[shark]

Goal: Oak. 10,000 8a nu points
Weight: 11.1-3

M.
T.Eve. Cornice. Ace links on K3 including 3rd bolt to top.
W.Comprehensive strength session but stopped midway thru weights session as lower back felt tweaky.*
T.Back got worse. Went to physio. Felt worse going out than coming in. Drank a lot with my dad.
F.
S. Cornice. Good links including best link from ground to settting up for last lurch on traverse. Back felt much improved at end and bruised tip didnt seem too much of a problem on first move.
S. Cornice. Short visit. Didn't do much.

Pleased weather has cooled down a bit. Excited by progress this week on K3, the end seems to be in sight. Weight range is good too. Good to climb with Toby at last  Roll on this week...
 
* Edit. Just remembered somehow at end of the session managed 8 french pull-ups - a PB
 

[Three Nine]

Goals as usual, with the ST priority being to sort out the onsighting and be onsighting UK 7bs.

M cave hole circuit AM, onsighted boulder prob 7a+ and pottering, pm did laws traverse a few times, felt tired
T rest, cardio 30 min run
W am: deadhangs, v mediocre and sleepy. 1 hour. pm: 1.5 hours power 45, felt shit and unmotivated
T pm: fucking sore, but 1.5 hours power 45, felt shit
F big 6s milage day in the wye valley
S 1 hour technique drills on 15 deg board before wedding. felt ruined. dont understand why. wedding, ate loads. never getting married.
S rest. more wedding nonsense. ate bodyweight in party food. maybe it will restore me. elbow sore. everything hurts.

[Barratt]

STG: Recovery
LTG: 7b

Mon: Rehab and weights set
Tues: Bit of everything at Works. Looked and benchmark motherboard prob, a way to go yet
Wedy: 4 mile run, first run for a long time
Thur: Comp wall session at Works
Fri: Brief session at Langdale and got the two ticks I wanted
Sat: 10 mile walk round Ambleside followed by short session at kentmere, no new ticks, felt tired.
Sun: Rain, lots of rain. Travel home, eat takeaway.

Another good week in terms of quality and quantity. Starting to feel a bit fitter now and I'm able to push the shoulder a lot more than I thought. The feeling of being strong isn't far off looking forward to a good week ahead...

[chris05]

M: 4m run, core, press-ups, pullups and arms
T: 40l swim & core
W: 6m run & core
T: 4m run, 40l swim & core
F: 40l swim
S: short bouldering session at rubicon
S: short bouldering session at gardoms north

A fairly good week for fitness, good to be back swimming. Getting a bit frustrated with my climbing at the moment, really want to get back to training properly and moving up through the grades. Fingers and elbows are improving (hopefully). Have been eating well and losing weight so feeling quite light.

[tomtom]

STG 7B+

M: nothing
T: Kentmere - Badgered by a bull, managed a couple of things - unsatisfied...
W: nowt
Th: Rubicon - good first play on Peak lime.. felt good and tired afterwards
Fr: Ached from Thurs
Sa: Quality 2-3 hours exploring Harmers Wood http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,15467.0.html
Su: rest

A better week. Still feeling fat. Hopefully get back to the cliff next week and see how those projects are coming along...

[iain]

STG: Scottish holiday, the cuillin traverse and (finger's crossed) time on old project
MTG: Onsight 7b regularly
LTG: Infinite Gravity and Freaky Ralph

Mon: Yoga, fingerboard and repeaters, felt good
Tues: 6 mile run and tried ARC'ing but wall is like a sauna, not pleasant. Debating whether to give this up till it cools down
Wed: Fingerboard
Thurs: Yoga and fingerboard
Fri: Yoga and repeaters
Sat: Great day pottering about in the sun eating cake
Sun: Another attempt to get on State of Play. Conditions were great initially, unfortunately the waves had other ideas. After my third soaking we bailed from that belay. Onsighted 2 very short and bouldery 7a's, then so very nearly did a 7b but holds had gotten properly manky in the spray. Confident I would have done it in good conditions.

Think I've finally learned what to look for to get good conditions on State of Play (and other project), will not go back until there's a good forecast.
Getting very tired of not having a good wall nearby, it's a real struggle to get motivated for the fingerboard at the mo. It should be supplemental, not my main source of training.


Good photos Tomtom, looks like a lovely place. No photos of the bull badgering?

[roddersm]

STG Goals(2010):

Trad: Onsight several routes E1-E3. Headpoint E5 project.
Boulder: Work some problems at Fairhhead 7a+-7c+. Split arete 6b+/E4.
sport: Onsight at least f7a in Verdon or Buoux.

