[petejh]

Goal - VIII, 8a, 8A, E8, in 2010.
At - IX, 7b+, 7B, E4.
Goal for June - Foulish Ghoulish (pen trwyn), Body Torque (pt), Foil/Stroll On/Quasar (pass), climb one of the two new routes I've been cleaning.

m. Sent Body Torque, yeah. Quite surprised to get it so quickly, 2nd RP. Can now finally get on Bad Bad Boy.
t. nowt.
w. cleaned top of new route, ready to go now.
t.  2 hours TR'ing on new route, nails but brill, worked out the 2nd half of the crux. Then up to the Cromlech for some belaying and tradding with tired arms.
f. Very short cave sesh (30 mins?) with tired arms from thursday.
s. Exploring some of the rebolted slate routes around rainbow walls area. Good fun, arms still sore.
s. Shunting on new route. Worked out a way to do the first half of the crux by some very powerful moves from pinches.

Good to send BT, BBB next. Got to get this new route done, need to work some pure power and dynoing off pinches.

[iain]

@JamesD, in case you don't already know the elbow article here might help http://www.athlon.com.au/media_articles.htm, linked elsewhere on ukb. I have a friend who does a lot of swimming and climbing and finds it useful. Also the ukb's very own http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,13162.0.html might help too.

I'm a tube, was just reading through the ukb thread again and realised you already know all about it.

Fail 

[JamesD]

@JamesD, in case you don't already know the elbow article here might help http://www.athlon.com.au/media_articles.htm, linked elsewhere on ukb. I have a friend who does a lot of swimming and climbing and finds it useful. Also the ukb's very own http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,13162.0.html might help too.

I'm a tube, was just reading through the ukb thread again and realised you already know all about it.

Fail 

No worries, I appreciate the thought regardless.
It really is the most annoying thing in the world when every other part of your body feels awesome and strong, and is screaming to be let loose, yet one little weak link stops you from pushing past 60/70% effort.
So Fucking frustrating 

To top it all off I am going to croatia in just over a week and I was hoping to get a shed load of bouldering done, at this rate it looks like I might as well just leave the shoes/mat at home and get doing loads of other exercise, but taking it easy on the elbow so it can heal up and come back fresh for some climbing here.
I think I am going to make daily work-outs a part of my morning regime out there, on my last holiday I came back nearly half a stone lighter, so that should at least go some way to helping my elbow out by reducing the weight loaded onto it lol 

[Three Nine]

I've had lots of elbow probs, and you can always climb through them (in my experience). Climbers get sore elbows periodically. If you have the opportunity to go outside bouldering in Croatia then you should leap at the opportunity. My advice would be to do easier milage, sacking off the plastic etc. focus on moving well etc. Resting doesn't really help in my experience.

[slackline]

It really is the most annoying thing in the world when every other part of your body feels awesome and strong, and is screaming to be let loose, yet one little weak link stops you from pushing past 60/70% effort.
So Fucking frustrating 

Try going trad climbing instead, far less strenuous on your elbows.

[shark]

S - Routes at Cheedale Max Wall & Embankment 6c, 6c+ RP, 7a RP, 7a near RP

I must have walked past you on Saturday

[Falling Down]

Were you with Dominic Lee?

[shark]

Were you with Dominic Lee?

No. No relation either. I dont know him though briefly chatted at the tor a couple of months ago before his partner Neil Foster turned up.  He has a UKC logbook and seems to be impressively ticking through the routes. I assume he's either been abroad or not climbed much for a while.