[comPiler]

Long time no speak
13 June 2010, 8:51 pm

Well, my climbing has been ticking along, but nothing major to report. Have done a load of fitness training down Longridge, and have ticked a handful of 8's dotted around, but now its time to get serious. Should have done Ecstasy today, at Kilnsey. Greased off right at the top in bad conditions. Pretty sure this 8b as per the guide and not the 8a+ a few people have mooted. Its taken me twice as long as my previous 8b's, and i think i am reasonably fit and strong at the moment.

Anyway. Now i have a plan of attack. It reads as follows.

Ecstasy - 8b

The Bulge - 8a

Urgent Action - 8a+

The Thumb - 8a

Dr Crimp - 8b+

Northern Exposure - 8b+

Add to that Supercool, when i get chance to get back on it. Also need to finish off Austrian Oak at Malham too.

I have 4 months.

Will update blog with a few pics over the next few days

Source: Adam Lincoln Blog

[comPiler]

Blogging brings good luck!
14 June 2010, 4:03 pm

Well after my first blog post in ages yesterday, stating my intentions, i managed to redpoint one off the list today. Ecstasy went down first redpoint of the day. Just. I hadn't warmed up properly, and by the time i had got to the top shake i was really cold. And pumped. I had my hands on the top and almost dropped off climbing. Somehow finding the fight to hang on and clip... I had torn a big flapper so the blood everywhere didn't help.

First big tick of the year. Feel like a bit of weight has been lifted as it was turning into an epic.

I have stumped for the bottom 8b grade as per guide. Going off people who have done it and logged it on 8a.nu, only two have put down 8a+. Ondra and Jordan. Though Jordan is changing it to 8b he says. And as for Ondra? He climbs a full number grade harder, so he doesn't count.

Grades eh...

So my list looks something like this now.

Ecstasy 8b

The Bulge 8aUrgent Action 8a+Full Tilt 8bThe Thumb 8aDr Crimp 8b+Northern Exposure - 8b+



Source: Adam Lincoln Blog

[comPiler]

The Bulge/Powerplant
21 June 2010, 10:08 pm

Had a good few days ticking some easier stuff. Did the Bulge at Kilnsey after my recent tick of Ecstasy. Took a few goes due to bowling bowl hold at top not fitting my fingers! Enjoyed the route though, really good. I thought that would be it for routes with knee bars for a while, but what did i go and get on today? Powerplant at the Cornice! I met Jordan at Stockport about mid day, so a tad lazy start. We wandered down and it was hot. I had quite a few goes with some stiff boots, but kept falling out of the knee bar. I had the bright idea to try a soft shoe, and low and behold, i did it next go. 3rd redpoint. Cool route but still pretty dirty compared to Kilnsey. Put the clips in K3 to work moves for next time. Beta from Simon Lee and Rob Napier showed the way after a fruitless first go without beta! Burly, and i was tired. Next time...

Tick list for Kilnsey looking better now.

Ecstasy - 8bThe Bulge - 8aSo next up

Urgent Action - 8a+Full Tilt - 8bThe Thumb - 8aDr Crimp - 8b+Northern Exposure - 8b+

Source: Adam Lincoln Blog

[comPiler]

While i am in the mood for a list!
22 June 2010, 5:45 pm

Remaining limestone tick list for the year . Nothing like a list to get you psyched! Sure a few others will creep in too. Also want to complete all the 7's at Kilnsey. Just got about 8 or 9 remaining.

Kilnsey

Urgent Action - 8a+

Cold Steal - 8a

The Thumb - 8a

The Ashes - 7c+

Dominatrix - 7c

Dr Crimp - 8b+

Full Tilt - 8b

Northern Exposure - 8b+

Malham

Austrian Oak - 8b

Renaissance - 7c+

Breach Of The Peace - 8a

Cheedale

K3 - 8a+

Rubicon

Dangerous Brothers - 8a

LPT

Pas De Deux - 8a+

Raven Tor

Waddage - 8b

Weedkiller/Chimes - 8b

Source: Adam Lincoln Blog

[comPiler]

History of 8's
27 June 2010, 9:15 pm

Had a look over at my 8a logbook earlier, and was surprised by the amount of 8's i have done. Only really been climbing sport for 3 years, bar the odd sport climbing holiday. I have managed to do 45 8's in this time. This comprises of

4 8b's

13 8a+'s

28 8a's

Going to try and make my 50th a special one. Would be lovely if it was an 8b+. Though at the moment, i don't feel i have 8b+ in me. I need another month or so on the routes i have on my list, before i will jump on an 8b+ again. I am still ahead of schedule. My first 8b was climbed on the 9th of September last year. So i have 2 and a bit months to get on my game.

