[tomtom]

As the sun sets on another week....
STG 7B+

M: Early evening session at the Stockport wall. Good session, bludgeoned my way through a few V5-6's though not all. But left dutifully knackered
T: Work
W: More work
T: Even more work..
F: Managed to sneak off work and went to the Secret Garden for the first time - was a bit damp in places so had to warm up on harder stuff than I'd liked. Was climbing log but finally worked up some enthusiasm and had a good bash at Beach Ball. Worked all the moves overlapping, but not enough left in the tank for the full sequence (with full use of the knee like GCW in his vid...)
S: Went to Bridestones for the first time.. windy, cold but good conditions. Mainly did things around Smart Wall, notably Charlotte Rampling in a few go's... not climbing too bad, despite the quite different nature of the climbing... Had a little tickle on Horror Arete, but was happy watching someone else do it.
Su: Aching arms rest....

A much better week than previous - and back in the swing of climbing again. Good to go to two new venue's and I think Beach Ball will go next time..

[Nibile]

mon - beast. easy session, mostly one armed. held the 45° really well and held the small slopey two finger pockets, almost did a pull up on them. good.
tue - wall. good session, set and did two new problems and tried another one. fingers.
wed - was tired from work, so went to the gym to do weights.
thu - rest.
fri - knackered from work. rest.
sat - bouldering. nothing special apart the 21° in the sun.
sun - went to sasso to fix the landing on the project. good workout of shifting big logs. tired.

[i_a_coops]

STG: 8a, 7C
MTG: Threadbare, Cabaret, Jihadi when they dry out. 7C+ on sandstone this winter.

M - Indoor bouldering, burned off by Jacob. No power, no snap - too many days on. P.E. good though
T - A few open handed one armers on the bar in the morning, otherwise rest.
W - rest
T - Indoor bouldering. Tore the wall to bits.
F - rest
S - Shorn Cliff, stamina training, aka hanging on for ages while fiddling with gear on the most overgraded trad routes in the world. At Shorn Cliff, I can onsight E6 without wetting myself. This means there is something wrong with the E6 in question, like, perhaps it ISN'T E6.

I desperately want to go sport climbing/bouldering on limestone as my strength and endurance on little edges is significantly better than it's ever been, unfortunately the only option I had this weekend was trad, and I'm going to the roaches tomorrow to remind myself how useless I am on grit!

[Charles]

mon - nowt
tues - depot. Got on the beastmaker. Did basic problem both sides. Got shown some problems, did one with pockets on left side. Campussed 1 - 4 - 6.5 both hands leading. Rings to finish.
weds - nowt. Core felt ruined.
thurs - depot. Long session. Tried new yellows. Did 4 (flashed 2) Got on the beastmaker. Did basic problem both sides. Did one with pockets both sides. Did one with big move on right side.
fri - nowt. Drank for the first time in 2 weeks. Forgot how fuzzy drinking makes you feel in the morning, even after only 5 pints.
saturday - depot. short session. Got on Beastmaker. did basic problem both sides. Did big move problem both sides. Got shown fingery problem. Nearly flashed left side. Struggled to do anything on right side.
sunday - nowt.

Good week. Felt improvements in core and power straight away. Weight down to 155lbs too.

[205Chris]

STGs (this winter): Highball the old-school E5s of Tierdrop, Suavito, Art of White Hat Wearing, Chip Shop Brawl & Sole Power.

MTG (next summer): 8a sport route.

M:Gave my skin a rest after 2 days on the grit.

T: Foundry. Bouldering on the wave. Felt pretty weak and didn't climb that well. Makes a nice change from the works though. Might need to head there more often.

W: Nowt

T: Nowt

F: Meet up with Nai at Burbage North hoping to look at the Sphinx. Warm up on Life in a Radioactive Dustbin which I'd not done before. Move on to the Sphinx but it's looks a bit green and struggle to get psyched for it. Try Giza instead and surprise myself by making good progress. After dropping the finishing hold twice (props to Nai for the spotting!) I finally get it done.

