[Barratt]

STG: Recovery
LTG: 7b

Mon: Rest
Tues: Rehab and weights set
Wed: Core and home board
Thur: Bouldering at Matrix, sore finger
Fri: Badminton with the misus
Sat: Rest
Sun: Bouldering @ works, very hungover
Mon: Bouldering @ Sean's roof and Raven Tor.

Another injury to add to the mix. Pulled something near bottom of ribs whilst at RT on Monday. So now its shoulder, finger and core that are all knackered! Still, could be worst...

[Dr T]

vSTG:Get back to speed after the Flu
STG: Get strong again (and lose weight)
LTG: Font early next year - be strong enough to kinda keep pace with Neil - collect a good handful of 7a to c problems along the way

(Sat: 1 hour on the 45 deg board)
(Sun: 1 hour on the 45 deg board - weighed in at 79 kg)
Mon: 1 hour on the 45 deg board
Tues: 45mins stretching, 1 hour jog
Wed: 30 mins stretching then FLU
Thur: FLU
Fri: Drove to Lincolnshire to visit the in-laws (with FLU)
Sat: In-laws (wiped out)
Sun: In-laws (feeling better)
(Mon: Drove back from the Flatlands)
(Tues: weighed in at 76.9kg -3 hour session on school wall - started light then built up to about 6c, felt physically ok but stamina-wise week - depending on condition of skin might beastmaker later)

[Falling Down]

M - 30 minute trail/hill run + 1 hour P/E 25kg DB & Core routine
W - Routes at Embankment. Warmed up on Prawnography (6c) & dogged then had a redpoint go at Barracuda Bass Sound 7a+ powerful & tricky then the heavens opened.
T - 45 minute hill/trail run

F, S, S - Nowt. Family commitments, poor weather, wedding party, and knackeredness prevailed having been to Aberdeen and London during the week for work and working 'til 10pm Friday.

Felt pretty good Wednesday evening and I reckon I would've got BBS next go had it not absolutely peed it down.  Clear weekend this one coming so hopeful for some trad 'n sport.

New STG:Redpoint 7b End of August. Lead E3.
MTG’s (End 2010) – Redpoint 7b+ (Sturgeon/Lightweight/Body Machine) & Onsight E5 (Right Wall or White Wall or Positron)
VLTG’s – Redpoint 8b, Boulder 8a, Onsight E6

[SA Chris]

STG - get some fitness back
MTG get down to 13 1/2 stone again
LTG - get soem climbing fitness back

M- Went swimming with R & K, did about 5 length, lame.
T- Walked to work and back - 1 hr
W- Walked to work and back - 1 hr
T - Walked to work and back - 1 hr
F - Walked to work and back - 1 hr
S- Nowt
S - Nowt

Weight = 14st 2 1/4, back up two pounds on previous week. Arse.

[petejh]

 

Desperate route. Nice work.

Cheers Mr Shark! My first 7c, but a classic line at any grade. Feels good. 
Ever done Parasite or Mussel Beach? Not been able to check them out properly yet because of the weather.

[shark]

Cheers Mr Shark! My first 7c, but a classic line at any grade. Feels good. 
Ever done Parasite or Mussel Beach? Not been able to check them out properly yet because of the weather.

Unfinished business for me - I put a lot of time into it in the past and reckon its 7c+. Up to you but in your shoes I would skip the fillers-in and get on Statement.

[Ru]

M: Work
T: Work
W: Went to Seans Roof in the evening. I wasn't on fire.
T: Can't remember. Oh, yes, work
F: No climbing at any rate
S: Tricked by my other half into going to Ikea. I still can't believe it.
S: Rubicon. No idea why we went here. Warm, muggy, shit. Failed on everything.

[lagerstarfish]

Ru,

[Ru]

S: Rubicon. No idea why we went here. Warm, muggy, shit. Failed on everything.

Actually I do know why we went here, we didn't fancy mud-skiing down to the cornice.

Ikea was a mistake. I hate the place. A trip there never ends well as I behave like a sulky 12 year old all the way round.

