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Megoswad (Read 96651 times)

Adam Lincoln

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#300 Re: Megoswad
August 07, 2020, 02:41:33 pm

Yeah, 100%. In fact I'd raise you and bet Megos will never do Silence.

Most likely, although I would love to see him up there grappling with that crack!

I heard silence has been partially ruined due to someone trying to make a replica/mould of it.

Ged

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#301 Re: Megoswad
August 07, 2020, 02:44:53 pm
Seriously? Ruined as in left crap on the rock whilst making a mold, or damaged the rock?

spidermonkey09

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#302 Re: Megoswad
August 07, 2020, 02:46:19 pm
I've heard that rumour too but I think its bollocks borne of people spaffing on Insta. See this post.

https://www.reddit.com/r/climbing/comments/i1p2ds/the_silence_was_not_chipped_or_glued/

Adam Lincoln

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#303 Re: Megoswad
August 07, 2020, 02:50:34 pm
I've heard that rumour too but I think its bollocks borne of people spaffing on Insta. See this post.

https://www.reddit.com/r/climbing/comments/i1p2ds/the_silence_was_not_chipped_or_glued/

If its true that its sorted then fair enough. Not read all the comments to confirm if its fixed and back to original form.

spidermonkey09

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#304 Re: Megoswad
August 07, 2020, 03:17:18 pm

If its true that its sorted then fair enough. Not read all the comments to confirm if its fixed and back to original form.

Basically it sounds like if Seb had given it a brush there wouldn't have been an issue  :lol:

Adam Lincoln

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#305 Re: Megoswad
August 07, 2020, 03:23:52 pm

If its true that its sorted then fair enough. Not read all the comments to confirm if its fixed and back to original form.

Basically it sounds like if Seb had given it a brush there wouldn't have been an issue  :lol:

Ive just asked henning ‘keeper of the cave’ what the score is for definitive answer.

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#306 Re: Megoswad
August 07, 2020, 03:44:05 pm
Sounds like Pavel Blazek (Ondra's manager?) owned up to it but actually all a bit of a non-issue.

Next level stuff though creating an exact replica of the holds etc. Like those Japanese climbers who made resin copies of the holds on Burden of Dreams. Sounds like something for the thread about the future of climbing; why bother getting on a plane and messing about with conditions when you could rent a warehouse and build an exact replica?

Disclaimer - I can think of many reasons, but still...

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#307 Re: Megoswad
August 07, 2020, 03:45:09 pm
Dunno, I spent 3 weeks in july there the year after moving from SA, and it was pretty hot (almost too hot) most days. Guess the sectors I was on didn't overhang by 30 degrees though.
I lived there the summers of 91 and 92 and thought conditions were great on the Berlin/ biography sectors. Cascade more of a winter venue, perfect in the sun other than cornice collapse.
Nah it's all good - just have to get up earlier for Cascade

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#308 Re: Megoswad
August 07, 2020, 04:08:56 pm

Ive just asked henning ‘keeper of the cave’ what the score is for definitive answer.

Chris says hi!!

cheque

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#309 Re: Megoswad
August 07, 2020, 04:20:31 pm
I heard silence has been partially ruined due to someone trying to make a replica/mould of it.

Just another similarity between Silence and Overlapping Wall at Broadbottom Quarry.

Adam Lincoln

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#310 Re: Megoswad
August 07, 2020, 04:27:14 pm
I heard silence has been partially ruined due to someone trying to make a replica/mould of it.

Just another similarity between Silence and Overlapping Wall at Broadbottom Quarry.

 :lol:

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#311 Re: Megoswad
August 07, 2020, 06:16:13 pm
So how does something like this work in terms of project etiquette?

I gather Ethan Pringle bolted it. When he realised it wasn't going to happen, did he bequeath it personally to Alex? Or was it an open project, but the other (two or three) contenders politely stayed away when they got wind that Alex was working it?

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#312 Re: Megoswad
August 07, 2020, 06:28:45 pm
I’d love to celebrate this achievement but I’ve no idea if Megos eats healthily enough. Does anyone have the details on that?  ;)

Have you not heard the one about him being carried away from a comp ?(not a joke)

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#313 Re: Megoswad
August 07, 2020, 06:32:03 pm
Have you not heard the one about him being carried away from a comp ?(not a joke)

Really? Tell me more.

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#314 Re: Megoswad
August 07, 2020, 06:33:02 pm
Have you not heard the one about him being carried away from a comp ?(not a joke)

Really? Tell me more.

Just heard he got carried away from a comp cos he had so little energy.

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#315 Re: Megoswad
August 08, 2020, 05:26:46 am

No doubt. I'd raise the bet to Ondra repeats Bibliographie before Megos does Silence!

Yeah, 100%. In fact I'd raise you and bet Megos will never do Silence.

I'm hoping for some controversy. Ondra climbs Bibliography and downgrades it to 9b/+. Megos goes to Norway in a huff, climbs Silence, and downgrades it to HVS

jwi

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#316 Re: Megoswad
August 09, 2020, 10:06:32 am
The conditions been pretty horrendous in Céüse in July, one or two evenings with dry heat and a bit wind when the conditions were good. For the last visit Mr. Megos showed up the first day with reasonable conditions in two weeks, fell at the very last bit. Then we left, so I do not know how the conditions were.

Céüse starts to be really polished. This summer I repeated some routes I did five years ago and they are definitely harder now (fact! because i do not age...). Some of the 7a-7bs in Demi-Lune are most surely harder than classic 7a-7bs on Escales in Verdon.

Several good climbers (hi Chris+) have said that even Biographie is polished, especially the start, and a lot harder now than ten years ago.

SA Chris

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#317 Re: Megoswad
August 09, 2020, 09:46:42 pm
Things like Medecine Douce and Ananada (easiest warmups in Cascade) were slippery in mid 90s, must be glassy now.

spidermonkey09

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#318 Re: Megoswad
August 10, 2020, 07:49:24 am
Things like Medecine Douce and Ananada (easiest warmups in Cascade) were slippery in mid 90s, must be glassy now.

Cascade was the worst offender in terms of polish when I was there a few years ago. That said, I didn't think any of it was too bad, there are so many good routes that for every polished one there are 5+ that are fine. Its not Raven Tor quite yet.

SA Chris

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#319 Re: Megoswad
August 10, 2020, 08:58:28 am
True enough, could be memory, one of the first limestone crag I visited. Since then I've climbed at many that are a lot worse!

 

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