Lesser known Magic Wood, Susten and Gotthardo (Read 14716 times)

Richie Crouch · July 18, 2010, 11:38:50 am

I just remember watching a few Finn's working on it lasttime there and it looked a bit of a spicy finish (direct) with the landing needing a fair few pads. I imagine the slinking off right at the top avoids this scarier proposition and hence gets 7c+. Looks fairly clear in the swiss bloc photo but didn't pull on.

Some strong fella does rythmo Brachial in this vid, first problem:

hth

Stubbs · July 18, 2010, 12:07:10 pm

Fight Club is going down this year!

Paul B · July 18, 2010, 12:29:45 pm

Quote from: Stubbs on July 18, 2010, 12:07:10 pm

Fight Club is going down this year!

Can someone explain the difference I can't work it out from the topo?

Richie Crouch · July 18, 2010, 12:43:51 pm

Difference with what? I thought you just did Dopeshow start then do a big shouldery move across into some flakes and finish up Valentine's day. I found it was desperate to avoid scraping/brushing the blocks behind so sacked it. It would be a great line if there were no blocks right behind you.

Paul B · July 18, 2010, 12:46:08 pm

All I had was the topo, a "b,c" on top of each other doesn't really make it clear whats what. I do not have masses of magic knowledge.

Stubbs · July 18, 2010, 01:03:49 pm

Fight Club traverses into Valentines Day from the sit start to the right. Richie I think it's probably easier not to dab at 5'7" than it is at your 6'?" !

Jim · July 18, 2010, 01:20:23 pm

i think avoiding the block behind you makes it more shouldery and powerfull and therefore better. never could do valentines day so couldn't finish fight club off

Andy B · July 18, 2010, 02:54:03 pm

Sorry Rich, I'm probably being thick here, but I'm still not sure about the difference between R and RB. I can't see any rightward escape possibilities in that vid?

Quote from: Stubbs on July 18, 2010, 01:03:49 pm

Fight Club traverses into Valentines Day from the sit start to the right. Richie I think it's probably easier not to dab at 5'7" than it is at your 6'?" !

Never give the lankies excuses Tim! especially bearing in mind that this problem finishes with a crux massive reach.

Fightclub is really dabby through the middle though.

That's something that frustrated me a bit when I was in Magic: the number of people taking dodgy ticks, starting one or two moves into problems, crouch starting sit starts and claiming problems with massive dabs.

Stubbs · July 18, 2010, 03:09:54 pm

We'll just take the extremely annoying American approach this year and just shout DAB! really loud when a crime is committed.

Andy B · July 18, 2010, 03:31:53 pm

and when it's a huge Scandinavian dragging his legs along the floor after starting half way up, I'm going to stand behind you and shout it.

Richie Crouch · July 18, 2010, 03:35:35 pm

The best one we saw was an absolutely massive spanish guy (who looked like a beast )prematurely celebrating on King Kong before he had reached the top... only to lose all co-ordination, flail and fall off. Most amusing!

There is a superb video somewhere of a guy with a bad ponytail on a dabtastic ascent of Fight Club. Couldn't believe he took it

Andy B · July 18, 2010, 05:35:26 pm

Can anyone say what the first problem and the problem at about 7:00 on this vid are?

Jim · July 18, 2010, 06:19:01 pm

first problem is opposite and up a bit from protector down near the bruno

Andy B · July 18, 2010, 07:28:38 pm

Nice one. Is it any good/ worth doing?

old cheese · July 18, 2010, 08:00:44 pm

Andy,

trieste gottardo at gottard worth seeking out for the stand up or sit down, some may think it a tad soft but i believe it is benchmark for 8a

. excellent 6c/7a on same block called ecstasy i think, a bit grit!

Jim · July 18, 2010, 08:48:23 pm

Quote from: Andy B on July 18, 2010, 07:28:38 pm

Nice one. Is it any good/ worth doing?

looks better on video than it is. we didn't spend long on it. ug flashed it

BenF · July 19, 2010, 08:06:14 am

Quote from: dobbin on July 17, 2010, 10:41:24 pm

Can't remember who told me, but apparently sustenpass is majorly log.

