[shark]

Goal: Oak. 10,000 8a nu points
Weight: 11.2-5

M. Foundry with boys. Didnt mean to climb but bought some boots and wanted to lay with them.
T.
W.PM. Malham. Grizzly day. Undercut by 3rd bolt wet. Did some links. Left in rain feeling depressed.
T. Stilll felt down. PM. Did comprehensive workout offset pullups, deadhangs weights etc. Tweaked back doing deadlifts
F. Still felt glum then realised I was actually a bit ill which was kind of cheering.
S. Still felt fluey. PM. Got talked into going out on grit by son (where did it go so right  ) Couple of hours at Stanage in lovely conditions - did a great little problem - Bunny Wailer
S. Tor (as Oak was still wet) 6 good redpoint attempts on the Toilet (4 thru crux and beyond) but no cigar

The optimism of last week seems a long time ago. Hopefully Oak will dry up but I'm not holding my breath.
 

[tomtom]

Missed a few weeks.. ho hum.. back on the wagon now..
STG 7B+ LTG 8A  dream on...

M: nothing
T: Plantation. Determinded to get Green Traverse ticked... #fail had a good afternoon pottering around trying deliverance traverse, bullworker etc...
W: Workshop, breakout meetings, brainstorming...
T: Same shit as W
F: Same shit as W and T, but in a different place..
S: Up early, at Plantation at 8:30 to take advantage of the great conditions. Green Traverse #fail, Deliverance #fail, Deliverance Trav #fail Bumped into Lagers, had a great morning being shown probs I'd never noticed (hourglass looks good..)... Went to Higgar Tor with Lagers (first time) did an ace 6b, failed on a 7a+ arete (forgotten name looked ace) & limped home at 1:30. Trashed.
Su: Jiggered after Sat 

edit: I would like to clarify that my use of the word Jiggered refers to the tired definition (2 below):

jiggered [ˈdʒɪgəd]
adj (postpositive)
1. Informal damned; blowed I'm jiggered if he'll get away with it
2. (sometimes foll by up) Scot and northern English dialect tired out
3. [probably euphemism for buggered; see bugger]

[205Chris]

STGs: Off to font week after next. Break into the 7s and do L'aerodynamite.

MTGs: Grit bouldering / highballing. Long list of peak 7b - 7cs and get to North Yorkshire more.

LTGs: Something that starts with an 8.

M: Board session in garage + some core work
T: Repeaters on Beastmaker
W: Nada
T: Nada
F: Warm up at Trackside boulder + then head to try Ben's Wall + Great White. Both seem nails. Drive round to Higgar, repeat P*ss and then fall off the last move of Sh*t twice before it starts raining. Annoying.
S: Warm up at Burbage South then ticked the Alliance - amazing problem. Went to Gardoms and fell off the last move of Mark's Roof (a strange feeling of deja vu from yesterday.........). Got the consolation ticks of Soft on the G & Perfect Day Direct.
S: Walking on Kinder. Soloed the downfall which is probably the most fun I've had at the crag in ages!

Won't be around to post next week as I'll be in Font but doubt I'll be doing much this week other than watching the Real Thing / L'Etranger & Between the Trees and repeating to myself "I am Jerry Moffat"

[ummagumma]

Chris, best of luck in Font. I over shortly so keep a few problems uncrushed!


STG: finger strength, core.
MTG: 7a in font End Oct (or anyplace else would be also nice)
LTG:

M - 0
T - Fingerboard. Short Session. Slopers and 3 finger small edges were order of the day.
W - Bouldering Outdoors. Ticked a nice 6b+ that beat me previously.
T - 0
F - Bouldering Outdoors. Amazing day. Went on a rampage. My MTG goal was to do a 7A in font as I didn't think I could achieve it between then and now. Well I bagged one.  It was tough working it but felt easy on ascent. Strange. Also climbed other quality problems and failed on a class problem called 'Last Minute' 7A. I'm going back for that one. 
S - Short Fingerboard session.
S - Indoor Bouldering. Felt tired. Worked on sloper for font prep. Stop early due to a little shoulder pain.

Great week. A big YYFY for climbing my first 7A. My MTG was to climb a 7A in font so the goal still stands.

Had a little sharp shoulder pain in left shoulder so stopped early today. Last thing I want before font is getting inj... - can't say the word. 

