[comPiler]

May bank holiday weekend - part 1
8 May 2012, 12:23 pm

 



 

Got up early on Friday and hit the road with Diarmuid with the goal of doing Carrot Ridge and then catching the evening ferry to Inishmore. The drive was quick and we parked up at the end of the road and hot footed it. The walk is steep but wasn't as bad as last time - no hangover. Just as Diarmuid racked up it started to drizzle but it was never an issue and we were in and out of the cloud all day. D strung the first two pitches together, its a good long pitch but pretty easy, not sure it's even vdiff. Runout though. I swung one quick lead to the foot of p3 which has a steep start and then slabby to the base of the chimney. From the top of the chimney it's pretty easy but we moved together up the second step and then put the rope away. I dropped the nut key and had to go back down to get it. Second week in a row I have dropped something, last time it was my helmet.

Descend was tricky, quite steep and very loose scree. Have to avoid a few cliffs but very ok if you are patient and take your time. Where quicker than last time.  Diarmuid can you remember the times? Took 1hr40 including photos shoots the diversion to get the nut key. Could be soloed in 40mins quite easily I would think.

Had plenty of time to sleep in the car park in Rossaveal and saw two very nice - "stop the car" - granite problems in a road cutting on the way.





Source: Bouldering Ireland

[comPiler]

May bank holiday weekend - part 2
8 May 2012, 12:59 pm

Ped testing some very dodge blue rope anchors we found along the cliff top.

Forecast wasn't great but it turned out pretty perfect. It only rained for a few hours on Sunday night the rest of the time it was sunny and windy.

I had done a decent bit of research for the trip but wasn't sure if we would get anything done. In the end we did one of the 3 routes. And it was probably the best one to have done.

We cycled to the Black Fort and walked west to the famous 'roof' which is cool but smaller than it looks in the photos.

[tr][td][/td][/tr] [tr][td]Would you hang your coat off this?[/td][/tr]

[/table]

We descend down the corners just east of it, called Fisherman's Route (Severe apparently). Ped happy in his runners, me fixing a rope. There is one vertical section that non-wads wouldn't down climb. We abbed this and pulled the rope behind us. Comitted now.

We walked east along the edges, admiring the very very steep cliffs. Steepest I've seen. There are a few routes including one horrible/brilliant looking bridging chimney. A creation of Big George Smith.

Around the corner was Poll Gorm where the ledges ran on and we were reduced to crawling for around 20m through a horizontal chimney, quite safe but painful and hard work. Our exit, a severe called The Big Easy was on the other side of the Poll. Initally we thought it might be 2 pitches but once we got prespective it was obvious it was only one (the wiki saids 55m but its more like 40m). Diarmuid was to do the first pitch but I waved him on and he topped out. The crux is in the corner at the very end. Maybe a hard for severe. Sea cliff climbing is funny in that once you top out your route you are done. The very reverse of CR the day before.

VOYAGE OF THE ARCHAEN-TISE.

A great day's adventure, to be recommened to any climber who's on the island. We where blessed with a very calm sea, it wouldn't be possible on a rough day.

The top of Big Easy.

Poll Gorm.

Starting the crawling section.

Diarmuid abbing down the vertical section.

Fisherman's Route goes down the ledges.

Source: Bouldering Ireland

[comPiler]

Viva Patagonia - First Ascent
8 May 2012, 6:11 pm



Source: Bouldering Ireland

[comPiler]

New Scalp problem - Every given Sunday
12 May 2012, 1:21 pm

Nipped out this morning with Ped and did the slab in the Scalp. Built up the landing with a few more branches. Get to the lip a few times and jumped off before just commiting to it. Probably easier to go for it than have loads of goes feeling it out, especially as I knew the moves from last time. Ped said I shook my way up the last moves but I was deep in the zone at that stage, even Ped's nonsensical encouragment ("go on, it's a nice day to do it") couldn't pierce the bubble. Let out a good roar once I got the good hold and let the adrenaline wash over me.

It's a cool problem, the moves are around 5+ but dicey for it, the landing isn't bad but all in all it feels pretty highball. Would feel a lot harder ground up.

Then went over to The Casbah which has cleaned up nicely. Ped got it pretty quick, so that makes it either 6a or 7c+, not sure which. Just watched Ayton's video and Banana Fingers rocked up onto his heel must try that. Great problem. Ped than failed to lank Alison Curtis.

Source: Bouldering Ireland

[comPiler]

Arete
13 May 2012, 6:55 pm

  Went to check out this arete I've been trying for a while on and off. Made progress but would of liked to do it today. Nice and highball.

Source: Bouldering Ireland

[SA Chris]

That Poll Gorm looks amazing.

