UKBouldering.com

the shizzle => news => Topic started by: RichK on April 28, 2010, 01:51:08 pm

Title: Ondrawad
Post by: RichK on April 28, 2010, 01:51:08 pm
Word is he's there now.

Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Tris on April 28, 2010, 01:58:56 pm
Cool - looking forward to see his crushing tick list  ;D
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Jaspersharpe on April 28, 2010, 02:06:30 pm
Excellent.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Krank on April 28, 2010, 02:07:02 pm
no projects left by tea time then
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: nik at work on April 28, 2010, 02:14:54 pm
Excellent. Good luck to the lad, be interesting to see how he gets on with Steve's routes.

Giggleswick is just down the road isn't it? A true wads opinion on a Godskins horror would be tres interesting...
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: BenF on April 28, 2010, 02:16:54 pm
I think at this point a ukc style comment like "I hope he doesn't just spend his time clipping bolts, but goes to Stanage/tries Echo Wall/Birkett's routes" is in order...
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Serpico on April 28, 2010, 02:20:38 pm
I think at this point a ukc style comment like "I hope he doesn't just spend his time clipping bolts, but goes to Stanage/tries Echo Wall/Birkett's routes" is in order...

That's the thing about UKC; no matter how much you try to parody them, the parody always falls short of the reality.
From UKC I give you: "I reckon it would be more interesting to throw him at the Vice."

Yep, that'd put him in his place...
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: dave on April 28, 2010, 02:23:11 pm
Is this really news? Headline: "climber goes to crag" shocker.

Hopefully he can crush something worthy and make some genuine news.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: chris_j_s on April 28, 2010, 02:28:24 pm
From UKC I give you: "I reckon it would be more interesting to throw him at the Vice."

 :lol:  Yes, I saw that too. I really do hope it was a joke but you never can tell...
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Doylo on April 28, 2010, 02:39:20 pm
Its defo news. The worlds best climber comes to malham and tries our joint hardest route! Best thing i ve read for ages.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: nik at work on April 28, 2010, 02:46:08 pm
I agree. Either he does something which will be news, or he won't do something which will still be news.

Has someone pissed on your chips today Dave, you're being a right grouch?
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Jaspersharpe on April 28, 2010, 02:51:21 pm
He has an as yet undiagnosed damp problem but I don't know if it's to do with piss and / or chips.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Tris on April 28, 2010, 03:02:35 pm
Dave's Lunch..

(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_suyHSWtM46o/SdRdbZ2TU4I/AAAAAAAAAaY/uP01c7Ji21o/s320/piss-and-vinegar-chips.jpg)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: dave on April 28, 2010, 03:07:28 pm
Someone do us a favour and see if Ondra can recommend any damp people cos you fuckers are useless.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Adam Lincoln on April 28, 2010, 03:08:24 pm
Is this really news?

Yep. We have been after him coming over for ages. Now he has. News enough for me, and a lot of others i suspect.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: GraemeA on April 28, 2010, 03:19:03 pm
I wonder if he will downgrade the soft touch 8c's  ;)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Andy F on April 28, 2010, 03:21:55 pm
This is  :great: news,not just for the UK sport climbing scene, but also for the fact that Steve's routes will get some well deserved world wide press.

It'll be well interesting to see how the UK grades compare to abroad, in Ondra's opinions.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: r-man on April 28, 2010, 03:24:24 pm
Giggleswick is just down the road isn't it? A true wads opinion on a Godskins horror would be tres interesting...

http://maps.google.co.uk/maps?f=d&source=s_d&saddr=Giggleswick,+Settle&daddr=Malham+Cove&hl=en&geocode=Fb_2OAMdJffc_ynTpOtfiYd7SDE5TZ2lIJp6Dg%3BFXoSOQMdUhLf_yEY5v5_5wo0Rw&mra=ls&sll=54.072006,-2.158599&sspn=0.016872,0.038581&ie=UTF8&ll=54.081548,-2.228851&spn=0.069988,0.154324&z=13 (http://maps.google.co.uk/maps?f=d&source=s_d&saddr=Giggleswick,+Settle&daddr=Malham+Cove&hl=en&geocode=Fb_2OAMdJffc_ynTpOtfiYd7SDE5TZ2lIJp6Dg%3BFXoSOQMdUhLf_yEY5v5_5wo0Rw&mra=ls&sll=54.072006,-2.158599&sspn=0.016872,0.038581&ie=UTF8&ll=54.081548,-2.228851&spn=0.069988,0.154324&z=13)

Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Fiend on April 28, 2010, 03:31:02 pm
What's news is that Adam Lincoln hasn't namedropped him yet. Unless the "we've been after him coming over" is the royal "we" and indicitive of a personal invite  ;)

I agree with Nik, get him Violently Breeding...
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Adam Lincoln on April 28, 2010, 03:32:59 pm
What's news is that Adam Lincoln hasn't namedropped him yet.

I haven't had the pleasure of meeting him yet Fiend. Just him and Moffatt have eluded me.  ;)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Andy F on April 28, 2010, 03:34:26 pm
What's news is that Adam Lincoln hasn't namedropped him yet.

I haven't had the pleasure of meeting him yet Fiend. Just him and Moffatt have eluded me.  ;)

One wonders why... :-\ ;)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: chris_j_s on April 28, 2010, 03:34:50 pm
Giggleswick is just down the road isn't it? A true wads opinion on a Godskins horror would be tres interesting...

http://maps.google.co.uk/maps?f=d&source=s_d&saddr=Giggleswick,+Settle&daddr=Malham+Cove&hl=en&geocode=Fb_2OAMdJffc_ynTpOtfiYd7SDE5TZ2lIJp6Dg%3BFXoSOQMdUhLf_yEY5v5_5wo0Rw&mra=ls&sll=54.072006,-2.158599&sspn=0.016872,0.038581&ie=UTF8&ll=54.081548,-2.228851&spn=0.069988,0.154324&z=13 (http://maps.google.co.uk/maps?f=d&source=s_d&saddr=Giggleswick,+Settle&daddr=Malham+Cove&hl=en&geocode=Fb_2OAMdJffc_ynTpOtfiYd7SDE5TZ2lIJp6Dg%3BFXoSOQMdUhLf_yEY5v5_5wo0Rw&mra=ls&sll=54.072006,-2.158599&sspn=0.016872,0.038581&ie=UTF8&ll=54.081548,-2.228851&spn=0.069988,0.154324&z=13)

 :o  We've waited ages for this so don't send him to the wrong bit of Giggleswick!  ;)

http://maps.google.co.uk/maps?f=d&source=s_d&saddr=B6480&daddr=Malham+Cove&hl=en&geocode=FWlQOQMdLrnc_w%3BFXoSOQMdUhLf_yEY5v5_5wo0Rw&mra=ls&sll=54.067448,-2.264729&sspn=0.032034,0.069094&ie=UTF8&t=h&z=12 (http://maps.google.co.uk/maps?f=d&source=s_d&saddr=B6480&daddr=Malham+Cove&hl=en&geocode=FWlQOQMdLrnc_w%3BFXoSOQMdUhLf_yEY5v5_5wo0Rw&mra=ls&sll=54.067448,-2.264729&sspn=0.032034,0.069094&ie=UTF8&t=h&z=12)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: dave on April 28, 2010, 03:45:36 pm
What's news is that Adam Lincoln hasn't namedropped him yet.

I haven't had the pleasure of meeting him yet Fiend. Just him and Moffatt have eluded me.  ;)

One wonders why... :-\ ;)

Judging by the relative complextions of the two adams I'd say we could rule out them ever having been at the same crag, or indeed tanning salon, at the same time.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: jern on April 28, 2010, 03:54:19 pm
Its defo news. The worlds best climber comes to malham and tries our joint hardest route! Best thing i ve read for ages.

he could have just come to do Begozi and the Ledge Lizards, you know...
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Probes on April 28, 2010, 04:56:43 pm
I wait for a barrage of abuse but one thing that id be just as interested in is if someone pointed him in the direction of a long steep traverse just over the border, with instructions to try and not fall off first go!
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: GCW on April 28, 2010, 05:24:17 pm
That is a very good idea Probes   :agree:
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: SA Chris on April 28, 2010, 05:56:55 pm
has a webcam and hide been set up for BBC's Ondrawatch season?
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: r-man on April 28, 2010, 06:36:28 pm
Looks like UKC have set up a webcam (http://myfavoritedisease.files.wordpress.com/2009/06/ostrich-07761.jpg)! Ondra seems confused about something at the moment...
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: c3po on April 28, 2010, 08:13:39 pm
Can't believe we are all still writing on this thread and theres not even a confirmed send or route being projected yet!  We need facts (routes/grades/onsight/flash/redpoint).  Anyone got any? :shrug:
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Adam Lincoln on April 28, 2010, 08:19:26 pm
Can't believe we are all still writing on this thread and theres not even a confirmed send or route being projected yet!  We need facts (routes/grades/onsight/flash/redpoint).  Anyone got any? :shrug:

He has had a couple of redpoints on Overshadow, and failed to onsight Cry Freedom.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Adam Lincoln on April 28, 2010, 10:35:45 pm
Cry Freedom
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=143185 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=143185)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Carnage on April 29, 2010, 12:21:34 am


He has had a couple of redpoints on Overshadow, and failed to onsight Cry Freedom.
[/quote]

Yeah, he's not all that so don't expect much. He got smashed when he came over here....

http://www.onsight.com.au/news-blog/articles/26/adam-ondra-in-oz (http://www.onsight.com.au/news-blog/articles/26/adam-ondra-in-oz)

 ;)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: a dense loner on April 29, 2010, 07:41:46 am
Hi adam, jerry says ure a dick


not ondra
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Johnny Brown on April 29, 2010, 08:27:19 am
(http://www.onsight.com.au/news-blog/images/71.jpg)

Shit, and they say Ron has big hands.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: SA Chris on April 29, 2010, 09:33:04 am
Really looks like the Fat Handed Twat in that pic.

(http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/1998/vlcsnap13072866copywu4.jpg)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Tim Broughtonshaw on April 29, 2010, 09:45:03 am
(http://www.onsight.com.au/news-blog/images/71.jpg)

Shit, and they say Ron has big hands.

 :o   Christ! that must be a photoshopped pic or something!  if his hands really are that big, and he is quite tall and thin as a rake then its not suprising he is crushing everything he touches.

cheers
Tim
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: SA Chris on April 29, 2010, 09:47:11 am
Look at any other pics - hands are normal sized, some lens or PS based trickery.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: dave on April 29, 2010, 09:57:37 am
0:32

YouTube - Broadcast Yourself. (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=25N-4zrk390#)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Tim Broughtonshaw on April 29, 2010, 10:23:35 am
0:32

YouTube - Broadcast Yourself. (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=25N-4zrk390#)

ok before i even watch that clip im gonna bet its the sheep and pigs sketch... :)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Kim on April 29, 2010, 10:26:07 am
 :lol:
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Tim Broughtonshaw on April 29, 2010, 10:30:44 am
0:32

YouTube - Broadcast Yourself. (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=25N-4zrk390#)

ok before i even watch that clip im gonna bet its the sheep and pigs sketch... :)

yep it was.. classic.  I love the peter kay one as well,

gang of midgets get out of a minibus in the phoenix nights carpark. bouncer says to the other one. 

"How far away are they?"   :)

Cheers
Tim
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: slackline on April 29, 2010, 10:36:27 am
0:32

YouTube - Broadcast Yourself. (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=25N-4zrk390#)

ok before i even watch that clip im gonna bet its the sheep and pigs sketch... :)

yep it was.. classic.  I love the peter kay one as well,


 :shrug: Don't know what video you watched, but it looked like cows to me  :)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Tim Broughtonshaw on April 29, 2010, 10:47:19 am
aye cows i meant.  :)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Serpico on April 29, 2010, 10:56:32 am
aye cows i meant.  :)

It's all just livestock to you isn't it?
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Andy Harris on April 29, 2010, 11:30:47 am
I am staggered by the lack of fact around this visit. As Doyle said, finally a truly world class climber comes to the UK. There's rafts of old scool grades and McClure 9a's that people suspect are harder and we've had about as much fact as one of the televised political debates. Was he redpointing Overshadow on his 1st day or had he been working it for days previous, how close was he to a cryfreedom onsight (I thought it was 8a+ or so to the last move or 2 so did he only onsight 8a+ worth of climbing. Is he off to Kilnsey, PenTrywn or the Tor?

Come on boys (& girls), pull your fingers out and get us somw fact.

I've been waiting for about 15 years since messers Tribout, Chevieux & Lombard came over and ticked some 8b+/8c's, before that Jibe & Raboutou were the last wads to tick big Nos (didn't Jibe do Cry Freedom in 2 days & downgrade it to 8b+, Ondra's already had a day on it so can't surpass Jibe.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Jaspersharpe on April 29, 2010, 11:37:52 am
Well said Andy. GIVE US FACTS!
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: dave on April 29, 2010, 11:38:12 am
I said this wasn't news yet. We have some importance, but no fact. Do the maths.

(http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/7/77/Fact_x_importance_equals_ne.jpg)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: benpritch on April 29, 2010, 11:51:02 am
i saw him try and red point overshadow. came to a halt at the first boulder problem. he worked it for a bit - couldn't do it. pulled past it. climbed a wee bit higher then came down.

his onsight attempt on cry freedom came to a halt halfway up the groovy thing above the lower wall (not familiar wit hthe route so no more details, sorry.)

hten he sat around for a bit and then he went home.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: r-man on April 29, 2010, 12:03:37 pm
Is he off to Kilnsey, PenTrywn or the Tor?

Nevermind those. Get the world's best on the world's hardest move.

GIGGLESWICK

VIOLENT NEW BREED


GIGGLESWICK


VOLENT NEW BREED
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: SA Chris on April 29, 2010, 12:07:41 pm

then he sat around for a bit and then he went home.

You mean he left for the day, or buggered off back to Czech land?
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: suggy on April 29, 2010, 12:27:10 pm
I was up at malham yesterday.. to warm up he onsighted zoolook (made it look piss - but he should). Then he onsighted overnight sensation before working the extension. I tried to get him to go to Baildon Bank - he sounded suitably inspired and said he'd try to fit it in!
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Andy Harris on April 29, 2010, 12:45:17 pm
Thank the lord for Ben P, purveyor of facts. Certainly doesn't sound like a crusathon (yet), but we await with baited breath.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Johnny Brown on April 29, 2010, 01:42:26 pm
But how TENACIOUS is he? Is Sharples there to assess?
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: fatboySlimfast on April 29, 2010, 01:46:01 pm
But how TENACIOUS is he? Is Sharples there to assess?
as in tenacious being an ascent practised over a minor geological age?
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Andy F on April 29, 2010, 01:53:25 pm
So all we know at the minute is on his first (?) day he flashed an 8a (not surprised), failed to flash and 8b+ (bit of a suprise) and worked the hardest route at the crag (not suprised). Oh, and he's apparently made of rubber. Like Stretch Armstrong.  Good to know he's on form then  ::)

The big question is how many pints did he sink in the Listers last night?
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: SA Chris on April 29, 2010, 02:00:13 pm
Is he old enough yet? Actually given that part of the world it would be unlikely to be an issue.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: psychomansam on April 29, 2010, 03:23:44 pm
Well he ain't old enough over here, but to look at the lad, he's either the next step of evolution or he's never touched a pint in his life.

With a bit of luck he'll turn 18, get fat and we can all stop worrying about how shit we are

 :beer2:
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: chappers on April 29, 2010, 03:43:08 pm
im sure the last post is a reeeeeeeeeeeeeepost. ive got bored of hearing about "if only he drank booze" etc...
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: clm on April 29, 2010, 04:55:24 pm
if you're going to do massive writing, don't bugger up the spelling.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: chummer on April 29, 2010, 05:12:30 pm
If only he knew what a blow job was..
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Fiend on April 29, 2010, 05:12:57 pm
(http://static.guim.co.uk/sys-images/Guardian/Pix/pictures/2008/07/22/watervole.jpg)
Violent New Vole, deep water voloing.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Paul B on April 29, 2010, 05:54:42 pm
people are giving 5 stars to some rather average snaps of Ondra... Is celebrity culture really this big in climbing?
If so I'm going to pitch Hello Magazine vertical edition to the insect overlords...
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Stubbs on April 29, 2010, 06:17:44 pm
... Is celebrity culture really this big in climbing?


I only follow you on twitter because someone told me you climbed 8B
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Paul B on April 29, 2010, 06:25:24 pm
I only follow you on twitter because someone told me you climbed 8B

and to bait me.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Teaboy on April 29, 2010, 07:24:39 pm
Apparently he on-sighted Predator, the Oak and Magnetic and had 3 RPs on Overshadow. I didn't witness any of this but I thought I'd post it in case anyone else is as obsessed with celebrity climbing culture as me. I was also told about an impressive redpoint of Space Invaders by another up and coming young star but details on this are a bit hazy at the moment.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Serpico on April 29, 2010, 07:27:34 pm
Onsighting predator is very impressive - it's massively technical and tenuous on the feet, it's a soft redpoint but a very impressive onsight.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Serpico on April 29, 2010, 07:29:52 pm
people are giving 5 stars to some rather average snaps of Ondra... Is celebrity culture really this big in climbing?

I predict it'll be a circus this weekend at Malham, I won't be going to find out.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Stubbs on April 29, 2010, 07:32:23 pm
Do you not like clowns, or is it the cruelty to animals that puts you off?
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Serpico on April 29, 2010, 07:38:33 pm
it's circus folk - they have little tiny hands.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: r-man on April 29, 2010, 07:39:31 pm
people are giving 5 stars to some rather average snaps of Ondra... Is celebrity culture really this big in climbing?

I predict it'll be a circus this weekend at Malham, I won't be going to find out.

Maybe you could help Ondra escape the crowds. Offer him a lift to Giggleswick...
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Serpico on April 29, 2010, 07:45:28 pm
Quote
Maybe you could help Ondra escape the crowds. Offer him a lift to Giggleswick...

What? and end up being chased in my knackered Berlingo by the paparazzi?
I don't want to end up like Princess Di.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: robertostallioni on April 29, 2010, 07:46:33 pm
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f186/TGTE/LifeofBrian.jpg)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Paul B on April 29, 2010, 07:47:45 pm
Quote
Maybe you could help Ondra escape the crowds. Offer him a lift to Giggleswick...

What? and end up being chased in my knackered Berlingo by the paparazzi?
I don't want to end up like Princess Di.

ah yeah but Nick Clegg tampered with her brakes so you'll be fine.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: griffer on April 29, 2010, 08:16:29 pm
2 more attempts on rainshadow
2 8b onsights
3 8a+  on sight
I only saw the 8a+ and the 8b on sights, so cant confirm the others and he 8a+ onsight I think he will discount as when shoued at to grab the chain he jmped off.
I think he onsighted another 8a today but im not sure, did he do zoolook yesterday? he though that was hard and probably 8a+, thats a quote from someone else.
Very very very very veryveryveryveryveryveryveryveryveryveryveryveryveryveryveryveryveryveryveryveryveryvery awesome to watch
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: chris_j_s on April 29, 2010, 08:23:47 pm
I predict it'll be a circus this weekend at Malham, I won't be going to find out.

people are giving 5 stars to some rather average snaps of Ondra... Is celebrity culture really this big in climbing?
If so I'm going to pitch Hello Magazine vertical edition to the insect overlords...

Some of you lot are such grumpy bastards! Any particular reason to be so cynical?  :shrug:
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Paul B on April 29, 2010, 08:35:36 pm
'5' Star Photo (http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=143185)
5 Star Photo (http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=81663)

I'd say its justified. I don't think Serpico is being cynical at all, more realistic. With it being a bank holiday weekend Malham Catwalk ain't going to be a quiet place to be.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: robertostallioni on April 29, 2010, 08:42:37 pm
Nice photo of him passing the first bolt, that.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: chris_j_s on April 29, 2010, 08:59:40 pm
I'm well aware of the photos you're talking about and its only a personal view but I think you're wrong.

Al Lee's pictures are stunning but they're painstakingly set up beforehand with prior knowledge of where steve was going to be and what he was going to be climbing so they really should be good, whereas my understanding of these are that they were opportunistic captures of something that a lot of peoplke would clearly be interested in.

No sarcasm intended, but I'm sure you are familiar with the concept that an image can have more value than the sum of its parts simply for capturing a particular moment of interest to a lot of people. This makes it worth more than say, a similar picture of me flailing around on some 7a at Malham.

Serpico is perfectly entitled to his views and no-ones forcing him to go to Malham this weekend. I just thought his comments were a little unnecessary. Doesn't really matter of course.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Teaboy on April 29, 2010, 09:19:31 pm
 No one's forcing Serpico  to Malham this weekend but I suspect Kilnsey will be wet and not sure he knows other crags exist  :whistle:

For what it's worth I think these photos could be worth a 5 simply because they're pretty good on their own merit with added marks for the subject. It's easy to get another perfect shot of hand just latching the top of Deliverence whilst chalk dust hangs in the air but I think uniqeness should be rewarded and so far these are the only photos I've seen of the worlds best climber climbing at my favorite crag   
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: chillax on April 29, 2010, 09:21:46 pm
an image can have more value than the sum of its parts simply for capturing a particular moment of interest to a lot of people.

A crap photo can indeed have deep personal and cultural significance. Its still a crap photo though.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: chris_j_s on April 29, 2010, 09:27:15 pm
A crap photo can indeed have deep personal and cultural significance. Its still a crap photo though.

Not what I said but well done!  ;)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Paul B on April 29, 2010, 09:35:42 pm
and we're b
No sarcasm intended, but I'm sure you are familiar with the concept that an image can have more value than the sum of its parts simply for capturing a particular moment of interest to a lot of people. This makes it worth more than say, a similar picture of me flailing around on some 7a at Malham.

Back to the celebrity culture thing, all you've got to 'add value' is Ondra climbing something that on the grand scheme of things isn't that impressive... My mate happened to record Malc doing the first ascent of Monk life by shear luck, he missed the 1st move and its far from top-drawer footage but he captured a moment, this isn't that.

I've got half a pasty that John Dunne may or may not have munched on, shall we start the bidding at £50,000?

(alternatively I can supply a lock of Jaspersharpes hair for a similar price - he doesn't yet know it)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Teaboy on April 29, 2010, 09:38:56 pm
As if Dunny would leave half a pasty uneaten
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Fiend on April 29, 2010, 09:42:46 pm
Beat me to it!!
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Serpico on April 29, 2010, 10:09:04 pm
No one's forcing Serpico  to Malham this weekend but I suspect Kilnsey will be wet and not sure he knows other crags exist  :whistle:

Malham and Kilnsey are only training for the real thing: Longridge.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: RichK on April 29, 2010, 10:12:08 pm
Apparently he on-sighted Predator, the Oak and Magnetic and had 3 RPs on Overshadow.

Details.......

3 x RP's on Overshadow ...... his thoughts, defo 9a+. Thinks he's using a differnt sequence on crux to Steve.

Predator, 8b O/S - However, he thought the end of the route was the 1st belay(its 20ft higher). 
                            He looked very comfortable & I doubt he'd have fallen off the last bit.                                                                               
                            Gutted to hear he had a further 20ft. Putting clips in.
Oak, 8b O/S         - putting clips in.

Magnetic,8b O/S   - putting clips in

Groove>Free and Easy>Breach of the Peace 8b O/S - putting clips in.

Energy Vampire 8a+ O/S - putting clips in. Looked puzzled at last move for a while.......and fell off. Isn't it like RD's in           
that you grab a draw on the ring peg to finish???

Rest day tomoz, if Overshadow stays dry he'll do it sat I reckon.

He's here till Tuesday.

Notably, he did Magnetic, had 5 mins rest, then the Oak :o

Got some footage which I'll bob on here when I work out how :-\ :whistle:
   
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Adam Lincoln on April 29, 2010, 10:47:42 pm
Apparently he on-sighted Predator, the Oak and Magnetic and had 3 RPs on Overshadow.

Isn't it like RD's in that you grab a draw on the ring peg to finish???

No, you need to clip it, like you do on Connect 4. (Same finish)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: r-man on April 29, 2010, 11:21:33 pm


Rest day tomoz, if Overshadow stays dry he'll do it sat I reckon.

He's here till Tuesday.


Perfect, someone pass me Ondra's diary...

Fri - Rest
Sat - Do Overshadow
Sun - Rest
Mon - Violent New Breed
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: duncan on April 30, 2010, 09:11:34 am
Pictures of Ondra on Overshadow and Cry Freedom on Keith Sharples' blog (http://blog.keithsharplesphotography.co.uk/blog/_archives/2010/4/30/4517300.html)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Jaspersharpe on April 30, 2010, 09:14:56 am
I agree with PaulB (although he's not getting anywhere near me with a pair of scissors).

Good to hear confirmation of Steve's grades, not as if they were in doubt like but still.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: SA Chris on April 30, 2010, 09:50:16 am
it's circus folk - they have little tiny hands.

Nothing to fear here then

(http://www.onsight.com.au/news-blog/images/71.jpg)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Probes on April 30, 2010, 10:13:56 am
No one's forcing Serpico  to Malham this weekend but I suspect Kilnsey will be wet and not sure he knows other crags exist  :whistle:

Malham and Kilnsey are only training for the real thing: Longridge.

With the destruction thats going on at Malham, Im not sure I fancy seeing him do the same to Longy anymore.  :boohoo:
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Doylo on April 30, 2010, 10:16:32 am
What a beast! Seems like he s taken to malham like a duck to water. I hope he comes to the ormes sometime.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Jaspersharpe on April 30, 2010, 10:37:04 am
You would have thought he'd want to get on LA and Big Bang and I've heard there's a decent 8c+ish project there up for grabs...............
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Adam Lincoln on April 30, 2010, 10:39:58 am
I've heard there's a decent 8c+ish project there up for grabs...............

  :lol:
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Doylo on April 30, 2010, 10:59:27 am
He d have a cracking time down there. He can have that proj. All i d ask for is a signed picture for my wall.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: SA Chris on April 30, 2010, 11:31:33 am
Any signed pic? I have a Su Pollard one you can have.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Tris on April 30, 2010, 11:34:47 am
Details.......
Cheers Rich - major crushage as expected  ;D
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: youngy on April 30, 2010, 11:35:11 am
All i d ask for is a signed picture for my wall.
Wouldn't you put it on the ceiling so when you wake up you see ur hero :great:
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: butterworthtom on April 30, 2010, 02:03:44 pm
I know everyone is having some kind of visiting-wad-so-let's-shout-all-the-hard-routes-he-should-do-gasm.
But what about the Brandenburg (sp?) gate project at the tor?
I know nothing about the route or if it would suit Adam, but surely visiting uber wad's should be directed at this infamous project.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: dobbin on April 30, 2010, 03:05:00 pm
But what about the Brandenburg (sp?) gate project at the tor?

Now I love the tor, but this is really log. One of the reasons it hasnt been done is the sharp snappy holds, and the lack of asthetic loveliness.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Andy Harris on April 30, 2010, 03:17:06 pm
Yorkshire in Ondra upgrade shocker :whistle:

What does big Ron think to an upgrade of Zoolock 25 years+ after the 1st ascent. Has it got harder since the 1st ascent / thought it was considered the benchmark Yorkshire 8a? Could this be a classic example of grade inflation over the years.

I can see him twiddling his tash (no that's not a euphemism) and tutting in disgust :thumbsdown:
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Paul B on April 30, 2010, 03:22:08 pm
Yorkshire in Ondra upgrade shocker :whistle:

What does big Ron think to an upgrade of Zoolock 25 years+ after the 1st ascent. Has it got harder since the 1st ascent / thought it was considered the benchmark Yorkshire 8a? Could this be a classic example of grade inflation over the years.

I can see him twiddling his tash (no that's not a euphemism) and tutting in disgust :thumbsdown:

maybe next time I bang the 'soft' drum people won't burn me at the stake. There is a definite difference between the Old School venues and the Nu Skool venues. Next I'm going to get Doyle and Sausage on here claiming Margalef is hard because they didn't prepare for a sport climbing trip and got spanked...  :yawn:
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Adam Lincoln on April 30, 2010, 03:54:15 pm
Quote
Next I'm going to get Doyle and Sausage on here claiming Margalef is hard because they didn't prepare for a sport climbing trip and got spanked...  :yawn:

The only reason we got spanked was the sharpness of the pockets. We would all have done are respective projects had it not been for the worst state of my skin i have ever experienced. (Well, that's a lie. The main objective of the trip was thrown out the window when a fatty broke a crucial jug off the start)

Oh and as far as Margalef being soft is concerned, that's utter tosh. I would say Labratory sector is as in line with grades as most places. Maybe not quite as old skool as Buoux but they are NOT soft.

Sorry Paul, you hit a nerve with that comment. By the way, what was your excuse for not doing anything when you were there?  ;)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Paul B on April 30, 2010, 03:57:30 pm
not saying what I did and doing nothing are a little different wouldn't you say?
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Adam Lincoln on April 30, 2010, 04:00:52 pm
not saying what I did and doing nothing are a little different wouldn't you say?

Yes Paul.  ::) You keep beating that drum. We will have to agree to disagree then.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Paul B on April 30, 2010, 04:04:10 pm
more to the point did you try/crush/enjoy any of the rec's away from Laboratori?
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: andy popp on April 30, 2010, 04:04:29 pm
Yorkshire in Ondra upgrade shocker :whistle:

What does big Ron think to an upgrade of Zoolock 25 years+ after the 1st ascent. Has it got harder since the 1st ascent / thought it was considered the benchmark Yorkshire 8a? Could this be a classic example of grade inflation over the years.

I can see him twiddling his tash (no that's not a euphemism) and tutting in disgust :thumbsdown:

I remember seeing a quote from Garth Miller - no slouch - that Zoolook was a joke at 8a.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Stu Littlefair on April 30, 2010, 04:06:34 pm
Oh and as far as Margalef being soft is concerned, that's utter tosh. I would say Labratory sector is as in line with grades as most places. Maybe not quite as old skool as Buoux but they are NOT soft.

Like all venues that were very soft, a lot of the easiest routes have now been adjusted in line with some sort of standard. It's funny; I remember you banging on about how soft Tarn was, but I thought the grades there were consistently a grade tougher than margalef. And unlike Paul, I ticked everything there. Which just goes to show how futile arguing about grades is.

On the other hand; British grades are nails. I was at the crag that day with Garth; he swore blind Zoolook would be 8b in Spain. So I'm gobsmacked by Ondra. Although these probably aren't close to the most impressive days climbing he's had, somehow when it's stuff you know it's so much more astounding. Since he's got practically no 8b's left, someone point him at Unjustified; it's the most onsightable of the 'hard' routes.

Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Adam Lincoln on April 30, 2010, 04:07:51 pm
more to the point did you try/crush/enjoy any of the rec's away from Laboratori?

Yes. With a little more success. Even more success over in Suriana. Though the trip did get me fit and strong, which was half the objective anyway.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Adam Lincoln on April 30, 2010, 04:10:12 pm
Oh and as far as Margalef being soft is concerned, that's utter tosh. I would say Labratory sector is as in line with grades as most places. Maybe not quite as old skool as Buoux but they are NOT soft.
It's funny; I remember you banging on about how soft Tarn was

I have only climbed two routes in Tarn, so i suspect that wasn't me.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: shark on April 30, 2010, 04:10:58 pm
Yorkshire in Ondra upgrade shocker :whistle:
What does big Ron think to an upgrade of Zoolock 25 years+ after the 1st ascent. Has it got harder since the 1st ascent / thought it was considered the benchmark Yorkshire 8a? Could this be a classic example of grade inflation over the years.
I can see him twiddling his tash (no that's not a euphemism) and tutting in disgust :thumbsdown:

I don't think French grade was applied at the time but do remember it appearing in the mags at E7 6d !

I think Zoolook suited the style of the times as a number of mainly trad climbers were able to do it, as their only 8a. 

As climbers are generally stronger now a technical stamina routes like Zoolook feels harder by comparison with the likes of Raindogs.

Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Paul B on April 30, 2010, 04:15:13 pm
and unlike Paul, I ticked everything there. Which just goes to show how futile arguing about grades is.

I've managed to get rid of the training mindset, the grade thing is a little harder to expel but you're right.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Stu Littlefair on April 30, 2010, 04:15:41 pm
I have only climbed two routes in Tarn, so i suspect that wasn't me.

It's a different Adam Lincoln who wrote this on 8a.nu then?

Quote
Soft First r/p. Very very soft. Prob 7c+ (8a in day)

Sorry to be a :wank:, end of the week and I'm feeling a bit prickly! No harm done I hope...
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Adam Lincoln on April 30, 2010, 04:17:51 pm
I have only climbed two routes in Tarn, so i suspect that wasn't me.

It's a different Adam Lincoln who wrote this on 8a.nu then?

Quote
Soft First r/p. Very very soft. Prob 7c+ (8a in day)

Sorry to be a :wank:, end of the week and I'm feeling a bit prickly! No harm done I hope...

Too be fair, it is NEVER 8a, even in Thailand  ;)
Going off one route your comment was a tad sweeping.
Don't worry Stu, no offence taken. When you going to haul yourself to Kilnsey?
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Stu Littlefair on April 30, 2010, 04:19:14 pm
tomorrow...
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: butterworthtom on April 30, 2010, 04:31:04 pm

Quote
Now I love the tor, but this is really log. One of the reasons it hasnt been done is the sharp snappy holds, and the lack of aesthetic loveliness.

Explains why John Gaskins was trying it then  :whistle:
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: T_B on April 30, 2010, 05:02:44 pm

I think Zoolook suited the style of the times as a number of mainly trad climbers were able to do it, as their only 8a. 

As climbers are generally stronger now a technical stamina routes like Zoolook feels harder by comparison with the likes of Raindogs.

Agreed. At the risk of sounding like JB, I found Zoolook pretty easy. Did it 1st RP 4 weeks after standing on the summit of Denali. Failed on Subculture the following day (i.e. considered soft, but requires power).
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: abarro81 on April 30, 2010, 05:14:09 pm
 :lol: FIGHT FIGHT FIGHT
 :off: I think the thing with Tarn is that it's got a rep partly for 2 routes - planete groove and arnaque. With 'groove' a frenchy told me this was originally done by a long move through the buldge rather than the obvious method moving right then back left here; hence the original 8a grade and why everyone now thinks 7c/+. Arnaque just needs a downgrade to 7c+. There's a few others that have now been downgraded in everything but the guide (i.e. if you look on 8a.nu or speak to someone you'll see they're not considered the guidebook grade anymore), e.g. the keep on movin' extension which is 8b in the guide but is supposed to be soft 8a+. On the whole I thought the grades were comparable to Ceuse, where I'd been just before tarn...
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: T_B on April 30, 2010, 05:18:59 pm
There's that other '8a' left of Rasta vaut rien. Does seem like a popular first 8a on-sight :whistle:

(Arnaque.com is comparable to Why Me at Two Tier I thought)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: shark on April 30, 2010, 05:22:56 pm
I found Zoolook pretty easy. Did it 1st RP 4 weeks after standing on the summit of Denial.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Doylo on April 30, 2010, 05:24:45 pm
Paul i can handle doing nothing on a two week trip. If it had been 6 months i may have been a little more sacked. Although very different oyster on the orme is the biggest sandbag in britain never mind zoolook! f7c+,its more like font 7c halfway up the crag.ridic!
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Paul B on April 30, 2010, 05:28:59 pm
Paul i can handle doing nothing on a two week trip. If it had been 6 months i may have been a little more sacked. Although very different oyster on the orme is the biggest sandbag in britain never mind zoolook! f7c+,its more like font 7c halfway up the crag.ridic!

f*cking hell, I love it, say a place is soft get told you did nothing in 6 months. Enjoyed your holiday then  ;D
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Serpico on April 30, 2010, 05:43:10 pm

I think Zoolook suited the style of the times as a number of mainly trad climbers were able to do it, as their only 8a. 

As climbers are generally stronger now a technical stamina routes like Zoolook feels harder by comparison with the likes of Raindogs.

Agreed. At the risk of sounding like JB, I found Zoolook pretty easy. Did it 1st RP 4 weeks after standing on the summit of Denali. Failed on Subculture the following day (i.e. considered soft, but requires power).

I think Zoolook is a steady 8a redpoint, but as an onsight I'm not surprised he thought it 8a+.
Cue argument about whether routes should be graded for the OS or the RP...
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Nemo on April 30, 2010, 07:26:09 pm
So: so far he's onsighted: Zoolook, Overnite, Magnetic, The Oak and The Groove / Free n Easy / Breach link.  And would probably have onsighted Predator and Energy Vampire if the finishes were better defined either by chains or guide descriptions.

Just out of curiousity, does anyone know if ANY of those routes (other than The Groove and Free n Slimy obviously) had previously had onsights?

As for the Zoolook thing, it is undoubtedly the case that that style of climbing was more in vogue in the 80s so folks found that kind of thing easier.  However its also definitely the case that even by the end of the 90s it was MUCH harder than when first done.  Simply due to polish on the footholds - all those glassy smears used to be rough and have lots of friction...

Anyway, yesterdays achievements get my vote for the most gobsmacking days climbing (in any style) in the UK ever...  Hope everything stays dry for the next week and he enjoys himself despite the inevitable circus wherever he goes.


Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: robertostallioni on April 30, 2010, 09:40:01 pm
So: so far he's onsighted: Zoolook, Overnite, Magnetic, The Oak and The Groove / Free n Easy / Breach link.  And would probably have onsighted Predator and Energy Vampire if the finishes were better defined either by chains or guide descriptions.

Just out of curiousity, does anyone know if ANY of those routes (other than The Groove and Free n Slimy obviously) had previously had onsights?


I believe Steve onsighted the Oak, but that may just be

(http://news.bbc.co.uk/media/images/38287000/jpg/_38287609_hearsay8.jpg)

Quote
I think Zoolook is a steady 8a redpoint, but as an onsight I'm not surprised he thought it 8a+.

completely agree.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: north_country_boy on May 01, 2010, 01:22:27 am
Retroflash I believe. He'd been on it a few years previous....
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: robertostallioni on May 01, 2010, 07:39:06 am
Anybody know how to get a Tat removed?
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Tommy on May 01, 2010, 09:27:05 am
Ok you can all breathe a sigh of relief, Ondra has done the deed and ticked it.

http://www.up-climbing.com/en/news/rock/ondra-sent-overshadow-9a- (http://www.up-climbing.com/en/news/rock/ondra-sent-overshadow-9a-)

Or..... is this the new best climbing website in the world where the future is predicted??!!  ;D Classic.

Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: r-man on May 01, 2010, 09:47:44 am
Oh dear. I saw 8a.nu published an extract from Keith's blog yesterday. It reads:

Quote
He wasted no time adding to his score-card (check it out here www.8a.nu (http://www.8a.nu)) with on-sights of Zoolook (F8a) and Overnite Sensation (F8a+). Next up was Overshadow (F9a+), Steve McClure’s 2007 mega route.

8a.nu presented it poorly, and I imagine up-climbing were one of many who didn't bother to read the rest of the blog. Oh dear.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: The Sausage on May 01, 2010, 02:41:59 pm
So, when's he getting on the vice? I've been waiting up there all week...
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Jaspersharpe on May 01, 2010, 03:00:21 pm
Awesome thread re Ondra and re grades. Paul is right of course, the grades 8b/8b+/8c/8c+ were established or consolidated in Provence and the UK. There is absolutely no reason for other areas to use a "Nu Skool" (or "soft") system. It's just caused confusion, argument and lots of people to think they climb harder than they actually do. When people say the grades in the UK and at Buoux are nails they're mistaking nails for correct. These routes were the benchmark, everything else is wrong.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Paul B on May 01, 2010, 06:58:13 pm
Ironically Ondra turned up at Kilnsey today...

He was asked directly about Overshadow and said he hadn't done it and didn't think he'd get it in this trip, am I missing something here? Ru?
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Falling Down on May 01, 2010, 07:14:07 pm
No you're not. Like 8a.spew, The (fuck)up climbing news article was only linked to Keith's blog entry from Thursday - Tommy was being funny  :)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: dave on May 01, 2010, 09:20:22 pm
So he onsighted OVershadow? AWESOME FUCKING WELLES. OMG STFU !!!!!!!!!111111111111111!!!!!!!!!!!
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: jonny2vests on May 02, 2010, 10:31:33 am
I think at this point a ukc style comment like "I hope he doesn't just spend his time clipping bolts, but goes to Stanage/tries Echo Wall/Birkett's routes" is in order...

That's the thing about UKC; no matter how much you try to parody them, the parody always falls short of the reality.
From UKC I give you: "I reckon it would be more interesting to throw him at the Vice."

Yep, that'd put him in his place...

Yeah, of course I was deadly serious when I wrote that. 
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Ru on May 02, 2010, 11:22:23 am
Yeah, of course I was deadly serious when I wrote that.

One of the problems with UKC is that a) people post uninformed drivel on there all the time, b) people parody the uninformed drivel in exactly the same, terminally unfunny way, all the time. Telling the two apart is hard.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: jonny2vests on May 02, 2010, 11:52:30 am
Apologies for being terminally unfunny.  How might one rectify the situation so I can up my game to your standards?  Or am I a lost cause, uncool and irrelevant, like a fish with tits.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Falling Down on May 02, 2010, 11:58:50 am
Content, delivery and timing....
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Danger on May 02, 2010, 11:59:49 am
uncool and irrelevant, like a fish with tits.

I don't know, I reckon a fish with tits would be pretty cool.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: dave on May 02, 2010, 01:14:44 pm
mermaids are hot.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: GraemeA on May 02, 2010, 01:30:46 pm
(http://jasondylan.files.wordpress.com/2009/07/darryl-hannah-as-mermaid1.jpg)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: jonny2vests on May 02, 2010, 01:47:45 pm
mermaids are hot.

Yeah, till you try boffing one.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: jonny2vests on May 02, 2010, 01:56:59 pm
Content, delivery and timing....

Apologies.  I shall analyse your blog for tips on how to stick my head up my arse.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Falling Down on May 02, 2010, 02:05:36 pm
Your welcome  :)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: SA Chris on May 02, 2010, 02:19:05 pm
mermaids are so hot right now.

Especially deep fried with chips.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: DaveC on May 02, 2010, 02:54:00 pm
From an ageing Czech wonderkind (at what age do you stop being one of those?) ticking hard routes at Malham to the problems of shagging a fish with tits in about a dozen posts, this thread is a masterpiece people! :great:  ::)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: tomtom on May 02, 2010, 05:00:41 pm
Content, delivery and timing....

Apologies.  I shall analyse your blog for tips on how to stick my head up my arse.

Doesnt sound like any tips are required  :-*
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Tris on May 02, 2010, 06:15:42 pm
Ironically Ondra turned up at Kilnsey today...
What did he tick? Progress/Northern Lights?  ;)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Fiend on May 02, 2010, 06:57:42 pm
I vote for the fish with tits too.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Ru on May 02, 2010, 07:07:16 pm
What did he tick? Progress/Northern Lights?  ;)

He went on North Star yesterday, got quite close, not sure if he went back on it today.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Serpico on May 02, 2010, 07:07:46 pm
Ironically Ondra turned up at Kilnsey today...
What did he tick? Progress/Northern Lights?  ;)

He did Northern Star today and reckoned it was 9a and probably helped to be tall on it, and as I left he was falling off Northern Lights on redpoint.
But the BIG news is R-Man got his wish, sort of, on his rest day Ondra went to look at Violent New Breed.
We can only wonder as to why it didn't then make it on to his wish list...
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: griffer on May 02, 2010, 07:22:42 pm
his attempts on Northern lighs were very impressive!

having sent northern star first redpoint, he then decided on "northern Ligts", when was the last time a climber had been on this and cleaned the route? 2-3 years?

spent an hour and a half working it, but very unsure on the line, came up with a sequence.

had a redpoint, but it didnt go well no sure on the line or sequence and no one at the crag could help.

then had 2 redpoint attempts, getting to the crux and trying, hard!

all this in 7 degres and a strong wind, for some of us mortals it was too cold to climb hard.....................................................
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Tim Broughtonshaw on May 02, 2010, 07:48:47 pm
Ironically Ondra turned up at Kilnsey today...
What did he tick? Progress/Northern Lights?  ;)

He did Northern Star today and reckoned it was 9a and probably helped to be tall on it, and as I left he was falling off Northern Lights on redpoint.
But the BIG news is R-Man got his wish, sort of, on his rest day Ondra went to look at Violent New Breed.
We can only wonder as to why it didn't then make it on to his wish list...

Serpico? don't remember seeing this shadowy mythical internet poster at Kilnsey today...


OndraWad definately didn't do Overshadow on saturday just to clarify. but crushed northern star impressively, hadnt done northernlights when i left.

Cheers
Tim
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Serpico on May 02, 2010, 07:56:32 pm
Quote
Serpico? don't remember seeing this shadowy mythical internet poster at Kilnsey today...

Nobody ever sees me, but I'm always there.
And I know what you did last summer...
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Tim Broughtonshaw on May 02, 2010, 07:58:36 pm
p.s. Serpico, just started the essential tralalallalalalla thread :)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Johnny Brown on May 02, 2010, 10:28:11 pm
Who the fuck's advising this guy? The g-spot is bad enough, but... jesus (http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=406250). Red dot traverse anyone?
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: GCW on May 02, 2010, 10:33:23 pm
Neil Conway was a visionary.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Ru on May 02, 2010, 11:28:30 pm
If that was the Hutton Roof thread I think it was a 'joke'.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: jonny2vests on May 03, 2010, 12:31:59 am
Content, delivery and timing....

Apologies.  I shall analyse your blog for tips on how to stick my head up my arse.

Doesnt sound like any tips are required  :-*

And I thought UKC was bitchy. ;)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: ian dunn on May 03, 2010, 07:23:02 am
Neil Conway was a visionary.

Neil Conway who! I think you mean Nick Conway no visionary just a beast with eyes for a good line.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: GCW on May 03, 2010, 07:31:28 am
Ooops.  Yes, hence Nick's Traverse   :-[

Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: RichK on May 03, 2010, 09:13:50 am
.
But the BIG news is R-Man got his wish, sort of, on his rest day Ondra went to look at Violent New Breed.
We can only wonder as to why it didn't then make it on to his wish list...

Mmm :-\ VNB world class or a pile of  :wank:
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Ackbar on May 03, 2010, 11:08:37 am
I noticed that there hasn't been any other news in the last 5 days other than Ondra.  Does this mean that everyone is sat under Malham/Kilnsey crag watching?
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Krank on May 03, 2010, 11:25:41 am
VNB might not be world class but is definitely dirty hard which is why so many people would like someone like Ondra get on it. Didn't McClure say something along the lines of unthinkable difficult.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: r-man on May 03, 2010, 11:51:04 am
But the BIG news is R-Man got his wish, sort of, on his rest day Ondra went to look at Violent New Breed.
We can only wonder as to why it didn't then make it on to his wish list...

Details, where are the details?! Did you talk to Ondra about it? What did he have to say?
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: roddersm on May 03, 2010, 11:54:00 am
Any news?? Really want to go climbing today but don't want to leave my computer in case I miss some thing  :P
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Jaspersharpe on May 03, 2010, 11:54:25 am
Thought I'd have a look on Cocktalk to see if there was any more information. It was a mistake.....
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: mark s on May 03, 2010, 03:49:31 pm
Haha,more people wanting him to try trad.its like trying to get valentino rossi into F1.why when you the best! Some of the comments on there are cringe worthy
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: oldfella on May 03, 2010, 03:52:46 pm
on a side note, what has he done bouldering???
anything of note?

excuse my ignorance, but lord of the rings & harry potter books have never been of interest to me
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Johnny Brown on May 03, 2010, 03:59:17 pm
Pissed up a couple of 8Bs on his rest days I think.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: GCW on May 03, 2010, 04:00:50 pm
Not a lot really, he's more of a routes man.  He's only done:

7 8b+ (one of which is Dreamtime again, after hold breakage- different sequence)            
19  8b (3 flashed)         
29 8a+ (5 flashed)                  
51 8 (15 flashed)

Crap really  :o
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Nemo on May 03, 2010, 04:15:13 pm
"Who the fuck's advising this guy?"

He is.  He's come to the UK to climb at the best sport climbing cliffs in the UK - i.e Malham and Kilnsey.  Anyone wanting him to go anywhere else should get over it.  So far he’s had 2 days at each with a rest day in between.  Presumably he’s headed back to one or the other today to try and finish off either Overshadow or Northern Lights. 

Its great that he’s managed to avoid the usual trap sprung on visiting sport climbers who, arriving in Sheffield, are informed that sport climbing is rubbish, and that what they really want to do is to go out on the grit so they can be burnt off by the locals on scary slabs!
 
"all this in 7 degrees and a strong wind, for some of us mortals it was too cold to climb hard....................................................."

Whilst it may be too cold if you are wanting to have a pleasant, relaxed weekends sport climbing, if you are wanting to climb the hard routes on North Buttress at Kilnsey, conditions are about as perfect as they ever get.  Those routes are normally only ever dry in summer when it is also usually hot and sweaty.  To get them dry at the beginning of May, on a week with cold northerly winds blowing down the crag is incredibly lucky. 

I think he’s also been smart to realise this and shift his attention from Malham to Kilnsey once he realised it was dry.  Good conditions at Malham (and Raven’s Tor etc) are much easier to come by.


As for VNB – To be fair, unlike most of Gaskins’ offerings, this is actually on decent rock and is actually in a nice location.  Unfortunately it is also a nasty 3 or 4 move Font 8C boulder problem up an 8 foot square wall stuck on top of a 25 foot HVS.  Nothing wrong with that if that’s your bag, but it ain’t what Ondra’s come here for.  (As others have said, boulderers like Nalle are the kind of people who are more likely to be interested in this.)

Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: GCW on May 03, 2010, 04:47:35 pm
As for VNB – To be fair, unlike most a small proportion of Gaskins’ offerings, this is actually on decent rock and is actually in a nice location.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Fiend on May 03, 2010, 05:22:25 pm
As for VNB – To be fair, unlike most a small proportion all but 2 or 3 of Gaskins’ offerings, this is actually on decent rock and is actually in a nice location.
:spank:

I think VNB looks like very good rock in the classic photo of the Big G on it. But I can see how it is so specialist it's not really one for Ondra.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: GCW on May 03, 2010, 05:25:14 pm
I'm always amused that people still think that all the Gaskins stuff is on shit rock.  It's just not true.  :lol:
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: SA Chris on May 03, 2010, 05:29:19 pm
That's true, he has done a few things on rock types other than limestone :)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Fiend on May 03, 2010, 06:04:15 pm
No but they are generally fucking ugly lowball grovels. Walk Away SS, Isla De Enchanta and VNB look pretty nice. Anything else looks flange, just very hard flange. Okay apart from Pillbox thingy but that's only because it's miles from his home turf and he was probably struggling to find some real dank ugly limestone holes. He must have not looked up left just after driving along the toll road  :lol:
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: 9b on May 03, 2010, 06:44:17 pm
If conditions and time, I'm pretty sure he likes to "eat" every kind of rock, short too ;-)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: GCW on May 03, 2010, 07:36:35 pm
Having seen the man himself today, I won't have this nonsense.   :furious:

Fiend, apologise immediately or I'll send round At Work to bite your ankles.   :spank:




But what else did Ondra get done?
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: IanP on May 03, 2010, 08:24:51 pm
Wasn't there myself but a text at the crag said he redpointed Northern Lights today.  If true 2 of the 4 hardest routes in Yorkshire ticked in 3 days  :jaw:
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Johnny Brown on May 03, 2010, 09:13:49 pm
Quote
Who the fuck's advising this guy?

Steady on Nemo. That was about the report on UKC of him hitting Hutton Roof.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Serpico on May 03, 2010, 09:19:36 pm
Quote
Who the fuck's advising this guy?

Steady on Nemo. That was about the report on UKC of him hitting Hutton Roof.

Could've been worse, if he hadn't had to go back to Kilnsey today to finish Northern Lights his plan was to go to the Tor to try Hubble and Mutation.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Houdini on May 03, 2010, 10:38:54 pm
The worlds best climber

Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Control freak on May 03, 2010, 11:42:36 pm
Its great that he’s managed to avoid the usual trap sprung on visiting sport climbers who, arriving in Sheffield, are informed that sport climbing is rubbish, and that what they really want to do is to go out on the grit so they can be burnt off by the locals on scary slabs!

