Wilton 2. Don't even bloody bother. And Anglezarke isn't really worth the effort. The most depressing thing about that massive Lancashire Rock guide is that you look around whatever bleak hole you've arrived in then look at the guide and just think "Ugh! There's more."
Paul, whilst I generally agree with you, there are some guides that "big up" some truly awful venues, ones that should never have been visited.These, I fear, are at the heart of A's post.
Quote from: GCW on September 12, 2010, 12:10:51 amPaul, whilst I generally agree with you, there are some guides that "big up" some truly awful venues, ones that should never have been visited.These, I fear, are at the heart of A's post.Examples please?
Examples please?
I think the problem with over selling these mid grade crags is that they tend to attract beginers and novice climbers, like my girlfriend, who do not understand the possible threat they are exposed to and these crags get very busy so the likely hood of getting hit by a falling hold becomes, more likely...
Can this possibly be an honest assessment of the crags character. I think not. I have heard of numerous accidents and near misses due to falling rock. And what do the stars represent in this context? the climbs and rock do not seem to be much better than Giggleswick where most of the routes are given (an honest at least) 0-1 stars. At least UKC have updated the status of this crag in their crag log book "PLEASE NOTE: After the severe weather this winter (09/10) there have been reports of lots of loose rock on the easy routes on the left of the crag. In one reported case a very large flake fell near '3 Peaks Bunk Room'. Please be very careful and remember to wear your helmet!" It does not sound like the crag is going to get better with more traffic either.I think the problem with over selling these mid grade crags is that they tend to attract beginers and novice climbers, like my girlfriend, who do not understand the possible threat they are exposed to and these crags get very busy so the likely hood of getting hit by a falling hold becomes, more likely...
Quote from: Bonjoy on September 12, 2010, 09:50:10 amExamples please? I would like to point you to the reletively recent opening and subsequent articals regarding Castleberg Crag at settle - http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=1965Please note that the text does point out the initial iffy quality of the crag but then goes on to say "an intense period of activity by a group of eight local climbers who, in conjunction with the council and supported by several local traders transformed the cliff into the excellent climbing venue it is today". Also, one should note the amount of stars the routes are given on the topo, the crag has an average of two stars.Can this possibly be an honest assessment of the crags character. I think not. I have heard of numerous accidents and near misses due to falling rock. And what do the stars represent in this context? the climbs and rock do not seem to be much better than Giggleswick where most of the routes are given (an honest at least) 0-1 stars. At least UKC have updated the status of this crag in their crag log book "PLEASE NOTE: After the severe weather this winter (09/10) there have been reports of lots of loose rock on the easy routes on the left of the crag. In one reported case a very large flake fell near '3 Peaks Bunk Room'. Please be very careful and remember to wear your helmet!" It does not sound like the crag is going to get better with more traffic either.I think the problem with over selling these mid grade crags is that they tend to attract beginers and novice climbers, like my girlfriend, who do not understand the possible threat they are exposed to and these crags get very busy so the likely hood of getting hit by a falling hold becomes, more likely...I should add that I have never visited Castlebergh so everything I have said could be complete twaddle and if it is, I will eat my hat. For now, I will give Castlebergh a miss and take Lizzie to Castle Inn that in this context, is not a sh!te crag.
oh for heavens sake. If ever there was a case for the shit heap, this is it.Use some bloody common sense and be objective with your decisions and reasonable with your expectations.
As mentioned. Pick up a copy of the A55 guide.
Left hand side - 4+ - 6a very loose and not very good. Take a helmet. Is away from the public footpath though.Central buttress - 4+ - 6b, not great but occasional ok-ish route, some looseness will always be present. This is the most dangerous bit of Castlebergh because a public footpath runs directly below it.Right hand side - 6c - 7a+ much more solid and actually has some very good routes (IMO). It isn't Malham though!
Oddly enough the biggest bit of rock to come down off the crag at me was on the Catwalk in Malham... someday someone will pull down that block on Puddlejumper too, which is certainly as big as the block that fell off Castlebergh earlier this year!