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Long time no speak
13 June 2010, 8:51 pm

Well, my climbing has been ticking along, but nothing major to report. Have done a load of fitness training down Longridge, and have ticked a handful of 8's dotted around, but now its time to get serious. Should have done Ecstasy today, at Kilnsey. Greased off right at the top in bad conditions. Pretty sure this 8b as per the guide and not the 8a+ a few people have mooted. Its taken me twice as long as my previous 8b's, and i think i am reasonably fit and strong at the moment.

Anyway. Now i have a plan of attack. It reads as follows.

Ecstasy - 8b

The Bulge - 8a

Urgent Action - 8a+

The Thumb - 8a

Dr Crimp - 8b+

Northern Exposure - 8b+

Add to that Supercool, when i get chance to get back on it. Also need to finish off Austrian Oak at Malham too.

I have 4 months.

Will update blog with a few pics over the next few days

Source: Adam Lincoln Blog

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Blogging brings good luck!
14 June 2010, 4:03 pm

Well after my first blog post in ages yesterday, stating my intentions, i managed to redpoint one off the list today. Ecstasy went down first redpoint of the day. Just. I hadn't warmed up properly, and by the time i had got to the top shake i was really cold. And pumped. I had my hands on the top and almost dropped off climbing. Somehow finding the fight to hang on and clip... I had torn a big flapper so the blood everywhere didn't help.

First big tick of the year. Feel like a bit of weight has been lifted as it was turning into an epic.

I have stumped for the bottom 8b grade as per guide. Going off people who have done it and logged it on 8a.nu, only two have put down 8a+. Ondra and Jordan. Though Jordan is changing it to 8b he says. And as for Ondra? He climbs a full number grade harder, so he doesn't count.

Grades eh...

So my list looks something like this now.

Ecstasy 8b

The Bulge 8aUrgent Action 8a+Full Tilt 8bThe Thumb 8aDr Crimp 8b+Northern Exposure - 8b+



Source: Adam Lincoln Blog

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The Bulge/Powerplant
21 June 2010, 10:08 pm

Had a good few days ticking some easier stuff. Did the Bulge at Kilnsey after my recent tick of Ecstasy. Took a few goes due to bowling bowl hold at top not fitting my fingers! Enjoyed the route though, really good. I thought that would be it for routes with knee bars for a while, but what did i go and get on today? Powerplant at the Cornice! I met Jordan at Stockport about mid day, so a tad lazy start. We wandered down and it was hot. I had quite a few goes with some stiff boots, but kept falling out of the knee bar. I had the bright idea to try a soft shoe, and low and behold, i did it next go. 3rd redpoint. Cool route but still pretty dirty compared to Kilnsey. Put the clips in K3 to work moves for next time. Beta from Simon Lee and Rob Napier showed the way after a fruitless first go without beta! Burly, and i was tired. Next time...

Tick list for Kilnsey looking better now.

Ecstasy - 8bThe Bulge - 8aSo next up

Urgent Action - 8a+Full Tilt - 8bThe Thumb - 8aDr Crimp - 8b+Northern Exposure - 8b+

Source: Adam Lincoln Blog

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While i am in the mood for a list!
22 June 2010, 5:45 pm

Remaining limestone tick list for the year . Nothing like a list to get you psyched! Sure a few others will creep in too. Also want to complete all the 7's at Kilnsey. Just got about 8 or 9 remaining.

Kilnsey

Urgent Action - 8a+

Cold Steal - 8a

The Thumb - 8a

The Ashes - 7c+

Dominatrix - 7c

Dr Crimp - 8b+

Full Tilt - 8b

Northern Exposure - 8b+

Malham

Austrian Oak - 8b

Renaissance - 7c+

Breach Of The Peace - 8a

Cheedale

K3 - 8a+

Rubicon

Dangerous Brothers - 8a

LPT

Pas De Deux - 8a+

Raven Tor

Waddage - 8b

Weedkiller/Chimes - 8b

Source: Adam Lincoln Blog

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History of 8's
27 June 2010, 9:15 pm

Had a look over at my 8a logbook earlier, and was surprised by the amount of 8's i have done. Only really been climbing sport for 3 years, bar the odd sport climbing holiday. I have managed to do 45 8's in this time. This comprises of

4 8b's

13 8a+'s

28 8a's

Going to try and make my 50th a special one. Would be lovely if it was an 8b+. Though at the moment, i don't feel i have 8b+ in me. I need another month or so on the routes i have on my list, before i will jump on an 8b+ again. I am still ahead of schedule. My first 8b was climbed on the 9th of September last year. So i have 2 and a bit months to get on my game.