Hmmm, last time I checked, everytime Johnny foreigner gets out on the grit they put us all to shame crushing yesterdays testpieces. Lets face it, if you can climb 9a+ then a scary 7b arete or an 8a+ with some wires isnt gonna cause too many problems....
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Johnny Brown on May 04, 2010, 08:32:51 am
Its hardly everytime... you just don't get to hear about all the EPIC FAILS.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Jaspersharpe on May 04, 2010, 09:15:57 am
Let's not go down that route anyway.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Doylo on May 04, 2010, 09:50:03 am
Every year foreigners come and eat up the grit. It has been great to hear about some of the proper hard climbing in britain getting some attention. I m amazed that he got those north buttress routes so quickly.mainly because they must have been filthy.northern lights in particular has seen hardly any attention since steve did it.i would have thought it would of taken two days to clean it never mind climb it.also it is a slightly meandering line and with no chalk on it he was starting from scratch. Its pretty significant getting a bit of dirt on your shoe on a 9a.what an absolute fucking beast. Hopefully he ll come back for the tor/LPT.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Fiend on May 04, 2010, 10:04:55 am
Let's not go down that route overgraded and overhyped highball anyway.
:whistle:

Only natural to encourage Johnny Foreigner onto Johnny Grit tho, it is rather good.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: SA Chris on May 04, 2010, 10:34:53 am
Shame few of them ever experience Torridon Sandstone.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Ru on May 04, 2010, 03:29:17 pm
To put everyone out of their misery, yesterday he finished off Northern Lights which he thought was very good, onsighted Full Tilt, carried on but dropped the onsight of True North right at the very top just below the Urgent Action rail, onsighted Ecstacy and onsighted Mandela. It was freezing yesterday at Kilnsey, even colder than on Saturday with strong winds whistling down the valley. I couldn't stay warm between climbs.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Rocksteady on May 04, 2010, 03:55:13 pm
I was geeky enough to check out Ondra's very up-to-date 8a.nu scorecard.

By Overnite Sensation he noted: 'Must come back for Overshadow. It is pretty stiff 9a+ indeed. Possibly 9b? I have no clue, it is very specific move.' Good to hear, props to Ste Mac!

He's added Northern Lights to his list of 10 recommended ascents and rated it as 'a great power endurance testpiece'.

Apparently he thought Mandela was soft at 8b, and described Zoolook as 'one of the best and hardest 8as'.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Paul B on May 04, 2010, 04:51:29 pm
Apparently he thought Mandela was soft at 8b, and described Zoolook as 'one of the best and hardest 8as'.

I've heard that before from Kristian.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: JohnM on May 04, 2010, 05:10:52 pm
Does anyone know how much pre-cleaning went on before he did these routes?  Mandela and Ecstasy must have been pretty filthy.  He must have had a cleaning team working through the night!
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Ru on May 04, 2010, 05:15:41 pm
Ecstasy was clean, he said Mandela wasn't too bad even though it wasn't cleaned prior to him doing it.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Tim Broughtonshaw on May 04, 2010, 05:41:36 pm
Does anyone know how much pre-cleaning went on before he did these routes?  Mandela and Ecstasy must have been pretty filthy.  He must have had a cleaning team working through the night!

Dan did ecstacy on the saturday so it was presumably cleaned recently prior to ondra's onsight.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Jaspersharpe on May 04, 2010, 05:49:42 pm
It's pretty staggering the way he knocks off 9a as if it's nothing. When you think that the project that became North Star defeated the best in this country for years and he casually ticked it in four goes.
 :bow:

As people have said, we already knew what he was capable of but it really brings it home when it's at crags (and on routes) that we all know.

Great to see that he thinks Overshadow is possibly 9b and also that he's obviously been impressed with the quality of the routes in general.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Stu Littlefair on May 04, 2010, 05:57:32 pm
most importantly; he said the 45s on my beastmaker we're 'impossible'. Makes me feel better for never managing to hang them...
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: GraemeA on May 04, 2010, 07:51:55 pm
most importantly; he said the 45s on my beastmaker we're 'impossible'. Makes me feel better for never managing to hang them...

So there's only 3 people can hang those holds. Who are they  ;)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Paul B on May 04, 2010, 09:00:38 pm
most importantly; he said the 45s on my beastmaker we're 'impossible'. Makes me feel better for never managing to hang them...

didn't keith transfer from the tiny mono's to the 45's with nonchalant ease at Maisonbleau?
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: account_inactive on May 04, 2010, 09:05:05 pm
I think that Graeme is referring to Jerry
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: GraemeA on May 04, 2010, 10:00:20 pm
I think that Graeme is referring to Jerry

Not quite, I was paying due homage to the shit stained shorts boy by using his quote. But obviously Dan the Man and Ned the Ned can hang the 45 degree deranged Tory Boy (ie sloper) so who is the 3rd person. Obviously Ondra is a weak punter if he can't  ;)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: jwi on May 04, 2010, 10:18:00 pm
So Overshadow may be the world's first 9b route then?
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: dave on May 04, 2010, 10:39:16 pm
Bearing in mind rouhling did akira at F9b in 1995.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: jwi on May 04, 2010, 10:49:48 pm
route I wrote. (Can of worms to open eager I am.)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: account_inactive on May 04, 2010, 11:32:17 pm
I think that Graeme is referring to Jerry

Not quite, I was paying due homage to the shit stained shorts boy by using his quote. But obviously Dan the Man and Ned the Ned can hang the 45 degree deranged Tory Boy (ie sloper) so who is the 3rd person. Obviously Ondra is a weak punter if he can't  ;)

I know at least 5 people who can hang them (obviously not me)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Jaspersharpe on May 05, 2010, 09:48:44 am
Er, loads of people can hang them but Stu was on about "his" Beastmaker which I presume is either mounted at a slightly different angle or smeared with lard thus making hanging the 45s a much more difficult proposition. There's been much discussion before about slight differences in how the board is mounted and in temperature / wood grain etc can make a huge difference to how hard it is to use certain holds.


At least I think that's what Stu meant.  :-\
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: RichK on May 05, 2010, 01:01:25 pm
http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=37381 (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=37381)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Stu Littlefair on May 05, 2010, 01:08:26 pm
Er, loads of people can hang them but Stu was on about "his" Beastmaker which I presume is either mounted at a slightly different angle or smeared with lard thus making hanging the 45s a much more difficult proposition. There's been much discussion before about slight differences in how the board is mounted and in temperature / wood grain etc can make a huge difference to how hard it is to use certain holds.


At least I think that's what Stu meant.  :-\

Well, he didn't see any other beastmakers, so yeah - that's what I meant. My board isn't really mounted straight, which probably doesn't help. And he looked at it for 30 seconds. After all that crushing, are we really going to fixate on his beastmaker prowess? Have we really strayed so far from the path?
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Jaspersharpe on May 05, 2010, 01:15:43 pm
Personally I couldn't care less. Just being a pedant about people getting their facts right.  :-[
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: GraemeA on May 05, 2010, 02:01:44 pm
Well Stu when I see Ondra at the first Bouldering World Cup next week I will tell him that your BM wasn't set correctly. This will reassure him that he isn't as weak as piss and he will go onto to win the comp with his self confidence restored.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: oldfella on May 05, 2010, 02:52:14 pm
out of interest, has any UK climbing journalist had a formal interview with Ondra??
it would be worthwhile reading a climbing magazine with a decent well constructed article for a change..

the week past has done 3 things IMO,
1. shown that england has some hard world class sport routes
2. Ondra is simply in a class of his own. once in a generation talent
3. that a guy who works and has a  young family still manages to be the best climber in england. great effort steve  :bow:
this i feel is equally a outstanding achievement.


hopefully this week will be the catalyst for a new generation of strong and talented UK climbers .  time will tell..
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: GraemeA on May 05, 2010, 05:17:47 pm
Grimer interviewed him at Arco in September, can't remember if it appeared anywhere though
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: cowboyhat on May 05, 2010, 06:17:35 pm

3. that a guy who works and has a  young family still manages to be the best climber in england. great effort steve  :bow:
this i feel is equally a outstanding achievement.



Hear, hear.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: grimer on May 05, 2010, 06:25:25 pm
Grimer interviewed him at Arco in September, can't remember if it appeared anywhere though

Yes I did. It formed part of an article I did for Rock and Ice. Here's the pertinent section:

In an effort to justify my existence from a journalistic point of view, I decided I would interview the best climber in the world. Adam Ondra is only sixteen years old and eats 9a for breakfast, lunch and dinner. This might well be all he eats, for he is tall and skinny, with gangling limbs and with his knucklejoint knees and shy loping walk, he reminds me of an hour-old foal. Chris Sharma once told me that he understands what all the top climbers in the world do, and how they do it, apart from Adam. Adam was on a different level, he assured me.

“Good luck,” a Spanish journalist wished me. "I have tried to interview Adam now three times but he is very shy. Very shy.”

I suspected this was true. Earlier Adam had been at the prize ceremony, having come third to the Austrian David Lama and Spaniard Ramonet. Adam stood on the 3rd place box while an amazing looking blond beauty gave a huge bunch of flowers to him. He stood, awkwardly, obviously not really knowing what to do. I recognised this look from my own teenage experiences, and I imagined the horror of standing there with everyone looking. Next David came out, looking cool and surly and confident and they shook hands. Ramonet then came out (Ramonet, little Ramonet who, when stood on the winner’s block was still a little shorter than Adam on his third-place block), and he and David gave each other one of this cool handshakes, with different parts to it and biceps and backslaps. He turned to Adam and they exchanged one of those handshakes that you imagine English explorers give each other at the South Pole in 1907.

I found him, and he agreed to an interview. We sat down on a bench, I set up my Dictaphone and launched off into my specially prepared questions.

“What’s your favourite colour? Do you prefer cats? Tits or ass?

These weren’t the questions I really asked, although maybe I should have. Instead I asked about 9as and redpointing and grades. He answered politely, but quite soon into it a voice inside my head started to point out the fact that this was probably the hundredth time some tedious man more than twice his age was asking him the same tedious questions. It started to point out to me what a bore I was, and whether I had nothing better to do than asking little boys about what subjects they do at school. Pretty soon, to save both of us from further humiliation, I found myself thanking Adam effusively for a tremendous interview and scurrying off to a café to drown my embarrassment in some melted cheese.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: GraemeA on May 05, 2010, 07:44:24 pm
Would that be the same David Lama who later on that evening was trying to fathom out whether he could extract the Guiness that flows in all Irish viens by sucking bits of your body?
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Percy B on May 05, 2010, 09:17:32 pm
Would that be the same David Lama who later on that evening was trying to fathom out whether he could extract the Guiness that flows in all Irish viens by sucking bits of your body?

I don't know about everybody else, but I have spent the last few moments trying to shift some very disturbing imagery from my mind..... "Ahhhh, c'mon David. The Irish body has even evolved a special fleshy nozzle to distribute the 'Guiness', to be sure, to be sure...."
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: duncan on May 05, 2010, 10:31:10 pm
most importantly; he said the 45s on my beastmaker we're 'impossible'. Makes me feel better for never managing to hang them...

This brings to mind a comment from Jack Geldard's blog (http://jackgeldard.com/page/2/), attributed to Adam Long:

“My lodger spends his evenings in our cellar hanging off a piece of carved wood he calls a ‘beastmaker’, he claims this is training for rock climbing. Bizarre.”

Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: c.j.d. on May 06, 2010, 04:26:43 pm
Nodder can hang the 45's for 30 seconds.  Thats 8a you know.  Wow, Nodders cooler than Ondra.  Nodra - a new breed.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: c.j.d. on May 06, 2010, 04:27:46 pm
Although that could be absolute shit, spray  and hearsay.   :)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Fultonius on May 06, 2010, 07:02:31 pm
absolute shit, spray  and hearsay.   :)

That sounds like the recipe for a UKC News Article...  :-\
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: chummer on May 06, 2010, 09:01:14 pm
A 'Nodra' would be able to lock'em off with one arm whilst rolling a tab with the other..
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Jim on May 06, 2010, 09:51:29 pm
wouldn't a nodra have snakes instead of hair?

that would be far cooler than dangling off a bit of wood
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: RichK on May 06, 2010, 10:42:45 pm
Apparently he on-sighted Predator, the Oak and Magnetic and had 3 RPs on Overshadow.

Got some footage which I'll bob on here when I work out how :-\ :whistle:
 

Rubbish footage I'm afraid.............
Ondra - Overshadow RP. (http://www.vimeo.com/11534937)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: oldfella on May 07, 2010, 12:21:08 am
from Rich K's Energy Vampire video.
"its ok to grab the chain"
what sort of ethics are they?? :spank:
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Serpico on May 07, 2010, 12:29:18 am
from Rich K's Energy Vampire video.
"its ok to grab the chain"
what sort of ethics are they?? :spank:

It would have been impressive if he had - there is no chain on EV.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Adam Lincoln on May 07, 2010, 10:18:59 am
More importantly, what sort of belaying was that on the EV clip.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: RichK on May 07, 2010, 10:26:05 am
from Rich K's Energy Vampire video.
"its ok to grab the chain"
what sort of ethics are they?? :spank:

It would have been impressive if he had - there is no chain on EV.

  :wall: Its a maze of ethics round those shit short routes catwalk mega classics :shrug:
 
Energy Vampire Footage......

Ondra - Energy Vampire O/S attempt. (http://www.vimeo.com/11535443)



Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Serpico on May 07, 2010, 10:26:57 am
A Lovatt belay for a Lovatt route?
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Adam Lincoln on May 07, 2010, 10:28:47 am
A Lovatt belay for a Lovatt route?

Looks like he also did the coming in from the left beta?
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Serpico on May 07, 2010, 10:34:02 am
A Lovatt belay for a Lovatt route?

Looks like he also did the coming in from the left beta?

World's best climber comes to Malham, misses out the hardest move on EV and then falls off the top - Lovatt's gonna be unbearable when he hears about that.
Title: Ondrawad
Post by: Tim Broughtonshaw on March 07, 2011, 03:33:10 pm
sure some English reports will appear soon

http://desnivel.com/escalada-roca/adam-ondra-8c-mas--a-vista-en-etxauri (http://desnivel.com/escalada-roca/adam-ondra-8c-mas--a-vista-en-etxauri)
Title: Re: 8c+ onsight for ondra.
Post by: Stubbs on March 07, 2011, 03:43:04 pm
Quote
Witnesses tell us that the police Fuck and Tekken is not even removed the cats.

That's what I thought too
Title: Re: 8c+ onsight for ondra.
Post by: Tim Broughtonshaw on March 07, 2011, 03:44:58 pm
Quote
Witnesses tell us that the police Fuck and Tekken is not even removed the cats.

That's what I thought too

lol yeah  translates as ....witnesses say he didnt even remove his climbing shoes between "fuck the police" and tekken.
Title: Re: 8c+ onsight for ondra.
Post by: robertostallioni on March 07, 2011, 03:48:33 pm
Quote
witnesses say he didnt even remove his climbing shoes between "fuck the police" and tekken

Thats nothing. I often see folks leave their shoes on all day.  :blink:
Title: Re: 8c+ onsight for ondra.
Post by: shark on March 07, 2011, 05:46:06 pm
There's only one emoticon can do justice to this:

:badger:
Title: Re: 8c+ onsight for ondra.
Post by: Adam Lincoln on March 07, 2011, 05:52:27 pm
There's only one emoticon can do justice to this:

:badger:

Indeed.
http://www.badgerbadgerbadger.com/ (http://www.badgerbadgerbadger.com/)
Title: Re: 8c+ onsight for ondra.
Post by: Cassidy on March 07, 2011, 06:08:51 pm
The latest update seems to say he has now onsighted 9a!!!!!!!!!!
Title: Re: 8c+ onsight for ondra.
Post by: Cassidy on March 07, 2011, 06:11:40 pm
"Ultimísima hora" (lunes, 19 h):

¡¡Adam Ondra acaba de encadenar a vista Bizi euskaraz!!


 :o :thumbsup:
Title: Re: 8c+ onsight for ondra.
Post by: lukeyboy on March 07, 2011, 06:15:25 pm
Quote
Witnesses tell us that the police Fuck and Tekken is not even removed the cats.

That's what I thought too

I prefer the google translation

"Witnesses tell us that the police and Tekken Fuck even removed the cats."

And yes it does now look like he has onsighted 9a  :o
Title: Re: 8c+ onsight for ondra.
Post by: lukeyboy on March 07, 2011, 06:18:42 pm
Actually having looked at it again I'm now thinking he has onsighted Bizi Euskaraz (8c+) but the previous bit says he was going to try Bizi Euskaraz and Begi Puntuan (9a). I think these are 2 different routes....?

Still....!
Title: Re: 8c+ onsight for ondra.
Post by: Cassidy on March 07, 2011, 06:21:47 pm
oh well just another 8c+ then!
Title: Re: 8c+ onsight for ondra.
Post by: ducko on March 07, 2011, 08:14:27 pm
ondra's too good, annoying curly haired mother with skills..
Title: Re: 8c+ onsight for ondra.
Post by: Moo on March 07, 2011, 08:52:13 pm
hate on the boy all you want but leave the mother out of this
Title: Re: 8c+ onsight for ondra.
Post by: ducko on March 07, 2011, 08:53:53 pm
i dont hate the guy he's just too good, he needs to come try big bang and get the 2nd ascent
Title: Re: 8c+ onsight for ondra.
Post by: slackline on March 07, 2011, 08:58:04 pm
i dont hate the guy he's just too good, he needs to come try big bang and get the 2nd ascent

Thats an oxymoron.
Title: Re: 8c+ onsight for ondra.
Post by: Ethan on March 09, 2011, 08:58:00 pm
He's only gone and onsighted two more 8c+!

http://danifuertes.blogspot.com/ (http://danifuertes.blogspot.com/)
Title: Re: 8c+ onsight for ondra.
Post by: Teaboy on March 09, 2011, 10:15:30 pm
As Sid Waddell might have said; "When Alexander of Macedonia was 33, he cried salt tears because there were no more worlds to conquer...Ondra's only 17."
Title: Re: 8c+ onsight for ondra.
Post by: Doylo on March 10, 2011, 05:26:46 pm
This level of performance is quite shocking and a clear step up.8c+ onsight is obviously not his limit judging by these performances.incredible.the guy  who stated on the other channel that this is not a step up is wrong.
Title: Re: 8c+ onsight for ondra.
Post by: andybfreeman on March 10, 2011, 05:44:24 pm
This level of performance is quite shocking and a clear step up.8c+ onsight is obviously not his limit judging by these performances.incredible.the guy  who stated on the other channel that this is not a step up is wrong.


:agree: Ondra is clearly on a different level!
Title: Re: 8c+ onsight for ondra.
Post by: lukeyboy on March 10, 2011, 06:14:30 pm
This level of performance is quite shocking and a clear step up.8c+ onsight is obviously not his limit judging by these performances.incredible.the guy  who stated on the other channel that this is not a step up is wrong.

(http://imgs.xkcd.com/comics/duty_calls.png)
Title: Re: 8c+ onsight for ondra.
Post by: ferret on March 10, 2011, 09:16:25 pm
Ondra en Etxauri (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fdfP5aoFEvQ&feature=player_embedded#ws)
Title: Re: 8c+ onsight for ondra.
Post by: Andy F on March 10, 2011, 10:34:52 pm
Ondra makes that look about 6c+, nevermind 8c+. I hope I guess all the really hard stuff was low down, before the clip started...
Title: Re: 8c+ onsight for ondra.
Post by: Ethan on March 10, 2011, 10:57:15 pm
Interview below.

http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=37961# (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=37961#)
Title: Re: 8c+ onsight for ondra.
Post by: Duma on March 10, 2011, 11:15:36 pm
This is fucking insane, another level is right.

Interesting line from the article linked above:
"Ondra himself knows far better than anyone else where his chances lie and it is worth noting that at Extauri the other day he opted to leave Begi puntuan for another trip. And that he has consistently resisted temptation and steered clear of the iconic Realization at Ceuse... "
Title: Re: 8c+ onsight for ondra.
Post by: Jaspersharpe on March 11, 2011, 12:01:47 pm
If he's never seen any of the Realisation videos then that really is impressive forward planning!
Title: Re: 8c+ onsight for ondra.
Post by: Doylo on March 11, 2011, 12:15:44 pm
I imagine  he'd be happy with the flash on a 9a+ jasp!
Title: Re: 8c+ onsight for ondra.
Post by: Jaspersharpe on March 11, 2011, 12:47:03 pm
Punter. Aim high!
Title: Re: 8c+ onsight for ondra.
Post by: slackline on March 14, 2011, 01:00:51 pm
Ondra has added an extension to an exisiting Dani Andrada 8c+ (Obrint pas extension) to give a proposed 9a+ (Obrint el sistema) from Kairn (http://www.kairn.com/news_escalade~74660.adam-ondra-espagne-nouvelle-voie-montagne-escalade-extreme-liberee-santa-ana.html?#n74660).

Took him 5 go's  :o
Title: Re: 8c+ onsight for ondra.
Post by: Jaspersharpe on March 14, 2011, 01:11:12 pm
Does that article actually call him "Harry Potter"?  :lol:
Title: Re: 8c+ onsight for ondra.
Post by: IanP on March 14, 2011, 03:25:38 pm
Ondra has added an extension to an exisiting Dani Andrada 8c+ (Obrint pas extension) to give a proposed 9a+ (Obrint el sistema) from Kairn (http://www.kairn.com/news_escalade~74660.adam-ondra-espagne-nouvelle-voie-montagne-escalade-extreme-liberee-santa-ana.html?#n74660).

Took him 5 go's  :o

According to Desnivel (Google translate) it was an open project:

Czech climber continues its tour of our country and chains 'Obrint the system' 9a +, an open project by Dani Andrada five years ago, and that is the continuation of 'Obrint pas extension' 8c +.

Also:

Dani Andrada's opinion on Adam Ondra, "It's inhumane. Has revolutionized climbing. To the extent that when he makes a 9a + paste the fifth gives you the feeling that it has cost to how strong he is! "

Title: Re: 8c+ onsight for ondra.
Post by: Paul B on March 14, 2011, 03:53:56 pm
We should probably just change the thread title to 'Ondrawad' and set an RSS the rate he churns out newsworthy ascents/repeats!
Title: Re: 8c+ onsight for ondra.
Post by: Ethan on March 14, 2011, 06:57:39 pm
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fOaZs14D6F0&feature=player_embedded#at=165 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fOaZs14D6F0&feature=player_embedded#at=165)

Title: Re: 8c+ onsight for ondra.
Post by: Doylo on March 14, 2011, 08:38:52 pm
Good to see even andrada is shocked!
Title: Ondrawad
Post by: shark on March 20, 2011, 09:46:20 pm
We should probably just change the thread title to 'Ondrawad' and set an RSS the rate he churns out newsworthy ascents/repeats!

Good idea - I will make it sticky too

We are not worthy

 :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Baldy on March 20, 2011, 10:57:45 pm
Got to say, that is my favourite tantrum so far  :lol:

I dont blame him though, he looked so solid for the finish!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Ethan on March 21, 2011, 10:57:37 am
And another 8c+ onsight! Mind Control in Oliana. :bow:
Title: Re: 8c+ onsight for ondra.
Post by: north_country_boy on March 21, 2011, 11:25:03 am
Good to see even andrada is shocked!

There is a brilliant Spanish climbing DVD (name escapes me - but its always on loop in the Siurana bar on wet days!) which has footage of Ondra literally Running up La Rambla, while Andrada, Ojeda and Marin look on in amazement!

Edu Marin almost seems ready to pack in climbing.......Andrada however sees it as a personal motivation to try harder and tick his project! Although his subsequent comments about Ondra having the physique of a Freak are amusing....
Title: Re: 8c+ onsight for ondra.
Post by: jwi on March 21, 2011, 01:42:07 pm
Good to see even andrada is shocked!

There is a brilliant Spanish climbing DVD (name escapes me - but its always on loop in the Siurana bar on wet days!) which has footage of Ondra literally Running up La Rambla, while Andrada, Ojeda and Marin look on in amazement!

Fanatic search. http://www.triaylaurent.com/worklessclimbmore-dvd-video-escalade-guides-espagne.html (http://www.triaylaurent.com/worklessclimbmore-dvd-video-escalade-guides-espagne.html)
The Fanatic Search2 is also well worth watching.  I bought it as an HD-download and really liked the footage from Verdon (Tom et Je Ris and that long thing Durif onsighted in a 100 m pitch....)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: simes on March 22, 2011, 06:02:37 pm
Got to say, that is my favourite tantrum so far  :lol:

I dont blame him though, he looked so solid for the finish!

He makes some very odd noises.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Robsons on March 23, 2011, 08:55:02 am
Ondrawad - perfect!
All these 8c+ onsights and the videos to follow means I will never be able to onsight them "now"! g'uh!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Ethan on March 28, 2011, 07:30:15 am
It appears that he may have grabbed the FA of Sharma's Shaxi Raxi, 9b! Followed by another 8c+ onsight, all in the same day.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on March 28, 2011, 12:56:09 pm
Jeebus Christ.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on March 28, 2011, 01:02:18 pm
http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=38012 (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=38012)

Not sure what to say but this seems to sum it up..... :w00t:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on March 28, 2011, 01:04:42 pm
Quote
Well, it's circa 40m high with the crux after the second bolt, a difficult section which would be about Fb8B+ boulder. This is then followed by circa 9a/9a+ climbing, with some good rests.

Fucking hell.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: shark on March 28, 2011, 01:45:58 pm
Quote from: url=http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=38012

Which, from some points of view, risks being made banal by its mind-blowing numbers and above all the frequency with which Ondra himself manages to send. But this certainly is anything but banal, on the contrary! And there can be no doubt that what Ondra has shown us during these last fortnight is the start of the future.
  :agree:

Not sure what to say either so I'll leave it to the badgers

:badger: :badger: :badger: :badger: :badger:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Baldy on March 28, 2011, 01:49:58 pm
Just completely gobsmacking. 8B+ halfway up a wall followed by 9a/+ afterwards.

If he put his mind to bouldering I feel like Daniel Woods would be blown out of the water too.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Rocksteady on March 28, 2011, 04:36:27 pm
I was in Oliana on Thursday and watched him trying Shaxi Raxi. He got a big cheer from the onlookers when he made it past the 3rd bolt, which shows how hard and bouldery the start was. Then he was cruising and looking set to do it when he cocked up his footwork and slipped off at about 40m up...

Awe-inspiring pterodactyl-esque screaming ensued. I would have laughed a little if I wasn't so terribly afraid. Normal humans cannot make those sounds!

Really pleased he got it, amazing to watch him climb. I also enjoyed seeing him warm up easily on an 8a.

The kid is the next level.   8) :bow:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Palomides on March 28, 2011, 04:46:06 pm
Over on the other channel, Björn is saying that Ondra and Sharma are off to try Chilam Balam together in a week or two.

Then all he has to do is tick Akira and The Big Bang, and that should have finished off pretty much everything from the nineties, no? (OK google tells me that Chila Balam was 2003, but still.)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on March 28, 2011, 05:00:50 pm
Your going to upset the Gaskinites!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: north_country_boy on March 28, 2011, 05:58:14 pm
With all these 9b's under his belt, he'll be better placed to grade Overshadow if he comes back  ;)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: GCW on March 28, 2011, 06:05:15 pm
Your going to upset the Gaskinites!

To be fair, that is basically a boulder problem with a rope.  It was the hardest moves Gaskins ever did, so it's no giveaway at font 8c, so the F9a+ grade is a little misleading.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on March 28, 2011, 06:08:48 pm
I think Ondrawatch news needs to be recalibrated. Unless the grade has a 9 and a b in it he shouldn't get a mention.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Paul B on March 28, 2011, 06:15:48 pm
"Ondrawad" "Ondrawatch" "Ondrawadtch"  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: shark on March 28, 2011, 06:58:40 pm
With all these 9b's under his belt, he'll be better placed to grade Overshadow if he comes back  ;)

Keith said he's planning to come back in a few weeks
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Adam Lincoln on March 28, 2011, 07:14:06 pm
With all these 9b's under his belt, he'll be better placed to grade Overshadow if he comes back  ;)

Keith said he's planning to come back in a few weeks

Pete better get a wriggle on then if he wants the second ascent of Big Bang.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on March 28, 2011, 07:40:36 pm
There was a pic in climber of ondra standing under VNB with a cheeky smile.I wouldn't try this route if i was ondra.why if you can climb amazing 50 metre routes with font 8b+ on them would you want to pull on a two move route on razors that the first ascentionist (font 8c climber)had to spend 100 days on
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: joel on March 28, 2011, 07:50:28 pm
"Ondrawad" "Ondrawatch" "Ondrawadtch"  :thumbsup:
  :goodidea:

amazing stuff. What's to come....
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: iain on March 28, 2011, 08:24:36 pm

Just incredible.

Did any of it get captured on film? It seems the fancy one that was due last year is still in production.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: mikester on March 28, 2011, 08:29:40 pm
Truly amazing stuff. Sometimes I'm proud of my modest little achievements, but suddenly seem a bit trivial. Hey ho.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Yoof on March 28, 2011, 08:52:13 pm
Whatta monster. Am I the only one who is a bit confused as to what a "Circa" is?

I Like Ondrawadch :)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: chummer on March 28, 2011, 09:21:17 pm
Am I the only one who is a bit confused as to what a "Circa" is?

:clap2: that's priceless! Cheered me up  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on March 28, 2011, 10:16:38 pm
Am I the only one who is a bit confused as to what a "Circa" is?

:google: can be used as a dictionary (http://tinyurl.com/4c6ohm7) as well as a search engine.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Beastio on March 28, 2011, 10:57:58 pm
There was a pic in climber of ondra standing under VNB with a cheeky smile.I wouldn't try this route if i was ondra.why if you can climb amazing 50 metre routes with font 8b+ on them would you want to pull on a two move route on razors that the first ascentionist (font 8c climber)had to spend 100 days on

Take that back!  :badidea:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on March 29, 2011, 08:19:51 am
With all these 9b's under his belt, he'll be better placed to grade Overshadow if he comes back  ;)

Was thinking about this. It's pretty amazing that Ondra is so far ahead of the game that he's acting as a one man boy grade calibrator for the World. Finally we're able to see where routes really stand in history (Open Air being the perfect example) as he also seems pretty good at realising what is hard because it's hard and what just isn't his style. From what he's said already, Steve's routes stand the test and Overshadow may actually be 9b. Which is interesting.

It's also interesting that people are talking about "the next level" as if it's a movement in standards created by a general shift in ability rather than one kid being so much better than everyone else. I realise there are other very talented youngsters coming through (Enzo Oddo, Geoffrey Flanburglaries etc) but Ondra is so far ahead at the moment, I don't think climbing has ever witnessed anything like it. Knocking over 9b projects in a few days and warming down with an 8c+ onsight is incomprehensible. When he does eventually spend some time on something you can see it standing unrepeated for decades.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: IanP on March 29, 2011, 10:16:16 am
We arrived at Oliana on a rest day crag tour just in time to hear the cheers when he rp'd the 9b.  Watched him onsight the 8c+ though to be honest its was so low key we thought he hadn't quite made it until we saw the info on the web later - a couple of power screams high up was about it.  I'm sure it's been said before but its amazing how fast he climbs, just blasting through the moves, missing out every other clip as he gets high up. 

Seems to me that he's the Usain Bolt of the climbing working on a different plane to everyone else.  As Bolt  backs off and waves to the crowd while breaking the 100m world record, Ondra has holiday ticks which are among the hardest routes in the world and warms down with an 8c+ onsight.

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on March 29, 2011, 08:07:52 pm
With all these 9b's under his belt, he'll be better placed to grade Overshadow if he comes back  ;)

Was thinking about this. It's pretty amazing that Ondra is so far ahead of the game that he's acting as a one man boy grade calibrator for the World. Finally we're able to see where routes really stand in history (Open Air being the perfect example) as he also seems pretty good at realising what is hard because it's hard and what just isn't his style. From what he's said already, Steve's routes stand the test and Overshadow may actually be 9b. Which is interesting.

It's also interesting that people are talking about "the next level" as if it's a movement in standards created by a general shift in ability rather than one kid being so much better than everyone else. I realise there are other very talented youngsters coming through (Enzo Oddo, Geoffrey Flanburglaries etc) but Ondra is so far ahead at the moment, I don't think climbing has ever witnessed anything like it. Knocking over 9b projects in a few days and warming down with an 8c+ onsight is incomprehensible. When he does eventually spend some time on something you can see it standing unrepeated for decades.
Yep tis unreal!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Palomides on March 30, 2011, 01:31:23 pm

Photos of Ondra on Chaxi Raxi here (http://www.climb4fun.cz/climb4fun/thumbnails.php?album=78)

Although to be fair they look like any other pics of Ondra (pale & skinny on steep rock wearing Miuras).

Linked to by http://kairn.com/news_escalade_74844.portfolio-ondra-shaxi-raxi-9b-oliana.html (http://kairn.com/news_escalade_74844.portfolio-ondra-shaxi-raxi-9b-oliana.html) (who persist in undermining their reputation as a serious news source by calling him "Harry Potter"  :thumbsup: )


Uh? how come there are two "thumbsup" emoticons in the list but both use the same bbcode? I prefer http://ukbouldering.com/board/Smileys/ukbCustom/thumbsup2.gif (http://ukbouldering.com/board/Smileys/ukbCustom/thumbsup2.gif)
(http://ukbouldering.com/board/Smileys/ukbCustom/thumbsup2.gif)
to
http://ukbouldering.com/board/Smileys/ukbCustom/thumbsup.gif (http://ukbouldering.com/board/Smileys/ukbCustom/thumbsup.gif)
(http://ukbouldering.com/board/Smileys/ukbCustom/thumbsup.gif)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on March 30, 2011, 01:55:19 pm

Uh? how come there are two "thumbsup" emoticons in the list but both use the same bbcode? I prefer http://ukbouldering.com/board/Smileys/ukbCustom/thumbsup2.gif (http://ukbouldering.com/board/Smileys/ukbCustom/thumbsup2.gif)
(http://ukbouldering.com/board/Smileys/ukbCustom/thumbsup2.gif)
to
http://ukbouldering.com/board/Smileys/ukbCustom/thumbsup.gif (http://ukbouldering.com/board/Smileys/ukbCustom/thumbsup.gif)
(http://ukbouldering.com/board/Smileys/ukbCustom/thumbsup.gif)

Noticed that too, there was a similar problem with the "wank" smileys but Bubba sorted it (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,17197.msg305141.html#msg305141).
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on March 30, 2011, 02:12:11 pm
Nice link to another UKC Chilam Balam shitstorm there too.  :worms:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: robertostallioni on March 30, 2011, 02:34:04 pm
I wonder why I bother. I think thats me, over and out.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on March 30, 2011, 02:49:09 pm
I wonder why I bother.

 :lol: Yeah that's what I thought when I read it. You were  :wall: :wall: :wall:

You can't educate pork.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on March 30, 2011, 02:55:36 pm
Thought this was amusing though...

Quote
> Given that Adam Ondra spends most the time with his shirt off, how come he's so pasty?

A) he climbs everything so quickly that the amount of time he spends topless is minimal.
B) All the routes he climbs are so overhanging the sun doesn't hit them.
C) He's a ghost... he doesn't actually climb the routes, he flies up them screaming as he goes.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on March 30, 2011, 02:59:35 pm
Really?  :tumble:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Bubba on March 30, 2011, 03:14:40 pm
Smilies are now thumbsup and 2thumbsup.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Yoof on April 02, 2011, 07:58:50 pm
Haha! Oops.
 ":google:can be used as a dictionary as well as a search engine"
Wonderful :D Thanks guys.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: lemony on April 13, 2011, 09:00:19 pm
First(?) Ascent of Chillam Ballam according to Bjorn on the other side. 4 attempts, fine machine:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=61640 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=61640)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Ethan on April 13, 2011, 09:17:00 pm
 :bow: :bow: :bow:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Andy F on April 13, 2011, 09:28:20 pm
 :jaw: :ohmy: :clap2:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Baldy on April 13, 2011, 09:50:38 pm
wowza...
Just completely stunning...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: lukeyboy on April 13, 2011, 09:51:20 pm
All hail the mighty ondrawad  :bow:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on April 14, 2011, 08:48:48 am
Just amazing.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on April 14, 2011, 08:59:12 am
Awesome.

Is this Barnabe bloke a bit of a Richard Simpson type then?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on April 14, 2011, 09:02:23 am
If you mean an extremely talented climber, many of whose ascents are shrouded in controversy.......... then yes.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on April 14, 2011, 09:09:03 am
That's what I meant.

If I had meant bonkers fantasist who could never get close to doing it I would have said Si O'Connor type.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on April 14, 2011, 09:20:45 am
The spanish grapevine says 9a+/b
http://desnivel.com/escalada-roca/adam-ondra-encadena-chilam-balam (http://desnivel.com/escalada-roca/adam-ondra-encadena-chilam-balam)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Rocksteady on April 14, 2011, 09:28:38 am
The Ondrawad rules!   :bow: :bow: :bow:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Serpico on April 14, 2011, 09:36:57 am
It's not all about the climbing (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?keyid=38054). I think he's just on a mission to make me feel inadequate, expect a super-model girlfriend next.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: andy_e on April 14, 2011, 10:25:44 am
He's only done that to get his weight down even further.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Rocksteady on April 14, 2011, 10:34:11 am
If I act as donee of his bone marrow, will I acquire some of his powers?
 :alien:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Palomides on April 14, 2011, 11:03:06 am

No route is safe. That is seriously impressive. :2thumbsup:

I can't bring myself to go and see the news reports over at 8a.nu. I imagine there's a certain amount of gushing going on.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: JohnM on April 14, 2011, 12:08:06 pm
Is this not the route that had bolt on holds on one section?  Does anyone know if Ondra used these?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on April 14, 2011, 12:11:18 pm
I bet he made it look piss.Mawson told me something that put that mind con :thumbsdown:trol onsight footage into perspective.while he was working Humildes pas case the 8b+ that shares the same start Dave graham,one of the best climbers of the last 10 years was working mind control and having a really hard time.he was struggling to get between the bolts.the gulf is gettng massive! Id like to see ondra do akira.it might be a bit shit looking but its one of the last unknowns.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nigel on April 14, 2011, 12:27:44 pm
Is this not the route that had bolt on holds on one section?  Does anyone know if Ondra used these?

No that was Orujo 9a+ at Archidona (?).
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Stubbs on April 14, 2011, 12:39:52 pm
Ukc article now updated with an interview from Ondra, normal 9b apparently, maybe soft....
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Baldy on April 14, 2011, 07:06:20 pm
pffft, hardly newsworthy then.
Not even an FA!

Everyone can stop gushing now.  :coffee:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: JamesR on April 14, 2011, 10:15:48 pm
 Don't worry lads, he'll discover the joys of lager and late night clubs soon enough.  ;)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: nik at work on April 15, 2011, 12:02:01 am
It's not all about the climbing (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?keyid=38054). I think he's just on a mission to make me feel inadequate, expect a super-model girlfriend next.
If you want to become a donor go here:
http://www.anthonynolan.org/ (http://www.anthonynolan.org/)

Do it, it's pretty unlikely you'll be a match for someone and this selfless shit is a definite gusset moistener for the ladies (oh and you might save someones life blah-de-blah-whatever...)

Ondra is good at climbing.

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: willackers on April 17, 2011, 08:19:00 pm


Ondra is good at climbing.
 

 :agree:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on April 19, 2011, 08:25:27 am
 :popcorn: :bow:

Adam Ondra en Chilam Balam y proyecto de Villanueva del Rosario (Málaga) (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iSvgABrW_ms#)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on April 19, 2011, 08:35:31 am
Jug pull! It looks very cool.

Classic spanish adventure mullet at the start there.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Duma on April 19, 2011, 03:25:13 pm
It's not all about the climbing (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?keyid=38054). I think he's just on a mission to make me feel inadequate, expect a super-model girlfriend next.
If you want to become a donor go here:
http://www.anthonynolan.org/ (http://www.anthonynolan.org/)

Do it, it's pretty unlikely you'll be a match for someone and this selfless shit is a definite gusset moistener for the ladies (oh and you might save someones life blah-de-blah-whatever...)

Ondra is good at climbing.

Indeed, do it. some german girl who did saved my little sisters life.
sorry for off topic...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: boulderingbacon on April 19, 2011, 08:20:25 pm
nice vid slackline, good to see ondra climbing something different from his usual style of minging crimps. still amazes me how quick he climbs, so fluent.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: andy popp on April 25, 2011, 07:56:46 am
Project in that last video now sent, 'nother 9b etc. etc.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Ethan on April 25, 2011, 08:06:11 am
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00ZZmZdap84&feature=player_embedded#at=426 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00ZZmZdap84&feature=player_embedded#at=426)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Krank on April 25, 2011, 10:52:43 am
8a.nu reports it went down in 8 tries, 8 tries for christ sake.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Krank on April 28, 2011, 10:45:31 pm
Chilam Balam (http://vimeo.com/22814261)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Kingy on April 28, 2011, 10:54:00 pm
Does anybody know where that last bit is where he takes a hang at the end of the vid. Is that the crux bit involving a two finger pocket?
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Nike Air on May 12, 2011, 09:17:52 pm
He is back in town :chair: :bounce:
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Doylo on May 12, 2011, 09:20:30 pm
someone kidnap him and bring him to LPT for a easy day out, please!!!!!!!!!!!!  :please:
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Dexter on May 12, 2011, 09:28:30 pm
bring him to the cave more like   :)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Richie Crouch on May 12, 2011, 09:32:51 pm
Would be good to see Big Bang then In Hell into Bonnie extension on his active rest day  :bow:
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Kingy on May 12, 2011, 09:37:17 pm
 :popcorn:

Cool, stick him back on mutation immediately!
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Doylo on May 12, 2011, 09:43:56 pm
or maybe he'd crack the so called Holy Trinity on the quick, Big Bang, pilgrimage and jonnys pill box problem
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: ducko on May 12, 2011, 10:33:45 pm
im with doylo, bring the lad too LPT!
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Robsons on May 13, 2011, 09:39:06 am
Looking forward to this...good lad! :popcorn:
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: ianv on May 13, 2011, 09:58:45 am
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5063/5619294173_677da6ccb7.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/37621241@N05/5619294173/)
Picture1 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/37621241@N05/5619294173/#) by ianvincent (http://www.flickr.com/people/37621241@N05/), on Flickr
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: ali k on May 13, 2011, 10:43:30 am
Are you busy on film duty again Rich?  :great:

 :please:
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Robsons on May 13, 2011, 05:59:36 pm
Any updates...?
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Andy F on May 13, 2011, 08:17:03 pm
According to a mate a the crag today, Overshadow is still holding out, or was by the time he left.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: mikester on May 13, 2011, 08:22:24 pm
According to a mate a the crag today, Overshadow is still holding out, or was by the time he left.

Come on Overshadow, you can do it!
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Serpico on May 13, 2011, 09:04:15 pm
According to a mate a the crag today, Overshadow is still holding out,

Officially hard then.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Doylo on May 13, 2011, 09:07:01 pm
I heard his foot popped on the top section, sounds like its a goer  :punk:
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: 220bpm on May 13, 2011, 09:53:12 pm
Gotta love the fight and effort that went into the FA and the only only serious repeat effort to date.

Just 'kin awesome  :bow:

Proud so see this unfold on our shores.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Nike Air on May 13, 2011, 10:16:51 pm
His first effort today was awesome, a foot popping was the thing stopping him just short of the belay. Another go falling at the crux then the last go as we were leaving he just nearly made it through the crux but it spat him off. He is awesome to watch, he knows how to battle. Maybe though if he had not refused one of my biscuits he would have done it......
He made connect5 look 6b+ too.
Come on Adam :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Tim Broughtonshaw on May 13, 2011, 10:51:45 pm
Maybe though if he had not refused one of my biscuits he would have done it......

Like your thinking Jordan. We all need to feed him biscuits.  Somehow we need to destroy this lanky bendy freak....one biscuit at a time...
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: mark s on May 14, 2011, 07:44:59 am
Are there any routes he has admited defeat to?
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: robertostallioni on May 14, 2011, 07:52:43 am
As in, said he'll never be able to do, or failed on, or dropped the o/s and not bothered to redpoint?

He didn't bother  to r/p lots of routes at Malham last year.
He hurt his finger in Spain on Demencia Senil. Dont know if he went back for it.

Was it a rhetorical question?

is this?

or this?

Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Nibile on May 14, 2011, 12:13:51 pm
I've read he lowered off from one of moroni's routes last year. ste mac is clearly a wad of wads.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Danny on May 14, 2011, 12:42:59 pm
Didn't he get shut down on this?

http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?keyid=36940# (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?keyid=36940#)

Punt.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Nemo on May 14, 2011, 07:48:29 pm
Quote
“Are there any routes he has admitted defeat to?” – mark s
No (AFAIK).  And there aren’t likely to be any either.  But obviously as said above, there’s loads of routes he’s had brief plays on but not finished off – obvious examples being Demencia Senil, Pachamama, Neanderthal etc etc etc…

He does have the odd “relatively weak” spot though – notably arm strength…  So there may be the odd gymnastic route with lots of footless moves that he might find a bit spicy.  (Perhaps Akira - although he’s made it pretty clear he’s not interested in travelling large distances for stuff in caves like this in the near future so not likely to find out at least for a while).   But according to a recent interview, last winter he started “non climbing“ training for the first time (ie: campussing / weights etc) and plans to do much more next winter, so I suspect his “weak points” won’t be “weak” for very long…

Danny – not heard about him trying Eternit – find it very hard to believe that he would have got “shut down” on it…  It’s clearly going to be hard, but it’s totally his cup of tea…  Can’t imagine he tried it very much / rubbish conditions or something…  Looks like a brilliant route though and suspect, whether or not he has tried it already, he’ll be heading up there at some point.


On a different note, either by luck / judgement / or maybe a bit of both, he’s arrived in the UK in another week of pretty much perfect conditions for hard sport climbing…  Great to see Steve’s routes getting the attention they deserve…
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Fiend on May 15, 2011, 12:12:19 pm
VNB. Would be nice for him to have a play if nothing else. Although maybe more of a Woods / Robinson / Graham type thing...
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Doylo on May 15, 2011, 12:24:29 pm
Ondras as good at bouldering as that lot
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Baldy on May 15, 2011, 03:11:51 pm
he was so far ahead of the field at the Sheff WC last year I dare say he would piss their projects within a few sessions.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Nemo on May 15, 2011, 06:01:04 pm
Quote
“Ondras as good at bouldering as that lot” – Doylo
Not in general IMO (yet at least) – although Confessions is arguably the hardest flash.  The majority of his most impressive bouldering ascents have been power endurance problems.  And it’s power endurance (and quick recovery ability) that wins bouldering world cups (route climbers often do very well in bouldering comps).  But IMO, he isn’t quite at the top level yet in terms of short power problems.  Again, it largely comes down to lack of arm strength – until recently he couldn’t do a one armer (not sure if that’s still the case) and has done very little dynamic campussy type stuff.  On longer problems this kind of thing doesn’t make the slightest difference, but on short stuff that kind of oomph in the arms is often very important.  He’s done very few really hard short problems and those that he has done he’s found (relatively of course) difficult. 

Quote
“VNB. Would be nice for him to have a play if nothing else.” - Fiend
It wouldn’t particularly surprise me if he does have a quick play on it either on this or a future trip just to see what the score is.  (In the long run I suspect he pretty much aims to climb all the hard sport routes out there…)  But for me at least, if I had to rank the 9’s in the UK in order of quality this would be near the bottom – it’s not that it’s a bad route – it actually looks pretty good.  But Overshadow, Rainshadow etc really are up there with stuff like La Rambla and Realization as some of the very best hard sport routes in the world and those – not VNB or Parisella’s Cave - are what has drawn Ondra to the UK.  Having said that, VNB along with a few of Roughling’s routes are pretty much the last big “unknowns” in hard sport climbing – so it would be interesting if he had a play on it at some point.

To speculate wildly - I suspect that IF Gaskins’ sequence is the only way of climbing this then I’m quite sure it’s utterly nails.  But it is basically a really short boulder problem (with an approach that requires a rope).  On things like this, differences in height / etc can make big differences and it wouldn’t surprise me greatly if Ondra did try it, if he threw in an egyptian and found a much easier sequence.  But if the only way is Gaskins’ way, then I suspect that if he did have a quick play, he’d probably just suss out what he would need to specifically train and then leave it for a future trip. 



Anyway, what’s the latest?  Or is everyone avoiding Malham for fear of looking like a groupie?
 :popcorn:
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Doylo on May 15, 2011, 06:12:24 pm
Quote
“Ondras as good at bouldering as that lot” – Doylo
Not in general IMO (yet at least) – although Confessions is arguably the hardest flash.  The majority of his most impressive bouldering ascents have been power endurance problems.  And it’s power endurance (and quick recovery ability) that wins bouldering world cups (route climbers often do very well in bouldering comps).  But IMO, he isn’t quite at the top level yet in terms of short power problems.  Again, it largely comes down to lack of arm strength – until recently he couldn’t do a one armer (not sure if that’s still the case) and has done very little dynamic campussy type stuff.  On longer problems this kind of thing doesn’t make the slightest difference, but on short stuff that kind of oomph in the arms is often very important.  He’s done very few really hard short problems and those that he has done he’s found (relatively of course) difficult. 

He only goes bouldering twice a year, has probably the hardest flash ever and does stuff like Dirt and Big Paw as quick as the top boulderers. They might not be one move problems but if we're talking bouldering ability he's up there.  He might not be as strong but he can climb most of the same stuff they can despite concentrating on 40m+ routes for 95 % of the year.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Andy F on May 15, 2011, 06:15:44 pm

Anyway, what’s the latest?  Or is everyone avoiding Malham for fear of looking like a groupie?
 :popcorn:

According to someone on the other channel, Overshadow is still holding out.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: saltbeef on May 15, 2011, 06:20:17 pm
i agree with doyle. bear in mind some of these 9bs. you do an 8b boulder problem then instead of dropping off you rumble off up a 9a route! it is unthinkable.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Doylo on May 15, 2011, 06:21:41 pm
i agree with doyle. bear in mind some of these 9bs. you do an 8b boulder problem then instead of dropping off you rumble off up a 9a route! it is unthinkable

8b+ boulder problem on Chaxi Raxi then 9a/+!!!!!
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Nemo on May 15, 2011, 06:41:32 pm
Quote
"He only goes bouldering twice a year, has probably the hardest flash ever and does stuff like Dirt and Big Paw as quick as the top boulderers. They might not be one move problems but if we're talking bouldering ability he's up there.  He might not be as strong but he can climb most of the same stuff they can despite concentrating on 40m+ routes for 95 % of the year." - Doylo

Entirely agree with all that...  Don't get the wrong idea - I'm not criticizing him in any way shape or form - for me he's without doubt the best all round sport climber / boulderer ever.  And he's still 18 and getting exponentially better by the day.  But you said it yourself - he doesn't go bouldering very often (or hasn't so far).  Clearly, given that fact, what he has achieved in bouldering is nothing short of gobsmacking.  And I'm quite sure that IF he put a bit more time into it (as I'm sure he will in the future) then he'll be up there at the very highest level in all aspects of bouldering.     

I was merely pointing out that at present at least I think generalised statements like:

Quote
Ondras as good at bouldering as that lot
and
Quote
he was so far ahead of the field at the Sheff WC last year I dare say he would piss their projects within a few sessions.
are a little wide of the mark...
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Doylo on May 15, 2011, 06:54:56 pm
Ondras as good at bouldering as that lot





are a little wide of the mark...

On the evidence it's not wide of the mark for reasons i stated.  He might not have a tick list (as we've said he hardly boulders) as meaty as the top boulderer's but he's demonstrated his ability is no less with the hard ascents that he's done and the speed they've taken him.  I think he'd meet his match on VNB tho, unless as you say he can technique it. Didn't Steve Dunning work out a potential long man's sequence years ago? Fuck Overshadow must be hard!  :clap2: 
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: ali k on May 15, 2011, 07:34:05 pm

 Didn't Steve Dunning work out a potential long man's sequence years ago?


How long? Am I in with a chance? :bounce:
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Baldy on May 15, 2011, 07:34:27 pm
Has he taken his training weight vest off yet?
Is it just me or is there less coverage this time than last?
Can we get a correspondant out there?

The majority of his most impressive bouldering ascents have been power endurance problems. 

Dunno...this looks pretty strong to me...

Stix SD_8B+ (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=edrqt5Sajos&feature=related#ws)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Doylo on May 15, 2011, 07:45:39 pm

 Didn't Steve Dunning work out a potential long man's sequence years ago?


How long? Am I in with a chance? :bounce:

You'd piss it you lanky twat. That Kaela Borroka stamina will be right handy...
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Clart on May 15, 2011, 08:07:02 pm

Dunno...this looks pretty strong to me...

Stix SD_8B+ (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=edrqt5Sajos&feature=related#ws)

He does well there. Hearing the Swedish chief from the Muppets in the background would put me right off...

Muppet Show - Swedish Chef - making donut (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mbs64GvGgPU&feature=related#)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Ethan on May 16, 2011, 08:16:10 pm
Finally did Overshadow today.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: shark on May 16, 2011, 08:20:17 pm
Finally did Overshadow today.

Nice one Ethan. How did you find it?
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: andy popp on May 16, 2011, 08:25:32 pm
Is that 6 days (3 last year, 3 this)? Its got to come in at 9b surely?

Great news anyway.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Snoops on May 16, 2011, 09:13:49 pm
Is that 6 days (3 last year, 3 this)? Its got to come in at 9b surely?

Great news anyway.

Waddage :clap2:
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: willackers on May 16, 2011, 09:21:46 pm
Awesome!
:clap2:
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: slackline on May 16, 2011, 09:33:33 pm
Good work Adam, and respect to Steve McClure for putting up such a world class route.


Finally did Overshadow today.

Nice one Ethan. How did you find it?