[Dave Flanagan]

That Poll Gorm looks amazing.

There is some serious potential for hard sport climbing there.

[SA Chris]

Hell yes. Spectacular bit of rock. If it was anywhere esle in europe it would look like a pincushion and be chipped to buggery.

[comPiler]

Video - Natural Method first ascent
19 May 2012, 9:11 am



Source: Bouldering Ireland

[comPiler]

Great Gully Ridge
22 May 2012, 6:50 pm

 

Did Great Gully Ridge in Glenmalure today with James. Have wanted to do it for a good while and James suggested it instead of bouldering. Was cloudy and a bit dodgey looking on the drive down but it stayed dry, I even got a little sunburnt on my recedding hairline.

Walk in wasn't too bad a bit rough at the end but not long enough to tire badly on. James has done the route loads of times so he kindly left the choice bits for me.

The route is HS (4a,3c,4b,4a) 140m on the wiki. Which sounds about right to me. We did it in 5 pitches partly as we used a thin rope doubled so could only do 30m pitches and partly so I got the cruxes.

The first crux is the corner at the very start of the route, only really one move, then there is a good bit of easy ground to the middle crux which is a nice groove on a slab, followed by more scrambling to the third crux which is a steep pull up the corner with the peg.

(on the third crux is the groove with the old peg the standard way? There was a groove to the left that looked easier, it had a stuck cam on a white/grey sling at its base).

None of the cruxes where that hard usually just a few smeary steps with good handholds. All where very well protected.

We ambled up, not in a rush and abbed down.

It's a very nice route. Quite manageable, good fun. There is loads of tat and stuck gear on it, I suspect people are forced to back off it qutie often due to weather.

Source: Bouldering Ireland

[comPiler]

3rock evening
25 May 2012, 1:30 pm

 

Trish and I headed up Three Rock last night. Left the car after seven and got back just before the gate was due to close at ten. It's was Trish's first time so we started at the furthest boulder and she dispatched everything with ease. Even the hard mantle that probably isn't that hard. Especially now that a girl has done it. I felt like a bit of show pony, I have been bouldering up on Three Rock for a long time and while the flesh is weak the mind is strong and I have a lot of muscle memory. Brendan and James arrived just as I was demoing the dyno. Managed not to get it for the camera though.

Headed over to the second rock and went to work on the middle line. Great problem I haven't done it for ages and it felt pretty ok so I must be doing something right. It's pretty tricky, the secret being this funny pinch using the side of your thumb. After a few burns on the traverse we went to work on the great unclimbed line, to the right of the steep face is a short vertical wall. We all has a few goes but without progress.

I took some shots but my companions were dressed entirely in garnite-hued clothing (though someone forgot their undercrackers) so it was virtually pointless. Just like bouldering.











Source: Bouldering Ireland

[comPiler]

Sunday Times article about Carrot Ridge
27 May 2012, 9:23 pm

I wrote a piece about Carrot Ridge for the Sunday Times.





Source: Bouldering Ireland

[comPiler]

Glanekeera part 4
29 May 2012, 8:29 pm



Got back to Glanekeera today. The ground was pretty dry got away with the runners. Climbed the arete on the first boulder as you walk in. Bit vegatated by nice.



As I walked to the Tyre boulder it started to spit but it held off for the rest of the day. Had about 15 million goes of the slab, couldn't get the first move. Probably wasn't a great day for smearing anyway. Must get back to this when it's a little colder. Really want to do it.



Then strolled down to the vertical wall I has spied when here with Michael. Amazing line of undercuts/sidepulls on a vertical wall. Gave it a quick brush and got it a few tentative tries. Brilliant problem. Midge came out otherwise I would of given it a proper clean as it's a classic. Nice heather top out as well. I took a video of it.



This is a very beautiful but sadly impossible slab. About 16 feet high with not a hold. On the right is a discontinous crack but it ends about 5 feet from the top. May go though.

 Nice boulder with an excellent SS on the LHS that I will go back for.



Loads of rock. This valley has large potential. There are a huge number of low route/highball outcrops. The rock is nice but needs a bit of a clean.

Source: Bouldering Ireland

[comPiler]

Glanekeera video
29 May 2012, 9:36 pm



The new problem. Haven't come up with a name yet.

Source: Bouldering Ireland

[comPiler]

Virgin Gorda - Paradise Bouldering
8 June 2012, 12:09 pm

 

from Louder Than Eleven on Vimeo.

But would you swap here for there?

Source: Bouldering Ireland

[comPiler]

The Story of Two Worlds
11 June 2012, 6:10 pm

 

from project_daihold on Vimeo.

The whole internet is raving about this video and with good reason. Some serious heel and toe hooking going on here.

