[cofe]

this is right as i understand it:



(sorry for trashing your pic word)

[north_country_boy]

What about the combo of WW and V4"V7" without the crimp up and right of sloper and straight up to juggy rail from middle of WW traverse (after matching sloper and using pinch in middle of traverse)..... this felt nearer V7 than V4, maybe the crimp is crucial at that grade?

(For WW, it seems i did correctly, finishing around the arete on the slab, traversing at same height as Cofe)

[Pantontino]

Cofe, further to our conversation yesterday, the lad who did the first ascent of Little Richard was Richard Hughes. I used to work with him at DR Climbing Walls. I think it was about '94 when we were there. I've got some scribbles on the topo in my old OTE Bouldering in the Peak District guide. He did the direct line (I wrote 7a? next to it), and I did an easier sds to the right, moving up to make a higher right to left traverse; can't remember if this was an eliminate - probably not though. Not sure how that fits with your descriptions? Maybe the green V4? I say maybe, because I've marked the start as being different to Wallnut Whip, i.e. further left.

[cofe]

What about the combo of WW and V4"V7" without the crimp up and right of sloper and straight up to juggy rail from middle of WW traverse (after matching sloper and using pinch in middle of traverse)..... this felt nearer V7 than V4, maybe the crimp is crucial at that grade?

]
yeah that would make sense i reckon. although i think the v4 is the more obvious/natural line.

panton - cheers word.

[dave]

I occured to me whilst idley sat in a meeting this week that a "good" (for this boulder at least) linkup might be to start as for little richard, but before going to the jugs reverse the WW to the big round boss sloper, then finish straight up via the little hold on the green problem sans jugs, probably with a little mantel action. would probably be about 7a+ish, aught to be harder then WW, i suggest it be called "I whipped a my walnut whilst choking my little richard". All that remains is for it to be climbed. Send any claims to me on written on a fiver.

[Andy B]

I suggest that you focus on your work whilst in meetings.

It would be more productive.

[(woz)]

How about a font style training circuit: The choker, into little richard, reverse WW to the big sloper, and then back down the Choker... I propose "East Choker" 8?

Seriously, Dave's suggestion doesn't sound half bad (to me at least). I for one don't think this boulder is as bad as you are all making out.

[a dense loner]

that obviously says more about you than anyone else woz. there's just been a discussion about 2 moves different, armpits apart. the lines even look wank, and are

[(woz)]

I never said that it wasn't wank. Just that IMO it was less wank than people were saying. Maybe this has something to do with the fact that, as they are my local crags, I grew up at Baslow and Curbar. They are my friends.

[Somebody's Fool]

Being local does have a blinkering effect.  You should see some of the 'wank' problems a dense loner has climbed near where he lives.  And some of them have been done before.  Fancy that. 

[a dense loner]

you a funny guy

[a dense loner]

ps. yes i have climbed a fair few wank probs, that's how i know wank when i see it 

[ferret]

ok havin done all these problems heres my 2peneth

little richard 2 move wonder quite nice bout right at 7aish

walnut whip nice climbing but if u want a tick anywhere near 7b+ u need to eliminate the high good sloper n just use the sideways facing crimps

the choker total dogshit line but with some good movement can be dry wen other places r wet if u hav the right wind hence y i did it probably soft at 7c+ but no easier

[Barratt]

Post search I thought it most appropriate to continue this thread rather than start another.

Went to look at WW yesterday and whilst we figured out the easy start and last moves, was coming unstuck on the hard middle moves, namely coming into and out of the opposing small crimpy things.

Any beta on these couple of moves would be appreciated.

Course it could be that I'm just not strong enough! 

[Andy B]

On the left hand gaston crimp, don't crimp it, but instead use your thumb on the edge and drag the sloper above it. This makes life much less powerful and you can hang left off it and match in on the other crimp easier.

Hope that helps.

[Barratt]

That's soot on Andy, thanks!

Justnlooking at the image further up, that seems to be exactly what Dave is doing.

So from there I'm thinking you're going to have to move the feet off the rail to avoid being too stretched out?

[Andy B]

Either from that move or the one after, swing your feet round and sit on your left.

That ain't Dave in the photo.

[Barratt]

Thanks fella