 :lol:
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: grimer on May 16, 2011, 09:49:39 pm
Yes indeed. We raise a glass to Adam and Steve.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Doylo on May 16, 2011, 09:52:38 pm
ace
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Doylo on May 16, 2011, 10:05:44 pm
Bat Route onsight aswell
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Nike Air on May 16, 2011, 10:22:06 pm
 :great: well done Adam!!   :clap2:
Onsighting Bat route but falling off Cry freedom, think i will move my clips over.....
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: stom on May 16, 2011, 11:04:44 pm
http://www.steve-mcclure.com/
 (http://www.steve-mcclure.com/)  Words from the man himself!  :beer2:
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Rocksteady on May 17, 2011, 09:40:58 am
Brilliant!

Ondrawad  :great:  :clap2:

Ste wad   :strongbench:  :bow:
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Robsons on May 17, 2011, 10:33:18 pm
BOOM! Love this...WAD points to both
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: uptown on May 17, 2011, 10:34:55 pm
Truly inspired after todays viewing and company.  :bow:
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: TobyD on May 17, 2011, 11:12:31 pm
 :agree:  amazing.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: slackline on May 18, 2011, 09:12:06 am
Ondra has done Rainshadow too according to Stemac5a (https://twitter.com/#!/stemac5a/statuses/70762806802264064)

Quote from: Steve McClure
A well named route. Rainshadow also falls to Ondra despite torrential downpours. The Malham window is closing but stayed open just enough.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Ethan on May 18, 2011, 09:33:06 am
And hes off to the Tor today!
http://www.steve-mcclure.com (http://www.steve-mcclure.com)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: slackline on May 18, 2011, 09:41:06 am
And hes off been to the Tor today!
http://www.steve-mcclure.com (http://www.steve-mcclure.com)

Says he's leaving at 09:30!
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Doylo on May 18, 2011, 10:54:35 am
Ooo interesting thoughts on Total Eclipse!
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: T_B on May 18, 2011, 11:42:08 am
What impresses me too is that he's pretty canny about getting the conditions isn't he? He wasn't at Malham in the heat of April, and judging by the excellent conditons at the Tor last night, this morning will be primo for pulling on some mingin shiny crimps...
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Doylo on May 18, 2011, 11:43:50 am
He hit Malham during the best conditions in 2010 and 2011, can't be a fluke!
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Teaboy on May 18, 2011, 11:48:35 am
I think the Total Eclipse ascent the most interesting, must be terrifying to go up there, those bolts must be pretty old.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Doylo on May 18, 2011, 11:58:25 am
If they're stainless they should be ok. Not every route from the 90s has knackered bolts
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Rocksteady on May 18, 2011, 12:00:58 pm
He hit Malham during the best conditions in 2010 and 2011, can't be a fluke!

Maybe instinctively sensing the best conditions to crush is one of the Ondrawad's powers.  :alien:
Nice for SteMac to have the quality of Rainshadow confirmed.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Serpico on May 18, 2011, 03:38:39 pm
I think the Total Eclipse ascent the most interesting, must be terrifying to go up there, those bolts must be pretty old.

That's only a concern if there's a chance you might fall off.
Ondra doesn't fall off 9a's 8)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: ianv on May 19, 2011, 08:59:25 am
did ondra do anything at the tor after he stopped laughing?
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: dave on May 19, 2011, 09:08:32 am
I doubt there was anyone to chaperone him on pinches wall at that time in the morning, so I imagine he couldn't get warmed up.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: roddersm on May 19, 2011, 10:15:29 am
Report on UKC says he got pretty close to doing Hubble.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Ru on May 19, 2011, 11:40:15 am
He wrote on 8a.nu scorecard about Bat Route, "Soft and old classic, does it deserve the upgrade on 8c? hard to say, but harder than Unjustified"

Did he try and onsight Unjustified too?
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: IanP on May 19, 2011, 11:55:34 am
Did he try and onsight Unjustified too?

According to Climber

'We received word from Ondra's friend and photographer Vojtech Vrzba, who is accompanying him again on this trip, this evening. He confirmed that Ondra sent Overshadow on his first attempt of the day on Monday and then went on to onsight Bat Route and narrowly missing an onsight of Unjustified. '

From Steve's blog that would be the same day he also fitted a working go on Rainshadow before redpointing it the next morning.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Rocksteady on May 19, 2011, 02:07:53 pm
Words of the wad himself on 8a.nu re: Rainshadow: "Honestly one of the best climbs I have done, only Raindogs could be less polished"

How cool is that!?  :2thumbsup:

He described Overshadow as 'a mental war'!
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Will Hunt on May 19, 2011, 02:25:05 pm
"Honestly one of the best climbs I have done, only Raindogs could be less polished"

So does that mean "Rainshadow is really good and Raindogs is the only climb at Malham that is less polished"?

Or does it mean "Rainshadow is really good. Raindogs is really good too but could do with being less polished"?

The first seems unlikely?
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Ru on May 19, 2011, 02:47:56 pm
It means "Rainshadow is really good, but one of the things that spoils it slightly is the polish on Raindogs."
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: metal arms on May 19, 2011, 02:52:34 pm
It means "Rainshadow is really good, but one of the things that spoils it slightly is the polish on Raindogs."
Coming over here, climbing our routes....
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Footwork on May 19, 2011, 02:55:55 pm
I hope this means we get some more foreign talent coming over in the future to have a go at some of our test-pieces.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: gme on May 19, 2011, 04:09:31 pm
I hope this means that some of our youngsters get on geriatric Steve's routes now, has this not broken down the aura that surrounded them.

I know ondra is a in a league of his own but surely a few of our top boys could start making a dint into these world class routes with a bit of effort. We constantly claim not to have any good hard routes here or that the ones we do are never in condition but that's obviously just bollocks. Ondra is a man/boy who has done or been on the hardest and best routes in the world and places rainshadow and northern lights as amongst the best. Is it really the case that the only UK climber capable of climbing them is more than old enough to to be Adams dad (granddad in certain parts of Liverpool).

Its nice to see he "failed" to do a 20 year old route on his jollys, i know he only spent 3 hours on it but he seems to onsight 8c+  every other week so 3 hours should have been ample time.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: T_B on May 19, 2011, 04:14:24 pm
I hope this means we get some more foreign talent coming over in the future to have a go at some of our test-pieces.

There was a Japanese guy trying Hubble tuther evening. Pretty cool to see.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Rocksteady on May 19, 2011, 04:14:34 pm
"Honestly one of the best climbs I have done, only Raindogs could be less polished"

So does that mean "Rainshadow is really good and Raindogs is the only climb at Malham that is less polished"?

Or does it mean "Rainshadow is really good. Raindogs is really good too but could do with being less polished"?

The first seems unlikely?

I took it to mean:

Rainshadow is one of the best routes I have done. It is only spoiled slightly by the fact that its start (up Raindogs) is polished.

Which I thought was good for Steve and the rep of UK sport climbing!

Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Will Hunt on May 19, 2011, 04:27:42 pm
Apologies for my ignorance. It is quite obvious when you know that Rainshadow starts up Raindogs  ::)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: uptown on May 19, 2011, 04:38:42 pm
He wrote on 8a.nu scorecard about Bat Route, "Soft and old classic, does it deserve the upgrade on 8c? hard to say, but harder than Unjustified"

Did he try and onsight Unjustified too?

Yep, he fell off Unjustified thanks to a foothold breaking.

I think the SYKE that Adam has managed to impart over here with his visits can only help encourage some of us Brits onto these hard routes. Sam 'had a look' at both Rainshadow and Bat route the other day, and he had a massive smile on his face when he came down.
I'll certainly have a dabble at some point in the future.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Tim Broughtonshaw on May 19, 2011, 05:26:38 pm
"Honestly one of the best climbs I have done, only Raindogs could be less polished"

So does that mean "Rainshadow is really good and Raindogs is the only climb at Malham that is less polished"?

Or does it mean "Rainshadow is really good. Raindogs is really good too but could do with being less polished"?

The first seems unlikely?

definately means the second.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Ru on May 19, 2011, 09:02:27 pm
I hope this means we get some more foreign talent coming over in the future to have a go at some of our test-pieces.

There was a Japanese guy trying Hubble tuther evening. Pretty cool to see.

An older looking japanese guy?
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Adam Lincoln on May 19, 2011, 10:08:33 pm
He wrote on 8a.nu scorecard about Bat Route, "Soft and old classic, does it deserve the upgrade on 8c? hard to say, but harder than Unjustified"

Did he try and onsight Unjustified too?

Yep, he fell off Unjustified thanks to a foothold breaking.

Hope it wasn't an important one. :(
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: saltbeef on May 19, 2011, 10:20:44 pm
I hope this means we get some more foreign talent coming over in the future to have a go at some of our test-pieces.

There was a Japanese guy trying Hubble tuther evening. Pretty cool to see.

An older looking japanese guy?

he looked exceptionally hungry
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: account_inactive on May 19, 2011, 11:05:17 pm
So did he climb Unjustified and downgrade it to 8b+ (assuming he thought it easier that Bat Route) or did he just try to flash it and fall because of a broken foot hold?
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: remus on May 20, 2011, 09:13:53 am
Few good snaps courtesy of the other channel: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=62293 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=62293)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: cofe on May 20, 2011, 09:26:48 am
Didn't realise it was the first time 8c had been onsighted/flashed in the UK - is that right? Impressive as the rest if so.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: slackline on May 20, 2011, 09:27:53 am
Nice, he looks like he's really enjoying himself.  :clap2:
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: cofe on May 20, 2011, 09:53:32 am
the smug twat ;)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Doylo on May 20, 2011, 10:56:50 am
Didn't realise it was the first time 8c had been onsighted/flashed in the UK - is that right? Impressive as the rest if so.

It is. Interesting he rated Bat Route as 'soft' as most brits who get on it seem to think it isn't. Pinch of salt with that one maybe
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Bonjoy on May 20, 2011, 11:02:57 am
How come this thread has been stickified? Didn’t realise Ondra was planning to come back and stay at Malham indefinitely. And there is already a stickified Ondra thread….
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: slackline on May 20, 2011, 11:09:22 am
Indeed, why not just merge the two threads?  :shrug:
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: habrich on May 20, 2011, 11:18:05 am
Indeed, why not just merge the two threads?  :shrug:
Hmm ... yes let's do that. Fuck knows what the result will be but I am blaming you if it's unsavoury ...  :)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on May 20, 2011, 11:24:26 am
Seems to have worked ok, all* posts from the previous thread are in here in chronological order.

* Well, when I say all, I mean I can see posts from both threads in here.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Stu Littlefair on May 20, 2011, 11:37:56 am
It is. Interesting he rated Bat Route as 'soft' as most brits who get on it seem to think it isn't. Pinch of salt with that one maybe

Maybe not. Most of us aren't endurance beasts, Steve had a duff sequence and Mawson crushed it. Maybe it is soft. I'm telling myself it is anyway, in the hope that it will actually make it easier.

The Sunday at Malham was really an amazing scene; watching Steve and Adam working desperate projects, Timmy and Dave taking massive peelers off the groove. Very inspiring. 
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Doylo on May 20, 2011, 11:47:06 am
Quote
Maybe not. Most of us aren't endurance beasts, Steve had a duff sequence and Mawson crushed it. Maybe it is soft. I'm telling myself it is anyway, in the hope that it will actually make it easier.

I guess so, Unjustified's endurance though isn't it and everyone's loving that. BR has some decent rests doesn't it, so Ondra would have been fully fresh on the sections (he probably didn't need to rest though!)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Stu Littlefair on May 20, 2011, 12:31:54 pm
Unjustified is power endurance really, a sprint with no good rests. It's only ~30 moves after the chain of something stupid.

Bat Route is much more of a stam-fest, with a couple of really, really good rests. It's all about how well you recover really, which is not my strong point, at least.

I reckon Bat Route is probably harder than Unjustified (for me it certainly is), but it may well be quite a soft 8c.

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on May 20, 2011, 01:28:47 pm
Caff has been on BR recently and said it was one of the hardest routes he's tried.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: cofe on May 20, 2011, 01:34:00 pm
not seen this posted, or am i being dense? he falls off, but sounds like he's trying hard. thank god.

Ondra - Overshadow RP. (http://vimeo.com/11534937)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on May 20, 2011, 01:44:07 pm
Was from last year
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: cofe on May 20, 2011, 01:49:33 pm
bet it was.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Stu Littlefair on May 20, 2011, 01:52:18 pm
Caff has been on BR recently and said it was one of the hardest routes he's tried.


Awesome, so not only is it soft (and I will therefore crush it), but it offers the possibility of burning off Caff.  ;)

You can't crush my psyche  :boxing:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: PATRuL on July 10, 2011, 08:35:42 am
its possible if your weaknesses are known
but if you have non then i agree
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on July 14, 2011, 03:10:24 pm
Another 8c+ for Ondra, this time of the Italian route The Miser (http://translate.google.com/translate?js=n&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&layout=2&eotf=1&sl=it&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.planetmountain.com%2FNews%2Fshownews1.lasso%3Fl%3D1%26keyid%3D38344)

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on July 14, 2011, 03:38:09 pm
Mere 8c+, like reporting I climbed some stairs :)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on July 14, 2011, 04:00:09 pm
I managed to omit the fact that the report (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=38345) (this ones in English rather than translated from Italian) states it was on-sight.  :clap2:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on July 14, 2011, 04:05:31 pm
Ok, me climbing a lot of stairs!

Amazing.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: BenF on July 15, 2011, 07:40:47 am
Ok, me climbing a lot of stairs!

You climbing a lot of stairs without resting or having previous knowledge of where those stairs go or which foot to place on each step.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Robsons on July 15, 2011, 09:03:11 am
Love how this was just a stop off between Chamonix and Arco...cranker!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on July 15, 2011, 11:08:20 am
Delete the thread,cease the praise, he just came 17th in the world cup. What a punt
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on July 15, 2011, 11:21:59 am
I don't think he's that bothered with competitions (http://www.urbanclimbermag.com/climber_profiles/ondra_face_to_face_with_the_worlds_best_climber/index.html)....

Quote from: Ondrawad
There are also rumors you won’t compete in the World Cup this year. True? Well, my main target is the World Championship in summer. I might compete on some World Cup stages, but I won’t compete in the whole circuit, neither in lead nor in bouldering.

Why? I’m just motivated for rock climbing! After the last year full of competitions, I feel like I had enough and deserve some time without them.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on July 15, 2011, 11:23:30 am
Too much rock climbing, makes you weak. fact
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on July 15, 2011, 11:40:20 am
The standard at the world cup is just mind blowing. Another fact.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Teaboy on July 15, 2011, 01:31:00 pm
Too much rock climbing, makes you weak. fact

He should take up yoga.......
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Baldy on July 15, 2011, 10:00:26 pm
He might have bailed out of the competition scene,

but then another 5.14c onsight to soothe everyones nerves...


http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/adam-ondra-another-514c-onsight (http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/adam-ondra-another-514c-onsight)  :smirk:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: ducko on July 16, 2011, 01:34:50 am
fromm what ive seen you need too climb indoors alot for comps where as curly boy seems too just hit up the crags good lad i say
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on July 16, 2011, 08:35:05 am
He might have bailed out of the competition scene,

but then another 5.14c onsight to soothe everyones nerves...


http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/adam-ondra-another-514c-onsight (http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/adam-ondra-another-514c-onsight)  :smirk:

See a few posts up.  ;)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Baldy on July 16, 2011, 01:19:12 pm
How embarrassing  :oops:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: dontfollowme on July 17, 2011, 01:59:23 pm
Through to the final in Arco in the bouldering.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: douglas on July 27, 2011, 04:41:28 pm
Ondra at Arco 2011: "This year I will focus on bouldering. I will travel to Rocklands and boulder areas in Europe."

Can't wait!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on July 27, 2011, 04:52:14 pm
South Lakes is in Europe......
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on August 08, 2011, 11:55:40 am
http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=38429 (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=38429)

Ondra does more hard things...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: gremlin on August 08, 2011, 12:41:53 pm
Has Ondra put a bit of muscle on? He looks a bit "bulkier", almost normal!  :)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: ducko on August 08, 2011, 05:15:26 pm
still beaten by first round first minute sharma is the king!  :bounce:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Stubbs on August 08, 2011, 06:28:30 pm
Sharma did spend a little bit of time on it before he sent though...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on August 08, 2011, 07:50:22 pm
sharma is the king! 

Swedish Computer based Scoring system says no.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on August 09, 2011, 05:50:50 am
8c+ second go? he must have spent the night before at the local strippers' club eh?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on August 09, 2011, 10:23:51 am
i doubt that!!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: ducko on August 09, 2011, 01:33:28 pm
sharma is the king! 

Swedish Computer based Scoring system says no.

well he puts up some of the best/craziest lines out of anyone so in my book he holds high regard
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on August 09, 2011, 02:27:36 pm
Can't disagree on that, but on current form Ondra is climbing harder stuff in better style than Sharma ever did.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: andy_e on August 09, 2011, 05:33:00 pm
I wouldn't say in better style, his hair is terrible.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: ziggytang on August 09, 2011, 11:02:26 pm
 :agree:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Baldy on August 15, 2011, 12:46:17 pm
Ondra - Monkey Wedding V15 3rd ascent.

http://climbingnarc.com/2011/08/adam-ondra-repeats-monkey-wedding-v15-rocklands-south-africa/?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+ClimbingNarc+%28ClimbingNarc.com%29&utm_content=FaceBook&ref=nf (http://climbingnarc.com/2011/08/adam-ondra-repeats-monkey-wedding-v15-rocklands-south-africa/?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+ClimbingNarc+%28ClimbingNarc.com%29&utm_content=FaceBook&ref=nf)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on August 15, 2011, 01:42:37 pm
Ondra - Monkey Wedding V15 3rd ascent. (http://climbingnarc.com/2011/08/adam-ondra-repeats-monkey-wedding-v15-rocklands-south-africa/)

http://climbingnarc.com/2011/08/adam-ondra-repeats-monkey-wedding-v15-rocklands-south-africa/?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+ClimbingNarc+%28ClimbingNarc.com%29&utm_content=FaceBook&ref=nf (http://climbingnarc.com/2011/08/adam-ondra-repeats-monkey-wedding-v15-rocklands-south-africa/?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+ClimbingNarc+%28ClimbingNarc.com%29&utm_content=FaceBook&ref=nf)

(You need to remove all the gumpf after the last '/' in the URL that has all of the details of where you came from before viewing the page, which appears to have been the ClimbingNarc Farcebook feed).

Also of note in the report...

Quote
After winning overall Gold at the 2011 World Championships in Arco Adam Ondra commented that he was going to spend the rest of the year focusing on bouldering

I expect there'll be plenty of hard repeats and projects falling between now and December then!  :bow:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Baldy on August 15, 2011, 01:49:58 pm
aye, should be good watching.

Although I wonder how much there is for him to do down there...bouldering does seem a bit  pointless *gasp* for him when it takes him about 10 minutes to do the hardest problems in the world - at least the hardest routes are taking a week or so.

However, if he starts putting up his own stuff down there, and sending their current projects, it really could be quite interesting.
Get him on the invisible man project!

Invisible Man Project, 8c++? (http://vimeo.com/20407523)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nemo on August 15, 2011, 06:28:17 pm
Quote
“still beaten by first round first minute” - Ducko
You must have high expectations for him if you think he’s been “beaten” after a couple of quick plays at the end of a week trip in August.  Did you expect him to onsight it?  I'm quite sure he'll be back on this at some point.

Quote
“when it takes him about 10 minutes to do the hardest problems in the world” - Baldy
Monkey Wedding took him 4 days – longer than Chilam Balam…  Then again it took Paul Robinson 10 days so it’s a flippin great effort.  Livin Large or some of the “big move” problems like Sky may be more challenging – or maybe not?  As you say – will be interesting to see how he gets on.  If everything does go easily, then I’m sure there’s still lots of great projects to get on.

Quote
“bouldering does seem a bit pointless *gasp* for him” - Baldy
Far from it.  As he’s said himself, arm strength and big campussy moves on sloping holds are his biggest weakness.  Think he’s probably avoided doing stuff like this until recently because it can cause problems and injuries for teenagers still growing.  But now he clearly knows it’s a relatively weak point.  He’s been training to improve it.  And some time spent focussing on bouldering could lead to massive rapid gains - whereas gains in things you are already great at are much harder to come by.  If he can combine Sharma or Woods’ arm and dynamic strength with his own ridiculous finger strength, technique, endurance and all round climbing ability – then I think 9c routes will be just around the corner.  And ridiculous as it sounds, if he stays psyched, I wouldn’t be at all surprised to see 10a within the decade. 
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: casa on September 07, 2011, 10:23:03 am
 :o
wowzer. watch this space
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: casa on September 07, 2011, 10:37:51 am
http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/journal/climb/athletes/bd-athlete-adam-ondra-reports-from-the-boulders-of-rocklands-south-africa?utm_source=hotwire-09022011-B&utm_medium=email&utm_content=main-promo&utm_campaign=ondra+in+rocklands (http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/journal/climb/athletes/bd-athlete-adam-ondra-reports-from-the-boulders-of-rocklands-south-africa?utm_source=hotwire-09022011-B&utm_medium=email&utm_content=main-promo&utm_campaign=ondra+in+rocklands)

oops..the link helps
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on September 07, 2011, 10:51:45 am
Back Diamond : Adam Ondra Reports from the boulders of Rocklands South Africa (http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/journal/climb/athletes/bd-athlete-adam-ondra-reports-from-the-boulders-of-rocklands-south-africa)

oops..the link helps

It would wouldn't it (see here for the link syntax (http://docs.simplemachines.org/index.php?topic=57))
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Ethan on September 07, 2011, 11:25:28 pm
FA of a 9a+ and a Font8C for the lad.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: chris_j_s on September 08, 2011, 02:05:22 pm
...and both on the same day. Amazing!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on September 08, 2011, 09:39:52 pm
jeepers creepers
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: metal arms on October 04, 2011, 11:31:52 am
Apparently he's crushed Magic Wood into Neutrinos...

Practice of the wild - 8C
Dark matter - 8B+/C
Remembrance Of Things Past - 8B+

And some easy stuff - Four 8A+s and an 8A!

From the other channel - http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=64366 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=64366)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on October 04, 2011, 11:35:21 am
Neutrinos? No wonder the news travelled fast.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on October 04, 2011, 01:52:52 pm
i think its safe to call him one of the world's best boulderers now. He matched Woods 3 days on Practice and halved Robinson's time on Monkey Wedding
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Rocksteady on October 05, 2011, 12:24:32 pm
What does Ondra mean when he says he's 'basically weak'?! Who is he comparing himself to, as he's matching the feats of the world's best boulderers? Animal strong.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: rehab21 on October 05, 2011, 12:37:53 pm
What does Ondra mean when he says he's 'basically weak'?! Who is he comparing himself to, as he's matching the feats of the world's best boulderers? Animal strong.

Orangutans. He reckons that orangutans are the perfect climbing animal, with a power to weight ratio that compares favourably with that of a Caterham 7 and a predictably massive ape index.

In the pub last week he was speculating that if orangutans weren't ginger or threatened with extinction that they would always be a far greater force in world bouldering than he is. Under current conditions he predicted he could overtake them within 3 - 4 seasons.

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on October 05, 2011, 12:41:03 pm
Probably compared to how he feels he could be.

As in when assessing his abilities as a climber, technique, route reading, stamina etc are nearer to what he feels his top level than his raw power which is still way off what it could be.

Scary if you think about it.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: joeisidle on October 05, 2011, 01:47:27 pm
Probably compared to how he feels he could be.

As in when assessing his abilities as a climber, technique, route reading, stamina etc are nearer to what he feels his top level than his raw power which is still way off what it could be.

Scary if you think about it.

Good point Jasper, and also it's worth bearing in mind that when he said that I don't think he'd climbed harder than 9a+ and 8B+. Now he's done multiple 9bs and is consistently doing 8Cs as quickly as anyone in the world, so maybe he'd be forced to admit that he's not quite as 'weak' as he used to be. (!)

Who knows, he might even be able to do a one armer now.....
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Rocksteady on October 05, 2011, 03:00:59 pm
Scary if you think about it.

I wish I was as weak as he is.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Muenchener on October 09, 2011, 10:26:14 pm
But what has he done on offwidth roof cracks?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: lukeyboy on October 09, 2011, 10:43:58 pm
But what has he done on offwidth roof cracks?

Ondra climbing a crack implies the holds on the face aren't good enough for him to pull on.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: boulderingbacon on October 09, 2011, 11:09:46 pm
when he says hes weak he just means he cant do one armers and stuff like that but his technique, height and finger strength all make up for that lack of pure brute strength
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on October 24, 2011, 12:52:38 pm
Not really news but thought this was a good vid of him bouldering with a few punters.

Legends Only (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4iiXB2y_ZvM#ws)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Seb on October 24, 2011, 09:25:40 pm
It really looked like nothing there challenged him much at all. Hes so far ahead of the pack, hes got to be capable of a Font 9a or a Gaskins 8c.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: r-man on October 24, 2011, 10:39:47 pm
Hes so far ahead of the pack, hes got to be capable of a Font 9a or a Gaskins 8c.

He looked the most clinical, but Woods looked much stronger than the rest - just didn't have the lank for a few problems. Comps are fun, but not sure you can draw many conclusions from several wads competing to make the least mistakes on problems well below their max.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: ferret on October 24, 2011, 11:31:09 pm
yeah woods looke beasty on that last problem, very malcolm smith.. would have been nice to see the worlds strongest fight it out on some narly steep stuff not balls on string and sideways double dynos
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: ducko on October 25, 2011, 12:29:38 am
ondra's technique with wood's strength, cool video all strong as hell!
Title: Ondrawad
Post by: tomtom on October 25, 2011, 07:31:12 am
Hes so far ahead of the pack, hes got to be capable of a Font 9a or a Gaskins 8c.

He looked the most clinical, but Woods looked much stronger than the rest - just didn't have the lank for a few problems. Comps are fun, but not sure you can draw many conclusions from several wads competing to make the least mistakes on problems well below their max.

They were given two hours the day before to work all the problems... No quarantine etc.. So quite different from normal comps.. An interesting format.. The competitors said they preferred it to regular format...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: r-man on October 25, 2011, 10:45:15 am
I know. Hence my comments.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: rehab21 on October 25, 2011, 12:56:34 pm
Most impressive thing for me is that he was competing against specialists who've been training almost solely for bouldering, while he's specifically avoided that while his body matured.

What's he going to be capable of this time next year after a bit of :weakbench:?    :dance1:
Jim
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: r-man on October 25, 2011, 01:53:43 pm
bouldering...he's specifically avoided that while his body matured.

Why do you say that? Ondra has been bouldering hard for years, both outdoors and in training.

Quote from: Ondra, march 2010
I train on couple of small bouldering walls, where I train endurance and bouldering power as well. I rarely climb indoor with rope because there are not good walls enough in the city.

http://www.baurock.ru/interview2/ondra_eng.htm (http://www.baurock.ru/interview2/ondra_eng.htm)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on October 26, 2011, 08:35:11 am
Ondra's sister climbs 8b+ (and his dad does an 8a):

http://www.czechclimbing.com/clanek.php?key=9752 (http://www.czechclimbing.com/clanek.php?key=9752)

(http://www.czechclimbing.com/fotos/fil10324.jpg)

I don't see the family resemblence myself.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: rehab21 on October 26, 2011, 11:19:53 am
 :oops:

I'll check my vague rememberings next time...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: simes on November 09, 2011, 08:05:09 am
Ondra's sister climbs 8b+ (and his dad does an 8a):

http://www.czechclimbing.com/clanek.php?key=9752 (http://www.czechclimbing.com/clanek.php?key=9752)

(http://www.czechclimbing.com/fotos/fil10324.jpg)

I don't see the family resemblence myself.

He got the climbing talent AND the looks!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: douglas on November 14, 2011, 09:20:59 am
Did 8C+ last week:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=64987 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=64987)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on November 14, 2011, 09:42:50 am
So possibly the hardest problem in the world is an unispiring looking, shitty, polished limestone traverse?

Bravo!!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: GCW on November 14, 2011, 09:50:23 am
So possibly the hardest problem in the world is an unispiring looking, shitty, polished limestone traverse Lakeland/ Lancastrian Roof?

Bravo!!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on November 14, 2011, 10:08:47 am
Hehehe there is a certain....harmony to it all ;)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on November 14, 2011, 04:43:15 pm
adorable little boy
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: ducko on November 14, 2011, 05:48:08 pm
 :strongbench:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Paul B on November 16, 2011, 06:19:35 pm
What were people saying about him and bouldering?

http://www.urbanclimbermag.com/411/news/ondras_first_v16_mccolls_first_v15/ (http://www.urbanclimbermag.com/411/news/ondras_first_v16_mccolls_first_v15/)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Pitcairn on November 17, 2011, 03:40:22 pm
Apparently he's super close to doing Goia.  Resting today.  More attempts tomorrow. 
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on November 17, 2011, 04:27:10 pm
Incidentally you can download a free ~10minutes HD movie of Christian Core working and climbing this from iClimb (http://www.iclimb.com/products/The-Real-Core.html)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on November 17, 2011, 04:49:31 pm
I think we have a clear verdict - he is quite good at bouldering.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on November 18, 2011, 08:45:57 am
Apparently he's super close to doing Goia.  Resting today.  More attempts tomorrow.

Be very interesting to see what grade he thinks this is.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on November 18, 2011, 10:36:08 am
he's already written in his 8a.nu scorecard that it's surely 8c+. he had done the stand start.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on November 18, 2011, 10:48:21 am
Oh yeah:

Quote from:  Sue Pollard on 8a.nu
15 mins, possibly 8A+ as Chris thought, sit is another level, 8C+ for sure
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on November 21, 2011, 01:56:50 pm
any news?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on December 06, 2011, 03:53:04 pm
any news?

Sounds as though he's now repeated Gioia (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=38874).
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on December 06, 2011, 04:15:39 pm
And confirmed it as 8C+ by the sound of things.

http://climbingnarc.com/2011/12/gioia-v16-repeated-confirmed-by-adam-ondra/ (http://climbingnarc.com/2011/12/gioia-v16-repeated-confirmed-by-adam-ondra/)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on December 06, 2011, 04:16:04 pm
That sounds about right.  :P
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on December 07, 2011, 06:13:32 am
dammit I'll only have the third ascent now. great effort and amazing inspiration by the Italian johnny g Christian c!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: andy popp on December 07, 2011, 07:55:36 am
I was somehow confusing this with Tonino 78 at Meschia - was that ever repeated in its entirety?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on December 07, 2011, 08:37:51 am
Yes julien nadiras and antoine vandepute (sp) did it I think
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: chris05 on December 07, 2011, 12:26:19 pm
Short interview here: http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=38876 (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=38876)

Apparently gioia took him 11 days and he could only manage one proper go a day..
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: ShortRound on December 07, 2011, 12:54:14 pm

Apparently gioia took him 11 days and he could only manage one proper go a day..

Punter.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: lukeyboy on December 07, 2011, 01:15:54 pm
Quote
What's next?
Well, first I'm off to do some bouldering in Fontainebleau


 :popcorn:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on December 07, 2011, 04:13:12 pm
Adam Ondra Gioia 8c+ Varazze.mp4 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k8YOj33U1Bg#ws)

/via Stubbs
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on December 07, 2011, 05:24:59 pm
That gives me wood.  It's crazy that it's only 8 moves but he could only have 1 go a day. pretty intense then! Nice to see Core there to see his problem getting repeated!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Baron on December 07, 2011, 07:02:47 pm
Holy shit
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: ianv on December 07, 2011, 07:39:34 pm
Quote
Apparently gioia took him 11 days and he could only manage one proper go a day..

 :o  Must be pretty hard then.

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Ethan on December 07, 2011, 08:36:55 pm
Some good pics here http://www.lezec.cz/clanek.php?key=9880&nazev=adam_ondra_-_gioia_8c+ (http://www.lezec.cz/clanek.php?key=9880&nazev=adam_ondra_-_gioia_8c+)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on December 08, 2011, 08:06:14 pm
from 8a:
"Directely after having done Gioia, Adam Ondra travelled to Fontainebleau where he during the first two days have flashed La Merveille, 8A+ and Fata Morgana, 8A. Further more he made quick work of Sideway Daze, 8B and Satan i Helvete, 8B."

no comment.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Pitcairn on December 08, 2011, 08:22:19 pm
Some good pics here http://www.lezec.cz/clanek.php?key=9880&nazev=adam_ondra_-_gioia_8c+ (http://www.lezec.cz/clanek.php?key=9880&nazev=adam_ondra_-_gioia_8c+)

The 5th pic down you can see the holds hes about to match on :)  I think this must be the worst hold of all time he refers to in his interview.  It looks another level.  Respect to Core too!
Title: Ondrawad
Post by: tomtom on December 08, 2011, 08:43:58 pm
from 8a:
"Directely after having done Gioia, Adam Ondra travelled to Fontainebleau where he during the first two days have flashed La Merveille, 8A+ and Fata Morgana, 8A. Further more he made quick work of Sideway Daze, 8B and Satan i Helvete, 8B."

no comment.

Willackers fb'd he'd done la Merveille a couple of days ago, wonder if he bumped into him (waddage to Will - lankster) ;)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: lukeyboy on December 08, 2011, 10:14:06 pm
from 8a:
"Directely after having done Gioia, Adam Ondra travelled to Fontainebleau where he during the first two days have flashed La Merveille, 8A+ and Fata Morgana, 8A. Further more he made quick work of Sideway Daze, 8B and Satan i Helvete, 8B."

no comment.

Willackers fb'd he'd done la Merveille a couple of days ago, wonder if he bumped into him (waddage to Will - lankster) ;)

Doesn't sound like Ondra was there for long!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: willackers on December 09, 2011, 03:28:09 pm
He turns up in the forest, flashes Mervaille then downgrades it! The swine! I would have loved to have seen him flash it, it's such an amazing line!

His tick list from his first day in the forest is mental!  :jaw:  :bow:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on December 11, 2011, 12:24:57 pm
Adam Ondra flashes Gecko Assis (http://27crags.com/teams/27-crags/blog/adam-ondra-flashes-gecko-assis-8b)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: IanP on December 11, 2011, 01:03:44 pm
His tick list from his first day in the forest is mental!  :jaw:  :bow:
Adam Ondra flashes Gecko Assis (http://27crags.com/teams/27-crags/blog/adam-ondra-flashes-gecko-assis-8b)

Also did Keops Assis (8b+) and L'Apparemment en départ bas (8b) yesterday it seems.  All a bit ridiculous, it'll be interesting to see what he does on the routing front next year now that he's not quite so weak!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on December 11, 2011, 05:10:41 pm
that's absolutely ridiculous. not only for the grade, but also for the style of the climbing, the subtlety and precision required, and all the rest. it's no line of crimps on a blank wall, it's THE FUCKING GECK!!!!!!!
 :jaw:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on December 11, 2011, 06:01:40 pm
Things are getting silly now. Words don't really do it justice.Who says he doesn't know what 8c+ is. Nuts!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: moose on December 11, 2011, 07:33:33 pm
I live in fear of Ondra getting properly mad and crimping something so damn hard he creates a singularity.   If those chaps at CERN were really serious about atom smashing they'd just fasten their targets to a nasty piece of polished limestone. 

The dirt under his fingernails: orphaned Higg's bosons. 

Those neutrinos that went faster than light: they were running away from Ondra.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: andy popp on December 11, 2011, 08:14:36 pm
Crikey.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Andy F on December 11, 2011, 08:21:08 pm
Ondra - the Chuck Norris of the climbing world.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: ianv on December 11, 2011, 09:50:49 pm
Puts Gioia totally into perspective as well. 11 days for Ondra to repeat it, then he goes up to Font walks up all sorts of hard stuff.

Must be the first repeat where Ondra was unsure of the outcome, awesome effort from Gore :bow:

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: AB on December 11, 2011, 10:02:40 pm
When Ondra does a pull up it's the worlds which goes down...  :sorry: couldn't resist!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on December 12, 2011, 09:04:16 am
Mind blowing.

awesome effort from Gore :bow:


Chris?  :P
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on December 12, 2011, 09:49:24 am
Jerry?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Pitcairn on December 12, 2011, 11:11:52 am
Al.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on December 12, 2011, 11:28:48 am
Vidal?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: andy popp on December 12, 2011, 11:47:04 am
Sassoon?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on December 12, 2011, 11:47:48 am
don Bennett?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: metal arms on December 12, 2011, 01:09:29 pm
blimey Guv'nor?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Palomides on December 13, 2011, 08:38:20 am
Gecko assis

(not sure that the image linking will work - dismaying pics and french article are here: http://www.kairn.com/article.html?id=2325 (http://www.kairn.com/article.html?id=2325))

(http://www.kairn.com/images/articles.img?id=7384)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on December 13, 2011, 09:14:55 am
the article is shocking.
we are witnessing something historical with Ondra.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: dave k on December 13, 2011, 10:15:47 am
the article is shocking.
we are witnessing something historical with Ondra.

I got that impression, but my French is virtually non existant.

I got 8B+ FLASH of gecko assis!!

Did he fail on Duel? (Surely not)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on December 13, 2011, 10:26:41 am
I got that impression, but my French is virtually non existant.

Try this (http://translate.google.co.uk/translate?sl=fr&tl=en&js=n&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&layout=2&eotf=1&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.kairn.com%2Farticle.html%3Fid%3D2325).  Its not perfect but certainly better than I could have done.

In future just go to http://translate.google.co.uk/ (http://translate.google.co.uk/) and paste in the address of the page you want to translate, select appropriate languages and hey presto.



I got 8B+ FLASH of gecko assis!!

Did he fail on Duel? (Surely not)

Looks like he didn't do Duel, but tally up what he'd done earlier in the day, and the fact that it was getting dark and he you might not be so surprised (although perhaps there is a hint of sarcasm in your post?)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Rocksteady on December 13, 2011, 11:07:34 am
This is getting ri-goddamn-diculous!

I am excited for when Ondra runs out of hard stuff to repeat and projects his own lines a bit more. That really will push the boundaries of the possible.

My favourite line from the translation:

"As any climber obtuse, I think back to the previous day where I could free myself. The balls."

Compelling stuff ;)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: metal arms on December 13, 2011, 11:33:34 am
He's a monster :strongbench:


My favourite line from the translation:

"As any climber obtuse, I think back to the previous day where I could free myself. The balls."

Compelling stuff ;)

I'm having that as my signature ;D
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: lukeyboy on December 13, 2011, 12:51:53 pm
I am excited for when Ondra runs out of hard stuff to repeat

I don't think you'll have to wait long
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on December 13, 2011, 01:22:54 pm
He's proposed 8B for Gecko Assis on 8a.nu........  :worms:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: ianv on December 13, 2011, 02:33:47 pm
"Did he fail on Duel? (Surely not)"

Possibly because (quotes from throughout the article and not just regarding Duel):

 « Beaux quartiers » 2 goes Meme avec une sale bruine qui se lève en arrivant à Isatis.

Even with the horrendous mist which came down as we arrived at Isatis

« L’insoutenable légèreté de l’être » failed flash Les conditions sont atrocement humides. Le réta, très sale, est infaisable. Il abandonnera peu de temps après. Il commence à faire un temps pas génial.

The conditions are atrociously damp. The ??, very dirty and infeasible. He gave up soon afterwards as the weather was beginning to become very unpleasant.

<Karma> gave up after several attempts (didnt want to damage the finishing hold) Marchons encore dans l’humidité. Quelques hectomètres plus loin, au sommet de la butte de Cuisinière, ça ne s’est pas vraiment calmé. Je n’ai jamais vu le bloc de « Karma » aussi vert. Les premiers essais du tchèque serviront à sécher le grès qui est en train de se gorger d’eau.

Walking on in the wet to the summit of the butte de cuisiniere, things had not improved. I have never seen the boulder of Karma greener. His first attemps only served to dry the rock which was dripping with water.


 <Misécorde> En vain, après 2 essais, les prises de départ sont complètement gluantes. Ingrimpable malgré le brossage

Failure. After 2 tries the starting holds are totally soaking and unclimbable despite brushing.

<Duel> Après un gros quart d’heure d’essais acharnés, les grattons du crux sont humides et Adam se résout à l’évidence. Le bloc n’est pas à conditions et il fait nuit.

Adam accepted the inevitable after 15 mins of failed attempts. The holds on the crux are wet, the boulder is not in condition and it is dark.

How he managed anything on such a shitty day is pretty impressive, let alone a 8b+ flash  :o Give him his due though, he's keen.

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: ali k on December 13, 2011, 03:23:11 pm
F8c+ onsight...check.
font8b+ flash...check.

All set for the flash on Biographie this summer then!  :bounce:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on December 13, 2011, 05:18:08 pm
I like the way he did Beaux Quartiers first go after Gecko but didn't claim the flash on that. Others i can think of would have taken that
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on December 13, 2011, 05:23:56 pm
He's proposed 8B for Gecko Assis on 8a.nu........  :worms:

Maybe Dave Barrans was right all along!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: finbarrr on December 13, 2011, 05:54:32 pm
Ondra claims Karma on his 8a...
in the wet
nice surprise, thanks to that google translation
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: ianv on December 13, 2011, 06:12:44 pm
Reread the bit about karma, it was the sit start he didn't manage.  :smartass: :sorry:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Palomides on December 15, 2011, 01:08:10 pm

« L’insoutenable légèreté de l’être » failed flash Les conditions sont atrocement humides. Le réta, très sale, est infaisable. Il abandonnera peu de temps après. Il commence à faire un temps pas génial.

The conditions are atrociously damp. The ??, very dirty and infeasible. He gave up soon afterwards as the weather was beginning to become very unpleasant.


"réta" is short for rétablissement, and usually means mantle (but can sometimes mean a topout or turning the lip of a roof).
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: lukeh on December 18, 2011, 10:56:43 am
Alexander Huber about Adam Ondra (http://vimeo.com/33704646)

So, The Wizard's Apprentice. Soon.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Clart on December 18, 2011, 07:28:30 pm
I wish they'd hurry up about it, was hoping to watch it over Christmas to spare myself from Xmas TV dross. They've been on about releasing the film for ages. I assumed the delay was because Ondra keeps doing ground breaking ascents that have to be included.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: lukeyboy on December 18, 2011, 08:00:47 pm
So, The Wizard's Apprentice. Soon.

He's finally embracing his Hogwarts identity then?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on December 19, 2011, 09:58:05 am
Episode 2 is going to be called The Maplins Years.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: a dense loner on December 19, 2011, 09:49:05 pm
obviously ondra's a machine but when he says gecko assis is 8b and karma is 8a etc etc, these problems have been around years and have seen quite a few repeats. enough to have the grade confirmed by other guys at the top of their game, obviously ondra's is the big top but i digress. apart from that inconsequential matter the guy is absolutely fucking unbelievable.
hubers eye's are scary. he's a monster while we're at it
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on December 19, 2011, 09:51:13 pm
I think Dave Mason called Karma 8a too
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: a dense loner on December 19, 2011, 10:09:51 pm
yeh nice one, tall guy with gangly arms thinks a long moves easy.

back to ondrawad :chair:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on December 20, 2011, 05:13:35 pm
yeh nice one, tall guy with gangly arms thinks a long moves easy.

back to ondrawad :chair:

 i thought you were talking about Ondrawad
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on December 21, 2011, 12:14:40 pm
Now't new, but a video about his ascent of Tough Enough in Madagascar

People_Adam Ondra e Pietro Dal Pra in Madagascar, 2010 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W-Dj1I7f6js#ws)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Clart on January 02, 2012, 09:38:33 am
Was hunting around for the Ondra film, which is due to be released today (where's the not holding my breath emicon?) and stumbled upon this:

Adam Ondra climbing @ Kalymnos - episode 1 (Part 1 of "Impossible" LOVE ? ;-) (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pGsGKsaS2E8#ws)

I'm sure it must have been posted up before but I missed it so I thought I'd stick it up again. There are 9 episodes of Ondra onsighting 8bs like he's warming up and an onsight of an 8c+.

Merry 2012 and all that.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on January 05, 2012, 10:35:54 am
Interview (http://stockholmsklattring.se/intervjuer/adam-ondra/)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on January 12, 2012, 01:45:37 pm
The routes he's not done...yet (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=39015)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on January 12, 2012, 01:47:47 pm
Ondra's list is a fair bit shorter then mine... And still to make it seem longer he had to include a 9a he failed to flash...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on January 12, 2012, 02:10:09 pm
Quote
I didn't do one move, a match of the underclings where Scottish climber Malcolm Smith could even chalk up for the camera of Heinz Zak! A year later, early one morning on the last day of my England trip, I tried hard and could indeed feel a significant difference thanks to some time spent on the campus board, but despite being close I failed. Strong Britons!

 ;D
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on January 12, 2012, 03:06:40 pm
Good list. I too have failed to climb all of those!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Baldy on January 12, 2012, 03:11:45 pm
I like to think I am halfway towards the flash on most of those by virtue of having watched the videos.

That's how it works, right?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Clart on January 12, 2012, 11:17:14 pm
The Wizard's Apprentice is finally available. Been waiting for this for a while:

http://www.adamondrafilm.com/en/news (http://www.adamondrafilm.com/en/news)

Now whether to watch it now in 720P then get the HD version in a weeks time or hold out to watch it in HD  :-\

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on January 13, 2012, 12:10:10 am
The Wizard's Apprentice is finally available. Been waiting for this for a while:

http://www.adamondrafilm.com/en/news (http://www.adamondrafilm.com/en/news)

Now whether to watch it now in 720P then get the HD version in a weeks time or hold out to watch it in HD  :-\

I get a malware detection going through to pay using Opera-11.60.1185 , but it does redirect to a 'PayPal .com' site:-\
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Clart on January 14, 2012, 12:34:32 pm
The Wizard's Apprentice is finally available. Been waiting for this for a while:

http://www.adamondrafilm.com/en/news (http://www.adamondrafilm.com/en/news)

Now whether to watch it now in 720P then get the HD version in a weeks time or hold out to watch it in HD  :-\

I get a malware detection going through to pay using Opera-11.60.1185 , but it does redirect to a 'PayPal .com' site:-\

Worry ye not, paid my money, got the film and can conifirm that it's proper bo, got me psyched to the tits.

I would recommend using a down load manager such as  freedownloadmanager (http://www.freedownloadmanager.org/download.htm) when downloading as it hangs a bit when using normal browsers.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on January 14, 2012, 06:18:47 pm
Cool, good to hear,  :2thumbsup:

(Let us know if you get any untoward transactions though).
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on January 15, 2012, 10:49:04 am
Great film!  Golpe de Estado looks difficult.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on January 18, 2012, 07:30:40 am
Video #1: BD athlete Adam Ondra bouldering in Fontainebleau, France (http://vimeo.com/35171521)

Rock & Ice Review (http://rockandice.com/news/1775-adam-ondras-tantrums)

Have to say if its accurate that so much is already available on t'net its rather disappointing, and already agree with the sentiment that its rather crap missing out the last year (although thats likely deliberate and will see the release of 'Vol 2').
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on January 18, 2012, 08:03:18 am
The film in one sentence: "We follow young Adam Ondra as he is trying to break in to the 9b grade". 
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: iain on January 18, 2012, 08:21:42 am
 
The film in one sentence: "We follow young Adam Ondra as he is trying to break in to the 9b grade". 

Yup. That was more rant than review, there is truth there but it's way over the top. 75% is a gross exaggeration. Maybe my Ondra stalking allopathy up to scratch but what I had seen didn't detract from the film, and the significant moments were all new to me.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on January 18, 2012, 08:24:10 am
Jamie Emerson managed to work up the energy (hardly surprising) to answer the R&I review/rant
http://www.b3bouldering.com/2012/01/18/adam-ondra-movie/ (http://www.b3bouldering.com/2012/01/18/adam-ondra-movie/)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: iain on January 18, 2012, 08:58:32 am
stalking allopathy up to scratch

My phone is too clever for me, no idea how it came up with allopathy. That should be "stalking skills aren't up to scratch"

The Emerson review is more like it.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on January 18, 2012, 09:06:57 am
Video #1: BD athlete Adam Ondra bouldering in Fontainebleau, France

2:25 - he slips off and thus fails to flash L'Angle Allain LHS

....I flashed L'Angle Allain LHS, in the hot sun!

I've burnt Adam Ondra off  :w00t:

Edit okay the same applies to Marie Rose. But that's gash and worth falling off.

Nice video. I like his vibe and the footage of the hard problems. I winched with frustration when he came off Sideways Daze!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: hobblingfool on January 18, 2012, 09:19:44 am
The Rock and Ice review is utter crap. I agree it would have been nice to have the film sooner but the second half of the review seems to be some personal attack on Ondra? The lad is 18, lives in a bit of bubble compared to most and is the best climber in the world; if that level of self belief and refusal to accept defeat means he screeches a bit then so what? Thought it was a massively inspiring film, gone straight to the top of my list. Its brilliant that we have someone pushing the levels of what is possible and can witness it. Especially as he seems like a really nice lad.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on January 18, 2012, 09:34:29 am
 :agree:

The rock and ice chap seems to be lusting after a Ondra does King Lines type thing. I'm very glad it isn't anything like that.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: ShortRound on January 18, 2012, 09:38:28 am

Pathetic review from Rock and Ice. What made it funny was his complete lack of awareness of the harry potter - wizard's apprentice link because he kept banging on about it reinforcing the fact he missed the reference.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on January 18, 2012, 10:00:41 am
Not interested in the crap about tantrums/failing to get wizard reference but the point that a fair proportion (even if not the stated 70%) has already appeared online and the huge delay and missing out of the last years activity is certainly a negative from my perspective, but I can't comment fully myself as I've not watched it yet.

Probably not one that will stop me buying it though (hopefully in hard copy for backup as well as HD format).
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on January 18, 2012, 10:51:32 am
Mr Bisharat has probably access to a different internet than I have. An internet where 70% of the film was already online. (Of course, I could get the film for "free" using a torrent-site, but that's not the point the reviewer was trying to make I think?)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Rocksteady on January 18, 2012, 12:01:46 pm
I'm psyched to see this film. I love watching Ondra's 'fits'. My mate and I saw him fall off an attempt at Chaxi Raxi last year at Oliana and have been making weird screeching noises when we fall ever since.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Stubbs on January 18, 2012, 12:21:23 pm
Ondra hissy fit: the new Sharma shout?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Muenchener on January 18, 2012, 01:37:06 pm
I'm only halfway through and finding it very interesting. I only recognised a couple of bits from the net, such as "beautiful Markus Bock's Heilige Graal", of which the footage in the film is only a small snippet of what was on the net a while back. Didn't bother me at all. I like the attempt to make a storyline out of it and not just a series of shots of a lanky kid pulling on small holds and screaming.

The screaming didn't bother me either. Any amount of screaming is better than saying "take" like I do at the slightest hint of fear or lactic acid.

(I tried to resist taking the piss out of Czech filmmaker's English but I couldn't: "beautiful Markus Bock"? Hmm. Not to my taste at all (http://www.up-climbing.com/en/news/rock/two-9a--waiting-for-brno))
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on January 18, 2012, 04:29:22 pm
That's genius, only in Font would it be possible to fall off a 6a then flash a 8b+  ;D ;D ;D
Only watched half the Ondra film, a lot of it may be online but i like seeing Ondra in full seige mode like on Marina Superstar and you don't get this in short online vids.  It's nice to see him going through the redpoint stress that we all get. That route is immense too!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on January 18, 2012, 04:54:53 pm
R & I review bizzarely scathing. Probably to generate more hits
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Tiresias on January 19, 2012, 11:27:37 am
Am I missing something? That R+I review is hilarious!
 :wall:

Haven't had a chance to see it yet as I went out climbing this week instead of going to work.

Can't wait though.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: mrjonathanr on January 19, 2012, 11:41:57 am
I don't get the Sorceror's Apprentice reference. Are there lots of brooms and buckets?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: ShortRound on January 19, 2012, 11:59:47 am
 :shrug: I thought it was because he looks like Harry Potter?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on January 19, 2012, 12:13:19 pm
I don't get the Sorceror's Apprentice reference. Are there lots of brooms and buckets?

Showing your age there......  ;)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: cheque on January 19, 2012, 12:15:49 pm
Am I missing something? That R+I review is hilarious!
 :wall:

Yeah, Rock and Ice's truly crap website organisation makes it really hard to tell, but the article is from the 'Tuesday Night Bouldering' (http://rockandice.com/articles/tuesday-night-bouldering) column: more editorial opinion piece rather than serious review.

I finally got a replacement lamp for my projector this week so a screening of the Ondra film is a top priority for the weekend. God knows what my neighbours will think is going on...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: tomtom on January 19, 2012, 12:30:37 pm
I don't get the Sorceror's Apprentice reference. Are there lots of brooms and buckets?

Showing your age there......  ;)

Isnt it a reference to Cagney and Lacey? ;)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on January 19, 2012, 01:46:45 pm
I don't get the Sorceror's Apprentice reference. Are there lots of brooms and buckets?

