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UKB Power Club Week33 (27th Sept-3rd Oct) (Read 15115 times)

GCW

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Short term goals
Do my local cross country (5.8km) in under 30 minutes (big ask I think)
Do charity 10km in November, preferably under 55 minutes.

Medium Term goals
Climb font 7c in 2010 (a bit ambitious maybe).
Lose (almost) a stone initially (aim for 83kg)- also a bit ambitious!
Do my Winter Hill run in under 43:12 (average 10kmh).
Finish off my remaining esoteric Lancs Quarry projects.


M-  Work.
T-  WoB session, felt weak and very tired.
W-   Ran 10km in 54:30.  Felt OK.
T- Work.
F-  Work.  Stayed up late drinking wine and baking cakes for Blob 1's party.
S-  Kids party.
S-  Work, then bicycle shopping.

Had a drink each day, so Monday weigh in of 85.3kg.  Weather's shite too.

k2ted

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stg - try and stop myself doing too much n recover a2 fully, think how to weigh less than 14 stone.
mtg - learn to not get a2 injuries all the time...
ltg - boulder v6 consistently, flash 7a sport.

mon - rest
tues - rest
weds - fingerboard (open handed only) did pretty good.
thurs - rest
fri - rest
sat - board sesh, avoiding crimpy stuff
sun - rearranged holds but ended up doing loadsa slopey stuff then got pi55ed off as a2 bit sore..

cheque

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STG: pull finger out and regularly climb E-grades on grit. NEW for winter: boulder 6c+.
MTG: do same at mountains/ seaside
LTG: be good enough for 2012 US trad trip

Mon: Castle Rock, Thirlmere. Too knackered from previous two days for anything hard (obviously endurance/ recovery needs work, oparticulalry in terms of dealing with walk-ins).
Tue: Lakes wet. Leave early for back-up destination: Brimham (first visit). Looks ace but it's dripping.
Wed: Back to work after trip: ouch. Nothing.
Thur: Yoga class in evening. First at 'advanced' level. Psyched to keep up with rest of class, but not by lack of DFBWDY. Feels great afterwards. 
Fri: Find out local wall is 'closed until further notice'.  :( Nothing.
Sat: Work. Nothing.
Sun: Raining and wall closed. Nothing.

Almost complete lack of training and climbing this week. Time to think has made me realise that lack of sport and bouldering participation is definitely holding back my trad. Buying my own mat this month to fix. Hopefully the wall will open again soon, too...

webbo

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Mon.bouldering rockcity nothing new but repeated everything 1st go.
Tue.find out house sale as gone tits up again drink lots.
Wed.bouldering rockcity struggling get a workout though.
Thu.leeds wall repeat all the reds i did last week first go.managed a swirls i failed on last week do lots in the end.
Fri.knackered.
Sat.struggling to motivate myself.going shopping with the missus.out on my bike 3 hrs.
Sun.oakland wall.boiling hot struggle a lot but get a v6 and a couple of v5s done.great training if i ever find a crag inside a sauna.

now we aren't moving house in the near future i need to get some goals sorted out.


petejh

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Goal - do my first VIII, 8a, 8A, E8, in 2010.
At - IX, 8a, 7C, E5.
Goal for October: headpoint My Piano, work High Life. Start the fitness for winter.

m. Tried moves on Jerry's Roof for the first time. Very cool, want to go back and try it some more.
t. Cave, made progress on Highlife. Can hold the slap for the sloper, can't move foot.
w. Messed around on Stiff Upper Lip, greasy.
t. Pen Trwyn. Did a few low 7's and an E4.
f. Pen Trwyn. Played on Stiff upper Lip, best hard roue I've ever been on. Did Tomorrow People, very soft 7c. Watched JR take the lyon's share.
s. Nowt, cold.
s. Nowt, cold.

Need to focus on getting back to nesscliffe, it's so easy just pootling along ticking good stuff.


Joe

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STG – (recovery from knee cap dislocation) Finger board sessions 3 times a week, back top roping/leading during November, December – climb 7a+ circuit at Gollum’s Cave, Bristol.
MTG – Climb 7b, (House Burning Down/Bitter and Twisted) on-sight 7a
LTG – Climb 7c, climb 8a within 3 years (from 6th September 2010)

M – Nothing
T - Finger board session
W- Nothing
T – Nothing
F –Nothing
S – Nothing
S – Finger board

Massively uninspiring week to look at. Individual sessions pretty good, but not nearly enough. I'd have been relatively happy if I'd gone thursday as well. Not going to get weaker like this, but not going to get stronger, and if I want to actually climb this route in december I need to get stronger. Also need to avoid falling into the trap of totally losing stamina. Hopefully I won't need to think about this too much, just make sure I do start toproping/leading in November, without losing the finger boarding.

Monolith

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Nada all week since been ill and insomnia is back. Week prior I missed to document but had two sessions. Poor. Will be making amends this week!!!

Charles

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Missed last week as I was in Mallorca. I was in Mallorca this week too, cos my life is just that awesome!

Monday - El Calo de Betlem. Onsighting up to F6b+
Tuesday - Complete rest.
Wednesday - Sa Gubia - Sexo Debil (F6b+). Amazing 5 pitch route. Then did some single pitching.
Thursday - Ermita de Betlem - Onsighting up to F6b+.
Friday - Active rest -  did Albahida at Sa Gubia. 250m of F3/4
Saturday - Sa Gubia. Single pitch onsighting up to F6c.
Sunday - Port De Soller. Onsighting up to F6c. Had my go at onsighting 7b. Tried Phantomas, juggy steep cave climbing then a tricky headwall. Failed on the headwall, went to top and redpointed first go. Goal failed. 


Didn't climb as hard as I would have liked or expected to. The first few days were poor tactically (choosing crags in full 27 degree heat) and I didn't seem to get into the rhythm of the trip until two thirds of the way through.

There is no such thing as failure, only delayed success. Going to Costa Blanca on 22nd October. F7b onsight will be mine! And yes, I am obstinately optimistic in the face of poor performance.

 

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