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More cornwall bouldering, especially Mother Iveys... (Read 3091 times)

Ged

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Right, I've done a lot of searching around the threads on here and seem to be going round in circles.  For some reason the Blocspenwith site doesn't seem to be working, is it still in existence?  Couldn't get any topo's off it.

I'm specifically after info on the bouldering at Mother Iveys (the spot near Trevone), and Godrevy.  I've been to Clodgy, Tintagel and Gwenvor.  What are the other must visit places? 

ANy help with info on problems above v6 at Godrevy and Mother Iveys would be much appreciated

Ged

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No direct help, but if blocspenwith isn't working/hosting topos, see if they've been archived.

A Jooser

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Mother Iveys is only worth a visit if you're staying nearby. I suspect Pantontino has done as much there as anyone on this forum so he might be able to give you more details. The stand out line is near the western end of the beach where there's a convex wall – a bit like the side of a ship – with a finger-rail ramp-line type thing curving up it. I haven't done this myself so don't know the grade. There's a highball slab in the centre of the beach with an X-shape of two diagonal cracks, these are pretty good and both about V2-ish. There's straight up lines on this bit too but again nothing harder than V2. All problems are tidal, the rock has little friction and can be fragile. It's mostly north facing so tends to be greasy even in summer.

A better bet if in the area might be to check out Tom Newberry’s problems around Pentire (see news reports from June/July on Javu).

Godrevy: blocspenwith is still working okay – but it's never seemed to work very well – perhaps try using a different computer to view it. This link should get you to blocspenwith's Godrevy PDF Topo. There's another guide available for Godrevy, done by John Hooper, (here) but it's now quite dated and doesn't cover the better areas or harder stuff particularly well.

It's hard to recommend problems without having to explain how to find them, but there is plenty to go at. LTP Right (#102 in John Hooper's guide) and Left are both good as are the ones in Andy W's video (below). Dan Varian's Blacking Out the Friction problems are excellent too (the other video below). Left of Blacking Out... is a left-to-right lip-traverse from a sitter to finish upwards at the right-hand side of the square-cut groove seen in the video. This is a good V6 called The Sweep which hasn't seen much attention – it'll be wet all winter though!

Godrevy is the only venue that comes close to being a 'must visit place' – if conditions are good. Although this time of year it's worth thinking about the granite! I'd recommend Helman Tor if Mother Iveys is too greasy and Carn Brea as a Plan B for Godrevy. If you pick a dry day with a north-easterly breeze the coastal stuff should be fine anyway.




 

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