[Willriseley]

So currently wearing my trusty 3 year old red chilli lace ups, which now stink, rubbers going a bit thin in places and i am bored of them.
Currently like either the 5.10 anasanzi verde lace ups, 5.10 jet 7's and katana laces, obviously huge diff in prices on them but anyone give any advice?

Personally im leaning towards the jet7 as they good reveiws and look a nice shoe, altho i like lace ups for better adjustment

[Paul B]

have you tried any of them on?

[Willriseley]

Not yet im trying to save at least £100 so if i like katanas then i can get them. Like to try some velcros for ease of on and off but dont know if the adjustment would b the same, katanas good for edging

[Paul B]

Are you looking for a specific type of shoe (steep stuff, edging, all-day multi-pitch slog shoe etc.)?

If not its simple, whichever fits best. The three shoes you've mentioned are very different iin almost every way I can think of. 

[Willriseley]

bouldering, edgey, overhang stuff, ideally snug as apposed to crammed in i guess

[JamesD]

Mate you should try the Scarpa Vapour Velcro as well, really excellent grippy rubber (same as used on the la sportiva solutions), and can be worn really tight whilst still being comfortable (on my feet anyway), well worth a try.....and if you fit in Katana's you will probably fit in the vapours.
Downturned enough for reasonable edging performance, and flexible enough to allow half decent smearing, i've tried the lace-up which felt really good, and apparently the velcro is slightly softer, which I think would make for a great all round shoe*

*From my limited experience 

[ben87]

bouldering, edgey, overhang stuff, ideally snug as apposed to crammed in i guess

Don't buy the verdes then.

[al123]

try the five ten vmiles, i have a pair and they are pretty comfy and still nice and stiff and precise. try lots of shoes on and waste the shops time 

[205Chris]

I've not tried the Katana lace but if there's a Go Outdoors near you have a look at this for cheap priced velcro Katanas.

Outside in Hathersage had Jet 7s for 65 quid a couple of weeks ago.

[JamesD]

This guy has a lot of good things to say about the La Sportiva Muira:

The King of Shoes: La Sportiva finds what they were searching for; a blend between the sport climbing shoe and the bouldering shoe.

Every climber needs a partner. I have two; these shoes. I trust these fuckers more than I trust my belayer half of the time. La Sportiva wasn't fooling around here; the Miuras will save your fatass when you should've popped, they'll manage a heel when there's nothing to heel on, and they'll make you wonder why there hasn't been such perfection in a shoe until now.

I have sent more projects in these shoes then ever before. I'm on my second pair, and still going strong. They're durable, they climb in the gym, they climb outside, they do it all. Aggressive enough for roofs and steep bouldering, but not so aggressive that you can't climb trad or techy vert walls. Fits like a glove, and the strap system is key. Screw laces. When I've been sitting in the car for hours upon hours, I'm ready to sprint through the approach, throw my shoes on and send my project first go; I don't want to spend time dealing with stupid laces.

La Sportiva, thank you for finally getting a strap system right. Unlike the shitty, flashy ineffective strap system the solution has, or taking forever with the laces of the regular Miura, the Miura VS gets straight the point. Thick fat straps, giant areas to place the velcro, and THREE of them at that to make sure the shoe sticks to your foot like fucking spiderman so you don't have to worry about your foot popping off when you're on the heel hook hand/foot match of your V-what-have-you proj.

Story time: I literally bested out my buddy on a V9 boulder problem outside (Ross Bongo, 5 Star boulder, Gold Bar) heeling around the corner on a move. I asked him if he could tick mark what I was throwing my heel on, and it turned out to be a flat wall. No hold, no hook, just a heel SMEAR. A new move pioneered by these godly shoes; a move that neither of my buddies could do with their far less superior shoes. Did I send the route, you ask? No, because I'm not a god damn V9 climber. I'm like a V7 climber. But these shoes make me climb moves on V9's. BOOYAH.