LTG's:
Trad: E5 o\s
Sport: Onsight 7b. rp 7c.
Boulder: At least 7C .

Mon  Rest
Tue   Top rope E5 project and an E4 in rain.
Wed  Run 50 min.
Thur  Climbing wall session. Bouldering 1.5 hrs. 5*10 pullups on fingerboard.
Fri     Rest
Sat   Bouldering at Fairhead. Warm on a 5c and do a 7a a couple of times before it rains. 
Sun  Morning: Climbing wall session 1.5 hrs bouldering. Afternoon: Run 40 min followed by 2 sets of frenchies wearing 10lb weight belt. 1 set of lock offs. 2*10 pullups(weighted) and 20 pushups.
 
Shit weather this week. Hoped to get on lead on my project by it was soaked on tuesday. Got a short bouldering session in on saturday and managed Chubbs Peterson a tough 7a a couple of times in damp conditions, which is good for me as this problem seemed desperate for a while. 2 good climbing wall sessions. Need to start thinking about upping the training for Verdon/Buoux at end of august but still hope to get a few good trad days if I can get the weather.

[petejh]

Goal - VIII, 8a, 8A, E8, in 2010.
At - IX, 7b+, 7B, E5.
Goal for July - Bad Bad Boy (LPT), Foil/Quasar/Stroll On in a day (pass).

m. nowt.
t. Sent my new route, YYFY! Senior Citizen Smith, Gideon.
w. First session on Bad Bad Boy. Got the top half worked out.
t. nowt.
f. Tradding at Craig y Don, OS'd my first E5.
s. nowt.
s. Power endurance at indi, 4x4 on v4,v3,v2,v3. Replicates BBB quite well.

Good week getting the proj, finally starting BBB and os'ing an E5. Super psyched for BBB, firstly because it's such a good route but also because it's the final step before getting on the 8a.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals: Some hard F7b+'s and a F7c then a F8a (before I get too fat and old - reckon 2014).

M: Morning yoga. Eve weights session, biceps mainly - 4 sets of 10 reps 14kg each arm, french pullups, 3 sests 20 pressups, 100 situps..
T: Short boulder @ Stoney - Made progress but everything was a bit sweaty, did some traversing and undercut work.
W: Morning Yoga.
T: Short boulder @ The works - Sweatbox! Did about 20 of the new purple spots. Good problems.
F: Rest.
S: Tried to go to the cornice but couldn't get parked! Ended up at beginners wall again. Tried middle age spread twice - Found it desperate! Had another go on Beginners wall, much better than my previous goes, just wish I'd not got on the previous route as was a bit powered out. Does seem a viable proposition now which is reassuring!
S: Watch Ondra ... Gave up climbing

Good week. Did lots, feeling a bit stronger. Need to get to 2 tier and the cornice soon but feeling that I'm actually making some progress and the finger's not too bad. WTF is going on with Ondra? Guy's a beast!

:D

[Nibile]

mixed week.
mon - weights. full session, not very powerful after the weekend's climbing, but decent. improving.
tue - toproping session. progress on the 8a+, the lower part is wired, still have to sort a sequence out for the top. will go.
wed - rest.
tue - palio. alcohol and friends.
fri - palio. friends and alcohol.
sat - rest. chilled at a friend's pool.
sun - beastmaker session. i still did my 10"x6 routine, but wanted to spice things up a bit, so i divided the six sets of each hold, alternating one set deadhanging and one set doing five pull ups still in 10". i couldn't do the pull ups on every hold (ex. the slopey monos and the back two) and for the three sets as decided, but i can see improvments. good workout, did a total of eleven different grips, so more than 10 minutes deadhanging and around 140-160 pullups.
the elbow was a bit sore after, but with some ice it went well during the night without any antiinflammatory.
keep the faith.

[shark]

S: Watch Ondra ... Gave up climbing

This had precisely the opposite effect on my sons who came home, put their boots on and bouldered on my board.

Re the Cornice - I counted 50 people at one stage. (nearly as crowded as Chee Tor in 1987)

BTW 4 days on is more than you normally do - nice one - keep at it.

[SA Chris]

Well I'm back in the game. Weekly weigh in on wednesday last week was an almighty 14st 3 1/2 lbs, almost a stone above my previously acceptable limit..                     

And so - STG - get some fitness back
MTG get down to 13 1/2 stone again
LTG - get soem climbing fitness back

W- Walked to work and back - 1 hr
T - Walked to work and back - 1 hr
F - half hour of "hills with pushchair"
S- walked for hour and a half on beach carrying small child in backpack. Surprisingly tiring
S - Mountain Bike for hour and a half in pissing rain, and mostly into a headwind.