[Muenchener]

STG: F6a os f6a+ os
MTG: F6b os, 1-3-5
LTG: F7a rp; classic big Vs / VIs at local crags (Kaisergebirge, Wetterstein etc.) e.g. West Face Totenkirchl

M: Oktoberfest
T:  Bike to work - about 25km round trip. Yoga
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. Not a particularly good session, tired after only a few routes. Plus (stupidly): campusing afterwards. Wanted to get on a standard campus board and see if it's the same spacing as a beach ladder. It is. 1-2-4.
T: off work with a cold. Feeling crap. Possibly the cause of yesterday's weak performance at the wall, or possibly I was just weak.
F: ditto
S: Yoga. Wall, Gilching - family session with wife, friends & kids, so own climbing focused on quality over quantity. Still, two onsights at current limit (UIAA VI =~ 5c), and a couple of slabby/vertical things on smaller holds without any complaint from my finger.
S: Wall, Gilching, proper session with wife. STG reached - f6a onsight. (Yes, I'm counting wall grades as goals reached at the moment, as I rarely get outside. I am where I am, and am content with this for the time being) Frau Muenchener also ticked her project, so everybody happy.

A week that started poorly (training wise) but ended well, with an STG reached.
Three short wall sessions in which I built a nce little grade pyramid to f6a os.
4 x UIAA VI (f5c): 2 os; 1 flash after belaying my mate on it; one rp first real go, after messing about on it for fall training last week.
2 x UIAA VI/VI+ os.
1 x UIAA VI+ = f6a cruised onsight last route Sunday afternoon. yyfy.

[nik at work]

8b+, 8B

STG:  An 8 in Font at the end of October

M - Board, good progress made with project, get an extra move along the circuit (up to two and a half laps - 37 moves)
T - Nothing
W - Nothing
T - Nothing
F - Board, bit more progress on project problem, get another move on the circuit (still two and a half-ish laps - 38 moves now). Also get split in tip of left middle finger, not good.
S - Child herding at Widdop
S - A damp Chapel with Stallion family, fail to redpoint Surfing despite being in the presence of 13 wolf power. Getting close though. Next tine?

Not a bad week, I think Surfer would have gone down if there hadn't been tip split issues and a bit less dampness, but that's probably just excuses. Need to get on with bouldering now for Font power, which looking at this week probably means the board rather than outside but we'll see...

[Barratt]

Only one climb in last week, this killed my shoulder.

GP has referred to "specialist" so may not be lurking in the power club for a while...

[chris05]

M: 5m run, core (400 moves), BM max hangs, elbow exercises, pull-ups & press-ups
T: rest
W: 5m run, core (500 moves), BM max hangs, elbow exercises, pull-ups & press-ups
T: rest
F: nothing (drove to pembroke after work)
S: 2 surf sessions (really nice evening session)& an aborted run after about 2m due to girlfriend being injured
S: am: surfing.  pm: drive home

Bit of a mixed week, I have been making the most of some good swell whilst we have it. Hopefully get back climbing this week. Think I have a small tear in my calf or something as I'm really having to take it easy on the running front.

[petejh]

Goal - do my first VIII, 8a, 8A, E8, in 2010.
At - IX, 8a, 7C, E5.
Goal for rest of September: work My Piano, acquaint myself with High Life.

m. Gogarth. 2nd'd Strand, O/S'd Strike. Felt pumped stupid on Strike and faffed with trying to get the right size gear in, but to be expected for first trad route since (May?)
t. Pen Trwyn. Should have sent Tomorrow People but forgot about the intermediate on top crux, twice. Will go next time. Played on Ironman but wet through roof.
w. nowt.
t. Cave. Tried the moves on Highlife. Feels desperate, naturally.
f. Diamond. Sent Hysteria 1st rp. Soft 7b, maybe hard 7a+, very good. Watched Doylo getting very close to the top, he'll get his project sent soon.
s. Re-equipped Stiff Upper Lip, looking forward to trying it because it looks bloody ace.
s. Nowt.

Feels like a bit of a transition period after Mussel. Nice not to have that monkey on my back any longer. Need to shoulder another one now.

[duncan]

STG: consolidate E3; 6c os; 1 pull-up
MTG: E5 by June 2011; 7b rp by March 2011

M: Toe-on pull-ups, shoulder stability stuff
T: Arch bouldering to V3, trying V4s
W: nothing
T: Arch bouldering - shoulder felt a bit tweaky so easy-ish endurance session.
F: Shoulder stability stuff
S: Offspring's first birthday pt2: family etc; Arch bouldering to V3.
S: Woke with painful neck/shoulder which gradually got worse through the day.  Ooops! 

