[shark]

Goal: Oak. 10,000 8a nu points
Weight: 11.1-3

M.
T. Chee Dale PM. Bit humid. Tommy redpointed the awkward 6b on the Emabankment    Worked Toys for the Boys
W.
T.Chee Dale. OK Conditions. Redpointed past crux on Toys for the Boys twice but failed to adjust fingers in undercut pocket
F.Eve. Dolly's benefit gala at the Rising Sun 
S.Clearing out the garage   
S.Chee Dale. Warm and oppressive. Tried to be an onsighting/hindsighting hero at the Embankment without much success. Felt wiped out after.

After the comedown from doing K3 from the previous week need to step back up a gear. Be good to finish off Toys for the Boys this week then get back on another 8.

[GCW]

Short term goals
Climb 10 font 7s in Bleau (August trip)- a bit ambitious maybe.

Medium Term goals
Climb font 7c in 2010 (a bit ambitious maybe).
Lose (almost) a stone initially (aim for 83kg)- also a bit ambitious!
Do my Winter Hill run in under 43:12 (average 10kmh).



M-  Canche, failed on various stuff, did a 7a dyno thingy.  Went to Paris for the rest of the day.  Beer/wine.
T-  Maunoury- did nowt, then Elephant- did Lepreux static.  Afternoon stomped around isatis for a recce/ dyno measurement.  Beer/wine.
W-  Got lost at 95.2 and did nothing.  AfternoonWork/ wine/ packin did Toubib at Bois Rond.  Beer/wine.
T-  Parc Asterix.  Beer/wine.
F-  Isatis, did Abdolobotomy.  Fell off the top out of Surplomb gauche.   Afternoon spent woth the Boss onthe easy circuits of Canche.  noticed a funky 7a sitter and did it.  Beer/wine.
S-  Ended up at Cuisiniere and nailed a 7a I failed on at easter.  Got lost finding Hale Bopp.  Afternoon with the Boss on yellows at Reine.  Evening almost landing Movement Activated.  Beer/wine.
S-  Basically failed on everything today, nearly did a 7a dyno but lost skin.  Have holes in fingers now so the 10 7s aim is in jeopardy.   

[robertostallioni]

This Beer/wine thing. Does it go like this...

Refreshing beer when you walk in the door. Another as dinner is cooked then wine with the meal and bottle finished while reading guidebook for le matin?

mage tout Rodney, mange tout.

[GCW]

Nope, I get a Bucket.  I pour in a bottle of wine, then top it up with cheap beer and mix well.  Then I sit and drink it through a straw (works better that way, dontchaknow) whilst looking at picture of Philippa Forrester and practicing my right arm movements for the main riff of Metallica's Battery.

For some reason I climb like shit the next day.

[Three Nine]

STG: Onsight more 7b+s, try something hard (postman pat?)
MTG: 8as and 7c onsights in Europe
LTG: Tuppence 2011

M: Did a topo 8a at Cheddar, tried a 7c+ crack (eek!) 
T: rest, cardio 30 mins run
W: am. deadhangs 1 hour (bit sleepy) pm: power 45, 2 hours. not as bad as last week.
T: power 45 1.5 hours, skin hurt
F: rest. cardio 20 mins run. ate way too much.
S: Torbryan, scraped up a 7c+, despite shit tactics and rock technique
S: Anstey's, flailed up Boy George by will power alone.

Good week, feel like got some momentum. Hope the coming week of working every day wont fuck me over too much, and I can try something tricky at the weekend.

[robertostallioni]

Bet that got you some funny looks in Parc Asterix.

[Ru]

M. Physio. Told me shoulder probably not tooled to the point of needing surgery. Told me to take a couple of weeks off and do some theraband exercises.
T. Theraband exercises on shoulder
W.Theraband exercises on shoulder
T.Theraband exercises on shoulder
F.Theraband exercises on shoulder
S. Climbed on shoulder. It feels weak. I don't push it.
S. Climbed on shoulder. It feels a bit painful today as well as weak, there's a surprise.

