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Slimline - Waldkopf (Read 2499 times)

The Sausage

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Slimline - Waldkopf
May 29, 2010, 08:38:41 am
I'm posting this question in a state of wishful thinking. Do people do Slimline with the 2nd bolt pre-clipped? The rest seems alright-ish, but clipping the 2nd bolt is desperate. As a generally mouthy critic of these sort of tactics, I realise I deserve reasonable levels of abuse for even thinking it's acceptable...

Thanks anyway. Currently lovely in the Frank', but weather looks set to crap out. Balls.

benpritch

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#1 Re: Slimline - Waldkopf
May 29, 2010, 08:51:41 am
I was trying it with the second clipped but everyone I was with did it without. I thought it was badly bolted and didn't feel confident about making the
clip safely. I think you should do it in a way that will be enjoyable an satisfying for you. If you care what people think you should probably clip it though? Hope that ramble helps. Good route however you do it I think.

The Sausage

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#2 Re: Slimline - Waldkopf
May 29, 2010, 12:51:11 pm
Hi Ben, Thanks for the reply. I imagine I'll probably do it with the second clipped, unless I get back on it and find the clip is suddenly alright. Unlikely. There are too many other good things to do to spend an extra session sorting out the clip.

What was your sequence? I get the lower of 2 pockets to the right of 2nd bolt with my right, then come into 2 finger pocket up & left of 2nd bolt with my left. I then go over the top with my left to the oval crimpy pocket, and then do a long cross back left with my right to a good 2 finger pocket, where I clip the third. Hope that makes sense.

If only the feet were slightly better...

benpritch

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#3 Re: Slimline - Waldkopf
May 29, 2010, 01:25:34 pm
Hi joe, I matched low and went with my right to the uncomfortable pocket right of
danger clip. This meant I made along reach with my left where you crossed over. Your sequence was the sequence used by a couple of other peeps I saw doing
it.

Paul B

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#4 Re: Slimline - Waldkopf
May 29, 2010, 08:14:33 pm
joe is this after the heel toe malarky leaving the break? I'm struggling to remember where the bolts are in relation to the moves. I've even checked my photos and can't tell!

(BTW have you done the 7c at Soranger Wand that looks like a scaled down Aktion? Its pretty fun).
« Last Edit: May 29, 2010, 08:27:34 pm by Paul B »

Andy Harris

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#5 Re: Slimline - Waldkopf
May 29, 2010, 10:57:05 pm
Hi Joe & Vic,

wow, it's so long since I was at the Waldkopf and I  can't remember this clip at all but I'm sure I'd have made it. Problem is on holds like that you are clippping then you get spat off in a fraction of a second rather than a wain. It's your call but I'm  sure many have preclipped it. There's another 8a to the right which is not so high on quality but incredible short. Does it still get 8a or did they upgrade it. Always was a bit stiff for 8a.

Not sure where else you've been but Witchcraft in the Ailsbachtal is cool on a great bit of rock. Perpetum Mobile at the Spitzenstein and Kaum Zeit zum atmen at the Luisenwand are also classic but 8a+. Then there's always the most famous move in the Frankenjura, the "crossover" move on the Electrische Sturm at the Klagemauer, a must for visiting brits.

If you get a chance bring me back a beer or 2 from The restaurant Meister in Unterzaunsbach just down from the campground

 

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