[erm, sam]

http://www.selfcoachedclimber.com/

Lots of interesting posts about training..

[shark]

http://www.selfcoachedclimber.com/

Lots of interesting posts about training..

Good find !

I'll add it to the original post

[robertostallioni]

I do want to get trained and very willing to pay. How much would it cost for me to get a good trainer?

[shark]

As much as that 

[robertostallioni]

You ruined that for me. I was in there.

[shark]

You ruined that for me. I was in there.

Soz. I didn't realise Nigerian spammers were your type

[Paul B]

Struggling on the beastmaker slopers? Look no further...



http://www.upskillclimbing.com/2012/01/mere-mortals-guide-to-beasting.html

[Muenchener]

Eva López has what looks like it would be a detailed and well researched article on fingerboarding for somebody who could read Spanish.

... and now also for people who can read English

[dk]

http://www.mikedoyle.ca/climbing/coachingdoc.pdf

I don't think this has already been mentioned but it one of the better articles I've found.

Also what are people's ideas on training stamina? Is it better to do loads of mileage without getting so pumped you fall off, or climb till pump makes you fall of quickly shake out and carry on up on easier ground maintaining the pump?

I read that lactic acid actually breaks down your muscles so it isn't a good idea to get really pumped to often as this will cause dramatic reductions in strenght?

[shark]

Hi dk

The article has been on the web for several years but IMO doesn't think it added anything new.

The physiology of chemical reactions is pretty complicated but suffice to say that lactic acid doesnt break down your muscles although there is a trade-off between strength and endurance training. If you read up on the Dave Binney and Tom Randall articles linked that can give you a good working structure in understanding the different energy sytems and how to train them.

HTH

[dk]

Thanks, I wasn't sure about how true it was that Lactic acid would break down your muscles. ill give those articles a read tomorow 

[Nibile]

A comparative study of Upper Body Performance Factors in sport climbers and boulderers. From Eva Lopez's latest entry bibliography. 118 pages...
http://gradworks.umi.com/1481622.pdf

[Stubbs]

A comparative study of Upper Body Performance Factors in sport climbers and boulderers. From Eva Lopez's latest entry bibliography. 118 pages...
http://gradworks.umi.com/1481622.pdf

No significant anthropometric and UBPC differences
were found between male sport climbers and boulderers. Female boulderers had
significantly greater handgrip and pinchgrip strength than female sport climbers (p <
0.05). Maximal campusboard reach was significantly related to climbing skill level for
all groups (p < 0.05). Therefore, grip strength may be more important for female boulderers than female sport climbers, and campusboard training may improve one's
climbing ability.

[Paul B]

Push-up endurance was employed in this study to quantify muscular endurance
among the participants, no distinction was found between the sexes, as well as between
the sport climbers and boulderers. The results also indicate that there was no significant
relationship between push-up endurance and climbing skill level.

  Call Sherlock, quick!

[Nibile]

Just went through the pages while on the bus. Is it useless?

[Nibile]

I found this interesting, although mainly addressed to the lower body. Bodyweight excercises with a few routines.
https://usagym.org/pages/home/publications/technique/2009/01/16_bodyweight.pdf

[Nibile]

Still on T-nation, a site with a lot of useful information, and the only site I've ever found in which they make clear the difference between being big and being strong.
A nice article about training power in commercial gyms.
http://www.t-nation.com/free_online_article/most_recent/commercial_gym_power

[Big Dave]

There are some excellent articles and information on the t-nation site/blog. However, they do like to advertise some of their products in the articles sometimes which is a bit annoying, but I just ignore that.

[thekettle]

Steve Betchel of Climbstrong has recenty published a rather good mini-book on interval training for power endurance:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Climb-Strong-Endurance-Steve-Bechtel/dp/1470046156/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1348341994&sr=8-1-fkmr0

[Nibile]

This could easily pi** off many ones, but I think it's interesting.
Opinions? Science?
http://www.t-nation.com/free_online_article/most_recent/conditioning_is_a_sham

[Muenchener]

loading 200 bales of hay is only an endurance task to a guy that's strong enough to actually perform the work

What's that Tony Yaniro quote? Something like "if you can't do the moves, there is nothing to endure"

[sebpoch]

very useful list with some of very good links 

[krymson]

I thought this was a good interview with advice along the lines of Dave's 9 out of 10.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68093&utm_source=twitterfeed&utm_medium=twitter

I guess the interview is notable in that it is not about training performance at all, but a more gestalt view - that there is more to athlete development than the pure development of performance, and that it is important to recognize the importance and impact of things like  --the  "human relationship"(your social environment), your motivations, and balancing hard training with the oft neglected injury prevention.

There is some more details in this other interview as well.

If you're looking for specific performance advice this isn't it, but for thoughts about long term development i think it's good.

[mrjonathanr]

loading 200 bales of hay is only an endurance task to a guy that's strong enough to actually perform the work

What's that Tony Yaniro quote? Something like "if you can't do the moves, there is nothing to endure"

Here's a Yaniro quote:
" Never, ever pass up an opportunity to get pumped. "

Maybe route climbers should train the lot...
8a+ in 1979...

[krymson]

http://scoobysworkshop.com/

Really solid advice about lifting and working out in general from a guy who knows what he's on about, taught in an approachable way.

Besides a good understanding of whats important and not, he really goes into depth about how to  properly do exercises. For example, he doesn't just coach you on shouder raises, but on how you should concentrate on the pinky and lift slowly. He doesn't just teach you the motion of a dumbbell press but explains the importance of keeping your shoulders packed while doing the press.