Overdid the plastic this week with predictable consequences.  Proof of efficacy of new training plan is time to return to climbing.  Hopefully this will be days rather than weeks.

[Luthor]

Only one climb in last week, this killed my shoulder.

GP has referred to "specialist" so may not be lurking in the power club for a while...

Fingers crossed mate...

[Luthor]

STG: Climb some new problems, train harder, don't get injured!

Mon: Busy

Tue: Bouldering at Curbur. Tried early doors a few times but kept greasing off last move, did a few new things (extended warfare/Bad Landing Roof) so good trip..

Wed: Works: warm up, 45min on board, warm down. Didn't feel strong so didn't push it.

Thur: Works: 1hr lunchtime sess with Barratt. Did new blacks and few probs on motherboard to finish

Fri: Rest.

Sat: Bouldering at Burbage N.

Sun: Busy

[GCW]

Short term goals
Do my local cross country (5.8km) in under 30 minutes (big ask I think)

Medium Term goals
Climb font 7c in 2010 (a bit ambitious maybe).
Lose (almost) a stone initially (aim for 83kg)- also a bit ambitious!
Do my Winter Hill run in under 43:12 (average 10kmh).
Finish off my remaining esoteric Lancs Quarry projects.


M-  Work, wine.
T-  Work, bed early.  Alcohol free.
W-  Planned Silverdale trip cancelled due to M6/61/65 gridlock.  Went to a damp local quarry and made some progress on a damp project of mine.  Wine.
T- Did the local cross country 5.8km in a woeful 31:32.  No alcohol as a punishment.
F-  Planned WoB visit shelved when Boss arranged an evening/night round at friends at short notice.  Too much food/beer/wine/whisky (see Saturday).
S-  Kentmere with RGinns.  Not much done due to waterlogged ground and Friday night.  3 pints at a friend's 40th then straight to bed.
S-  Blob herding duties.  Wine whilst cooking/eating a very nice coconut/chicken curry.

Monday weigh in of 83.7kg.  Still need to get back to the regime.

[galpinos]

WE 26/9/10

STG:      Onsight more E2s, Redpoint 7b
MTG:      Onsight E3
LTG:       Font 7c, Onsight E5 & 7b, Redpoint 8a
Current Best:   Font 7b, Onsight E2 & 6c, Redpoint 7a+

M:   
T:   Wall session trying the new red (V4-6) circuit. Shut down on quite a few. Still felt tired from the weekend.
W:   Wall session. Play on the Beast maker with the new footholds. Makes a big difference. Did a few more reds.
T:   Another wall session. Short volume session ticking as many easy problems as possible. Assisted one armers and lockoffs.
F:   40 minute run.
S:   Routing at Stanage with FD. Lead HVS and E1, seconded and E2/3 and failed on Centaur (E1/2). Nails, slippy fist jams aren’t my forte.
S:   Routing at Horseshoe. 6a+, 6b, 6b+, 6b+. Fell off on the last move of the final route staring at the bolt. Poor footwork in general.

Started slow as was still feeling the effects of the stag do last weekend. Good to get outside at the weekend but highlighted lack of outdoor mileage = poor footwork. Need to actually get on an E2 on lead again.

[chris_j_s]

Aims for 2010: rp 7b+ sport, o/s 6c+ sport, 7A+ boulder.
STG: Keep to new training plan in order to be ready for Kalymnos.

M: Rest.
T: Circuits at Ingleton. Really pleased to see the first 'official' circuit set here after I suggested it last week. More of the same please. Did it first go and repeated 4 times so some harder one's would be good Alan    Made progress on my harder circuit and did a couple of hard problems to make sure I haven't lost too much strength doing all this power endurance work.
W: Rest.
T: Routes at Kendal. Onsighting up to 6c. Tried to onsight a 7a too which I fluffed!
F: Repeaters.
S: The depot. Good progress on the 7b circuit, made it to move 32 of 35 (frustratingly close now!) and tried the 7b+ circuit which I got to move 17 on (hard match on 18 - maybe next time?).
S: Castlebergh with unfinished business in mind. A 6c+ which I've had more goes on than any 7a or 7a+ I've done so far. Once I a) stopped worrying about failing at that grade and b) understood that it wasn't that hard, it just required a bit more power endurance it became a target before Kaymnos. Satisfyingly it went first try (5 attempts in total though ). Also did some other routes up to 6c to warm up/warm down.