[i_a_coops]

So my girlfriend of nearly 3 years has left me. My coping strategy is to become an absolute monster, and Power Club is clearly the way to achieve this. I'm waiting til I'm over it a bit more before deciding whether or not to get into scary trad and/or boxing!

So, double length post this week, apologies.

Next couple of weeks: more 7c s, 7c+, go to Raven Tor and find a long term project (Chimes of Freedom?)
This year: 8a, 7C (not a link up)
Next year: Become strong enough to create holds by tearing chunks out of the rock, and I don't mean on sandstone.

S      Amazing day at Cheddar, 7a flash, 7b+ first RP, first 7c - YYFY!
S      Bimbly day at Cheddar, do a shit E2
M     
T       Campus session - laddering followed by sets of offset pulls(rungs 1&4, 3 pulls with each hand leading per set), then
         circuits
W
T       Cheddar, piss up a '7b+' that felt beyond me a year ago, only felt 7b - GOOD
F
S       Portland, get moves on Hall Of Mirrors, crux holds really greasy. Jacob still manages it, bastard! Must return, quality route
S

M      Cheddar, do a one move 7b+. Mark crushes an 8a, gets involved with a 7c+ crack for some reason. Although, he's
         climbed 8a and I haven't, so maybe I should get on things that look like utter torture? Not sure....

T       Ribcage feels absolutely broken!
W      Short steep routes at Imperial's wall up to alleged 7b
T       prepare for girlfriend arriving
F       girlfriend arrives, refuses to eat best cookies in the world.
S       girlfriend leaves - NNFN! Decide to get training ASAP, 90 min run, short bouldering/PE session. Buy skyhook as retail
         therapy.
S       Manage to give ex-girlfriend cookies. Run for 90 minutes in the rain, then short bouldering/PE session at Westway.
S       Westway, fell of blue circuit a lot. Watched Kitty Wallace lap blue circuit several hundred times. Christ my stamina is still
         appalling.

Looking back at that, I think I need to work on my stamina as well as PE. Also if I climb outside after only one rest day my footwork suffers, I'll try spanking myself indoors more often to get my body recovering faster and see how that goes.

[ummagumma]

Still have a injured ankle. Slowly improving but still some swelling after sessions. Don't feel confident in pushing it just yet. Could re-injure myself and a big NNFN. Endurance Week no. 2:

M - Fingerboard / Traverse Endurance lr then rl / Working Lover Traverse Section
T - Nowt
W - Climbing Routes - 4c,5c,6a,6b
T - Nowt
F - Nowt
S - Climbing Routes - 5c, 5c+, 6a, 6b, 6b+, 6b
S -Climbing Routes -  5c, 5b, 5c, 6c, 6a, 6c (dogged)

Have a week booked in Font at the end of October. So looking forward to it. Hopefully the foot clears up soon and I can start some hard bouldering training. 

[Barratt]

STG: 100% fitness
LTG: 7b

Mon: Works
Tues: Works
Wed: Weights and rehab
Thur: Badminton with the Mrs Barratt
Fri: Rushed hour down the works
Sat: Rest
Sun: recover from far too much beer on Sat

Managed to climb Sun, mon and tues - first three days on in a long time. Shoulder and ribs are coming along great, finger still giving me problems but overall things are looking up! Hoping for hard week ahead...

[Richie Crouch]

STG: Fix my fubared Finger
MTG: In Hell, Octopussy, Cote De Seshuan, Astronautfieber
LTG: Halfway House, Clyde & T Crack, sport 8a

M: Rest, ice bucket + ibuprofen
T: Rest, ice bucket + ibuprofen
W: Rest, ice bucket + ibuprofen
T: Rest, ice bucket + ibuprofen
F: Rest, ice bucket + ibuprofen, can almost close hand without pressure on knuckle so do some v light weight exercises for shoulders/posture
S: Rest, ice bucket + ibuprofen
S: Have full range of motion in finger so.. I have the most tentative traversing/easy bouldering session of all time. Stopped after 40 mins. Ibuprofen and ice after to premeditate any swelling

Can still fully close hand this morning which is a bonus so going to maybe try another really short jug traverse on Tuesday and see if it still reacts well. Cave on Thursday is unlikely as its much more easily managed indoors. May try get out on some easy grit bouldering circuit.

