[comPiler]

Font tomorrow
22 February 2012, 7:38 pm

Heading to Font tomorrow for 4 days climbing. Early start, flying at 6.45 which is nasty. Thanks to the timely arrival of Gravity I'm probably better trained than I have been in a few years. Since Christmas I have been their an average of 3 times a week which is a lot considering I hadn't even been to a wall for two years before that. Have only climbed once in the last week but badly needed a rest before that. Feel a bit over rested now but its probably no harm if I'm planning to climb 4 days in a row.

Its always a challenge to get the most out of trips to Font. I'm not a big fan of rest days which means the body especially the elbows really start to hurt after a few days. The circuits at the wall have been great for doing volume so hopefully that will help be I feel no matter what I did I will be in agony on the last day. When I went in September I climbed for 6 out of the 7 days, granted I stuck to blues and didn't climb too much each day but I found after about 5 days the pain started to get a little better rather than worse.

Did a bit of research and did up a ticklist of sorts. No really a ticklist more a list of problems I would like to look at and try if I can.

Là où Finit la Raie des Fesses	Isatis	7a	http://bleau.info/isatis/1777.html
L'Ultime Secret	Isatis	7a+	http://bleau.info/isatis/2732.html
Delicatessen	Puiselet Le Paradis	6c	http://bleau.info/puiselet/9750-7174.html
Biotope	Puiselet Mont Sarrasin	7a	http://bleau.info/sarrazin/14322.html
Duroxmanie	Cuivier Est	6c	http://bleau.info/cuvierest/1535.html
Beatlejuice stand	Cuisinière	6a
Le Surplomb de la Coquille	Franchard	6c	http://bleau.info/plaines/1547.html
Beurre Marga	Isatis	6b+	http://bleau.info/isatis/1538.html
Le Toit Ouvrant	Isatis	6a	http://bleau.info/isatis/8885.html
L'Angle du Sérac / L'angle Facial	Isatis	6b+	http://bleau.info/isatis/2355.html
Le Cure-Dents, L'Arc de Cercle, Le Grand Dièdre	91.1	5+/ 6a/ 6a+
Travaux Forcés	Gorge aux Chats	6b	http://bleau.info/chats/1546.html
La Voie Michaud	Elephant	6c	http://bleau.info/elephant/7850.html
Le Swing Medium	Buthiers	6b	http://bleau.info/y/8200.html
Moondance	Cuisinière Crête Sud	6a	http://bleau.info/cretesud/3262.html
Duel dans la Lune	95.2	6c	http://bleau.info/95.2/1548.html
Le Kilo de Beurre	95.2	5	http://bleau.info/95.2/3763.html
Le Trou du Simon	Cuivier	6a	http://bleau.info/cuvier/1953.html
Le Bossu	Rocher Canon	6b	http://bleau.info/canon/3291.html
La Clavicule  /  Kilo de Beurre  / Pif Paf	Cuivier	5+/6b/7a	http://bleau.info/cuvier/1149.html
Gigi	Gorge Aux Chats	6b	http://bleau.info/chats/9029.html
Le Meilleur des Mondes	Bois Rond	6a	http://bleau.info/rond/1796.html

Source: Bouldering Ireland

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Bouldering feature in this Sunday's Sunday Times
22 February 2012, 7:44 pm

This Sunday's week's Sunday Times (I can't time of a less crap way of putting it a bit better) will have a two page spread about bouldering in Ireland. Check it out.

Source: Bouldering Ireland

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Sunday Times article
26 February 2012, 6:13 pm



Source: Bouldering Ireland

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Font trip
28 February 2012, 10:26 am

L'Angle du Serac, Isatis.

Spent Thursday morning to Monday morning in Font. Trip was a great laugh but not ideal from a climbing point of view, first day was a washout, damp, still and misty, the second and third day we got a few hours climbing on a limited number of problems in 95.2, the fourth day was much better and we climbed in Isatis which was pretty dry by the afternoon. I managed to bruise both my heels on the first days climbing, thanks to our very soft hire pads. They were very sore and prevented me getting the most out of the good day. I have come to the conclusion that while I enjoy the atmosphere of bouldering in a big group I don't find it very motivating (maybe I've spent too much time climbing on my own). I don't have an interest in being part of a procession up a problem. I need to do more sloping off on my own when I'm in that situation.

