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Walk on By, Curbar
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Walk on By, Curbar
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cofe
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Walk on By, Curbar
October 22, 2010, 11:23:19 am
Anyone got first-hand, or reliable second-hand, experience of Walk on By since one of the key holds deteriorated? Are we talking possible 8a now?
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carlisle slapper
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#1 Re: Walk on By, Curbar
October 22, 2010, 11:36:08 am
Caff did it last winter as a RH version and said it was 7c that way and very good still, I think the original is unrepeated since the crumble, probably not worth guessing at a grade until its been stabilised and the moves done at least.
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Andy B
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#2 Re: Walk on By, Curbar
October 22, 2010, 11:37:54 am
Quick, someone do it before Dan or we'll have another classic 7b!
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cofe
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#3 Re: Walk on By, Curbar
October 22, 2010, 11:38:43 am
Ta. What's Caff 7c in Font grades? I need to get up there and have a close look/go.
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Johnny Brown
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#4 Re: Walk on By, Curbar
October 22, 2010, 12:18:07 pm
What holds does this right-hand version use? At 7c its easier than the original... perhaps it is the original?
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Andy B
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#5 Re: Walk on By, Curbar
October 22, 2010, 12:26:30 pm
Perhaps it's not 7c.
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carlisle slapper
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#6 Re: Walk on By, Curbar
October 22, 2010, 01:10:54 pm
caff 7C is a toughy, it assumes that all holds are the same size if you make a crimp fist, so there may not be any holds, you just have to make some fists up and slightly right of the first move. Atleast it certainly won't have been a dyno.
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Johnny Brown
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#7 Re: Walk on By, Curbar
October 22, 2010, 01:35:00 pm
I was there when he pulled the hold off. Never seen anyone try to get so much from so little.
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Bonjoy
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#8 Re: Walk on By, Curbar
October 22, 2010, 01:49:38 pm
Think he mentioned doing a move by taking a hold normally used for the right hand with the left hand. Something about pinching something... Sounded like it mostly used the same holds so is probably now the easiest way up the same line. Re-climbing the old sequence, if possible, would seem to be irrelevant now.
I think climbing a touch right also makes the landing a fair bit worse. Shame.
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cofe
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#9 Re: Walk on By, Curbar
October 22, 2010, 02:04:50 pm
I can only think he took that RH edge you stretch to at the start (the one with the slightly deeper bit for one finger) with his LH and cranked off it?
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Ru
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#10 Re: Walk on By, Curbar
October 22, 2010, 02:39:31 pm
Or took the high pinch with his left. I'm glad it goes for shorties anyway. I kept falling off it the old way.
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El Mocho
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#11 Re: Walk on By, Curbar
October 22, 2010, 05:01:59 pm
I had a session on this just after Caff did it and got to the last move which was according to caff the easiest. I fell off here about 5 times. I cant remember the sequence (I do have it on video camera tape but don't have the technology to get it on computer, along with some footage of Superbloc)
My attempt at remembering what you do:
big stretch to get 1 finger pocket crimp thing with L (what you normally get with R?) go out R to sidepull pinch. Lh to crimpy sidepull pinch (on original line? used to get with r hand?) rh up to a higher sidepull (I think what I needed to do was make a fist here) then lh to good crimp just below the ledge (missing this was my high point)
I had 2 mats and the fall was fine, feels a bit funny doing the first move out r but you do fall ok and more mats would make it completely fine.
To me it felt easier than the original version but I havn't done either and this one is probably less reachy.
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cofe
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#12 Re: Walk on By, Curbar
October 22, 2010, 05:08:50 pm
good knowledge. thanks ben. the first few moves you describe make sense if it's a slightly to the right line now.
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