Source: Adam Lincoln Blog

[comPiler]

Ouch
1 July 2010, 9:35 am

Season has taken a bit of a knock back. Went to Kilnsey yesterday,  and got on Urgent Action. Had only done one warm up, Nerve ending, so perhaps was a little foolish. I set off and was feeling great, all the lower section felt easy. Got to the jug rest in middle of the lower wall, and felt a twinge in my middle finger. It didn't feel too bad, so after a quick shake i carried on. All the way through the jump move, and into the undercuts. I did the first move, but the bump to the second sika hold didn't go that well, i grabbed it wrong, and when i came to move off it to the jug, i fell. Grabbing the jug should be the route in the bag.

Anyway, on lowering down my finger felt a bit funny. Typical ligament damage feeling. I have been troubled with these over the years. I taped up for another go, but the tape made it feel worse. In the end i went home, not wanting to damage it any more. I have had these tweaks before and after a few days are ok to climb on. Not sure about this time, we shall see! Fingers crossed. Only i can't it hurts too much...

Might be time for a few weeks of trad.

Source: Adam Lincoln Blog

[comPiler]

Action!
15 July 2010, 8:58 pm

Well, the finger is on the mend, after doing a load of 7's for the last few weeks. With a bit of trad thrown in! I thought today would be the day to finish of Urgent Action. Would test the finger a little too. Had an awful warm up. I felt tired, from too many days climbing, conditions were bad, and i was climbing in a new pair of boots. First go i felt tired all the way up, feet slipping and eventually taking the long ride from the sika slap move. After a rest, i got back on again. Still feeling tired, i eventually get to the undercuts. I slap the first hold, then slap the second. Finger felt ok, i had the hold reasonably, though i feel tired reaching out too jug. Luckily i stick it, compose myself, then rattle on up the finishing groove. Didn't really enjoy the actual climb as i felt terrible on it. Previous redpoints have felt easier, but no success. That's the climbing game i guess.

So, what's next? Motivation and psyche is low, so going to leave The Thumb and Full Tilt for now. I have my eye on a bigger prize. Dr Crimp. I feel if i don't climb 8b+ this year, i will have failed. I am scared of failing. So as of the weekend, Dr Crimp with take priority till it is ticked. I feel a bit weaker than last year on it so i will start a dead hanging regime tonight, and also try and drop a bit of weight.

Speaking of which, i must crack on.

Out for now...

Source: Adam Lincoln Blog

[comPiler]

Kilnsey Conditions Update - Monday 20th July
20 July 2010, 12:08 pm

Most stuff dry. Top pitch of Claws looked a bit wet. Lots of rain as we left so wet patches may start to appear on Tuesday. Will update again on Wednesday evening.

Source: Adam Lincoln Blog

[comPiler]

Blog Changes
20 July 2010, 12:14 pm

Going to try and make this blog a bit more useful in future!

Going to add crag conditions in Yorkshire, when possible. Also any ascents of note. People love reading about what others are up to. Or at least i do!



Source: Adam Lincoln Blog

[comPiler]

So so close...
11 August 2010, 2:25 pm

So Kilnsey is pretty dry again. Just bottom of Full Tilt now a tad damp. Everyone is Ticking!

Jenny Wooward cruised 'The Thumb' yesterday. Karen Magog and Steve Crowe also ticking it. Basia added 'The Bulge' to her recent spell of good form. Others she has ticked include 'The Ashes' and 'Urgent Action'. She is now on Ecstasy, and looking good on her first go up it. Adam Jeewooth almost did Indian Summer first redpoint yesterday. He warmed up on Sticky wicket, but just kept going. He didn't bother having another redpoint, he gets bored very easily ;-)

As for me, well, i fell off one move from victory on Dr Crimp yesterday. So, my elusive 8b+ tick is close. I have a feeling it won't fall next go though. Far from it. People seem to think i had done it last week, not sure how that came about! Its not as if my clips came out of the route... Think i am going to go back Friday, and wait till lateish for the good temps. Both my projects at the moment require good temps to maximise chances of success.

