[tomtom]

STG 7B+

Mon: rest
Tues: Good trip to the cliff.. re-did old circuits by low man - felt strong. Flashed silverfish(?) with block and had a promising play on the sans block version (7B).. Good play on Underhand - made some progress thanks to Anna and her cunning beta for the left foot. 3.5 hour session - Trashed!
Wed: Ached
Thurs: Cliff again. mega psyched for Underhand - but still knackered (I think) from tues - no core.
Fri: Worked, Drank, Cried (not really but it was dire wasnt it..)
Sat: Watched football all day
Sun: Ikea duties... (resting for a monday trip to the cliff)

A good week - great to re-visit cliff problems I'd not done for a year - and piss them showing the improvement from a year ago...

[Nibile]

mon - weights/bouldering. poorest session so far. useless.
tue - beastmaker.
wed - weights. full session.
thu - rest.
fri - bouldering. good vibes.
sat - drove to the sea to get the van back. success.
sun - beastmaker.

comments:
monday was so depressing. was at the crag, just put my harness on and had to get back home because g/f needed the car to go and visit a dying patient at home (hard task that one). so went to the gym but wanted to climb, the wall was boiling, the weights were heavier, total depression. much better on friday. still refining the session, i will prolly cut off the bench press. still training back and triceps in super sets.
bouldering went well on friday. despite 30° in the gym and baby soft skin. i am still scared to pull hard on the elbow though. i feel a bit heavy, but maybe i am only climbing too controlled, i want to keep the elbow safe. something went down.
then, the fingers. i am doing sets of 10" hangs for 6 times, 1 min rest. i noticed improvements today. working hard on back two and back three on small rung and monos. psyched.
finally: the elbow is getting slightly better despite the training and that's encouraging. today i also managed a few pull ups, even though not completely locking off. i think i started addressing some weaknesses, i feel my left arm stronger, my bicep has changed shape.
so, fingers crossed. i hope the elbow heals and to touch some rock soon.
boom!

[Barratt]

STG: Full recovery from ac joint/tendon injury.
LTG: Consolidate 7a, bag some 7b's

Mon: A) Rehab exercises with light weights. B) Bench press, upward row, dead lift - as a horizontal stack (10x10x10 x 3). C) Weighted pull ups, bicep curls, shoulder press - as a horizontal stack (10x10x10 x 3). D) Other stuff to finish: 20 sit ups x 5. 20 push ups x 3. 1 min plank to end. 
Tues: Bouldering@Works, power endurance on 20° board followed by new purple circuit.
Wed: The burner x1. 6.40mins
Thurs: Session down the Work doing up problems on the 20° board, tried pretty dam hard
Fri: Match booze etc
Sat: rest
Sun: motogp

Great week really. Tried hard and no sign of shoulder getting worst as a result. Looking forward to the week ahead.

[Richie Crouch]

Goals for 2010: In Hell (cave), Never Ending Story pt 1 (Magic Wood), T Crack (cratcliff)

Mon: Rest - rehab exercises
Tues: Harmers Wood with Ben F, great session climbing lots of highball fiercely crimpy/monotastic technical wall problems
Weds: Fingers and toes aching!
Thurs: Can close fingers at last, continue with rehab exercises
Fri: Double session day (careful volume bouldering x2) either side of work
Sat: Rest, BBQ and lots of booze
Sun: Short 1hr volume session, really sweaty, sacked it off and watched 2nd half of Brazil v IC, can't believe kaka's card and that I chose to leave Fabiano out, gutted 

[nik at work]

8b, 8B

Rubbish rubbish rubbish, done nothing apart from Silverdale today where I did nothing apart from semi-pull off a fingernail on my left hand, rubbish. And the tea room had sold out of scones!!! Rubbish squared.

Must do more next week.

[Three Nine]

Usual goals, but think the immediate one is to get back to onsighting 7bs and up.

M rest, cardio - 30 mins run
T got up at 6, 2 hour easy bouldering circuit at Heaven's Gate before work, eve: 45 power 1.5 hours mediocre
W morning before work: deadhangs 1 hour, eve: 2 hours easy bouldering at Croscombe
T eve: 2 hours easy bouldering at Croscombe, deadhangs 40mins
F rest, cardio - 30 mins run
S LQP, did an amazing 7c slab
S another crag in devon, did some milage including an ace 7b

good week trying to get some 'feel' back, blinding weekend in the Shire

[chris05]

M: bouldering at cummingston & 4m trail run
T: bouldering at tom riach and brin rock & trad at tynrich slabs
W: travel back from scotland
T: 4m run & core
F: rest
S: long day bouldering at churnet
S: 7m run & core

A good week. Really feel like my bouldering is coming on, should have got two 6c+'s in the first sessions on them (big deal I know). Hopefully a break-through is immanent. Did a little trad the other day, suprisingly after a year off I hadn't magically become a trad genius and had in fact got worse!

