[shark]

1,000th post on power club board 

Goal: Oak. 10,000 8a nu points
Weight: 11.1-3/4

M.
T.(Too wet for Cornice). Eve. Foundry with Ben. Bouldering Wave and Board
W.Eve. Foundry with Ben & Tom. Bouldering Wave and Board
T.Eve. 2 evening meals and wine - whoops
F.Eve. Foundry. Bouldering Wave and Board
S.BMC talent day for Tom - hanging around at MCC avoiding food.
S.Cornice. Conditions started OK but hot and humid. Better warm-up this time and felt stronger dogging up the route to put the draws in. 3 good redpoints to rail. Led rail to top on dogging go and last go.

With the rainy weather and advice decided to stay away from the Cornice and felt better for it. Was going to experiment with not eating on Saturday (Glycogen dump*) but my wife was so appalled I ate in the evening. Didnt mind too much as it obviously wasnt going to be optimal conditions on Sunday and there was Ben & Jerry's on the table. Feel a lot more psyched for the route. Will take this week as it comes but plan on doing some strength training today. Weight currently at year low.

* http://onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2010/06/glycogen-dumping-and-why-it-probably.html

[uptown]

I'll get in early -
monday to sunday - zilch climbing training and stretching, yet I have managed to eat plenty of pasties and drink so much vino that Jasper would be very proud of me.
I'll put my boots on later this week to see what the damge is. 

[chris05]

M: 50l swim (crawl), 4m run & core (300 moves)
T: pull-ups (70), press-ups (140), weights for arms & core (300)
W: 40l swim (crawl), 4m run & core (300)
T: rest
F: 40l swim (crawl), 4m run & core (300)
S: bouldering churnet
S: 5.6m run & core (300)

Just as the fingers were improving I've gone and re-injured my middle finger A2, hopefully it wont set me back too long but going to rest it properly this time. On the up side the elbows are feeling better than they have for a year or more. Doing a fair amount of fitness work at the moment to avoid frustration at not being able to climb and get fit for surf trip in october. I think when I'm finally free of injury I will see some good improvements.

[petejh]

Goal - VIII, 8a, 8A, E8, in 2010.
At - IX, 7c, 7B, E5.
Goal for July - Bad Bad Boy (LPT), Foil/Quasar/Stroll On in a day (pass).
Goal for July/August - One of: Mussel Beach/Parasite/Statement (LPT). Right Wall & Resurrection back to back.

m. went to cave for a quick session, then belayed Neil as he O/S'd Si's old proj. Had a play on it, good route, bouldery.
t. nowt.
w. Bouldering in cave, easy session, not working anything at the mo.
t. LPT, sent Bad Bad Boy first redppoint, YYFY. Felt super good, very solid.
f. nowt
s. UPT, Rebolted Contusion lower-off, argument with the bell-end who runs the Brennin, O/S'd a bunch of really good 6c+'s in the Testament area.
s. Rebolted Drip Drip Drip, Direct, Storm Warning, Wet Dreams. All good routes, Drip Drip Drip especially good.

A great week salvaged from between the storms. Next step is an 8a, will see which one inspires me this week.

[shark]

t. LPT, sent Bad Bad Boy first redppoint, YYFY. Felt super good, very solid.

 

Desperate route. Nice work.

[GCW]

Right, due to getting fat I shall join in for the moment.
Recently hit 88.7kg, so a new regime is in place- minimal alcohol   

Short term goals- Climb 10 font 7s in Bleau (August trip)- a bit ambitious maybe.
Medium Term goals- Climb font 7c in 2010.  Lose (almost) a stone initially (aim for 83kg)- also a bit ambitious!