[Doylo]

As i'm currently in training mode gonna wade in to find some more inspiration:

STG: Improve Strength/PE
MTG: Diamond Proj
LTG: Be stronger/fitter next year (8b+/c)

M - Good sesh down Pidgeons Cave with Pete R. Tried Neil Carsons 8a Stark (only route down there with safe bolts). Brilliant PE route but felt hard hard hard.  Good wake up call. Robins pathed (obviously).
T - Old mans crag (with old man).  Bit of cleaning stuff etc.. Tried my bolted project. Holds are too small, might give this one away. 
W - Mill, very weak.
T- Rest
F - Mill, bouldering to start (might aswell) then tried my 40 move Diamond replica (although in reality its probably easier), got pretty close. Love that feeling of not being able to hold onto easyish moves, similar sensation to my proj last year so hopefully will do me some good.  Dismayed with Patxi doing 2000 moves on a steep board in Progression.
S - Active rest. Bramble Butress V-diff, Tremadog with the missus. Ended up having to downclimb some of it to retrieve Friends that she couldn't release. I did show her how to do it!!!!
S - Mill again. Still weak but circuit combinations going well.  Not as good on long one but better at lapping 7b+.  Managed the 8a one that i set a while ago. Not really long enough to do that much good for PE but a confidence boost after watching Caff and Pete lapping it.

Upping the ante in the Mill was good, hopefully if i keep to the plan i'll have a happy ending!

[Monolith]

Need to tighten my game plan up too...

STG's: Get back moving after months of bare activity. Lots of route volume to induce muscles.
MTG's: Get boulder project done in Sep/Oct when cooler temps.
LTGS: Was going to write something like Mecca but just watched a video of Andy Harris on it falling at end. Realised he's on home turf. Hmmm. Something have to work hard for will come to mind in time I'm sure.


Mon - Rest. Tried to think of some additional goals.
Tue - Rest. Continued thinking. Slightly harder this time.
Weds - Fingerboard. Simulated clipping and maximal timed hangs.
Thurs - Rest. Filled out worlds biggest scholarship application. Very boring.
Fri - Fingerboard. Small rung time to get used to it again. Powerpulls too.
Sat - Rest.
Sun - Went to Llanddulas with the Don. Had ace time and both of us had mild whitey on warmups in new sector (for us). Got on Mudjekeewis. Don did it promptly and I realised it would be fine if I can just increase my lactic threshold. Very happy.


A nice week all in all. Saw girlfriend a lot and found a bizzare level of psyche for routes. Getting used to it slowly.
Devised a simulated clipping routine on the fingerboard since taking one hand off to clip seems to increase the pump twentyfold. This has usually been the prevailing factor for putting me off routes. Keen to work past this.

I suppose Mudjekeewis is a MTG but depends on time needed to develop PE. Be nice if it became an STG but don't care, love the Dulas!

Not sure how long 'long term' is? I'd really like in ten years to have some hard tick to be proud. Very motivated to see certain forum members holding down very reputable professions as well as climbing hard.

[Richie Crouch]

STG: In Hell
MTG: Octopussy, Cote De Seshuan, Astronautfieber
LTG: Halfway House, Clyde & T Crack, sport 8a

Mon: Rest
Tue: Cave, good session regaining some boulder fitness repeating easy stuff, couple redpoints on In Hell to move before last pocket, go on Cave life with feet missing left wall and grease off.
Wed: Rest
Thu: Rest & antagonist elbow exercises
Fri: Indoor session, felt a bit crap and failed on a V5/6 on step wall
Sat: Rest & antagonist elbow exercises
Sun: Indoor session, felt much better and did everything first try on Step wall

Bit of a gently breaking back into bouldering this week after having played on some sport routes the last 3 weeks to let my left arm recover and pain to leave the body.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals: Hard F7b+, Easy F7c, F8a before 2014.

M: Morning Yoga - Failed to do weights, 10 reps both arms @ 14kg - give up and go to bed...
T: Bouldering @ The Works - New reds, nice!
W: Morning yoga - Evening weights, 4 x 10 reps both arms @ 14 kg, frenchies, 100 pressups, 100 sits, leg raises... Bushed!
T: PE session @ The works - Green F6c 4 x back to back - 10 mins rest and repeat 4 times. managed 11 full circuits out of 16... Utterly destroyed...
F: Cant quite hold a pen...
S: Easy bouldering @ Birchins...
S: Drive to Cornwall.

Good week.. Put the hours in. Gotta keep it up but away next week in Bude so will probably just do yoga and surf unless this weather clears...

:D

[Richie Crouch]

My memory is terrible. I actually went to Woodwell on Saturday and climbed a bit, managed a couple old nemesi' from years ago and then got repeatedly shut down on the last couple moves on not bad dave after finding the steep bit ok. I think from the polished ledge it is a bit harsh for 6a?!

[Monolith]

Richie, I just love the fact that T Crack is still a LTG!? You need to take a drive over there as soon as rain subsides and sort that out.

[JohnM]

Fr 8a shouldn't be a LTG either Rich.  A few sessions on a bouldery PE 8a should see that goal ticked!