Source: Bouldering Ireland

[comPiler]

Glendo
19 June 2012, 9:00 pm

Went to Glendo today with a list of shots to get for the book. It was sunny and there was a good breeze, I'd say the conditions would of been pretty good in the shade but I was in the sun taking photos. I downloaded some extra firmware for the camera called Magic Lantern that does lots of weird and wonderful things but most importantly for me it has an intervalometer and I can trigger shots by clapping which is pretty cool makes life a lot easier. The ground was pretty damp and there were lots of little streams crossing the path on the walk in. The river has also got pretty close to Big Jim could be a deep water solo soon. The recent rain has washed away all the chalk which was nice made the place feel nice and fresh. There is an impressive bare patch of earth below Smear Test. I bought some new tshirts just for the occasion and none of them were brown, green or grey. Makes all the difference.

   

Source: Bouldering Ireland

[comPiler]

Real climbing?
14 August 2012, 3:20 pm

It's all quiet on the bouldering front so you will forgive me if I digress from the usual subject matter of this blog. I haven't bouldered for a few months now but I have been doing some trad climbing in the Quarry. The last few weeks I have been getting out a few evenings a week in an effort to steel myself for a trip to Donegal.

I started climbing in the Quarry and through my college years climbed there quite a lot. After that I got into bouldering and while I went back the odd time I haven't done much there for almost ten years. I always knew I would get back into trad, as a boulderer it's one of those things real climbers ask you regularly. Though I don't think I will forsake bouldering, I have too much I want to do and once the weather gets colder that's where the focus will be.

But right now I find trad fascinating. My goal has been to get solid rather than pick off a few harder soft touches. It would be pretty easy for even a mediocer boulderer like myself to go to the Quarry and do an E1 or two and then get their arse kicked an certain VS. So my goal is to be solid on HVS, any one, any time, without fuss.

So I have started slow, doing lots of S and HS and now I'm starting to venture onto some of the VS. And they are hard. Not hard moves but hard work. The trick I find is that it's easy just to pull through thinking it's only VS and that's why seconding can be hard as the route may be VS 4b but if you don't take the time to figure out the easiest sequence you might be doing 5a movs.

Did Helios recently which was great but a battle, an internal one, I don't think I do much shaking or shouting but I felt tested. Wouldn't of been so bad if I had a tricam for the borehold where I found myself thinking that I really didn't want to fall.

It seems to me trad is all about suppressing the fight or flight instinct and staying calm in the face of exposure or a tenious position or tiredness.

Going to stick with the VS for another few weeks and then seek out some of the easier HVSs.  



Source: Bouldering Ireland

[comPiler]

Facebook
23 August 2012, 2:15 pm

 

Can across this on Alex Honnold facebook page. Good to see one of the worlds best climbers get told he is doing it all wrong by some total punt. Steer clear of Alex's page unless you want to see some of the saddest examples of lame hero worship. My favourite "You would be a really cool friend to have Alex! .

Source: Bouldering Ireland

[SA Chris]

Coincidentally the "brother" mentioned in the post above used to be a mate and regular climbing partner.

[andy_e]

Well coincimental.

[Dave Flanagan]

Well coincimental.

Small world.

[SA Chris]

Big Word.

[comPiler]

Cnoc Na Mara
30 August 2012, 6:49 pm

 



A fortnight ago Ped and I went up to Donegal hoping to climb the famous sea stack Cnoc Na Mara. I have followed Iain Miller sea stack exploits with great interest for years but it's was only recently when I started doing some trad that it become a possibility for me to have a go.

The Sunday Times were interested in an article about it so that sealed the deal and we set a date. I did as much research in advance studying photos and video and asking Iain plenty of questions partly because that's the way I roll and partly because I was daunted by the scale of the undertaking.

I didn't get as much trad climbing done as I would of liked this summer so I didn't exactly feel like an old hand but I assumed that even though the route got VS that the climbing itself would be at the lower end of the scale with the grade reflecting the overall effort of getting to the top.

For those who don't know much about Cnoc Na Mara it's pretty remote. A long drive down tiny roads leads to An Port from their its a 30 minute walk to the top of the descent gully which doesn't take too long to get to the bottom of (going up is a different story), then its a ab down to the beach, inflate your vessel and a short paddle leads to the base of the stack. From there it's 4 pitches to the top.

The forecast was bad for the first day so we booked into the rather rustic Dooey Hostel in Glencolmcille. It was quiet so we asked for and got the group house to ourselves, it basically a kip but for €15 a head a night it's good value.

So day 1 we walked in the pissing rain to check out the stack. It looked cool.