Didn't make any dent on the ticklist but did put some time into L'Angle du Serac, a very clear arete in Isatis. It is purely technical in the sense that strength doesn't come into it, the only hand hold - the arete - is good and you don't even really pull on it. It's all about body position and footwork. In the photo my left foot is on the downward sloping credit card edge that you need to stand up on to reach the top. Great problem.



We stayed in a very nice gite south of Nemours (number 96 I think) which made for a lot of driving which was a bit of a pain. It was blessed with a table tennis table which saw heavy traffic and blunted the edge of the frustration with the weather.

Source: Bouldering Ireland

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3rock
29 February 2012, 9:14 pm



Had an hour up on 3rock this morning, doing some new to me problems and getting some photos for the updated connoisseur's guide. Was a beautiful spring day with not a breeze. So not great conditions but it would be very myopic to complain about that.

Source: Bouldering Ireland

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Irish climbing scene?
1 March 2012, 7:38 pm

[tr][td][/td][/tr] [tr][td]Photo: Seán Walsh.[/td][/tr]

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The bouldering meet has been running for 8 years now and has had its ups and downs in that time. It started with a bang, followed by a lull and now is in a steady state. While the attendance is usually pretty good at the boulders not many make the effort to stick around overnight in the hut. Every year this gets me thinking about the Irish scene. Is there one? Why is it so shit? etc.

I went along to the bouldering championships in Gravity a few weeks ago to put up posters for the meet. I was amazed and disappointed at the low attendance. Granted there was loads of kids there, which is great, but very few - maybe a dozen - older climbers. It looked like a youth comp. Gravity is a great venue for a comp, there was loads of space, the problems looked great, the weather was crap so where was everyone? Granted entry was pricey (€20 online in advance or €30 on the day plus you had to join MI (€44.20), so potentially €74.20) and that is something that should be looked at.

For the last few years there has been a climbing meet in the Gap of Dunloe in late spring. There is always a good attendance from a core of Cork and Kerry climbers but again very few make the effort to travel.

Trish did her talk for the IMC recently and apparently only a few greybeards and a few neophyte students attended.

Ireland is a small country with a small number of climbers so you might expect they would be a tight knit group but it doesn't seem to work that way. Each group seems to be focused on it's own area, rarely straying far. There are plenty of events (Gap meet, Fair Head meet, bouldering meet for starters) just limping along never really achieving their potential.

In Dublin it seems that most climbers are friendly with each other, but that doesn't seem to be the case in some other parts of the country. Personality clashes and grudges while not rife definitely are common.

So what makes a good scene? Lots of friendly rivalry, active climbers, new routes, good communication, good attendance by non-locals at organised events or even just lots of climbers travelling around the country.

Now I'm not on facebook so maybe I'm missing out on loads of interesting info but looking at the others Irish climbing sites there is very little going on. There very few bloggers and very little in the way of information flow about what people are up - that is assuming people are up to anything. Maybe some of this is an Irish reticence to blow one's own trumpet. If so I wish people would get over it, it's possible to share without boasting.

Well?

Source: Bouldering Ireland

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Readers required for my next book
7 March 2012, 8:45 pm



For the last few months I have been working on my next book. It's a bouldering "how to" book aimed at beginners, I haven't decided onthe final format (free ebook, paid ebook, paper book). And it's still far from finished but I'm looking for a few climbers who would be willing to read through chapters as they are written and give feedback. You don't need to be an expert in fact it might be better if you are relatively new to climbing.

If you are interested send me an email at flanagandavid at hotmail dot com. I would also be keen to hear from anyone who has any bouldering photos I might be interested in.

Source: Bouldering Ireland

[comPiler]

Nice Font video
8 March 2012, 1:16 pm



from davsck on Vimeo.

Source: Bouldering Ireland

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Bouldering Meet 2012
12 March 2012, 2:48 pm

The view from Zef's boulder at midnight.