Source: Adam Lincoln Blog

[comPiler]

8b Plus!
14 August 2010, 8:10 pm

Dr Crmp. Finally. The route has given me lots of ups and's downs. I have learnt a lot from it. I feel like so much pressure has built up to do the route, and it was becoming a bit of a drag to get on it.

The main thing was my sequence. No one else does the crux like me, and wasn't even sure i could link the route with my method. I could pull on at the crux,doing the moves, and climb to the belay. Adding the french whatever it is start into it took too much of an edge off me. Until the other day. I went from the ground to the second crux, and fell off. I breakthrough.  I still wasn't sure i could do it again. The funny thing is with climbing though, if you can do something once, no matter how improbable it feels, you can do it again. It has made me mentally stronger doing the route.

The next issue was it was very conditions dependent. The pocket is prone to seeping. It needs to be cold, but not that cold. You only get 3 or 4 redpoints a session due to the nature of one of the holds. You also lose fitness quickly on it as the crux is fairly low, so redpoints end early. This means you have to keep you PE, and strength topped up on other routes. This leads the mind to be distracted by other projects.

But anyway, it is done. I can move on. I have other fish to fry now. I have Northern Exposure to finish off from last year. This is a similar 8b+ to Dr Crimp, but the crux is at the top. I need to wait for good cold temps on this too. My other goals for Kilnsey this year, are Indian Summer, and Full Tilt. Both of which i have had a couple of days on. I feel light at the moment, so think i will concentrate on Full Tilt. Indian Summer might evade me this year. I also have the idea that i might get 8c this year too.

On top of this, I am going to open my account on Unjustified as soon as it is cold enough for Malham. It might be a bit much for me this year. Sensible people might want to do a few more 8b+'s first, but hey, if you don't push yourself, you can't experience failure.

Source: Adam Lincoln Blog

[comPiler]

Unjustified
18 August 2010, 7:57 pm

First day on Unjustified today. Apart from Evolution, this is the hardest route i have ever been on. After three goes up the route, i had linked the main section of the route. From the big undercuts, to the belay. The bottom bit is Something Stupid, and goes at a tricky 7b. Probably 7b+ by the time you get to the big undercuts. So. Do the numbers add up? 7b+ into an 8a/+. Who knows. The two sections don't feel that hard. Once linkage starts though, i am sure it is going to feel like a whole new kettle of fish. I am very psyched though, no other route has motivated me so much.

Can i make the step up from 8b to 8c in a year? Who knows. I am happy with 8b+ this year, if i can get an 8c as well, all the better!

It is a bit early really for Malham. In the sun during the day, conditions are bad. I really just wanted to get a feel for what i needed to do. I got a bit more out of the day than i was expecting. A lot more. Looking forward to the journey on this route! How ever long it may take.





Source: Adam Lincoln Blog

[comPiler]

The County
17 October 2010, 9:29 pm

Just had an ace weekend in the county. Filmed all the problems i did, so shall upload a film soon!

Ticklist

Transformer LH font 7c

The Yorkshireman font 7b+

Vienna font 7b+

Sprung font 7c

Staggered font 7b

Manta LH font 7b

Source: Adam Lincoln Blog

[comPiler]

Northumberland Vid
18 October 2010, 7:14 pm

As promised

from Adam Lincoln on Vimeo.

Source: Adam Lincoln Blog

[comPiler]

A day out at Curbar
23 October 2010, 5:37 pm

Short video from Thursday. Some fine ascents by Jordan and Pete. Reason for the bad style of ascent on Slackers for me was i top toped it years back, so had a quick look again on a toppy before the send. No point sticking your neck out on something you top roped years back! Also was useful to demo it for the other two.

from Adam Lincoln on Vimeo.

Source: Adam Lincoln Blog

[Johnny Brown]

That White Lines footage brings back some memories. I think that lower wall might be the most technical of Dawes' grit routes.

[Adam Lincoln]

That White Lines footage brings back some memories. I think that lower wall might be the most technical of Dawes' grit routes.

We thought Pete was off going for the break! Heart in mouth moment.

[Johnny Brown]

I bottled it in the end and made a jump for the bank on the right. It's hard enough getting to that little flake, and then mantelling it is just dismaying...

[Adam Lincoln]

I bottled it in the end and made a jump for the bank on the right. It's hard enough getting to that little flake, and then mantelling it is just dismaying...

