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resources: Training (Coaches, books and web articles) (Read 214977 times)

Nibile

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And you'll be rewarded.

slackline

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jfdm

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http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=8023


Link UKC's interview with Neil Gresham's about his fingerboard app.
Used app to get back into finger boarding, using beginner level.
Seems to be pretty comprehensive.
Includes warmups and warm down.
Calibration adding removing weight etc.
All in all a better bet than the beast maker app.

jfdm

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Nice trx routine  :weakbench:

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If you are of the iSad disposition and haven't looked at the iTunes U thingamabobbydubrymawatchit (which I never had).
There are some excellent bits and bobs available for £Fa. I found a great set of resources/books/vids etc at A level (? Actually an Auzzy Int. Baccalaureate, I think that's A level) Sport science/PE.

Never tried linking to iTunes, so I guess it only works through the iTunes U app (I heard there is an Android version, but not sure).


https://itunes.apple.com/gb/course/sport-exercise-health-science/id815828325




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Nibile

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And, again, about why you should attach the weight on the back for loaded pull ups.
https://www.t-nation.com/training/tip-for-pull-ups-hang-weight-in-the-back

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Short but quite interesting interview with Steve House on theclymb.com

Quote
What peo­ple need to under­stand is the cor­rect time­frame for train­ing is not weeks, but it’s months or years. A lot of peo­ple will say they’ve been train­ing for two weeks, but that’s not train­ing. Train­ing hap­pens when you’re doing cumu­la­tive, grad­ual, pro­gres­sive exer­cise over many, many months.

boxmonkey

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Been finding this thread really helpful.

Have you guys come across any apps that help with training plans? I've looked at a few but they all have fairly poor reviews. There seem to be a lot of great books out there but none which have been translated into an app that combines the info you need to progress along with the training plan/diary feature some of the apps offer.

Anyway, this thread is really helpful.

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Here's a little conditioning article I put together for Highball Bouldering Centre, Norwich. It covers a mixture of my favourite exercises that I like to do off the climbing wall.

http://highballclimbingnorwich.com/blog/ben-west-training-plan-for-climbing/

For more articles, info and training tips check out:

http://up-grade.uk/ to keep up to date.

jfdm

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Mr Campus in Germany, the clip at the end from back in the day is brill. :strongbench:
Who needs dungarees when you can climb in shorts like that.

jfdm

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A really interesting insight into pro training.
Hats off to Sean for doing this.
 :strongbench:

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Really interesting Training Beta podcast from Neely's shoulder surgeon.

https://www.trainingbeta.com/media/tom-hackett/

a dense loner

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I liked seans training vids, hope he does more of em. It's the mundane that's more interesting than the magic bullet!

jfdm

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Want to get strong, might do some of this. :strongbench:

Nibile

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jfdm,
I don't want to piss on your chips/video, but that's not very accurate. There's surely some strength training involved (campusing) but no power training. None of those excercises have a speed component, and power is strength x speed.
Also, there's no finger strength training. Endurance, yes, strength, no.
Moreover, the warm up part is very superficial.
Route climbing as a warm up for campusing? Yes, but book an appointment with your phisio first.
Each session should have a general warm up (gentle route climbing maybe) and a specific warm up prior to each excercise, that mimic the excercise at a lower intensity but with the same movement patterns.
My point is: if someone wants to give public training advice, the least they could do is do it well.

jwi

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Well, short strength endurance (i.e. training that increase dL/dt like the finger-board protocol in the video) has some spill-over effects on strength, especially in the untrained individual (like me, e.g.). So there's always that.

Nibile

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Yes, absolutely, almost anything will help somehow.
I was just pointing out that, in my opinion, the whole thing wasn't accurately made and was somehow misleading.

jfdm

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Thanks Nibs, wasn't thinking about following the whole of the video to the letter.
Just some bits.
Agreed warm-up hopeless, just some guy route climbing.
I've been bouldering on plastic for about 3-4 yrs.
Having climbed quite a bit when I was younger. Inside/outside. Now 40.
Making some progress, v4/5 range by simply climbing 2-3 times a week.
Now want to do something more than just potter around.
Was thinking about once a week, strengthen dynamic snap and fingers.
Warm up routine - limbering 10-15 mins.
Easy probs for half hour - climbing warm up.
Some easy campusing on huge rounded rungs 2-4 round ladders.
Then some campusing, at wall only have medium campus rungs. Again ladders 2-4 rounds.
Do for 4 weeks. Then evaluate. Don't do above if tired.
Done the above for 2 weeks so far so good.
Weak areas for me flexability and generating power to move dynamically between holds.

Murph

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Ok so that workout is a bit of everything.

But the campus routine, that is training power yeah? Or not at all? Or is the criticism that it is inferior to, say, a plyometric campus routine? Sorry if this is a dumb question...

Asking cos strength is not one of my weaknesses but "going for it" is, which is possibly because of a lack of power (as well as general technical crapness). I am looking to address this weakness in the coming months through embarking on some form of campus routine but currently shopping around for what to actually do this nice I get under the board.


Nibile

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Hey,
I'm currently unable to reply properly because I'm about to go out. If noone else replies sooner, I'll drop a few ideas tomorrow.

Murph

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Appreciate it nibs (or anyone else willing to advise).

FWIW, this is the routine I was looking to build something from. The plyo bit sounds a bit scary so was going to dip a toe in the water with the basics first.

Happy to start another thread of this isn't the place.

http://www.powercompanyclimbing.com/blog/2015/04/campusing-part-1-for-powerbig-rungs-big.html
« Last Edit: October 22, 2016, 07:07:38 pm by Murph »

jwi

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Power needs to be trained at loads of 30-60% of max, at as high velocity as possible for the given load. Very very few people can train power by pulling footless.

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Murph

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So feet/foot on campusing for power?

 

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