Two weeks to Kalymnos now and I have one more target route I want to try and flash before I go out there. Hopefully, weather gods permitting, I'll get my chance this coming weekend.

[Nibile]

rocky week, no training!
mon - sport climbing, 1 lap on 7b, 1 lap on 8b.
tue - sport climbing, 1 lap on 7b, 2 laps on 8b, fell two moves from the chain.
wed - rest.
thu - bouldering at amiata top. managed to stick together a few moves on a project.
fri - drove to chironico.
sat - chironico. volume! many problems from 6a to 7b/c. tried souvenir 5 minutes...
sun - chironico. volume! many problems from 6a to 7b+.

comments. well, it's hard to say, I don't feel strong but I know I am not really weak. I need to climb more and to have more time to dedicate to my projects. I really really am clueless at the moment. flashed basically everything up to 7a+ and retroflashed a few 7b/+.
?????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
time will tell, I keep the fucking faith. 

[nai]

october goals - tie in to a rope again, finger strength, PE.
2010 goals - 7C, E4. Sturgeon & 8a probably going to be rollovers now.

M - Works to perform some self-assessment, identified finger strength (I could campus 1-4-7 on big rungs but struggled with 1-2-3 on the smaller ones) & PE (could barely manage the 7a circuit once and the light green (6b?) needed 2 mins rest between reps, failed on the eighth go) as my weakest points.

W - Apparent North to do Hampers Hang then max hangs back at home

F - max hangs & offset pullups

Fingers feel like they're back to where they were in May but my woeful campussing attempts seem to indicate that further improvement is desirable.  While the weather's crap and time is short I'm quite happy to keep hanging but I'll need to address my PE shortcomings at some point too.

[andybfreeman]

Goals as before

M - Met my brother and some westway folks for a session at TCA. worked late so only managed 90mins but ticked off a few more reds and felt pretty good
T - really late night at work so just a bit of weights and fingerboard at home.
W - Another 90 minutes at TCA - mix of circuits and problems
Th - an hour or so of pumpy circuits action
F - wedding so lots of 
Sa - wasted at home. did 10 minutes on the fingerboard before writing the day off completely
Su - cheddar, spacehunter wall. Felt horribly sketched by the exposure and walk in. Failed to get up a 7b+  A fun day socially (3 teams on the ledge at one point!) but a waste climbing wise

Weight heading back up  I've decided that i like eating too much to stick to the sort of restrictive diet that is needed to keep my weight at sub 66 so I've taken a more relaxed view and am happy(ish) at 67kg. With sport season nearly over my priorities are switching back toward bouldering and while I'd like to be as light as poss it seems to help more (for me at least) on routes.

[Andy F]

I think I may have missed a few weeks 

Goals - Overnite, COTC. 7B+ boulder

Mon - rest
Tues - Volume bouldering upto V6/7
Wed - 30 mins fingerboard
Thurs - Rest
Fri - 20 mins fingerboard
Sat - Family
Sun - Malham. Usual warm up, put clips in Overnite. Had one good go, pissed the bottom, shook all the way from the undercuts to the last bolt. Pumped but happy at getting that far climbing it so badly. Then the sun came out and furnace like conditions enused  defeated by conditions. Did a 7a and 7b for mileage.

[Probes]

Thought i might join in if i may, it might help get me off my arse more often this winter, and fend off the Sad's.

STG - tick as much as can on yorkshire whitestuff before the yr end
MTG - Get power back up V??'s, and get hill fit for winter.
LLTG - Give up fags again, Another day in paradise, Brandl Hasse, Scot VII, Cry freedom

M - work, make boards, darwen run route 2 x1 10.5km 52mins
T - work, boulderuk 2 1/2hrs 
W - work, darwen run route 1 x2 8km 38mins, pub
T - work, westview - 1.5hr bouldering 45mins campusboard
F - work, band practice
S - Malham, warm up x2, 4x Redpoint connect four, trying to break the block this route has in brain, grrr.. piss up to the crux, fall off, straight back on and piss it to the top x 4! One day. Pub & town.
S - 9hr monster recording session in parr street, frazzled.

Great to feel fit again, a summer of trad and regular running seems to be working my weaknesses, just got to get power back up to something resembling my former abilities and if the 2 meet ill be chuffed.