Just pm'ing you on another matter!

[Adam Lincoln]

and then mantelling it is just dismaying...

You should have seen how easily Jordan did it. Dismaying!

[Falling Down]

Nic vid Adam. Thanks for filming, editing and sharing. 

[comPiler]

Balance It Is
26 October 2010, 11:44 am

Short clip i just made of Jordan flashing Balance It Is.

Enjoy.

from Adam Lincoln on Vimeo.

Source: Adam Lincoln Blog

[comPiler]

Giggling Crack!
8 November 2010, 1:46 pm

Vid of mine and Jordans recent tussle!

from Adam Lincoln on Vimeo.

Source: Adam Lincoln Blog

[comPiler]

Bottom Line
16 November 2010, 1:55 pm

Me and Jordan went to try the Bottom Line today at Brimham. Its a very strenuous E7 6c. We both had very good flash goes, both getting right to the last couple of moves. Jordan dispatched it next go, in true hero style, where i just faded at the same point as the flash. I think the 500 sit ups, 500 push ups and the 250 pull ups the night before had taken their toll. I will have to return, but here is a vid of Jordan crushing it.

from Adam Lincoln on Vimeo.

Source: Adam Lincoln Blog

[comPiler]

Three in the snow
19 December 2010, 5:43 pm

Fun hour in the snow at Longridge today. Repeated some classics on the circuit.

from Adam Lincoln on Vimeo.

Source: Adam Lincoln Blog

[comPiler]

The Ben
28 January 2011, 10:30 am

Been a boring few weeks. Training training training. Getting fit for the routes season. I'd given up any ideas of getting any more ice done when i get a phone call from Kev Avery looking for a partner for a weekend in Scotland. Now i have heard Kev is a bit handy, so jumped at the chance. I think if i am ever to succeed in my all the 8's challenge, i need to do it in Scotland. More choice, better conditions, and much much more satisfying day out. Just getting to the crag takes 2.5/3 hours. Eeek!

How can you not get excited by this!









Source: Adam Lincoln Blog

[comPiler]

Scotland trip - Day 1 - Ben Nevis
1 February 2011, 1:21 pm

Well i survived my Scotland trip with Kev. We certainly packed it in. Maybe not in a Paul reeve packing it in, but we felt knackered after both days! Only took a couple of beers and a burger (Hope you are not reading this Solly!) to finish us off Saturday night after a long day on the Ben. (4.30am start, up at the route for day break).

Anyway, 8.30am finds us kitting up at the bottom of Apache, a new route just to the right of Sioux Wall. Now i have never done a mixed route before so this 8/9 might have been a bit too much for a first. I set off leading the first pitch, and spend 20 minutes trying to get some gear in, which i eventually do, but am not happy with it. I piss around for another 5 minutes, and can sense i am out of my depth. I kind of suggested my feelings to Kev, who had since realised the madness of the idea already. So i down climb with difficulty back to the ground and we decide on another route. Just across the way, a route called Darth Vader. Slightly easier at Vii 8. The first pitch was a better intro to mixed climbing and i was getting used to the different techniques needed to gain vertical metres. The next pitch, and the pitch after that involved every bit of cunning i could summon to squirm up a snowy icy offwidth with a large overhang to overcome on the crux pitch. Crawling onto the top snow ledge, after all the difficulties, gripped/scared/exhausted (and i was only seconding) i felt relieved it was over. Though in a 'that was brilliant' kind of way you only get with climbing... We then did a quick solo of number 3 gully to get on top of The Ben for a great clear view with the sun on our backs.

Kev on the crux pitch of Dath Vader (Copyright Bob Wightman)



The whole day was topped off by not even getting benighted! We got back to the car without even needing to get the head torch out. My first mixed route in the bag, i was itching for more now. I saw so many classic lines i just can't wait to do.

Babylon

The Secret

To those who wait

Sioux Wall

Orion Face Direct

Source: Adam Lincoln Blog

[comPiler]

Lists
4 February 2011, 11:07 am

Right, no one likes a list better than me. What better way to get motivated in these wet and windy times. This year i want to do more trad. I did a bit last year, but want to get some longer trips to pembroke and wales in this year.