[Luthor]

STG - F6b+
MTG - Consolidate V7/V8

M - Rest
T - Bouldering at Works
w - Worked Brachiation Dance at The Cornice. Psyched to do this now!
T - Cicuits at the Works on 20° board
F - Bouldering at the Works
S - Bouldering at the Matrix, had really good session.
S - Rest

Feeling pretty psyched for sports climbing after trip to The Cornice on Wednesday.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals: Err... After Thursday's session must now do "the sea is a brown paper bag", F7c, More Font 7B's, F8a before 2014.

M: Morning Yoga.
T: Bouldering @ Stoney up to about 7A.
W: Morning Yoga and cycle to work.
T: Routes @ 2 Tier Upper - Well I say routes but really just 3 goes on one route, The sea is a brown paper bag. First go: Felt like the absolute living end! Second go: Crushed the bottom section, felt like a different route. Still struggled with the roof though! Third go: Trashed! Worked out the roof but to tired to actually do the moves Felt propper hard for 7b+ and think it'll be a good few sessions before I get anywhere near ticking it!
F: Drink wine and watch football (well whatever that shower of overpaid primdonnas decided to call football - rubbish!)
S: Swim with boy @ Virgin and do routes there. Flashed 7 routes up to 7a.
S: Bouldering @ Pleasley - Polished off most of the problems in the old peak guide, just got the 1 over the block (only one pad) and the B10 (7Bish?) to do now and couldn't even pull on that! Fathers Day post climbing steak and beer...Ace!

Good week - Arms hurt! Finger doesn't!

:D

[roddersm]

STG Goals:

Trad: Pitchfork Wit E1, Birdie, sightseer both E2, Elvis (again) E3 , The Barb E1, The Borg Assimilated my mars bar E3 .
Rail Road E1, Marconi E3 5c, Equinox E2 5C, GBH, Jolly Roger E3 , Zodiac E2 5c, Thank you and goodbye E3 6a , Roadkill E2 5c 
Boulder: Chubbs Peterson 7a(+?) , Carbide 7a, Left Overs 7a+ , Split arete 6b+
sport onsight multiple 7as. debelof 6c+ and biscott margerine 6b+ and lots of other good routes in the verdon. 7a at Buoux and/or Ceuse.

LTG's:
Trad: E5 o\s
Sport: Onsight 7b. rp 7c. Climb lots of stuff in Verdon, Ceuse, Buoux and Siurana.
Boulder: At least 7C .

Mon  Climbing wall bouldering 1hr 20 min/ 5*10 pullups on fingerboard. Felt good.
Tue   Climbing on old school outdoor climbing wall 2 hrs.
Wed  Run 50 min.
Thur  Moon Fingerboard and bar session weighted ( + 10 - 30 lbs) deadhangs/ lock off and pullups . 1 hour
Fri     Rest
Sat   Clean an E2 I'm planning on doing soon. Lead an E4 I've done before. Top rope a bold
E4/E5 I might do in the future.
Sun  Go to Echo rock and try Split arete a classic highball 6b+/E4 granite arete. Too hot, skin totally trashed. Bollocks.

Not too bad. training went well during the week. Good wall session on monday. Finally got to
an old school outdoor training wall that forged the skills of many Irish climbing legends. Ran wel and had a decent fingerboard session. However got an infected blister on my foot so had to adjust climbing plans for the weekend. Led Ruthless People, a brilliant, desperate E4 6b again. Split arete needs good conditions so will sack it maybe until cooler weather. Plans for coming weeks Zodiac, The Barb, Birdie, Roadkill and sightseer(weather permitting). Have some ideas about potential new routes and problems over the next year or so. Totally psyched at the minute! 

[shark]

Thanks for starting thread tomtom

Goal: Oak. 10,000 8a nu points
Weight: 11.4-5

M.AM Physio for sore lower back
T.
W.
T. Eve Cornice. Bit warm and unpsyched for hard climbing. Did Third Order (7b) - bit tricky at grade IMO. Back OK 
F.
S. Cornice. Great conditions. 4 goes on K3. Have gone backwards 
S. Got sunburnt watching eldest at a tennis tournament

Deffered gratification is sapping my psyche. Not done a hard redpoint this year despite being stronger than ever. Have enjoyed being on K3 (and Toilet before that and Oak before that) but it would be motivating to get a tick in  but know that dropping my sights and getting a comfort tick elsewhere is not the way to go for me so need to dig in. Back is better and my fingers are starting to feel less tweaky. Much to be thankful for. Also weighed 11.3 this morning so weight heading back down. Back to the Cornice this eve.
 