S: Secret Garden. Went to look at Dick Wiliams but the top sloper was in the sun and I could get it but couldn't move off it. One to go back for on a colder day. Few gos on David at Mother Cap but the crimp destroys my skin and I quickly sack it off. Head over to millstone and tick off Technical Master & TMLH.

S: Plantation. Had a quick play on Beneath the Breadline. Find it pretty scary and insecure so try the link up of breadline into the storm. Can reach the crimp on the storm but matching it feels desperate. Go home due to lack of skin. Quick beastmaker session as didn't really do that much climbing today.

Not a bad week, surprised myself with getting Giza in a session. Seem to have an annoying habit of falling off the top of highballs (see last week's power club entry) but at least I appear to bounce quite well as I haven't done any lasting damage yet.

[nai]

Season goals - bloc pyramid (as per SCC) of 15 7B-7C+ problems peaking with Brad Pit (2 7B+s done so far), grit E4
2011 goals - 8a (number of options), lime & mountain E4s (Flakey Wall & Resurrection)

m-w rest tired skin (but couldn't have done anything anyway).
T - fingerboard & lockoffs, strongest I've ever felt on it.
F - afternoon out with 205Chris trying Giza as Sphinx was green. Didn't get it but changed sequence late on and did well enough to be optmistic for a return bout.  Did get LIARD though which had been a bogey problem previously.
s- up all previous night with poorly daughter, v tired, nowt.
S - quick fb session & lockoffs, felt strong again surprisingly.

Largely felt crappy all week but climbed ok and felt strong on the fingerboard. Odd, but musn't grumble.

[robertostallioni]

M: Early evening session at the Stockport wall. Good session, bludgeoned my way through a few V5-6's though not all. But left

 Thought it were thee.

[shark]

Weight 11.6-7

M-F. Various core and corrective exercise some DB sets. Starined back on Friday attempting a front lever 
S.
S. midday. Short visit to Plantation with Ben till he started whimpering with the cold. Did the slopey traverse on the Pebble which I'd not done before with some beta (forget your feet) also reached the last sidepull twice on Deliverance Trav though have done that before. Nap. Foundry with Ben doing an AeroCap session got spanked  Both Ben and Tom are fitter on the Wall than me    Things can only get better

Back is still sore. Programme started today. Have booked Duncan Disorderly for a route 4x4 session at the Edge on Tues eve which hopefully we can make a regular thing. Also need to fit in 4 structured bouldering/board sessions in and two fingerboard sessions.

[Luthor]

MTG - Climb some good problems this winter, train well - not get injured/ill..

Tues - Crap training week again as still recovering. Tried climbing at works on tues (first indoor sess for a few weeks) and felt rusty and tired. Didnt bother rest of week as decided to rest and keep fingers crossed for good weather on saturday.

Sat - Great trip out to Cratcliffe on Saturday. Managed to do T-crack, after figuring out sequence for top last weekend. Well chuffed and only 3rd prob at 7b. Also did the lark - direct problem on jerry's traverse and worked razor roof link. All good :-)

Hopefully feel a bit fitter this week and be able to do a couple of indoor sessions after work. Hoping for good weather again next weekend.

[Andy F]

Goal - Font 7B+ before the end of the year.

Quiet week due to work/illness

Mon - rest
Tues - 20 mins on the fingerboard the stopped as I felt terrible
Wed - Parents evening/Big Ron lecture
Thurs/Fri - in bed with heavy cold, sneezing and spluttering
Sat - pottered with the family
Sun - Rock-Over. Lots of volume but nothing hard ticked, felt jaded and weak but kept at it. It was good to bump into an old friend and try some harder stuff that I normally wouldn't go at. More things to go back for.