So trad list, of the harder stuff i want to do

North Wales

Ressurection E4

Lord E6

Jub Jub Bird E6

E5 that goes under Dreams and screams

Lots of the E5's on main cliff

Wreath of a deadly nightshade (E6/7)

Long Run Direct E6

Strawberries E6/7

Scotland

Some Scottish ticks from Extreme Rock

Lakes

Dawes Rides a Shovel Head E8

Hells Wall E6

Bleed In Hell E8

Shere Khan E5

Lost Horizons E5

Bucket City E5

Fast and furious E6

Pembroke

Anything!

Source: Adam Lincoln Blog

[JohnM]

If you are ever after a trad partner give me a shout.  Liverpool seems to be a bit of a back water for people who want to climb harder trad and partners are non-existent!  Most of the stuff on your list is on my 'list' and i've done a couple of them including Dawes and Hell's Wall so got the knowledge!  I'm really keen to finish Bleed In Hell and get up to Dove this year as well.  I really want to some of the classics in the Leap and Stennis Ford including Ghost Train and Point Blank if I get fit enough.

[Adam Lincoln]

Funnily enough John i was going to add you on facebook and see if you fancied getting out on the trad. My only real trad partner are Lovatt, and he only gets out on Sundays.

[JohnM]

Yeah I'm quite keen for onsighting or head pointing really.  There's a few things on grit as well I fancy getting back on and doing like Reservoir Dogs so get in touch on FB is you fancy getting out sometime.

[comPiler]

Scotland trip - Day 2 - Mooching
7 February 2011, 11:07 am

After the hard day Saturday, it was a leisurely start to the day Sunday. Chatting in the CC hut and taking our time. Plan was to head onto Annoch Mor, which requires a tiny walk in if you get the Gondola up from Nevis Range ski centre. Anyway, on arrival it was windy as hell, and visibility looked bad. We decided to go for a coffee in Fort William and make a decision. We needed to kill time anyway, as if we ended up snowboarding, lift pass gets dirt cheap at mid day.

That is in fact what we end up doing. Visibility looks clearer as we get back to the car park. So we buy our tickets and head up. I am used to European and American resorts, so all the T-bars and poma's are a bit of a shock. Ouch! The other thing i was soon to find out about was all the ice on the runs. Visibility came and went during the day, and so we alternated between staying below the cloud when it was crap, and getting up higher on the clearer periods.

Wasn't a bad day, fun was had by all, and i practiced some jumps. One below is about the best shot, but quite a bit of lens fog and me attempting to fly (What was i doing!?) mean it isn't the best pic. Sums up Scotland snowboarding though!



Source: Adam Lincoln Blog

[comPiler]

Wales - Crafnant
14 February 2011, 11:29 pm

An early start saw a rendezvous outside a Crafnant pub with Chris Davies, our guide for the day, Jordan, Nao and Al Lee. Al is making a new bouldering film, so we were hoping to get some problems done and get get some decent footage. On the walk up the weather was good, but the rock was wet. A little worried we scrambled around looking at the classic problems, and waiting for the sun and wind to dry the rock.

An hour later we were warming up. We started with the classic slopey arete which forms part of Chris's new problem, My private Idaho, 8b. A classic three star warm up. What more can you ask for. After that we hopped on Chris Doyle's classic, Wonderwall. He did this back in the day, and gave it V7, but others think it is harder. There has been a hold breakage which people think might make it harder. Me, Jord and Cookie,(who has just turned up with Emma) all flash the problem. None of us are shy of the crimp and all think V8/7b. Thoughts of others are 7b+ is more fitting. Whatever, its a classic problem. Emma also does it, only needing to get through the crux crimp move once, and styled the top.

After this we jump on Cruella. A Mark Katz problem, also from back in the day. After a few goes, i am falling off the crux, until Jordan comes along and flashes it with a simpler sequence. Typical. I dispatch next go. Another V8/7b?

I go for a look round the corner at the classic V11, special K. Dave Nodder put it up last year. Its a rising traverse line along some impeccable crimps and slopers. A quick flash go See's me pinging off the crux due to a damp hold. More chalking, and a few goes later, i find myself past the crux, and ready to cruise home to victory, when Al, filming decides to try and knock me off the problem by whacking me in the face with a camera! He has it on the end of a boom, and as he is looking at whats going on through a LCD screen, he can't tell how far he is away from the rock. Anyway, he slips, camera boom whacks me in the head, but

i wasn't for letting go and shake my way to the top. Not sure about the grade on this.Took me about 15 mins. I guess V11 traverse is different to V11 bloc, so not sure if its worth the grade, Its def soft, but what is more important is its brilliant, better than Jerrys Roof! Jordan flashes it and Cookie does it shortly after.