I could rant about these shoes for days. When it comes down to it, each time I put them on I feel like I'm the green lantern who just put on his ring, or spiderman putting on his outfit, or even ash fucking throwing his pokeball and having his charizard come out. I feel like each time I put these on, the chicago bulls theme song should play, confetti should burst from the sky, and a giant list of all the countless things I've sent in these should be etched in granite in a giant statue.

Yes, they're pricy. Yes, they're better than any shoe. Want more proof? Send me a message, I'll send you a video of me nearly onsighting a V6 outside in them, or making it to finals at a collegiate level climbing comp (several times) and straight up owning. Did I do this BEFORE I had these shoes? Maybe a little bit, but definitely not to this degree. Sell one of your kids and dump the cash on these shoes and a plane ticket to your climbing paradise. Do it now.

-wyse

[Paul B]

That amount of spray made my eyes hurt.

[205Chris]

This guy has a lot of good things to say about the La Sportiva Muira:

Yes, they're better than any shoe. Want more proof? Send me a message, I'll send you a video of me nearly onsighting a V6 outside in them.

-wyse

That's dynamite. With advertising like that I bet La Sportiva are beating a path to this guy's door to sponsor him.

[JamesD]

I think this was by far my favourite quote:

"When it comes down to it, each time I put them on I feel like I'm the green lantern who just put on his ring, or spiderman putting on his outfit, or even ash fucking throwing his pokeball and having his charizard come out. I feel like each time I put these on, the chicago bulls theme song should play, confetti should burst from the sky, and a giant list of all the countless things I've sent in these should be etched in granite in a giant statue."

[chris_j_s]

I'll send you a video of me nearly onsighting a V6 outside in them

  

Comedy gold!

[JamesD]

I just had to add some of it as a signature, couldn't stop laughing the first time I read it 

[Wipey Why]

If that is a joke it is comedy genius if not i'm worried 

[neil h]

don't buy muira they are shit, in fact dont buy anything from sportiva, they are the most expensive shoe out there, yes I climb a lot but I would be lucky to get 2 months out of a pair of shoes.I have had 3 pairs in the last 2 months and each pair has only lasted a couple of weeks, the heel disintegrates in just a couple of sessions, now sportiva are refusing to deal with my complaint and wont refund or even change the shoe for me

rant over

[Willriseley]

Right shopping for shoesys on sat hopefully, looking at either some anasanzis or jet 7's??? If the place can cut me a deal i might buy both 

[Richie Crouch]

Definitely try on some Jet 7's if you get a chance as they soften up a lot and are perfect for pulling with toes on steeper stuff but retaining a bit of an ability to smear due to their softness and flattening out a bit.

[JamesD]

If they have some try the katanas along side the anasazis, really nice shoe...if they fit of course.
Dragons are worth looking at for a steep shoe as well, I imagine they are a bit more supportive than the jet 7's that single velcro strap does not fill me with confidence in the long term!

[Snoops]

I own 5.10 anas velcro's and katana's like them both (prefer katana). They are all tight  fit and although fine over here, on a summer's bouldering trip f;;king hurt. I want to get a shoe for a couple of weeks in font that i can wear  without havinh to squeeze out of every 2 minutes, but not so loose i cant use them back in blighty?

Any ideas peeps?

[BB]

Anasazis or katanas in a larger size?

[erm, sam]

I want to get a shoe for a couple of weeks in font that i can wear  without havinh to squeeze out of every 2 minutes, but not so loose i cant use them back in blighty?

I have a pair of Red Chili Spirits for that exact purpose. Only worn for multi day easy and medium sessions..

[Snoops]

Cheers

[Willriseley]

so in the end went for katanas with added velcro, wanted laces but didnt want spend the extra money  street size of an 8 but managed to get into a 6  in the kats, there plenty tight, seem a great shoe out of the box, edge nice and the heel is super tight, we shall see if they either disintegrate or stretch like hell, still want kat laces but they can wait