[chris_j_s]

Weight: 61kg

Aims for 2010: rp 7b+ sport, o/s 6c+ sport, 7A+ boulder.

M: Rest day.
T: Bouldering at Castlebergh. Good session - definitely making gains - but still not completed my personal project there.
W: Rest Day.
T: Routes at Castlebergh. Routes up to 6c. Got on a 7a (2nd best line there - very good) and did it in overlapping sections (with one fall between). Didn't have tme for a second go.
F: V. low on time so did one set of my extended 'burner' in 7mins 58secs.
S: Got up early doors to boulder at Castlebergh. Of no particular interest to anyone apart from me but finally did the FA of a boulder problem I've been trying. Suddenly understand the difficulty of pinning a grade on something but probably either 6C+ or maybe even 7A so very pleased with that.
Rest of the weekend was at a 30th birthday party but did manage a 5 mile run on Sunday evening.

Spent way too much time at Castlebergh this week, but it is ultra convenient and when time is short having it 5 mins away means I can do something rather than nothing...

Definitely have the feeling that I'm on a slight downward trend at the moment and need some fresh stimulus to keep improving. However, I'm in a quandry about which way to go and feeling overwhelmed by training-related information overload. Hopefully the way will become clear if I give it some more thought this week - the aim is to be in tip top shape for steep long routes with a two week Kalymnos trip coming up in mid October.

[andybfreeman]

STG - boulder 7B/+, onsight 7a,
MTG - RP 7c+/8a, either just revenge or cider soak, keep progressing with bouldering
LTG - climb 8a and 7C consistently

No posts for a few weeks so catch up time

18th - 26th June = Siurana climbing with my brother

Loads of mileage in 6s and 7a. Red pointed 7b+ (bistec du bicep) after misreading the sequence on the onsight.  Onsighted 6c, climbed 7a second go too many times! 7 days on.

26th - 27th June = Barcelona. Awesome tapas feast with Simon and Dan (tapas 24, highly recommended!), lots of good wine and a late night. Left Barca earlyish to drive to Albarracin in time for the England game and a massive electrical storm

28th June - 4th July = Albarracin with Simon and Dan

Again loads of mileage. Covered lots of areas and climbed a few 7As and 7A+s. Failed on some nice 7B and 7B+s that might have gone with some more attention and skin but we weren't really there to project any one problem for long. Left with no skin at all so a few days rest is now in order. 7 days on but some short days because of rain

Weight up to 67.5 but we did eat 2 dry cured hams so that was expected!

[Bonjoy]

Yeah, sorry I wasn't more chatty. Didn't hear what Simon shouted up to me properly so didn't really figure who you were until you'd gone. That and I was dangling 30ft up in the air.   

[nai]

Stg - Sardine, onsight 7a
mtg - 7c (toadside  or sturgeon maybe?)
ltg - 7Cish blocs


T - first Tor session ever (aside from a couple of crap attempts at bouldering), worked Sardine and did ok, found all the moves straightforward, feel like a RP is possible but endurance a problem.
W - crap attempt at circuits, stopped because it was hurting my fingers.  Decent ARC session instead then tried bouldering but it was far too hot by then.
T - Chevin & Almscliff tradding <= HVS with an old mate.  Very enjoyable
F - first time at the Cornice - went with high expectations after Tuesday which were quickly grounded, managed a 7a RP and 6c onsight.  Good to get a first sport tick of the year decade century
SS - nada

Good week for both climbing and helping assess where I am and might be able to get to, hence the specific goals at last.  Psyched to get back to the Tor now.

[Luthor]

STG - Gain more experience sport climbing (F7's), find some new projects :-)
MTG - Consolidate V7/V8 (Winter / Grit :-)
LTG - F8a

M:
T: Bouldering session at Works - comp wall problems
W: The Cornice (WCJ) - tried a new route (F7a+) and got it by end of session!
T: Bouldering session at Works - comp wall problems
F:
S: Horseshoe Quarry. tried a F7a on main wall and got it second go, after working out how to do crux.
S:

Another good week with two new sport routes ticked. Not doing much training at the moment but enjoying getting out climbing :-)

[uptown]

it's the final step before getting on the 8a.

Which one have you chosen out of interest Pete?
Good luck for BBB this week.