(Pic of Special K, Copyright Naomi Buys)



Getting tired, me and Jord still want to do Grasswind. A Danny Cattell problem which he gave V9. We both have some good goes, but don't quite stick the crux throw. Its a bit scary, and we are tired. The rock is also sharp. Anyway, i do it, and then Jordan, inevitably does it next go, not wanting to be out done. ;-)

So a top day had by all, Al got some good footage, we all did some classic problems. I write this sat in the CC hut in Llanberis trying to decide if i should wait out the rain and climb at Porth Ysgo tomorrow, or go home and come back midweek when the weather looks better. I have a project i want to do near Porth Ysgo, which will be a classic 3 star line, somewhere around the V10 range. A little highball though. I also want to have a look at a couple of other classic established problems, pr0n makes me horny, V10, Tide of dreams, V10, and a slopey V11 i forget the name of.

What to do. Tempted to go home and get in my own bed. Might go via V12 in Llanberis and pick up the guide i need for Tunnel Walls in Scotland. This is on the list of places i want to visit in the next few months. Hopefully get a visit in before the nasty biting flys arrive!

Out for now.



Source: Adam Lincoln Blog

[comPiler]

Iron Man Right Hand
28 February 2011, 11:26 pm

I went to Trowbarrow today to finish up Pacman (8a) from the other day. When i arrived though, the starting holds were seeping. They wouldn't dry, so after a rethink, i decided on Iron Man Right Hand. I had already done Iron Man a year or so ago, and had done the new variant on Vitruvian Man. So no new climbing needed, but still a stiff link! And good training for Pacman.

Here is the footage.



Source: Adam Lincoln Blog

[shark]

Wales - Crafnant
i find myself past the crux, and ready to cruise home to victory, when Al, filming decides to try and knock me off the problem by whacking me in the face with a camera! He has it on the end of a boom, and as he is looking at whats going on through a LCD screen, he can't tell how far he is away from the rock. Anyway, he slips, camera boom whacks me in the head, but i wasn't for letting go and shake my way to the top.

Dab?

[Adam Lincoln]

Wales - Crafnant
i find myself past the crux, and ready to cruise home to victory, when Al, filming decides to try and knock me off the problem by whacking me in the face with a camera! He has it on the end of a boom, and as he is looking at whats going on through a LCD screen, he can't tell how far he is away from the rock. Anyway, he slips, camera boom whacks me in the head, but i wasn't for letting go and shake my way to the top.

Dab?

Extra V point more like! 

[comPiler]

Road to 8c!
24 May 2011, 9:34 pm

Again, i am sorry for lack of blogging lately. I have left out all my trip to Spain, which i will update my blog with soon! The last month has all been about Unjustified, and climbing my first 8c. This is number one priority. It marks a benchmark that i never thought would be possible. I have improved a grade every year for the last 2 years. 8b, 8b+, and hopefully this year, 8c.

I had a day on the route last year. I linked from the crux to the top on a top rope. My first day on it this year, i lead from the crux to the top. The second day i had lead the route in two halves on a number of occasions. Now i have started redpointing, and falling off at the crux. I think once i do the one move i will have a good chance of getting pretty high, hopefully even doing it reasonably quick.

I have made a personally choice to clip every clip bar the first on every redpoint. A lot of people who have done this route have had it pre clipped up to the crux. This for me is not an option, and reduces the challenge a little.

I have also been training pretty hard the last few weeks at the wall, doing circuits and bouldering in volume. I have reduced my weight a little, and hope i can peak sometime soon. I am hoping day 4 on the route will show the rapid improvement the first three have shown.

Source: Adam Lincoln Blog

[Duma]

Road to 8c!
24 May 2011, 9:34 pmA lot of people who have done this route have had it pre clipped up to the crux.
Source: Adam Lincoln Blog

Unjustified indeed!

[JohnM]

How hard would you say the crux is on Unjustified?

[Adam Lincoln]

How hard would you say the crux is on Unjustified?

V5.

[Nike Air]

How hard would you say the crux is on Unjustified?

V5.

Anyone done Predator, Power Ranger and Unjustified, wonder how they compare grade wise??????

[Stu Littlefair]

Are you asking about the Cruxes alone Jordan, or the whole route?