Source: Adam Lincoln Blog

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Ouch
1 July 2010, 9:35 am

Season has taken a bit of a knock back. Went to Kilnsey yesterday,  and got on Urgent Action. Had only done one warm up, Nerve ending, so perhaps was a little foolish. I set off and was feeling great, all the lower section felt easy. Got to the jug rest in middle of the lower wall, and felt a twinge in my middle finger. It didn't feel too bad, so after a quick shake i carried on. All the way through the jump move, and into the undercuts. I did the first move, but the bump to the second sika hold didn't go that well, i grabbed it wrong, and when i came to move off it to the jug, i fell. Grabbing the jug should be the route in the bag.

Anyway, on lowering down my finger felt a bit funny. Typical ligament damage feeling. I have been troubled with these over the years. I taped up for another go, but the tape made it feel worse. In the end i went home, not wanting to damage it any more. I have had these tweaks before and after a few days are ok to climb on. Not sure about this time, we shall see! Fingers crossed. Only i can't it hurts too much...

Might be time for a few weeks of trad.

Source: Adam Lincoln Blog

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Action!
15 July 2010, 8:58 pm

Well, the finger is on the mend, after doing a load of 7's for the last few weeks. With a bit of trad thrown in! I thought today would be the day to finish of Urgent Action. Would test the finger a little too. Had an awful warm up. I felt tired, from too many days climbing, conditions were bad, and i was climbing in a new pair of boots. First go i felt tired all the way up, feet slipping and eventually taking the long ride from the sika slap move. After a rest, i got back on again. Still feeling tired, i eventually get to the undercuts. I slap the first hold, then slap the second. Finger felt ok, i had the hold reasonably, though i feel tired reaching out too jug. Luckily i stick it, compose myself, then rattle on up the finishing groove. Didn't really enjoy the actual climb as i felt terrible on it. Previous redpoints have felt easier, but no success. That's the climbing game i guess.

So, what's next? Motivation and psyche is low, so going to leave The Thumb and Full Tilt for now. I have my eye on a bigger prize. Dr Crimp. I feel if i don't climb 8b+ this year, i will have failed. I am scared of failing. So as of the weekend, Dr Crimp with take priority till it is ticked. I feel a bit weaker than last year on it so i will start a dead hanging regime tonight, and also try and drop a bit of weight.

Speaking of which, i must crack on.

Out for now...

Source: Adam Lincoln Blog

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Kilnsey Conditions Update - Monday 20th July
20 July 2010, 12:08 pm

Most stuff dry. Top pitch of Claws looked a bit wet. Lots of rain as we left so wet patches may start to appear on Tuesday. Will update again on Wednesday evening.

Source: Adam Lincoln Blog

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Blog Changes
20 July 2010, 12:14 pm

Going to try and make this blog a bit more useful in future!

Going to add crag conditions in Yorkshire, when possible. Also any ascents of note. People love reading about what others are up to. Or at least i do!



Source: Adam Lincoln Blog

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So so close...
11 August 2010, 2:25 pm

So Kilnsey is pretty dry again. Just bottom of Full Tilt now a tad damp. Everyone is Ticking!

Jenny Wooward cruised 'The Thumb' yesterday. Karen Magog and Steve Crowe also ticking it. Basia added 'The Bulge' to her recent spell of good form. Others she has ticked include 'The Ashes' and 'Urgent Action'. She is now on Ecstasy, and looking good on her first go up it. Adam Jeewooth almost did Indian Summer first redpoint yesterday. He warmed up on Sticky wicket, but just kept going. He didn't bother having another redpoint, he gets bored very easily ;-)

As for me, well, i fell off one move from victory on Dr Crimp yesterday. So, my elusive 8b+ tick is close. I have a feeling it won't fall next go though. Far from it. People seem to think i had done it last week, not sure how that came about! Its not as if my clips came out of the route... Think i am going to go back Friday, and wait till lateish for the good temps. Both my projects at the moment require good temps to maximise chances of success.

Source: Adam Lincoln Blog

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8b Plus!
14 August 2010, 8:10 pm

Dr Crmp. Finally. The route has given me lots of ups and's downs. I have learnt a lot from it. I feel like so much pressure has built up to do the route, and it was becoming a bit of a drag to get on it.

The main thing was my sequence. No one else does the crux like me, and wasn't even sure i could link the route with my method. I could pull on at the crux,doing the moves, and climb to the belay. Adding the french whatever it is start into it took too much of an edge off me. Until the other day. I went from the ground to the second crux, and fell off. I breakthrough.  I still wasn't sure i could do it again. The funny thing is with climbing though, if you can do something once, no matter how improbable it feels, you can do it again. It has made me mentally stronger doing the route.

The next issue was it was very conditions dependent. The pocket is prone to seeping. It needs to be cold, but not that cold. You only get 3 or 4 redpoints a session due to the nature of one of the holds. You also lose fitness quickly on it as the crux is fairly low, so redpoints end early. This means you have to keep you PE, and strength topped up on other routes. This leads the mind to be distracted by other projects.

