[Andy B]

A couple of questions about stuff at Porth Ysgo:

Firstly does anyone know what the sitter to problem 7 in area 2 (in the bouldering guide) is? This is the back left arete of the next block to the right (facing inland) of The Ysgo Flange?

Secondly does Anaconda climb up the left or right side of the blunt arete that it follows, and what is the other side?

Cheers

[cofe]

Anaconda is the steep side.

[Drew]

Beat me to it Cofe.

Secondly does Anaconda climb up the left or right side of the blunt arete that it follows, and what is the other side?

Looks like he's on the right.

[Andy B]

Nice one. Has anyone done anything up the left side then?

[fatneck]

Firstly does anyone know what the sitter to problem 7 in area 2 (in the bouldering guide) is? This is the back left arete of the next block to the right (facing inland) of The Ysgo Flange?

I asked Panton whether it had been done a while ago and he said;

"...this line has been done by a few people. I asked Jon Ratcliffe and he confirmed that it had been done at around V7/7a+ish."

Hope that's useful...

[Johnny Brown]

Pretty sure I've done that left version of Anaconda after failing miserably on the right. 'Twas a while ago though, my memory is vague...

[Andy B]

Firstly does anyone know what the sitter to problem 7 in area 2 (in the bouldering guide) is? This is the back left arete of the next block to the right (facing inland) of The Ysgo Flange?

I asked Panton whether it had been done a while ago and he said;

"...this line has been done by a few people. I asked Jon Ratcliffe and he confirmed that it had been done at around V7/7a+ish."

Hope that's useful...

Nice one. That grade sounds about right. It's a decent problem that deserves a name. A few nice big moves into the stander.

[Andy B]

Pretty sure I've done that left version of Anaconda after failing miserably on the right. 'Twas a while ago though, my memory is vague...

I did both the right and the left lines, and thought that they were reasonably similar in grade and quality, although I did the right hand one second and conditions were improving as the sun dropped off the face. You could start further left again and go out to the left arete sooner, which would make things easier. The left hand line felt like a separate problem rather than a different version of Anaconda.

For the right hand line I started right hand on a nice nubbin pinch and left hand on the arete, and went straight up, left always on the arete and right on sidepulls in the face, to top out at the highest point of the boulder.

For the left hand line I started left hand on the base of a diagonal slopey ramp, right hand on a sidepull crimp right of the arete, and went straight up, using some really nice holds, to rock onto the slab using a pod in a high hairline crack.

Both of these lines are the best problems I have done at Porth Ysgo. Top quality.

[BenF]

Andy's descriptions are pretty much spot on there as far as I remember.  As he says, Anaconda stays on the right of the arete, using the small sidepulls and going direct to the slopey-ish top out. 

The lefthand line is a sit start to Mutant Child, starting at the same place as Anaconda but heading up and left from the large sidepull on the arete to the slopers as per the start of Mutant Child, before returning back right along flatties to the top of the block where Anaconda finishes.

All top notch problems.

[Andy B]

Good knowledge, but wasn't Anaconda touted as the sit start to Mutant Child?

[BenF]

It was yeah.  However the sitter already existed and is described in Panton's bible (First Testament). 

I guess Anaconda is really a direct sitstart that straightens Mutant Child out a bit (i.e. doesn't do the really cool left heel up high, move left then back right bit of the stand up).  Also, Anaconda gives more opportunities to land in that minging mud slime stuff too, which is always worth doing...

[Pantontino]

A couple of questions about stuff at Porth Ysgo:

Firstly does anyone know what the sitter to problem 7 in area 2 (in the bouldering guide) is? This is the back left arete of the next block to the right (facing inland) of The Ysgo Flange?

Secondly does Anaconda climb up the left or right side of the blunt arete that it follows, and what is the other side?

Cheers

BenF has covered the Anaconda stuff admirably, but did you not see this topo in a recent news item:

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=467

V6 or V7, not sure?