[Ged]

I've been meaning to post this since new year.  After reading various bits on here about possible bouldering at Mother Ivey's, I went for a look at new year, and wasn't dissapointed.  There isn't a huge amount to do, but what's there is quality.  It's a lovely beach, really near Harlyn and Constantine so well combined with a bit of surfing.

For directions, see here:


Park on the northern edge of the golf course, where the track splits off to the superbly named Boobies Bay.  Follow the road on, walk past the barn, and down the steps onto the beach.  There are 2 main sections with good climbing.  Turn right at the bottom of the steps, looking out to sea, and about 30 metres away are a few good problems. The best one is the overhanging wall with obvious notch for your left heel, and opposing slopy sidepulls.  Brilliant climbing, desperate before you figure out the appropriate foot faggotry.  I managed it from sitting, but this may be dependent on the sand level (i could start with my left on the heel thing).  Probably about 7A like this.

Just to the right is a steep slab that can by climbed using some holds on the steep wall, up to the little roof, and top out just right.  About 6C and a great technical problem.  Right again is a couple of easier lines on big holds, and then another good technical one using the right hand sidepull, and up to a scary top out on the 2 big protrusions on the slab.

At the western end of the beach is another section with an obvious ramp line, and a few other good looking bits that I didn;t get round to trying.

Sorry, didn't get round to taking any photo's.  I'm sure all the problems have been done by someone before, but thought I'd post it here as it's well worth a visit and a really nice beach to spend the day on

Ged

[SA Chris]

Sounds cool. Tidal?

Is there anything at Bedruthan Steps? Looks like there should be something, there's a lot of rock there, but never really explored it.

[ben]

Sounds cool. Tidal?

Chris - yeah definitely very tidal. Conditions best with a northerly wind to dry it quicker

[RowanSB]

Good to have another venue, will check it out when im down in easter!

[Ged]

When I was down it only seemed to be cut off for about an hour at high tide, but they may have been small tides.

The rock is very smooth and compact, which makes it very easy to dry holds with a brush/rag and chalk

Would be interested to hear what other people have done here?

[A Jooser]

Cheers for the approach beta I've only ever walked there from a few miles to the east and I've never been able to work out the best way to the beach through the forest of grockle boxes. You've prompted me to dig out a couple of photos relating to my post on the last thread. I'll quote it here to keep all the info together...

Mother Iveys is only worth a visit if you're staying nearby. I suspect Pantontino has done as much there as anyone on this forum so he might be able to give you more details. The stand out line is near the western end of the beach where there's a convex wall – a bit like the side of a ship – with a finger-rail ramp-line type thing curving up it. I haven't done this myself so don't know the grade. There's a highball slab in the centre of the beach with an X-shape of two diagonal cracks, these are pretty good and both about V2-ish. There's straight up lines on this bit too but again nothing harder than V2. All problems are tidal, the rock has little friction and can be fragile. It's mostly north facing so tends to be greasy even in summer.

This is the slab I was talking about which I guess is just east of the problems you've described. There is a good section of overhanging rock to the right of this picture. I seem to remember the right-to-left diagonal was the best problem with the left-to-right one being a little harder. Straight up the blank slab to the right (chalk visible) was, perhaps, the hardest but all three were V2-ish (6A/6A+ ish). I did the other obvious straight ups on the slab but they're easier. The ramp-line over on the west end of the beach has been done by a friend of mine but I don't know how hard it is.

This pic is of the best problem on that slab...

[Ged]

The problem I was on about, the 7A ish sitter, is just visible on the right of that photo of the slab.  The ramp thing at the other end of the beach does look ace.