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Ondrawad (Read 862949 times)

MischaHY

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#2375 Re: Ondrawad
March 06, 2023, 03:20:16 pm
The most impressive thing about Ondra is how he takes every detail to the next level. For example, that's probably the first ascent of Fat Lip where the climber switches their left shoe mid-route. True dedication to the craft  :whistle:

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#2376 Re: Ondrawad
March 06, 2023, 04:23:45 pm

Proper wholesome seeing how hyped Adam gets when he does stuff - you'd think he'd be used to it now being the "best climber in the world", nice to see he still genuinely loves it

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#2377 Re: Ondrawad
March 06, 2023, 09:28:41 pm
 :agree: , that is why he is usually so inspiring. "The best climber is the one having the most fun (whilst also being the best)"

Good video, nice tribute to Ben and Jerry, I like the interview on Windy Ledge!

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#2378 Re: Ondrawad
March 20, 2023, 02:40:51 pm
Ondra really does not like to clip draws very much



Also: Ondra does not think that he has done more than two 9a onsight.

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#2379 Re: Ondrawad
March 20, 2023, 02:43:22 pm
Lol he's such a savage

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#2380 Re: Ondrawad
March 20, 2023, 04:29:35 pm
Also: Ondra does not think that he has done more than two 9a onsight.

That is interesting, I heard it as him saying it was harder than Cabane au Canada and TCT but similar difficulty to Il Domani. From my arm chair punter position that seems about right.

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#2381 Re: Ondrawad
March 20, 2023, 04:34:18 pm
Also: Ondra does not think that he has done more than two 9a onsight.

That is interesting, I heard it as him saying it was harder than Cabane au Canada and TCT but similar difficulty to Il Domani. From my arm chair punter position that seems about right.

At 8:06 he says "...Il Domani that I onsighted back in 2014, so I had to wait 8 years before I finally climbed a 9a onsight again"

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#2382 Re: Ondrawad
March 20, 2023, 04:47:47 pm
Also: Ondra does not think that he has done more than two 9a onsight.

That is interesting, I heard it as him saying it was harder than Cabane au Canada and TCT but similar difficulty to Il Domani. From my arm chair punter position that seems about right.

At 8:06 he says "...Il Domani that I onsighted back in 2014, so I had to wait 8 years before I finally climbed a 9a onsight again"

I think it's a bit ambiguous as he also onsighted TCT in 2014, so you could either read it as "8 years since I climbed Il Domani" or "8 years since 2014".

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#2383 Re: Ondrawad
March 20, 2023, 04:52:37 pm
But he also said it was his second since Il Domani? (not that I know anything about sport climbing or what TCT even is!) just I thought ondra seemed specific on this one from my armchair

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#2384 Re: Ondrawad
March 20, 2023, 05:17:55 pm
TCT is a route in Gravere, Italy, and it has also been onsighted by Alex Megosl. Cabane au Canada is "significantly easier than Le Minimum" according to Seb Bouin (quote from memory, so I might be mistaken).

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#2385 Re: Ondrawad
March 20, 2023, 05:24:31 pm
On Ondra's scorecard he's edited Cabane au Canada down to 8c+, but left TCT at 9a

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#2386 Re: Ondrawad
March 20, 2023, 07:11:03 pm
Cabane au Canada is "significantly easier than Le Minimum" according to Seb Bouin (quote from memory, so I might be mistaken).

I remember the quote being C au C significantly easier than Azincourt 8c.

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#2387 Re: Ondrawad
March 20, 2023, 09:43:30 pm
Cabane au Canada is "significantly easier than Le Minimum" according to Seb Bouin (quote from memory, so I might be mistaken).

I remember the quote being C au C significantly easier than Azincourt 8c.

There you go, my memory is not to be trusted.

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#2388 Re: Ondrawad
March 20, 2023, 10:19:38 pm
Cabane au Canada is "significantly easier than Le Minimum" according to Seb Bouin (quote from memory, so I might be mistaken).

I remember the quote being C au C significantly easier than Azincourt 8c.

Stamina wad in stamina route easier than bouldery route shocker!