Showing your age there......  ;)

What? Isn't it a reference to Goethe's “Der Zauberlehrling?”
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: mrjonathanr on January 19, 2012, 01:54:59 pm
Goethe,  Paul Dukas and Walt Disney (don't you love Google?). But what has a callow youth over-reaching himself and needing an adult to the rescue got to do with Ondra? He IS the sorceror, surely?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on January 19, 2012, 02:55:34 pm
As Short Round said it's because of his resemblence to Su Pollard (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,2309.msg204386.html#msg204386) Harry Potter.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: tomtom on January 19, 2012, 03:24:54 pm
As Short Round said it's because of his resemblence to Su Pollard (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,2309.msg204386.html#msg204386) Harry Potter.

yes, but who is Harry Potter? ;)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on January 19, 2012, 03:49:12 pm
That kid who looks like Daniel Radcliffe.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on January 19, 2012, 10:22:02 pm
wish i could get Ondras screeching as a ring tone!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Clart on January 20, 2012, 09:13:23 am
wish i could get Ondras screeching as a ring tone!

1. Copy some Ondra audio to your phone (or use a sound recorder to record it from a video clip).
2. Get an app not dissimilar to ring tone maker pro.
3. Cut the audio file up to your tastes and you're done.

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jim on January 20, 2012, 09:20:10 am
 :slap:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on January 20, 2012, 09:22:28 am
Not everyone has phones that feature apps though.  :slap:

Alternatively you could use Audacity (http://audacity.sourceforge.net/) to record the audio from the video and chop it up, then copy to your phone if it permits and set it as the ring tone.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on January 20, 2012, 09:26:52 am
Not everyone has phones that feature apps though.  :slap:


WHAT!!!?? It's 2012 for fuck's sake!!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on January 20, 2012, 10:52:51 am
I have a phone with a numeric keypad :D. I use it to phone people and sent texts.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on January 20, 2012, 10:58:56 am
Yeah fair enough Fiend. Must be a bastard to carry around though.

(http://www.bitterwallet.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/old_mobile_phones_001.jpg)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: GCW on January 20, 2012, 11:01:54 am
I have a phone with a numeric keypad :D. I use it to phone people and sent texts.

Do you text in binary?
Title: Ondrawad
Post by: tomtom on January 20, 2012, 01:56:23 pm
01001001 01100110 00100000 01111001 01101111 01110101 00100000 01110111 01101111 01110010 01101011 01100101 01100100 00100000 01101111 01110101 01110100 00100000 01110111 01101000 01100001 01110100 00100000 01110100 01101000 01101001 01110011 00100000 01110011 01100001 01111001 01110011 00100000 01110100 01101000 01100101 01101110 00100000 01111001 01101111 01110101 00100111 01110010 01100101 00100000 01100001 01110011 00100000 01110011 01100001 01100100 00100000 01100001 01110011 00100000 01101101 01100101 00100001 00100000 00111010 00101001
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on January 20, 2012, 02:10:09 pm
01001001 01100110 00100000 01111001 01101111 01110101 00100000 01110111 01101111 01110010 01101011 01100101 01100100 00100000 01101111 01110101 01110100 00100000 01110111 01101000 01100001 01110100 00100000 01110100 01101000 01101001 01110011 00100000 01110011 01100001 01111001 01110011 00100000 01110100 01101000 01100101 01101110 00100000 01111001 01101111 01110101 00100111 01110010 01100101 00100000 01100001 01110011 00100000 01110011 01100001 01100100 00100000 01100001 01110011 00100000 01101101 01100101 00100001 00100000 00111010 00101001

I'm as sad as you  :)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: GCW on January 20, 2012, 02:33:36 pm
I am not as sad as you, I just know about ASCII conversion   :P
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on January 24, 2012, 09:24:37 am
Hot Shot Part Deux....

Video #2: BD athlete Adam Ondra bouldering in Fontainebleau, France (http://vimeo.com/35329118)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on January 24, 2012, 10:58:45 am
Great. Bring on Gecko flash!  :w00t: :w00t:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on January 24, 2012, 11:01:55 am
The Gecko Assis flash is on another clip posted somewhere on here that I don't have time to look for at the moment......

slackers?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on January 24, 2012, 11:13:24 am
Too busy (don't remember seeing it myself either), probably be in part 3 from Black Diamond I'd imagine.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on January 30, 2012, 05:26:02 pm
Video #3: BD athlete Adam Ondra bouldering in Fontainebleau, France (http://vimeo.com/35330426)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nick B on January 30, 2012, 05:34:03 pm
Now THAT is quality. Enjoyed that video far more than the movie.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: tomtom on January 30, 2012, 07:00:27 pm
Thats superb. Gripping... he really really gave it some beans on that move... :) Superb.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: iain on January 30, 2012, 07:40:37 pm

Just amazing  :bow:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on January 30, 2012, 08:04:23 pm
Awesome.....truly deserving of waddage!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on January 30, 2012, 08:54:40 pm
it doesn't get much better than that does it?
Ondra is fantastic, because he screams, he laughs, he crushes. I don't know what is more rewarding in the video: the flash in itself or how happy he is.
seeing him so happy on top is what really psyches me up!!!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: tomtom on January 30, 2012, 08:59:52 pm
it doesn't get much better than that does it?
Ondra is fantastic, because he screams, he laughs, he crushes. I don't know what is more rewarding in the video: the flash in itself or how happy he is.
seeing him so happy on top is what really psyches me up!!!

I love it how he does the hard move (I guess) gets the hold on the lip and then does what we all do - think its all over then has to pull himself to gether to get the last couple of moves... Its great that he's so natural...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on January 30, 2012, 10:10:10 pm
Bloody amazing!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on January 31, 2012, 08:57:48 am
 :o

From the Black Diamond Journal (http://)...

Quote from: Adam Ondra
After restday, we woke up into still and foggy conditions, but it was obvious that the fog must diminish soon and the sun will show up on the sky. Warm up in Bas Cuvier was an incredible joy, doing the first 6A (Marie Rose) and 7A (Joker) in a sunny morning was a true pleasure. Kheops Assis was ticked off in a couple of tries. I went to L'Apparemment low start, an 8B in Apremont sector. This is truly incredible problem with insane typical-Font topoput. I had some problems, especially wet footholds at the beginning, but after an hour it was done. Just next to it, there was one more 8B, La Pierre Philosophale by Fred Nicole. A roof with hard fingerlocks, it was too much for the end of the day, Jacky was true claiming that this is one of the hardest roofs in Font.

 One last day. My goal for the season was to flash an 8B+, but within autumn having too many projects, I abandoned this idea and gave it up for the year. But one problem came on my mind, Gecko. My friend Andrej Chrastina told me about it 5 years ago, when I did bouldering very rarely. Andrej was persuading me to go to Font to try this problem, saying that it would fit my style very well. A last day of climbing of 2011... why not give it a try to fulfill my goal of the year? All the other goals for the year I had already managed to fulfill (excluding competitions).

 The day didn't start in the best way: after cleaning the gite and getting lost and searching for the bloc in the wood from a different parking, we arrived in the sector a little while after noon, already tired after the beginning of the day and after the climbing the previous day. I took some warm up, not feeling very well, but having a lot of psych thanks to cold conditions. I tried to remember the video from the previous night, asked my friends to clean the holds that I couldn't reach from the pads and I set off. First two moves were OK, then it was very hard to move left heel to the left. I was very close to falling, feeling that I was loosing a balance for a moment, but somehow I stayed on the rock. There is a one thing that I really love in climbing: heel hooking. And the rest of the problem is about awkward heelhooks and I felt pretty solid. The last hard movement I shrieked, but I was almost sure I would do it. I felt unstoppable at that very moment.

 Concrening the grade I am not very sure, I would love to claim that I flashed an 8B+, but I am awkward to admit that I could climb that well. Considering the effort and how (not) fresh I felt, I can't agree with 8B+, at least for my height. Or was I really in such a good shape, especially when all the other repetitions had confirmed the grade of 8B+? I wish I were, but my own subjective feeling tells me something else.

 The rest of the day we spent in Cuisiniere, where I had to climb Karma, the world-famous 8A. And despite humidity, mission completed. Duel, another famous 8A, seemed like an ideal end of the year, but I had to admit defeat in that humidity. Doesn't matter, the year 2011 was successful enough to make me feel satisfied and this trip will be definitely immense source of motivation for the next year.

 Font is an incredible place and the beauty of climbing there was even better than I had hoped. It is definitely, the best bouldering area I have ever visited.

Quote
After restday, we woke up into still and foggy conditions, but it was obvious that the fog must diminish soon and the sun will show up on the sky. Warm up in Bas Cuvier was an incredible joy, doing the first 6A (Marie Rose) and 7A (Joker) in a sunny morning was a true pleasure. Kheops Assis was ticked off in a couple of tries. I went to L'Apparemment low start, an 8B in Apremont sector. This is truly incredible problem with insane typical-Font topoput. I had some problems, especially wet footholds at the beginning, but after an hour it was done. Just next to it, there was one more 8B, La Pierre Philosophale by Fred Nicole. A roof with hard fingerlocks, it was too much for the end of the day, Jacky was true claiming that this is one of the hardest roofs in Font.

 One last day. My goal for the season was to flash an 8B+, but within autumn having too many projects, I abandoned this idea and gave it up for the year. But one problem came on my mind, Gecko. My friend Andrej Chrastina told me about it 5 years ago, when I did bouldering very rarely. Andrej was persuading me to go to Font to try this problem, saying that it would fit my style very well. A last day of climbing of 2011... why not give it a try to fulfill my goal of the year? All the other goals for the year I had already managed to fulfill (excluding competitions).

 The day didn't start in the best way: after cleaning the gite and getting lost and searching for the bloc in the wood from a different parking, we arrived in the sector a little while after noon, already tired after the beginning of the day and after the climbing the previous day. I took some warm up, not feeling very well, but having a lot of psych thanks to cold conditions. I tried to remember the video from the previous night, asked my friends to clean the holds that I couldn't reach from the pads and I set off. First two moves were OK, then it was very hard to move left heel to the left. I was very close to falling, feeling that I was loosing a balance for a moment, but somehow I stayed on the rock. There is a one thing that I really love in climbing: heel hooking. And the rest of the problem is about awkward heelhooks and I felt pretty solid. The last hard movement I shrieked, but I was almost sure I would do it. I felt unstoppable at that very moment.

 Concrening the grade I am not very sure, I would love to claim that I flashed an 8B+, but I am awkward to admit that I could climb that well. Considering the effort and how (not) fresh I felt, I can't agree with 8B+, at least for my height. Or was I really in such a good shape, especially when all the other repetitions had confirmed the grade of 8B+? I wish I were, but my own subjective feeling tells me something else.

 The rest of the day we spent in Cuisiniere, where I had to climb Karma, the world-famous 8A. And despite humidity, mission completed. Duel, another famous 8A, seemed like an ideal end of the year, but I had to admit defeat in that humidity. Doesn't matter, the year 2011 was successful enough to make me feel satisfied and this trip will be definitely immense source of motivation for the next year.

 Font is an incredible place and the beauty of climbing there was even better than I had hoped. It is definitely, the best bouldering area I have ever visited.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Plattsy on January 31, 2012, 09:10:37 am
Waddage to Ondra and punterage to Slackline.  ;)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: moose on January 31, 2012, 09:32:44 am
Christ that boy's good.  I've long been reconciled with being shit because I lack any natural talent; there's the comfort that there's not much I can do about it.  But then I see Ondra climb and realise that I don't try hard enough either, and there's no real excuse for that. 
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on January 31, 2012, 09:41:07 am
I agree completely. He gives it all, and that's great and an example for us all.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on January 31, 2012, 10:34:09 am
 :oops: Got a bit carried away there.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Johnny Brown on January 31, 2012, 11:59:34 am
Quote
The day didn't start in the best way: after cleaning the gite and getting lost and searching for the bloc in the wood from a different parking, we arrived in the sector a little while after noon, already tired after the beginning of the day

Good to know he has some of the same hassles as the rest of us too.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on January 31, 2012, 12:29:28 pm
With such a display of power, class and focus, all they are capable of doing on 8a is arguing if it was a real flash, because he touched the holds. Sad People.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on January 31, 2012, 12:41:52 pm
I liked the sheer fun & enjoyment he showed in all three videos of how much he liked Fontainebleau.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: tomtom on January 31, 2012, 12:45:14 pm
I liked the sheer fun & enjoyment he showed in all three videos of how much he liked Fontainebleau.

Ondra, Ondra, so good Slackers quoted it twice...   ;)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on January 31, 2012, 12:48:32 pm
I liked the sheer fun & enjoyment he showed in all three videos of how much he liked Fontainebleau.

Ondra, Ondra, so good Slackers quoted it twice...   ;)

I wonder if there is a book for dummies on how to quote on BBforums?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on January 31, 2012, 12:50:18 pm
I liked the sheer fun & enjoyment he showed in all three videos of how much he liked Fontainebleau.
Yeah! The Skype interviews were really nice, to see someone who despite all the big numbers is just excited about doing good bouldering. I like that almost as much as your double quote, but not quite.

Moose, trying hard is a good point.....but it can happen at any level!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: tomtom on January 31, 2012, 01:33:32 pm
I liked the sheer fun & enjoyment he showed in all three videos of how much he liked Fontainebleau.

Ondra, Ondra, so good Slackers quoted it twice...   ;)

I wonder if there is a book for dummies on how to quote on BBforums?

:) nope, but theres a market ;)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on January 31, 2012, 04:52:07 pm
I liked the sheer fun & enjoyment he showed in all three videos of how much he liked Fontainebleau.
:) nope, but theres a market ;)
Quote from: Jaspersharpe
Ondra, Ondra, so good Slackers quoted it twice...   ;)

Don't be ridiculous, it's easy.


I wonder if there is a book for dummies on how to quote on BBforums?

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Muenchener on February 04, 2012, 11:53:21 am
Stevie H just posted an interview (http://steviehaston.blogspot.com/2012/02/prince-who-would-be-king-story-by.html) on his blog (but says it's a repost of a magazine article from last year, so apologies if everybody else has already seen it)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: iwasmexican on February 04, 2012, 12:38:00 pm
Video #3: BD athlete Adam Ondra bouldering in Fontainebleau, France (http://vimeo.com/35330426)

anyone know the name of the song thats on when hes climbing actually? there is a tracklist at the bottom but that song doesnt seem to be in there...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on February 06, 2012, 01:25:10 pm
Old now, and I've probably already seen it & forgotten, but Ondra at Raven Tor on Revelations and Chimes of Freedom

Climax.tv spotlight on Adam Ondra at Raven Tor (http://vimeo.com/13384269)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Muenchener on March 12, 2012, 07:11:47 am
New interview up on Peter Beal's blog (http://www.mountainsandwater.com/2012/03/interview-with-adam-ondra.html)


Quote
What is so nice about climbing is that you don't have to be necessarily the strongest to climb the best. You can always find tons of climbers who are physically able to climb really hard, but don't climb efficiently.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on March 12, 2012, 10:13:05 am
Nice interview, nice to see his passion coming across.

Not sure that video is the most interesting of Adam, though. I still think the 3 from Fontainbleau are the most awesome.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on March 23, 2012, 04:42:25 pm
9a on Czech sandstone in the Elbe valley. Bolted ground up of course
To tu ještě nebylo XIa AF Adam Ondra - Dolní Žleb (http://www.dailymotion.com/video/xmgq8x)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: andy popp on March 23, 2012, 06:31:56 pm
That's a bit mad.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: chris_j_s on March 24, 2012, 11:03:11 am
This one shows the successful redpoint.

Adam Ondra climb, To tu je&scaron;tě nebylo XIIb, Labské údolí. (http://vimeo.com/38816685)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: ghisino on March 24, 2012, 01:45:00 pm
9a on Czech sandstone in the Elbe valley. Bolted ground up of course
http://www.dailymotion.com/video/xmgq8x (http://www.dailymotion.com/video/xmgq8x)

on one side it's really cool, on the other it makes me curious about the local bolting ethics and usual drilling systems (ie if it is usual to drill two small "aid bolts" to get a secure stance before going for the big one).
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: finbarrr on March 24, 2012, 07:29:02 pm
a cheat stone... really?!?!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Muenchener on March 24, 2012, 09:35:19 pm
on one side it's really cool, on the other it makes me curious about the local bolting ethics and usual drilling systems (ie if it is usual to drill two small "aid bolts" to get a secure stance before going for the big one).

Never climbed in the area, but from what I recall reading about it yes, that's the normal technique.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Stubbs on March 25, 2012, 12:28:24 am
a cheat stone... really?!?!

It's hardly a pile is it? look how boulder strewn the floor is.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: habrich on March 25, 2012, 05:56:57 am
9a on Czech sandstone in the Elbe valley. Bolted ground up of course
http://www.dailymotion.com/video/xmgq8x (http://www.dailymotion.com/video/xmgq8x)
on one side it's really cool, on the other it makes me curious about the local bolting ethics and usual drilling systems (ie if it is usual to drill two small "aid bolts" to get a secure stance before going for the big one).
Yes, my understanding is also that that is the normal process. However I believe the initial small bolt has to be placed 100% on lead without skyhooks etc ... which must be pretty extreme on a 9a! Also keep in mind that the final bolt is a huge fucker, not some wee 10mm thing as at normal sports crags. I also recall that there are some bizarre and scary additional rules: first bolt has to be at 10m, bolts have to be spaced 4m ... something like that (I forget the exact detail).

On a totally unrelated topic, I was climbing with a Czech guy on Friday who comes from Brno, Ondra's home town. He had a pair of Miura's that he claimed (plausibly) were Ondra's cast-offs. I put my feet in them briefly. The next day I sent a very long standing local project, possible also a new grade level for me. Magic ...   :w00t:
Title: Ondrawad
Post by: Oldmanmatt on March 25, 2012, 08:30:13 am


On a totally unrelated topic, I was climbing with a Czech guy on Friday who comes from Brno, Ondra's home town. He had a pair of Miura's that he claimed (plausibly) were Ondra's cast-offs. I put my feet in them briefly. The next day I sent a very long standing local project, possible also a new grade level for me. Magic ...   :w00t:

Were they Ruby Red?

And did you click your heels and say "There's no grade like 9a, there's no grade like 9a"...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Muenchener on March 25, 2012, 06:18:38 pm
I believe the initial small bolt has to be placed 100% on lead without skyhooks etc

Ever tried a skyhook on sandstone? I have. It cut straight through and dumped me on my arse (fortunately I was trying it out at ground level before embarking on the actual nefarious plan)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: habrich on March 25, 2012, 06:52:09 pm


On a totally unrelated topic, I was climbing with a Czech guy on Friday who comes from Brno, Ondra's home town. He had a pair of Miura's that he claimed (plausibly) were Ondra's cast-offs. I put my feet in them briefly. The next day I sent a very long standing local project, possible also a new grade level for me. Magic ...   :w00t:

Were they Ruby Red?

And did you click your heels and say "There's no grade like 9a, there's no grade like 9a"...
Nice. Had to google that.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: shark on March 25, 2012, 08:09:07 pm


On a totally unrelated topic, I was climbing with a Czech guy on Friday who comes from Brno, Ondra's home town. He had a pair of Miura's that he claimed (plausibly) were Ondra's cast-offs. I put my feet in them briefly. The next day I sent a very long standing local project, possible also a new grade level for me. Magic ...   :w00t:

Were they Ruby Red?

And did you click your heels and say "There's no grade like 9a, there's no grade like 9a"...
Nice. Had to google that.

Yeah right.

There's no shame in being a friend of Dorothy
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: robertostallioni on March 25, 2012, 08:13:23 pm
Quote
We're not in Kalymnos anymore, Toto
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on March 28, 2012, 01:52:12 pm
I also recall that there are some bizarre and scary additional rules: first bolt has to be at 10m, bolts have to be spaced 4m ... something like that (I forget the exact detail).

Its a short 10m if so....

(http://www.planetmountain.com/img/1/11270.jpg)

From a report from Adam on Planetmountain.com (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=39344) which has more details on the route which was originally bolted on abseil by a German ignoring the local ethics.  These bolts were chopped and new ones placed ground-up.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on March 28, 2012, 02:25:44 pm
So this is the famous Czech ethics to protect the rock??  :unsure: :???: :-\
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on March 28, 2012, 02:27:25 pm
It works quite well, at least north of the border. Go there and see for yourself.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on March 28, 2012, 02:41:35 pm
This one shows the successful redpoint.
Adam Ondra climb, To tu je&scaron;tě nebylo XIIb, Labské údolí.
At 6 minutes....after a load of edit-out-able attempts! Pity they didn't have a cameraman in the tree as the climbing you can see looks cool.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on April 08, 2012, 08:36:02 am
Ondra did the 2nd ascent of Moroni's 8c+ "bella regis", on sight s'il vous plait.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: boulderingbacon on April 08, 2012, 01:30:58 pm
not enough can be said for just how good he is. his ability to read the rock of something so hard whilst on-sighting is incredible. :bow:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Kingy on April 10, 2012, 07:41:30 pm
He has just onsighted El Frutto del Diavolo, Gabri Moroni's Italian 8c+ FA
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: HaeMeS on April 10, 2012, 07:58:27 pm
From http://www.up-climbing.com/en/news/rock/adam-ondra--at-bus-de-vela-update (http://www.up-climbing.com/en/news/rock/adam-ondra--at-bus-de-vela-update)
about El Frutto del Diavolo: "Unfortunately for Adam, his foot slipped and the onsight attempt failed."
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Kingy on April 10, 2012, 08:36:25 pm
Oops, jumped the gun!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on April 10, 2012, 09:37:20 pm
Can't win em all...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on April 11, 2012, 06:16:47 am
You start with a foot slip on an 8c+ onsight, and before you realize it, your career is over. Happened to me also. True story.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on April 11, 2012, 10:26:31 am
Punter!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: HaeMeS on April 19, 2012, 07:02:45 am
Good article by Ondra about his trip to Bus de Vela in Italy on PlanetMountain.com. 
http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=39433&utm_source=dlvr.it&utm_medium=facebook (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=39433&utm_source=dlvr.it&utm_medium=facebook)

About his onsighting abilities: "During this trip I tried two 8c's and did both of them, but I certainly can't state that I can do all 8c's on-sight. In general though, if a route is long and without extremely tricky sequences, then the chances are quite high that I'll succeed."

 :bow:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on April 19, 2012, 10:06:51 am
Onsighting 7 routes at a grade surely suggests you've got it in you to go a grade higher. Lets just hope he saves a few suitable 9as.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on April 25, 2012, 01:31:37 pm
9a onsight at Oliana! (well if it wasn't for some poxy moves on a 8b that he'd done before  :()
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Duncan campbell on April 25, 2012, 04:17:14 pm
Only the most strict ethical policeman ( :wank:) would give anything less than a flash surely!?!?

He onsighted the 8c bit, and flashed the 8c+ bit, but had already been on the easy bit of the 8b... I don't really know exactly how the ethics on these sort of things go but surely they no-one would make him claim redpoint!?!? Would they?

Anyway, what a beast!!  :strongbench:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on April 25, 2012, 05:30:35 pm
No way. You can't flash a route you've done sections of before
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: petejh on April 25, 2012, 06:04:21 pm
 :agree:

Ondra doesn't need any help by stretching the definitions, unlike some climbers. He's going to o/s 9a, it's just a matter of when not if.




Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on April 25, 2012, 06:12:58 pm
It's pretty harsh and i wouldn't know what to call it (an amazing effort probably) but these things are important especially when it's a first in the history of humanity. Anyway like Pete says he won't fall off 9a soon
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: finbarrr on May 15, 2012, 07:30:38 pm
on a different note:
even Daniel Woods has taken to thinking "What Would Adam Ondra Do?"

http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/woods_new_514d_in_clear_creek_canyon_colorado/ (http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/woods_new_514d_in_clear_creek_canyon_colorado/)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: a dense loner on May 16, 2012, 03:08:39 pm
He doesn't say that anywhere
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: finbarrr on May 16, 2012, 04:14:33 pm
i took the liberty to paraphrase the subtext ;)

"I had watched 'Wizard's Apprentice' the night before and saw Adam Ondra battle it out in heinous conditions," Woods says, "so this gave me inspiration to go into warrior mode and finish it off."
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: boulderingbacon on May 16, 2012, 09:46:12 pm
exactly it gave him psyche, he didnt say what would ondra do.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Duma on May 16, 2012, 09:54:51 pm
exactly it gave him psyche, he didnt say what would ondra do.
I'd imagine thast's why finbarr clarified, for the hard of thinking: PARAPHRASED the SUBTEXT

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: robertostallioni on May 16, 2012, 10:15:03 pm
Dickheads

(http://www.american-buddha.com/ahitch192k2.jpg)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: petejh on June 05, 2012, 09:56:37 pm
I watched him send the 'jungle boogie' project at ceuse today -  at the lefthand end of biographie sector. Awesome.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: cheque on June 08, 2012, 12:05:49 pm
9a+ apparently (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=39649)

EDIT: removed image that wasn't even of the right crag!  :slap:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: abarro81 on June 08, 2012, 12:07:52 pm
That picture's not of the route, it's of a different crag.
When's he going for the realization flash??
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Adam Lincoln on June 08, 2012, 12:10:09 pm
9a+ apparently (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=39649)

(http://www.planetmountain.com/img/1/12405.jpg)

That's Orgon.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on June 08, 2012, 12:16:40 pm
When's he going for the realization flash??

Today. I can feel it.....
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: cheque on June 08, 2012, 12:27:05 pm
That's Orgon.

  :slap: :chair: Fuck's sake. I thought it looked different to other pictures of Ceuse I'd seen...

Clearly I need to travel more. Or just start reading photo captions.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: JMB on June 08, 2012, 06:29:19 pm
Rock&Ice is reporting that Ondra is going for the Biographie onsight/flash right now.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on June 08, 2012, 06:40:26 pm
Rock&Ice is reporting that Ondra is going for the Biographie onsight/flash right now.

what no video steam :clown:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: lukeyboy on June 08, 2012, 07:11:40 pm
 :popcorn:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: highrepute on June 08, 2012, 07:16:17 pm
Live updates on twitter. climbing in the 21st century!

Rock and Ice ‏@rockandice
"Conditions aren't perfect,' says Ondra. "But I'm too motivated to wait!" T-minus 5 minutes... 7.08pm
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Lopez on June 08, 2012, 07:17:17 pm
Rock&Ice is reporting that Ondra is going for the Biographie onsight/flash right now.

That report is from 9am!!! http://www.rockandice.com/news/2030-adam-ondra-about-to-attempt-a-flash-of-biographie-515a (http://www.rockandice.com/news/2030-adam-ondra-about-to-attempt-a-flash-of-biographie-515a)

I demand answers!  :furious:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: highrepute on June 08, 2012, 07:18:45 pm
Rock&Ice is reporting that Ondra is going for the Biographie onsight/flash right now.

That report is from 9am!!! http://www.rockandice.com/news/2030-adam-ondra-about-to-attempt-a-flash-of-biographie-515a (http://www.rockandice.com/news/2030-adam-ondra-about-to-attempt-a-flash-of-biographie-515a)

I demand answers!  :furious:

timestamp is wrong
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Lopez on June 08, 2012, 07:22:07 pm

timestamp is wrong


Not that kind of answer  :chair:

Something like "Yeah, he's done it and is now getting drunk" is what i'm looking for.

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Adam Lincoln on June 08, 2012, 07:31:13 pm
He fell at last crux.
Title: Ondrawad
Post by: tomtom on June 08, 2012, 07:32:18 pm
He fell at last crux.

And is now getting drunk ;)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: abarro81 on June 08, 2012, 07:33:02 pm
There was a bit of live commentary on facebook.... 21st century reporting
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Lopez on June 08, 2012, 07:38:03 pm
Punter...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Percy B on June 08, 2012, 08:10:19 pm
Gabri Moroni has just commented, "Ondra is a punter" (on Crackbook). Do I take this to mean that Potter has dropped it?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: standard on June 08, 2012, 08:14:15 pm
Gabri Moroni has just commented, "Ondra is a punter" (on Crackbook). Do I take this to mean that Potter has dropped it?
yes
http://www.rockandice.com/news/2031-amazing-effort-by-ondra-on-realization-flash (http://www.rockandice.com/news/2031-amazing-effort-by-ondra-on-realization-flash)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: abarro81 on June 08, 2012, 08:15:51 pm
See Adam's post. No live stream, but live FB updates. He got through the 8c+ bit, fell on the top crux 4/5 moves from the end - guess that means one of the 2 crux moves
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Baldy on June 08, 2012, 08:33:03 pm
While he may have missed the 9a+ flash,

Lets not completely miss the fact that he still flashed an 8c+ route to get there, and then continued up the wall a significant distance...

That's got to be at least 9a no?

(still...pathetic effort though)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: ali k on June 09, 2012, 07:37:20 am
Adam you have broken my heart. Why didn't you just wait another year? Why?   :'(
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: petejh on June 09, 2012, 08:46:24 am
Watched this last night, weirdest scene ever at a crag with what seemed like almost every climber at ceuse watching from below Biographie sector waiting for the event to happen. Must have been massive pressure. Think everyone was just praying he didn't blow the start moves (which looked nails). Great to see, the guy's a legend.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on June 09, 2012, 02:59:23 pm
The original used to be regarded as hard 8c+ so not a bad effort!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: hobblingfool on June 12, 2012, 04:51:45 pm
There is an interview and some scrappy footage of his attempt here http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67185 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67185)

Always seems like a nice honest lad, would love to watch him climb in person one day.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on June 12, 2012, 04:56:40 pm
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lqJgwrXfKGE# (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lqJgwrXfKGE#)

How distracting!  Shut up and letting him get on with climbing.

From the same account Jungle Boogie

Adam ondra Jungle Boogie 9a+ Céüse (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pf8pknPUVWo#ws)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Sasquatch on June 12, 2012, 05:55:11 pm
See Adam's post. No live stream, but live FB updates.

I know he's a climbing god, but to update his FB midroute.   :bow:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on June 12, 2012, 06:20:00 pm
Fuck me i couldn't climb the stairs with all that pullava!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: boulderingbacon on June 13, 2012, 02:05:28 pm
whos this ali guy he looks pretty good at climbing ::)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on June 13, 2012, 02:06:42 pm
whos this ali guy he looks pretty good at climbing ::)

Dunno, but I think he spells it "Allez!"
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: abarro81 on June 13, 2012, 02:20:05 pm
Presumably world cup comp climbers are used to crowds and noise from the comps and thus rather better adjusted to it that most of us.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Baldy on June 14, 2012, 09:22:18 am
Sounds to me like you are pandering to the crowd   :whistle:

If I were to try and defend them, I would ask whether a horde of completely silent onlookers would be worse.
But I'm not going to try to.

Those people are idiots. How is he meant to flash a 9a+, with some eejit on the floor pulling him out of the zone every 2 seconds with their attempt to become part of the experience.
Pah.

I found the part where he rested, then made a false start quite funny though. So I guess the crowd did have some use.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on June 14, 2012, 10:04:00 am
So did he redpoint it?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: andy popp on June 14, 2012, 10:05:46 am
No. Interview on the other channel says two more failures (I think) and then he had to leave.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on June 14, 2012, 10:23:53 am
So maybe the flash was further off than originally thought. God effort anyway.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jern on June 14, 2012, 11:15:37 am
God effort anyway.

Devine!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Wood FT on June 14, 2012, 01:14:51 pm
So maybe the flash was further off than originally thought. God effort anyway.

bear in mind the effort he will have put in for the flash will have left him spannered for the rest of the day, then again he does do multiple hard shit in a day quite regularly
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: petejh on June 14, 2012, 11:16:25 pm
Here's my iphone footage of Ondra flashing Biographie 8c+ and falling on Realization. Excuse the cheesy commentary.

http://youtu.be/ps0rfypWBVU (http://youtu.be/ps0rfypWBVU)


Amazing really how long he's on there for - around 9 minutes from V11 start moves to falling off at the Realization/Biographie crux.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Adam Lincoln on June 14, 2012, 11:29:38 pm
So maybe the flash was further off than originally thought. God effort anyway.

bear in mind the effort he will have put in for the flash will have left him spannered for the rest of the day, then again he does do multiple hard shit in a day quite regularly

The days he failed to redpoint were subsequent days.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on June 15, 2012, 09:35:52 am
So maybe the flash was further off than originally thought. God effort anyway.

I never succombed to the flash hype, it is 9a+! Two grades harder than he's manged first go. He'll flash 9a soon though...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on June 15, 2012, 09:57:56 am
God effort anyway.

Devine!

Unintentional, but apt.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: HaeMeS on July 09, 2012, 05:03:02 pm
It's been relatively quiet the past couple of weeks. Ondra's summer holiday has started casually with a few quick repeats, a couple of new 8c/8c+ routes in Sweden (Bohuslan) and Norway (Sogndal). It seems he found dry rock and is fit...

 :jaw:

- Most difficult boulder in Norway (Blood Redemption by Magnus Midtbo, 8B+/8C) repeated: http://www.norsk-klatring.no/Ute/Buldring/Ondra-har-repetert-Blood-Redemption-8C (http://www.norsk-klatring.no/Ute/Buldring/Ondra-har-repetert-Blood-Redemption-8C)
- Eye of Odin, the new 8c+ in Flatanger onsight and a new 9a+/b as well: http://borebloggen.blogspot.nl/ (http://borebloggen.blogspot.nl/)

More to follow (if he finds dry rock up north)!

 :o
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on July 09, 2012, 06:05:53 pm
Nice he's exploring some different, cool, areas.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on July 12, 2012, 06:36:40 am
Nice he's exploring some different, cool, areas.
He's not exploring, he's only trying to find sometthing he hasn't already climbed.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on July 12, 2012, 10:01:07 am
Needs to get back to The Tor then.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on July 13, 2012, 12:08:47 pm
Needs to get back to The Tor then.

He knows when he's beaten  ;)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: nai on July 13, 2012, 12:24:05 pm
Maybe he's preparing for his return by practicing somewhere even wetter than here  :shrug:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on July 16, 2012, 10:15:57 pm
Certainly getting some practice in....

Adam Ondra climing in the Flatanger cave in Norway on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/45805681)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: iwasmexican on July 17, 2012, 12:05:06 am
Certainly getting some practice in....

Adam Ondra climing in the Flatanger cave in Norway on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/45805681)


"...just need to work it more and to get a bit stronger..."




ha
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: lukeyboy on July 25, 2012, 01:13:10 pm
If he gets any stronger he'll start ripping holds off the wall
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: GCW on October 04, 2012, 02:02:02 pm
Sounds like he's done his project at Hanshelleren Cave, Norway.  Change 9b+.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: r-man on October 04, 2012, 02:37:35 pm
Sounds like he's done his project

Did you hear the scream too?

Awesome stuff.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on October 04, 2012, 05:04:10 pm
Historic
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: neilpearsons on October 04, 2012, 08:17:24 pm
I don't know what's more shocking - the thought of F9b+ or the lack of comment on here.
Surely this has to be up there with all the other grade-breaking routes that got so much attention when they were done, and still get attention 20 years on, like Hubble and Action Directe.
Is everyone too  :o to type?
This may prove to be the ultimate sport route for our time - hard bouldering for 55 metres. Can't wait to see the video. A fantastic effort by the best climber of his generation.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: leeroy on October 04, 2012, 09:16:35 pm
I don't know what's more shocking - the thought of F9b+ or the lack of comment on here.


Not much to add! the ascent speaks for itself!

Can't wait to see the video.

Ditto, might have to wait for the next adam ondra film....
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: petejh on October 04, 2012, 10:28:46 pm
I don't know what's more shocking - the thought of F9b+ or the lack of comment on here.
Surely this has to be up there with all the other grade-breaking routes that got so much attention when they were done, and still get attention 20 years on, like Hubble and Action Directe.

Written six hours after news of the ascent broke on here? What's more shocking is you consider six hours of no hyperbole 'shocking'. The speed we hear about stuff these days; it makes for historic ascents becoming old news by the end of the week. Jumpers for goalposts etc..
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on October 04, 2012, 11:21:16 pm
Cool!  Let me start the speculations.

1) If Change really is 9b+, a 9a o/s will surely follow.  Is there any easy-to-read long 9a Ondra hasn't climbed yet?

2) Ondra will soon stop this cragging nonsense and move into alpinism. Only in the mountains will there be challenges left.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: moose on October 04, 2012, 11:44:08 pm
Ondra's freeing of Tough Enough was a pretty good foray away from "cragging". Christ knows what he could do on big walls if he, say, spent a season in Yosemite. Not sure about Alpinism though, a storm or a clumsy guide knocking a serac on top of him....noooooo!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on October 04, 2012, 11:48:11 pm
Is everyone too  :o to type?

What petejh said, even I'm not online 24/7.

Stunning effort, looks amazing! :bow:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: chummer on October 05, 2012, 12:13:11 am
Ditto Pete's and slacklines comments. Some of us were even out climbing!

Otherwise fucking awesome, what an incredible looking route and as for the crag, wowzers! If this is only his first major new route (as in worked proper hard at for a significant amount of time) so surely this is just the start, he can climb harder... :jaw:  :o
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: r-man on October 05, 2012, 12:15:06 am
Here's a bit of climbing geekery. A list (of course) of a few key sport climbers of the past decades - looking at the climber's age at each of their hardest two FA's.

Wolfgang Gullich, born 1960
-8c, Wall Street (Mk2), 1987, 27
-9a, Action Directe, 1991, 31

Ben Moon, born 1966
-8c, Maginot Line & Agincourt, 8c, 1989, 23
-8c+, Hubble, 1990, 24

Alexander Huber, born 1968
- 9a, Weisse Rose, 1995, 27
- 9a+ Open Air, 1996, 28

Fred Rouhling, born 1970
-Hugh, 9a, 1993, 23
-Akira, 9b, 1995, 25

Bernabe Fernandez, born 1974
-Orujo, 9a+, 1998, 24
-Chilam Balam, 9b?, 2003, 29

Chris Sharma, born 1981
-Realisation, 9a+, 2001, 20
-Jumbo Love, 9b, 2007, 26
-...

Adam Ondra, born 1993
-The Change, 9b+, 2012, 19
-...


Seems most climbers peak in mid to late twenties. Ondra has a long way to go...

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: chummer on October 05, 2012, 12:18:46 am
Nice r-man
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Paul B on October 05, 2012, 12:26:43 am
Nice r-man

Good effort on the geekery but I see quite a few problems with your list, for instance your first example tragically died young. Moon; you really think he peaked on Hubble or did he just change focus somewhat (and actually climb his hardest not so many years ago)?

You'd be better of looking at the Spanish climbers, Ramonet, Patxi, Andrada etc., non?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on October 05, 2012, 12:38:50 am
Nice r-man

Good effort on the geekery but I see quite a few problems with your list, for instance your first example tragically died young. Moon; you really think he peaked on Hubble or did he just change focus somewhat (and actually climb his hardest not so many years ago)?

You'd be better of looking at the Spanish climbers, Ramonet, Patxi, Andrada etc., non?

Sounds like the perfect scenario for "time to event" (aka survival analysis) accounting for some right-censoring!  :geek:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: r-man on October 05, 2012, 01:00:48 am
Nice r-man

Good effort on the geekery but I see quite a few problems with your list, for instance your first example tragically died young. Moon; you really think he peaked on Hubble or did he just change focus somewhat (and actually climb his hardest not so many years ago)?

You'd be better of looking at the Spanish climbers, Ramonet, Patxi, Andrada etc., non?

I was aware of those points, but people don't fit into neat boxes. The aim was a list representing climbers that broke new ground in sport climbing. Not sure the other Spanish climbers have done that, except maybe with onsighting? Andrada has done lots of hard link up things in his cave, including at least one thing graded 9b+, but his website is a nightmare to read, as well as being in Spanish. Also, it was never big news, so I assume it's not generally regarded as "proper" sport climbing?

As far as problems with the list - I think it just shows that shit happens. Moon clearly shifted focus and Gullich had a tragic death - but despite this, they still made significant contributions to the sport. We all know climbing hard (at our own relative levels) places large demands on the rest of life, and requires a bit of good fortune (good location, flexible job, understanding partner, stress-free existence) as well as determination and training. Perhaps the fact that there aren't many top climbers peaking in their 30's indicates that external factors become more pressing than the drive to climb harder.

If climbing continues to grow, maybe there will be more money available to fund the elite and keep them crushing into middle age. But even so, there's only so long anyone can be the best. At some point, the kids are just going to be too hard to keep up with.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: habrich on October 05, 2012, 01:22:13 am
On another tangent of geekery, when was the last "hardest route in the world" that wasn't on limestone? Maybe Yaniro's Grand Illusion back in the 1970s; thought to have been the first 8a.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: r-man on October 05, 2012, 01:27:04 am
Requiem in 83 and Punks in the Gym in 84?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: ducko on October 05, 2012, 01:33:38 am
machine, route looks wicked
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: habrich on October 05, 2012, 04:35:53 am
Requiem in 83 and Punks in the Gym in 84?
Good points! Though was Requiem the first at its grade ... what is its accepted grade?
Title: Re: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Clart on October 05, 2012, 07:23:06 am
I don't know what's more shocking - the thought of F9b+ or the lack of comment on here.


Not much to add! the ascent speaks for itself!

Can't wait to see the video.

Ditto, might have to wait for the next adam ondra film....
I hope not, the first one took forever.

Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk 2
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on October 05, 2012, 08:00:35 am
I don't know what's more shocking - the thought of F9b+ or the lack of comment on here.

Sir Sir Sir, I know the answer to that one!!!

What a daft comment, not everyone sits at their computer all day waiting for the latest tittilation titbit of tip top ascents.

Suffice to say this is an astonishing achievement and I too would like to see the ascent. Is this the route there was a vid of him doing most of recently?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on October 05, 2012, 09:29:35 am


Suffice to say this is an astonishing achievement and I too would like to see the ascent. Is this the route there was a vid of him doing most of recently?

Yes, working the lower section earlier in the year....

Adam Ondra climing in the Flatanger cave in Norway on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/45805681)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: r-man on October 05, 2012, 12:19:51 pm
Requiem in 83 and Punks in the Gym in 84?
Good points! Though was Requiem the first at its grade ... what is its accepted grade?

Requiem gets 8a+ according to the internet. Punks is 8b/8b+.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on October 05, 2012, 01:08:58 pm
On another tangent of geekery, when was the last "hardest route in the world" that wasn't on limestone? Maybe Yaniro's Grand Illusion back in the 1970s; thought to have been the first 8a.

First one on granite since then though?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: cowboyhat on October 05, 2012, 01:24:07 pm
Good points r-man.

Ondra, wow. I have astonishment fatigue, thats why people aren't going on about it.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Baldy on October 05, 2012, 01:31:35 pm
On another tangent of geekery, when was the last "hardest route in the world" that wasn't on limestone? Maybe Yaniro's Grand Illusion back in the 1970s; thought to have been the first 8a.

First one on granite since then though?

At the risk of being horribly wrong - I thought I heard someone in the past say that Meltdown was horribly difficult, and at the time might be considered the hardest trad route? That was on granite I believe?

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=864 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=864)

Quote
Beth's new route; The Meltdown is reportedly "significantly harder than the Optimist" and could be 5.14c/F8c+. This would make it one of the very hardest traditional routes in the world, alongside Rhapsody and Cobra Crack and confirms Rodden's status as one of the worlds top traditional climbers.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: r-man on October 05, 2012, 01:39:30 pm
I have astonishment fatigue

Me too. But since we are already in the realm of the unbelievable...thinking further into the future, is Ondra going to get to 10a?

Ondra put a lot of time into The Change. Sharma took a similarly long time to do his first big route Realisation, when he was around the same age as Ondra. He needed an epic siege with Jumbo Love before he decided he was at the next level, though now he has done a few at the same grade.

So if Ondra follows this pattern, his Jumbo Love will be 9c, and seems likely in a few years, after he's done a few more 9b+'s.

It would be surprising if Sharma didn't move on from the Jumbo Love level in the next few years. Similarly, if Ondra gets comfortable at 9c in his twenties, another big siege would take him to the next level, 9c+.

But 10a?

Nevermind the numbers, what I find interesting is how and if someone so far ahead of the rest can keep progressing. If Ondra climbs the hardest routes, what has he got to test himself on? How does he know when he's just stepped up a gear? Gullich seemed to manage alright, with the first 8b, 8b+,8c and 9a.

And on another note, it will be great to see the younger kids race through Ondra's testpieces. I think it's inevitable. These aren't Gaskins esoterics, these are classy lines in awesome places.

Waffle over. The future looks exciting.

 :popcorn:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on October 05, 2012, 02:08:43 pm
Me too. But since we are already in the realm of the unbelievable...thinking further into the future, is Ondra going to get to 10a?

Waffle over. The future looks exciting.

What I want to know is who is going to confirm the grade!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on October 05, 2012, 02:29:48 pm
All about 10a for sure  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on October 05, 2012, 02:43:51 pm
On another tangent of geekery, when was the last "hardest route in the world" that wasn't on limestone? Maybe Yaniro's Grand Illusion back in the 1970s; thought to have been the first 8a.

First one on granite since then though?

Hanshelleren is gneiss, not granite.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on October 05, 2012, 03:01:34 pm
I don't think this will get a repeat for a VERY long time!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Stubbs on October 05, 2012, 03:14:08 pm
Hanshelleren is gneiss, not granite.

It was granite before Ondra crushed it!  *rubbish geologist joke*
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on October 05, 2012, 03:18:40 pm

It was granite before Ondra crushed it!  *rubbish geologist joke*

I giggled...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: tomtom on October 05, 2012, 06:27:16 pm
Hanshelleren is gneiss, not granite.

It was granite before Ondra crushed it!  *rubbish geologist joke*

Gneiss pun!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: BenF on October 05, 2012, 06:40:37 pm
You'll get slated for that one Tom. 

Stop now.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: boulderingbacon on October 05, 2012, 07:40:16 pm
this rock atrocity of jokes is poor i think we should get on topic ::)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: AndyR on October 05, 2012, 08:13:15 pm
Hanshelleren is gneiss, not granite.

It was granite before Ondra crushed it!  *rubbish geologist joke*

Gneiss pun!
I thought it was pretty schist...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: ducko on October 05, 2012, 08:47:38 pm
Me too. But since we are already in the realm of the unbelievable...thinking further into the future, is Ondra going to get to 10a?

Waffle over. The future looks exciting.

What I want to know is who is going to confirm the grade!

I agree on this would be good for someone to confirm its difficulty not that I doubt the lad
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nemo on October 07, 2012, 07:42:56 pm
Interesting posts r-man.  Continuing the geekery…

Quote
"Sharma took a similarly long time to do his first big route Realization" - r-man
Not sure about that - Ondra's done this in one season in around 20 days over 2 trips.  Think Realization was an epic project for Sharma – tried it for ages over many years before finally doing it.  Ondra has still never really had a properly long siege on anything.

Quote
"what I find interesting is how and if someone so far ahead of the rest can keep progressing." - r-man
In terms of redpointing Sharma’s still providing competition, which has got to help with the motivation for now at least.  To me the big questions are how close to his limits and to the limits of the sport is he getting.  My guess is that there's still a very long way to go with both, considering that he’s 19, and this is his first year of full time climbing, but who knows?  It doesn’t seem unreasonable though that he could make massive progress in the next decade and climb 10a ish if he can find the right routes.  But of course, a lot of that depends on how wide Ondra himself chooses to make 9b+, 9c etc.

Whereas in bouldering, I think the potential for future progress is much more limited, and that limit is mainly imposed by the rock.  There will undoubtedly be some, but IMO the rock suitable for large numbers of high quality Font 9As just isn’t out there…  Without hard bouldering just focussing on eliminates, I suspect the period of rapid improvements is nearly over.  But in sport climbing, the properly hard routes really are out there – high quality routes in large numbers all over the place in Spain and elsewhere.

Quote
"it will be great to see the younger kids race through Ondra's testpieces." - r-man
Maybe.  But to me, this is the other interesting question - How much of a one off is Ondra?  Is he just the first of a long line of people who started climbing at a very young age with lots of talent.  Or are we unlikely to see another Ondra for 50 years.  To me the jury's still out on this...  Clearly the likes of Enzo Oddo etc are very good climbers, but I don't really see anyone else doing quite what Ondra has done from the younger generation just yet?  A combination of his talent, height, finger strength, sheer determination etc etc may be a pretty rare thing even in the long term.  It may be that if Ondra stays psyched and fulfils his potential in the next decade that some of his testpieces aren't repeated for a very, very long time. 

Quote
“Andrada has done lots of hard link up things in his cave, including at least one thing graded 9b+” – r-man
Might be wrong on this, but think the potential 9b+ which gets mentioned in that cave (Picachu?) is still a project?  Think the hardest two lines which Andrada has actually done in there, he’s given 9b?  And don’t want to be harsh, but to be fair to Sharma / Ondra it’s perhaps worth pointing out that if you don’t count link up’s in caves, I think Dani’s hardest routes are around the 9a/9a+ mark (stuff like Definicion De Resistencia…)?  Think same is true of Magnus Midtbo?  Cave link ups / traverses always seem to be graded very optimistically – they’re so much easier to work, no fear factor, no / little rope drag, no / few clips, that for the same physical difficulty of moves, they are often much easier to actually climb.

So whilst Ondra and Sharma are moving into 9b+ territory, in terms of “proper” routes, only Sharma, Ondra and Fernandez have climbed 9b (Fernandez just with Chilam Balam.)  Things at the top end of sport climbing seem to be becoming very exclusive…

Quote
“Historic” - Doylo
Indeed.  To me at least, I think it makes things clearer to separate out the traverses / long boulders / cave link ups etc (ie: Akira and the Ali Baba Cave etc).  And when you do this, the history of sport climbing actually follows a vaguely sensible timeline…  (Similar list to r-mans but different perspective):

8c: Wall Street (1987 - Gullich), Anais Et Le Canabis (1988 - Fred Nicole), Agincourt (1989 - Moon).
8c+: Liquid Ambar (1990 - Moffatt), Hubble (1990 - Moon), Just Do It (1992 – Tribout).
9a: Action Directe (1991 – Gullich), Om (1992 – Huber), Hugh (1993 – Roughling).
9a+: Open Air (1996 – Huber), Orujo (1998 – Fernandez), Realization (2001 – Sharma).
9b: Chilam Balam (2003 – Fernandez), Jumbo Love (2008 – Sharma), Golpe D’Estado (2008 – Sharma).
9b+: Change (2012 – Ondra).

http://novebi.ning.com/profiles/blogs/from-6a-to-9b-first-ascents-in (http://novebi.ning.com/profiles/blogs/from-6a-to-9b-first-ascents-in)  - has loads more history for anyone interested in such trainspotting.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: iwasmexican on October 07, 2012, 09:11:45 pm
Maybe.  But to me, this is the other interesting question - How much of a one off is Ondra?  Is he just the first of a long line of people who started climbing at a very young age with lots of talent.  Or are we unlikely to see another Ondra for 50 years.  To me the jury's still out on this...  Clearly the likes of Enzo Oddo etc are very good climbers, but I don't really see anyone else doing quite what Ondra has done from the younger generation just yet?  A combination of his talent, height, finger strength, sheer determination etc etc may be a pretty rare thing even in the long term.

the one glaring exception being ashima, but shes a girl so.... :whistle:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on October 07, 2012, 10:53:47 pm
If Liquid Ambar is sticking as 8c+ Hubble should surely be 9a.  Ondra said so didn't he and Moony said same grade as Action back in the day.  Chris Webb Parsons said this to me recently too although he has done neither route.
I think Ondra is a one off, he's just a relentless ticking machine who has absolutely everything going for him.  I think its proven by his six month bouldering stint where he basically became the best in the world ticking two 8c+s and flashing Gecko Assis!  He was only training for routes!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: GCW on October 09, 2012, 11:46:34 am
Quote from: Adam Ondra

I can't believe it – was, if my memory is right, the first words I said after clipping the anchor of this route. It is definitely the most rewarding feeling I have ever had after sending the route. I can't stop smiling, even now, typing these words. Despite the tough process of working the route, this can't be any sweeter. Not only because it is 9b+, a number which looks so strange typed on the screen.

The route can be divided into two pitches – 9a+/b (20m), nohand-rest and 9a (25m). The first pitch is bouldery – first twelve meters can be described as 8b route into 8B+ (some of the most crazy moves I have ever done) into 7B+. Above this, there is a bad kneebar, where I pull the rope down and the belayer starts belaying again. The rest of the first pitch is pretty easy. At the chains, there is a nohands rest, where you stand on good footholds in the vertical wall leaning with your head on the roof above (I did not find rest in summer).

The second pitch has a long power-endurance sequence of about 6 meters just above the first anchor, long moves, compression style and heelhooks including hard crimping as well. From here on, it is not more than 8b+, but tiring and neverending pumpfest, which offers numerous jugs to rest, but one is not able to recover there any more...

It is the route I've put the most effort into. It took me three weeks of trying in summer, two weeks in autumn. But I must say that sometimes it was a lot about waiting for the conditions to arrive, sometimes I went up the route only to find out it is was too damp and especially in autumn, when the temperature was excellent, but two holds were seeping in the upper part as it had been raining for three weeks straight prior to arrival.

Just the day of the send they finally got almost dry. I could do the single moves despite wetness, but it would be extremely difficult on the link. I have never got that high before sending it, but during the send I realized that I would definitely fall off if got in the previous conditions.