Friday night was a late one for some of us but we still got to the  bouldering before midday on Saturday. It was a dry and mild with a tiny  hint of rain that never happened. There wasn't a huge number of people  around so it felt a bit like any given Sunday in Glendo. Saturday night  was a pretty mellow affair but we went for a climb on Zef's boulder just  before midnight which was a little strange but very worthwhile. Sunday  was perfect. Well far too hot for optimal friction but that didn't seem  to matter. 7 of us headed to Lough Dan which was a great call. We  checked out a few of the ultra classics including Shadow, 3 Kings,  Karma, Driving Seat and Tony's Arete.

The attendance was low but I'm not going to dwell on that, if people  don't bother coming it's their loss. Thanks to everyone who did bother I  hope it was worth it.

Was anyone in Glendo on Sunday?

Tim on Black Art.

David on his second ever topout.

Dec on 3 Kings.

Queue on the Karma boulder

Source: Bouldering Ireland

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Shadow, Lough Dan
14 March 2012, 5:40 pm

Dec on Shadow in Lough Dan, one of the best problems around.



Source: Bouldering Ireland

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Gap of Dunloe Climbing Meet 2012
19 March 2012, 1:57 pm

The fourth annual Gap of Dunloe climbing meet will take place from Friday 13th to Sunday 15th of April.

Camping in Con's field behind the Dunloe Golf Course. Toilets and  water on site. Camp fire provided, bring your instruments!

There is loads of great bouldering in the Gap and Black Valley and the meet is a great time to check it out. There are even some routes I believe.

Source: Bouldering Ireland

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Raven's Glen/Tonduff/O'Tooles Rocks
22 March 2012, 3:53 pm

Yesterday Dave Ayton put up a photo of a boulder on his blog. I recognised the boulder immediately having climbed on it many times. It's in Raven's Glen on the side of Tonduff mountain in Wicklow. The valley is about 15mins from Crone carpark.

Starting in the summer of 1999 some friends and I visited and climbed about ten routes on the cliffs. We also did some bouldering. We spent many weekends camping up there and messing about, we abseiled down the waterfalls, slide down the large slab where the stream runs in an inflatable boat. Pure fuckology. Most of the routes where a little scrappy some were decent. Soon after that bouldering took 100% of my focus.

I went back a few times over the years as my memory of the place faded and I felt there must be some good bouldering there. Plus it's not far from Dublin and the walk in is easy. There is a decent looking boulder close to the track. There is a good line up the middle of the front  face and a nice right arete. Used to try them every time we walked by. I even went last summer and got eated by midge and the sharp granite.

from Dave Ayton on Vimeo

So when Dave posted up his photo and video - see above - I wondered all over again had I missed something. He emailed me and I gave him a rundown of the history of the place.



We met up this morning and had a wander around. We tried the lines on the boulder but I was defeated as much by the sharpness of the rock as anything. We moved up and looked at the roof, which was a lot wetter than earlier in the week. This is Dave's project which he's hoping to do when it dries.

Dave had to rush off and I wandered up the higher tier and indulged in some nostalgia. It's a wonderful little valley especially near the top of the water slide. It looks like it has become more popular as a walking route in recent years as the tracks are well trod.

Funnily enough I had planned to come back and repeat some of the routes we did years ago. So I think I will still do that. On balance I found the rock a bit too sharp and dirty for quality bouldering through if it had enough traffic and was cleaned really well something could be made of the place.

Dave's Project tackles the RHS of the roof.

I believe a few people are heading out on Saturday for a look, I would be keen to hear what they think of the place.

After having complained recently about retroclaims, I think I should go and write up the routes we did on the wiki. I put the detail up on this website a long time ago but I don't think anyone read it then.

Source: Bouldering Ireland

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The Lonely Boulder - video
23 March 2012, 12:30 am



from Richard Creagh on Vimeo.

Great video by Richard Creagh of his ascent of a new problem - Puddle Arete - on The Lonely Boulder, Achill Island, Mayo. See topo here. Richard got up at 5 in the morning to squeeze in a bit of bouldering before work.

Source: Bouldering Ireland

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Kinky Reggae, Glenmalure - video
23 March 2012, 9:50 am



from chris rooney on Vimeo.

Chris Rooney on the ss to Kinky Reggae, Ballinafhusogue Boulder, Glenmalure, Wicklow.

Source: Bouldering Ireland

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Gap of Dunloe - video
25 March 2012, 7:21 pm



from Barry on Vimeo.