[Falling Down]

M – Wife’s birthday so had a lazy walk with the dogs.
T – Lunchtime indoor bouldering + fingerboard and kettlebells.
W – Early morning fell/hill run over Eccles Pike with dog. Felt fit. Went to London.
T – Long day at work and a crappy nights sleep.
F – Kettlebells and Fingerboard workout. Overdid it in hindsight.
S – Woke up tired but didn’t realise it until I started climbing.  Chee Dale warm up at Max’s then failed to flash Clarion Call and Armistice Day. Felt _really_ tired mentally and physically..  Psyched by Sausages success on K3.
S –Felt rested after a good nights sleep. Went to Masson Lees and did 2 x 6a+ to warm up.  Tried to onsight Quatrieme Quartier (7a) and got it 2nd RP after fumbling a clip first time around then flashed Pierluigi Galena (7a) by the skin of my teeth.  I think this might be the first time I’ve done two 7a’s in a day – very pleased.

Feel good this morning on the way into London and have my gym gear for run and bodyweight workout later.

STG:Redpoint 7b End of August. Lead E3.
MTG’s (End 2010) – Redpoint 7b+ (Lightweight Easy Way/Indecent) & Onsight E5 (Right Wall or White Wall or Positron) drop weight to 12st.
VLTG’s – Redpoint 8b, Boulder 8a, Onsight E6 drop weight to 11.5 st.

[galpinos]

Having had a bit of a hiatus from climbing due to loss of psyche and a 6 week run of weddings/stag dos every weekend I’ve decided to get back into it.

Goals are as yet undefined, but LTGs have always been Font 7c, onsight E5, onsight 7b, redpoint 8a.

M:   Cycle to work and back, 40 minute run in the evening.
T:   Cycle to work and back, cycle to wall and back, 2hrs at the wall manged to get the red V5 on the comp wall then tried problems that were too hard for me.
W:   Circuits after work.
T:   Cycle to work and back, cycle to wall and back, 2hrs at the wall trying to tick the new white circuit (V4-5). Flashed all bar 2 problems that eluded me (only had 2 efforts on each, will need to work them)
F:   Cycle to work and back, then 1 hr tennis lesson (which was surprisingly tiring)
S:   Belatedly joined Falling Down at the Cornice, Chee Dale. “Warmed up” on the easy 6b by climbing sketchily and getting pumped then tried Armistice Day with the boys. Dogged my way to the top on a top rope whinging about how hard it felt.
S:   Mountain Biking at Coed Llandegla. Managed to get round the Red circuit in 1hr 14 mins. Felt so much easier technically having been beasted at Dalby forest a week or so ago.

Feel a bit weak in general but not lost as much indoor strength as I thought I might. Can’t lock for toffee but can still hold “smallish” holds. Outside movement and footwork was pretty lacking on the limestone at the weekend. Over-reliance on pulling, not trusting smears/small feet and being generally tense didn’t help. Need to get outside more.

Chuffed with all the cycling. It’s a half hour each way to work and 20/25 mins each way to the wall so good to get some aerobic exercise for “free”. Need to squeeze an extra run in there somewhere as well.

[shark]

Watched Kitty Wallace lap blue circuit several hundred times.

Careful what you say on the internet. A member of Nonce Sense might come knocking on your door.

[chris05]

M: 30mins beastmaker, 7*(10 pull-ups & 20 press-ups), weights for arms & core (400 moves)
T: 5m run & core (330)
W: 5m run, 30mins beastmaker & core (300)
T: 5m run & core (330)
F: rest
S: 8m trail run & very poor sport session at Masson Lees
S: bouldering session at wrights

Its been a good week with a return to fingerboarding and actual climbing after a 3 week lay-off to heal fingers. Taking it very easy at the moment but great to be back. Got to be careful not to overdo it and re-injure myself. Remembered why I don't tie on very often anymore!

