[shark]

Goal: Get onsight fit for Arco at end of month
Weight: 11.2-5

M.
T. PM. Did comprehensive workout offset pullups, deadhangs weights etc.
W.
T. AM. 3 goes at Toilet. Arms felt tired. Under the weather. Got incut hold twice. third go fingers uncurled on first crux. Tweaked my back again. Eve. Back seized up and Cold took hold went to bed at 8pm
F. AM. Slept badly due to bad back - couldnt tie shoe laces in morning. Went to new physio at lunchtime. Seems some of my efforts at improving posture have backfired. Taught how to sit down and stand up ! Unlearning and relearning required.
S. Son's birthday treat. Drove a load of kids to Sherwood Forset to do aerial walkways rope swings etc through the trees (Go Ape). Great fun. Back a lot better and Cold on the wane.
S.

Shitty week. Heading back to the Tor Tuesday morning and Physio Weds evening. Will start doing endurance circuits on my home board in prepartion for trip to Arco with family Lee and family Duncan Disorderly.

[Barratt]

Sod not climbing, it makes me a grumpy fucker!

This week I've just been doing easy circuits, trying to tick over and maintain a bit of fitness. That said, tried a few pinks down the works today whilst trying to avoid the masses and it felt so good to be trying something reasonably difficult.

I'm a happy chappy 

Next week more of the same, bit of rehab and pick back up the weights, running etc.

[Barratt]

Sod not climbing, it makes me a grumpy fucker!

This week I've just been doing easy circuits, trying to tick over and maintain a bit of fitness. That said, tried a few pinks down the works today whilst trying to avoid the masses and it felt so good to be trying something reasonably difficult.

I'm a happy chappy 

Next week more of the same, bit of rehab and pick up the weights, running etc.

[Andy F]

Given the recent deluges, it looks like the Lime routing season has come to an end, so I'm, changing my focus to bouldering. New goal - at least Font 7B+ this winter, if not harder.

Mon - rest
Tues -Volume bouldering at AW, touches and ladders on the Campus board.
Wed - Fingerboard, repeaters only, 30 mins
Thurs - Fingerboard, pull-ups only, 30 mins
Fri/Sat - family/rest
Sun - Rock-over (aka the Prison Block) in Manchester. First visit, won't be the last. Impressed with the place. Set a 3 attempt limit on every problem. Did most of the reds (V4-6) and the whites (V4-5) first or second go, still some to go back for, a fair few problems on the comp wall as well. Didn't try anything hard as I was there for the volume. Beasted after 2 and 3/4 hours.

In the coming weeks I really need to get into a bouldering project. Bring on the Cave.

[Muenchener]

STG: 6a os 6a+ os
MTG: 6b os, (1-3-5)
LTG: 7a rp; classic big Vs / VIs at local crags (Kaisergebirge, Wetterstein etc.) e.g. West Face Totenkirchl

M: rest. Still coughing & feeling rough from last week's cold, despite decent performance at the wall at the weekend.
T:  ditto. Little bit of shoulder & core stuff in the evening.
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. Good evening. Flashed another 6a and onsighted a 6a+, but am not counting it as an stg reached because it was only a silly little 9 metre thing on the kids' wall (*) Tried a longer 6a+ but burned out around ten metres.
T: Bike to work, ca 25km. A few sets of pressups & planks
F: Bike to work, 31.51km (I just downloaded a gps tracker for my phone) (Wanted to go to gym for weights / bouldering at work, but colleague sick so didn't have time)
S: Bike 29.68 km (shopping). Weighted pullups, handstands, pressups, stretching.
S: Bouldering, Boulderwelt. In which we learn, with little surprise, that two months onsighting straightforward routes does not develop strength or problem-solving ability. In the summer when Boulderwelt opened and before I was injured, I ticked the font 5c/6a circuit in two sessions. Now they have set a completely new circuit on which I get spanked, completing a grand total of four problems.
Bike to & from, 27.71 km.
Step-ups w/heavy rucksack, 35 minutes. Will have to start making these even harder with big boots soon: snowboard touring season is coming.

(*) Subsequent study of the Thalkirchen routes database reveals that I climb like a girl this was the women's junior qualifying route for a local comp.

[nik at work]

Andy you're easily capable of 7B+, aim higher.

