[DrBunny]

What problems do people think are easier for the short? To narrow this down a bit, I'd be specifically interested in problems in the 6c-7b range in the Peak and Yorkshire. Many thanks!

(Not so much interested in a discussion about heightism/whether height plays a role, blah, blah. I'm sure there's space for that elsewhere).

[Johnny Brown]

How short?

[DrBunny]

5 ft 3. Pretty darn short, I guess.

[T_B]

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=66498

[Norton Sharley]

What problems do people think are easier for the short? To narrow this down a bit, I'd be specifically interested in problems in the 6c-7b range in the Peak and Yorkshire. Many thanks!

(Not so much interested in a discussion about heightism/whether height plays a role, blah, blah. I'm sure there's space for that elsewhere).

If height doesn't play a role why are you interested in problems that are easier for the short? 

[slackline]

I guess DrBunny is short (at a state height of 5ft 3inches) and is interested in problems suited to their stature but doesn't wish to get into a discussion about height and its relationship to various problems/climbing ability in general. 

[DrBunny]

Spot-on, slack line.

[Norton Sharley]

So are we talking about 'normal' 6c-7b, tall 6c-7b or short 6c-7b then?  Or put another way something that's 6c for the tall but 7b for the short?  Or something in between.  I wouldn't recommend any dynos DrBunny and always take out two pads so you can reach the first holds.  Sit starts obviously.  We could just recommend you some decent problems instead that could be anywhere between 6c and 7b and not worry about the grades too much?

[DrBunny]

Ehm, thanks. Again, I wasn't so much looking for general advice on how to climb when you're short, or how to approach grades or anything. Just a few problems that people think are easier for the short. The low traverse at Burbage West is one (thanks, T_B). Surely, there's a couple more?

[Johnny Brown]

I'm yet to be convinced there's such a thing a problem that is easier for the short. There are plenty that are no harder for the short though.

[tomtom]

I'm yet to be convinced there's such a thing a problem that is easier for the short. There are plenty that are no harder for the short though.

From a normal tall persons perspective (I climb quite alot with shorter people..)

Many sit starts - (trying to curl those legs up somewhere)
things with undercuts -
also often I'm (easily) beaten on thin crimpy things where I think shorter people find it easier to get the weight beneath hands...

[Paul B]

just steer clear of anything that says 'morpho' and you'll be fine  The grade range must have been covered before.

[nodder]

Wish I could help but I cant.  Although i think the best thing i ever saw on rock was a short guy at bas cuvier turned up about 2 hours before dark and did everything like it was nothing.  Doubt he was even 5 foot tall.  Awesome he was.  Got one that circe de freak at earl nobody normal is getting up that with that foot sequence, although the first move is easier if your tall, and its not in the peak nor 6c-7b, yep as I said i cant help.  But he was awesome.  That short guy in cuvier.

[superfurrymonkey]

Was it Toulouse Lautrec? 

[Norton Sharley]

I'm yet to be convinced there's such a thing a problem that is easier for the short. There are plenty that are no harder for the short though.

Indeed, just a different grade? 

[Paul B]

La Denmat...?

[ShortRound]

At Brimham rocks around the black chipper area there is an arete called Parrapa the Rapper which is 7b according to the Total Climbing Yorkshire Grit bouldering guide. I can't find the problem on yorkshiregrit.com or ukclimbing but it's definitely in the book and has a very bunched up move to get your feet on the wall after an undercut start.

It was my friend's only font 7b tick and he is 5'3" or thereabouts.   

[SA Chris]

New Jerusalem

Depending if you are Paul B's height or mine.

[tomtom]

New Jerusalem

Depending if you are Paul B's height or mine.

Exactly - perfect for the shorter climber..

[LucyB]

I think I agree with JB  not sure that anything is easier if you're short.
You can certainly climb to your strengths though, and I do love watching tall people on bunched-up sit starts 

I found there wasn't much difference for me in adding the sit start to Brad's Arete at Eagle Tor; unfortunately we can't climb there anymore.

I quite like Sloper Traverse (Grand Theft Area, Stanage) as it seems to fit my frame quite well (also 5' 3"), but would probably be shot by purists as I do tend to crimp the slopers!

Apart from that, I would probably just aim for whatever problems inspire you and forget about the height thing. There are so many other variables to consider that will make something feel hard/ easy for the grade.

[granticus]

But he was awesome.  That short guy in cuvier.

Sounds like J P Bouvier to me...

La Le Denmat...?

Short but not that short.

Victorian Over Mantle - apparently easier for shorties but not in your grade range...  Zippy's footless traverse at the Secret Garden. 

[Sloper]

A friend of mine is 6' 8" (with a plus 3 ape index) and the reason he claims to be a punter is because he's too tall to climb hard.  Ok to be fair he's used other excuses too, but as far as it goes, who can call bluff?

Personally being of limited altitude I'll take any excuse I can.

[webbo]

At Brimham rocks around the black chipper area there is an arete called Parrapa the Rapper which is 7b according to the Total Climbing Yorkshire Grit bouldering guide. I can't find the problem on yorkshiregrit.com or ukclimbing but it's definitely in the book and has a very bunched up move to get your feet on the wall after an undercut start.

It was my friend's only font 7b tick and he is 5'3" or thereabouts.

having seen my tall mates do this,it is not easier if you are short.its a steve rhodes/chris sowden problem neither of them are midgets.

[nai]

Have to agree that most problems aren't significantly more difficult or easier but there are a few that fall into these categories I think.

I find this method of doing Piss much easier than all the faff of matching but taller friends are unable to get their foot up so this could be one that fits the bill:



The Nose has a reputation for being harder for the short but using the sidepull levels the playing field somewhat, may even tip it in our favour:



On the business boulder Jerry's Finish seems to have a foothold in just the right place and also Rose... seems to have better footholds at just the right height.

I didn't have a problem with New Jerusalum either, could have flashed it if I'd paid more attention to my feet, had to settle for second go.

[fatdoc]

reach on the rose is mighty tricky if you are little, I think you're just rather good.

anyone can get their feet up on piss, if they have the strength to hold the finger slopers with ease, nice one.