Day 2 the weather was pretty day sunny but with the odd shower. On the walk in you get a good view of the landward ridge of Cnoc, one section in particular looked very steep but we assumed it wasn't that bad once you got there. We got down to the beach after some minor difficulty finding the abseil pegs. The grass gully is really steep, a few degrees steeper and it wouldn't be possible to descend without a rope. I choose to slide down on my arse to save my legs, Ped kept his dignity and walked down.

Just as we where inflating the boat it started to piss so that was that. With the rock soaking we went for a quick paddle just to get a feel for it then tied the boat up and left. Iain uses a two person inflatable dingy but we brought my inflatable canoe which while a lot more robust and sea worthy weights a ton.

Day 3 started off rainy and we thought the jig was up. At this stage we where pretty sick of the will we won't we situation but it cleared up and we set off. I was nervous about the whole thing. Not in a bad way just aware that there was a lot of variables.

It turned out to be a glorious day and we got back to the boat and get everything ready to launch. We had a decent rack and double ropes in two drybags. The sea seemed pretty calm but there was still a 2m swell and landing on the stack was a bit tricky but I don't think we made a good fist of it. The sun was roasting and the sea felt warm so we weren't bothered that we got wet to the waist. We tied the boat up and I set off up the first pitch.

[tr][td][/td][/tr] [tr][td]First pitch[/td][/tr]

[/table] The rock in the first few meters is beautiful but it goes downhill very quickly. I made my way up pretty easy ground with very little gear passing sea birds and lots of vegetation. The rock was very very loose. I think I was slightly off route and ended up on top of the ridge away from the first belay but the rope drag was too bad so I just took a firm stance and brought Ped up, shouting down "no falls". A quick traverse led to the rope sling that is the proper first belay. Ped wasn't leading so we swapped ends at each belay which was a small faff.

Second pitch was just a scramble along the ridge which I followed to where it got steep. There was a steep wall a ledge led left around the corner. I brought Ped up. The belay was pretty good, 3 decent nuts in pretty solid feeling rock but it's hard to trust. The ledge has big blocks on it and overhung the south face. I really felt that the whole thing could collapse at any moment. I crawled along the ledge and after one tentative go got around the corner. Only now could I see ahead and it looked hard, nearly vertical on small holds for around 10m to where the arete went horizontal again, I was standing at the foot of the steep section we had seen in profile. I pretty instantly knew I wasn't going up there. I placed a shitty nut but if I fell it was going to be on the belay, the rock didn't look that bad but I couldn't trust it. I went back had a rest and then went back out it didn't feel any better so I went back to the ledge and told Ped I was done. He went around for a look and wasn't impressed either.

It was an easy decision to retreat, I wasn't torn. It was too much for me. I was disappointed and I knew that I would question the decision in the future. We sat on the ledge and enjoyed the views for a while, it's really is a spectacular spot.

Getting back down was fine but there is plenty for potential for hassle. Our ropes pulled fine as much by luck as design and we didn't kick any loose blocks on each other. I was expecting to shit it on the ab but it was grand maybe I just glad to be going home.

Launching the boat was tricky I ended up just jumping in. And the slog up the slope was savage, really gruelling. I hadn't eaten enough all day and was starting to feel it. Ped very kindly gave me some of his water. Once at the top of the gully we strolled back to the car, pretty fucked tired. We got back at 7, it would of been dark at 9 so we would of ended up walking out in the dark if we had gone on. (We started lateish, maybe 11).

We meet Iain at the carpark and his commiserated with us and was very gracious.

Yesterday I was looking for photos on the web and stumbled across one of Iain's that he shot looking down the third pitch and I realised that the rope ran up the ledges to the right of the arete rather than going around the corner like we attempted. I emailed Iain and sure enough we should of kept to the stepped ledge system to the right of the arete for another while before traversing around onto the south face. So we were off route.

[tr][td][/td][/tr] [tr][td]Updated topo[/td][/tr]

[/table]

On the descent I had looked up and noticed the ledge system and thought that it looked easy but I didn't think much of it at the time. I guess I had my blinkers on as I made a beeline for the ridge and the least I should of done was consider my options before retreating but I suppose I wasn't thinking very straight. In my defence the route description is pretty vague " Pitch 2, 22m. Scramble up the slab to the base of the huge knife edge arete. Pitch 3, 35m. Climb the arete to a peg and block belay on the ledge at it's top."

Either way it was a great adventure but I would really would of liked to get to the top. Knowing now that the correct route mightn't be as bad I think I would like to go back.

There are a few more photos on flickr.



Source: Bouldering Ireland

[comPiler]

Sunday Time sea stack article
2 September 2012, 9:36 pm

 



Source: Bouldering Ireland