8b+, 8B
STG: 8 in Font at end of the month

M - awful board session, very short did nothing still tired and sore from Sunday
T - better board session with GCW
W - nothing
T - Board session, did project problem and new PB on the circuit.
F - nothing, ate lots
S - childrens swim party in the afternoon then foolishly decided to go on the board in the evening. Skin softened by swimming split in an epic way on my left middle finger, not good.
S - looked at my finger a lot, felt sad

I've upped the board sessions this week, and it appears to be working well, or at least it was until Saturdays tip-rip and then yesterday I strained my lower back furniture shifting. Bah! Oh well a week of working the weak fingers on the left hand I suppose.

[ummagumma]

STG: finger strength.
MTG: 7a in font End Oct (or anyplace else would be also nice)
LTG:

M - Impinged Nerve at back of Shoulder. No climbing.
T - Fingerboard - Repeaters.
W - Shoulder sore. No climbing.
T - Shoulder sore. No climbing.
F -Shoulder sore. No climbing.
S - Bouldering outdoors. Nothing really hard.
S - Bouldering outdoors. Nothing really hard.

Shoulder is a bit iffy. Must keep stretching it. Shit week.

[Falling Down]

STG: OS 2 E3's and Boulder Fb 7a+ by end Oct & pass my Gym Jones seminar/course (Sub 7min 2k Row + various weight tests)
MTG’s (End 2010) – Boulder Font 7b.
VLTG’s – Redpoint 8b, Boulder 8a, Onsight E6 drop weight to 11.5 st.

M - 50 pressups and 20 pistols and some squats
T - Gym: 10 min row then intense PE workout (pullups, chest presses, OH squats, ball slams) 10 min row row to warmdown
W - Aberdeen Wall - Campussing and fingerboard for 1:30 hrs
T - Nowt
F - Nowt - Felt like I was coming down with a cold.
S - Bouldering @ Stanage to shift cold. Slipped off last hard move on Green Traverse. Did some nice problems up on the edge proper.
S - Hungover. Gentle 45 min run, KB workout and core

Another really long and hard week at work so was quite pleased to get some training in.   First time on a campus board for a few years so that was interesting.

This week: Started a 1 day week booze regime with the wife so should see some weight come off and start sleeping better.  With the change in weather I'm revising my goals to focus on bouldering and trad.

[chris05]

M: BM repeaters and max hangs, core (500) & elbow weights
T: Felt ill so rested
W: BM warm up (3*30 moves foot on), max hangs, cool down (3*30 moves foot on), run 4m, core (450) & elbow weights
T: 60 length swim (crawl)
F: rest
S: bouldering at cratcliffe & RHS, feeling close to the cave right-hand
S: 7m trail and road run & core (410)

Its been a farily good week, rubbish milleage again due to sore calf but its hopefully improving. I have been experimenting with max hangs on the BM and have been pleasently suprised. Felt good to be out on Sat although skin got sore very quickly. 

[rginns]

WEll, if I'm going to get anything done, I thought I'd at least try to put it down in writing...if nothing more than to shame me into doing more...
STG:get into a proper training regime
MTG: Broughton 6a+, West View V6, Lancashire font 7a
LTG: become a beast. and erm, all the above if I don't do 'em in the medium term...

M: Felt increasingly rubbish, brief session on the project, demoralised...
T: Ill, stayed at home with horrible lurgy coming on.
W: just about staggered into work
T: Hacking death cough starts
F: death cough, throat doom, nothing done
S: eat curries, drink beer, felt marginally better
S: West View in the afternoon, flashed V4, felt stronger than I have previously.

This week has mostly been rubbish due to illness, however I've started to feel a lot better in the last day or two, so back on the training horse. Or something. Was pleased at the WV session, although Vickers may have done an easy set...
I think if I can shift half a stone and recruit some strength on the fingerboard, the goals may be doable

[Luthor]

STG: Climb some new problems, train harder, don't get injured!

Mon: Busy

Tue: (Works) Warm up. 15 min Campus board (1:3:5:7 ladders and 1:4:7 attempts (50%)). 30min on board.

Wed: (Works) Warm up. 45min board. warm down on juggy probs on comp wall.

Thur: (Works) Warm up and tried new pink circuit - felt tired and got shut down. Sacked it off early

Fri: Rest.

Sat: Rest + few push ups

Sun: Busy/Rest + few push ups

Realised I'm incredible bad at push ups, having rarely done them for years so aiming to do a few reps on a regular basis to help balance out arms and shoulders.

Feeling quite tired this week so planned a few extra rest days and lighter sessions next week...

Lex

[Andy F]

Andy you're easily capable of 7B+, aim higher.