Regarding to grade, it has been a long dilemma. After sending the first pitch for a first time (after about 5 or 6 days), I thought that the first is merely 9a+ and the second pitch felt close as I could recover at the first chains pretty well. The ascent felt in grasp, but the more I tried it, the more I realized how hard the first pitch is on itself and how pumpy the second pitch is. The more I tried, the more the idea of 9b+ was buzzing in my head. The final decision was made two days before my ascent. My self-confidence was low down, the ascent a million miles way and I was playing with the idea that chances of doing this trip are dashed. As I though about it, it felt so much harder than any 9b's I have done so far, I put so much time into it, additionally it fits my style quite well, I told myself that it was going to be too hard for a 9b...

I realize right now how extremely lucky I was to find a line that turned out to be exactly on my limit. No waste of bolts only to find something impossible, just long hours of looking at the endless sea of Flatanger granite and good decision. I must say, in the end I did not choose the first line that struck my eyes at first glance, the most impressive one. This one is still in my mind, I'll probably give a look at it next year. But Change turned out to be exactly as I anticipated. Challenging with good movements, various styles of climbing. The only thing that spoils the route is the nohand-rest and the fact that it doesn't go to the top of the cave, or at least to the lip. I had an idea of trying a line to the top in one push, but in the end I found out that it is impossible due to rope drag and climbing with two ropes and having one rope already hanging in the wall is just too artificial. And climbing another pitch only to go to the top – that would be nice for the feeling, but a lot of work and no one would ever really climb, even though it could be world class 8c, as it is too complicated to jug up there. I really focused on finding a good spot to set the anchor, not in the middle of blank wall on bad crimp, but good ledge on the top of the obvious square-shaped feature.

The recent times and the route itself definitely changed myself a lot. I live a totally different life as I am not going to school anymore. The trying of it was an ever changing process. In the meantime, I learnt a lot, but I suppose that once I will start something new, I will make the same mistakes. The fight with your mind is the one you can win only temporarily. But one thing the route did not change – my desire for opening new routes. First ascents turned out to be as enjoyable and satisfying I had thought.


 :o
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on October 09, 2012, 12:03:22 pm
Whereas in bouldering, I think the potential for future progress is much more limited, and that limit is mainly imposed by the rock.  There will undoubtedly be some, but IMO the rock suitable for large numbers of high quality Font 9As just isn’t out there…  Without hard bouldering just focussing on eliminates, I suspect the period of rapid improvements is nearly over.  But in sport climbing, the properly hard routes really are out there – high quality routes in large numbers all over the place in Spain and elsewhere.


I think given the sheer volume of rock out there in the world the potential for harder bouldering and harder routes both exist. I think the issue with both though is that of perception; Ondra is so far ahead of the game that I think he is going to have to adjust his mind set as to what he perceives as possible and challenging for him and start creating his own lines, not just getting pointed at existing projects (both routes and boulders) which others have seen as having potential and getting to work on them, and hoovering them up.

Thus far he hasn't really had his creativity in perceiving possible routes / problems stimulated (as far as I know) and I think if he does manage to develop this side of his climbing then I think he still has a long long way to go, given that he has no real limitations on his time, finances and enthusiasm.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: abarro81 on October 09, 2012, 12:09:43 pm
If Liquid Ambar is sticking as 8c+ Hubble should surely be 9a.

 I have no idea about relative difficulty of LA vs Hubble (and almost certainly never will, I'd back myself a lot more on Realisation than Hubble!) but regarding the LA grade I saw this Jerry quote the other day: "It's a tough route - nowadays it would undoubtedly be graded 8c+, no question about that."
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on October 09, 2012, 12:14:06 pm
If Liquid Ambar is sticking as 8c+ Hubble should surely be 9a.

 I have no idea about relative difficulty of LA vs Hubble (and almost certainly never will, I'd back myself a lot more on Realisation than Hubble!) but regarding the LA grade I saw this Jerry quote the other day: "It's a tough route - nowadays it would undoubtedly be graded 8c+, no question about that."

Well Hubbles a full grade harder we know that much. Where was the Jerry quote, get me more!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: abarro81 on October 09, 2012, 12:23:47 pm
9a it is then. Bet Steve Mac would agree too.
Jerry quote was from an interview when  his book was coming out: http://www.planetmountain.com/english/news/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=36598 (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/news/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=36598)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jim on October 09, 2012, 08:02:09 pm
all this talk of upgrading is very un-British. Perhaps we need to downgrade it to redress the balance?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Stu Littlefair on October 09, 2012, 08:40:45 pm
Good idea Jim. I suggest Pilgrim at Parisella's to 8a
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Adam Lincoln on October 09, 2012, 08:44:56 pm
Good idea Jim. I suggest Pilgrim at Parisella's to 8a

Or hard 7c+?  :P
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on October 09, 2012, 08:46:00 pm
Good idea Jim. I suggest Pilgrim at Parisella's to 8a

 ;D
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: petejh on October 10, 2012, 05:23:37 pm
If LA was the UK's first 8c+ instead of the first 8c, what was the first 8c?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on October 10, 2012, 05:25:48 pm
If LA was the UK's first 8c+ instead of the first 8c, what was the first 8c?

Cry Freedom with the original sequence  :ras:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: hobblingfool on October 15, 2012, 10:00:30 am
The young man takes a ground fall trying some traditional climbing, http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67520 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67520)  :o he should definitely stick to bolts and bouldering for now. Don’t want him hurting himself; watching him completing mind-blowing ascents is too entertaining.

Oh and another 9a first ascent. It’s crazy that 9a is not big news for some now.  :bow:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Baldy on October 15, 2012, 10:25:45 am
Phew, you only have to watch the bit around 2 minutes to understand why he is the current best in the world.

Holy crap! :bow:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: rjtrials on October 15, 2012, 02:00:28 pm
Also, Ondra is now using kneepads.  how does this affect the asinine 'ethical' debate?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: shark on October 23, 2012, 10:07:14 am
 Apparently  (http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/ashima-sends-514a) Ondra is flying out to Red River Gorge today.  :popcorn:

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: r-man on October 23, 2012, 10:33:48 am
9a onsight? Place your bets now...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: abarro81 on October 23, 2012, 10:45:33 am
Crimpy, fingery 9as... They're toast.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on October 23, 2012, 10:59:20 am
Yeah, I reckon he'll be all over that place like a bad rash.

Wonder how many projects are having saucepan lids padlocked to the first bolt as we speak?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: gme on October 23, 2012, 12:46:07 pm
Heard this all before so many times. In 20 years 8c boulders will not even be news worthy and 9s will be getting put up everywhere.
The boundary between just possible and impossible just continues to get wider.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: lukeyboy on October 23, 2012, 12:49:11 pm
Apparently  (http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/ashima-sends-514a) Ondra is flying out to Red River Gorge today.  :popcorn:

Quote from: DPM climbing
All hard routes are currently in a state of DEFCON 1 meaning that absolute annihilation is imminent.

:lol:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Muenchener on October 23, 2012, 02:01:24 pm
In the course of reading that DPM article, and having to look things up because of the bizarre American refusal to use normal sport climbing grades, I noticed that Rockfax's exchange rate table only goes up to 9b+.

I hope they have a new edition in the pipeline.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on October 23, 2012, 02:51:03 pm
Thats ok, Adam Ondra's a dab hand at routes as well as bouldering.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on October 24, 2012, 12:52:36 pm
Back on Ondrawatch...

Long interview from Planetmountain.com (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=40198)  :coffee:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on October 25, 2012, 06:31:06 pm
Hold onto your hats....
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: biscuit on October 26, 2012, 11:16:20 am
Nice interview. Sounds like we can look forward to lots more 9b's and above.

Interesting about Planta Shiva. It's about 15 mins from my house and there is much more scope for development in that sort of grade from what i can see. There are similar lines on the same wall that also appear to have no proper holds on them just like Planta Shiva.

When you get close up to these routes and have a good look i can't even begin to imagine how they get up them.

I'm looking forward to him coming back soon as he said he thought there was more new routing potential here than in Catalunia. After he's on-sighted 9a of course.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: JMB on October 30, 2012, 01:05:49 am
Ondra flashes Southern Smoke Direct (9a+/5.15a) with beta from Daniel Woods and John Cardwell.

Ondra not surprisingly is unsure if he's done a 9a+ flash and suggests it could be 9a. Woods and Cardwell have worked on the route for days and say it is "at least 9a".
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Drew on October 30, 2012, 01:18:10 am
It was only a matter of time.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Clart on October 30, 2012, 01:22:31 am
Ondra flashes Southern Smoke Direct (9a+/5.15a) with beta from Daniel Woods and John Cardwell.

Ondra not surprisingly is unsure if he's done a 9a+ flash and suggests it could be 9a. Woods and Cardwell have worked on the route for days and say it is "at least 9a".

If not 9a+ would this be the first 9a flash? Glad to hear he's pulled his finger out, I was getting impatient waiting for news of extreme beastlyness.  :popcorn:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Baldy on October 30, 2012, 02:08:04 am
http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/adam-ondra-flashes-514d15a (http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/adam-ondra-flashes-514d15a)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: abarro81 on October 30, 2012, 07:30:57 am
 :o
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Grubes on October 30, 2012, 07:31:14 am
:bow::strongbench::bow:

it was only a matter of time but still wow!!!!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: andy popp on October 30, 2012, 07:49:28 am
:bow::strongbench::bow:

it was only a matter of time but still wow!!!!

The degree of inevitability almost makes it more impressive, but still ...  :o
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on October 30, 2012, 08:34:20 am
I ll repeat what I said on the Ashima thread- climbing has gone crazy!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Clart on October 30, 2012, 08:40:22 am
http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/adam-ondra-flashes-514d15a (http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/adam-ondra-flashes-514d15a)

"Apparently, he walked up to it and just went into beast mode".

That's a useful trick.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on October 30, 2012, 09:52:32 am
Is that like going into berserker mode?

Just crazy. And it's just beginning.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Duma on October 30, 2012, 09:57:40 am
fuuuuuuuuuuuck.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: cheque on October 30, 2012, 10:10:23 am
Awesome!  :bow:

Quote from: DPM website
Daniel Woods and Jon Cardwell have both been working the route

Ondra is fucking incredible.

If he's done the project left of Take That Katie Brown (and given it 14b/c!) then he's probably going to get a lot more of the open projects out there done. Fantastic.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on October 30, 2012, 10:21:00 am
Ondra not surprisingly is unsure if he's done a 9a+ flash and suggests it could be 9a. Woods and Cardwell have worked on the route for days and say it is "at least 9a".

Two worlds colliding there.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Wipey Why on October 30, 2012, 12:52:47 pm
OH EMM GEE!!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on October 30, 2012, 01:02:24 pm
'kinell
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Rocksteady on October 30, 2012, 01:45:53 pm
Epic.

This + Ashima news is crazy. Wish I was in the Red River Gorge (a) climbing and (b) watching all this stuff go down. Got to be better than work!

Next generation of talent.
 :strongbench:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Wood FT on October 30, 2012, 03:27:14 pm
mental
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on October 30, 2012, 03:34:47 pm
This + Ashima news is crazy. Wish I was in the Red River Gorge (a) climbing and (b) watching all this stuff go down.

Wonder if young love will blossom in Kentucky? :)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: shark on October 30, 2012, 03:50:02 pm
This + Ashima news is crazy. Wish I was in the Red River Gorge (a) climbing and (b) watching all this stuff go down.

Wonder if young love will blossom in Kentucky? :)

How young you talking ?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Krank on October 30, 2012, 03:50:27 pm
jimmy young
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on October 30, 2012, 04:18:30 pm
Jimmy Savile.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on October 30, 2012, 04:53:14 pm
Couple of pics of the historic ascent from Planetmountains news item

(http://www.planetmountain.com/img/1/14701.jpg)
(http://www.planetmountain.com/img/1/14702.jpg)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Pitcairn on October 30, 2012, 08:55:09 pm
The corner crack in the background looks well nice  :)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: dave on October 30, 2012, 09:00:39 pm
What the fuck. Somebody buy this kid a train ticket to carnforth.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: petejh on October 30, 2012, 09:03:30 pm
Wad the fuck
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Baldy on October 30, 2012, 09:11:11 pm
Phew, that wall is way more overhung than I thought it was, dont know why I thought it was straight up when it is covered in 9a routes...but there you go.  :shrug:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: abarro81 on October 30, 2012, 09:23:14 pm
You might be thinking of the wall with pure imagination and golden ticket - pretty sure that's a different wall and is less steep
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: habrich on October 30, 2012, 09:31:09 pm
This + Ashima news is crazy. Wish I was in the Red River Gorge (a) climbing and (b) watching all this stuff go down.
Wonder if young love will blossom in Kentucky? :)
Leaving aside the obvious legality/ maturity issues  ::), internet-climbing-nerds will know that Ashima stated her RRG visit was only seven days (in answer to "why no rest days?"), is known to have climbed Lucifer on day 7 and therefore must now be back in NY ...

 8)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on October 30, 2012, 10:30:07 pm
This + Ashima news is crazy. Wish I was in the Red River Gorge (a) climbing and (b) watching all this stuff go down.

Wonder if young love will blossom in Kentucky? :)

How young you talking ?

It is kentucky. If you get out your teens unmarried you are regarded as over the hill.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: JMB on October 30, 2012, 10:57:23 pm
Predictable UKC thread in the wake of this: "Which is harder to onsight, 9a or Indian Face?"
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Krank on October 30, 2012, 11:25:26 pm
Quote
I have done much except this, first two days I was warming up, then I tried 24 Carats, 8c+, and came quite close to onsighting, whereas on Lucifer, 8c+, I was miles away and sent it 4th go. I hadn't thought I was in a good shape, unsure about what to do and whether to save the flashes and onsights for the next year, but luckily I didn't save at least that flash. The grade is definitely 9a (5.14d), I do think that all the guys who gave me the beta (Cedric, Daniel, Jon) agree with that.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Muenchener on October 30, 2012, 11:27:16 pm
Predictable UKC thread in the wake of this: "Which is harder to onsight, 9a or Indian Face?"

Started, however, by John Arran whose climbing credentials are rather more solid than most people there. Or here.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on October 31, 2012, 06:16:11 am
Note the different shoe choice, Futura left, Python right.
Just to be sure nothing is left out of the plan.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on October 31, 2012, 08:26:12 am
Predictable UKC thread in the wake of this: "Which is harder to onsight, 9a or Indian Face?"

Started, however, by John Arran whose climbing credentials are rather more solid than most people there. Or here.

So what?  He really should know better.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on October 31, 2012, 09:29:23 am
And Ru, and Midgets Of The World ;)

I'm sure some of them are talking sense, I tried to read it but couldn't manage it.

Flashing 9a is awesome and I agree the "corner" in the background looks ace.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: lagerstarfish on October 31, 2012, 09:45:40 am
quick! get that man's metrics to feed into Slackers data bank

Shirley a wider grade spread will make it easier to spot patterns?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Ru on October 31, 2012, 11:05:37 pm
And Ru, and Midgets Of The World ;)

In my defence, I am ashamed. My excuse was that I'd finished my work and was too ill to train.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: a dense loner on November 01, 2012, 09:03:51 am
Ure a barrister man, "I'm ashamed" is no defence!
Was going to suggest anyone replying to that thread be instantly banned from ukb but since we'd lose our 2 smallest posters I'll refrain
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on November 01, 2012, 09:39:12 am
Yeah if we lose them two then it's just magpie and you.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: moose on November 01, 2012, 09:06:38 pm
 :yawn:
Predictable UKC thread in the wake of this: "Which is harder to onsight, 9a or Indian Face?"

I'm waiting for the thread querying the achievement because of pre-placed draws and chalk on the holds.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Muenchener on November 01, 2012, 09:15:01 pm
:yawn:
Predictable UKC thread in the wake of this: "Which is harder to onsight, 9a or Indian Face?"

I'm waiting for the thread querying the achievement because of pre-placed draws and chalk on the holds.

There was a thread on one of the American forums that I read the other day regarding the recent ascent of Dreamcatcher, in which some tw*t popped up with a snide comment about pre-placed draws. The others very commendably ignored him and carried on with the conversation.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on November 01, 2012, 09:28:35 pm
Who does 9a putting the clips in!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: petejh on November 01, 2012, 10:17:24 pm
The guy who onsights indian face.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: JMB on November 01, 2012, 11:24:30 pm
Who does 9a putting the clips in!

Didn't Ondra do that on Nordic Flower? (or did he downgrade that to 8c+ or something?)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on November 02, 2012, 12:10:03 am
The guy who onsights indian face.

 :lol:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: JMB on November 02, 2012, 02:55:43 am
DPM reporting that Ondra onsighted Pure Imagination (9a) and The Golden Ticket (9a) in the same day, suggesting lower 8c+ for Pure Imagination and hard 8c+ for Golden Ticket.

http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/two-514-onsights-ondra (http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/two-514-onsights-ondra)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Grubes on November 02, 2012, 07:29:17 am
Ondra seems to be causing more devastation
:strongbench:

Even if they get a downgrade too 8c+ onsight in a day is pretty amazing
 :o
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on November 02, 2012, 07:55:22 am
 :popcorn:
Reminds me of how Moffatt went to Frankenjura in '83 and onsighted the three hardest routes there.

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: ali k on November 02, 2012, 08:45:47 am
Fuck me that is incredible  :o

Not doubting Ondra's grading skills but maybe he is just too strong now. Either that or the routes in RRG are so suited to on-sights that it feels like a redpoint would anywhere else?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on November 02, 2012, 08:55:33 am
I knew he'd downgrade all these routes. Some things never change and one of them is soft grades in the states.  ;)

What an absolute monster!  :strongbench:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: shark on November 02, 2012, 09:14:56 am
Some things never change and one of them is soft grades in the states.  ;)

Not all areas and let's not forget Team America's tearing up the Grit grades 
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Rocksteady on November 02, 2012, 09:32:25 am
Amazing. How 'brave and humble' to suggest downgrades  :P

At age 18 or so, Ondra's list of achievements is already so long that this thread goes to 35 pages. That, in itself, is a pretty good achievement?!  :strongbench:

Sweepstake on how many pages the thread ends up before he stops being impressive, or we all get amazement fatigue?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Duma on November 02, 2012, 09:39:30 am
Some things never change and one of them is soft grades in the states.  ;)

Not all areas and let's not forget Team America's tearing up the Grit grades

from Johnathon (Siegrist?) on the DPM comments:
Quote
YES. Very stoked for Adam. This is super impressive, and while he may be too strong to really know (probably), I think a little grade correction is long overdue in the Red - even if it is one of my routes getting downgraded... Nice work man.

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on November 02, 2012, 09:43:20 am

let's not forget Team America's tearing up the Grit grades

 :yawn: That's about as relevant as Indian Face.

And yes I know it's not all areas, it was a joke hence the  ;)

Sharma changed the fact that all Americans were punters a long time ago......
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on November 02, 2012, 09:53:06 am
DPM reporting that Ondra onsighted Pure Imagination (9a) and The Golden Ticket (9a) in the same day, suggesting lower 8c+ for Pure Imagination and hard 8c+ for Golden Ticket.


I would never downgrade PI for fear of upsetting Sasha.

Amazing achievements though.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on November 02, 2012, 09:55:00 am

I would never downgrade PI for fear of upsetting Sasha.


If I remember from the video she wasn'tt that bothered about the grade as it was the line and climbing that inspired her (although I'm finding thats an increasingly over-used cliche these days).
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on November 02, 2012, 10:06:56 am
 :agree:

"What first attracted you to the millionaire Paul Daniels".
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on November 02, 2012, 10:10:45 am

I would never downgrade PI for fear of upsetting Sasha.


If I remember from the video she wasn'tt that bothered about the grade as it was the line and climbing that inspired her (although I'm finding thats an increasingly over-used cliche these days).

But she also said she believes in the power of holograms, so I don't trust a word that comes out of her lovely mouth.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: r-man on November 02, 2012, 10:11:18 am
At age 18 or so, Ondra's list of achievements is already so long that this thread goes to 35 pages.


Internet says he's 19, 20 in Feb. Teenage prodigy for not much longer. World's best climber for as long as he wants to be...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: petejh on November 02, 2012, 10:38:50 am
But she also said she believes in the power of holograms, so I don't trust a word that comes out of her lovely mouth.

 :lol:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on November 02, 2012, 11:51:52 am
Cool!  Let me start the speculations.

1) If Change really is 9b+, a 9a o/s will surely follow.  Is there any easy-to-read long 9a Ondra hasn't climbed yet?

2) Ondra will soon stop this cragging nonsense and move into alpinism. Only in the mountains will there be challenges left.

1) check.

2) not yet.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on November 02, 2012, 12:05:08 pm
But she also said she believes in the power of holograms, so I don't trust a word that comes out of her lovely mouth.

Very good point.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Wood FT on November 02, 2012, 12:35:40 pm
 :jaw: monster ondra monster

If I remember from the video she wasn'tt that bothered about the grade as it was the line and climbing that inspired her (although I'm finding thats an increasingly over-used cliche these days).


with you on this

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: shark on November 02, 2012, 12:43:59 pm

let's not forget Team America's tearing up the Grit grades

 :yawn: That's about as relevant as Indian Face.


It was relevant insofar as we have had embarrassing grade moments as well so best not to poke (too much) fun.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: JMB on November 02, 2012, 01:03:42 pm
It's probably worth pointing out that Adam Taylor originally graded The Golden Ticket 5.14c/8c+, and it was upgraded by subsequent repeaters, so Ondra calling it "hard 8c+" isn't really much of a downgrade. It is definitely true that the RRG is a great place to push your onsight limit though; the resistant style of climbing means if you have anything resembling good endurance fitness you can get up routes that are graded near your limit.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Stubbs on November 02, 2012, 01:04:41 pm
What were the embarrassing grade moments?  I only remember The Groove, which KJ only climbed half of before giving it a different grade?  Hadn't the Promise been downgraded pre Team America?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on November 02, 2012, 01:35:49 pm
Exactly.

Also, absolutely no relevance to sport climbing grades and my shit joke which was about American sport grades being taken with a pinch of salt for over 20 years (anyone remember Boone Speed's Blackout?).

Someone take shark's spade off him.  :P
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Stubbs on November 02, 2012, 01:39:54 pm
I guess it's also worth pointing out that Ondra is a climber like any other with particular strengths and weaknesses (maybe?) and not a 1 man arbiter of grades.

It must be boring being that good at climbing!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: shark on November 02, 2012, 02:14:16 pm
Exactly.

Also, absolutely no relevance to sport climbing grades and my shit joke which was about American sport grades being taken with a pinch of salt for over 20 years (anyone remember Boone Speed's Blackout?).

Someone take shark's spade off him.  :P

Ok I'm wrong.  :spank:

Is that a breach of forum etiquette ?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on November 02, 2012, 02:29:18 pm
Yes. Ban Fiend immediately.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on November 02, 2012, 02:50:40 pm
Piss off blondie :chair:

Also:

If I remember from the video she wasn'tt that bothered about the grade as it was the line and climbing that inspired her (although I'm finding thats an increasingly over-used cliche these days).

with you on this

Is it a cliche?? I tend to take these comments at face value - I assume if someone is going to push their limits (which the grade is probably some sort of useful guesstimate for) then they'd really want to do it on something with an inspiring line and climbing.

Then again people climb hard at the Tor so  :shrug:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: andy_e on November 02, 2012, 02:55:16 pm
Of course it's a cliché. "Look at me, I'm so down to earth and deep that I don't care about grades and only care about aesthetics." If that were true, those people wouldn't be pushing their grade, they'd be travelling around the world climbing stunning VDiffs.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on November 02, 2012, 03:14:30 pm
Is it a cliche??

Yes (https://www.google.co.uk/search?client=opera&rls=en-GB&q=define+cliche)  :tease:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on November 02, 2012, 03:27:30 pm
Well that definition implies that it is....subjectively. "a trite or obvious remark / trite: Overused and consequently of little import" I think the import depends partly on the person reading/hearing the phrase, and I still think the phrase in question can be important to mention and have some power - otherwise we'd all be believing the spurious shite andi_e is mistakenly spouting as a counter-argument (are people really so wrapped up in their grade-chasing they can't perceive climbing otherwise?).
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on November 02, 2012, 03:35:41 pm
Which is why I said I'm finding it cliched.  The phrase may be important, as you think it is, but still be cliched to me as its fairly obvious that people don't climb to grade chase and the same or variations on a theme are heard in most videos these days (although it can be used very well for example the use of the phrase is parodied in Vertical Sailing when they set off up a grass choked crack!).

Anyway  :offtopic: and I'm not about to derail another thread. :sorry:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: andy_e on November 02, 2012, 03:47:04 pm
otherwise we'd all be believing the spurious shite andi_e is mistakenly spouting as a counter-argument (are people really so wrapped up in their grade-chasing they can't perceive climbing otherwise?).

Not that, but their egos demand that they want to seem so aloof and cool and at one with mother nature.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Muenchener on November 02, 2012, 04:32:42 pm
they'd be travelling around the world climbing stunning VDiffs.

Such as ...?

Cool-looking inspiring lines to tend to involve harder climbing. I'm certainly finding that in the area I live in and the level I currently climb at. Alpine multipitch sport routes at around 6a/b for eaxmple - even ones that are supposedly "classics" of the genre -  tend to be not very inspiring lines with lots of pretty scrappy pitches and only the odd good bit. The really cool-looking lines start at quite a bit harder.

Of course "quite a bit harder" relative to 6a/b doesn't necessarily have to mean 9a upwards. I'm quite willing to believe that diminshing returns kick in at some point. But the fact remains that harder climbs are, often, better, and that one valid reason to want to climb harder is to be able to get on a wider selection of inspiring-looking lines in cool situations.

(OK, I'd be willing to concede the Sgurr Dubh Mor Slabs on Skye as a rare example of an easy route that it is utterly stunning. Name another)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on November 02, 2012, 04:37:16 pm
one valid reason to want to climb harder is to be able to get on a wider selection of inspiring-looking lines in cool situations.
Congratulations, we have a winner.

Anyway, what was the topic. Flashing two 9as and downgrading them to 8c+....errrr....yes rather good. Not much to add to that!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: a dense loner on November 02, 2012, 04:40:44 pm
Can we keep this thread on track with Ondra being a wad instead of descending into farce again
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: petejh on November 02, 2012, 06:42:53 pm
At the risk of descending back into farce mode (instead of going into beast mode)...

What strikes me as so inspiring about Ondra, apart from his climbing ability, is his attitude. Think about how a hell of a lot of other good climbers in the same position as Ondra would act - you've just flashed a route given 9a+, and onsighted two routes given 9a; how many climbers would be happy to claim it? All bar a very few is my guess.  Not him - he's just turned down the opportunity to be the first ever to O/S 9a. Twice.  That to me shows an unusual ability to distance himself from the hype.  I can't imagine a more narcissistic climber ever having the sort of self-control to ignore the little glory-hunting devil on one shoulder and instead listen to the angel on the other telling you it might not really be the grade given! Admittedly he's become the first ever to flash 9a, and it'll probably be Ondra who does become the first to onsight 9a but still...

(and until he solos 7b+ in the welsh hills he's not kidding anyone)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Richie Crouch on November 02, 2012, 07:50:52 pm
I fucking love reading about Ondra destruction. Looking forward to seeing some footage of him trying really hard!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on November 02, 2012, 08:59:35 pm
It must be boring being that good at climbing!

Too right, what is climbing without spending years wondering if you'll ever be good enough to tick your dream climb.  The joy when you do something only lasts 30 minutes.  Even his 9b+ didn't seem to be too much of an epic, he needs to spend 50 days on something to get a real feel for the game  :P
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: andy_e on November 03, 2012, 01:21:32 am
When that banal shite is layed on in climbing videos it always sounds rehearsed and hackneyed as the driving to the crag scene. We.all.climb to climb beautiful lines, just like we all.drive to the crag.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: JMB on November 03, 2012, 01:32:57 am
Daniel Woods confirmed the downgrade on Pure Imagination today after flashing (!) it with beta from Ondra. Unless I'm forgetting someone that makes him only the 4th climber to flash or better on an 8c+ route (Ondra, Ramonet, and Paxi being the others, all onsights), which is pretty impressive for a guy who until this year was mostly a boulderer rather than route climber.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on November 03, 2012, 08:53:13 am
Yes it is impressive! Sits nicely with his font 8b+ flash.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: moose on November 03, 2012, 08:58:18 am
..... he needs to spend 50 days on something to get a real feel for the game  :P

He should move to the UK and tear-up his passport.  He'll then get to spend months at a time fruitlessly waiting for holds to dry.... not that I'm bitter (my first season of sport-climbing, whilst more successful than I expected, became akin to a course in "character building" designed by a seepage obsessed sadist).
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on November 03, 2012, 09:11:53 am
He had wet holds in Norway I suppose....
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: petejh on November 03, 2012, 10:19:12 am
I heard when Ondra goes into beast-mode, seepage retreats.  :ninja:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Kingy on November 03, 2012, 07:22:17 pm
Unbelievable, it makes you wonder how hard things like mutation must be, I can't see that one getting flashed anytime soon. (I may live to eat these words! although I believe Ondra has been on it).
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: r-man on November 03, 2012, 09:04:04 pm
Unbelievable, it makes you wonder how hard things like mutation must be.

Eh? Sport routes aren't graded for onsights, are you getting confused with trad?  ;)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Kingy on November 03, 2012, 10:28:37 pm
That's true but I reckon onsight or redpoint, Mutation might compare well difficulty wise with some of these enduro fests in RRG, although of course its a completely different style. Incidently, interestingly I don't think Ondra managed to onsight Mecca which is a lowly 8b+ which perhaps comfirms that tor routes are difficult to onsight.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Baldy on November 05, 2012, 07:59:31 am
Ondra Bolting in RRG

http://imgur.com/a/M2JEf (http://imgur.com/a/M2JEf)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Falling Down on November 05, 2012, 09:07:54 am
Must have read your post Doylo.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on November 05, 2012, 09:50:09 am
And the "the next level" thread.

Shame he only has 90 days to complete the lifetime project before US Immigration come for him.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: shark on November 05, 2012, 10:20:46 am
Incidently, interestingly I don't think Ondra managed to onsight Mecca which is a lowly 8b+ which perhaps comfirms that tor routes are difficult to onsight.

AFAIK he didn't get on it.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Falling Down on November 05, 2012, 11:43:08 am
 :lol:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: shark on November 06, 2012, 11:26:56 pm
The latest:

http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/two-514-onsights-ondra (http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/two-514-onsights-ondra)

 :w00t:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Duma on November 06, 2012, 11:35:12 pm
Am I missing something, or are you? That article is 5 days old, and JBM linked it on here 2 pages ago.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on November 07, 2012, 09:58:26 am
Good to see the moderators with their fingers on the pulse.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on November 07, 2012, 10:16:46 am
 :lol:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: shark on November 07, 2012, 10:45:56 am
 :slap:


I did say it was the latest though
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: gme on November 07, 2012, 10:49:39 am
It isnt.

http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/more-red (http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/more-red)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on November 07, 2012, 10:50:46 am
doublefail.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: andy_e on November 07, 2012, 10:54:22 am
It's all going off. 4 people have flashed 8c+ and 17 8c+s have been flashed. 14 of those by Ondra, one each for the other three.  :look:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: shark on November 07, 2012, 11:09:31 am
doublefail.

"Latest" as in late. Geddit ?

Where's my coat..

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Krank on November 07, 2012, 11:21:05 am
Quote
Adam is regarding it as a "lifetime project." Sources state that the new line has approximately four V14 boulder problems on it.

 :jaw:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on November 07, 2012, 12:15:17 pm
So, four goes to flash each single boulder problem, plus a few ones to link them, plus some days of poor conditions...
Project climbed by Christmas?  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: moose on November 07, 2012, 12:44:10 pm
As an act of charity, I think Ondra should install intermediate belays between each boulder problem.  That way he would bring a life-time ground-up ascent within the grasp of mere punters like Sharma, Robinson etc!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on November 07, 2012, 01:01:57 pm
I wonder if it would be possible to combine portaledge and trampoline technology to give each one a decent landing. Although you probably wouldn't want to bounce off the trampoline.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Stenno on November 12, 2012, 12:18:04 pm
red river gorge (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r_p_BOyjxpA#ws)

Some good footage of Ondra going animal on the Southern Smoke Direct flash at the end of that video and some footage of Woods and Lachat working it for comparison...he's definitely on another level
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on November 12, 2012, 12:53:04 pm
I think the correct term is "beast mode". The difference between Lachat trying it and Ondra doing it (first go) is quite marked. And Lachat is no slouch.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: cowboyhat on November 12, 2012, 01:38:18 pm
Nice video.

Ondra tries really hard but then that is what it takes to climb Fontainebleu 8b.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on November 13, 2012, 11:21:13 am
Entre-Prises' Adam Ondra climbing Hoosier Heights Indianapolis (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KlQWPsSz_lE#ws)

Comes across as a nice and increasingly eloquent guy. I like that he was inspired for 2 years to try Pure Imagination, I respect that.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: habrich on November 13, 2012, 04:22:37 pm
Comes across as a nice and increasingly eloquent guy.
Yeah, let's hope he stays off the weed and doesn't end up a babbling/ vocabulary-constrained stoner like the entire late 90's/ 00's generation of hard US climbers.

And when exactly did he find time to nail English anyway?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Wood FT on November 13, 2012, 04:51:02 pm
Comes across as a nice and increasingly eloquent guy.
Yeah, let's hope he stays off the weed and doesn't end up a babbling/ vocabulary-constrained stoner like the entire late 90's/ 00's generation of hard US climbers.

And when exactly did he find time to nail English anyway?

And Italian, cutlurewad
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on November 13, 2012, 05:07:00 pm
Dura Dura next .... :bounce:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on November 13, 2012, 05:40:14 pm
And when exactly did he find time to nail English anyway?

When people were sticking video cameras in his face asking him questions in English all the time!  :P
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: petejh on November 13, 2012, 05:47:27 pm
The transformation will be complete when he drops the term 'smashed it in' into his next interview.
Title: Ondrawad
Post by: tomtom on November 13, 2012, 06:56:43 pm
Noooooooooooooooooooooooooooo!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on November 14, 2012, 07:51:55 am
cutlurewad

superb.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Danny on November 19, 2012, 11:22:20 am
Don't know if someone already posted this somewhere, but it's worth seeing again anyway. An amazing bit of onsighting:

http://vimeo.com/channels/blackdiamond/53636034 (http://vimeo.com/channels/blackdiamond/53636034)

For comparison, someone fairly handy having a battle on that top bit:

Working the Golden Ticket on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/16675082)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on November 19, 2012, 11:36:17 am
Jesus, ridiculous! I couldn't help fantasising about the mother of all screams if he had dropped the last move  ;D
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on November 19, 2012, 12:04:35 pm
The transformation will be complete when he drops the term 'smashed it in' into his next interview.

I'd love to see a series of interviews in the Gulio Geordio style.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on November 19, 2012, 03:07:49 pm
Don't know if someone already posted this somewhere, but it's worth seeing again anyway. An amazing bit of onsighting:

http://vimeo.com/channels/blackdiamond/53636034 (http://vimeo.com/channels/blackdiamond/53636034)

Bloody great, shows just how ace onsighting is and just how ace Ondra is (and the route for that matter). I love his committment to some of the bad holds moves. Also shows how utterly important not being scared of falling is - whould he have had the strength for the crux if he'd clipped before it??
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on November 19, 2012, 03:19:37 pm
Don't know if someone already posted this somewhere, but it's worth seeing again anyway. An amazing bit of onsighting:

http://vimeo.com/channels/blackdiamond/53636034 (http://vimeo.com/channels/blackdiamond/53636034)

Bloody great, shows just how ace onsighting is and just how ace Ondra is (and the route for that matter). I love his committment to some of the bad holds moves. Also shows how utterly important not being scared of falling is - whould he have had the strength for the crux if he'd clipped before it??

Yes i don't think anyone who's scared of falling off could onsight 8c+!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Stubbs on November 19, 2012, 03:25:58 pm
whould he have had the strength for the crux if he'd clipped before it??

He didn't exactly looked boxed out of his mind to be fair...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on November 19, 2012, 03:30:03 pm
Amazing. Seeing Pringle (who is very much not shit) struggling on the redpoint puts it into perspective too.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on November 19, 2012, 03:45:50 pm
I know its stating the bloody obvious but he is fuckin incredible at onsight climbing. This footage and the Mind Control footage are just silly  :yes:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: andy popp on November 19, 2012, 05:04:20 pm
On Golden Ticket he simply doesn't look like he's climbing onsight.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Rocksteady on December 05, 2012, 10:21:02 am
From La Sportiva: Adam Ondra's thoughts on the US, his beast powers in 'the Red', and what's next - looks like Dura Dura...

http://www.lasportiva.com/news_approfondimento.html?&L=1&tx_ttnews%5Btt_news%5D=1665&cHash=fe075b79e743a7ba1bd8338d5506df43 (http://www.lasportiva.com/news_approfondimento.html?&L=1&tx_ttnews%5Btt_news%5D=1665&cHash=fe075b79e743a7ba1bd8338d5506df43)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on December 05, 2012, 11:45:56 am
Setting off for a 9a on sight, after two years of waiting, he just knew he would not fall off. With every crimp his confidence grew. What a monster.
The battle is won before fighting it.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on December 05, 2012, 12:18:19 pm
Just shows how powerful his mind skills are.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on December 05, 2012, 02:46:43 pm
Well said Nibble.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: finbarrr on December 05, 2012, 02:54:53 pm
adam ondra, hero and rock star :

http://i.imgur.com/g1Uok.jpg (http://i.imgur.com/g1Uok.jpg)

from :

La Sportiva Legends Only - Backstage on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/54728411)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: cowboyhat on December 06, 2012, 12:38:55 pm
tHAT DANCING IS iNCREDIBLE!

I respect him more.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Baldy on December 06, 2012, 04:05:00 pm
(http://i.imgur.com/g1Uok.jpg)

 :punk:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: masonwoods101 on January 07, 2013, 09:29:10 am
Adam Ondra´s 2013 message - Start the change on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/56865046)

 :unsure:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on January 07, 2013, 10:50:39 am
 Most amusing!  :lol:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: masonwoods101 on January 07, 2013, 11:28:17 am
just weird i thought hahaha
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on January 07, 2013, 11:31:36 am
Just shit I thought.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on January 07, 2013, 11:39:53 am
 :agree:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on January 07, 2013, 12:51:04 pm
I thought it was nice to see that he's not above taking the piss out of himself (although it could have been shorter).
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on January 07, 2013, 12:53:38 pm
If I want to watch someone twatting about on a building I'll watch Liam Copley's films. Or rather I wont.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on January 07, 2013, 01:35:44 pm
+1. A mildly amusing joke that could have been funny if 30 seconds long.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: habrich on January 07, 2013, 07:06:52 pm
I have a few Czech friends and that video reminds me of their (usually) incomprehensible jokes. That said, it seems in Czech you can only get a really big laugh if the story involves someone dying in a macabre or ironic way, which doesn't apply here. Perhaps there's a sequel?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: masonwoods101 on January 07, 2013, 08:47:55 pm
Hope not hahahaha
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: r-man on January 25, 2013, 12:09:46 am

http://www.entre-prises.com/news/2013/01/ondra_january_update (http://www.entre-prises.com/news/2013/01/ondra_january_update)


(http://www.entre-prises.com/userfiles/image/ondra_jan_02.jpg)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: r-man on January 29, 2013, 11:17:35 pm
Quote from: http://www.8a.nu
Today, Adam Ondra fell on the last move on the last crux half way up on the 50 m La Dura Dura. "He screamed as usual but you could here he was pleased, excited and very confident. Today was kind of shitty conditions. He dominated Oliana today and for sure he will send it this weekend with better conditions. It was so cool...", says a very impressed fan.

But he needs to do it fast as Chris Sharma who bolted it has also made nice progress passing the first part... "The bottom is like a series of really specific moves and really fucked up climbing on bullshit holds....", continues the fan. Ondra has said that possibly it is even harder than The Change, 9b+ and this is his fifth trip only dedicated to it.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on January 30, 2013, 12:00:15 am
Don't care for the competition aspect that 8a.nu typically leans towards.

Just be great to see either of them do it.  :bow:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on January 30, 2013, 12:01:57 am
Or both!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on January 30, 2013, 12:08:27 am
At the same time! :clown:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: r-man on January 30, 2013, 12:17:35 am
The way things are presented on 8a.nu sometimes goes against the grain, but come on, although I'm sure they are enjoying trying the route together, competition has got to be there, and I'll bet they are each trying just that little bit harder...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on January 30, 2013, 07:16:02 am
No doubt there is, but from the clips I've seen its likely very friendly and twisting it into a race is just sensationalism, unnecessary and detracts (slightly) from the reporting.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on January 30, 2013, 08:01:52 am
Crap reporting from 8a.nu. Shock horror!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on January 30, 2013, 02:47:02 pm
That idiot that Jens Larssen is, is already talking about "the race"... Reminds me about the Troll Wall false titles from local and British press.
Utter bull***t as usual. Completely unnecessary.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on January 31, 2013, 02:06:16 pm
Ondra on the lower section of La Dura Dura...

(http://www.rockandicemagazine.com/Article-Images/News-Photos/ondra-la-dura-dura.jpg)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Luke Owens on January 31, 2013, 02:27:17 pm
Awesome photo! It looks absolutely nails!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on January 31, 2013, 04:11:14 pm
Is it only I who fail to see how "climbers attempting to get up a route" is of general interest?

(I have a hard time understanding the general interest around the Dawn Wall project as well)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Luke Owens on January 31, 2013, 04:18:58 pm
Is it only I who fail to see how "climbers attempting to get up a route" is of general interest?

(I have a hard time understanding the general interest around the Dawn Wall project as well)

Probably because when they eventually get climbed they will be some of the hardest climbs in the world?

I also like the reports because it shows the amount of effort that goes into climbing something of that calibre.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Baldy on January 31, 2013, 04:26:28 pm
Life must be very dull for you...

Two guys pushing the sport harder than ever done before, in a challenge of young upstart over ultrawad stalwart of the scene?

That really does nothing for you? :shrug:

Its like the hype up before any big fixture in any other sport, both are looking round the course, commenting on interesting features that could play to their advantages, talking about tactics, about how they need to train for a certain move.
4 trips now this 'Dura Dura' has held off what is unquestionably the two strongest climbers of this generation and the next. :bounce:

I dont understand how you can possibly not be interested in this if you claim to have any interest in climbing...

Even if these things arent happening to me, it is enjoyable to live through them vicariously.

Stop being a party pooper.  :spank:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on January 31, 2013, 04:36:36 pm
Its like the hype up before any big fixture in any other sport, both are looking round the course, commenting on interesting features that could play to their advantages, talking about tactics, about how they need to train for a certain move.

And that sort of stuff is precisely what turns a lot of people off of those sports and perhaps towards climbing.  There is a lot of bullshit talked around a lot of sports, e.g. football, title matches in boxing.  What does it serve purpose for?  To increase interest and get people to pay to watch it.

4 trips now this 'Dura Dura' has held off what is unquestionably the two strongest climbers of this generation and the next. :bounce:

Nonce Sense, you've no idea what the next generation will bring.  Plus I'd imagine Sharma, who lives out in Spain and bolted the line, has spent more than 4 trips on it.

I dont understand how you can possibly not be interested in this if you claim to have any interest in climbing...

Even if these things arent happening to me, it is enjoyable to live through them vicariously.

Stop being a party pooper.  :spank:

Some people climb for themselves rather than vicariously and have no interest in what others are up to.

Its not shitting on your party to ask a question.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on January 31, 2013, 04:42:00 pm
I was about to reply, but slackline already replied for me. Thank you sir!

I am sure I will be well interested and duly impressed if someone climbs La Dura Dura and it turn out to be hard.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: r-man on January 31, 2013, 04:44:01 pm
Surely most climbers are interested in the process, not just the resulting name and grade?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Baldy on January 31, 2013, 05:09:21 pm
Quote
And that sort of stuff is precisely what turns a lot of people off of those sports and perhaps towards climbing.  There is a lot of bullshit talked around a lot of sports, e.g. football, title matches in boxing.  What does it serve purpose for?  To increase interest and get people to pay to watch it.

I guess...Still, I think it is a bit of an oversight to deliberately ignore what will be a likely topic of conversation when it happens.

Quote
Nonce Sense, you've no idea what the next generation will bring.  Plus I'd imagine Sharma, who lives out in Spain and bolted the line, has spent more than 4 trips on it.

Ondra is 19 years old, and at present is continuing to improve. While I agree that other younglings are tearing up the rule books on what was perceived to be possible in the non too distant past, I dont think it is remotely unreasonable to suggest that he (provided he doesnt give up/burnout) will continue to be one of the sports strongest climbers for many years to come.

Your point about Sharma living so close to the project only serves to intensify the point I was making?

Fairly irrelevant to the point in hand.

Quote
Some people climb for themselves rather than vicariously and have no interest in what others are up to.

Its not shitting on your party to ask a question.

Maybe not to ask the question alone but it tends to come with a subtext most of the time.

I know enough people that turn up in groups and try to give the appearance of individuality or superiority by suggesting they are above the base pursuits of others that find these stories to be of interest.

Im sure you have met a 'hipster' at some point who doesnt like 'xyz' band because they are not obscure enough (despite whatever their vocalised reasoning is)

I am suggesting that if jwi is going to the pub with some mates, I would consider him a bit of a dick -Nay! a 'party pooper'- if he tried to pull that sort of attitude while everyone is talking about how in awe they are.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on January 31, 2013, 05:32:23 pm
Ondra is 19 years old, and at present is continuing to improve. While I agree that other younglings are tearing up the rule books on what was perceived to be possible in the non too distant past, I dont think it is remotely unreasonable to suggest that he (provided he doesnt give up/burnout) will continue to be one of the sports strongest climbers for many years to come.

And my point was that you don't have a crystal ball so its pointless conjecture about the future.

Cliff Burton was an amazing bass player....until the tour bus he was travelling in crashed throwing him out the window and crushing him when it toppled onto him.

Being something of a pedant I hate it when things are qualified as being biggest/hardest/fastest.....EVER when it should be "...so far".

I am suggesting that if jwi is going to the pub with some mates, I would consider him a bit of a dick -Nay! a 'party pooper'- if he tried to pull that sort of attitude while everyone is talking about how in awe they are.

When I go climbing with mates the pretext is that we enjoy ourselves for the day/evening, what  world class wads have been upto is irrelevant and never gets mentioned.  Generally too engrossed in the task at hand.  Chat at the crag or in the pub is far more likely to involve what we've been upto since the last time we met, climbing just done, where/when to go next or things other than climbing ( :o I know shocking isn't it) rather than wads on the other side of the world and what they're upto which whilst it might be pushing world standards has little bearing on our lives.

Horses for courses, but you shouldn't expect others to get excited about the things that excite you.

I don't think jwi has any subtext.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: abarro81 on January 31, 2013, 05:40:27 pm
Surely most climbers are interested in the process, not just the resulting name and grade?
+1
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on January 31, 2013, 09:24:58 pm
 :agree: definitely.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Clart on January 31, 2013, 11:35:24 pm

Its like the hype up before any big fixture in any other sport, both are looking round the course, commenting on interesting features that could play to their advantages, talking about tactics, about how they need to train for a certain move.


...totally, it's the foreplay. All this talk of the challenge and difficulty is getting me proper hard. I keep coming back here each day to see if there's any progress and get a bit more info here, a cupping of the balls there and then one day soon 'bang' the pent up excitement will erupt in a fountain of joy as one of the two worthy contenders succeeds on what could be the hardest climb in the world.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: andy popp on February 01, 2013, 06:17:49 am
Adam Ondra - very close in Dura Dura - www.easyclimbning.cz (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QKkP-kxlthQ#ws)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: ianv on February 01, 2013, 08:51:27 am
That looks amazing.

(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5063/5619294173_677da6ccb7.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/37621241@N05/5619294173/)
Picture1 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/37621241@N05/5619294173/#) by ianvincent (http://www.flickr.com/people/37621241@N05/), on Flickr

 :bow: :bow: :bow:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on February 01, 2013, 08:52:34 am
My word.  :o
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Pitcairn on February 01, 2013, 09:00:06 am
looks brilliant. compare how hard he is trying on that with how easy it looked when he onsighted 8c+ in RRG...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: standard on February 01, 2013, 09:03:38 am
cringe worthy, half hearted shout of 'psyche' at 1:50.

brilliant other than that.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Stewart on February 01, 2013, 09:21:13 am
cringe worthy, half hearted shout of 'psyche' at 1:50.


Is that Sharma? Is he there just now as well?

Some of those dyno's look crazy, slightly dissapointed with the temper tantrum though, heard better.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: hobblingfool on February 01, 2013, 09:53:48 am
This video is private  :'(
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Baldy on February 01, 2013, 11:27:07 am
Since I managed to watch it before it got privated - I'll give you a blow by blow account.

Sit down  :popcorn: this is going to be exciting.

He starts climbing, and does a jumpy move.
Apparently this one is quite hard because there are shouts in various languages from somewhere around the camera.

He then climbs a bit more, and takes a rest on a jug for a while.

He starts off again and does another big jumpy move - again followed by some shouting.
He climbs some more and goes for a throwy move, but unfortuantely falls off and screams a bit.

The scream was a little disappointing though, one decent yell but then he stops and starts slapping his legs a bit before lowering down...

I hope I did it justice.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on February 01, 2013, 11:38:08 am
That looks amazing.

(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5063/5619294173_677da6ccb7.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/37621241@N05/5619294173/)
Picture1 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/37621241@N05/5619294173/#) by ianvincent (http://www.flickr.com/people/37621241@N05/), on Flickr

 :bow: :bow: :bow:

Is that jwi and slackers at the front with hands in pockets.

i don't know how anyone with an interest in the progress of our sport can fail to be be interested in the progress being made on this route.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on February 01, 2013, 11:49:12 am
No, I'm just our of shot on the right, walking away.  :P
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: IanP on February 01, 2013, 11:53:23 am

i don't know how anyone with an interest in the progress of our sport can fail to be be interested in the progress being made on this route.

Agreed on the whole, though as has been said before each to their own.

However I definitialy don't know why anyone who isn't interested would feel the need to come on a thread like this (the clue is in the title!) to tell the rest of us that they aren't interested.

Good video btw.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: ducko on February 01, 2013, 12:26:35 pm
Ondra is an animal but I'd really like sharma to tick this first
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Danny on February 01, 2013, 12:37:52 pm
Wonder what the deal is with it being made private? Presumably given the two climbers involved the place is a veritable orgy of pro film makers. Did some amateur rock up at the bottom of the crag with his iphone and ruin the exclusivity?
     
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Baldy on February 01, 2013, 12:46:01 pm
How exciting, a hushup conspiracy!

Bigup using their brawn to force the little guy to stay quiet!

Down with the corporations! Placards at the ready!
:agree: :guilty: :guilty: :goodidea: :off: :spam: :spam: :oops: :agree: :offtopic: :offtopic: :sorry: :icon_welcome: :icon_welcome: :badidea:

Freedom of speech for the people!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: andy_e on February 01, 2013, 12:54:28 pm
These guys are on board:

(http://www.dollyrouge.ie/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/FatherTedCarefulNow.jpg)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: tim palmer on February 01, 2013, 01:11:18 pm
Ondra is an animal but I'd really like sharma to tick this first
he is not going to though is he?  Ondra is clearly miles ahead no?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on February 01, 2013, 01:13:18 pm
But Sharma's put the time in; homeground advantage?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: tim palmer on February 01, 2013, 01:21:45 pm
was that chaxi raxi thing a sharma project originally?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on February 01, 2013, 01:24:32 pm
Did some amateur rock up at the bottom of the crag with his iphone and ruin the exclusivity?
     

It is/was a decent vid (with 720p and 1080p options for playback on YouTube) and was using a tripod so probably not that.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Danny on February 01, 2013, 01:46:20 pm
Did some amateur rock up at the bottom of the crag with his iphone and ruin the exclusivity?
     

It is/was a decent vid (with 720p and 1080p options for playback on YouTube) and was using a tripod so probably not that.

Clearly, because amateurs never take HD camcorders or tripods to the crag these days, and easyclimbing.cz has high-profile partnerships with both climbers.

Not that I'm saying this is certainly an amateur job, it just looks like it probably is.

In any case, none of this should concern you, because it is distasteful, needless hype-building and no one has actually climbed anything yet.   
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on February 01, 2013, 01:52:09 pm
 :lol:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on February 01, 2013, 01:58:03 pm

Clearly, because amateurs never take HD camcorders or tripods to the crag these days, and easyclimbing.cz has high-profile partnerships with both climbers.

Not that I'm saying this is certainly an amateur job, it just looks like it probably is.

Let me be a little clearer then...I very much doubt it was shot on a camera phone.

In any case, none of this should concern you, because it is distasteful, needless hype-building and no one has actually climbed anything yet.

I didn't say I wasn't interested in the process.  You are however correct that I think the over-hyping of it into a race/competition as it was initially reported on 8a.nu is distasteful though.  My experience is that climbers are generally supportive of each other, even when they are working on the same project/problem regardless of the level at which they climb.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on February 01, 2013, 02:01:34 pm
I didn't say I wasn't interested in the process.