M-  Ran up Winter Hill.  7.2km, 230m ascent, 45:10.
T-  West View for 2 hours.  Did most stuff of V5 and below.  Felt pretty weak really.
W-  Cadshaw (short) run.  6.4km, 130m ascent, 38:05.
T-  Session on Nik's Wall of Burl.  Was rubbish, but managed a few moves I initially found hard.  Footwork is shit.  1xG+T and 2 glasses red wine
F-  Boss' Graduation, so not much activity.  2.5 pints Guinness early on, then start night shifts
S-  Winter Hill again with RGinns, 48:23 (I'll blame him as he had a stitch).
S-  Tired from nights.  Cadshaw run.  7.7km, 130m ascent, 41:13


Weigh in just now:  84.8kg, but I'll await a Monday morning weigh in trend rather than a one off.
In pre- Font avoiding injury mode now, so nothing significant for the next couple of weeks I guess.

[JamesD]

got back from holiday Monday, recovery tuesday, went back to a mental week of work until saturday, whereby I decided to drown my sorrows after losing out on quite a big job that I was looking forward to, had absolutely no motivation to train or even leave the house after this.
Still things are looking more positive today, not the most inspirational power club entry, but I thought it was better than bullshitting by saying I had something even resembling a productive weeks worth of training 

[Three Nine]

STG: be strong, climb something hard
MTG: redpoint lots of 8as/onsight lots of 7cs in Europe
LTG: Tuppence 2011

M active rest - did about 5 6as to pass the time at Castle Inn quarry
T Bouldering Cave/Box - did a dubious 7B link, then did Pill Box Original
W did Parisella's Original and some other thing, then a couple of 7a+ routes on Mayfair
T rest. cardio 30mins run.
F am: power 45 1.5 hours
S Anstey's, failed on various things, getting a bit warm
S Pottering in Devon - a bit of easy soloing then a gentle boulder circuit

[Andy F]

Goals - Quick ticks in the mid - high 7's, GA, COTC, GBH.

Mon - 100 pull-ups, various grips
Tues - Repeaters, 45 mins
Wed - Pull ups/repeaters 1 hr
Thurs-Sat - Family
Sun - Kilnsey. Usual warm-up. Put clips in The Jekyll. First RP messed up 2nd to last clip and powered out going for good hold above. 2nd RP no mistakes. First tougher tick since the little fella came along, good to feel the fitness returning.

I'm away next weekend so won't have anything to post. Back on GA next, if it's dry...

[roddersm]

STG Goals(2010):

Trad: Onsight several routes E1-E3.
Boulder: Work some problems at Fairhead 7a+-7c+. Split arete 6b+/E4.
sport: Onsight at least f7a in Verdon or Buoux.

LTG's:
Trad: E5 o\s
Sport: o/s 7b. rp 7c.
Boulder: At least 7C .

Mon  Afternoon: Run 55 min. Evening: Climbing wall session 1 hrs 40 min bouldering and stamina circuits.
Tue   Run 43 min
Wed  Rest. Meal with future in laws. Bummer.
Thur  Climbing wall session. Bouldering 2 hrs. 5*10 fingerboard pullups.
Fri     Rest. Tired.
Sat   Short trad session. 2nd HS, Lead HVS and E1. 7/8 laps on an E4/E5 on top rope. Feel good physically but motivation low.
Sun  Forecast not great and tired from sat so go bouldering. Mistake as it turned out to be hot and humid. Did a 5c and tried a 7a before injuring my shoulder. Went home. Bollocks.
 
Glad to get outside again but pissed off with this showery weather. Can't seem to get any of my goals ticked at the minute and motivation is waning. Felt tired this week in the wall after a few heavy (for me) training weeks. Have a few family things coming up so next couple of weeks will be less intense and need a few days rest to let my shoulder heal. Hopefully will get some things ticked at my local crags in next 2 weeks followed by 3/4 weeks of hard training before heading to the verdon/buoux. Not good though and need to get my arse in gear.

[webbo]

Mon. wall good session repeated everything i've done first go.finger split across skin on first joint to wards the end.
Tue. nothing
Wed. nothing resting skin.
Thu.wall new problems.struggling at first then came good.probably started pulling hard too soon.
Fri. nothing.
Sat.wall spent ages trying a move with no success.them repeated everything from thurs.out on bike 1hr 10 mins including 8 x 5 min on 1 min off.windy as hell.
Sun. out on bike 3 hours flat battered by the wind.