I'm enjoying the bouldering at Rock-over, but do need to get on the rock. hopefully the Cave will dry out and I can start projecting some harder stuff. I also need to get psyched for the Grit, but that is lacking at the minute.

[tomtom]

M: Early evening session at the Stockport wall. Good session, bludgeoned my way through a few V5-6's though not all. But left

 Thought it were thee.

 

Hello! Great to put a name to a face/avatar    (Great chalk receptacle bag btw..  )

[Dexter]

m: wall session felt good got on a lot of crimps
t: rest,a bit of beastmaker but not a lot
w: work work work plus quick session at the wall got all the moves on a 7c just need tolink
t: lots of beastmaker campusing
f:big session at the wall 6hours no more progress on the 7c though
s:sweet fuck all
s: also sweet fuck all

[tommytwotone]

MTG - Font 7b by end of '10

M - Very average Depot session, weak as piss, struggled with some of the new blues and then to top it of codded my fnger
T - Nowt, big dinner and a few glasses of rouge
W - Very psyched board session, felt loads better
T - Nowt, went out for dinner
F - Nowt, Hold 'Em night in Sheff
S - Brilliant day at Froggatt soloing including Sundowner, which I've never been able to MTFU and do before
S - Good session at The Works, climbed well despite a massive night out on Sat

[Muenchener]

STG: Reduce the yawning gap between my slab & steep leading grades - currently (soft) 6c and 6a respectively - by putting another couple of layers on my SCC pyramid for steeps and avoiding the temptation to fart about on slabs when I should be getting pumped. Mittlere Weisse Wand, Konstein.
MTG: Decide on a target for Arco at Easter
LTG: 7a rp; classic big Vs / VIs at local crags (Kaisergebirge, Wetterstein etc.) e.g. West Face Totenkirchl

M: Bouldering: one hour lunchtime session in office gym.
T: Bike 24 km
W: (missed normal wall routes session due to parents' evening)
T: Bouldering: office gym coaching session. Starting to feel warning twinges from my *right* ring finger (after injuring left in the summer) - need to be careful and back off the tweaky bouldering again for a while.
F:
S:
S: Wall, Thalkirchen with Frau Muenchener. Feeling weak, much time spent playing on slabs instead of working on steep stuff. Reasonable mileage session though, thirteen routes

[aly]

Week could have been worse but the finger is still incredibly frustrating.

LLTG: 7C and proper 8a
MTG: get back to easy trad/sport

Mon: Fingerboard session
Tues: trying front levers and one-arm locks.  Managed to do a one armer from 90degs to the top which is a mini YYFY for me (who couldn't even hang a pull up bar one handed a few months ago).  Front lever getting closer.
Weds: go to wall, a few easy routes and easy bouldering.  Anything remotely steep or crimpy is still out of the question.
Thurs: Run and fingerboard/pull ups
Fri: nothing
Sat: A rather wet lake district.  Had a fun session on the Langdale Boulders (suitable overgrading led to an ego-friendly session).
Sun: Walk up Langdale Pikes, pull up and core session (managed to repeat the half-one armer).

STG: do a one armer and front lever.  Need to try and train the bottom half of the one-armer.

[Barratt]

Mon-fri: scans on shoulder leave it feeling pretty messed up, manage a session down the works, mostly taking it easy (as i have for a few weeks now).

Sat: cratcliffe & rhs. Warm up on some easier stuff then try The Kid, get it second go. Also get the Lark at Cratcliffe.

Don't think I've climbed better then I currently am, despite the injury. Odd. Still, looks positive for when I can use my shoulder again!

[Charles]

S - Brilliant day at Froggatt soloing including Sundowner, which I've never been able to MTFU and do before

Good effort. I did this once on a rare bold day - remember it feeling great to top out on!

[Luthor]

Don't think I've climbed better then I currently am, despite the injury. Odd. Still, looks positive for when I can use my shoulder again!

Yeah mate, all positive.  Expecting to have to up my game when you get fixed.