But anyway, it is done. I can move on. I have other fish to fry now. I have Northern Exposure to finish off from last year. This is a similar 8b+ to Dr Crimp, but the crux is at the top. I need to wait for good cold temps on this too. My other goals for Kilnsey this year, are Indian Summer, and Full Tilt. Both of which i have had a couple of days on. I feel light at the moment, so think i will concentrate on Full Tilt. Indian Summer might evade me this year. I also have the idea that i might get 8c this year too.

On top of this, I am going to open my account on Unjustified as soon as it is cold enough for Malham. It might be a bit much for me this year. Sensible people might want to do a few more 8b+'s first, but hey, if you don't push yourself, you can't experience failure.

Source: Adam Lincoln Blog

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Unjustified
18 August 2010, 7:57 pm

First day on Unjustified today. Apart from Evolution, this is the hardest route i have ever been on. After three goes up the route, i had linked the main section of the route. From the big undercuts, to the belay. The bottom bit is Something Stupid, and goes at a tricky 7b. Probably 7b+ by the time you get to the big undercuts. So. Do the numbers add up? 7b+ into an 8a/+. Who knows. The two sections don't feel that hard. Once linkage starts though, i am sure it is going to feel like a whole new kettle of fish. I am very psyched though, no other route has motivated me so much.

Can i make the step up from 8b to 8c in a year? Who knows. I am happy with 8b+ this year, if i can get an 8c as well, all the better!

It is a bit early really for Malham. In the sun during the day, conditions are bad. I really just wanted to get a feel for what i needed to do. I got a bit more out of the day than i was expecting. A lot more. Looking forward to the journey on this route! How ever long it may take.





Source: Adam Lincoln Blog

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The County
17 October 2010, 9:29 pm

Just had an ace weekend in the county. Filmed all the problems i did, so shall upload a film soon!

Ticklist

Transformer LH font 7c

The Yorkshireman font 7b+

Vienna font 7b+

Sprung font 7c

Staggered font 7b

Manta LH font 7b

Source: Adam Lincoln Blog

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Northumberland Vid
18 October 2010, 7:14 pm

As promised

from Adam Lincoln on Vimeo.

Source: Adam Lincoln Blog

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A day out at Curbar
23 October 2010, 5:37 pm

Short video from Thursday. Some fine ascents by Jordan and Pete. Reason for the bad style of ascent on Slackers for me was i top toped it years back, so had a quick look again on a toppy before the send. No point sticking your neck out on something you top roped years back! Also was useful to demo it for the other two.

from Adam Lincoln on Vimeo.

Source: Adam Lincoln Blog

[Johnny Brown]

That White Lines footage brings back some memories. I think that lower wall might be the most technical of Dawes' grit routes.

[Adam Lincoln]

That White Lines footage brings back some memories. I think that lower wall might be the most technical of Dawes' grit routes.

We thought Pete was off going for the break! Heart in mouth moment.

[Johnny Brown]

I bottled it in the end and made a jump for the bank on the right. It's hard enough getting to that little flake, and then mantelling it is just dismaying...

[Adam Lincoln]

I bottled it in the end and made a jump for the bank on the right. It's hard enough getting to that little flake, and then mantelling it is just dismaying...

Just pm'ing you on another matter!

[Adam Lincoln]

and then mantelling it is just dismaying...

You should have seen how easily Jordan did it. Dismaying!

[Falling Down]

Nic vid Adam. Thanks for filming, editing and sharing. 

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Balance It Is
26 October 2010, 11:44 am

Short clip i just made of Jordan flashing Balance It Is.

Enjoy.

from Adam Lincoln on Vimeo.

Source: Adam Lincoln Blog

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Giggling Crack!
8 November 2010, 1:46 pm

Vid of mine and Jordans recent tussle!

from Adam Lincoln on Vimeo.

Source: Adam Lincoln Blog

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Bottom Line
16 November 2010, 1:55 pm

Me and Jordan went to try the Bottom Line today at Brimham. Its a very strenuous E7 6c. We both had very good flash goes, both getting right to the last couple of moves. Jordan dispatched it next go, in true hero style, where i just faded at the same point as the flash. I think the 500 sit ups, 500 push ups and the 250 pull ups the night before had taken their toll. I will have to return, but here is a vid of Jordan crushing it.

from Adam Lincoln on Vimeo.

Source: Adam Lincoln Blog

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Three in the snow
19 December 2010, 5:43 pm

Fun hour in the snow at Longridge today. Repeated some classics on the circuit.

from Adam Lincoln on Vimeo.

Source: Adam Lincoln Blog