Need to get some goals and lose weight.11 st 11lbs this morning.diet starts today.

[chris_j_s]

Weight: 62kg

Aims for 2010: rp 7b+ sport, o/s 6c+ sport, 7A+ boulder.
New STG: Keep to training plan in order to be ready for Kalymnos (12 weeks and counting)

M: a.m - Strength (hyp) session, 1 hour.
T: Rest Day
W: a.m - Strength session, 1 hour. p.m - Bouldering at Ingleton, good session.
T: Rest Day (diy)
F: p.m. Strength session - 45 mins.
S: Full day of building work - knackering!
S: a.m. Depot - good session, managed to flash a couple of V5/V6's, flashed a fr6c+ through the routes roof and did a massive volume of V3-V5's.  P.m. - more building work.

Forgotten how hard it is to get up early to fit in the strength sessions! Planning to do hypertrophy work for 5 weeks - my chosen exercise is 4 x 25-30sec hangs (2 handed) at 80-85% of max. Repeat several times for with differing holds and grips with 2 mins rest between hangs and 5 mins between sets. Comments welcome  regarding whether that sounds like an effective routine...

[nik at work]

8B, 8b+ (this has gone up because the route I want to do is 8b+, and also if your going to fail to achieve your goals they might as well be a bit harder)

M - Nothing
T - Nothing
W - Nothing
T - Board session with G, short and not impressive. Got a valuable lesson in silky footwork from the G-beast.
F - Nothing
S - Nothing
S - Nothing

It's still a mystery to me why I'm not a crushing beast of monsterness...

[andybfreeman]

Aims - as before

M - routes indoors, mileage session, felt ok

rest of week = nowt. A mix of work commitments duting the week then an ear infection at the weekend meant my week was a write off

Weight up to 68.5kg after a week of doing virtually nothing! need to get back to training/climbing this week before i get really fat

[Nibile]

here we go.
mon - weights, full session. good.
tue - top roping session, from 7b to 7c+. very good vibes.
wed - rest.
thu - rest.
fri - rest.
sat - top roping session. 7b, 7c+, 8a. (done, done, not done). good good vibes.
sun - beastmaker. 10x6. lots of volume, mainly did pull ups and lock offs instead of simple deadhangs. good.

comments.
the elbow is still not completely recovered, sadly, but it allows me to climb and to train almost at 100%. the thing with the rope is being fun, I go there and give everything a go, when I find a sequence too strange or technical I power it out. I also tried a 30 meters long 8a, but that was really too much...
I noticed improvements on the beast. last week the tests were encouraging.
I rested three days because I was hoping to climb in the Dolomites in the weekend, but as usual an argument with the other half made this impossible.
keep the faith.

[Three Nine]

Aims - as before

M - routes indoors, mileage session, felt ok

rest of week = nowt. A mix of work commitments duting the week then an ear infection at the weekend meant my week was a write off

Weight up to 68.5kg after a week of doing virtually nothing! need to get back to training/climbing this week before i get really fat

Board wed eve? Weather looks shite so we wont even feel dirty.

[andybfreeman]

Board wed eve? Weather looks shite so we wont even feel dirty.

Sounds good, but i might be busy on Wed but not sure yet, you free Thursday as well?

[chillax]

STG: E3
MTG: E4
LLTG: E7

Mon: Trip out to owey island off the coast of Donegal. Put up a new E1/2 onsight which was quite satisfying. Brief potter about at the wall in Derry.
Tues: zip
Wed: Beastmaker then first experience of surfing. Great fun! Will get more into it when I can afford a board.
Thurs: squat
Fri: Gym. Fairly intense, felt properly wrecked after.
Sat: Easy soloing and traversing at Ramore. Did a nice long highball traverse that would probably be worth HVS if it was another couple of metres off the deck. Good fun.
Sun: Beastmaker

Feels like onsight E3 is getting closer. I'll try and make it out to the head this week and hop on one of the easier ones to see how things are going.