[duncan]

STG: E3 (Dreadnought?) by end of Summer
MTG: E5 by June 2011

M: shoulder stability stuff
T: The Arch: 4 x 10 min circuits
W: shoulder stability stuff
T: Crouch End: 25 mins circuit
F: Nothing
S: St Govan's East: 7 routes
S: Stackpole/Mowing Word: 3 routes

Excellent weekend in Pembroke: 10 routes, mostly E1s and E2s.  Made it in to Stackpole: what an awesome crag and deserted despite ideal tides and no bird ban.  Where were you people?  Stackpole Cracks (E1) would be ***, nationally famous and getting polished if it were at Stennis Head.

On a training note, stamina is OK but feel pretty weak even on E2s.  I've avoided pulling remotely hard when 'training' as I tend to break but perhaps time to gently introduce some bouldering?

[i_a_coops]

Careful what you say on the internet. A member of Nonce Sense might come knocking on your door.

True, I didn't really mean it to sound like that! 

I only mentioned it as it made me feel pretty shit at climbing... it's hard not to notice when you're absolutely useless compared to anyone 

[nai]

August Goals - TWTR, RP 7c, onsight 7a, E3
2010 goals - 8a, E4, 7C

T - Cornice, redpointed TWTR (but still coudn't manage Big Zipper, good fall though)
W - Spanked by the Tor, fell off the warm up & couldn't touch Out of my Boots.  Did salvage the day by just about linking the crux of Toadside, on the backburner for a wet/short day.

F - Embankment - unexpectedly got on Sturgeon and found it suited me to a tee, had a RP after only one dog up but fell off the last long move due mainly to not believing in myself, didn't have time for another go unfortunately.  Didn't expect to be in a position to try a RP so shouldn't be disappointed, but I am.  Need to get back there asap.
SS - family/friends visit - just about resisted a total pig out but still +2lbs on the scale this morning.

Up and down and up again week, mostly good though.  Super psyched for Sturgeon again this week and a weekend away in the mountains. pleasebedrypleasebedrypleasebedry.....

[webbo]

Goal stick to diet.
Mon.almscliff after work pissed down soon as we got there.went to caley dry but shit conditions managed to do a bit of circuit.
Tue.went round with the vac.
Wed. leeds wall repeated everything i did on my last visit first go.good session.
Thu.rockcity felt tired just repeated stuff.
Fri.biked to work and back 50 mins each way.
Sat.looking at houses most of the day.core and deadhanging late afternoon.friends for dinner drank myself silly.
Sun. bike 4 hrs 10mins hilly ride going quite well to say how much i drank last night.
better week managed to stick with diet till the w/e a couple of pounds lighter this morning.

[shark]

I only mentioned it as it made me feel pretty shit at climbing... it's hard not to notice when you're absolutely useless compared to anyone 

Kitty is potentially world-class and has unreal levels of stamina by all accounts.

If you feel the need then a quick visit to Stanage Popular is usually good for restoring self-esteem.

[Andy F]

Goals - Short term - Grooved Arete, quick tick in the mid-high 7's
Long Term - Climb of the Century, GBH, boulder 7B+

Mon - a few pull-ups
Tues - Light fingerboard session
Wed - Light fingerboard session
Thurs - Cheedale. Retroed a 7a, failed to do my Peak nemesis (Why Me?) despite getting the jug at the end of the crux and throwing myself off. 6 redpoints on it was hard going.
Fri/Sat - Rest. Felt battered after Thursday.
Sun - Kilnsey. Bolt to bolt on GA. First proper go got warmed up. Second go just missed the jug, rested for a minute then went to the belay - 2 overlapping halves. Third go just missed jug, went to belay with 2 rests.
Last go - very tired, but still pulled through the top crux via the new method.
New beta at the top is the way to go for me, more dynamic but less powerful.

Overall - good week, getting fitter and GA is looking more likely.

[chris_j_s]

Weight: 63kg

Aims for 2010: rp 7b+ sport, o/s 6c+ sport, 7A+ boulder.
New STG: Keep to training plan in order to be ready for Kalymnos (11 weeks)

M: a.m - strength session
T: Moughton Nab. Onsighting a few routes up to 6b+/6c.
W: a.m - Strength session.
T: Moughton Nab again. Didn't get up there til too late really so not much done before darkness descended.
F: a.m. Strength session. Camper back from its £1000 MOT    so we head out to the lakes for the night in it. Unfortunately it does not sound at all healthy... 
S + S: Walk in the lakes on Sat. Wild camp at blind tarn and walk back out on Sun a.m. Intended to go climbing but the camper broke down only a few hundred yards down the road so we ate cake and drank tea while we wait for the AA to arrive. AA tow us away and fix the problem (ignition coil) and we make it home but unfortunately after unpacking our stuff and trying to start it up again find that the same thing has happened. This is not at all good and makes me think that more money needs to be spent.