I had a useful yet busy week:

LTGs  - New high 8 bloc, sport and trad - uncertain of grades but all very hard, and very good. 8c (2010/11)
MTGs - The dirty dozen sport list (2010)
STGs - one off the DD, An extreme rock tick or POC tick (This month) Route fitness (this week)

Mon - nowtup.
Tues - nowtup.
Wed - Kilnsey, for mad dog, an Englishman (and Nik) - Far too hot, in the sun since 5am. The perfect day not to go on something like Dalliance, though it's all just fun really, Quick fixe next.
Thurs - Kilnsey at a more 'forgiving' time with Creamtime - China Crisis 7c+. Great route.
Fri - 45 minutes stretching/pre-natal yoga, I develop a 40 degree temperature in the evening. Shiver-shake.
Sat - Probable nursery-born illness subsides towards the evening. Was going to go for a run today too.
Sun - Cornice. Felt pants. Monumentally shut-down by monumental climbing. Great crowd.

Second time I've kind-of climbed properly for 3 days in a week in at least a decade, again enjoyable - this week has made me appreciate how hard my goals will be to reach.
Easier week next.

[cmerch]

Goal: beat the heat this summer
Mon: 5 mile run and a few pull-ups
Tues: indoor bouldering at Urban Rocks, onsight two V5's, also cut grass
Wed: 4 mile run and Rock Rings
Thurs: 6 mile run
Fri: 2 mile run
Sat: putt around the lake on boat and eat and drink beer to celebrate the 4th of July(our independence day)
Sun: more of the same
Good mileage on runs, felt good on the indoor wall, finger is tweaked a little

[webbo]

Mon.arm and shoulder very sore.not sure if i've managed to injure myself painting the shed.out on bike 2 hours.
Tue.not as sore today.wall very warm just repeat stuff doing problems twice.
Wed.nowt other than put shopping away and drink wine.
Thu.wall even hotter.do repeats again i.e. doing 5 problems 3 times each.reasonable workout.
Fri. nowt but wine and food.
Sat.out on bike 3hrs 20 mins hilly.felt quite good for once.
Sun.take daughter to work in york.then to leeds wall good session manage 2 problems i couldn't do last time and flash all the others i did on my last visit.drive to warrington to visit mother.then back to york to pick daughter up from work.

[Andy F]

Goal - get some quick ticks in the mid-high 7's. Long term GA, COTC, GBH.

Tues - Awesome. Volume bouldering, good to know I hadn't lost much as I repeated all the stuff I could do before the baby was born.

Thurs - good 1 hr fingerboard session. Lots of repeaters, deadhangs and pull-ups

Sun - Kilnsey. Usual warm up then put clips in The Jekyll (7c/+). Found the moves ok and got some good links. Should go next session. Stamina still below where it should be for the time of year, but coming back.

[chillax]

STG (by the end of the summer): E3
MTG (by the end of next year): E4
VLLTG: E7

Mon: recover from saturday.
Tues: Travel back to the north
Wed: Good weights and core session, utterly wasted after.
Thurs: nowt
Fri: zip
Sat: Wet afternoon at the Head. Led a rough little VS, a lovely HVS and thrutched up an old-school E1 offwidth (Thunderhips). Probably the hardest pitch I've led at Fair Head.
Sun: Nada

Work for the masters is starting to take over so I'm just going to have to steal whatever climbing days I can and try to make the most of them. Quite happy to tick Thunderhips as I didn't think I'd do it. Keen for some more slot-squirming action, just have to find someone to climb with who has a couple of cams of size 4 and up! The goal of E3 at the Head is feeling closer, and the finger/hand cracks always feel easier than the wider ones. Might hop on one next time I'm up to see how I'm doing. Maybe GBH, Salango or Jolly Rodger. Til then its all work and training.

[Charles]

At last, I can post with a smidegeon of pride!

STG - Get weight back down > Get stamina up > Onsight previous best sport route (F6c+)
MTG - Get proper fit for Mallorca in September > Onsight F7b (Waikiki or Phantomas)
LTG - F8a

Monday - Stamina at Leeds Wall. Pyramid training with 10 mins rest inbetween. One peak set.
Tuesday -
Wednesday -
Thursday - Stamina at Leeds Wall. Pyramid training with 10 mins rest inbetween. Two peak sets (27 pitches!)
Friday -
Saturday -
Sunday - Hour bouldering at the Depot (didn't turn up til 5 and it closed at 6!) Confirmed my suspicions that I am fat. Burnt off by brother for first time since he got a real job.

'Tis nice to be doing proper training again. Felt massive gains between stamina sessions. Psyched for Mallorca!

Still drinking too much though. Alcohol Free Week from 5th -  11th!

[petejh]

Which one have you chosen out of interest Pete?
Good luck for BBB this week.

Cheers! I'm going to try Mussel Beach - supposedly a proper soft touch at the grade but I'll try to put that to the back of my mind as I'm sure I'll find it hard enough.

[Falling Down]

T - Run

A week of work, travel and family/social stuff away at the weekend.

Aims this week: Climb at the weekend. Set new goals for July and August.