Hence the 7B+ minimum target. I'm hoping for harder, but one step at a time. Achieveable, realistic goals.

[Probes]

STG - tick as much as can on yorkshire whitestuff before the yr end.... ? yeh right.
MTG - Get power back up V??'s, and get hill fit for winter.
LLTG - Give up fags again, Another day in paradise, Brandl Hasse, Scot VII, Cry freedom

M - darwen run route 3 x1 13km 69mins
T - boulder darwen (board) 2 1/2hrs, monster session, did all last years problems in 1 session apart from the projects, 2 x 60 move pend circuit.
W - darwen run route 2 x1 10.5km 51mins
T - westview - 1.5hr bouldering linking problems for pend. 20mins campusboard
F -
S - Longridge, trav to top break, then back, 1hour pottering. Feeling really good on trav, felt on if it was dry, must b the running? 
S - 2 hrs boulder darwen, 20-40  move circuits x 10, fucked!

[chris_j_s]

Aims for 2010: rp 7b+ sport, o/s 6c+ sport, 7A+ boulder.
STG: Keep to new training plan in order to be ready for Kalymnos.

M: Rest.
T: Circuits at Ingleton. Managed to complete my hard circuit here for the first time - completed twice then failed on the 3rd time round. Also 3x 6c+ circuit and 3x my slightly modified easier circuit (7a/+ ish?)
W: Repeaters.
T: Circuits/Bouldering at Ingleton. Did 4 or 5 hard problems (max 3 attempts) then 3 x hard circuit, 2 x 'easier' circuit, 4 x 6c+ circuit. Thought I'd test my recovery skills on less difficult ground so did 6b circuit 3 times without stepping off taking an enforced 1.5 - 2 mins rest hanging on the starting jug.
F: Rest
S: Walk in the lakes.
S: Routes at Kendal. Good session - warm up, 6b, 6b+, 6c, 6c, 6c, 6c. Was then invited to preview the first stage of their expansion. Did a few hard-ish problems there. The new room with cave is a nice addition and I was impressed with their training room so far - will be a good facility when it's completed (next week or two I think).

Fly out to Kalymnos this Saturday so timing of completing my project circuit could not have been better. Will probably fit in another one, maybe two sessions this week then I'm away for two weeks so unless I can find Internet access I won't be able to post on the next two power club threads.

[nik at work]

Andy you're easily capable of 7B+, aim higher.

Hence the 7B+ minimum target. I'm hoping for harder, but one step at a time. Achieveable, realistic goals.

Fuck that shit, aim high fail big is my motto

And Ginns you've easily got the beans for 7A, just get out there and do one you plum.

[Nibile]

easy but good week.
mon - rest.
tue - rest.
wed - rest.
thu - rest.
fri - beastmaker. one arm dead hangs, tests. found big gains, especially on the 35° and the three fingers small slots. managed to hang the 45° for first time.
sat - bouldering. did a few 7a's, failed to repeat a 7c but almost did my project sit start to "islero". psyched.
sun - sport climbing. tired from the bouldering, did a 7b twice then two goes on the 8b. I didn't do it. sadly I found out that it's not a power route, but an endurance route. 26 moves are a lot for me. anyway it's good to keep the stimulus high.
KEEP THE FUCKING FAITH.

[chillax]

STG: Boulder 7b this winter, climb E3 before next summer
MTG: E4 before winter 2011
LLTG: E7, boulder 8a

Mon: sleep
Tues: pullups, pushups and core. Horrendously weak on all three compared to the start of the summer. Lots of work to do.
Wed: Annalecka in wicklow. Punted around on some uber-rough 6b's and tore some holes in my skin. Soloed a couple of easy lines. Went to UCD wall for sociable bouldering. Pottered about and got nicely wrecked.
Thurs: Knackered
Fri: Drive to the north.
Sat: Fair Head. Shunt up a wet HVS to warm up. Seconded a couple of stern E3's. Strenuous. Nearly get splatted by falling blocks. Exciting.
Sun: Fair Head. Second an E1 and an E3. Shunt an E1 a VS and mess about on the crux of an E3 I've seconded before. Tiring.