Just playing the Devil's Avocado again?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on February 01, 2013, 02:06:37 pm
Just playing the Devil's Avocado again?

More stating the obvious for Baldy who didn't realise that people are different.

 :off:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Danny on February 01, 2013, 02:10:11 pm
Lovely, glad we got that little miscommunication cleared up then.

Let me formally welcome you back into the hype-building fold with this giant foam finger, I presume you'll be rooting for Sharma:


(http://ec.comps.canstockphoto.com/can-stock-photo_csp6224376.jpg)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on February 01, 2013, 02:13:00 pm
Couldn't care less.

It'll be impressive when either of them get up it (which is where my interest lies rather than the faux competition).

 :offtopic:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: ianv on February 01, 2013, 02:36:38 pm
Quote
Cliff Burton was an amazing bass player....until the tour bus he was travelling in crashed throwing him out the window and crushing him when it toppled onto him.

 :off:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on February 01, 2013, 03:07:29 pm
Sorry thought about that afterwards and realised I should have used Wolfgang Gullich as an example.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Wood FT on February 01, 2013, 04:10:25 pm
Ondra is an animal but I'd really like sharma to tick this first
he is not going to though is he?  Ondra is clearly miles ahead no?

He looks to be.

I too would like this to be Sharma's swan song, or am I writing him off too early?

re: competition

It's a great thing, I couldn't care less about what 8a.fu says as I just dont read it. Hell even unfriendly competition is good in my book, there be legends and controversy. Life would be crap if we all got along.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: r-man on February 01, 2013, 04:14:08 pm
Teaser: Reel Rock - La Dura Dura (The Hard Hard) (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MtqkA8lZquE#ws)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: ducko on February 01, 2013, 05:22:05 pm
Be interesting too see who gets it it'll be awsome when either climber does to be honest,
Just think it would be nice to see sharma smash it
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: r-man on February 01, 2013, 05:37:19 pm
Worth posting here as well...

aruD aruD aL (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=588aedmbPs0#noexternalembed-ws)

Cusp @ 1.34
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: masonwoods101 on February 01, 2013, 05:45:32 pm
Yeah here may be better.... Cheers
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on February 01, 2013, 06:20:32 pm
Gonna be weird seeing the moves the right way round (yes I did google for desktop mirroring but didn't find much help in my short patience span). Nice interviews.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on February 02, 2013, 10:42:21 am
Ondra in battle mode. Love it
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on February 02, 2013, 03:00:57 pm
Battle mode? Is he Prince Adam with a Sword of Power then?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: standard on February 07, 2013, 04:41:33 pm
according to Joe Kinder on twitter, he's sent la dura dura.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: masonwoods101 on February 07, 2013, 04:47:49 pm
 :popcorn: I wanna see it! Hate to buy into the whole sharma vs ondra thing but was kinda egging on sharma in the reel rock clip
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: standard on February 07, 2013, 04:50:28 pm
confirmed: http://instagram.com/p/Vb8Zf0Ozqq/ (http://instagram.com/p/Vb8Zf0Ozqq/)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on February 07, 2013, 04:50:43 pm
................................ :o
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Krank on February 07, 2013, 04:53:54 pm
picture caption says worlds hardest sport route, 9c???
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on February 07, 2013, 04:54:31 pm
Harder 9b+ than the other 9b+, duh.

OR MAYBE IT COULD BE 9c OMGZ0R  :o
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on February 07, 2013, 05:13:29 pm
 :great: :dance1:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on February 07, 2013, 07:10:57 pm
So Sharma still came away with a consolation prize. Winners all round.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Krank on February 07, 2013, 07:30:41 pm
He's given it 9b+ but says its harder than Change.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: r-man on February 09, 2013, 03:11:18 pm
http://novebi.ning.com/profiles/blogs/two-friends-for-a-9b-adam-ondra-la-dura-dura-interview (http://novebi.ning.com/profiles/blogs/two-friends-for-a-9b-adam-ondra-la-dura-dura-interview)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: petejh on February 09, 2013, 04:07:31 pm
Found these quotes from the interview with Ondra interesting:
'... after two weeks of working the same route, it is very difficult to make further progress. That was quite surprising to me. The 3rd and 4th weeks on La Dura Dura were completely pointless, I was climbing one level below and no matter how efficiently I climbed, I couldn’t and didn’t progress.'

'If you don’t feel close after two or three weeks, better to give up for a while, train specifically for it and get back on it. Body will forget how to move in the route, but in a couple of days it is back.
Climbing a certain grade within 10 days of work doesn’t mean that you would climb another level if you worked for a year.'
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: JMB on February 09, 2013, 04:55:48 pm
Per spray.nu, Ondra made the 2nd ascent of Sharma's 9b route Fight Or Flight today.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: ianv on February 09, 2013, 06:48:56 pm
Per spray.nu, Ondra made the 2nd ascent of Sharma's 9b route Fight Or Flight today.

Machine!!   :bow: :bow:



Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Adam Lincoln on February 09, 2013, 06:50:12 pm
Per spray.nu, Ondra made the 2nd ascent of Sharma's 9b route Fight Or Flight today.

Anyone know if thats in a day?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: r-man on February 10, 2013, 02:55:21 pm
Quality ok if you select HD

Lots of rests - skip to 1.00 and 4.00 for the meat of the climbing.

Adam Ondra-Fight or Flight 9b, [url=http://www.easyclimbing.cz]www.easyclimbing.cz (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=45xlTby_S2A#ws)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: tomtom on February 10, 2013, 03:52:34 pm
Fantastic display of controlled aggression for the leap at 4:25 or so...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: ianv on February 10, 2013, 05:26:49 pm
Fantastic display of controlled aggression for the leap at 4:25 or so...

Especially as he had skipped the clip before it. He would have taken a mighty pisser if he hadn't made the move.  :strongbench:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Luke Owens on February 10, 2013, 07:45:38 pm
Impressive trip! 9b+ and 9b...!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: andy popp on February 10, 2013, 09:38:56 pm
Impressive trip! 9b+ and 9b...!

And a (wet) 9a+ at the start of the trip.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: r-man on February 10, 2013, 09:43:32 pm
A vid from 1 year ago. Been posted before but I missed it last time. 9b machine. From about 10.15 he gets a little pumped...

VIDEO: BD athlete Adam Ondra repeating Chilam Balam (9b) and making the first ascent of La Planta de Shiva (9b) in Spain on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/25514787)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on February 10, 2013, 09:49:26 pm
Two 8cs onsight in Cuenca
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: petejh on February 10, 2013, 10:59:32 pm
I don't know what's supposed to be cutting edge anymore. If next week Ondra did the FA of a 9b+, o/s'd an 8c+ and flashed a 9a+ I'd probably not be that surprised.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Baldy on February 11, 2013, 09:17:30 am
 :agree:

Someone needs to stop him.

He is breaking the sport - I thought these things were supposed to be hard?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on February 11, 2013, 10:36:23 am
Two 8cs onsight in Cuenca

They seem to be old-school offerings. If I get this
http://Desnivel.com/escalada-roca/adam-ondra-rel-calvario-del-sicarior-8c-a-vista (http://Desnivel.com/escalada-roca/adam-ondra-rel-calvario-del-sicarior-8c-a-vista)
right, El calvario del sicario has lost a few holds and is perhaps hard for its grade?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on February 11, 2013, 12:00:26 pm
Hopefully so, otherwise Ondra's onsight of an 8c is as newsworthy as myself doing a fingerboard session.
Anyway, he got to Cuenca at 4.30 in the morning, after a 9b+ and a 9b with just one day off, and he onsighted two hard 8c...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Luke Owens on February 11, 2013, 12:33:09 pm
I can't believe it's got to the point that his 9a/9a+ ascents are hardly news...!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on February 13, 2013, 11:47:51 am
Useful site (http://www.adamondra.com/) for Ondra-watch.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: psychomansam on February 13, 2013, 11:56:14 am
:agree:

Someone needs to stop him.

He is breaking the sport - I thought these things were supposed to be hard?

Still not onsighted 9a. Weak as a kitten.  :popcorn:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on February 13, 2013, 12:00:38 pm
The flash of Southern Smoke Direct (9a+) was quite impressive though.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on February 13, 2013, 12:10:06 pm
:agree:

Someone needs to stop him.

He is breaking the sport - I thought these things were supposed to be hard?

Yeah he's singlehandedly knackering the grade bellcurve. And pushing me right out the bottom.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Grubes on February 13, 2013, 12:33:01 pm
not only is he ruining the curve.
he also has sick dance skills that attracts all the ladies.
(http://i.imgur.com/g1Uok.gif)
(sorry for the repost

maybe we should all give up now?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: GCW on February 13, 2013, 02:06:37 pm
Yes, maybe we should. (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,14977.msg386593.html#msg386593)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: cowboyhat on February 13, 2013, 02:16:12 pm
Well worth a re-post.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on February 13, 2013, 02:19:36 pm
And pushing me right left out the bottom.

 :P :geek:  :-*

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Lopez on February 14, 2013, 12:58:39 pm
Still no cigar for Ondra.

Full on 9a onsight attempt in Cuenca. Pretty intense viewing this

ADAM ONDRA intenta a vista Palestina 9a en Cuenca (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Moz11eR8rEY#ws)

He tried another one the next day but apparently his foot slipped low down 
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on February 14, 2013, 04:08:33 pm
Ondra in failing to onsight 9a SHOCKER!

Such a beast, 55kg of pure syke.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on February 17, 2013, 09:15:48 am
Ondra profile (http://www.guardian.co.uk/theobserver/2013/feb/17/adam-ondra-climbing-czech-dura-profile) (nod to cofe and Nathan wind for the heads up).

Love the nod to Potter comparison (possibly UKB originated meme?).
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Bubba on February 17, 2013, 09:33:59 am
With the inevitable bitchy comments below about how it's not Trad (no shit).
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on February 17, 2013, 09:37:35 am
Yeah, shame its likely to get cluttered up with such shit.  :wank:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Falling Down on February 17, 2013, 12:32:21 pm
The fucking Indian Face  :wall:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on February 17, 2013, 12:34:09 pm
The fucking Indian Face  :wall:

It only took 3 posts as well! Amazing.  :chair:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on February 17, 2013, 03:21:45 pm
Its like the climbing version of Godwin's Law (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Godwin's_law) isn't it.


Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Stubbs on February 17, 2013, 04:01:58 pm
That's a very well researched and well written article for a mainstream paper, nothing about hanging from his fingertips or lack of safety ropes!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Falling Down on February 17, 2013, 04:24:59 pm
Its like the climbing version of Godwin's Law (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Godwin's_law) isn't it.

I had a comment ready to post suggesting the same thing but couldn't be arsed as I knew I'd have to go an check any responses and what a waste of energy that would be.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: r-man on February 19, 2013, 08:36:20 pm
Ondra writes about La Dura Dura (http://lasportiva.com/news_approfondimento0.html?&L=1&tx_ttnews%5Btt_news%5D=1747&cHash=0f3030bfa962120e73cf223903d73725)

Quote
nothing happened except clipping the chains of my hardest route up to date, and possibly the hardest in the world!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: r-man on February 26, 2013, 01:03:33 am
Adam Ondra en Somos cromosomos un proyecto que podría ser tan dura como La dura dura 9b+ (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FSMgnR2cKug#ws)

Apparently at least as hard as La Dura Dura.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Clart on February 26, 2013, 08:32:31 am
Adam Ondra en Somos cromosomos un proyecto que podría ser tan dura como La dura dura 9b+ (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FSMgnR2cKug#ws)

Apparently at least as hard as La Dura Dura.

Awesome footage! Looks like it'll go very soon.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on February 26, 2013, 09:48:48 am
I bet Barrows is going to spunk himself senseless at the sight of that kneebar rest  :lets_do_it_wild:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: El Mocho on February 26, 2013, 10:03:28 am
That sequence around the roof looks awesome!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: petejh on February 26, 2013, 06:48:25 pm
Shitting hell that looks amazing. Not afraid of a run out is he!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on February 28, 2013, 03:57:48 pm
Adam Ondra en Somos cromosomos un proyecto que podría ser tan dura como La dura dura 9b+ (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FSMgnR2cKug#ws)

Apparently at least as hard as La Dura Dura.

A translation from Reddit...

Quote
Post take:

Now, I am 2/3 the way through the climb. I have already climbed 20 meters of overhanging 9a/+; however, from here to the chain is 8 meters of 9a. In all, it could be 9+. perhaps this means 9b+? I think it needs even more work to send, but it's motivating. It's a good line with good movement - it motivates me to train and to return. It's difficult to compare with La Dura Dura because they are completely different styles. This is much more of an endurance climb because you have to do a very hard sequence at the top of the climb. While the crux of Dura Dura was harder, it was down low, while this one is at the top

Commence climbing

It's a big lateral movement to a sloper. You have a bunch of feet, but they're all terrible. After, there is a big move to a crimp with a thumbcatch. It's very difficult when you're tired to grab it perfectly, and if you don't grab it perfectly, you can't do anything off it. The crimp is very bad.

Voice-over stops, then he falls

The most difficult single movement is down low - because I'm fesh, it feels much easier then when I'm up here, super pumped. Here is the key section to the route. You get here super pumped and even though here there are two crimps that are good enough, you can't rest much. I think it's better to run it to the top. Here is a flat sidepull and here there are many feet to choose from, but now I don't know which are the best. Down low, there are good feet to make a move to pinch this crimp, but it's very hard to catch it perfectly. If I use the low feet, it's really hard to move them up - alternatively, if I start with the high feet, it's way harder to catch the pinch/crimp, but it's much easier to move my feet up aferwords. After, there are two dynmaic movements where you can definitely fall. All this to get yourself to the anchor not sure about the lest sentence. It sounds like he says "A un presento al fin" ... I dunno

Makes the moves and clips the chains

Resting, it's easy. After climbing the whole route... I don't know whn the next [estancia] is. Perhaps when his next trip is? Hopefully in two weeks. I don't know if I will be able to send, but I'm excited and hopeful
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: tomtom on February 28, 2013, 08:32:10 pm
Some Ondra humour..

http://youtu.be/9AU8fMo8v4k (http://youtu.be/9AU8fMo8v4k)

(from Willackers via Faceache)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: habrich on March 01, 2013, 03:37:58 am
All over Facebook today. I was expecting the video to finally segue into the great man's recently-gone-viral dance moves?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on March 01, 2013, 06:52:12 am
Me too
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on March 01, 2013, 07:49:28 am
+1

Someone should make that video.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: r-man on March 01, 2013, 07:32:28 pm
Interview with Adam Ondra at f.re.e Munich 2013 on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/60809511)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: a dense loner on March 02, 2013, 02:53:48 am
Good interview
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: habrich on April 30, 2013, 08:06:56 pm
Adam Ondra - A few forgotten 9a routes... on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/65128823)

Some mad Quarryman-esque action around 6:00
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: dontfollowme on April 30, 2013, 09:58:34 pm
Incredible.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: James Malloch on April 30, 2013, 10:34:15 pm
Incredible.

You say that but one route was "a mere 9a" and he implied a lack of strength after getting "a little pumped" on a 9a+...

Crazy climbing!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: krymson on May 01, 2013, 04:01:04 am
I thought I understood climbing until I saw this video
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on May 01, 2013, 07:44:09 am
Change the Movie (http://www.change-movie.com/video)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Muenchener on May 01, 2013, 10:53:11 pm
Some mad Quarryman-esque action around 6:00

Brilliant. The sequence at the start, repeating the 9a+ in Slovenia in the damp, shows more clearly than anything else I've seen just how hard hard climbing really is. And that disappointingly easy 9a thing in the cave in Czech is just amazing.

If these were outtakes from The Wizard's Apprentice then somebody's editing judgement is really called into question.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Clart on May 03, 2013, 07:57:33 am

If these were outtakes from The Wizard's Apprentice then somebody's editing judgement is really called into question.

 :agree:

Also I hope all the footage of the new film 'Change' won't be released on the internet as clips before the film is released.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on May 08, 2013, 05:46:14 pm
Another 8c+ onsight: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68039 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68039)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: masonwoods101 on May 08, 2013, 07:07:42 pm
 :yawn: another?... Can't even onsight 9a... Wonder what monstrosity of a route he will try in Norway....
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: duncan on June 17, 2013, 09:38:05 am
Promo for 'Change'.

North Norway looking glorious. I want that house on the Fjord (... for three months of the year).

Adam Ondra - Change - Backstage movie (http://player.vimeo.com/video/68469466)

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on June 17, 2013, 11:24:46 am
Looks like it will be a very good film all round.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: cheque on July 09, 2013, 12:17:13 pm
From Montura's Facebook page:

(https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/1004058_581445771907129_2024218066_n.jpg)

“It was my challenge for more than two years”, with these words Adam Ondra has announced his first 9a onsight. The route is called “Cabane au Canada” on the cliff of Rawyl, Switzerland. Another great achievement made by the Montura athlete, who once again amazes us with his talent, diligence and determination.

 :bow:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Luke Owens on July 09, 2013, 12:22:07 pm
From Montura's Facebook page:

(https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/1004058_581445771907129_2024218066_n.jpg)

“It was my challenge for more than two years”, with these words Adam Ondra has announced his first 9a onsight. The route is called “Cabane au Canada” on the cliff of Rawyl, Switzerland. Another great achievement made by the Montura athlete, who once again amazes us with his talent, diligence and determination.

 :bow:

Awesome! I knew it wouldn't be long!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Wood FT on July 09, 2013, 12:25:45 pm
 :bow:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Grubes on July 09, 2013, 12:26:27 pm
 :bow:
was only a matter of time
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on July 09, 2013, 12:26:46 pm
I thought he might run out of onsightable 9as to try. Glad he got one
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: iain on July 09, 2013, 12:51:13 pm
I thought he might run out of onsightable 9as to try. Glad he got one
me too, fantastic  :clap2:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: lukeyboy on July 09, 2013, 01:06:28 pm
Hurray!  :2thumbsup: I've missed Ondrawatch...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: abarro81 on July 09, 2013, 01:33:31 pm
Judging by the photos in the 8a.nu gallery of the crag, I don't think that's a photo of the route, which looks awesome:
www.8a.nu/gallery/Image.aspx?ImageId=77240 (http://www.8a.nu/gallery/Image.aspx?ImageId=77240)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: JamieG on July 09, 2013, 01:50:18 pm
Judging by the photos in the 8a.nu gallery of the crag, I don't think that's a photo of the route, which looks awesome:
www.8a.nu/gallery/Image.aspx?ImageId=77240 (http://www.8a.nu/gallery/Image.aspx?ImageId=77240)

The photos from facebook looks like the Flatanger (sp?) cave in Norway where he did Change.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: masonwoods101 on July 09, 2013, 01:51:11 pm
Looks Awsome...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Duma on July 09, 2013, 02:59:03 pm
 :bow:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Rocksteady on July 09, 2013, 04:40:16 pm
Legend, glad he's got one. Imagine the sound effects were epic.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: lukeyboy on July 09, 2013, 04:46:05 pm
Judging by the photos in the 8a.nu gallery of the crag, I don't think that's a photo of the route, which looks awesome:
www.8a.nu/gallery/Image.aspx?ImageId=77240 (http://www.8a.nu/gallery/Image.aspx?ImageId=77240)

That looks incredible. Presumably he's run out of single pitch 9a's to try by now  :lol:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on July 09, 2013, 05:15:43 pm
(http://www.lizardclimbing.com/medien/fotos/news/artikelfotos/IMG_0444.jpg)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: lukeyboy on July 12, 2013, 01:25:41 pm
Interview (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=41039)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on July 12, 2013, 01:44:54 pm
Quote
I saw it for the first time last night, in the last rays of sun it looked absolutely amazing and I knew I just had to climb it. I was so excited I couldn't fall asleep, even though I knew I had to wake up early.
Good lad :)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Baldy on July 12, 2013, 03:25:55 pm
Quote
Well, I tried a route which I thought was 8a and fell off at about half-height. But I wasn't that worried because I then found out that it wasn't even in the guidebook. I then ran around and flapped my arms as best I could and then set off.

Inspirational words from the bigman
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on July 12, 2013, 10:11:07 pm
My french is shaky (I had german in school) but Kairn reports (?) (http://www.kairn.com/fr/escalade/89505/ondra-realise-la-premiere-de-l-integrale-de-torture-physique-9a-b.html) that Adam Ondra onsighted Torture Physic, 9a, just before doing La cabane, but downgraded it to easy 8c+. He also did a fa of an extension of Torture at 9a+/b
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Rocksteady on July 15, 2013, 04:59:19 pm
This picture needs more explanation. Or has it caught the secret of Ondra's success on camera? A pre-climb ninja gurn, for strength?

(http://j.ukc2.com/i/223497.jpg?v=5324)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on July 15, 2013, 05:00:55 pm
Demonstration of crux move :shrug:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: IanP on August 05, 2013, 04:55:37 pm
Has it now got to the point that a new 9b isn't news where Ondra is concerned?

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68263 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68263)

Tough crowd!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Wood FT on August 05, 2013, 05:01:06 pm
that's a cracking photo, rose et le ondrawad
Title: Re: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on August 05, 2013, 07:42:00 pm
that's a cracking photo, rose et le ondrawad

It is. Although crossing through off a minging crimp to a flared finger lock looks a tad harder than the Rose's nice juggy drilled pockets!

How times change.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: JMB on August 05, 2013, 07:56:53 pm
Has it now got to the point that a new 9b isn't news where Ondra is concerned?

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68263 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68263)

Tough crowd!

Ondra has succeeded in making 9b boring, surely one of his greatest achievements.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: gme on August 06, 2013, 07:59:31 am
I was lucky enough to see him on this last week. Amazing route, took a load of pictures that I can post up when I get them off my camera.
Flatanger is a special place. The limited climbing I did was top quality and what's left to do defies belief.
Ondra is in love with the place and I is spending the rest of the summer there.

Great place for the family as well, good biking, good walking, boating, canoeing and great fishing. Pretty much lived on fresh fish.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: r-man on August 15, 2013, 03:15:57 pm
(http://www.planetmountain.com/img/1/19428.jpg)

Quote
Adam Ondra attempting the upper crux on the new project at Flatanger in Norway. Photo by Seb Bouin
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: tomtom on August 15, 2013, 03:54:57 pm
I power squawked in sympathy when I saw that picture..
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Rocksteady on August 16, 2013, 10:22:11 am
Flatanger is a special place. The limited climbing I did was top quality and what's left to do defies belief.
Ondra is in love with the place and I is spending the rest of the summer there.

Great place for the family as well, good biking, good walking, boating, canoeing and great fishing. Pretty much lived on fresh fish.

Sorry  :offtopic: but what level of development has Flatanger seen? Are there climbs in the 7s for the average punter? Or is it all 8s and 9s?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: gme on August 16, 2013, 10:57:16 am
The development there is in its infancy but there is enough there to keep most happy for a few weeks as long as you like to redpoint stuff, if you want a ticking onsighting trip you would run out of stuff to do. Loads of very good 6s both bolted and trad on the crags outside the cave.

In the cave there is basically  around 10 routes of most ranges ie low 7s, high 7s, low 8s, high 8s etc. However i would think that there will be more and more rapidly, its not due to lack of rock, or that there is no scope for 7s and 8s, but due to lack of development. There is a crag just round the corner that must be three times the size of Kilnsey without a route on it.

Berit and Olav Strom that own the place are incredibly friendly and welcoming, treating my kids like there own including taking us out fishing in there boat. They are keen on pushing the whole climbing thing and opening up new crags and developing the campsite, which at present is a field and the use of there own downstairs bathroom in the farmhouse. They have produced a guidebook and now have a Facebook page.

I personally fell in love with the place, as did Helen and the kids who don't really climb, there is something a bit magical about it, a bit like Ceuse was in the late 80s early 90s. We were not on a climbing trip but i couldn't resist a look as we were passing, ended up staying for 4 days even though i only climbed for about 3 hours one morning. Rest of the time was fishing, biking and walking.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on August 16, 2013, 12:12:13 pm
In the cave there is basically  around 10 routes of most ranges ie low 7s, high 7s, low 8s, high 8s, soft 9bs etc
HTH. Sounds really nice, good report.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SEDur on August 16, 2013, 03:59:24 pm

Berit and Olav Strom that own the place are incredibly friendly and welcoming, treating my kids like there own including taking us out fishing in there boat. They are keen on pushing the whole climbing thing and opening up new crags and developing the campsite, which at present is a field and the use of there own downstairs bathroom in the farmhouse. They have produced a guidebook and now have a Facebook page.

For the lazy among us, have you got any links?
Whats the area like for walks/MTB/Fishing etc?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: gme on August 16, 2013, 04:19:18 pm
I do not have the technical ability to link to a facebook page sorry. i am sure you can find it. Full photo sequence of his last 9b on my facebook page but agin i have no idea how i get them on here.

The fishing is out of this world if your even vaguely competent and i have no doubt i could easily live off fish there. We had Cod to over 6lbs casting about 50 yards with a spinning rod, pollock and mackerel all day long. great spot 10mins from the campsite. If your really into it check out fishing in Flatanger, the Brit and German anglers have been going there for years on package deals and catch Cod to 40lbs, Halibut to 5 0lbs  Pollack over 20 from the shore regularly. There is a big angling festival there every year in Feb for the very reason that its so good. Nearby Namos has the best Salmon fishing in the world, but it costs. Trout and pike in pretty much every lake and there's lots.

Check out this video from the area if your really interested (my youngest is obsessed)

Fishing In Norway 50 Pound Halibut Caught From Shore (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-nbaPI8KLlw#ws)

I didnt get off road on the bikes as with the kids but i cant believe its not good. The walking is superb but little in the way of paths. however you can go where you want as there is full public access to all land.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on August 16, 2013, 04:46:03 pm
I do not have the technical ability to link to a facebook page sorry.[/url]

At the top of your browser is an address bar that starts with 'http://', copy this when looking at the relevant page (whether its Farcebook or anything else).  Click on the line, then press Ctrl + A to select it all followed by Ctrl + C to copy it.

Then paste it into a forum message (Ctrl + V to paste).

Hit submit and the link will appear in your post.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: gme on August 16, 2013, 05:08:02 pm
Tried that and it didnt work only the links came up. Tried something else and got this. Think it works but you have to click to open.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/1175549_430908887023728_301845164_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/972336_430908763690407_1751973782_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/561536_430908670357083_1734809742_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc1/1002494_430908547023762_979018419_n.jpg

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: lukeyboy on August 16, 2013, 06:13:42 pm
Tried that and it didnt work only the links came up. Tried something else and got this. Think it works but you have to click to open.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/1175549_430908887023728_301845164_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/972336_430908763690407_1751973782_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/561536_430908670357083_1734809742_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc1/1002494_430908547023762_979018419_n.jpg

Good pics. Ondra's got a pretty amazing t-shirt tan going on there...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: JackAus on August 21, 2013, 12:28:51 pm
From 8a:

Quote
9b or 9b+ FA by Adam Ondra in Flatanger
 
On his last day in Flatanger, Adam Ondra made the FA of Move and it will be either 9b or 9b+. Now Adam is going to start his University studies
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SEDur on August 21, 2013, 01:04:55 pm
If where-ever Mr Ondra goes to university, has a climbing club; I feel jealous of those who will get to climb with him.
They will learn so much.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: abarro81 on August 21, 2013, 02:27:52 pm
I don't think Mr Ondra will be part of his university's climbing club...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on August 21, 2013, 02:34:31 pm
Be an interesting Fresher's weekend if he does. I somehow doubt toproping diffs at Stanage will be on the agenda.

And great he got it done!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: willackers on August 21, 2013, 07:26:15 pm
I reckon he's going to start Uni, stop climbing and get heavily into techno and going out on the raz.

 :pissed:  :dance1:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on August 21, 2013, 08:06:32 pm
Czechs must like some pretty beastly techno I reckon  :punk:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on August 22, 2013, 09:47:41 am
We've seen his moves out on da 'floor. They aren't going to get him any.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on August 22, 2013, 04:13:58 pm
Few words from the boy/man/god himself: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68293 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68293)

9a in to a bad rest in to another 9a. Sounds pretty tricky.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: JackAus on August 23, 2013, 10:50:54 pm
Working Move:

ADAM ONDRA - WORKING MOVE 9B/+ on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/72992600)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on August 23, 2013, 11:05:45 pm
Just bloody great  :bow:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Wil on August 23, 2013, 11:28:03 pm
Holy shit. I was watching thinking he's making this look really fluid, then he hit that crux. Looks bonkers.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: douglas on August 24, 2013, 12:09:35 am
If he bulked up a bit and got stronger in the body, Ondra could climb harder.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: krymson on August 24, 2013, 01:48:56 am
sounds like he needs some contrast training
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: abarro81 on August 24, 2013, 08:28:59 am
Fucking punt doesn't know what's good for him, letting his deadlifting slide all this time.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on August 24, 2013, 10:24:15 am
If he bulked up a bit and got stronger in the body, Ondra could climb harder.

Huh? What are you talking about? For his length Ondra has very good core strength. I have almost never seen him sag.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: lukeyboy on August 24, 2013, 09:26:17 pm
Good video.

Quote from: Adam Ondra
The route can be divided into two sections; 35m of pumpy 9a, and then 10m of really bouldery 9a, which doesn't sound that bad...

Hmmm....
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on August 24, 2013, 09:51:30 pm
45m of pumpy 9a....  :chair:

Serious business. Love watching him climbing, particularly the transition from warp-speed fluidity to shoulder-massacring bouldering. Love the syke as always.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on August 26, 2013, 07:38:20 am
From the actual ascent of Move (well, bar some 8b climbing in the start)

Adam Ondra - Move - First ascent.mov on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/73040942)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: krymson on August 26, 2013, 04:33:29 pm
That is so freakin fast. :o

In "A few forgotten 9a's" there was a section i thought was sped up. Now i'm not so sure
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Wood FT on August 26, 2013, 04:43:51 pm
the sequence at 3.01 was :ninja:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: finbarrr on August 26, 2013, 08:26:34 pm
 
:bow:

his climbing just seems to get better and better, soo impressive
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on September 26, 2013, 08:49:34 am
Pair of new 9a+s to add to the collection.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68373 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68373)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Muenchener on September 26, 2013, 09:38:03 am
What is the world coming to, when two 9a+s is barely news?

(See also "Sharma repeats Australian 8c". As a warm up, presumably)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: nash1 on September 26, 2013, 11:25:56 am
It is outrageous.
Until Flatanger and Ondra happened to Norway there were only 4 8c's in the country, only one of them has been repeated by someone other than Ondra.
He has basically dragged the country in the modern era alone. Pure class.

I wonder if anyone will ever put in the effort to repeat these things? It is not exactly Catalunya up here?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: gme on September 26, 2013, 11:46:33 am
I think a lot of the routes up there have been repeated, up to 9a anyway. Plus 9a first ascents by others. Re the harder 9a+ > routes dont see many of them getting repeated that often in catalunya either.

I think this place with be the "go to" summer venue for the top boys within a year or two. Ticks all the boxes. If i had lots of free time again its where i would head over ceuse.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: petejh on September 26, 2013, 07:09:23 pm
This stat on 8a.spray blew me away:

Quote
In total, the 20 year old has now done 82 9a's and harder, which is more than double than the runner up, Chris Sharma, on this list. The number of 9a+ and harder is 28, out of which 19 is FAs.

Wonder how many grade 9's he'll have done by the time he reaches age 40.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on September 26, 2013, 08:45:55 pm
Since you asked...since 2008 he's held pretty steadily at around 12.5 grade 9s per year. Assuming he doesnt go on a binge and start doing 30 9as in a year he'll have done about 330 9s by the time he's 40 (guessing a fair chunk of those will have to be FAs!)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on September 26, 2013, 09:08:36 pm
Not far off 100 9's  :o
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: finbarrr on September 26, 2013, 10:39:30 pm
Since you asked...since 2008 he's held pretty steadily at around 12.5 grade 9s per year. Assuming he doesnt go on a binge and start doing 30 9as in a year he'll have done about 330 9s by the time he's 40 (guessing a fair chunk of those will have to be FAs!)

he might cut down on the 9a's though, and focus on the 9b+'s and 9c's
then again, by that time he might be doing 9a's for warm-ups
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: ianto9 on September 26, 2013, 11:41:39 pm
he still needs to go do hubble, big bang liquid amber i.e some of the originals, then get his ass kicked on the diamond then re-grade everything ha,he seems unstoppable
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: cowboyhat on September 27, 2013, 02:18:08 pm
YEAH!

Whats he done on Stanage? Fucking punter.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: gme on September 27, 2013, 02:24:42 pm
I cant see him coming back soon unless Steve does his thing at Malham. He loved malaham and Kilnsey but generally thought that Ravens tor was "not the best crag i have ever been too" or something along those lines.

I dont know if he ever ventured down to Wales to be rained on during his visits, i am sure he would be just blown away by the cave!!!!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: petejh on September 27, 2013, 02:53:19 pm
He'd be blown away by The Diamond - it's world class. (and he could put up new routes at 9a and above there without them being link-ups...  :P)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: willackers on September 27, 2013, 02:55:19 pm
I cant see him coming back soon unless Steve does his thing at Malham. He loved malaham and Kilnsey but generally thought that Ravens tor was "a pile of shit" or something along those lines.

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on September 27, 2013, 03:40:55 pm
Pile of shit or not, he couldn't even do all the moves on Hubble, and he's capable of bouldering 8b/+ in the middle of a 50 meters route.
I'd rather do Hubble than La Dura Dura or Change or any other route in the world.
No doubt about that.
But I'm just me.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: petejh on September 27, 2013, 04:38:19 pm
Even more so now it's going to have the cachet of being the worlds' first 9a. That should attract more interest from foreign wads for a start.

... so they can drive past the Tor without realising 'that's it'.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Stubbs on September 27, 2013, 04:46:05 pm
And then once they've realised that is the Tor then have the massive disappointment of being shown where Hubble goes...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: abarro81 on September 27, 2013, 04:50:26 pm
Pile of shit or not, he couldn't even do all the moves on Hubble, and he's capable of bouldering 8b/+ in the middle of a 50 meters route.
I'd rather do Hubble than La Dura Dura or Change or any other route in the world.
No doubt about that.
But I'm just on crack.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on September 27, 2013, 04:59:39 pm
Pile of shit or not, he couldn't even do all the moves on Hubble, and he's capable of bouldering 8b/+ in the middle of a 50 meters route.
I'd rather do Hubble than La Dura Dura or Change or any other route in the world.
No doubt about that.
But I'm just on crack.
I wanted to write a response revolving around the fact that one can't kneebar his way up Hubble, but being a gentleman, I won't.
 :tease:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: abarro81 on September 27, 2013, 05:11:12 pm
(http://i2.wp.com/climbingnarc.com/wp-content/images/DaveGrahamOnTheRoadInTheUK_7ED9/davegrahamhubble.jpg?resize=540%2C359)
(http://25.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_lzza8nhQI11r2ubiyo1_500.jpg)

You quite sure about that..?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on September 27, 2013, 08:14:59 pm
Don't give him ideas Nibs ;) well he won't come to LPT on Alex Megos's recommendation that's for sure.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on September 28, 2013, 10:56:46 am
Graham didn't do it, so...
Good eyes, by the way, Alex. I'd seen that pic many times and I'd never noticed the kneepad. We see what we want to see, I guess.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: gme on September 28, 2013, 04:34:08 pm
It would truly be a sad day indeed if Hubble was reduced in stature by some kneebaring faggotry like another well known test peice.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: ian dunn on October 08, 2013, 06:16:00 pm
Ondra's been at it again two 8c+ boulders V16 check out the video ADAM ONDRA 2 V16s (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QeR47AQ05Jo#)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: gme on October 08, 2013, 06:20:24 pm
Couple of years old I think.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: iwasmexican on October 08, 2013, 07:29:37 pm
god supernova looks rubbish...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on October 09, 2013, 09:19:36 am
Couple of years old I think.

The ascents are old so not new news, but the video itself was only posted online by Reel Rock on the 7th October 2013 (probably part of one of their previous Reel Rock Tours and being used to promote the upcoming 8th Tour).

god supernova looks rubbish...

Its Terranova in that video. Adam says its not an aesthetic line.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: iwasmexican on October 09, 2013, 09:45:47 am
god supernova looks rubbish...

Its Terranova in that video. Adam says its not an aesthetic line.
[/quote]

doh.

still didnt realise it was quite that low...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on October 09, 2013, 09:11:57 pm
Terranova looks like something Gaskins would find on Peak Limestone  :shit:

Goia looks very impressive, great footage on that!  :strongbench:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: 220bpm on October 09, 2013, 09:46:02 pm
First time I've seen Gioia from that angle, didn't realise quite how overhanging it is.
Beautiful line and the moves look horrendous, yet also delicious :)

That other thing is a turdbucket masquerading as a V16. 
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Stubbs on October 09, 2013, 10:06:41 pm
It's not as if they lingered on Terranova!
- It's at his local crag.
- He say's it's not the best but you learn something form every climb.
- even if it's shit it's till a fuckload harder than anything we will ever climb.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: i_a_coops on October 09, 2013, 10:23:18 pm
Well I think Terranova looks cool....  :whistle:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Footwork on October 09, 2013, 11:41:32 pm
No kneebars though Ian ;D
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on October 10, 2013, 12:02:17 am
Good film. Always said Core should have had more recognition for that problem. He was way ahead of the game.

Any other confirmed 8C+ problems in the world?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on October 10, 2013, 10:25:47 am
Core is a proper beast. There are many fun stories from when he used to compete!
From my personal point of view, if it weren't for his religious-karmic-hippish whispered ramblings (the likes of "God is a boulderer"...) he would be a true idol of mine.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Dave Flanagan on October 10, 2013, 10:37:35 am
Core is a proper beast. There are many fun stories from when he used to compete!
From my personal point of view, if it weren't for his religious-karmic-hippish whispered ramblings (the likes of "God is a boulderer"...) he would be a true idol of mine.

Sound man too. Met him very briefly in Magic Wood years ago. Had a chat and he showed us the moves on an 7a we where tying. Needless to say he made it look pretty easy.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: cowboyhat on October 10, 2013, 11:01:50 am
Core is a proper beast. There are many fun stories from when he used to compete!
From my personal point of view, if it weren't for his religious-karmic-hippish whispered ramblings (the likes of "God is a boulderer"...) he would be a true idol of mine.

Wise words at the end there though, "the gifted have great responsibility" etc.

Luckily it turns out Adam Ondra is the most motivated person ever.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: krymson on October 10, 2013, 11:01:52 am
In the video even though he wasn't the main focus he certainly seemed like a gentleman. I actually enjoyed the way he spoke as well.

If he's actually a bit kooky I'm glad I don't speak Italian - he comes across as quite a cool dude in the little I've seen of him.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: JackAus on October 10, 2013, 11:05:26 am
I've heard in an interview (not yet released) that Paul Robinson said Gioia is "a grovelly sharp shit traverse" (think I've got the exact quote from memory...).
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on October 10, 2013, 11:25:27 am
I talked to a fox about grapes, he did not like them. Said they were sour
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on October 10, 2013, 11:41:08 am
I've heard in an interview (not yet released) that Paul Robinson said Gioia is "a grovelly sharp shit traverse" (think I've got the exact quote from memory...).

You sure he wasn't referring to Terranova?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on October 10, 2013, 11:41:11 am

Wise words at the end there though, "the gifted have great responsibility" etc.



I thought that was nonce sense.  You could be a very gifted climber, but if you never even try climbing you wouldn't know you were gifted so why should or how could you be shouldered with a responsibility for a gift you don't know you have?

Even if you do participate in whatever you happen to be "gifted" at, theres no obligation for you to continue doing it at all.  Its the individuals life and if they'd rather go and pursue other activities thats entirely their business.

I talked to a fox about grapes, he did not like them. Said they were sour

 :lol:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: r-man on October 10, 2013, 11:58:35 am
Any other confirmed 8C+ problems in the world?
Splitting hairs here, but are people classing Gioia as confirmed 8C+? Core originally suggested 8C (http://www.climbing.com/news/possible-v15-in-italy/), Ondra suggested 8C+ (http://www.8a.nu/?IncPage=http%3A//www.8a.nu/articles/ShowArticle.aspx%3FArticleId%3D8161).

Wise words at the end there though, "the gifted have great responsibility" etc.
Would have been better if he'd done the voice...

"With great power comes great responsibility"

(http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/9/9b/Yoda_Empire_Strikes_Back.png) (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Voltaire)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: JackAus on October 10, 2013, 12:05:51 pm
I've heard in an interview (not yet released) that Paul Robinson said Gioia is "a grovelly sharp shit traverse" (think I've got the exact quote from memory...).

You sure he wasn't referring to Terranova?

Definitely Gioia. Not sure if he's tried Terranova.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: highrepute on October 10, 2013, 01:26:55 pm
Would have been better if he'd done the voice...

"With great power comes great responsibility"

Uncle Ben's "With Great Power comes Great Responsibility" (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-o308cW0hKI#ws)
I'm pretty sure Yoda never said this. Spiderman's uncle on the other hand.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: r-man on October 10, 2013, 02:18:44 pm
"With great power comes great responsibility"
I'm pretty sure Yoda never said this. Spiderman's uncle on the other hand.

I think you're right, though it seems to be an internet meme. I guessed someone might spot this - click the Yoda picture above for an earlier source than Spiderman. I can't prove it via youtube though.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Stubbs on October 10, 2013, 03:01:56 pm
I talked to a fox about grapes, he did not like them. Said they were sour

So good!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on October 10, 2013, 07:47:18 pm
That ll be why Robinson didn't do Gioia, because it's shit. Not that it was too hard or anything...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nick B on October 10, 2013, 07:52:26 pm
 :jab:
That ll be why Robinson didn't do Gioia, because it's shit. Not that it was too hard or anything...

Seem I remember he didn't have anything good to say about Livin Large either...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on October 10, 2013, 07:55:18 pm
:jab:
That ll be why Robinson didn't do Gioia, because it's shit. Not that it was too hard or anything...

Seem I remember he didn't have anything good to say about Livin Large either...

And that's blatantly shit!  :shit:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on October 10, 2013, 08:13:32 pm
I get the impression the top boys are not in agreement about the existence of 8c+. Nalle tried Gioio too and he reckons we haven't hit 8c+ yet. It could be that they're all bitter about getting spanked by a sport climber though  :ras:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on October 10, 2013, 09:29:35 pm
Yeah fucking stamina punter Ondra  :ras:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: lukeyboy on October 22, 2013, 01:08:34 pm
Some slightly disappointing news (http://www.norsk-klatring.no/Ute/Klippe/Ticklisten-til-verdens-beste) (I think so anyway) - sounds as though Ondra will be focussing on comps next year rather than rock. Maybe he's sick of FA's and is waiting for someone else to put up a route hard enough for him to bother trying...

Still, suffice to say he'll probably get a bit done in those "couple of short trips"!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: krymson on October 22, 2013, 01:21:48 pm
I get the impression the top boys are not in agreement about the existence of 8c+. Nalle tried Gioio too and he reckons we haven't hit 8c+ yet. It could be that they're all bitter about getting spanked by a sport climber though  :ras:

So Nalle didn't send Gioia  and says that? that doesn't make any sense.
Send it and then make your thoughts known, otherwise shut up.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: r-man on October 22, 2013, 01:24:04 pm
Ondra will be focussing on comps next year rather than rock.

This has been on the cards for a while. Wouldn't be surprised if he comes out of it even stronger than before, which can't be a bad thing for the future of sport climbing.

It would be interesting (though probably unlikely) to see some of the current comp beasts take a year off and focus on outdoor FA's. Wonder what Rustam or Dmitri could achieve it they set their minds to it...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: gme on October 29, 2013, 12:36:10 pm
Three 9as in a day. Proper ones as well.
All a bit unbelievable really.
And hardly anyone bats an eyelid now.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on October 29, 2013, 12:38:09 pm
 :great:

Daniel Jung, The Elder Statesman (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sdqAV-ZkXfU#ws)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on October 29, 2013, 12:51:27 pm
Quote
Adam Ondra had an amazing day yesterday in Frankenjura where he quickly did three 9a's;
The Elder Statesman, "Close to flashing, fired it off 20mins later. Thanks for beta Alex! 1st 9a of the day."
The House of Shock, "Tough bouldering on tiny holds... 2nd 9a of the day, the hardest of the three.
Sever the Wicked Hand, "Tried two days before in severe humidity, now did it 1st go while clipping the draws in. 3rd 9a of the day, even though this one must be pretty soft."
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: cheque on October 29, 2013, 01:13:34 pm
9a putting the clips in.  8)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on October 30, 2013, 10:33:46 am
Doing just one 8a as a warm-up doesn't warm my fingers enough. (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=41338)  :clap2:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on October 30, 2013, 12:39:10 pm
I guess it's possible when your top grades 9b+. Still ridiculous though
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on November 04, 2013, 12:46:39 pm
First comp, first victory.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on November 04, 2013, 01:16:25 pm
vid here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lnNblXHorKQ&feature=share&t=41m31s (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lnNblXHorKQ&feature=share&t=41m31s)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: GraemeA on November 04, 2013, 01:35:03 pm
The trip over the light was classic.

He was one happy bunny.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Luke Owens on November 04, 2013, 01:48:39 pm
Are the comps just to top up his bank account or a sponser's thing? (or both)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: GraemeA on November 04, 2013, 02:08:34 pm
Are the comps just to top up his bank account or a sponser's thing? (or both)

No he was genuinely pleased to be competing (and winning).

he is at university now so doesn't have time for trips to eg Flatanger so he is doing the comps including the full circuit next year
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Luke Owens on November 04, 2013, 02:41:16 pm
No he was genuinely pleased to be competing (and winning).

he is at university now so doesn't have time for trips to eg Flatanger so he is doing the comps including the full circuit next year

Fair play, sounds like it would be ideal with him being in University.

Any idea what he's studying? I find it strange to think he'd carry on studying when he could clearly live off climbing.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Grubes on November 04, 2013, 02:48:15 pm
I guess with climbing (and most sports) you are one very bad day away from retirement. So worth while getting a back up plan.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: John Gillott on November 04, 2013, 02:59:49 pm
He might enjoy his studies / find them worthwhile as well (see also Landman).
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: r-man on November 20, 2013, 12:24:26 pm
Interview

http://adventure.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/adventurers-of-the-year/2014/adam-ondra/ (http://adventure.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/adventurers-of-the-year/2014/adam-ondra/)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on November 20, 2013, 12:42:35 pm
The yanks still call Biographie the worlds first 9a+ ignoring Akira (unconfirmed) and Open Air (confirmed).
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: north_country_boy on November 20, 2013, 12:55:19 pm
The yanks still call Biographie the worlds first 9a+ ignoring Akira (unconfirmed) and Open Air (confirmed).

The yanks  believe a lot of things which are factual incorrect and/or false.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: standard on November 20, 2013, 02:01:08 pm
to be fair, huber graded id 9a. Ondra upgraded it in 2008, and i doubt many 'yanks' are aware of this.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on November 20, 2013, 02:06:38 pm
to be fair, huber graded id 9a. Ondra upgraded it in 2008, and i doubt many 'yanks' are aware of this.

No excuse for not doing the research  ;)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Sasquatch on November 20, 2013, 05:06:28 pm
Nah, it's classic Yank ego.  Sharma was the first to do 9a+, so therefore the others don't exist.  ;D
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on November 20, 2013, 05:13:10 pm
I was going to say something similar but you're better qualified in that respect.... :-)
Title: Ondrawad
Post by: dave on November 20, 2013, 05:14:49 pm
Didn't someone recently go and do Akira or was that just a beautiful dream?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on November 20, 2013, 05:16:08 pm
There's also the classic French ego which demands that the route still be called Biographie.

Which is sort of ironic.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on November 20, 2013, 05:27:05 pm
Nah, it's classic Yank ego.  Sharma was the first to do 9a+,   5.15 a so therefore the others don't exist.  ;D
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on November 20, 2013, 05:28:56 pm
There's also the classic French ego which demands that the route still be called Biographie.

I think it's fair until Realisation is spelt properly (not with a bloody z!)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: ianv on November 20, 2013, 05:32:06 pm
There's also the classic French ego which demands that the route still be called Biographie.

Which is sort of ironic.

It's the French way, the equipped names the route not the first ascentist. La plafond is another example.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: mark on November 20, 2013, 07:14:03 pm
There's also the classic French ego which demands that the route still be called Biographie.

Which is sort of ironic.

It's the French way, the equipped names the route not the first ascentist. La plafond is another example.

Irony upon irony, I think the variant on Plafond was a long-standing project known as Super-Plafond. But when Jibe did it, he renamed it. He called it La Lune Dans Le Caniveau (The Moon in the Gutter) to get a bit of Gallic revenge for Ben's antagonistic route names: Agincourt and Maginot Line.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: r-man on November 20, 2013, 08:26:55 pm
There's also the classic French ego which demands that the route still be called Biographie.

I think it's fair until Realisation is spelt properly (not with a bloody z!)

Correct spelling depends on how geeky you want to be...

http://grammarist.com/spelling/realise-realize/ (http://grammarist.com/spelling/realise-realize/)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: ianv on November 20, 2013, 09:31:43 pm
Quote
Irony upon irony, I think the variant on Plafond was a long-standing project known as Super-Plafond. But when Jibe did it, he renamed it. He called it La Lune Dans Le Caniveau (The Moon in the Gutter) to get a bit of Gallic revenge for Ben's antagonistic route names: Agincourt and Maginot Line.

I saw a guide to Volx this summer that had it in as Super Plafond
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: mark on November 20, 2013, 11:07:48 pm
I saw a guide to Volx this summer that had it in as Super Plafond

As you wrote, the name in France is given by the equipper, so Jibe's rename never caught on.

Anyone know what Agincourt is known as in France?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: JMB on November 22, 2013, 02:31:39 pm
Ondra's apparently working First Round, First Minute, with some footage:

http://climbingnarc.com/2013/11/remember-first-round-first-minute/ (http://climbingnarc.com/2013/11/remember-first-round-first-minute/)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on November 22, 2013, 03:16:05 pm

Anyone know what Agincourt is known as in France?

I don't think the project had a name. Have only ever seen it referred to as Azincourt by the French so that's one name that did stick!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on December 04, 2013, 08:23:53 pm
3rd 9b+. Guess that puts him on 27g or something.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68562 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68562)

Quote from: that traitor Bjorn Pohl whose big number news is wasted on the other channel
Adam Ondra has made the first ascent of Vasil Vasil, 9b+, a route he bolted himself five years ago at Sloup in the Czech Republic.

According to his 8a-scorecard, it's a short route which starts with a 7 meter burly 8b section the leads straight into an 8B+ boulder section. It's more or less a "one move route" as the key move is at least 8B in its own right.

Adam also says it's by no means a great line, but rather painful and short, and in a dirty place "but it was there... and I couldn't leave it unclimbed".
This was Adam's third 9b+ first ascent, after Change andLa Dura Dura.

Sounds like he has been taking inspiration from the Mighty G - did you give him a sneak preview of the interview, sharkle?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Baldy on December 04, 2013, 11:31:53 pm
The length of that report makes me think that the next 9b+ he does might just get a passing nod.

9b+ = 4 short paragraphs of aknowledgement...

Is that apathy?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on December 05, 2013, 09:58:32 am
Is that a path?

To him yes.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: finbarrr on December 05, 2013, 10:26:50 am
The length of that report makes me think that the next 9b+ he does might just get a passing nod.

9b+ = 4 short paragraphs of aknowledgement...

Is that apathy?

I'd speculate that ,at this time, anything more would be pure speculation
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on December 05, 2013, 10:37:21 am
Updated item on UKC now. God it actually looks like Peak Limestone  :sick: Good effort tho.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Krank on December 05, 2013, 10:56:07 am
its beautiful

(http://i.ukc2.com/i/231520.jpg)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on December 05, 2013, 11:10:31 am
Thank god for UKC non-hotlinking :P
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Krank on December 05, 2013, 11:13:50 am
damn you ukc
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: petejh on December 05, 2013, 11:44:13 am
''It might be weird that I am so happy after having done such a "piece of shit" ''


Love this attitude, he should visit the cave.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on December 05, 2013, 12:13:49 pm
damn you ukc

Just rehost on imgur/yfrog/imageshack
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on December 05, 2013, 12:18:24 pm
I think most people can probably cope with going to ukc if they really want to see a picture
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on December 05, 2013, 12:24:25 pm
I'm sure they can Chris, had I thought it worth embedding here I would have rehosted it myself and done so.

However, my previous post was for Krank's benefit who seemed mildly riled at having been foiled in his attempt to embed the picture.  :ras:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on December 05, 2013, 02:58:00 pm
Ondra on Flatanger & Change (http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/adam-ondra-flatanger-norway-bolting-worlds-hardest-routes-hanshelleren)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on December 05, 2013, 04:18:22 pm
Good stuff.

"The most impressive line is what he calls Project Big, estimated to be 5.15c."