Some problems in the 6th grade at the gap of Dunloe, in the Southwest of ireland, on the Turnpike and Hex boulders. By Barry O'Dwyer.

Source: Bouldering Ireland

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Old photos
26 March 2012, 2:37 pm

Ped on Three Rock

Ped latching the dyno on the Third Rock

More Three Rock, round the back of the Third

Ped on The Plum, Glendo

James Gernon on The Plum

Ped in The Scalp

Add caption

[tr][td][/td][/tr] [tr][td]My makeshift bouldering mat[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr] [tr][td]My tshirt boulder mat in Font[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr] [tr][td]Neal in 95.2[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr] [tr][td]A young Big Jim[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr] [tr][td]The orginal O'Dwyer in Glendo[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr] [tr][td]The group that developed Carrickinfinn, Easter 2003[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr] [tr][td]Diarmuid and Ped in Tonduff, 2000?[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr] [tr][td]The spooky gate in Tonduff[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr] [tr][td]Ped on the slide in Tonduff[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr] [tr][td]Me on a route[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr] [tr][td]Kev Byrne in Glendo, 1998?

Earliest bouldering photo I have.[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr] [tr][td]Sparkle on our second trip to Glenmac[/td][/tr]

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Source: Bouldering Ireland

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A few old videos
27 March 2012, 7:19 pm

Specially for Barry.

ss

Please forgive the typo.

Source: Bouldering Ireland

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An Irish Bouldering forum?
28 March 2012, 11:08 am

Someone, Chris I think, commented on this post about the Irish bouldering scene that what we need is a decent message board. The current message board is pretty minimalist in terms of features and doesn't see a whole lot of traffic.

Would people think it would be a good idea to set up a Simple Machines Forum in the style of UkBouldering?

For starter we could keep the structure of it pretty simple and expand as necessary but it would allow people to PM, get notified of new replies, only see new messages all that stuff.

What do people think?

Source: Bouldering Ireland

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Raven's Glen - video
29 March 2012, 11:51 am

Dave Ayton just put up a video from Raven's Glen.

from Dave Ayton on Vimeo.

"Following on from the successful first visit, we turned up in greater  numbers with more pads - lots of new lines and repeats. The newly  established lines getting traffic and bringing them into good condition  for future ascents. John stumbled on a great featured roof with  potential for loads of lines and link-ups. Topo available here:

daveaytonsblog.blogspot.com/2012/03/new-topo-up-to-date.html "

Once the dust settles I will do up a topo and add it to the book updates.

Source: Bouldering Ireland

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New Irish Bouldering Forum
30 March 2012, 9:37 am

The new Irish Bouldering Forum is ready.

www.theshortspan.com/smf

At the moment it is pretty simple with only one board and if the traffic justifies it I will add more.

Please remember

• Be nice to each other.
• I would prefer if people used their real names. Pseudo anonymous posts will be moderated heavily ie. you can get away with me if you put your name to it.

PS. main site is down for a short while.

Source: Bouldering Ireland

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Grand friday
6 April 2012, 6:41 pm

Initially planned to go to the Quarry but decided to take the chance and head further a field. I prefer to keep local places like the Quarry and the Scalp for the evenings or when I don't have time to go further.

I believe there was a good few out in the Scalp today. Would be good to get a regular mid-week session going there.

Went down to a misty Wicklow Gap. Was pretty cold when we got out of the car. The inital boulders we visted were wet thanks to the driving mist, spotted a really nice slabby wall with around 5/6 nice looking slabs on it. The landing is slightly sloping but nothing a bit of light engineering can't sort.

Went to a more sheltered hillside and looked at a few things. Had a micro-revelation about the sheer volume of rock in the Wicklow Hills. There is tons, a lifetime easily. I keep a list of projects I want to climb/clean/try and it only gets longer. Probably added another dozen problems to it today.

Played on a rock I had been to a few times before and spotted a line that I'm not sure how I missed. Almost perfect arete, has holds but looks hard. Very highball, a route really. Going to try it on a rope once Ped gets me my stakes.

Ped and I spent ages on a nice rounded yoke. The crucial holds were filthy and we didn't have the mean to clean it. Ped has a ladder for me down in Munster which should be perfect for that sort of thing. We gave it a good few goes. nice moves. Codename: Optimus Prime. Will go after a clean.

