[tomtom]

Went to Harmers wood this morning with Tris,

(discussed more here but probably deserves its own thread: http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,8101.msg267003.html#msg267003 )
 
What a fantastic spot. Great access, fantastic quality rock - sandstone with almost grit like levels of friction. Little/no wear - pristine describes it best. The problems we did (c.5 > 6b) were all really top quality - no trade or 'whatever' problems. Some fantastic just off vertical slabs, loads of great moves, rock overs, aretes, lovely mono's little flakes and pockets. Most of the top outs were fine - though a little dirty/earthy, nothing some light traffic would sort out. Conditions were not ideal (warm) but its shaded and the rock itself was cool. Its a lovely spot - really secluded and pretty  - no litter, broken glass, chavs etc.. etc.. very family / small child friendly...

Thoroughly recommended for a trip out - I'll be heading there again for sure. I think Tris has some pictures to process from there - so he may pop a couple up... Thanks to BenF and Andy Popp for posting up the pics/directions and pictures...

Tom

[Jim]

looks mega, will probably go and have a look tomorrow evening.
heres some copy & paste from the other thread for ease:

directions:
Harmers Wood is located just behind Helsby Hill.  Approaching Helsby on the A 56 from Frodham turn left on to Old Chester Road at the end of the long straight and after you have passed Helsby High School.  After a bend turn left onto Bates Lane and after 500 metres turn steeply right onto Hill Road North and park up at a small car park (with a big sign) just after a sharp bend.  Enter the woods on the obvious path and turn left on a subsidiary path after 50 metres.  The main quarry is obvious.

photos:

[tomtom]

The car park is here: Walk into the woods, fork left after 30-50m,  can't miss it.

[GCW]

If only we had a superhero that could morph that info into some kind of method of navigating there, possibly by using technology.

[Jim]

it will be added to the poi's so don't lie awake at night worrying about it 

[Tris]

To echo what Tom said - absolutely fantastic spot, really loved it.

Nice solid sandstone, good friction (even though it was a hot day). Lots of nice problems, felt quite highball in places but the landings are great, soft mud/bark etc, no rocks or glass. Superb climbing - we enjoyed every single problem we did.
It's so nice to have found a decent venue that I don't have to drive for hours to get to! Thanks Ben/Andy.. 

I foresee many many future visits - really psyched to check out the other quarries in the woods and check out the lines that need cleaning..

PS - if you have a Sat Nav, the postcode for the car park is WA6 9AQ.

Here are a few examples of the problems we did:






Link to the full size versions plus a few more (different photos, same problems)

[GCW]

it will be added to the poi's so don't lie awake at night worrying about it 

Phew, thank goodness for that.
I fear I will not be able to get there tomorrow, although I'd be keen for a visit at some point.  Is there a topo, or is it more the adventure for this venue?

[tomtom]

it will be added to the poi's so don't lie awake at night worrying about it 

Phew, thank goodness for that.
I fear I will not be able to get there tomorrow, although I'd be keen for a visit at some point.  Is there a topo, or is it more the adventure for this venue?

No Topo AFAIK - But the lines/problems were all pretty easy to spot...  There were a couple of fantastic technical wall/steep slab problems that I got part way up... Theres also a complete traverse that we didnt try but looked good... (v. thin in places).

This problem was ace - pulling up the walls on mono's... I want to come back and have another go on this beauty...

[Richie Crouch]

That last one is harmadillo I think? Connect 3 mono's to 2 disappointing crimps then a direct slap up to a better hold at the top (off some smears). Did you do the amazing rib climb just to the left of said problem?

[tomtom]

That last one is harmadillo I think? Connect 3 mono's to 2 disappointing crimps then a direct slap up to a better hold at the top (off some smears). Did you do the amazing rib climb just to the left of said problem?

That sounds like it. I got to find out how crap the crimps were just the once! - and didnt get as far as sizing up the next move. The move after the one in the pic was great bringing the LF up to mono below my LH then reaching uppppp.... After a few go's my fingers were starting to complain from the mono treatment and I moved on! I'm guessing the move up from the crimps is the crux... (any idea on grade?). The rib looked ace - I didnt try it as I hogged that mono problem for a while and wanted to try something easier around the corner... yes - rib looked like a mix of the odd mono, small crimps and laying off the rib...

[Richie Crouch]

Me and Ben thought about 7a+ for the mono line (the hard bit is defo the last 2 moves). The rib to the left is amazing and around 6b+ maybe. The lefthand line up the wall to your right in the same photo is also great - I think it is called Queen of Hearts and 6c but could be wrong! Hard move to get a left foot up and steady to the top.

[BenF]

Me and Ben thought about 7a+ for the mono line (the hard bit is defo the last 2 moves). The rib to the left is amazing and around 6b+ maybe. The lefthand line up the wall to your right in the same photo is also great - I think it is called Queen of Hearts and 6c but could be wrong! Hard move to get a left foot up and steady to the top.

All correct, well done and full marks Rich.