Strong name  :strongbench:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on December 06, 2013, 10:00:15 am
Excellent, that "piece of shit" 9b+ looks like it could be at Rubicon. And he spent over 20 days on it.  :2thumbsup: :bow:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Grubes on December 06, 2013, 11:08:19 am
someone send him a picture of Brandenburg gate. So if he will come for that then he can finally tick hubble as a warm up
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on December 06, 2013, 08:48:18 pm
I'm glad he's not a snob . I hate climbing snobs
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: ianto9 on December 06, 2013, 09:16:36 pm
''It might be weird that I am so happy after having done such a "piece of shit" ''


Love this attitude, he should visit the cave.
ha would love to see him on the ormes thou
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on December 06, 2013, 10:11:58 pm
someone send him a picture of Brandenburg gate. So if he will come for that then he can finally tick hubble as a warm up

He's already said he can't do the crux of Hubble. I'd prefer him not to attempt it again so I can still say I've burnt off the best climber in the world in a really random, obscure and basically incorrect way.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: petejh on December 06, 2013, 10:19:28 pm
I also can't do the crux of Hubble so I consider myself on a par with Ondra in that respect.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Muenchener on December 06, 2013, 10:50:28 pm
He's already said he can't do the crux of Hubble. I'd prefer him not to attempt it again so I can still say I've burnt off the best climber in the world in a really random, obscure and basically incorrect way.

I have "flash La Marie Rose" on my to-do list for a much less impressive version of the same contrived reason.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on December 11, 2013, 04:13:10 pm
(http://eveningsends.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/MG_8858.jpg) (http://eveningsends.com/2013/12/climb-perfectly-watch-adam-ondra-chris-sharma-send-reel-rock-8/)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on December 18, 2013, 04:52:00 pm
First ascent Nove G (9a), Gemona in Italy (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=41454)

Adam Ondra - NOVE G - a new 9A (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4_tIfmrFl-U#ws)

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on December 19, 2013, 12:10:41 pm
Looks cool, some good crimping going on.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: ianv on December 19, 2013, 12:44:15 pm
Quote
Before his evening lecture Ondra ended the day by attempting Effetti Colaterali but he fell, twice. It's worth noting that this is a tough 8c, that it was already dark and that Ondra was climbing with a headtorch...

 :lol: :lol: :lol:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Muenchener on December 19, 2013, 01:06:30 pm
Quote
Before his evening lecture Ondra ended the day by attempting Effetti Colaterali but he fell, twice. It's worth noting that this is a tough 8c, that it was already dark and that Ondra was climbing with a headtorch...

Training for the one-day push on the Dawn Wall has apparently begun
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on January 27, 2014, 01:26:59 pm
LA DURA COMPLETE (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WydHviTrYrI#ws)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: cb_6 on January 27, 2014, 02:41:35 pm
*awesome photo of Ondra on La Dura Dura*

Something that has often occured to me when watching climbing videos is that they often don't convey just how steep many of these really hard routes are. I don't know if it's just me, but on video La Dura Dura simply doesn't seem quite so overhanging (hardly surprising, given the angles the cameras are being pointed at). When you see a photo like this where the camera is balanced, the lens is nearly horizontal and the quickdraws on other routes act as a reliable reference for the angle, it really does hit home.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: miso soup on February 04, 2014, 12:06:35 am

I have "flash La Marie Rose" on my to-do list for a much less impressive version of the same contrived reason.

I stupidly decided to cross that off my to-do list as the light was fading at the end of my sixth day on.  Blew the flash, obviously.

Also, Ondra did First Round First Minute.

http://www.rocanbolt.com/2014/02/adam-ondra-encadena-first-round-first.html?m=1 (http://www.rocanbolt.com/2014/02/adam-ondra-encadena-first-round-first.html?m=1)  (in Spanish)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on February 04, 2014, 07:38:48 am
From the Spanish article:
"Lo que por cierto me diò lo que me faltaba para encadenar la via, ha sido hacer sprints."
A-ha.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Muenchener on February 04, 2014, 08:12:17 am
Also, Ondra did First Round First Minute.

9b+ climber redpoints 9b shock  ;)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on February 04, 2014, 08:23:35 am
Also, Ondra did First Round First Minute.

9b+ climber redpoints 9b shock  ;)

Thats what the article says  ;)

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on February 04, 2014, 12:58:56 pm
Interview with Adam Ondra about red-pointing First Round, First Minute (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=41550)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on March 17, 2014, 03:05:44 pm
A year old film....

z A do B / From A to B on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/49708424)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Danny on March 18, 2014, 08:21:31 am
Totally daft ethics making for some entertaining danger there.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on March 19, 2014, 05:40:38 pm
Adam visiting the Peak District in April (http://www.outside.co.uk/latest/news/La-Sportiva-Weekend-at-Outside-26-and-27-April-2014)

Hope he has another go at Hubble too as well as stifling the most annoying question on FUKC.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Robsons on March 20, 2014, 11:37:23 am
That's what I thought, but I've been told he is headed to the grit!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: petejh on March 20, 2014, 09:47:34 pm
That's like taking a formula 1 car rallying!

(deleted banger race, I like grit)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: horn on April 26, 2014, 12:22:30 pm
Ondra's been spotted in Hathersage, fiddling with black mastercams, green x4's and folded over rock 10's. Wonder where he's off to this afternoon?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: standard on April 26, 2014, 03:48:51 pm
https://twitter.com/lyonequipment/status/460043001373655041/photo/1
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: tomtom on April 26, 2014, 04:09:11 pm
(https://pbs.twimg.com/media/BmJmrBMIcAAcAWB.jpg)
(to save you loading up the twitter link)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: tomtom on April 26, 2014, 04:10:12 pm
And reading Horns thread further down - you can chat about it with him if you give him a lift to Heathrow this evening!!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Lopez on April 26, 2014, 04:19:38 pm

No banana costume no tick  :rtfm:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on April 26, 2014, 05:39:34 pm
He had an hour on Hubble this morning , kept falling off the last move but was so pushed for time he didn't have chance to have decent rests between go's.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: horn on April 26, 2014, 05:48:29 pm
(http://distilleryimage8.ak.instagram.com/51b3ac1ccd5c11e387cb0002c955bd28_8.jpg)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: RopeBoy on April 26, 2014, 06:11:49 pm
 :smart:

Masters Edge, Balance It Is, Messiah and the Knock, not bad for an afternoons cragging in less than ideal conditions.

J
Title: Ondrawad
Post by: dave on April 26, 2014, 06:40:17 pm
I'd just like to confirm that I also didn't do Hubble today.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: tomtom on April 26, 2014, 06:46:08 pm

I'd just like to confirm that I also didn't do Hubble today.

Was that you trying it in a Banana suit?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Clart on April 26, 2014, 06:50:57 pm
Dunno how Ondra does it. If I had groups of people following me about waiting to see whether or not I fail on a route it would put me right off my stroke. Even at my punter level I could learn a thing or two about putting the ego aside sometimes and just giving things a shot.   
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: a dense loner on April 26, 2014, 07:10:18 pm
Enough of this, can anyone confirm that Adam got to the airport safely?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on April 26, 2014, 07:30:32 pm
:smart:

Masters Edge, Balance It Is, Messiah and the Knock, not bad for an afternoons cragging in less than ideal conditions.

J

Not much of a drama when you climb 9b+
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Neil F on April 26, 2014, 08:22:29 pm
So, how many people round here have had one of their routes repeated by the Ondrawad.....    :whistle:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on April 26, 2014, 08:31:34 pm
He did messiah and another E7 at least according to @lyonequipment
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on April 26, 2014, 08:56:19 pm
Maybe Master's Edge or Balance It Is?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: petejh on April 26, 2014, 09:22:10 pm
:smart:

Masters Edge, Balance It Is, Messiah and the Knock, not bad for an afternoons cragging in less than ideal conditions.

J

Not much of a drama when you climb 9b+

Or 8b+?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: kelvin on April 30, 2014, 07:00:25 am
Neil Gresham's Facebook status -

"It was inevitable that it would leak on Twitter that Adam Ondra tried Hubble during his 1-day visit to the Peak. To call it a quick play would be an understatement. After a late slideshow in London on the Friday night, we arrived in Hathersage at 3am and were up at 5.30 to sneak in a 2 hour Raventor hit before work duties commenced. It was raining, humid and warm and a crucial foothold required repeated drying. But in an absurd feat of 'interval style' redpointing, he hit the last hold 3 times in a row, with ten minute rests between burns. Last time he visited the UK, his priority was his repeat of Overshadow 9a+ and this time it was sponsorship commitments. His eagerness to visit the tor against all odds sums up just how much he rates British climbing. Adam paid tribute to Hubble, confirming that it was 9a and similar in difficulty to Action Directe. In my opinion, he is one of the greatest ambassadors this sport has ever seen."
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: shark on April 30, 2014, 11:04:33 am
Word is that as a warm up he bolt to bolted up Mutation.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on April 30, 2014, 12:26:13 pm
Mutation is surely the big 2nd ascent to do in the UK. 1999 it was put up wasn't it?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: GCW on April 30, 2014, 01:05:58 pm
'98 I think.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: tim palmer on April 30, 2014, 03:06:36 pm

Neil Gresham's Facebook status -

"It was inevitable that it would leak on Twitter that Adam Ondra tried Hubble during his 1-day visit to the Peak. To call it a quick play would be an understatement. After a late slideshow in London on the Friday night, we arrived in Hathersage at 3am and were up at 5.30 to sneak in a 2 hour Raventor hit before work duties commenced. It was raining, humid and warm and a crucial foothold required repeated drying. But in an absurd feat of 'interval style' redpointing, he hit the last hold 3 times in a row, with ten minute rests between burns. Last time he visited the UK, his priority was his repeat of Overshadow 9a+ and this time it was sponsorship commitments. His eagerness to visit the tor against all odds sums up just how much he rates British climbing. Adam paid tribute to Hubble, confirming that it was 9a and similar in difficulty to Action Directe. In my opinion, he is one of the greatest ambassadors this sport has ever seen."

Hyperbolic twaddle anyone?
Is this not describing "getting in a quick session before work?"
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Luke Owens on April 30, 2014, 03:13:34 pm

Neil Gresham's Facebook status -

"It was inevitable that it would leak on Twitter that Adam Ondra tried Hubble during his 1-day visit to the Peak. To call it a quick play would be an understatement. After a late slideshow in London on the Friday night, we arrived in Hathersage at 3am and were up at 5.30 to sneak in a 2 hour Raventor hit before work duties commenced. It was raining, humid and warm and a crucial foothold required repeated drying. But in an absurd feat of 'interval style' redpointing, he hit the last hold 3 times in a row, with ten minute rests between burns. Last time he visited the UK, his priority was his repeat of Overshadow 9a+ and this time it was sponsorship commitments. His eagerness to visit the tor against all odds sums up just how much he rates British climbing. Adam paid tribute to Hubble, confirming that it was 9a and similar in difficulty to Action Directe. In my opinion, he is one of the greatest ambassadors this sport has ever seen."

Hyperbolic twaddle anyone?
Is this not describing "getting in a quick session before work?"

+1

Getting in quick sessions and fitting climbing around life is something most of us find normal...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on April 30, 2014, 03:25:32 pm
In my opinion, he is one of the greatest ambassadors this sport has ever seen."

Oh ambassador you do spoil us!

Dealing with limited time and shit connies, welcome to the real world.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: T_B on April 30, 2014, 03:55:23 pm
Come on guys, Gresham's post might come across as overly fawning, but he was obviously blown away by Ondra's performance/psyche. And it's not like he hasn't seen a few decent climbers o'er the years.

As someone who is massively time pressured I'm still impressed that he dragged his ar*e out of bed after just a few hours sleep to try it before a day of presumably having to be personable with the general public.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on April 30, 2014, 05:27:41 pm
I agree with T_B. Great effort by Ondra (I'd have got a few more hours kip instead) and Greshams' write up is good.

I thought I was cynical, poor show!

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on April 30, 2014, 05:29:14 pm
Stop hating on the G. :clown:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on April 30, 2014, 05:41:46 pm
Stop hating on the G. :clown:

Love to all the G's  :-*
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: GCW on April 30, 2014, 05:52:22 pm
Love to all the G's  :-*

Cheers  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on April 30, 2014, 06:35:13 pm
Oh, so in the "real world" people get two hours of sleep, then get on Hubble in poor conditions getting to the last hold several times, all before hopping on a plane?
If that wasn't being a great ambassador of climbing, I don't know what it could be.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on April 30, 2014, 07:14:29 pm
Lazy cunt Ondra and shame on Gresham for letting people know. Wankers.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: a dense loner on April 30, 2014, 07:56:14 pm
To be fair to Adam I remember Blackpool Sam going to font and not doing anything
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: tim palmer on April 30, 2014, 09:57:19 pm
Sorry for my slight sarcasm, ondra is clearly a hero of the first order and it is great he is still keen to climb other people's hard routes ( hubble is clearly nails).  The ambassador thing just seemed a bit silly
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on May 01, 2014, 09:23:58 am
The ambassador thing just seemed a bit silly

+1. There are loads of people out there who do a hell of a lot more, and received a lot less accolades for their effort.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on May 01, 2014, 10:21:05 am
The ambassador thing just seemed a bit silly

I agree, but in the context of them both being sponsored by La Sportiva (and others) its clear why it was said.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: tim palmer on May 01, 2014, 10:53:33 am
I agree, but in the context of them both being sponsored by La Sportiva (and others) its clear why it was said.

Yes absolutely, is it depressing that that is the first thing that popped into my cynical little brain too?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on May 01, 2014, 11:16:30 am
is it depressing that that is the first thing that popped into my cynical little brain too?

Not to me.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on May 01, 2014, 12:54:02 pm
I agree, but in the context of them both being sponsored by La Sportiva (and others) its clear why it was said.

Yes absolutely, is it depressing that that is the first thing that popped into my cynical little brain too?

That hadn't crossed my mind. More cynical than me, impressive!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: a dense loner on May 01, 2014, 03:28:04 pm
Who are these people that do a hell of a lot more than ondra? The mans a climber and he happens to be, quite easily arguably, the best on earth.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on May 01, 2014, 04:05:06 pm
Fuck me, so now what people are saying is that Ondra and Gresham are both doing their jobs well. Again, shame on them! This isn't cynicism it's plain stupid.

And what Dense said.

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: miso soup on May 01, 2014, 04:47:21 pm
I'm confused by the timeline now, did he do all the E7 on-sights after work on the same day he didn't do Hubble?  That would be more impressive than any of it, I don't even go to the wall after two hours sleep and a day at work.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: petejh on May 01, 2014, 05:11:07 pm
Come on Jasper-Dense, I think you're missing the point being made which is that yes, Ondra is one of the great 'ambassadors' of climbing, but it's not because of relative trivialites like going to the tor early in the morning after a flight. He should be doing that sort of thing.  Plenty of people considered 'ambassadors' out there who don't crank 9 or 8 anything, it's not all about climbing hard. More often the sort of selfless work to improve something outside the self or devotion to mastery for the sake of mastery. I think that's what jars with some (not me) in that tweet - it implies to be considered an ambassador is to get up early and try hard after a flight - that someone else paid for - whilst on a quick work trip (which you're getting paid for). Not exactly selfless.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: a dense loner on May 01, 2014, 06:13:39 pm
I'm not arguing about any of that, grades are meaningless as well. I don't care if he climbs 2a the point, well not even a point, was he's a climber and he took it upon himself to go climbing. After his sponsors had paid for him to come here on a flying visit for work, he didn't need to go and try Hubble he didn't need to go to millstone. He could have got someone with ID to buy him a nice pint and just gone home after a job well done. But he did what most people would do ie climb after/before work, he just did it earlier and better than anyone else would/could have done.
I've not heard him doing anything else since leaving hathersage, so did he get to the airport ok?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: shark on May 01, 2014, 07:10:23 pm
I'm confused by the timeline now, did he do all the E7 on-sights after work on the same day he didn't do Hubble?  That would be more impressive than any of it, I don't even go to the wall after two hours sleep and a day at work.

Yes and yes
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: petejh on May 01, 2014, 07:37:06 pm
I'm confused by the timeline now, did he do all the E7 on-sights after work on the same day he didn't do Hubble?  That would be more impressive than any of it, I don't even go to the wall after two hours sleep and a day at work.

Yes and yes

What about the airport?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: shurt on May 01, 2014, 07:49:59 pm
All of this aside its still Hubble 3 Ondra 0
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Lopez on May 01, 2014, 07:59:54 pm
Has everyone missed the bombshell in that write-up or am i grossly out of touch and it is old news?

AFAIK it is the first time that it gets 'confirmed' that Hubble is 9a. I know, he hasn't done it yet, it was humid and hot, etc. but...  :worms:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on May 01, 2014, 08:04:21 pm
He said it was 9a last time he tried it too.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: shark on May 01, 2014, 08:07:26 pm
Has everyone missed the bombshell in that write-up or am i grossly out of touch and it is old news?

AFAIK it is the first time that it gets 'confirmed' that Hubble is 9a. I know, he hasn't done it yet, it was humid and hot, etc. but...  :worms:

Its in the draft of the definitive guide at 9a so it must be definitive 9a.

The only person that questioned it was Grimer but apparently he's shit on undercuts.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Lopez on May 01, 2014, 08:12:41 pm
All right. I thought last time he said it was 'likely' 9a. All i can find is The world's first 8c+, which could be easily even 9a in my opinion

Oh well, back under my bridge
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: shark on May 01, 2014, 08:25:57 pm
All right. I thought last time he said it was 'likely' 9a. All i can find is The world's first 8c+, which could be easily even 9a in my opinion

Oh well, back under my bridge

Big question is whether it is Font 8B+
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on May 01, 2014, 08:59:34 pm
Nobody ever questioned the 8B+ grade. Or E10 7b actually.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: petejh on May 01, 2014, 09:04:59 pm
Or E10 7b actually.

That would have kept a lid on E9s with french 7c climbing.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on May 01, 2014, 09:08:30 pm
Don't go there Pete! *can of worms smiley*

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: a dense loner on May 01, 2014, 10:24:33 pm
can we keep this on track as an ondrawad thread pls?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: tomtom on May 01, 2014, 10:37:43 pm

Nobody ever questioned the 8B+ grade. Or E10 7b actually.

In V grades please ;)

Anyway to get back to the thread  - great effort... To have the psyche to get up at 5am to scratch up some gizzy damp peak lime shows a high level of commitment and interest. Bravo.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on May 01, 2014, 10:50:24 pm
No surprise as he's  got a sense of history. Hope he gets chance to finish it off sometime.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on May 01, 2014, 10:56:57 pm
can we keep this on track as an ondrawad thread pls?

It is as far as I'm concerned. Find it rather ukc/surprising/pathetic that it's been hijacked in this way.

Mind you, this is someone who's climbed most of the hardest routes in the world, on film rather than an "enigma".

Go figure.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Muenchener on May 02, 2014, 06:18:42 am
No surprise as he's  got a sense of history.

Speaking of history: the three grit E7s all onsight? Most grit E7s ever onsighted in a day(*) by anybody?

(*) in an afternoon, after very little sleep, nearly repointing Hubble mutliple times in poor conditions in the morning, then a day's work
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: horn on May 02, 2014, 10:02:37 am

I'm confused by the timeline now, did he do all the E7 on-sights after work on the same day he didn't do Hubble?  That would be more impressive than any of it, I don't even go to the wall after two hours sleep and a day at work.

Yes and yes

Technically, he onsighted three E7s on his lunch break!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on May 04, 2014, 08:42:52 pm
Second 9a onsight for Ondra. Il Domani in Baltzola ?? First person to onsight 9a and Masters Edge in the same week  :P
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: bendavison on May 04, 2014, 09:36:26 pm
 :bow:

Where'd you see that?

I'm just glad he got to the airport OK.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: EdGowSmith on May 04, 2014, 09:45:00 pm
Patxi Usobiaga's Facebook page:

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1472879386279045&set=a.1417026105197707.1073741831.100006709924542&type=1&theater (https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1472879386279045&set=a.1417026105197707.1073741831.100006709924542&type=1&theater)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on May 04, 2014, 09:56:35 pm
Patxis Instagram
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Duma on May 05, 2014, 01:46:11 pm
Il Domani. 9a on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/18099325)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on May 05, 2014, 02:02:30 pm
There's an article on UKC too.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Lopez on May 05, 2014, 02:14:57 pm
There's a good interview with Adam over on Desnivel today.

Apparently he misread the crux section sequence and did it harder than it was meant to, and the knee-bar rest that comes after that and before the other 'hard move' was wet and couldn't use it to rest properly on it. He thinks the way he did it still wouldn't warrant 9a+ though, but...  :weakbench:

Ah, and he's now going to start training properly for the first time apparently. His coach? Patxi Usobiaga. He'll be competing in both the boulder and lead WC this year. Dear lord   :popcorn:

Interview here for those who can withstand google translate or can understand spanish http://desnivel.com/escalada-roca/adam-ondra-encadena-il-domani-su-segundo-9a-a-vista-en-baltzola (http://desnivel.com/escalada-roca/adam-ondra-encadena-il-domani-su-segundo-9a-a-vista-en-baltzola)

Correction: He's only competing in 1 boulder WC. I was listening to the audio interview and missed that...  :chair:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on May 05, 2014, 10:26:06 pm
9b+ climber on mid sevens: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SGnzI6WmsEg (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SGnzI6WmsEg#ws)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Muenchener on May 06, 2014, 06:35:33 am
As an aside: what did alpine wad Pietro dal Prà do on grit? Just belay Adam?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on May 06, 2014, 10:27:17 am
Onsighting is gooooood  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: coziosco on May 06, 2014, 01:48:07 pm
As an aside: what did alpine wad Pietro dal Prà do on grit? Just belay Adam?

Bouldering for Pietro at the plantation on Sunday with Jim Pope. No routes, not enough time on the Saturday with belaying, rock shoe fitting clinics, driving around. He's in the background of this...


Jim Pope on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/93376908)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on May 06, 2014, 11:48:42 pm
Onsighting is gooooood  :2thumbsup:

Oh for fuck's sake Fiend. Stop banging that drum.

It's about as entertaining as the annoying hippy at a rave with a bongo who everyone humours for a bit and then leaves on his own for the remaining ten hours while they go and have fun.

Ondra onsighting E7 is like me onsighting a VS slab, irrelevant and really easy.

We all get that you think any sort of practicing a route prior to climbing it is anathema but the best climber in the world pissing a few easy grit routes doesn't prove your point.

It's boring. I'm bored with it. Go make more badly dressed, awfully soundtracked bouldering films instead. Those are good as at least  they make my son laugh.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: a dense loner on May 07, 2014, 02:54:58 am
I'll have a pint of what Jasper's had pls barkeep
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: tomtom on May 07, 2014, 08:59:26 am
A video of J climbing a VS slab whilst playing bongo's to a thrash metal sound track could work though... ;)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on May 07, 2014, 11:04:51 am
Jasper you can be really quite unintelligent sometimes. No offense or anything.

I wasn't banging any drum nor making the point you mistakenly think.

The point I was making was that it is nice to see a leading foreign climber, unused to trad climbing, choosing to onsight some "safer" grit routes, rather than automatically headpointing much harder bolder routes, as is often the way for leading foreign climbers unused to trad climbing.

Ondra onsighting E7 is just as irrelevant and really easy as Ondra headpointing E10. I'm just celebrating that he chose to do the former because it seems the less common choice to me.

It really is as simple as that.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on May 07, 2014, 11:07:33 am
Yeah I must have imagined all those other posts of yours.  :yawn:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on May 07, 2014, 11:10:49 am
No you didn't, but yes next time I will make it clearer when I'm giving an innocuous appreciation of a climber's ascents (i.e. this case - although I did think the simplicity and positivity of my post was enough) compared to when I'm vigorously standing up for principles (other cases).
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Bonjoy on May 07, 2014, 12:46:59 pm
Hats off to the genius on the Ondra video who's blagged a lock of his hair. A priceless redpoint talisman indeed.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on May 07, 2014, 01:06:41 pm
Should it be encased in liquid amber? Or woven into a beanie?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: petejh on May 07, 2014, 02:48:24 pm
A type of tree? (as well as an 8c+ on LPT).
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on May 07, 2014, 03:04:37 pm
Jurassic Park - Pull Focus - Review & Criticism (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IjjPCNbNQSY#ws)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on May 07, 2014, 03:15:37 pm
Should it be encased in liquid amber? Or woven into a beanie?

Single strands should be woven into an accapi type top. Imagine the possibilties.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on May 07, 2014, 03:24:34 pm
The possibilities that that bollox might actually work for a....Change??
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on May 07, 2014, 03:33:21 pm
As much chance as (allegedly) weaving platinum group metals into it. I can imagine the Ondrafibretm being able to extert enough force that even the most "heavily built" climber is compressed so their mass is reduced to that of the flyweight master himself.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on May 07, 2014, 03:44:40 pm
Nice play on words there Fiend  ;)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: JamieG on May 07, 2014, 06:14:35 pm
As much chance as (allegedly) weaving platinum group metals into it. I can imagine the Ondrafibretm being able to extert enough force that even the most "heavily built" climber is compressed so their mass is reduced to that of the flyweight master himself.

I could do with some of that . . . .
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: lagerstarfish on May 09, 2014, 09:29:44 am
like me onsighting a VS slab

when was the last time this happened?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on May 09, 2014, 09:47:37 am
I don't know but I know it'd still be easy.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: tommytwotone on May 09, 2014, 10:52:39 am
I don't know but I know it'd still be easy.


Jas, next time you're up Yorkshire way give me a shout - I seem to remember this being pretty slabby...happy to hold your ropes and you can even borrow my size 4 and 5 cams!


http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=90158 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=90158)


Look forward to videoing the ascent (and ensuing colourful language) - I don't have any thrash metal to soundtrack the video with, so we'll have to make do with Fleetwood Mac or Phil Collins.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: tomtom on May 09, 2014, 11:21:11 am
I don't know but I know it'd still be easy.


Jas, next time you're up Yorkshire way give me a shout - I seem to remember this being pretty slabby...happy to hold your ropes and you can even borrow my size 4 and 5 cams!


http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=90158 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=90158)


Look forward to videoing the ascent (and ensuing colourful language) - I don't have any thrash metal to soundtrack the video with, so we'll have to make do with Fleetwood Mac or Phil Collins.

Don't listen to him Jas - 3T's gone potty and now likes doing things with ropes and *shudders* large cracks...

;)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: lagerstarfish on May 09, 2014, 12:01:43 pm
I think it's just the start of Ondra building an inverted onsighting pyramid. a couple of E7s, a few E8s a bunch of 9s and all the 10s
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on May 09, 2014, 12:03:46 pm
Put the crack pipe down twotone. In what parallel universe is that monstrosity a slab?!

Anyway, this is seriously  :off:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: bendavison on May 10, 2014, 11:25:32 am
 :o 9a onsight attempt

Adam Ondra en Psicoterapia 9a (Valdegovía) (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E6-La1pz1SU#ws)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on May 10, 2014, 12:25:15 pm
How close was that. Unbelievable stuff!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Stubbs on May 10, 2014, 12:38:05 pm
Awesome, great footage too.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: tomtom on May 10, 2014, 01:13:57 pm
Great. Nice to have a vid with no music, sponsors shizzle etc.. just captivating climbing. Brilliant.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Danny on May 10, 2014, 02:13:14 pm
Amazing. Such decisive movement. Difficult to tell he's onsighting at times. Comparing this with the footage of Megos on UK lime really does leave you with the impression that Ondra is in a different league, even compared to someone who has also onsighted 9a.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on May 10, 2014, 02:38:06 pm
Amazing video.
The man is a machine.
I loved the final long rest just below the chain, that's truly smart and professional: good rest, take it! It doesn't matter that it's almost finished. "Almost" makes the difference.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on May 10, 2014, 02:48:18 pm
Onsighting is gooooood  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on May 10, 2014, 02:50:39 pm
Ahahahahahahahhahahahahahahhah!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on May 10, 2014, 03:38:31 pm
Wow! Some years ago I took some photos of a friend on that route. It looked harder then...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Wood FT on May 10, 2014, 03:41:00 pm
Amazing. Such decisive movement. Difficult to tell he's onsighting at times. Comparing this with the footage of Megos on UK lime really does leave you with the impression that Ondra is in a different league, even compared to someone who has also onsighted 9a.

To be fair I saw Megos attempting to onsight l'odi social at siurana and he was the epitome of flow. Still fell off but that's the new style.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: habrich on May 10, 2014, 04:00:21 pm
Great. Nice to have a vid with no music, sponsors shizzle etc.. just captivating climbing. Brilliant.
+1
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on May 10, 2014, 06:06:54 pm
Amazing. Such decisive movement. Difficult to tell he's onsighting at times. Comparing this with the footage of Megos on UK lime really does leave you with the impression that Ondra is in a different league, even compared to someone who has also onsighted 9a.

Goes without saying
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Muenchener on May 11, 2014, 06:09:00 pm
You're only saying that because Ondra hasn't publicly dissed LPT.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on May 11, 2014, 06:23:16 pm
95 grade 9's and 14 8c+s onsight  ;)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: bendavison on May 11, 2014, 06:30:59 pm
95 grade 9's

Several of which are 9b's or 9b+'s, of which Megos has done none (I think?)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on May 11, 2014, 06:31:57 pm
95 grade 9's

Several of which are 9b's or 9b+'s, of which Megos has done none (I think?)

Plus Caff did Unjustified quicker than him... Ok ill stop now  :P :P
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Moo on May 11, 2014, 06:38:07 pm
We 're not seriously comparing Ondra with anyone else though are we :-\
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Mark Lloyd on May 11, 2014, 07:46:35 pm
For all his 9a onsights and 9b red points he still hasn't done Hubble circa 1990 Benjamin "the daddy" moon
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Lopez on May 11, 2014, 07:52:57 pm
95 grade 9's

Make that 96.

That's 4 9's in 4 consecutive days. :blink:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: bendavison on May 11, 2014, 09:06:14 pm
For all his 9a onsights and 9b red points he still hasn't done Hubble circa 1990 Benjamin "the daddy" moon

Or stretchers wall at Bowden doors.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Danny on May 14, 2014, 11:52:09 pm
95 grade 9's

Make that 96.

That's 4 9's in 4 consecutive days. :blink:

I have amazement fatigue when it comes to these little nuggets of info. He pretty much 'goes cragging' at >8C+ whilst the best of the rest put together probably don't seem to match this frequency of hard ascents. I exaggerate, but not that much.

The real question is whether Ondra is just the first of many that can achieve this sort of standard, or whether he is just so far ahead that he may never be matched on a regular basis? The past few years give me the impression that it's the latter. Yet look at the standard-at-age achievements of Ashima, Kai and Mirko; he could well be the first of many. It must be strange for the 21+ish generation climbing at the current cutting edge, looking back at this tidal wave of youth ability. Interesting times.

Tangential thought: despite being the 'best climber in the world' for quite a while, Sharma didn't give us the first of any grade (probably, possibly?). Not that that really matters.       
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: moose on May 15, 2014, 12:34:32 am
Tangential thought: despite being the 'best climber in the world' for quite a while, Sharma didn't give us the first of any grade (probably, possibly?). Not that that really matters.     

Wasn't Realization the first 9a+? At least the first without a whiff of controversy anyway (as I think Akira might have beat it).  And was Jumbo Love the first 9b?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Muenchener on May 15, 2014, 06:55:28 am
the best of the rest put together probably don't seem to match this frequency of hard ascents. I exaggerate, but not that much.

Not very much at all. I checked the 8a.nu database a couple of weeks ago, at which point there were just over 70 ascents of 9a and above logged in the previous twelve months. Adam Ondra: 20, Ramonet: 10, Rest Of The World: the other half-ish

OK, Chris Sharma isn't in there but I don't get the impression he bangs the hard ascents out at quite the same rate.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Muenchener on May 15, 2014, 07:03:51 am
Wasn't Realization the first 9a+? At least the first without a whiff of controversy

That, I think: plus the first obvious major classic at the grade at a non-obscure crag.

See also Joe Brown. Not the first person to climb "extreme" in the UK, but the first to knock out a string of obviously superb classics at the grade all over the place.[/offtopic]
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Clart on May 15, 2014, 07:33:19 am
Noooo, Alex Huber did 9a+ long before. Fred Roulings was also doing similar things off difficulty back in the 90's. There was chilam balam (sp?) given 9b+ by Fernandez at the time but slightly downgraded to 9b by Ondra. Always seems strange that these ascents are ignored. Bit like j.dunne, maybe you could only climb hard if your were part of the in-crowd?
Take your point about a whiff of controversy but I believe there is no doubt over Huber's stuff.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: HaeMeS on May 15, 2014, 07:44:51 am
@ Moose:
First claimed 9a+: Orujo, Archidona, Spain. Climbed as 9a in 1998 by  Bernabé Fernández, reclimbed after removing 3 of its four artificial holds the grade went up to 9a+. Never been repeated/never got the credits it deserved (because of the artificial holds?).
First confirmed 9a+ Open Air, Schleierwasserfall, Austria climbed by Huber in 1996 and repeated by Ondra in 2008.
First claimed 9b: Akira, Eaux Claires, France by Rouhling in 1994.
First confirmed 9b: Chilam Balam, Villanueva del Rosario, Spain. Claimed as 9b+ by  Bernabé Fernández, confirmed at (soft) 9b by Ondra.

From: http://desnivel.com/escalada-roca/los-29-miembros-del-club-espanol-del-noveno-grado (http://desnivel.com/escalada-roca/los-29-miembros-del-club-espanol-del-noveno-grado)
"1. Bernabé Fernández (6 novenos)

El escalador malagueño fue un fenómeno precoz y superdotado. A principios de la década de 1990 realizó las primeras españolas de un 8c (Harakiri, 1991) y de un 8c+ (Mojave, 1994). En 1998, lanzó la noticia de haber encadenado el primer 9a español con Orujo en Archidona. La polémica la cubrió desde el primer momento, debido al hecho de ser una vía notablemente 'manufacturada', con cuatro presas de resina añadidas. Después del encadenamiento, el mismo Bernabé Fernández decidió quitar tres de esas presas y volvió a encadenar la línea, rectificando la cotación hasta 9a+... era la primera propuesta de 9a+ del mundo, para una vía nunca repetida.

La polémica persiguió de forma virulenta a Bernabé Fernández años después, cuando anunció haber encadenado Chilam Balam en Villanueva del Rosario. En aquel entonces (2003), propuso un grado inédito de 9b+, pero nunca aparecieron testigos ni pruebas de aquella histórica ascensión. Adam Ondra en 2011 encadenó el larguísimo itinerario proponiendo un grado de 9b, sin dudar de la ascensión del andaluz ocho años antes."


Edit: Posted accidentally before finishing my typing.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: abarro81 on May 15, 2014, 07:48:15 am
Never been repeated/never got the credits it deserved (because of the artificial holds?).

 Controversies aside.


Answered your own question there. Lots of scepticism about routes by BF I believe...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on May 15, 2014, 08:15:56 am
At the time I had a subscription to Desnivel, and despite the fact that they ran the news about Fernandez's routes, they also ran interviews to other climbers, and basically no one believed him. We were still far from the days of "it's either on video or it did not happen" but still, he gave few details of the ascents.
Andrada thought he never actually climbed Chilam. He went there and tried it, and despite the fact that Fernandez had affirmed having tried the route for more than a year, he could not find neither chalk nor rubber marks in any place.
This is what I read.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: moose on May 15, 2014, 08:38:54 am
Was the Huber route (or routes) acclaimed as 9a+ at the time or have they been upgraded since - due mainly to Ondra finding them old skool hard?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on May 15, 2014, 08:42:12 am
At the time I had a subscription to Desnivel, and despite the fact that they ran the news about Fernandez's routes, they also ran interviews to other climbers, and basically no one believed him. We were still far from the days of "it's either on video or it did not happen" but still, he gave few details of the ascents.
Andrada thought he never actually climbed Chilam. He went there and tried it, and despite the fact that Fernandez had affirmed having tried the route for more than a year, he could not find neither chalk nor rubber marks in any place.
This is what I read.

I seem to remember that he demonstrated some pretty decent links on it to Ondra / Sharma not that this proves anything whatsoever other than that he had obviously attempted it a fair bit.

Bit like j.dunne, maybe you could only climb hard if your were part of the in-crowd?

 :slap:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: HaeMeS on May 15, 2014, 01:26:38 pm
@Nibs: have you seen the video of Bernabe trying Chilam Balam in 1999? Nice pants. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oX9D8X1C3yE (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oX9D8X1C3yE)

Bernabe has posted several vids of him climbing al least large PARTS of the hard routes he claimed. All of them seem really long i.e. (ultra-) endurance. Once you can do the moves and invest the time... you can climb the route innit? 

More on: http://www.bernabefernandez.com/ (http://www.bernabefernandez.com/)
And: https://www.youtube.com/user/Rupicandu (https://www.youtube.com/user/Rupicandu)

@Moose: Open Air was claimed as XI or 9a by Alex Huber at the time.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on May 15, 2014, 01:31:53 pm
Once you can do the moves and invest the time... you can climb the route innit?

Absolutely not. That's totally bull. There are plenty of routes on which can do all the moves and big links quite easily but will never be fit enough for.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on May 15, 2014, 01:39:45 pm
I only posted what I read...
 :shrug:
And despite the fact that the videos show probably fifteen moves on a 60 meters long route, those are NICE PANTS!!!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Lopez on May 15, 2014, 02:55:42 pm
First claimed 9a+: Orujo, Archidona, Spain. Climbed as 9a in 1998 by  Bernabé Fernández, reclimbed after removing 3 of its four artificial holds the grade went up to 9a+. Never been repeated/never got the credits it deserved (because of the artificial holds?).

 A bit more complicated than that... He claimed his sequence was 9a, so after he climbed it he sikaed a number of natural holds he claimed not to use, removed a bunch of the resin holds, took the hammer to yet more holds that Andrada was using, and called it 9a+ even though it hasn't been climbed since the facelift. (He re-climbed it before taking anything out but skipping holds) :wank:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on May 15, 2014, 03:12:55 pm
What kind of shit is that to do?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: bigtuboflard on May 15, 2014, 03:38:16 pm
Once you can do the moves and invest the time... you can climb the route innit?

Absolutely not. That's totally bull. There are plenty of routes on which can do all the moves and big links quite easily but will never be fit enough for.
+1. I've never been good on routes; I thought all the moves on Austrian Oak as an example were pretty easy, but never got close to linking it as only ever trained to boulder and train on a board, ran out of steam way before the top
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: abarro81 on May 15, 2014, 03:48:17 pm
I'm a route climber, and one who likes lots of easy moves in a row, and I still say +2 to what jwi said. I suspect HaeMeS was being tongue in cheek.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: shark on May 15, 2014, 03:54:41 pm
Once you can do the moves and invest the time... you can climb the route innit?

Absolutely not. That's totally bull. There are plenty of routes on which can do all the moves and big links quite easily but will never be fit enough for.
+1. I've never been good on routes; I thought all the moves on Austrian Oak as an example were pretty easy, but never got close to linking it as only ever trained to boulder and train on a board, ran out of steam way before the top

Although I don't find the moves easy I first did links of overlapping halves a few years ago and maybe had 50 days on it since then and still not got the tick so cant be accused of not investing the time.

If you are pushing yourself a successful redpoint is never a certainty even if you can do big links let alone the individual moves. In fact Steve Mac said something to the effect of that you aren't playing the redpoint game properly if you only go on routes where the final redpoint is a certainty.   
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on May 16, 2014, 10:04:35 am
 :o :2thumbsup: :clap2: :bow:

Adam Ondra en Ira 9a - Baltzola (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=16Mn3-8sfOI#ws)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: EdGowSmith on May 21, 2014, 11:22:17 am
http://eu.blackdiamondequipment.com/en/experience-story?cid=adam-ondra-9a-il-domani-onsight (http://eu.blackdiamondequipment.com/en/experience-story?cid=adam-ondra-9a-il-domani-onsight)

Onsight of Il Dominia.

 :popcorn:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Moo on May 21, 2014, 12:02:45 pm
 :jaw:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: flyguy on May 21, 2014, 12:29:05 pm
That is absolutely amazing its hard to believe that it is onsight.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on May 21, 2014, 12:44:28 pm
Brilliant. is that 98th at 9 or harder. Wonder if he's saving Hubble for his historic 100th?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Ged on May 21, 2014, 12:46:01 pm
Wow.   :jaw:

Just phenomenal.  SOme of the other hard onsights of his, he almost looks like he's redpointing it he's so smooth. Definitely looks like more of a fight on this one.  It really seems like a new level has been reached by him and Megos.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: psychomansam on May 21, 2014, 02:14:19 pm
Does onsight mean someone else put the draws in?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on May 21, 2014, 02:40:51 pm
Yes, that's OK.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: tomtom on May 21, 2014, 06:06:02 pm
Twitter rumours or disinformation hint at the great long necked one being back on Hubble... So I may be either breaking news or breaking bullshit :)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: standard on May 21, 2014, 06:25:27 pm
That's a great interpretation of a stick man bic drawing.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: shark on May 21, 2014, 07:07:25 pm
Twitter rumours or disinformation hint at the great long necked one being back on Hubble... So I may be either breaking news or breaking bullshit :)

More likely Sean McColl and the Mammut film crew
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on May 22, 2014, 11:27:31 am
That video is fucking incredible. So impressive.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on May 22, 2014, 11:50:26 am
Je suis d'accord. Also, I watched Ondra stroll up all the steep problems in the Insbruck world cup just before watching that video. Gives context to just how difficult the hard moves on it must be
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: finbarrr on May 23, 2014, 06:19:22 pm
these not posted here yet?

http://www.epictv.com/media/podcast/why-does-adam-ondra-scream-so-much-%7C-epictv-climbing-daily-ep-274/277436 (http://www.epictv.com/media/podcast/why-does-adam-ondra-scream-so-much-%7C-epictv-climbing-daily-ep-274/277436)

http://www.epictv.com/media/podcast/where-does-adam-ondra-get-his-haircut-%7C-epictv-climbing-daily-ep-280/277468 (http://www.epictv.com/media/podcast/where-does-adam-ondra-get-his-haircut-%7C-epictv-climbing-daily-ep-280/277468)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Wood FT on May 23, 2014, 07:01:50 pm
http://eu.blackdiamondequipment.com/en/experience-story?cid=adam-ondra-9a-il-domani-onsight (http://eu.blackdiamondequipment.com/en/experience-story?cid=adam-ondra-9a-il-domani-onsight)

Onsight of Il Dominia.

 :popcorn:

you lot have no morals,he blatantly touched that tree
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on May 23, 2014, 07:06:32 pm
McClure got a 8c onsight disallowed for that!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: petejh on May 23, 2014, 07:57:40 pm
That cave remind you of anywhere  :-\
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Muenchener on May 23, 2014, 08:07:17 pm
you lot have no morals,he blatantly touched that tree

Since when was tree-touching out?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: abarro81 on May 23, 2014, 08:13:10 pm
Oh Spain you're so fine, you're so fine you blow my mind, hey Spain! The climbing in Baltzola looks so damn good.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: JackAus on July 09, 2014, 02:40:15 pm
The Wizard's Apprentice

www.youtube.com/watch?v=a7bqwgl87YU (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a7bqwgl87YU#ws)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on July 09, 2014, 03:10:32 pm
I doubt that will stay up for long  :whistle: (http://rg3.github.com/youtube-dl/)

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on July 09, 2014, 11:41:25 pm
Errrrrrppppp. Trying to stop watching this and go to bed but it's really hard. Top stuff for the first 50 mins so far, will be buying this.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on July 10, 2014, 07:31:36 am
Better rename it "The wizard's master".
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: gme on July 10, 2014, 04:04:57 pm
Ondra not so wad appears to have failed to qualify for the semis in Chamonix. According to the scores on iSFC twitter feed he fell of the 3rd move of the 1st route.

Must have the footwork of Mark Leach.

Since he got a coach he seems to be going down hill in the comps.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: habrich on July 10, 2014, 04:45:16 pm
Great film.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on July 10, 2014, 09:16:51 pm


Ondra not so wad appears to have failed to qualify for the semis in Chamonix. According to the scores on iSFC twitter feed he fell of the 3rd move of the 1st route.

Must have the footwork of Mark Leach.

Since he got a coach he seems to be going down hill in the comps.

He forgot to clip the first draw. No problem with the actual climbing

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: gme on July 10, 2014, 10:00:30 pm
You get disqualified for that!!!

Bet he is pissed.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on July 10, 2014, 10:19:03 pm
Not that surprising given how many he skips on harder sport routes!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Clart on July 11, 2014, 07:15:30 am
First Brazil get beaten 7-1 now this?!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: finbarrr on July 12, 2014, 03:07:51 pm
from ondra's 8a log:
"TCT" , 9a, at Gravere; onsight:
"nice satisfaction after the lost Chamonix World cup. A tribute to Tito Traversa first ascended by Stefano Ghisolfi"

 and:
"La prophétie des grenouilles", 9a, at Fournel :"Soft, Second GO   ALMOST second 9a onsight in one day! broke a hold after the crux!"

 :bow:

same day, at different crags, in different countries no less,
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on July 12, 2014, 05:30:27 pm
The mind boggles.
Now only breaking holds will stop him onsighting 9a's on a regular basis. He's redefining the discipline.
What a legend.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Baldy on July 12, 2014, 06:36:24 pm
I like how he says "lost" world cup.

Though, I dont disagree with that sort of form.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Denbob99 on July 14, 2014, 11:27:55 am
Yeah, apparently he thought he'd clipped the first clip but the rope got caught in the gate, so he clipped the 2nd bolt and jumped off.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on July 17, 2014, 08:01:55 pm
Adam Ondra has onsighted Superplafond @ Volx, putting in the draws as he went. It's only 8c+ but...
Source (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=41966)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on July 17, 2014, 08:31:28 pm
Adam Ondra has onsighted Superplafond @ Volx, putting in the draws as he went. It's only 8c+ but...
Source (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=4196 :popcorn:6)

Now that is pretty cool! Old school! Who goes to Volx these days?!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: mark on July 17, 2014, 10:05:07 pm
Adam Ondra has onsighted Superplafond @ Volx, putting in the draws as he went. It's only 8c+ but...
Source (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=4196 :popcorn:6)

Now that is pretty cool! Old school! Who goes to Volx these days?!

And in July? Volx is one of the best crags in the world, that's undeniable, but it is prone to getting ever so slightly greasy, so it's a winter crag.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on July 17, 2014, 10:41:41 pm
And the crux is a slopey boulder problem right at the top!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Clart on July 18, 2014, 12:15:32 am
Shit the bed. Would love to see a vid of that. Got a vid of Jibe doing back in the day (masters of stone 3?). Barring two daft mistakes in the comps his training with Paxi seems to be going well.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on July 18, 2014, 09:30:47 am
That's completely mental. The crux of Maginot Line is hard and the Terminator finish is "only" 8b but as doylo says it's basically a grim slopey boulder problem and as the rest of Terminator is easy you can imagine what it's like.

Quote
"no one has ever onsighted a route of this difficulty dates back to before 2000." When asked for further explanation, Ondra pointed out "Well, it's always seemed to me that all the routes I've done that date back to the 90's are really tough for the grade, that's why I really wasn't expecting to onsight it. "

 :bow:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on July 18, 2014, 09:52:01 am
 :dance1:
Fantastic.
Superplafond on sight.
Hubble still no tick.
Take that Jibé!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: JMB on July 22, 2014, 06:58:20 pm
Via ClimbingNarc on Facebook:

(https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xaf1/t1.0-9/10570486_790778327629758_6307192595514898823_n.jpg)

Quote
Somebody sent "Biographie" in Ceuse today!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on July 22, 2014, 07:21:53 pm
About fuckin time!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on August 03, 2014, 07:14:28 pm
For your viewing (dis)pleasure, the mistake which got him disqualified from the cham wc:

https://vimeo.com/102146282
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: willackers on August 03, 2014, 07:27:07 pm
 :slap: silly sausage
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Clart on August 03, 2014, 08:43:34 pm
For your viewing (dis)pleasure, the mistake which got him disqualified from the cham wc:

https://vimeo.com/102146282

That's harsh.

If I was a betting man, and assuming anyone would have taken the bet, I would have bet a lot on Ondra dominating this year's climbing comp given his have-a-go effort at the end of last season, his very near miss in the bouldering round he entered and unmatched onsighting ability. He has, however, had a miserable season by anyones standards. I'd say he's feeling the pressure but it's not like he hasn't done comps before.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on August 04, 2014, 09:17:06 am
D'oh. Schoolboy error.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Baldy on August 05, 2014, 11:13:47 am
There's going to be a lot of climbers that can now say that they beat Ondra in competition.

 ;D
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: JackAus on September 03, 2014, 10:23:29 pm
Adam Ondra - Illusionost 9a on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/105151286)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Muenchener on September 03, 2014, 10:33:49 pm
There's going to be a lot of climbers that can now say that they beat Ondra in competition.

Why do you think I have "flash La Marie Rose" on my to do list?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on September 03, 2014, 11:00:03 pm
He normally makes 9a look easier than that!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: krymson on September 04, 2014, 01:38:35 am
Indeed! must not be his style.
Or  maybe it's old-school 9a
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on September 04, 2014, 11:18:15 am
Very nice film as usual.

The route did look a bit imbalanced, but still cool to see him climbing it.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: cowboyhat on September 04, 2014, 11:42:50 am
Adam Ondra - Illusionost 9a on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/105151286)

So many amazing moments in that clip, foremost being the look on his face when he's sat by the lake at 4.36. Is he thinking about banging one of those Scanda chicks?

Then straight into that amzing dismount at 4.50!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Luke Owens on September 04, 2014, 12:21:23 pm
Great video, I love how unphased he is about the deck-outs!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Stu Littlefair on September 04, 2014, 12:33:36 pm
I'd have kicked the shit out of my belayer. After maybe the third time he hits the deck off the crux, she's still stood there with loops of slack out and a gormless look on her face.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: highrepute on September 04, 2014, 12:46:16 pm
i believe it's deliberate so that his swing isn't stopped by the rope
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Stu Littlefair on September 04, 2014, 12:47:30 pm
I believe it's shit belaying
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Three Nine on September 04, 2014, 12:49:05 pm
I'd have kicked the shit out of my belayer. After maybe the third time he hits the deck off the crux, she's still stood there with loops of slack out and a gormless look on her face.

That would be very ungentlemanly of you. She's hot, and Ondra's not a pussy like you.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Gus on September 04, 2014, 01:20:00 pm
Gotta agree with Stu, that belaying is beyond shambles!!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on September 04, 2014, 01:23:45 pm
Interesting. The Ondranator is obviously okay with it even if you lot aren't - look how casually he touches down on the final fall of that section. I presume they've discussed the belaying and that's the way he prefers. Although a pad on that rock wouldn't go amiss!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on September 04, 2014, 03:07:25 pm
The amount of slack is clearly so that the rope cannot in any way help to stop the swing. Ondra comes across as a bit extrem on ethical issues from time to time.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fultonius on September 04, 2014, 03:16:55 pm
Clearly it's just poorly bolted, which chump bolted it?  ;)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on September 04, 2014, 03:20:18 pm
IIRC on La Rambla he skipped a clip that was above his head on the crux slab on top, because he thought that otherwise the weight of the rope would have pulled him up.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: JohnM on September 04, 2014, 04:15:29 pm
Looks well nice that Flatanger.  The part of me that doesn't like following the crowd to the latest in vogue climbing area doesn't want to go there.  Every other part of me does!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on September 04, 2014, 06:55:48 pm
Yes he was keen to avoid rope killing the swing and yes he still didn't need that much slack. He seemed to be happy with the belay though. Probably didn't want to offend the young lady  :lets_do_it_wild:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: ferret on September 07, 2014, 03:26:58 am
I'd have kicked the shit out of my belayer. After maybe the third time he hits the deck off the crux, she's still stood there with loops of slack out and a gormless look on her face.

After 3 days of listening to him scream like a demented child I'd be trying to drop him onto a rock too! Somebody give the poor lass some ear muffs ffs.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Clart on September 15, 2014, 09:04:02 pm
World Championship Spoiler Alert.........

NSFW  :
Ondra, officially wad of wads. World bouldering and lead champion, climber of 9b+s and potty mouth.

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on September 22, 2014, 06:10:54 pm
This interview is dynamite: http://eveningsends.com/climbing/adam-ondra-turns-pain-joy/ (http://eveningsends.com/climbing/adam-ondra-turns-pain-joy/)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on September 22, 2014, 06:45:40 pm
Quality. Funny to see Ondra saying he's too heavy, climbers are all the same really aren't they.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on September 22, 2014, 07:41:31 pm
Quote from: Ondrawad
not heavy for my height, of course; losing weight would not be wise in my case
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on September 22, 2014, 08:05:10 pm
Still saying he'd get spanked on a crimp ladder by the lightweights  :ras:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on September 22, 2014, 09:15:15 pm
That's physics innit, the scaling law
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Kingy on September 22, 2014, 09:34:27 pm
He's got guns these days, whats Paxti been doing to him
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: cjsheps on September 22, 2014, 10:11:15 pm
It's interesting that he says he's naturally strong, and retains his strength well, when he claimed in Progression that he's "basically weak".
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on September 22, 2014, 11:43:36 pm
It's not interesting, it's clearly bollocks.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Muenchener on September 23, 2014, 07:00:19 am
The only thing I find remotely interesting about lead competitions is that it's still possible for people who are good at actual rock climbing to do well in them.  If/when that changes then what little residual interest I have in them will be gone.