 Stopped off at the hut on the way home and did the arete on Zef's boulder. Such nice rock, very draining problem. Bad value at 6a+ I'd say. Anyone done it?



Source: Bouldering Ireland

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theshortspan is updated
10 April 2012, 6:10 pm

I updated theshortspan last week. Tidied up a bit and there is now a shiny new forum as well. There is a blogroll and list of the latest forum posts on the left column. The right column will be for news. I can only put up what I hear so let me know if you have done anything interesting or new or have any good photos or videos.

This blog will focus on my day to day stuff.

Source: Bouldering Ireland

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Wicklow Gap
10 April 2012, 7:04 pm

Got out early today to beat the rain. Checked out a few problems I tried in May 2010. Still couldn't do the roof but was very bloody close. Bit annoying really. Ran out of chalk is the offical excuse. Tried the slab to the left that I didn't bother with last time. Absolutely immaculate rough, blank granite. Gradually steepening with a bulge at the top. The very top was wet which didn't help. I had been wondering recently why we didn't have any/many good pure smeary slabs, well this is a prime example. There was one hold of sorts a tiny little divot but it wasn't much use. Just pure smearing. Great. Took a about 5 falls on it that invovled running down the slap and jumping for the pad. They all went ok but there was potential to bursting. (Pad is around 9 feet below and 9 feet out from your feet at the crux). Will come back to it when it's dry.

Then drove up to the Wicklow Gap carpark and walked down to a boulder Seamus did some problems on a few years back. There are maybe, 4/5 quality lines on it. Some needed a bit of a clean. The central line took a lot of effort interuppted by rain and hail showers. Finally got it even though the top holds were damp. 6a+ maybe. Be interesting to see what Seamus gave it. I used every trick in the book to get up it. Thumb-cutting. Palm pinches.

[tr][td][/td][/tr] [tr][td]Did a bit of photoshop on this, is it overdone?[/td][/tr]

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Really enjoyed the battle. As much as I was on my own and had to work it out entirely for myself. Don't think I would of put as much in (= get as much out) if I had company. Does that make me a prospective serial killer?

Then went and sorted some landing for 2 great looking slab problems but was too wet to try them at that stage.

Got a call from James Gernon who got lost looking for Gullyblock. The shame of it (for me). I can easily imagine crawling through a dense forest guidebook in hand cursing me.

Lots happening at the moment which is great. Must of been that moan I had about the scene. It feels like I (my pals and I) have had the place to ourselves for years, which was cool, but it's great to see other people getting out there exploring, cleaning and climbing new problems. For year it's all been about Glendo and I'm glad to see people looking beyond that.  Thought to be honest it takes a little getting used to, I definitely have a sense of urgeny now, which is good. But there is plenty to go around anyway.

Good day. Lucky with the weather.

Source: Bouldering Ireland

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Scalp slab
24 April 2012, 4:02 pm

Went to the Scalp this morning to clean a slab that we had tried just over ten years ago. I abbed down and gave it a good clean, some of the ivy had even taken good hold. Sorted the landing and tried the moves on the rope. At first they felt desperate and in my head I had decided I was going to leave it, but after a rest it came together very quickly. I quickly did the crux a few times in a row, which invovles palming down on a smear and a large crystal. Was pleased but this also meant I was going to have to do it.

It's not that high but the ground drops away and there is a rock. I went through the rest of the moves and gave it another brush. I started trying it from the ground without the rope and it felt pretty ok but I decided to leave it. I will get back later in the week with another pad and a spotter.

Source: Bouldering Ireland

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The Connemara double
29 April 2012, 11:54 pm

On Saturday I had the privilege of climbing the 'best route in Connemara' and the 'best boulder problem in Connemara', Carrot Ridge and Highawatta. I christened it the Connemara double.

[tr][td][/td][/tr] [tr][td]Carrot Ridge in the stepped ridge on the LHS of the crag[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr] [tr][td]Ped on P3 just after he broke a foothold[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr] [tr][td]The top of the Second Step[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr] [tr][td]Two down jackets[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr] [tr][td]Another party on P3[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr] [tr][td]Highawatta.[/td][/tr]

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Source: Bouldering Ireland