[GCW]

with full use of the knee like GCW in his vid...)

It's the only way: if above has done it withou the knee beta, get back around!

If it's the right vid, the best bit is the Bob the Builder extra at the end

[tomtom]

with full use of the knee like GCW in his vid...)

It's the only way: if above has done it withou the knee beta, get back around!

If it's the right vid, the best bit is the Bob the Builder extra at the end

Yup - I saw that    That knee made all the difference... (and is still suitably bruised!)

[nik at work]

8b+, 8B

STG: 8a+

M - nothing
T - planned a board session, then didn't bother
W - short board session, not very impressive
T - nothing
F-S - working

Still feeling the effects of illness and a bit of niggley injury issues. Hopefully on the up now...

[Fatboy]

STG: Climb multiple 6b problems (consistantly)
MTG: Climb 6c project Chillax (Glendalough, Co. Wicklow, Ireland)

M: Rest as hard session at the wall the day before.
T: Climbed at wall, felt good. Warmed up and tried slopey traverse project, further progress, sticking point is pump.
W: Cardio - 5-a-side football and stretching afterwards. Ran for most of game and was tired afterwards.
T: Climbed at wall, felt ok-ish. Slopey traverse again and same pump point, head wasn't in it.
F: Night out on the tiles, ate and drank a lot.
S: Surprisingly un-hungover, rest.
S: Rest, trip across the country to see a man about a dog. Savage burger in little cafe in Strandhill, Sligo.

Comments: Good week overall with a little distraction at the weekend, can definitely feel the progress and feeling stronger - twinge in wrist is there but staying the same... physio? 

[Falling Down]

STG: Boulder 3 7a+'s by end Nov
MTG’s (End 2010) – Boulder Font 7b.
VLTG’s – Redpoint 8b, Boulder 8a, Onsight E6 drop weight to 11.5 st.

M, T, W - Copenhagen with work. Early starts and late finishes (Wine)
T - London.  Hotel room workout. Squats and 1-20 Burpee Ladder (Beer)
F - Reading.  Really tired by the time I got home (Wine)
S - Walk. (Beer at Eastlands)
S - Short session at Gib Tor with Galpinos.  Tried to repeat Stall and just got the beta figured out again when I ripped a deep flapper in the tip of my RH ring finger.

One of those hectic work weeks and I also ate and drank a bit too much - not that much of a big deal as my RH middle finger was tweaky after climbing at the wall on Wednesday.  The Burpee ladder crucified my lats as they are still sore as I'm typing this. 

With my finger bruised, I'm beginning to question the risk vs reward of trying to boulder hard indoors when a combo of progressive fingerboarding, full body weights/PE workouts and outdoor bouldering when the weather is good seems to deliver results with a much diminished risk of injury.

[dontfollowme]

Sat: cratcliffe & rhs. Warm up on some easier stuff then try The Kid, get it second go. Also get the Lark at Cratcliffe.

Whereabouts is The Kid? I can't see it in the guide. Is Lark the 6c vertical problem that goes through Jerry's Traverse?

[Duncan Disorderly]

Some quality Peak and Yorkshire 7b's and 7c's next season, Font 7B+ this winter, F8a by 1st Jan 2014.

M: Nowt - Cept DIY crap.
T: Bouldering @ The Works - Good session, did plenty of black and yellows, some comp wall problems and lock off work on campus board.
W: Nowt - Cept DIY crap.
T:  Bouldering @ The Works - Good session, did plenty more black and yellows and the odd yellow.
F: Nowt
S: Bouldering @ Burbage with boy - nice afternoon doing the usual circuit, snatched defeat from the jaws of victory on a 7a slab after doing the hard bit (foot popped from the only good foothold WTF! - Becoming a bit of a theme this )
S: Tiling - More bloody DI ing Y

Bit one day on, one day off.... Need to up intensity and frequency if I wanna make progress - Oh and finish bloody DIY so I can get on with it.

:D