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#2389 Re: Ondrawad
March 21, 2023, 07:04:32 am
Found the Grimper article this came from:

https://www.grimper.com/news-azincourt-premier-8c-france-seb-bouin-ajoute-nouvelle-piece-vintage-rock-tour

Beyond the historical interest, Seb Bouin emphasizes that it is sometimes interesting to return to the classics so as not to lose sight of what the reference quotations are. For example, he has no doubt that Agincourt is a notch tougher than La Cabane au Canada , yet rated 9a.


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#2390 Re: Ondrawad
March 21, 2023, 07:27:40 am
But, but, does that mean Agincourt is undergraded?

Seems like the relative difficulty of the cutting edge routes from that time is a bit all over the place. Or is Agincourt *the* baseline 8c.

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#2391 Re: Ondrawad
March 21, 2023, 09:01:21 am
Moon wrote a magazine article at the time literally saying “everyone doing hard routes except me and my mate Jerry are grading them too high” so seeing as no one listened to him everything they were doing should surely go up a grade? Quite a few already have as I understand it.
« Last Edit: March 21, 2023, 09:23:34 am by cheque »

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#2392 Re: Ondrawad
March 21, 2023, 09:14:56 am
How does Agincourt break down into boulder grades etc?  (and how does this compare to other benchmark 8cs?)

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#2393 Re: Ondrawad
March 21, 2023, 11:11:02 am
There’s a video on YouTube of Ben going back on it a few years ago and he talks about it a different sequence in use. Not clear how different but the video is worth checking, not least to watch BM nearly retro flash La Rose

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#2394 Re: Ondrawad
March 21, 2023, 02:11:23 pm
I think a lot of routes at buoux would be up graded if done now but maybe its down to the style of them being unpopular rather than them being hard.

I have heard said many times. Chouca is harder than most 8bs in spain, Rose would be 8c in spain and now Agincourt is harder than an 8c+ (9a) in Swizz. Hubble up to 9a and LA 8c+, cry freedom 8c, the oak 8b.

People used to head to Ceuse as it was thought the grades were soft, now i hear people say its tough.

Seems a trend, not one i agree with but a trend anyway. If the buoux routes got more traffic i feel they would go up.



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#2395 Re: Ondrawad
March 21, 2023, 02:12:45 pm
Ondra and Seb seem to have a rep of being tough/down graders but maybe they are the ones who are right.

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#2396 Re: Ondrawad
March 21, 2023, 02:22:56 pm
People are also quite bad at the style of Buoux and would do much better if they spend a season or two there.

I consider myself pretty allround, but the first time I visited a local crag I stood on a sling to get to the anchor of a bog-standard, middle-of-the grade 6c. After having climbed there a bit and having gotten used to the style I did one of the harder 8as on the crag second go.

(Céüse has also been down-graded by half a grade almost across the board compared to the first edition of the topo. Femme Noire used to be unpolished and 7c+, now it is polished to a shine and 7c, etc etc)

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#2397 Re: Ondrawad
March 21, 2023, 04:19:57 pm
Totally OT but I thought Femme Noire was bang on at the 7c+ it gets in the newest guide.

Agree with the wider point about having to get used to the style of a place.

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#2398 Re: Ondrawad
March 21, 2023, 06:00:05 pm
There’s a video on YouTube of Ben going back on it a few years ago and he talks about it a different sequence in use. Not clear how different but the video is worth checking, not least to watch BM nearly retro flash La Rose

Just rewatched this and Ben says the crux is around Font 7C+ on small pockets up a blank wall (the famous shot hanging the pockets with feet off). Its seems like a lower rockover that Ben did using a small sharp crimp is circumvented by holds slightly to the right that Ben didn't use. Doesn't avoid the main crux move though

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#2399 Re: Ondrawad
March 21, 2023, 08:30:00 pm

I consider myself pretty allround, but the first time I visited a local crag I stood on a sling to get to the anchor of a bog-standard, middle-of-the grade 6c.

If you need to stand on a sling to get up it, it doesn't sound much like a bog-standard middle-of-the-grade 6c to me.

 

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