I remember Nige or Doylo or Greg C or someone telling me how crap Susten was, so it could have been one of them as he did really hate the palce with a passion. He was kind of right in my opinion too, however I did find a few decent problems and its a really very beautiful place, especially with a bit of snow about. I was climbing routes up there so the bouldering was a bit of a diversion and I wouldn't drive all that way over there just to boulder. But if you're passing its worth a quick look as its pretty roadside. I did a handful of decent 7a-b things and tried a cool 7c right by a stream quite far up from the road. Grades were a bit all over the place but I expected that as I was using the Blocheart random grade generator guidebook.

dave · July 19, 2010, 08:42:00 am

Quote from: BenF on July 19, 2010, 08:06:14 am

Quote from: dobbin on July 17, 2010, 10:41:24 pm
Can't remember who told me, but apparently sustenpass is majorly log.

I remember Nige or Doylo or Greg C or someone telling me how crap Susten was

Doyle told me it was "shite".

Richie Crouch · July 19, 2010, 09:35:00 am

The problem being tried at 7:00ish could be the bizarre ride but thats a bit of a guess just from a photo and that vid clip where you can't really see much!

BenF · July 19, 2010, 09:47:23 am

Quote from: dave on July 19, 2010, 08:42:00 am

Quote from: BenF on July 19, 2010, 08:06:14 am
Quote from: dobbin on July 17, 2010, 10:41:24 pm
Can't remember who told me, but apparently sustenpass is majorly log.

I remember Nige or Doylo or Greg C or someone telling me how crap Susten was

Doyle told me it was "shite".

I've thought about it and it was Nige AND Doylo wot said it.

Andy B · July 19, 2010, 10:52:45 am

Sounds like Susten Pass is off the agenda then.

Nigel · July 19, 2010, 11:34:29 am

Confirmed. Its an absolutely beautiful place - hanging valley, alpine meadow, big glacier, high up, mountain peaks, quiet, roadside, cafe at parking. Definitely stop in if passing, but don't travel there, the climbing is frankly like one of the shitter areas in Wales or the Lakes.

Greg knows loads more about quieter areas in the Alps so hopefully he will see this thread.

monkey boy · July 19, 2010, 12:16:14 pm

Body count is pretty cool although you cant use the massive foot ledge on the right hand side. The climbing is fun and it stays quite cool. Its between pura vida and bruno block on the right hand side if you are walking up the hill.

There is a 7c+ called boxenluder which is suppose to be very basic (as in campussing on crimps) but really cool. Its way up the hill behind new base line. There are videos of it are you tube but cant think off the top of my head which video it is on, you can do the searching!!

There is a new 8a+ called bizarre ride however I dont know what it is, have heard its cool though. Have emailed someone to find out info on it.

Will see you before you go and explain the difference between R and RB, its stupid really!

Andy B · July 19, 2010, 12:21:43 pm

Now that's what I'm talking about.

Cheers Cheekbones.

The Sausage · July 19, 2010, 12:55:04 pm

Morning Andy, Morning everybody. What a beautiful day it is out there today.

Me & Vics spent a few days up at San Gotthard. It's a pretty crazy place, as it's owned by the military and there's a lot of hardware and bunkers and stuff. Like an alpine martial slate quarries. The bouldering is OK, nothing like as good as Magic Wood of Cresciano. And it's quite a drive. We were up there in a HEATWAVE and conditions were pretty bloody good. It got cooler on our last day (would still have been high 20's in Cresciano), and it was proper Baltic.

I wouldn't go back, unless I was passing. Which seems unlikely. We've got the guide if you want to borrow it.

Plus, need to drop the barrow back. Will try and do it this week. I've got a couple of logs (?) you might want for your wood burner too.

Joe