[Duncan Disorderly]

Cheers for the clarification Tom - I thought you'd said this but I forget stuff easily

I'm definitely a parent.... but hard working... That's debatable

[Fiend]

Ancap - que?

[slackline]

Ancap - que?

Its polar opposite Anaerobic Capacity.

[Fiend]

I guessed that. What would Ancap train for and what would be Ancap training?

[slackline]

Doing lengths underwater

[shark]

I guessed that. What would Ancap train for and what would be Ancap training?

AnCap mainly trains the local energy systems in your forearms to repeatedly endure sequences of 10-15 hard moves that you would typically encounter on a sport route. An AnCap routine might be a set of 4 repeats of a sustained sequence of 15 hard moves with 2 mins rest between goes to form a set. Do 3 sets with 10mins rest between sets = 120 moves in total.     

More here: http://ukbouldering.com/media/pdf/principlestraining.pdf

[douglas]

The way I understood it from the slides above was that AnCap was training to generate lactate while AnPot is the training to tolerate lactic acid.

Is this true? I find the slides a nightmare to get my head around...

[cjsheps]

Like many AeroCap-ers, I'm aiming for Euro stamina. I've been doing very little except this (and the odd power session to make sure I don't become even more terminally weak!). Gotta say that the gains are insane - even though my bouldering's suffering slightly, I've gone from "totally unable to recover on buckets" to being alright at shaking out which is a big change for me.

If you can't get down the wall for the optimal 4 sessions a week, just do 10-20mins of moving hangs on a fingerboard with your feet on a chair, and repeat that twice. You can really nicely manage the pump, and suddenly climbing intervals doesn't seem anywhere near as dull!

[LB1782]

I've attempted to summarise bits of this thread by adding an- and aero-cap sections to the wiki:

http://www.ukbouldering.com/wiki/index.php/Training_:_The_Science

It could use an edit from someone who properly knows what they are talking about.

[Sasquatch]

I've attempted to summarise bits of this thread by adding an- and aero-cap sections to the wiki:

http://www.ukbouldering.com/wiki/index.php/Training_:_The_Science

It could use an edit from someone who properly knows what they are talking about.

My training experience comes from more of a Running/Biking/Triathlon background, but I think the basic concepts are still the same. 

That said, The wiki REALLY needs a more thorough introduction to training.  Right now the wiki page lists exercises(specific), but does not address training(holistic). 

To paraphrase a quote from a friend who has helped me understand training(Mike Barcom):

Training is a pre-meditated routine that is planned intelligently with the hope of attaining some tangible/defined goal.  It should be designed deliberately to transform your body towards whatever end you have in mind, and draw from the body of knowledge available by using specific exercises to create the gains that are desired.

Doing pre-planned workouts does not equate to training unless they are all designed to work together over time to acheive a defined goal.  For example we all know guys who fingerboard and campus, but are they training? or just exercising?  Another example is the concept of recovery.  Too much or too little recovery can destroy the worth of any specific workout.

[shark]

My training experience comes from more of a Running/Biking/Triathlon background, but I think the basic concepts are still the same. 

That said, The wiki REALLY needs a more thorough introduction to training.  Right now the wiki page lists exercises(specific), but does not address training(holistic). 

To paraphrase a quote from a friend who has helped me understand training(Mike Barcom):

Training is a pre-meditated routine that is planned intelligently with the hope of attaining some tangible/defined goal.  It should be designed deliberately to transform your body towards whatever end you have in mind, and draw from the body of knowledge available by using specific exercises to create the gains that are desired.

Doing pre-planned workouts does not equate to training unless they are all designed to work together over time to acheive a defined goal.  For example we all know guys who fingerboard and campus, but are they training? or just exercising?  Another example is the concept of recovery.  Too much or too little recovery can destroy the worth of any specific workout.

Good post and welcome to UKB.

Fancy having a crack at that introduction ?

Also we have a listing of training resources on the web which is a sticky post here

The presentations from the BMC Symposium in particular are a good introduction to systematic training.

Periodisation by Tom Randall
Principles of Training by Dave Binney

[slackline]

That said, The wiki REALLY needs a more thorough introduction to training.  Right now the wiki page lists exercises(specific), but does not address training(holistic). 

I've collated a lot of the stuff there, simply because it was one place to do so rather than having it spread over various threads.

I know dick all about training and do very little, hence the lack of coherent structure, just thought it might be useful to have everything in one place.

Like shark says, you can use your UKB log-in to edit the wiki to your hearts content.

[ghisino]

questions to those who play with aerocap here...
1. is it supposed to make your forearms feel rather dull the next day?
2.how many days to fully recover in your experience?

[highrepute]

1. is it supposed to make your forearms feel rather dull the next day?
2.how many days to fully recover in your experience?

Should be almost invigorating, many will do aerocap on a rest day as an active rest. If you've only just started doing it maybe you will take a few sessions to get used to it. try lowering the intensity a bit.

1. I'd expect to feel fresh if all i've done the day before is 20/30 mins aerocap
2. zero days

[Sasquatch]

...
Good post and welcome to UKB.

Fancy having a crack at that introduction ?

Also we have a listing of training resources on the web which is a sticky post here

The presentations from the BMC Symposium in particular are a good introduction to systematic training.

Periodisation by Tom Randall
Principles of Training by Dave Binney

I'd be game to give the intro a shot.  I'm always looking for stuff on the net about training and that sticky post is what brought me here.

Short Answer to Aerocap Question:  Agree with highrepute.

Long answer to the Aero-Cap concept, my .02$ is that there are two ways to do this.  One is more of an active recovery/maintenance type of function, the other is actually trying to "train/improve" your aerobic capacity. 

In the first case, this should be a relatively short session focusing on generating blood flow through your body, and specifically to the climbing muscles.  You should be going VERY easy (probably easier than you think), and should finish your workout feeling better than when you started.  An example for me is 6 x 5min on the wall (constant movement on really good holds, avoid no-hands resting) with 1-2 minutes rest between repeats.

In the second case, you would generally be having a longer session, and while you are still doing mainly easy climbing, you'll get tired by the end simply due to the volume. An example for me of this is once a week I do 4 x 30 min on wall (constant movement on really good holds, avoid no-hands resting) with 3-5 minutes rest between repeats.

 

[shark]

I'd be game to give the intro a shot.  I'm always looking for stuff on the net about training and that sticky post is what brought me here.