Not too bad. Feel like a proper vw camper owner after having our first breakdown and although no hard routes have been done this week the strength sessions are going well. Additional weight is now up to 23kg, which seems good to me although I've no yardstick to compare this against! 

Edit: post number 100 - woo hoo!!

[roddersm]

STG Goals(2010):

Trad: Onsight several routes E1-E3.
Boulder: Work some problems at Fairhead 7a+-7c+. Split arete 6b+/E4.
Leftovers 7a+.
sport:  f7a in Verdon or Buoux.

LTG's:
Trad: E5 o\s
Sport: o/s 7b. rp 7c.
Boulder: 7C .

Mon  Climbing wall. 2 Hrs PE Circuits and bouldering. Tired 5th day on and tips trashed. 5* 10 fb pullups.
Tue   Rest.
Wed Climbing wall 1.5 hrs. Bouldering and stamina/PE circuits.
Thur  Climbing wall 2 hrs. Bouldering and stamina/PE circuits. 6*10 fingerboard pullups. 
Fri     Run 55 min.
Sat   Trad. 1 severe (solo), 1 HS, 2 VS, 1 HVS, 1 E2. Tired but good to get outside to blow off te cobwebs. 
Sun  Feeling fucked. was going to go climbing but intead go and checkout some crags for potential new routes. Afternoon: outdoor climbing wall 1hr fingery traverses followed by some weights: 3 *10 shoulder presses  and 3 * 10 biceps curls.

Got some decent training sessions in but felt tired all week. Had planned to go flat out this week and then ease off next week before heading to buoux/ verdon next thursday but might ease up a bit this week.

[petejh]

Goal - VIII, 8a, 8A, E8, in 2010.
At - IX, 7c, 7B, E5.
Goal for August: Mussel Beach (LPT), Foil/Quasar/Stroll On in a day (pass). Right Wall & Resurrection back to back.

m. nowt.
t. LPT, greasy and raining when we arrived but slowly improved, good conditions for the last couple hours. Got on Parasite and Mussel Beach for first proper look, Parasite feels nails, Mussel Beach feels do-able and very good but is a cop-out finishing where it does, it should continue up Parasite imo.
w. nowt.
t. LPT, linked Mussel from roof to top four times, then worked out the start. Ready to send. Did a bunch of other routes on UPT, good day.
f. Sneaky look at the king of sport crags.
s. work.
s. Working and bolting project, killer line.

Finally back to making progress after three weeks of poor weather and/or greasy conditions. Going to challenge myself to send Mussel first rp, continuing up Parasite.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals: Lockless Monster, Sea's a Brown..., some other F7c, F8a before 2014.

M: Yoga + Weights & Bar - 30mins yoga warmup, 100 sits, 4 x 20 leg raises, 3 x 30 pressups, 4 x 10rep bicep curls @ 15.5kg, 3 x 10 french pulls + 10kg...
T: Got on Lockless - Managed to link ground to throw (powered out so bit of a half hearted attempt at throw) and undercut to top.. Too tired for RP attempt though. Reckon it's on for the next session or so though.
W: Tired.
T: Bouldering @ The works - Felt crap and weak.
F: Nowt
S: Nowt
S: Couldn't get anyone to go get on LM so went to Rubicon, did some traversing and did the sitter to "a millers tale" after quite some goes.. 6b+! Good tho;-)

Meh! Good session on the project Tuesday then downhill, surprised how hard I found MT (until I cracked a really nice but unlikely sequence), had a feel of Kudos and The Press.. Work needs to be done before these feel anything other than the living end!

This Week: Finish LM (hopefully), get on summat else, do more weight and bar shiz...

:D