[JamesD]

Arghhhhhhh what is it with fucking elbow tweaks!
Felt a bit funny after climbing last week, then felt fine, then felt a bit tweaky early on this week so I decided to just leave bouldering this week and focus on sorting my arms/elbow out, really pissing me off, it feels fine, then it feels a little bit unsure, it hasn't actually started hurting again, so maybe I should stop whining like a bitch, and be happy, seeing as the last time I went for a wall session I managed to work a V2 overhang which was a first for me.....I don't know, confused and annoyed right now, regardless....back down the wall next week, not bouldering is boring and working nearly 7 days a week is driving me a bit crazy

Monday- swimming and rotator cuff exercises, tricep kickbacks, bicep curls, reverse curls.
Tuesday - swimming
Wednesday - swimming
thursday - rest
Friday - swimming
Saturday - swimming
Sunday - swimming and rotator cuff exercises, tricep kickbacks, bicep curls.

All exercises (apart from the swimming obviously) were done solely with resistance bands, of various resistance, sometimes with 2-3 combined together to up the resistance for things.

Short term goals- sort the fucking elbow out! go to the wall next week! (maybe bouldering in the peak if the weather is decent)
Medium term goals- consistently nail V2 problems at the wall, get outdoors more
Long term goals- 6b/6c before the year is out, outdoors.

[webbo]

Mon.Good session to sat 3rd day on.
Tue.bike 75mins brisk.
Wed. starting with cold.Wall new problems and as steve the route setter left the grading up to me.i'm now as good or bad as feel like.
Thu.nowt feel shit.
Fri. cold getting worse went to wall.climbed ok just felt terrible.
Sat. mainly in bed did walk round beverly to see if this wou;ld make me feel better.it did'nt.
Sun.mainly in bed again.
week started off well but went down hill fast.on a positive note getting into wrking stuff rather than sacking it off after a couple of goes.

[chris_j_s]

Weight: 61kg

Aims for 2010: rp 7b+ sport, o/s 6c+ sport, 7A+ boulder.

M: Rest day.
T: Bouldering at Craig y Longridge. Progress on the traversing (past a move which has been stopping me dead for a while now). Also did a 6C. Perfect conditions which surprised me after a bit of rain during the previous week.
W: One armers on Rock rings, followed by 1 set of the burner in 6mins 15 secs.
T: Routes at Foredale. Did one of the massive 30 metre routes which was good fun and was very pleased to onsight a very short and bouldery f6c.
F: Rest day. Watched football... absolutely dire!
S: Something my wife has wanted to do for ages... we went to Cold Stone Crag in the lonely Lancashire moors for the day. Ticked most of the routes there, soloing easier stuff and roping up for the VS-E1 stuff. Decided not to do the E2 as it was missing its crucial peg, was v. dirty and we were running out of time. Plus Mrs S's skin was trashed and my feet were killing me after wearing my tight sport shoes all day... a very bad idea!  A great day out though and nice to spend a (sunny!) day at a seldom visited crag.
S: Cut a sodding great flapper off my right ring finger whilst removing tiles from our shower room. The tile splintered leaving shards inside the flapper and lots of blood - super painful. This does not bode well for climbing this week. 
We then went up to Haweswater late in the afternoon and did a 12k walk catching an amazing sunset ffrom the summit of High Street. Nice end to the week.

This week: hope for speedy flapper healing and for a better footballing performance on Wednesday (is it possible that it could be worse?)...

[cmerch]

Goals: 8a and V8
Mon: 5 mile run and mow the lawn
Tues: Campus board and 2 mile run
Wed: Work and drive to lake
Thurs: Climb at Foster's, rain, do two routes, 7a and 6b
Fri: 5 mile run and climb at Foster's, 6c and 5ish route
Sat: 4 mile run
Sun: Campus board and Rock Rings
Both days climbing were very hot and humid, need to get away from Foster's, need to see something new. Running keeps weight down, feel light.