[iain]

House being in bits and builder taking their time, diy, new uni course, poor sleep and general lethargy = couldn't be arsed training.

Did have a fantastic day out at Boulder Ruckle on Sunday, and managed to onsight my first ruckle E3. Proper heart in mouth runout with death pump but somehow made it to easier ground. Much harder than anything I did at Pembroke a month back. Also seconded a roofy thing where campusing was the easiest way to do it. Brilliant.

Off to Font this Saturday, no idea how I'll climb and not really got any goals but will be a much needed holiday.

[Falling Down]

STG:Redpoint 7b & Lead E3 (Done) again by end of Sept.
MTG’s (End 2010) – Redpoint 7b+ (Lightweight Easy Way/Indecent) & Onsight E5. Do a good time in the Puma Hell Run. Pass my Gym Jones seminar/course.
VLTG’s – Redpoint 8b, Boulder 8a, Onsight E6 drop weight to 11.5 st.

M -
T - Evening: Kinder run 10-12 miles, 2,500ft 1hr 56min.
W - Evening: PE KB routine mixed with max hangs on beastmaker for 2 hours
T -
F -
S - Afternoon at Stanage with Galpinos, some warmup bouldering then HVS, E1 and E2/E3. Battled and failed on Centuaur.
S - Foiled by drains disaster at home.

Pissed off I didn't get to go outside twice this weekend due to a disaster with the drains at home. A really long and hard week at work didn't help either. Managed to scrape a soft touch E3 lead at Stanage on Saturday afternoon to make one of my Sept goals.  Weight down a couple of lbs to 12st 6lb

This week: Away all week again with lots of very long work days and related travel so hopefully squeeze in 1 routes/circuit session at Aberdeen wall, 1 gym sess and two runs mid week. 1 day sport and 1 day trad at weekend (weather permitting) - maybe manage my 7b a couple of days late.

[Monolith]

All goals as previous posts...

Mon - Climbed at Dinbren with Mule. Not many hours of light but first crag visit and a beautiful evening/well impressed with it.
Tue - Got back on boulder project. I feel light = win. Need to reclean but happy.
Wed - N/A
Thurs - N/A
Fri - N/A
Sat - N/A
Sun - Mild hangover and late night. Well impressed how little I'm interested in drinking now.

A crap week in terms of volume but not getting pissed really anymore. This is progress. Those sessions I did have were good. Final year of uni started today. 5AM starts this year beginning next week after field trip. Gaskins power.

[duncan]

House being in bits and builder taking their time, diy, new uni course, poor sleep and general lethargy = couldn't be arsed training.

I think you mean you were tapering!

Did have a fantastic day out at Boulder Ruckle on Sunday, and managed to onsight my first ruckle E3. Proper heart in mouth runout with death pump but somehow made it to easier ground. Much harder than anything I did at Pembroke a month back.

Good one.  Soul Sacrifice?

[Joe]

NEW/UPDATED GOALS:
STG – Finger board sessions 3 times a week, back top roping/leading during November, December – climb 7a+ circuit at Gollum’s Cave, Bristol.
MTG – Climb 7b, (House Burning Down/Bitter and Twisted) on-sight 7a
LTG – Climb 7c, climb 8a within 3 years (from 6th September 2010)

M - Nothing
T - Lead climbing with a friend. Felt was climbing at peak-ish when he was ready to leave. Stayed to boulder. Right foot slipped on a technical V4, left foot bridged out behind me, fell about 4-5 feet onto mat, caught inside of left foot awkwardly, dislocated knee cap. Writhed around in pain a bit, ambulance/paramedics came, couldn’t get it back in after about 10mg morphine, another  5mg, left in ambulance to A&E where it was put back using midazolam.
W- Nothing
T – Nothing
F – Nothing
S – Finger board session back at climbing wall. Went pretty well, but routine needs tweaking.
S – Nothing
So unfortunately injured this week, but not badly enough to stop me using a finger board, although I’ll be out of actual climbing for a little bit. In a leg brace til 8th Oct at earliest, and after that will need physio. Don’t know how long before leg will feel good enough to get back top roping and leading, I’m hoping November, and keeping off bouldering til at least December. Despite general inconvenience in life, might be actually beneficial for strength as I have had difficulty with getting motivated on finger boards in the past, and now thats all I can do. If I do this right, stick with it and put in a lot of effort I could end up stronger at the end of this! Any advice on making the most out of finger boards appreciated...