[Fiend]

Original line starts on the right and traverses left to the threads, new Rockfax suggests starting on the left up the other E5 and traversing right to the threads. This latter way looks considerably harder and more sustained. Which is the true default way and likely to give the best overall experience??

[SA Chris]

Just do the direct start if you are unsure

[Darren S]

The original start, or as Chris says, if you want the ultimate experience you can do the direct start. Spotted Andy on the first ascent and it was frightening enough, luckily I am not good enough to ever contemplate the direct. Actually come to think of I am not good enough for the original either

[Twiglett]

I did this last year and the way I started (which is commonplace) is up the vdiff corner and traverse the upper of the 2 breaks to the arete. One the best routes I've ever done - defo the best E5 I've done I think.

[Stabbsy]

Can't remember the exact details, but I think Steve Crowe and Karin Magog did a further variation start traversing the lower break from the right with some tough moves up the front face to the threads. Slightly harder E5 I think.

Traversing the high break from the right is definitely what was described to me as the correct start.

[Ged]

Definitley start up absent friend (to the left), makes it a miles better route in my opinion (and it's already awesome).  Good bouldery start to good gear and shake out, nip out to the threads, and go for glory up the arete.  Makes the last move pretty wild, you can't see your belayer or any gear, just your rope snaking away into oblivion.  Awesome.  Still E5 mind, I know it was generally considered soft for the grade with the original start, so this probably just makes it proper E5.

Absent friend is well worth doing to.  Pretty hard, but very safe.  Maybe 7a+?  and when you've done that...

Crisis Zone.  Simply stunning.  I think Endless flight left hand start and crisis zone are the 2 best "craggy" routes i've done.  Better than anything on the grit (that I've done I mean), and surely the best routes in the county