo on the left (from the Bishop Bouldering) how important the right foot is.

 

from chalk on blocs on Vimeo.

Source: Bouldering Ireland

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Freak brothers
18 February 2012, 2:10 pm

Another very nice piece of granite from Switzerland.

from Sandstones on Vimeo.

Source: Bouldering Ireland

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Three Rock
19 February 2012, 1:18 pm

Diarmuid on SS to the middle of the Second Rock. Photo: Ped.

Went up to Three Rock. Hadn't been for almost a year so everything felt fresh, almost new. There was a bit of a breeze but it was warm in the sun. The odd shaded corner was a bit damp or even a little icy. Played around on the back wall of the third rock which was a great sun trap. Did every little variation and then some. Then did a few nice, if a little silly variations on the second rock, great press moves on rubbish slopers. Definitely going to do up a small but detailed guide to Three Rock showing all the silly little variations and elimates, probably one for the connoisseurs.

I assume/hope that all the kids that were at the competition in Gravity yesterday made their way to Glendo today. Not sure it would of been mint though.

Source: Bouldering Ireland

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Top 10 bouldering areas in Ireland
19 February 2012, 8:02 pm

Was asked to do a list of the top 10 bouldering areas for an article in the Sunday Times. Not as easy as it might sound. So just going to think aloud.

If it's judged solely on number of problems (in the guide) then this is the list.

• Glendo (155)
• Glenmacnass (73)
• Doolin (67)
• Portrane (66)
• Fairhead (60)
• Gap of Dunloe (56)
• Glendasan (52)
• Slieve Binnian (47)
• Mall Hill (48)
• Windy Gap (40)

There are a few problems with this list. Firstly bigger isn't always better. Secondly some of the areas above are a bit of an acquired taste (Windy Gap, Portrane for starters). If you assume that the purpose to the list is to help people decide where to go for a bouldering trip in Ireland then the above list isn't that useful as there are other worthwhile clusters of smaller bouldering areas that could be considered as one area, for example the coastal granite around Carrickfinn or if you took the Gap and Black Valley as one area it would move up the list. So here is a list of what I would consider the best destinations for a day or two bouldering in Ireland.

• Wicklow
• Gap of Dunloe and Black Valley
• Doolin and Inishmore  
• Fairhead
• Mournes
• North West Donegal
• Inishowen, Donegal
• Aughris Head
• Fermanagh Grit
• Portrane and Ayton's Cave

The order is highly debatable. The first entry is miles ahead of the rest and the last is dubious but I couldn't think of anywhere else. Taking Wicklow as one big grouping doesn't really work though.

Combining the two lists makes a bit more sense. If one accepts that Glendo is number on no matter how you look at it and that the order of the rest is so subjective to be not worth worrying about then the list might look something like this.

• Glendo
• Glenmacnass
• Fairhead
• Doolin
• Gap of Dunloe and Black Valley
• Glendasan
• Slieve Binnian
• Aughris Head
• Mall Hill
• Portrane

There aren't any major areas left out bar Windy Gap but I think it's a special case as the rock is so sharp. This wouldn't be my personal list though. Fairhead is better suited for wads, they may well rate it number 2 , and I'm not a big fan of Doolin but a lot of others seem to like it.

If anyone has any comments or suggestions or alternate lists post a comment.

Source: Bouldering Ireland

[Fiend]

Sounds well considered 

[SA Chris]

Given a week of good weather and a bit of surf, getting to all those spots would make me a happy man.