Not a bad week, and surprisingly good weather at the Head this weekend. Good to get back into the swing of things after 2 months essentially on the couch. Still up north for another couple of days. Heading over to Donegal tomorrow to try some stuff I've had an eye on since the start of the summer. Hope I have the energy....and my climbing partner has some extra big gear! :-)

[andybfreeman]

Goals as before

M - mixed session at TCA. Good on problems but poor on circuits
T - better session at TCA, completed new (hard) 7a+ circuit
W - short power session t TCA folling late finish at work
Th - work do after work so rest. managed to avoid heavy drinking
F - rest
Sa - problems sessiona at TCA. did all new greens, either flashes or 2nd/3rd go
Su - more problems at tCA, feeling a bit weak

Off to Australia this week for a friend's wedding. Week long  will probably mean i feel shit when i do get to climb but have a planned week and half to explore the bouldering of gara gorge etc so hopefully will be able to shake off the fog of overindulagence and get some decent problems done

[aly]

Hi,
I'm a newbie on this but figured I need some kind of structure to try and get strong (or should that be less weak?) 

STG: do a Ft 7B+
MTG (over the winter): long held ambition to boulder 7C, would be great to do a proper F8a rather than just climbing long ones really fast.

Mon: Bouldering down the wall, finger feeling better on crimpy stuff, had to make up problems as only low grade stuff set
Tues: nothing
Weds: Wall session, an hours bouldering then couple of hours on routes (8m routes, not steep).  Power enduro not too bad, plenty to work on though.
Thurs: nothing
Fri: Bouldering at Stoke wall, very impressed with it.  Hour or so on the Moon 45, some longer routes in the cave at end of session
Sat: Bouldering, feeling beasted from Fri so mainly easy slabby things, had 4 goes at T-crack, got soooo close 
Sun: Tor was mingy, went to Foundry.  Couple of routes, then 2.5 hours on the 40.  Holds feeling bigger than when I lived in Shef which was nice, finger holding up not too badly.  Shoulder now feeling a bit weird, might give it a couple of days.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals: F7c in Arco (will settle for 7b+ tho..... what's that about aiming high Nik?), Font 7B+ this grit season, F8a by 2014.

M: Stretching..
T: PE circuits and foot on campussing @ the works - 4 x 6c @ 4 mins rest, 4 x 35+ moves @ 4 mins rest mid-small rungs.
W: Cycle to work.
T: PE circuits and foot on campussing @ the works - 3 x 6c 1 x 6c-7a+ combo (6c+ish) @ 4 mins rest, 2 x 35+ moves @ 4 mins rest mid-small rungs, 2 x 35+ moves @ 4 mins rest small rungs.
F: Cycle to work.
S: Nowt.
S: PE circuits and foot on campussing @ the works - 2 x 6c 1 x 6c-7a+ combo (6c+ish) 1 x 7a+ @ 4 mins rest, 4 x 35+ moves @ 4 mins rest small rungs.

Good week. Noticeable progress in a really short space of time.

This week: Continue.. Up intensity, reduce rest... Slowly 

:D

[nai]

October goals - finger strength, PE
2010 goals - 7C, E4

M - max hangs, lockoffs, weighted pullups.  Tweaked a finger slightly - fool
t -
w - slight cold, tweaked finger and good forecast helped me resist temptation to train.
T - good Plantation session - Crozzle Arete, an old nemesis, done eventually; Green Slap in a few goes; Glasshour Left Hand on sight (unless it's eliminate?) and a few quick repeats.
F - Repeaters, finger felt ok but it was heavily taped.

Feel like I'm going ok, now done a few 7A/+s in quick time which is very pleasing at this stage.  Like most I've switched into grit/bouldering mode but retain hope of a late lime window so want to continue with PE training too.

[nik at work]

Goals: F7c in Arco (won't settle for 7b+), Font 7C this grit season, F8b by 2014.

Fixed that for ya...

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals: F7c in Arco (won't settle for 7b+), Font 7C this grit season, F8b by 2014.

Fixed that for ya...

Looking like another season (lifetime) of dismal failure then..

Cheers

[Andy F]

Andy you're easily capable of 7B+, aim higher.

Hence the 7B+ minimum target. I'm hoping for harder, but one step at a time. Achieveable, realistic goals.

Fuck that shit, aim high fail big is my motto

I guess you could say I've settled into mid-life mediocrity...

[duncan]

Wed: Annalecka in wicklow.

Sounds challenging



STG: As before
MTG: 7b rp March; E5 os June 2011.
LTG: climb more, see less of physio.

M
T
W
T
F - Shoulder stability stuff
S - 15 mins gentle ARC-type pottering at The Arch.
S

Shoulder sore from previous over-enthusiasm but seems to be settling fairly quickly. 

Question now is whether to continue with long-term plan of bouldering over the winter to address major weakness or start a little fitness work for trip to Red Rocks in a month's time...