[duncan]

STG: E3 (Dreadnought) by the end of the sumer
MTG: E5 by June 2011

M - Shoulder stability stuff
T - Shoulder stability stuff
W - Shoulder stability stuff
T - 20 mins easy ARCing
F - Nothing
S - Nothing
S - Portland low 6s sport mileage.  Felt completely thrashed, but this was first time on real rock for 6 weeks.  Sore bits not too sore, so onwards and upwards...

[Luthor]

Quiet week - routes at Foundry Tuesday then away Thurs until today at Latitude festival. Would like to say I feel rested...

[cmerch]

Goals: Have fun climbing!
Mon: Nothing
Tues: Rock Rings
Wed: Nothing
Thurs: Climb at Foster Falls, easy routes; 3 mile run
Fri: climb at Foster's; 3 mile run
Sat: Nothing
Sun: 4 mile run
Very slack week, foot hurt and overall bad attitude. Felt better going for run. Getting motivated for trip to North Carolina in Aug.

[Charles]

Wednesday: followed slab-master butterworthtom  up 3-pitch thin face nasty; various bouldering later

How is the skinny one? Haven't heard from him since he's been over there!

[Charles]

STG - Continue weight loss (goal = 154lbs)  > Onsight F7a > Improve Power Endurance
MTG - Get proper fit for Mallorca in September > Onsight F7b (Waikiki or Phantomas)
LTG - F8a

Monday - Rest
Tuesday - Rest
Wednesday - Stamina. Epic session. 40 pitches. Two peak sets of pyramid.
Thurday - Rest
Friday - Stamina. Only way to increase intensity was to go back to beginning but at higher grades. So this set = one pyramid, 6a, 6a+, 6b, 6a+, 6a. (all up, down, up w/10 mins rest).
Saturday - bouldered at Depot. Weak. Did F7a circuit.
Sunday - Fingerboard. Run.

Good week. Stamina phase is finished. Going into a power endurance phase with one stamina session a week to keep it topped up. Don't want to lose the gains I've made. According to my training diary I really struggled to complete the same stamina session I did on Friday after my mallorca trip last year. This means I'm fitter now (7 weeks before trip) than I was after I'd been climbing there for a week!

[andy popp]

Still can't climb.

Mon: nothing
Tues: good session of weighted pull-ups, increase max weights and sets again.
Wed: much better session on fingerboard
Thurs: swim 25x25m, another improvement on last week, leg feels better.
Fri-Sat: Paris for date
Sun: take daughter swimming, fit in a few lengths.

Overall, enough to feel I'm not turning into a complete pile of mush whilst injured.

Hi Curt, good to see you keeping the faith.

[nai]

stg - improve PE, onsight 7a.
mtg, further improve PE, RP 7c.
ltgs - 7C+, 8a, E4
 
M - A frustrating wet day at home with kids and inlaws, took myself away to do some pullups - 2,4,6,8,10,10,8,6,4,2, minute rest and pressups between sets.  Shouldn't have bothered.
T - Cornice, onsighted Up the River... (6c+), which is a PB.  Scraped up Whose Line....(7a+) 1st redpoint after giving up too easily on the OS attempt.
W - Poor night's sleep with youngest upset about something, felt shattered and very, very sore.
T - couple of hours pottering at Rubicon, had no snap, couldn't repeat problems I can usually do ok.  Traversed a lot.
F - Cornice, RP'd Martial Music (7a) after failing two moves from OSing previously.  Tried Big Zipper (7a+), OS ended where it gets harder and steeper and so did a RP attempt, but I did screw part of it up having not really learned the sequence on OS.
S - nowt.
S - expirimental PErepeater training, 30 low intensity hangs 7on - 3off over 5 minutes, rest 3.  Repeat 4 times.  Could be a half decent quicky workout with some more experimentation

  week, happy with the improved OS grade but slightly disappointed with Friday's session and not getting on anything harder.