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UKB Power Club Week 25 (2nd - 8th Aug) (Read 15572 times)

Monolith

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STG's: Get back moving after months of bare activity. Lots of route volume to induce muscles. Do Mudjakeewis.
MTG's: Get boulder project done in Sep/Oct when cooler temps.
LTGS: Boulder-wise some quality 8a's in Chironico and a tick of something hard and classic would be nice on the end of a rope.

Mon - Active rest at Llandullas. Got straight on Mudje for one attempt, worked out top gaston move which was nice. Belayed Matt on various things. Nice evening out.
Tue - Rest, had couple of beers
Wed - Rest, handed out Iron Maiden promotional album flyers to 15 year old girls outside 02 academy at an unsigned band emo gig for a few hours. Promoters got this one so wrong and I felt illegal.
Thur - Couldn't get rope so no climb.
Fri - Went to Llandullas. Felt total crap, just belayed. Never tied on and ate chocolate.
Sat - Rest, felt ill and mother told me I looked grey.
Sun - Down at LPT on belay. Got to Dullas at 8 on way home. Felt ill still, shouldn't have bothered.

Worst week in a long time unfortunately. Had weird flu like symptoms feeling drained but no actual cold or cough. Must make amends this week. Figure some PE sessions on the board will help.



andybfreeman

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Goals = unchanged

M - weights and core at home
T - circuits session at TCA, hotter than hell so circuits abandoned after 1 hours and spent the next 3 hours aimlessly bouldering
W - 2 hours of power training at Mark's. OK session with some beastmaker to finish
T - pull sups and fingerboard at home
F - rest, ate far too much
Sa - pootling at Torbryan, failed to finish anything above 6c without resting on the rope, felt like a total punter fluffing clips etc
Su - anstey's, hot when we arrived so had a few goes on the lynch. made progress from the only other time I'd tried it and worked it in 2 halves but didn't have a RP as i got distracted and tried CS when Doyle arrived and put the clips in. fell repeatedly from the first hard move  then remembered what i was doing with my feet and got through to the move that I'd struggled with before (grabbing the sica hold). This route is completely at my limit but I'm psyched for another go next weekend if it's at all overcast. if I'm going to do it i need to get on it every week or two until it goes down, the 8 weeks since i last tried it was too long a gap!

Weight - average destroyed by fat Friday, up to 68kg for the week. Need to get this under control sharpish

Nibile

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easier week but a good one.

mon - gym. very tired from saturday's climbing and sunday's monster session on the beast. no back exercises.
tue - rest.
wed - bouldering at a friend's mini wall. 15° overhanging, beasted my fingers on pinches and crimps. cool session.
thu - rest.
fri - beastmaker. one arm max deadhangs. 20°, big rungs, 35°, right eye, small rungs. 5"x6 sets per arm per hold. tired!!!
sat - rest.
sun - amiata bouldering! I felt bad but dispatched, so...
KEEP THE FAITH.

chillax

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STG: E3
MTG: E4
LLTG: E7

Mon - Tues: Fuck all
Wed: Fair Head. Epically windy, felt more like Patagonia than the north antrim coast (the force of the wind could blow a free-hanging size 3 camalot horizontal). Did a couple of nice long VS's. Felt wild.
Thurs - Sun: Fuck all

Thesis writing and personal stuff are starting to take over a wee bit. Not really a bad thing though. Nice to remember theres more to life than just climbing. Had a look at a couple of E3's that i think I'll be able to do. Just have to steal a couple of days of good weather with a psyched partner to go try em.

Dr T

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STG – no change – get back up to strength, drop as much weight as can be done healthily
MTG – a couple of nice low 7’s in the next few weeks on what will be non-climbing trips to places with a little bit of rock
LTG – same as before – a reasonable haul of 7’s in two trips to font between Xmas and Easter

Mon – 2 hour sociable session at school wall - reset some problems with crapper holds and resent, eased up eliminate project (prop only 7a/+)
Tues - 1 and a bit hours on the 45 deg board in the shed – the easy stuff (6b/6cish) is now feeling easy, the medium stuff is getting there so long as I concentrate and it doesn't involve slopers, the hard stuff on the other hand, I think atleast a 10 deg drop in temp  is required
Wed – 2 hour session on the boulder wall at Craggy GFord - tidied everything worth doing up to 6c+ in 3 goes or less (except one that took 5...)
Thurs – 10k run
Fri – 1 hour session on the 45 deg board - as Tues....  :-\
Sat – Rest day
Sun – Family swim/spash around - took Jr T for his second ever swim, he loves it, even the head under the water bit; not bad for 18 months - did manage to squeeze in 10 lengths, could tell I hadn't been swimming since Jr T came into the world

Weight 76.1kg (down 0.8 from last week)

nik at work

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8B, 8b+

M - nothing
T - plans scuppered by Portuguese Man'O War apparently
W - Sport session in the rain, reasonable if short session
T - nothing
F - went for run
S - nothing
S - bouldering, did a new (stupid eliminate training) traverse ~7C/+ ish.

Not a bad week considering I was on the Isle of Man, still don't feel like I'm pushing on to new levels but at least I'm treading water...

Charles

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Think I missed last week!  :o

Training has been a bit unstructured of late. Rather busy and that.

