[205Chris]

Does anyone know anything about this route? Dan Honneyman E5 I think. Featured on the opening sequence of Consumed but I can't find any mention of it in the guide.

Anyone know whereabouts at Black Rocks it is?

[sidewinder]

If you search on the inferior channel for it, you get a result which starts

"Climbs the arete of a quarried wall on the right of the incline at Black Rocks, ..."

however clicking the link goes to some sort of dead page, don't know if this is enough to help you?

[nik at work]

This is dredged from deep deep memory so may be very much wrong but I seem to remember it's not actually at Black Rocks but is rather in the vicinity. Possibly in the direction of Bauston Tor? Maybe even at Barreledge Quarry??

I provide no assurance of any kind of accuracy with the above information, I wasn't there when he did it but I very vaguely recall him pointing it out to me one day perhaps as we were maybe walking to Bauston Tor and it was on a quarried edge adjacent to a pretty wide footpath/bridleway/track...  maybe. And that's assuming the route your talking about is the route I'm thinking of, which it might not be

Anyway that was probably pretty useless...

[205Chris]

Anyway that was probably pretty useless...

Maybe, maybe not. Thanks for the response.

My friend's in the process of cleaning up some of the lines around there at the moment (bad news for slab climbers, hot dog sniffer, beast of bauston etc.) and was curious about My Pet Daddy.

[Bonjoy]

Bad News for Slab Climbers is an amazing route. I lobbied for it to go in the guide at three stars, to no avail (possibly due to rusty peg and creaky flakes on the starting roof). One of Paul Mitchell's best new routes. Looks a bit like Strapidictomy but is bigger, scarier, harder and twice as fun.

[grimer]

from outside new routes book:

"Past Black Rocks (past Hot Dog Sniffer) down the incline is some quarried grit about 1/2 way down the incline on the right (the only clean bit).

Climb the arete on its left then rock round onto RHS at 2/3 height, dyno last move."

[Oli]

Is this the thing that Donie falls off at the start of Consumed?

Also, does anyone (grimer?) know where abouts at Froggatt Isla Grace is? I had a quick look the other day and couldn't see anything that looked like I remembered it looking in Consumed (if that makes sense...). However, my memory could be wrong, and my DVD is scratched so I can't check.

[nik at work]

Isla Grace is at the side of the road rather than actually at Froggatt. There used to be a small parking bay just round the corner and down the hill from the parking/gate for Froggatt. Isla Grace is on one of the next butresses just a little bit further along the road. I think the parking bay has been blocked off now but it should still be clear where it was. Hope that helps.

[Oli]

Cheers, that's where I was looking. Obviously my memory's bad, i'll have another look at some stage. Is it on one of those bits of rock that is literally about 10ft from the road?  Do you know if it's been repeated or if it's any good?

[nik at work]

Yes it's right by the road. Dunno if it's been repeated. I've not been on it so couldn't really comment on the quality but Dan thought it was worth doing. It's only quite short from what I remember. Bear in mind this all dredged from the depths of memory...

[205Chris]

Thanks Grimer. I'll have to have another look next time I'm down there.

[grimer]

yeah isla grace is more or less beside the road. i could never see any parking bay at all, but I think there are 3 small walls seperated by 2 deep cracks and it's on one of those walls. It wasn't somewhere i would want to climb.

No i think the thing Donie falls off is at Hawkcliffe.

Hello Donie 

[Nan]

Sorry to drag this up again but I can't find the route in the outside book and not really sure where chris has got the proposed e5 from.  Any idea what dan gave it in e grade and tech grade? Grimer? Nik?

[nik at work]

Can't remember what grade he gave it, but I'd guess about E5/6 6b/c

[205Chris]

Sorry to drag this up again but I can't find the route in the outside book and not really sure where chris has got the proposed e5 from.  Any idea what dan gave it in e grade and tech grade? Grimer? Nik?

Says E5 on Dan's youtube channel.

[Tom de Gay]

E5 6a I think. Maybe.

[grimer]

Sorry, not sure where this is. Seeing the video it looks like BarrelEdge Quarry, but the bit about the incline suggests it might be that rock you pass on the way to Bauston Tor.While doing the guide I could never work out where it was myself, and the best sense I made of the description was on the piece of rock opposite Railway Slabs. I couldn't bring myself to ask Dan about it because I was convinced he hated me so I just gave up on it.

[205Chris]

Sorry, not sure where this is. Seeing the video it looks like BarrelEdge Quarry, but the bit about the incline suggests it might be that rock you pass on the way to Bauston Tor.While doing the guide I could never work out where it was myself, and the best sense I made of the description was on the piece of rock opposite Railway Slabs. I couldn't bring myself to ask Dan about it because I was convinced he hated me so I just gave up on it.

I'm pretty sure we found it the other week, as you walk along the High Peak Trail from Black Rocks towards Bauston Tor after a while there is a gate next to an old building (winching house??). Continuing along the High Peak Trail it drops downhill and there is some rock on the right. Looks like My Pet Daddy takes a fairly obvious arete but it was under a heavy layer of greenery and would take a bit of cleaning to get it into a climbable state.

I daresay with a bunch of pads it might be highballable?

[Nan]

Hoping to clean it when I stop being so lazy, kinna wanted an idea of the tech grade to decide about highballing it or not, know where it is just couldn't find dan's original write up in the outside book which would have have that info in.

[205Chris]

Hoping to clean it when I stop being so lazy, kinna wanted an idea of the tech grade to decide about highballing it or not, know where it is just couldn't find dan's original write up in the outside book which would have have that info in.

You're obviously not looking hard enough - Dan's original write up is on Rock Archivist:

My Pet Daddy - E5 6a
Climbs the arete on it's left then reach round onto the RHS at 2/3rds height, dyno last move.

I've spoonfed you all the information, now go and clean it 

[Nan]

You say I wasn't looking hard enough. Actually I didn't look at all and knew if I posted someone would do the work for me, if only I could think of a way to make that work with the cleaning too 

[Nan]

Cleaned this tonight will need some a few days dry weather and a quick brush then it should be game on.  Well highballable, also seems strange starting on the left so cleaned up the groove to start it and climb it all on the right too.  Looks good.