For the Cruxes, the order is
Predator - Unjustified - Power Ranger

For the routes in their entirety, I guess it'll depend very much on how your strengths lie on the bouldering/endurance spectrum. For me the order is

Predator - Power Ranger - Unjustified

and the given grades are about right, with all three routes at the lower end of their respective grades.

(NB: people bitch about the iPhone keyboard a lot, but to my mind it speaks a deeper truth. Depending on how you mistype, it translates 'grades' as either 'gaffes' or 'farces'.)

[Nigel]

How hard would you say the crux is on Unjustified?

V5.

Anyone done Predator, Power Ranger and Unjustified, wonder how they compare grade wise??????

Tony Mitchell?

Mawsons will no doubt do Unjustified at some point so he could say?

[Nike Air]

Stu, Yea was thinking about the whole route really, tho cruxes are the thing that makes it hard.  I cant say too much about it all but will have a better idea when I've done bat route, cry freedom and all out.
The reason i was asking of those three routes is I guess its best to compare climbs at the same cliff before taking it further afield?
My list so far in the order I find the most difficult in Yorkshire, note not the grades tho.
True North
Cry Freedom not done yet
Bat Route not done
Accelerator
Power Ranger
Unjustified
Indian Summer

But like you say strengths make all the difference, sure this list will change as I change........

Tony did two of those routes before holds broke

[Stu Littlefair]

I feel a bit bad taking over Adam's blog thread to do this, but maybe it'll help him write the guide?

Malc has also done those three particular routes. Rob Napier might too, depending on whether he's done Power Ranger or not.
Jordan - your list looks pretty sound. One thing to bear in mind is that you spent ages using a gash sequence on Power Ranger!
Interesting that it's higher than Indian Summer and Unjustified on your list; I thought it was borderline 8b/+. Certainly, I thought the crux moves were easier than those on Indian Summer, and the climbing to get there is about 3 grades easier...

[Nike Air]

Twice now me reply has deleted itself somehow. Maybe this is a good thing...
I thought P.R 8b+/c is that makes a difference..

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Hampi
6 February 2012, 1:11 pm

Just got back from an amazing trip to Hampi. Its made my mind up that spending winters in the UK is not for me. You can be living on £10 a day in paradise, thinking about nothing else but climbing, eating good food, and drinking the odd cold Kingfisher beer. (Please drink responsibly though kids!)

Hampi isn't all the paradise picture that i paint though. In fact, for me, it was a bit of a love hate relationship. When you are getting up your projects, its fine. When you are not however, you can blame it on any number of things. Terrible conditions, unless up at 6am. Sharp rock. Yep, sharpest rock in have ever experienced. Terrible guide. Takes quite a while to find the problems. (Though this is due to change with a new guide due out soon). Don't even bother buying the glossy guide written my Rohit. Save your money! Then again, climbing wouldn't be half as much fun if everything was easy, would it....

So, the climbing. Well. There is so much rock, i couldn't even begin to describe the vastness. Every direction you look, there is miles and miles and miles of boulders. Not all of them can be climbed. Lack of holds, terrible landings. etc etc. Even if 5% has been/could be climbed, its still the most extensive place for bouldering/potential new problems i have ever been too. I have been to most of the bouldering destinations in the world to base that comment on.

So anyone thinking of going out, here is a top ten of must do problems. Not in any specific order.

1) Goan Corner - 7c2) Middle Way - 8a/+3) Double Tap - 7b4) Kundalini Rising - 7c5) Surfer Traverse - 7c6) 90 Degree Arete - 7a7) The Diamond - 8a8) Indian Summer - 7c+9) Mental Mantle - 6c+/7a10) Sleeping Budda - 7c

Writing this list, i have just though of another 20 that could/should be in the top ten!

I can think of another 20 other problems that are amazing and don't even have names. These problems are just in one small tiny area of Hampi. Times this by 100 and you are starting to get an idea of how much amazing rock there is.

Words can only describe so much. Here are some pictures from my trip.

Classic WarmupSurfer Traverse - 7cCosmic Friction - 7aCosmic Arete - 7a+Mental Mantle - 6c+/7aBabas in space - 7a+French Traverse - 7aUnknown classic 7bAirplane - 7bMiddleway - 8a/+Middleway - 8a/+Middleway - 8a/+



Source: Adam Lincoln Blog