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son of a gun, magic wood
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son of a gun, magic wood
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a dense loner
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son of a gun, magic wood
September 12, 2010, 07:44:36 pm
does anyone have any worthwhile beta for this problem? specifically the start. everybody's scorecard on 8a.wrongstartholds says soft. i simply don't believe any of it. cheers for any help
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#1 Re: son of a gun, magic wood
September 12, 2010, 08:08:53 pm
Start on the 2 obvious sloping crimps. Right foot on and then pull to good holds. 7b max? It's a one move wonder and probably not worth your time spend................WHAT A MINUTE!.......This problem is made for you..............it's you destiny..............go take it.
Also, when are you in MW?
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a dense loner
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#2 Re: son of a gun, magic wood
September 12, 2010, 08:23:13 pm
this is nowhere near 7b. you're saying you sit start on the 2sloping crimps right next to each other and put your right foot somewhere high where it can't be placed or use the bigish foothold underneath that sends you off balance to do a long move to rh hold then left then right?
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monkey boy
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#3 Re: son of a gun, magic wood
September 12, 2010, 08:50:01 pm
Yeah slopey crimps, high smear for right foot and up with right hand. Left out to a good-ish hold and right to a jug. It used to get 7c+, I thought 7c was more right though. It definately didnt feel 7b to me.
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#4 Re: son of a gun, magic wood
September 12, 2010, 08:54:08 pm
Yes this is EXACTLY what I'm saying. Crux for me was getting my right foot to stick on the shit hold, and it's a crouch not a sit. Do a video search for starting position as I couldn't reach the starting holds from a sit
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#5 Re: son of a gun, magic wood
September 12, 2010, 08:58:59 pm
http://novebi.ning.com/group/magicwood/forum/topics/son-of-a-gun
Are you telling me that there are holds lower than this?
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monkey boy
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#6 Re: son of a gun, magic wood
September 12, 2010, 09:30:42 pm
No not lower than this! You are just obviously too strong or maybe I was very weak when I did it!!
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#7 Re: son of a gun, magic wood
September 12, 2010, 09:44:00 pm
I very much doubt that fella. I do like the crimp though. Either way this problem is log
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RASTATA
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#8 Re: son of a gun, magic wood
September 13, 2010, 08:20:20 am
start from two slopy crimps, no sit start, probably around 7b+
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a dense loner
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#9 Re: son of a gun, magic wood
September 13, 2010, 09:47:05 am
good find, looked elsewhere but no joy. didn't think you'd get rf there from sat on boulder. good to see guides are constantly updated
would never have thought of that guys sequence on the vid for the top. think the right foot may be too high for me, will see when it dries. cheers
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#10 Re: son of a gun, magic wood
September 13, 2010, 12:12:49 pm
You would be fine with the right foot. If you lean back to put it on your body goes horizontal. I seem to remember a dragon being of help. I did the top slightly different by going out left to the obvious holds, but it's all about 1a from the first move. I was thinking for a minute that you had found some lower holds and that I'd started this in the wrong place
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Jim
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#11 Re: son of a gun, magic wood
September 13, 2010, 12:24:18 pm
it wouldn't of been a suprise in magic wood now would it!
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Andy B
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fishie in a dishie
#12 Re: son of a gun, magic wood
September 13, 2010, 03:21:54 pm
Quote from: monkey boy on September 12, 2010, 09:30:42 pm
No not lower than this! You are just obviously too strong or maybe I was very weak when I did it!!
You were just blown away by a little makem punter flashing it.
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