[Luthor]

STG - F6b+ F7b+
MTG - Consolidate V7/V8

M - Rest
T - Bouldering at Works
w - Worked Brachiation Dance at The Cornice. Psyched to do this now!
T - Cicuits at the Works on 20° board
F - Bouldering at the Works
S - Bouldering at the Matrix, had really good session.
S - Rest

Feeling pretty psyched for sports climbing after trip to The Cornice on Wednesday.

Set my STG's a little low there..

[chris j]

S another crag in devon, did some milage including an ace 7b

Where did you go on the Sunday, I'm always on the lookout for a good project around that grade?

[Charles]

Another week of nothing but excessive drinking. I despair in myself. Gonna do some weights today, climb tomorrow and Wednesday and Friday. If I don't, then may bad things happen to me.

[chillax]

STG: E3
MTG: E4
LTG: E7

Mon: Long exploratory walk around my new home area. found some interesting stuff.
Tues: Gym. Wrecked it.
Wed: Went back to one of the areas I spotted on mon and spent an enjoyable afternoon working on a nice long training traverse. Will probably be about 7a and within 30min walk from my house. Perfect.
Thurs: Rest
Fri: Rest
Sat:Gola. Did some easy routes to warm up and then hopped on a monsterously sandbagged E1. Good climbing, but too much for me at the time. Had a miniature epic getting everyone out as it was an ab in route, but nothing too serious.
Sun: Gola. Some Vs's and HVS's to warm up, then repeatedly fell off a tricky E2. Would go quite quickly second time round, but i didn't have the energy and we had to be off the island at 4. Good weekend.

I've started to cycle to uni every day which is about 4 hilly miles each way, but as I do it every day it'd be a bit tedious to include here. Good week, especially the weekend on Gola. Didn't do anything of note, but took my first falls onto gear of the year. Wicklow mountain trad next weekend.

[nai]

stg - get mileage on a rope, more E2s
mtg - trad and sport up to E4 & 7c
ltg - boulders up to 7C+

M - nowt
T - last day working in buxton so spent a prolonged lunchtime trying Stall after a quick warm up on Newstone classics.  No Cigar unfortunately.
W - routes at Millstone, nothing hard (on paper) but good mileage.
T - went to Royal Ascot, wouldn't normally make it in to power club but my Mrs' reluctance to use tubes/taxis in London meant walking about 5 miles during the day.
F - more plodding around London, about 3 miles today.
S- more routes at Millstone, again good mileage.
S - nowt

Good week all round - give up work, do some good climbing, go racing, watch lots of football, spend a night away from the kids, eat nice food, drink lots of wine - would have been perfect had England won

[Barratt]

Sunday: 4x4s on home boards

4x4's - what are these fella?

[Andy F]

Not much to report. Tues/Fri/Sun - beastmaker, but good 50 minute sessions. Will try to hit rock next week.

[Falling Down]

thanks Tom

M - Long day at work
T - Smalldale PM. Dogged up Can Boys (7a) and had three redpoint goes. Hot.
W - Work/Travel/Stress
T - 19 hour Workday/Travel/Stress
F - Work
S - Routes at Cheedale Max Wall & Embankment 6c, 6c+ RP, 7a RP, 7a near RP
S - Gentle run

A good weeks climbing rather than training in spite of a heavy work and social schedule. The trip to Swiz was cancelled due to a terrible weather forecast and looking at footage from Sonisphere I'm so glad I didn't go. . It's all coming together nicely and I just need more mileage to get my endurance up. Really loving the climbing game again....

[iain]

STG: State of Play and Total Seizure
MTG: Onsight 7b
LTG: Infinite Gravity and Freaky Ralph

Mon: Fingerboard and assisted one-armers
Tues: Yoga
Wed:  ???
Thurs: Fingerboard and assisted one-armers, then fall practice and routes
Fri: yoga
Sat/Sun: Weekend back up in Edinburgh, good times

Pulling finger out this coming week and starting some proper training again. Have 4 weeks till trying the Cuillin ridge, 5 weeks until I can get on an old 8a project in Scotland that I got close to last year with no specific training and 6 weeks till Infinite Gravity season. Lots of circuits and running to be done.


@JamesD, in case you don't already know the elbow article here might help http://www.athlon.com.au/media_articles.htm, linked elsewhere on ukb. I have a friend who does a lot of swimming and climbing and finds it useful. Also the ukb's very own http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,13162.0.html might help too.

[shark]

4x4's - what are these fella?

Its a power endurance interval based training exercise where you climb 4 problems back-to-back 4 times with 2.5 to 4 mins rest between sets. Its an American import popularised in the UK by The Self Coached Climber.