Monday - Nowt.
Tuesday - Depot. Played on big roof some. Did F7a first go (but had tried it once last week). Tried F7b and failed near top. Didn't feel as trashed though as previously and managed to squeeze out another attempt where I nearly gained previous high point.
Wednesday - ruined.
Thursday - Depot. Planned stamina session replaced by Depoting. Tried F7b again. Did it. Mini-saga over! If only it was a real route.
Friday - drank half sheffield. 
Saturday - drank the other half of sheffield.
Sunday - Went to London.

While I was pleased to finally do the F7b (disproportionately pleased to say 1) it's only F7b and 2) it's an indoor route thing) I don't know whether success came from improvements to my power endurance or not.

Another busy week this week, toing and froing between Bradford and London. Will try squeeze some training in. Have found out that planned Mallorca trip may be jeopardised if I actually get one of the internships I'm applying for. I was hoping climbing vs career wouldn't be an issue for another few years...

tomtom

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STG 7B+

I've missed this for 2 1/2 weeks as I've been away. During that time I've done nothing except loose 5kg  :o and then gain most of it back again on a stag weekend  :pissed:

I'm looking forward to - and part dreading touching rock again!  :)

Doylo

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STG- some 8as, get better.     MTG - Diamond project.          LTG - get stronger fitter.       M - rest.                              T - orme, nodder and james.Tried simon says.one tricky move for me.cool though. Got back on Stark.More beta refinement and i fall off the last move.It feels much easier than previous sessions though and feel like i m climbing a bit better.Deadhangs.                  W - Mill.Comeback session,7a+s dropping like flies.Thats more like it! Finish with 3 circuits. Deadhangs.      T - LPT, had one RP on the new link Bad Melons. Crux hold was wet so fall.Should be a goer though.Do Bad Boy 3 times.                                  F - Deadhangs.                      S - Rest.                              S - 5 hour drive to ansteys. Jump straight on Cider Soak bolt to bolt. Get to the pocket a few times on RP but fall off move to jug.Still learning it but start muttering to myself about not being clinical enough Great route!                                                                 This week saw the end of the LULL thank god. Strength was a bit more where it should be and climbing a bit better. 

Doylo

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Apologies for the layout of this weeks post.I did it on my phone.

uptown

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Good effort redpointing TWTR Nai. I'm sure you'll get Sturgeon quickly.

LTGs  - New high 8 bloc, sport and trad - uncertain of grades but all very hard, and very good. (2010/11)
MTGs - The dirty dozen sport list. (2010)
STGs - one off the DD, Onsight/flash 7c, three 8's. (AUGUST)

M - Nowtup.
T - Trollers with Toby. Pulled a hold off the start of the Velveteen Rabbit project, yet was pleased to manage the "1 inch punch" crux move. Failure on my other project - the new whites do have a weakness! Anyone recommend me a good 5.10 heel? Repeated The Tinderbox since a hold has come off. The crux climbs very differently, and the route is better for it. Trollers hardest route for now at a steady 7c+, and worth a couple of stars for this venue. Toby got very close to the third ascent. Finished by flashing Angel heart despite poor beta from Toby and Smitton. Good moves and worth doing but a very tight line scraping 7c.
W - Raven Tor, met Nai. Opened an account with Revelations, though my old bones and conditions warranted only a 15 minute look-see. Bouldered with Jon Clark, He's strong, long and a fellow Derbyshire chap, so he must be destined for 8c.
T - Nowtup.
F - Kilnsey with Sean and Toby. Toby gave me some good beta today, and I had one of my most productive ground-up sessions as a result. Zero option and soft-zero option flashes (easy and hard 7c+ respectively) have given me a sense that an 8a flash might just be feasible sometime. Finished by playing on The Ripper, which is superb climbing, newly re-bolted and a fresh goal as a consequence.
S - Nowtup.
S - Nowtup.

A good week - Having achieved smashed one short term goal, I'm ready to tackle more mid seven onsights and maybe Grooved arete this coming week. I've set additional 2010 goals in aspiring to 3 8b's - The Ripper, Love amongst the butterflies and The Oak.

iain

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Been away, and then had no motivation to train or post.

Skye/Scotland holiday was great but almost no climbing due to changeable weather and choosing to use the good days on the mountains.

Did manage to get an afternoon on an old pe 8a project of mine in Glen Ogle which was good because I could link in 2 halves reasonably comfortably and was stronger than last year, but bad because I was too tired from previous day(s) activities to actually do it. Will plan a trip north specifically to do it as 5 redpoints spread over 2 years is not the way to get it done.

Also been assessing what I've been able to do this year and although I've been climbing loads, it's all been 'fun' climbing and onsighting rather than getting stuck into projects. It some ways it's been great because I've always suffered from a lack of rock time and it's always something I can benefit from, but I've also not really ticked any routes I'm proud of. Worked out I've only had 5 days projecting this year which just isn't enough.

Goals are to have better tactics with my days out and project where I can.

I have this weekend free, anyone fancy a weekend at Anstey's? I realise there were a few folk there last weekend and so psyche may be low.

Luthor

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Recovery week after being ill. Few busy weeks coming up so not going to be able to train properly until end of month. Hmm... Grit season not too far away now :-)


M
T - Works, easy stuff
W - Works, easy stuff
T
F - Works, normal sess
S - Works, normal sess
S

 

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