I've got some more photos that I'll get round to posting at some point.  If people want a tour do feel free to pm me.  Although I can't get out there at the drop of the hat, it isn't far from my work and I often get down there on Tuesday or Thursday evenings.  There isn't a topo available at the moment, but it will be detailed in the bmc guide when it's published (sometime in the next few centuries...).

PS:  Nice one Tris and Tom for getting there, its great to see people visiting.

[SA Chris]

Are ther problems called MC Harmer and Stop, Harmer Time yet?

[GCW]

Or Harmer Chameleon, Self Harmer etc

What's the place like for drying after rain?

[Probes]

Or Harmer Chameleon, Self Harmer etc

What's the place like for drying after rain?

One Harmer ?

[jon bassindale]

liquid harmber, harmeroids, knights in shining harmer, harmer fool for love....... harmer getting my coat now.

[Tris]

What's the place like for drying after rain?

While we were there we got chatting to a guy who says he visits regularly - he said it's shit after rain, reckoned you needed at least 2 days of drying as the seepage was really bad?? He also said it was pretty much unusable in the winter 

Maybe Ben/Richie/Andy can confirm this?

It is obviously a damn good choice in the heat of the summer, what with the abundance of shade etc...

[BenF]

Pretty much spot on re: dampness.  Its shrugging of moderate amounts of rain at the moment, mainly because its been dry for so long, but in the winter it stays damp for long periods of time.  Having said that, during the cold spell of January/February this year it was in reasonable condition and I got a fair bit done there after work with a headtorch.  Obviously the warmer it is, the worse the friction is and like at Pex, the best conditions for pulling/smearing are in the colder months.  But it's still just about ok at the moment, just expect to find it a bit like hard work on the smaller holds.

Good work everybody on the puns.  I just wish there were enough lines left that needed naming. 

[Jim]

what left to go at or is that top secret?

[BenF]

There's plenty of blank wall left (and I mean blank).  Generally quite high and you'll need a bit of luck or a microscope to find some holds, then a bit of time to clean what holds you can find.

There is one clean project that Andy has put a lot of time into cleaning so I think we should give him some more time to get it done.  However I think he'll need it to cool down a bit before he tries it again.

[andy popp]

what left to go at or is that top secret?

At the back there is an obvious square black wall recessed between two corners. I cleaned a line up the right hand side of this, people are very welcome to try this - it will be good and hard. To the right is an arete and then another blank and so far unclimbed wall, I've cleaned a line starting just right of the arete and then trending up right a little into the centre of the wall to a dugout top out. Its pretty obvious. I would appreciate (but obviously realize I can't demand/request) a little time to try this; it took a fair bit of cleaning, then went very hot and now I've buggered one of my knees - hence I've been a little frustrated in getting on it (this is the one Ben mentions, its going to be very good, hence why I'd like to try it). Right side of this wall might have holds, I haven't abbed it yet and there might be other ways up the recessed wall at the back. There are several cleaned lines waiting in the little quarry; the wall L of the obvious big arete (I cleaned this but then did knee in). Right of the arete is a dirty corner and immediately out of this corner is the brilliant start of one of my problems, 'The Fourth Night of My Drinking' V5/6, up small pockets and slots to get obvious deep pocket with right hand, the problem then trends right into the adjacent problem, Clarity V4. The obvious direct from the deep pocket is up for grabs. There is a horrible project off an obvious small pocket at the right hand of the small quarry.

[andy popp]

Oh yeah, really glad everyone is enjoying it.

Re: the puns there is a Self-Harmer but none of the other.

[tomtom]

Hi Ben, might try and get there for Thursday eve (6ish) if you're about - Tris interested? (PM me if so). T

[Jim]

what left to go at or is that top secret?

At the back there is an obvious square black wall recessed between two corners. I cleaned a line up the right hand side of this, people are very welcome to try this - it will be good and hard. To the right is an arete and then another blank and so far unclimbed wall, I've cleaned a line starting just right of the arete and then trending up right a little into the centre of the wall to a dugout top out. Its pretty obvious. I would appreciate (but obviously realize I can't demand/request) a little time to try this; it took a fair bit of cleaning, then went very hot and now I've buggered one of my knees - hence I've been a little frustrated in getting on it (this is the one Ben mentions, its going to be very good, hence why I'd like to try it). Right side of this wall might have holds, I haven't abbed it yet and there might be other ways up the recessed wall at the back. There are several cleaned lines waiting in the little quarry; the wall L of the obvious big arete (I cleaned this but then did knee in). Right of the arete is a dirty corner and immediately out of this corner is the brilliant start of one of my problems, 'The Fourth Night of My Drinking' V5/6, up small pockets and slots to get obvious deep pocket with right hand, the problem then trends right into the adjacent problem, Clarity V4. The obvious direct from the deep pocket is up for grabs. There is a horrible project off an obvious small pocket at the right hand of the small quarry.

nice one andy, I can't promise I will remember all this and seeing as there isn't a topo we will just try and climb everything we can, however I am pretty confident we won't be able to do your project if we do try it

[mrjonathanr]

I was getting irritated by the puns but now I realise it's all Harmless Fun.