Competition bouldering otoh I find pretty cool as a spectator sport in its own right.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on September 23, 2014, 09:09:34 am
 :offtopic:
He's got guns these days, whats Paxti been doing to him
I bet it's not Patxi, it's the  :lets_do_it_wild: :lets_do_it_wild: :lets_do_it_wild:
After the Lead World Champ victory he seemed to be quite chuffed with his girlfriend.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: gme on September 23, 2014, 10:59:30 am
Nibile- do you know what training methods he uses for the :lets_do_it_wild: :lets_do_it_wild: :lets_do_it_wild:

My approach has always been along the short, maximal effort kind of method but my wife feels that i need to work on my ancap.

Thoughts?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on September 23, 2014, 12:19:34 pm
 ;D
He's both Bouldering and Lead world champion, so I guess he must be good at both.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Durbs on September 23, 2014, 01:08:31 pm
I wonder if he still goes in for such loud power screams during these sessions
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: tommytwotone on September 24, 2014, 09:45:49 am
Nibile- do you know what training methods he uses for the :lets_do_it_wild: :lets_do_it_wild: :lets_do_it_wild:

My approach has always been along the short, maximal effort kind of method but my wife feels that i need to work on my ancap.

Thoughts?


Don't ask Nibs, he'll have you trying to do it while one-arming the 45s on the Beastmaker.



Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: tomtom on September 24, 2014, 09:53:00 am
To be a true hero he needs to master the roll over and be disinterested move afterwards...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Wood FT on September 24, 2014, 12:04:38 pm
I wonder if he still goes in for such loud power screams during these sessions

well, that's that image stuck in my head for the rest of the day. fuck.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on September 24, 2014, 12:06:57 pm
fuck.

That's about it.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on September 24, 2014, 12:17:59 pm
Ondra doesn't fuck. Fools
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: masonwoods101 on September 24, 2014, 12:32:20 pm
He makes love?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Yoof on October 02, 2014, 09:37:45 am
It's interesting that he says he's naturally strong, and retains his strength well, when he claimed in Progression that he's "basically weak".

Wasn't he 16 in Progression?. More age and puberty and shit -> muscle and power/strength
(one of my more eloquent sentences)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Clart on October 18, 2014, 03:52:55 pm
New vid 'Change' released tomorrow (19th of Oct) apparently (http://www.change-movie.com/news (http://www.change-movie.com/news))  :dance1:


Adam Ondra: Rock and Plastic on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/108181653)

Ondra on Realisation, "I had to try quite hard".
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: cheque on October 18, 2014, 04:48:08 pm
New vid 'Change' released tomorrow (19th of Oct) apparently

I'd better warn the neighbours.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on October 18, 2014, 10:16:47 pm
I better warn my pants!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Clart on October 18, 2014, 11:13:55 pm
I better warn my pants!

That was very...
(http://i.ytimg.com/vi/V_npFEdZsE8/hqdefault.jpg)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Clart on October 25, 2014, 10:34:09 am
Ondra film 'definitely' going to be released tomorrow. Similar delay to last time. I just hope it's not just comprised of all the short vids that were released over the last 24 months.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on October 25, 2014, 01:27:58 pm
On FB there's a video with Ondra onsighting two 8c+, one of which was 9a.
Clearly it wasn't newsworthy enough as to make it into the main movie...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: standard on October 25, 2014, 01:54:21 pm
CHANGE - ADAM ONDRA - 2x 8c/+ ON-SIGHT on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/109956376)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Clart on October 26, 2014, 08:39:55 pm
At long last......

http://www.change-movie.com/ (http://www.change-movie.com/)


Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: HaeMeS on October 27, 2014, 11:10:11 am
Worth the money in my opinion. Watch with headphones or warn the neighbours.

Why buy?: 2 hours of Ondra in Norway.  :2thumbsup:
Why not to buy?: contains driving to the crag, 50% climbing, 50% Norway.

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Moo on October 27, 2014, 08:27:30 pm
Terrible terrible terrible film.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on October 28, 2014, 12:18:35 pm
Quite enjoyed it myself. Stands up pretty well as something you might watch with the family compared to the usual climbing flicks (where you have to spend at least 5 years sitting in grotty caves full of sheep shit before you can start to appreciate them.)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: bendavison on October 28, 2014, 12:41:06 pm
Its one of the few films which really show redpoint frustration, which was brilliant. However, there was a surprising about of shit footage and bad editing given how long its been in production. I'm surprised he could find so much room for shots of their feet as they were dragging round a canoe, but couldn't fit in 10 more mins of the first ascents (actual or repeated for the camera) of Dharma and Art of Flight, and more than 30 seconds of onsight footage.

I was a bit disappointed if I'm honest.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: r-man on October 28, 2014, 01:51:34 pm
I found the full movie streamed online, for free. Just click play. Gets a bit boring at the 30min mark, but picks up again towards the end.

http://coub.com/view/3tija (http://coub.com/view/3tija)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Danny on October 28, 2014, 02:25:29 pm
If it's anything like the stuff already online I wont be wasting my cash on it. To many shots of belayers and superficial context shots of the environment.

Clearly, the main reason any world class climbers travel to the arse end of Norway is to climb in a massive, world class granite cave, rather than to contemplate the landscape with all the false sincerity they can muster. A bit of context is welcome, but if it's half of a two hour film which is essentially about trying to climb the hardest route in the world, well that seems a bit silly to me.

Presumptuous, and probably a bit harsh, but there you go. The home-made efforts of the Belgian big wallers are, by far, the most worthwhile climbing films I've seen in recent years. Whenever climbing films try to get 'deeper' and present the activity as more than what it actually is, I cringe.   
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Wood FT on October 28, 2014, 04:46:40 pm
The home-made efforts of the Belgian big wallers are, by far, the most worthwhile climbing films I've seen in recent years.

A to the men on that one. Brilliant and inspiring films.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: PipeSmoke on October 28, 2014, 08:05:18 pm
The home-made efforts of the Belgian big wallers are, by far, the most worthwhile climbing films I've seen in recent years.

Which films are these? Would love to give them a watch
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Grigor on October 28, 2014, 08:37:25 pm
The home-made efforts of the Belgian big wallers are, by far, the most worthwhile climbing films I've seen in recent years.

Which films are these? Would love to give them a watch

There are a few around, with a mixed cast of heroes but usually involving Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll and frequently Nicolas Favresse.

Greenland:   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OsVl_rzkcx0 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OsVl_rzkcx0)
Patagonia:   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cTfH40D-cfU&list=WL&index=61 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cTfH40D-cfU&list=WL&index=61)
China:   http://www.xpedition.be/?p=579 (http://www.xpedition.be/?p=579)

No doubt there are more and others may post links (and better links). They're great videos without exception...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: petejh on October 28, 2014, 11:53:58 pm
This is the best climbing film I've ever watched in nearly 20 years - better even than The Real Thing! Perhaps I'm too sentimental but I loved how the film opens out to explore the vast land in which its set, as well as zooming in to micro-focus on roughly 25(?) failed attempts on a single move on the hardest route in the world. Ondra is so utterly single-minded! It's got everything, even trad gear-ripping deck-outs. Outstanding.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: haydn jones on October 29, 2014, 04:06:28 pm
I'm gonna just leave this video of Ondra doing interpretive dance of climbing here....

mejcup laws: No. 1 on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/109436405)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: finbarrr on October 29, 2014, 06:07:26 pm
 :beer2:
 :popcorn:
That video is great

The change movie ... Really good shots of Norway, some good climbing shots.
BUT boy did it get on my nerves that trees, lakes and clouds got slow motion, and most of the climbing literally got fast forwarded
 :furious:

Peter the filmmaker does not love , dare I say it, he does not even like climbing, and it shows
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: a dense loner on October 30, 2014, 02:01:46 am
I wasn't impressed with it either. I like Ondra, places looked good, just didn't really hold any interest for me. Hard to believe it was 2 years in the making
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Rocksteady on December 01, 2014, 12:29:12 pm
I see that Ondra has outwadded all the other wads in the La Sportiva Legends comp.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=69338 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=69338)

It's getting a bit ridiculous how much better he is than everyone else.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: finbarrr on December 01, 2014, 01:44:56 pm
you could have put a spoiler-alert on that post (?), good thing i already watched it


all that endurance training paid off  :???:
, he seemed fresh as a daisy at the end of that  :clap2:

loved how the commentator kept saying that the moves and boulders were really hard, when someone made a boulder look easy.

to win with such a margin from this bunch of competitors..  :bow:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on December 04, 2014, 09:48:58 pm
100 9a or harder (http://www.planetmountain.com/News/shownews1.lasso?l=1&keyid=42340) for young master Ondra.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on December 04, 2014, 10:15:20 pm
Obscene stat.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: bigironhorse on December 04, 2014, 10:24:45 pm
100 9a or harder (http://www.planetmountain.com/News/shownews1.lasso?l=1&keyid=42340) for young master Ondra.

Incredible achievement, would be interesting to know who is in second place for ticking grade 9's? Ramon has done 38 according to 8a
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on December 04, 2014, 10:28:26 pm
With sixty-eight 9a, twenty 9a+, nine 9b and three 9b+ already in the bag 9c cannot be too far off?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on December 05, 2014, 09:18:27 am
With sixty-eight 9a, twenty 9a+, nine 9b and three 9b+ already in the bag 9c cannot be too far off?

Finding a doable 9c must be pretty tricky!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: gme on December 05, 2014, 09:26:57 am
He has at least one that he has done all the moves on in Flatanger.

After watching him win the comp last weekend, when he made the worlds strongest boulderers look pretty average, and now seen this stat he truly is so far ahead of everyone, Megos is pitched at being close but i think the gap is still pretty big.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on December 05, 2014, 09:35:01 am
Megos has got the potential but Ondras got quite a few years on him. Be interesting to see how Megos gets on if/when he starts trying 9bs.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on December 05, 2014, 12:58:04 pm
100 9a or harder (http://www.planetmountain.com/News/shownews1.lasso?l=1&keyid=42340) for young master Ondra.

Incredible achievement, would be interesting to know who is in second place for ticking grade 9's? Ramon has done 38 according to 8a
Sharma must be close. The only other climber with a substantial number of 9bs
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: r-man on December 05, 2014, 01:38:14 pm
Quote from: 8a.nu
The runner up on this exclusive list are Ramonet and Dani Andrada with around 40 and Chris Sharma with some 35.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: a dense loner on December 05, 2014, 01:47:29 pm
100 9a's and harder! Ridiculous stat  :popcorn:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on December 05, 2014, 01:51:33 pm
9a, decades old trade routes, have been flashed, etc  ;)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Muenchener on December 05, 2014, 04:03:48 pm
Adam Ondra, the 100 x 9a or harder interview (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=42342&utm_source=dlvr.it&utm_medium=twitter)

Quote
Hubble ... Ben Moon was ahead of his time by a huge margin!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: kelvin on December 05, 2014, 04:25:27 pm
Adam Ondra, the 100 x 9a or harder interview (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=42342&utm_source=dlvr.it&utm_medium=twitter)

Quote
Hubble ... Ben Moon was ahead of his time by a huge margin!

"So where are your weaknesses? And what do you do to improve them?
"This may sound stupid, but I am still weak. I can still improve my raw power. ""
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on December 05, 2014, 04:26:57 pm
Not quite as bad as Mcclure downplaying his finger strength.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on December 05, 2014, 05:52:02 pm
How many of us understand how much power he needs to climb 9c? Extrapolation gives me that he need insane endurance, or the ability to boulder around 9A
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Moo on December 05, 2014, 06:19:40 pm
 
9b+     3       
 
9b        9       
 
9a+     20       
 
9a      68       
 
8c+   111       
 
8c      130

 :jaw:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on December 05, 2014, 08:10:50 pm
Adam Ondra, the 100 x 9a or harder interview (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=42342&utm_source=dlvr.it&utm_medium=twitter)
Once again I as impressed by his eloquence, positivity, and love for climbing, as all the big numbers.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: cheque on December 05, 2014, 08:35:22 pm
Does anyone know how many 9th grade routes there are? Before today I would have guessed 100 or less. Is Ondra well on his way to ticking them all or am I just completely clueless or both?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: a dense loner on December 05, 2014, 09:17:13 pm
Clueless  ;)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: r-man on December 05, 2014, 09:28:44 pm
I pasted this list into excel and it came up with about 185. This list probably isn't definitive but somewhere round 200 seems likely.

http://www.udini.com/climboid/hardestmoves (http://www.udini.com/climboid/hardestmoves)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: iwasmexican on December 06, 2014, 12:54:09 am
Not quite as bad as Mcclure downplaying his finger strength.

so tell me he looks as strong as nalle watching these side by side:

Adam Ondra climbing Gioia 8C+ (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tMNZGPnwve4#ws)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=Fezk14WH3jI#t=152 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=Fezk14WH3jI#t=152)

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Kingy on December 06, 2014, 08:28:15 am
True Nalle looks more solid but I reckon he probs worked it for longer.. and that was a while ago, with Paxti's ubertraining workouts, I bet Ondra would path that now
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: mini on December 06, 2014, 09:07:34 am
Watch Ondra on mute and you get a much different impression.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: r-man on December 06, 2014, 11:08:47 am
True Nalle looks more solid but I reckon he probs worked it for longer..

Why do you think that? A quick google search shows Ondra worked it for 11 days. Nalle was apparently close in the first week, then had to wait for rain before doing it the next week.

Ondra isn't the only beast training hard!

Ondra has made a point of repeating lots of older routes and Nalle seems to be doing the same on the boulders with Gioia, Bugeleisen, Emotional Landscapes etc.

Then there's Woods, with 19 8C's! Possibly even more impressive than Ondra's 100 - it's a huge quantity of ascents at pretty much the top grade in bouldering, whereas Ondra has only done 12 9b/+.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on December 06, 2014, 11:14:44 am
Ye but boulderings easier  ;)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Kingy on December 06, 2014, 01:13:52 pm
True Nalle looks more solid but I reckon he probs worked it for longer..

Why do you think that? A quick google search shows Ondra worked it for 11 days. Nalle was apparently close in the first week, then had to wait for rain before doing it the next week.

Ondra isn't the only beast training hard!

Ondra has made a point of repeating lots of older routes and Nalle seems to be doing the same on the boulders with Gioia, Bugeleisen, Emotional Landscapes etc.

Then there's Woods, with 19 8C's! Possibly even more impressive than Ondra's 100 - it's a huge quantity of ascents at pretty much the top grade in bouldering, whereas Ondra has only done 12 9b/+.

Yes you may be right there, they probs worked the problem for similar times. I just have the feeling that Ondra may be on a slightly higher level now. I'm with Doylo on this, Wood's achievements are extremely impressive but not as impressive as 100 routes >9a!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on December 06, 2014, 03:47:27 pm
Plus there's quite a lot of 8Cs in the world, there's only 3 9b+s and still relatively few 9bs.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Moo on December 06, 2014, 05:03:00 pm
There's no real debate though here is there, Ondra has done all of the very hardest routes and all of the very hardest boulder problems.

Where there are 8c boulders he hasn't done it's because he hasn't tried them rather than failing on them. He has the hardest flash to date and has proven that he's no slouch on multi pitch routes etc.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: r-man on December 06, 2014, 05:34:18 pm
There's no real debate though here is there, Ondra has done all of the very hardest routes and all of the very hardest boulder problems.

Where there are 8c boulders he hasn't done it's because he hasn't tried them rather than failing on them. He has the hardest flash to date and has proven that he's no slouch on multi pitch routes etc.

Come on, let's not get silly. I'm not disagreeing Ondra is amazing, but he's not God. And he might be the best alround climber but it's not so clear cut on bouldering. For starters, of course he has failed on things. For instance, he never managed Livin Large (though it sounds like he got close) http://www.climbing.com/news/rocklands-wrap-up-by-adam-ondra/ (http://www.climbing.com/news/rocklands-wrap-up-by-adam-ondra/)

...Nobody is that far ahead of the pack these days to be able to do every boulder problem (It's incredible that he seems to be able to do pretty much every sport route though). He says so:

Quote from: http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=39015&utm_source=dlvr.it&utm_medium=facebook
And of course I've failed on many more boulder problems, since in bouldering it's easier to come across certain one-movers that dk!on't suit my style, or perhaps the line doesn't inspire me enough to keep trying. But one day I might be back!

And according to his scorecard he doesn't have any 8B+ flashes, though of course he downgraded Gecko assis (as did Woods and Webb) and Confessions (as did Webb). Woods has flashed Entlinge, 8B+, which he downgraded from 8C. And Webb has 9 8B flashes, whilst Ondra has 7.

All I'm saying is that there are others operating at a similar level in bouldering, whereas in routes Ondra is clearly on his own. (Though it would be interesting to see Megos put more than a couple of days into a project). Of course, it's incredible that he can perform at that level in bouldering whilst also doing so much on routes and occasionally on plastic.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on December 06, 2014, 06:08:38 pm
This is turning into the UKB version of Youtube comments on supercar videos  ::)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: lagerstarfish on December 06, 2014, 07:09:04 pm
out of interest. what's his "almost never fail to onsight and would be really surprised if I did fall off" grade?

routes, that is
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: tomtom on December 07, 2014, 08:43:26 am
HVS
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Clart on December 07, 2014, 10:44:57 am
out of interest. what's his "almost never fail to onsight and would be really surprised if I did fall off" grade?

routes, that is

In bouldering it's < Font 5+ (... from 2:28):


Video #1: BD athlete Adam Ondra bouldering in Fontainebleau, France on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/35171521)



Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Mike Tyson on December 07, 2014, 10:51:47 am
I must be the strongest boulderer out there then as I onsighted that side of L'angle Allain......  :tease:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: a dense loner on December 07, 2014, 10:59:02 am
You don't onsight anything in bouldering!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: nik at work on December 07, 2014, 11:12:08 am
Well maybe you don't... ;)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Mike Tyson on December 07, 2014, 12:41:53 pm
What is the correct terminology then for doing a boulder problem first attempt with no help, pointers or advice?  :off:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: bendavison on December 07, 2014, 12:57:24 pm
out of interest. what's his "almost never fail to onsight and would be really surprised if I did fall off" grade?

He OS/flashed 46% of all his 8b+ according to dpmclimbing: http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/adam-ondra-sends-his-100th-9a. (http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/adam-ondra-sends-his-100th-9a.)

Had a quick look at his 8a scorecard for this year and last year:
8a - flashed/os 90%
8a+ - 96%
8b - 55%
8b+ - 64%
8c - 67%
8c+ - 20%
9a - 13%

So, what tomtom said.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: a dense loner on December 07, 2014, 02:47:05 pm
You just flash it, you can see every move from the floor  :chair:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Mike Tyson on December 07, 2014, 02:58:58 pm
I must be the strongest boulderer out there then as I onsighted flashed that side of L'angle Allain......  :tease:

Better mate?  :P
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: abarro81 on December 07, 2014, 05:24:44 pm
8c - 67%

Holy smokes batman! That's incredible.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: gme on December 16, 2014, 10:29:02 pm
 9a flash and 9a 1st ascent in a day today.
Hardy seems to raise an eyebrow now.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on December 16, 2014, 10:53:39 pm
The 9a flash had a nice little 8B boulder at the start too!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Clart on December 17, 2014, 08:45:01 pm
Glad to hear he hasn't forgotten how to climb on rock after all his plastic pulling. I know Ondra's on-sighted a couple of 9a now (2 or 3 depending on where you look) but how many has he, or anyone else for that matter, flashed? A quick look at 8a.nu says that he's previously flashed a 9a+. I'm guessing Megos has done one?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Sasquatch on February 05, 2015, 05:32:13 pm
From: http://squamishclimbingmagazine.ca/interview-adam-ondra/ (http://squamishclimbingmagazine.ca/interview-adam-ondra/)
Adam Ondra-
Quote
I consider myself being a little bastard in a certain way, because I just climb and get paid for it but I don’t give anything to society, I don’t produce anything or offer a service.
  :lol:

On why he went back to school:
Quote
in my opinion, it is impossible to train more than 4 hours a day, because your skin doesn’t allow you to do more.... thinking 24/7 about climbing is harmful and doesn’t make you climb harder


Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on February 12, 2015, 08:08:37 am
Boom. Gypsy Blood, 8c+ in Santa Linya. On sight, of course

(http://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xaf1/v/t1.0-9/s720x720/10460780_528710127268510_39924149757754083_n.jpg?oh=22dd7e473ddb6701d92dbc726730e78c&oe=5590A447&__gda__=1435886339_2b6c146a56ab82be125a9fb531036670)

(Photo: Manabu Yoneyama)

Also, Sachi Amma did Catxasa (9a+) in 4 attempts

Source (http://www.facebook.com/manabu.yoneyama.3/posts/528710353935154?pnref=story)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on February 12, 2015, 11:42:56 am
Boom. Gypsy Blood, 8c+ in Santa Linya. On sight, of course

According to Sachi Amma's facebook it was a flash. Sorry, nothing to write home about... :yawn: (Would of course be   :strongbench: if it was someone else...)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on February 16, 2015, 06:48:09 pm
http://squamishclimbingmagazine.ca/local-news-adam-ondra-flashes-method-v12/ (http://squamishclimbingmagazine.ca/local-news-adam-ondra-flashes-method-v12/)

Seems like his form is slipping. Only 8c+ second try and techy 8A+ flash to report.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: habrich on February 16, 2015, 11:11:44 pm
As a comment in that link says, the word is that he is trying Dreamcatcher (9a) today. Might go see if he is still there after I have picked up son #2 from school.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Moo on February 16, 2015, 11:27:33 pm
When did dreamcatcher get upgraded?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: habrich on February 17, 2015, 01:25:53 am
It has always been 5.14d as far as I know. That translates to 9a, right?

Anyway, sadly I can report that there was no send today.  Apparently Adam made a strong flash attempt this afternoon. Son #2 and I arrived in time to witness his second try. Embarrassingly my son muttered "I don't think he can climb it" quite audibly as Adam got into the initial slab crux ... at which point he slipped off. That was it for the day I think. It was about to get dark.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Grubes on February 17, 2015, 05:35:16 am
Any interest in the singularity?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: AndyR on February 17, 2015, 07:05:19 am
Son #2 and I arrived in time to witness his second try. Embarrassingly my son muttered "I don't think he can climb it" quite audibly as Adam got into the initial slab crux ... at which point he slipped off.
Was JuniorHabrich firing foam darts at Ondra by any chance?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Muenchener on February 17, 2015, 07:42:22 am
Embarrassingly my son muttered "I don't think he can climb it" quite audibly as Adam got into the initial slab crux ... at which point he slipped off.

So your son is a prophet, a powerful jinx-casting shaman, or an astute analytical observer of sporting activities. I don't see how any of these is embarrassing.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: habrich on February 17, 2015, 03:23:07 pm
Any interest in the singularity?

There were mats under it. As you probably remember, Dreamcatcher starts from the "room" between boulders where the Singularity is located, so Ondra must at least have looked at it. There was some other strong guy, that I didn't recognise, pulling on to it and falling off immediately. Wad-density is higher than usual for the time of year because of the Vancouver Mountain Film Festival.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Grubes on February 17, 2015, 03:52:57 pm
Dreamcatcher starts from the "room" between boulders where the Singularity is located, so Ondra must at least have looked at it.
Yeah thats why I asked.
Ondra is probably saving it for the flash after dream catcher  ;)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: habrich on February 17, 2015, 04:19:08 pm
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/10981217_10153093371882458_3994235917276580440_n.jpg?oh=7e35969ad14e121d42e89428ce20eab9&oe=5596F975&__gda__=1435587088_89cd779d19c439298155e3ef979dc3df)

Ondra on Dreamcatcher, from Farcebook, copyright Jamie Finlayson.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: habrich on February 17, 2015, 04:24:27 pm
Son #2 and I arrived in time to witness his second try. Embarrassingly my son muttered "I don't think he can climb it" quite audibly as Adam got into the initial slab crux ... at which point he slipped off.
Was JuniorHabrich firing foam darts at Ondra by any chance?
No, as I had picked him up directly from school, it was a Nerf-free event. That would have been quite funny though ...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Stubbs on February 17, 2015, 09:46:32 pm
(https://scontent-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/11107_852601991448810_5983445834103050958_n.jpg?oh=7d06114b94f8cae0def2774dddef7761&oe=55888A23)

From Sonnie Trotter on FB, not a bad flash effort!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: r-man on February 18, 2015, 02:19:11 am
Adam Ondra attempting Dreamcatcher on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/119887141)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: habrich on February 18, 2015, 06:58:40 am
Dreamcatcher starts from the "room" between boulders where the Singularity is located, so Ondra must at least have looked at it.
Yeah thats why I asked.
Ondra is probably saving it for the flash after dream catcher  ;)
Update: apparently he did try it.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on February 18, 2015, 10:57:22 am
I wonder why he keeps using Speedsters.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Grubes on February 18, 2015, 11:27:41 am
Update: apparently he did try it.
:o
First repeat?
 :weakbench:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: habrich on February 18, 2015, 02:56:06 pm
No. (Is "try" ambiguous in this context?)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Grubes on February 18, 2015, 03:24:30 pm
no I just read it wrong.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Stubbs on February 18, 2015, 04:18:04 pm
I wonder why he keeps using Speedsters.

They seem to work for him!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: gme on February 18, 2015, 07:42:57 pm
 :spam:
Adam Ondra attempting Dreamcatcher on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/119887141)

Quite possibly the most anticlimactic video ever.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: willackers on February 18, 2015, 09:30:13 pm
:spam:
Adam Ondra attempting Dreamcatcher on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/119887141)

Quite possibly the most anticlimactic video ever.

 :agree:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: gcarmichael on February 18, 2015, 10:05:31 pm
Great interview with Ondra just posted today:

https://www.trainingbeta.com/media/tbp-017-adam-ondra-things-training/?portfolioID=3838 (https://www.trainingbeta.com/media/tbp-017-adam-ondra-things-training/?portfolioID=3838)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: habrich on February 18, 2015, 11:22:56 pm
:spam:
Adam Ondra attempting Dreamcatcher on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/119887141)

Quite possibly the most anticlimactic video ever.

Christ, we Canadians are milking this brief royal visit for all its worth! Here's another video, just as anti-climatic, though with extra Sonnie Trotter.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mwOK39Yj8RU (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mwOK39Yj8RU#ws)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: kelvin on February 19, 2015, 12:33:34 am
Royal visit or not - that music was awful. One does not approve.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: T_B on February 19, 2015, 08:26:45 am
Great interview with Ondra just posted today:

https://www.trainingbeta.com/media/tbp-017-adam-ondra-things-training/?portfolioID=3838 (https://www.trainingbeta.com/media/tbp-017-adam-ondra-things-training/?portfolioID=3838)

Agreed (despite some of the questions from the interviewer). He's certainly an impressive all round dude.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: habrich on February 19, 2015, 03:57:02 pm
+1

Doesn't sound like Ondra has ever done a deadlift  :whistle:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on February 19, 2015, 04:13:12 pm
And that's exactly why he keeps saying that he's weak. Because he knows it.  ;)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: petejh on February 20, 2015, 12:49:51 pm
Excellent. This and the interview with the Anderson brothers are probably the two best podcasts about training for climbing that I've listened to.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Clart on February 20, 2015, 03:15:49 pm
Agreed, was a great interview. There are a lot of examples in sport where you have the naturally talented and the training masochists. Combining the best in both fields is, I would imagine, rare and it will be fascinating to see what Ondra does with the combination over the next couple of years
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Duma on February 21, 2015, 10:48:36 pm
Excellent, lots of good stuff, thanks for the link
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on June 03, 2015, 10:26:19 am
Is 8c, 8b flash and 8b+ first ascent IN A DAY still newsworthy for bouldering?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: fatneck on June 03, 2015, 10:30:47 am
I'd say hell yeah! Links? Story?

Edit  (http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=69764)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: dave k on June 03, 2015, 10:48:19 am
I'd say hell yeah! Links? Story?

Edit  (http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=69764)

A few details on 8a.nu
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on June 03, 2015, 10:53:00 am
A few details on 8a.nu

How helpful of you to link to them.  ;)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on June 03, 2015, 11:43:10 am
No links to 8a please, it only improves the idiot's google score.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on June 03, 2015, 12:10:15 pm
 :oops: :sorry:

A copy and paste would be useful then as saying some information is on a given website but not including it will in many cases have the same result as including a link, i.e. an extra visit to the site when someone goes to read it.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: dave k on June 03, 2015, 02:33:29 pm
A few details on 8a.nu

How helpful of you to link to them.  ;)

Did try to copy and paste previously, but was a bit rushed for time and failed. Here you go.

Adam Ondra has together with many of the Boulder World Cup guys spent a day in RMNP where he needed just some few attempts to do White noise 8C, flashed Bear toss 8B and made a 8B+ FA. © Chad Greedy (Instagram) (copied from 8a.nu)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on June 03, 2015, 02:35:40 pm
Shaka ding
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: petejh on June 03, 2015, 03:25:34 pm
It's funny because even without the 'copied from 8a.nu' I could tell it was from that site...

Ondra has together with many of the..
..just some few attempts
..and made a 8B+ FA


I like it, and think we should many of us post in that style.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on June 03, 2015, 03:26:00 pm
Ondra has together with many of the Boulder World Cup guys spent a day in RMNP where he needed just some few attempts to do White noise 8C, flashed Bear toss 8B and made a 8B+ FA. © Chad Greedy (Instagram) (copied from 8a.nu)

Thats exactly whats in the UKC write-up fatneck had already linked to.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Richie Crouch on June 03, 2015, 08:24:45 pm
I love hearing about/watching anything Ondra does, such a monster! Hope he does well in the bouldering World Cup season.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Rocksteady on June 04, 2015, 09:51:21 am
8B, 8B+ and 8C all in the same day is flippin' ridiculous. One could be extremely proud of this as a lifetime's achievement at the almost cutting edge. That guy is another level of beast. 
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on June 04, 2015, 09:53:22 am
8B, 8B+ and 8C all in the same day is flippin' ridiculous. One could be extremely proud of this as a lifetime's achievement at the almost cutting edge. That guy is another level of beast.
One could be proud of each one of those feats as a single lifetime achievement...
8b flash: lifetime achievement
8b+ first ascent: lifetime achievement
8c: idem.
Now put them all together.
Now do them in a day.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: petejh on June 04, 2015, 10:33:56 am
Bloody ell.

Clearly the limiting factor, in terms of bouldering difficulty, is the rock not the man.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: psab on June 05, 2015, 02:40:04 pm
(http://farm1.staticflickr.com/310/18301822268_a0f7fff5fd_b.jpg)

Meanwhile at Hypnotized Minds, Dave Graham shows his approval for Ondras rendition of "One of us on the holds/Oh Johnny G"......
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on June 05, 2015, 02:46:06 pm
dab
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Baldy on June 05, 2015, 04:50:56 pm
Looks like someone dragged that photo right out of the 90's
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: bendavison on June 05, 2015, 05:04:38 pm
"One of us on the holds/Oh Johnny G"......

'One armers on the holds', no? Or as I missing a joke?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: andy popp on June 08, 2015, 05:51:37 am
He's flashed Jade.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on June 08, 2015, 06:39:44 am
He's flashed Jade.

Quote from: andrew bisharat
Congrats to Adam Ondra on flashing Jade (V14) today ... the world cup stuff is kinda cool, but this is what makes Adam a legend (https://twitter.com/EveningSends/status/607757361999015936)

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Pako on June 08, 2015, 07:09:53 am
And he flashed a v13 right after... Bloody insane. This is his third v14 flash including Gecko Assis and Confessions.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Clart on June 08, 2015, 07:29:48 am
 
He's flashed Jade.
:jaw: Class of his own on rock.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: 36chambers on June 08, 2015, 07:36:24 am
video on the island website (apologises for lack of embedding)

https://www.island.io/island/adam-ondra-flashes-in-rmnp
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: T_B on June 08, 2015, 07:36:47 am
FFS, what a beast. Especially as he's not looked on top form in the comps. That vid with Dave Graham's reaction is awesome!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: dave on June 08, 2015, 07:42:23 am

He's flashed Jade.

O

M

G
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: tomtom on June 08, 2015, 07:48:17 am
video on the island website (apologises for lack of embedding)

https://www.island.io/island/adam-ondra-flashes-in-rmnp

Great vid - the chat at the end 'dude did that even feel hard?' :D
Though watch out for the full bore Ondra power scream about 4 min in.. (it scared the cat..)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on June 08, 2015, 07:49:18 am
+1
Great video, and great live commenting from the older wizard
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Grubes on June 08, 2015, 07:51:29 am
 :o :jaw:

Ondra power scream  (it scared the cat..)
;D
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Duma on June 08, 2015, 08:23:00 am
[emoji144]
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: iain on June 08, 2015, 08:29:51 am
Just amazing.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: benno on June 08, 2015, 08:54:08 am
That's INCREDIBLE!  :o
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on June 08, 2015, 09:03:49 am
Just ridiculous. Obscene, not so long ago that was the hardest problem in America. After seeing him flailing on those stupid comp problems this puts it in perspective. THAT'S what's it's all about!!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on June 08, 2015, 09:12:38 am
After seeing him flailing on those stupid comp problems this puts it in perspective. THAT'S what's it's all about!!

Comps are just a means for him to get around the world and climb in different places.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: gme on June 08, 2015, 09:22:03 am
Amazing. Its great to see someone as good as Graham feeling the same as us normal folks do when someone better than you pisses up your test piece.

And the poor kid in the red tee shirt just looks ready to give up after Ondra walks up the 8B hes probably been trying for years.

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Pako on June 08, 2015, 09:28:44 am
Makes you wonder, are there any simple strength moves that can't be flashed?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on June 08, 2015, 09:29:40 am
It makes it much better with Graham being there. There's footage of him trying it in 2001.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on June 08, 2015, 09:32:38 am
Amazing. Its great to see someone as good as Graham feeling the same as us normal folks do when someone better than you pisses up your test piece.

Flowchart:

Code: [Select]
              Is someone going to
              flash your proj?
                    |
                    |
                    |
              are you Alex Megos?——-yes--->Nobody is not going to flash your proj
                    |                                        (but stop Adam from trying)
                    |
                    |
                   no
                    |
                    |                   
                   \/
              are you Adam Ondra?——-yes--->Nobody is not going to flash your proj
                    |
                    |
                   no
                    |
                    |                   
                   \/
             Somebody will flash
             your proj.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: fatneck on June 08, 2015, 09:36:53 am
Just WOW!! Amazing...  :punk:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: petejh on June 08, 2015, 09:37:58 am
Best clip ever. Perfect combo of action and reaction  :bow:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on June 08, 2015, 09:40:47 am
He's definitely the new Gaskins  :whistle:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: a dense loner on June 08, 2015, 10:04:32 am
Good lord!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: cheque on June 08, 2015, 10:10:20 am
Fantastic.

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Moo on June 08, 2015, 10:12:46 am
That was both not surprising and totally inspiring  :bow:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: kelvin on June 08, 2015, 10:21:22 am
He really is something special - nice to see Dave Graham genuinely psyched too.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Muenchener on June 08, 2015, 11:03:31 am
Holy shit  :jaw:

Best bouldering vid ever
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on June 08, 2015, 11:05:06 am
nice to see Dave Graham genuinely psyched too.

When is he ever not psyched?

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: kelvin on June 08, 2015, 11:08:27 am
nice to see Dave Graham genuinely psyched too.

When is he ever not psyched?

I admit to having a film of him being interviewed on a trailer step and playing it when I need a bit of a psyche boost  ;D
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Pako on June 08, 2015, 11:10:54 am
nice to see Dave Graham genuinely psyched too.

When is he ever not psyched?

The guy is always a joy to watch, probably one of the most genuine seeming top climbers out there
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Falling Down on June 08, 2015, 11:28:11 am
Wow.  So impressive.  Dave Graham looks completely gobsmacked.  Amazing stuff.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on June 08, 2015, 11:42:35 am
That's ridiculous.
Truly amazing guy. As happy as a man can be, infectious psyche!
Great.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: r-man on June 08, 2015, 12:31:20 pm
Amazing.

Hopefully this will silence all those people who have been insisting for some time that individual moves can't get much harder, and the future of hard bouldering is just link ups.

8B move flashed. Static. Bouldering still has a long way to go.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: cofe on June 08, 2015, 01:20:59 pm
Incredible.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: cofe on June 08, 2015, 01:27:17 pm
Does anybody know if Martin is OK?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: turnipturned on June 08, 2015, 01:38:53 pm
Mad!

Does anybody know if Martin is OK?

Looks like he did "Don't Get too Greedy". Not  :shit: but when climbing with Ondra we are all punters.

Crazy DG hasn't done Jade

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: cowboyhat on June 08, 2015, 02:15:12 pm
The context provided by Dave Graham makes that one of the best vids ever.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Grubes on June 08, 2015, 02:37:21 pm
Crazy DG hasn't done Jade
I thought dave finally did it last year or year before?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: sidewinder on June 08, 2015, 04:33:14 pm
Fairly impressed they walked up!  I tried to walk up to Chaos Canyon for a look last week and gave up as repeatedly sinking past my knees in snow was no fun, plus several people had mentioned everything was snowed in (though obviously not the jade block) I wonder what they warmed up on?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on June 08, 2015, 05:05:03 pm
Don't get too greedy should be OK for warmup, well within the flash grade and all...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: sherlock on June 09, 2015, 11:45:52 am
Inspiring.Great vid :clap2:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Luke Owens on June 09, 2015, 01:02:02 pm
Amazing, great video. Love Dave's reaction!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on June 09, 2015, 05:26:31 pm
+1,  :agree: , "Like", etc etc  :strongbench:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: oracle on June 09, 2015, 06:30:47 pm
Chad lol power to burn man...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: oracle on June 09, 2015, 06:33:45 pm
It makes it much better with Graham being there. There's footage of him trying it in 2001.

I have seen this footage its good was on YouTube but haven't been able to track it down in years got him doing some other amazing boulders too
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: fatneck on June 10, 2015, 10:27:59 am
Love DG trying to hide a spliff after the ascent :)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on June 10, 2015, 10:37:32 am
Love DG trying to hide a spliff after the ascent :)

Where can I get this smelly-vision? :clown:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on July 27, 2015, 06:12:08 pm
Just another day at the office. 2 x 8c onsights, repeat of Three Degrees of Separation. http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=69866
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on July 27, 2015, 06:23:41 pm
Since that's just a rewrite of Kairn's report, I'll link (http://www.kairn.com/fr/escalade/95340/adam-ondra-de-passage-en-france.html) to that as well

In short: Three degrees of separation, ~9a, Céüse, first repeat

Face Bouc, 8c on Face Bouc in Ailefroide, onsight. In bad conditions (I was in Briançon that day)

(http://www.etienne-seppecher.com/new/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/sans-titre-65.jpg)
Photo: http://www.etienne-seppecher.com/

Spanish caravane, 8c in the Ramirole sector on the left side of Verdon, onsight.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: a dense loner on July 27, 2015, 07:06:22 pm
Nice pic, the rest goes without saying  :weakbench:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on July 28, 2015, 08:02:17 pm
Nice writeup on  planetmountain  (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=42938)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Duma on July 28, 2015, 08:45:53 pm
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AV3_YVu5B44&feature=youtu.be

terrible, incomplete vid...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: standard on July 28, 2015, 09:40:50 pm
Surprised he's wearing Solutions.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: TheTwig on July 29, 2015, 03:32:26 am
People were saying 3 degrees of seperation was impossible to repeat. Ondra is such a beast, I would say this kind of climb is his anti-style (if he could have one). I really hope there was someone filming with an actual camera though. That twat with the phone.............. :chair: :ras: :thumbsdown:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: moose on July 29, 2015, 07:44:00 am
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AV3_YVu5B44&feature=youtu.be

terrible, incomplete vid...

"One Degree of Separation"
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Baldy on July 29, 2015, 06:56:05 pm
It's not working... Stupid question perhaps, but did anyone download it?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Clart on July 31, 2015, 11:03:45 am
In the absence of any 3degs footage here's a video of Ondra climbing to 80s pr0n music, made even better by the commentator at 3:08:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hNwzTa-YFPQ
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on July 31, 2015, 11:16:07 pm
In the absence of any 3degs footage here's a video of Ondra climbing shaking out a lot to 80s pr0n music, made even better by the commentator at 3:08:
Always nice to watch him, on almost anything.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: haydn jones on September 09, 2015, 12:26:44 pm
Flashed chromosome y 9a last month. Hillarious  how 9a flash doesn't make news anymore.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on September 09, 2015, 12:31:17 pm
Thought that was last year? http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=69381
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: abarro81 on September 09, 2015, 12:38:29 pm
13th Dec 2014 on his scorecard
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: haydn jones on September 09, 2015, 01:51:06 pm
Huh. His score card was messed up when i looked at it a minute ago. Nvm
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: duncan on November 04, 2015, 09:59:05 am
New 9b in the south of France (http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/adam-ondra-sends-new-515b-france). "C.R.S." (a lovely bunch (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Compagnies_R%C3%A9publicaines_de_S%C3%A9curit%C3%A9))
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: abarro81 on November 04, 2015, 11:21:22 am
Nice. I think it's the same crag as this 9a which look awesome: https://vimeo.com/121973444
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: a dense loner on November 04, 2015, 09:03:40 pm
Good cheesy vid! Rock looks incredible.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on November 05, 2015, 08:59:21 pm
3 days, 9 attempts. So not very hard then?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Clart on November 10, 2015, 10:04:06 pm
Barely noteworthy I know but he also repeated Megos's 9a+ Modified in the Frankenjura:

 https://vimeo.com/144674687
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on November 11, 2015, 12:30:06 pm
For a moment there i didn't think we were even going to get a power scream.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Clart on November 11, 2015, 01:01:47 pm
For a moment there i didn't think we were even going to get a power scream.
Yeh, it was all a bit casual for the first 2/3rds.

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on November 15, 2015, 07:57:43 pm
Won the total world cup in lead and combined today. Not bad.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Clart on December 28, 2015, 09:55:11 am
Vid of Ondra climbing Predator 9a+ on 19th Nov 2015

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HxB-n-frg0A

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on December 28, 2015, 04:34:05 pm
Bouldery looking fucker that  :strongbench:

Rock looks almost as dung as Peaks Limestone   :sick:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on February 20, 2016, 02:19:54 pm
First repeat of Stoking the Fire, 9b, in the dirty link-up hole.

http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/adam-ondra-claims-2nd-ascent-sharmas-stoking-fire-515b
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on February 20, 2016, 07:41:25 pm
Good report there!

I thought Santa Linya was rather spectacular indeed. It's hardly The Tor or Parisellas  :unsure:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Duma on February 21, 2016, 01:06:27 am
Great photo on the ukc piece
http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=70276
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: bigd942 on February 21, 2016, 09:08:47 am
Could only think of Kurt Albert when I saw the UKC pic.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: mini on February 21, 2016, 09:17:08 am
Why do I find it hard to get my head around the fact he's only 23!! He seems  to have been around for decades...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: 36chambers on February 21, 2016, 10:59:43 am
Why do I find it hard to get my head around the fact he's only 23!! He seems  to have been around for decades...

I was just thinking the same thing.

"This was Adam's 14th route of 9b or harder", I've never really considered just how many hard sport routes he's done, this is very impressive.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Luke Owens on March 26, 2016, 10:59:46 am
 Ondra attempting some on-sights last summer in Ramirole cave, Verdon.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sw0EpPe7IjY#t=434
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Rocksteady on March 30, 2016, 05:15:57 pm
UKC shows that Ondra is still tediously amazing, dispatching a lifetime goal's worth of waddish routes in a weekend - two 9th grade FAs, and two 8c onsights.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=70361 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=70361)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fultonius on March 30, 2016, 05:53:44 pm
Wow - the scrawny jangle of sinew and bone has turned into muscley beast!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on March 30, 2016, 10:39:15 pm
That article made my day when I read it yesterday. It's good to have details.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on April 27, 2016, 07:18:49 am
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uo64D1-Vumw
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on April 27, 2016, 12:37:50 pm
Nice to see he still has to try hard every now and then.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on April 27, 2016, 01:50:27 pm
Might be good enough for a proper shot at Hubble now.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on April 27, 2016, 02:11:06 pm
Having to tey hard on 9b's ins something that I could cope with.
Those dropknees though... Terrifying.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on April 27, 2016, 03:21:10 pm
Having to tey hard on 9b's ins something that I could cope with.
Those dropknees though... Terrifying.

Yes, frightening  :o

As for turning into a "muscley beast", his voice seems to have dropped an octave. He'll be shaving next. Then it won't be long until his first arthroscopy to fix his knees.

Super inspiring video though, and good to hear him breathing like an express train.

Other shockers - the number of 9b routes in Catalonia. And the run-outs. At what point does the belayer have to decide "Sorry Adam, you're coming off" just to stop him hitting the deck?

Thanks for posting that one up Slackers  ;D
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: standard on April 27, 2016, 03:25:13 pm
Having to tey hard on 9b's ins something that I could cope with.
Those dropknees though... Terrifying.

Yes, frightening  :o

As for turning into a "muscley beast", his voice seems to have dropped an octave. He'll be shaving next. Then it won't be long until his first arthroscopy to fix his knees.

Super inspiring video though, and good to hear him breathing like an express train.

Other shockers - the number of 9b routes in Catalonia. And the run-outs. At what point does the belayer have to decide "Sorry Adam, you're coming off" just to stop him hitting the deck?

Thanks for posting that one up Slackers  ;D

Santa Linya is very well bolted. Adam is just choosing not to clip (or can't).
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on April 27, 2016, 03:42:35 pm

Santa Linya is very well bolted. Adam is just choosing not to clip (or can't).

Yes, exactly, hence the question.

Adam's choice to run it out, vs the belayer's discretion. Difficult one to call maybe, though I'm sure the falls would look safer if the camera panned out a bit.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Duncan campbell on April 27, 2016, 03:46:10 pm
He'll be a long way up DT - Santa Linya is massive and mega steep so he'll just fall into space! Plus would imagine the bolts are relatively close together and mainly just dogging bolts?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on April 27, 2016, 09:34:19 pm
Adam Ondra cuts it quite fine sometimes with skipping clips, but he seems to be totally unconcerned. The future of alpine sportclimbing looks bright/terrifying
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: T_B on April 28, 2016, 06:42:05 am
I chatted to a friend in Spain when I was out in January who has a lot of experience belaying wads on 9as at places like Santa Linya. I got the impression it's not quite as simple as there being lots of space to fall into and that people were taking risks skipping clips and falling pretty close to the ground at times. She suggested that belaying at this level was quite a skill.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Duncan campbell on April 28, 2016, 07:31:07 am
Wow. Fair enough - it always looked to me like once you got high up in that cave you could skip loads of clips pretty happily. Do they get E grades?  :P
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on April 28, 2016, 08:49:13 am
I'd be intrigued to know the mindset; do they decide which ones to clip and which to skip in advance, or do they just skip them depending how they feel.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: bendavison on April 28, 2016, 09:15:13 am
I'd be intrigued to know the mindset; do they decide which ones to clip and which to skip in advance, or do they just skip them depending how they feel.

As long as you're comfortable running it out above bolts, then I think the mindset is often 'if you're not gonna hit the ground, why would you waste energy clipping?'. Most seem to plan which ones to clip/skip in advance.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: moose on April 28, 2016, 09:20:09 am
Reminds me of a period I spent regularly belaying Jacob Cook and Malham and Kilnsey. 

When he got tired, he would not do what most people do - clutch the nearest draw, squeal "take in!", and hope it went better next time.  Instead, he'd skip clips and keep on trucking in the hope that he'd reach a decent hold where he could gather himself (and finally clip). He would get quite horrendously run-out - made for a worrying belay experience.  Mind you, it generally worked - and I suspect that's the commitment you need if you are to really test your limits. 

It came as no surprise when he started ticking hard E-grades and doing well in Yosemite - he probably made climbing the stairs into a "chop-route". 
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: bendavison on May 26, 2016, 07:47:34 pm
According to 8a.nu he has just done Megos' Geocache, 9a+ in the jura. In a day. From his comment it sounds like it was in a few tries:

Quote
- Almost did in a couple of tries in the short morning session, but punted really hard on the very top. Then I took a rest and sent it in the evening. Regarding to the grade, I agree with Alex that it is strange route most of all (even though it is very cool and fun to climb). And hard too, but how hard is the question. I am considering that the route fits my style, being tall helps a tiny bit and I feel in a good shape, I guess 9a+ could be OK. But conditions were rather humid, even though it was not 30 degrees as the previous day.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on May 26, 2016, 08:15:09 pm
Showing Megos he's still top dog  :P
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on June 08, 2016, 11:29:32 am
Have we had this yet?
http://www.climbing.com/people/adam-ondra-the-future-of-climbing/

Excellent interview
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: submaximal gains on June 08, 2016, 12:31:33 pm
That's a great interview :clap2:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: TheTwig on June 11, 2016, 01:57:58 am
The article says that La Dura Dura is the worlds first 9b+, I thought Ondra did Change first, then La Dura Dura (followed by Sharma) ?

 8)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Muenchener on June 11, 2016, 05:39:41 am
La Dura Dura is the only one that's been climbed by an American, duh.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: habrich on June 23, 2016, 06:09:07 am
Post here ... or Quality Chuffing Videos?  :-\

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4yYV9yASRBI
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on June 23, 2016, 08:58:30 am
Post here ... or Quality Chuffing Videos?  :-\
I'd post it in "Useless promotional slick-edited videos with very little climbing and lots of talking about freedom".
 ;)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: joeb on June 23, 2016, 09:10:49 am
Agreed corporate guff.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Teaboy on June 23, 2016, 09:24:06 am
Anyone know what crag that is?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Stabbsy on June 23, 2016, 09:38:45 am
Anyone know what crag that is?
I think it's just down the valley from St Leger - called Mollans maybe?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on June 23, 2016, 12:20:14 pm
Another 9a+ FA to add to the list: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=70536
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Coops_13 on June 23, 2016, 01:22:28 pm
Talk of 9c projects, incredible!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on June 23, 2016, 04:03:53 pm
Another 9a+ FA to add to the list: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=70536

Maybe stick in the original source as well: https://www.facebook.com/fanatic.climbing/posts/1618882228422300 (https://www.facebook.com/fanatic.climbing/posts/1618882228422300)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: habrich on June 23, 2016, 11:41:08 pm
Post here ... or Quality Chuffing Videos?  :-\
I'd post it in "Useless promotional slick-edited videos with very little climbing and lots of talking about freedom".
 ;)

Ha, yes, I had only watched a few seconds of it before posting. Definitely an UPSEVWVLCALOTAF.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on September 15, 2016, 07:17:11 pm
Heelhooking on your forearm, mono fingerlocks etc
http://youtu.be/7Xmx2gYwsYo


Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L31 using Tapatalk

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on September 16, 2016, 09:01:08 am
where is this forearm heelhook? at 32 sec? Looks like he briefly puts his foot on his arm while repositioning?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: cowboyhat on September 16, 2016, 12:47:13 pm
Looks like Tommy and Pete should get on that.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Ged on September 21, 2016, 02:01:21 pm
I watched him trying this in the summer.  The hardest thing about it seemed to be the posing for photographs with hundreds of schoolchildren after each burn on it.  Looks outrageous though.  What the video doesn't show is the roughly 30 metres of 50 degree climbing to get there
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on September 25, 2016, 02:03:23 pm
About comp. climbing & some Yosemite pre-spray:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xzz7_jUdta0
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Luke Owens on October 05, 2016, 10:23:10 pm
Ondra did the FA of a new 9b in Alternativna stena, in Slovakia today. Named it "Robin Ud".

Then onsighted an 8c+ in the same day...

https://www.instagram.com/p/BLMaVL3h_wO/?taken-by=adam.ondra

Vid of him trying some moves:

https://www.instagram.com/p/BLKFn66As_W/?taken-by=adam.ondra
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: James Malloch on October 06, 2016, 10:56:36 am
Ondra did the FA of a new 9b in Alternativna stena, in Slovakia today. Named it "Robin Ud".

Then onsighted an 8c+ in the same day...

https://www.instagram.com/p/BLMaVL3h_wO/?taken-by=adam.ondra

Vid of him trying some moves:

https://www.instagram.com/p/BLKFn66As_W/?taken-by=adam.ondra

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item/70721/robin_ud_9b_first_ascent_by_adam_ondra

And arriving in Yosemite next Thursday. Some impressive ascents could start coming though!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Ged on November 29, 2016, 10:30:14 am
Is he still going to onsight Salathe then?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: duncan on November 29, 2016, 11:17:41 am
From Pavel Blažek on instagram (https://www.instagram.com/p/BNYQwXWhh7G/?taken-by=pavelblazek&hl=en) today: "Unfortunatelly there is no more time"

They had a couple of days rest then went back on the Dawn Wall for photos and retrieving the fixed ropes and portaledges.

I imagine he'll be back.

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Luke Owens on February 08, 2017, 09:31:42 pm
Ondra has made the first ascent of Mamichula, hard 9b, which is a link up of Papichulo, 9a+, and Pachamama, hard 9a+.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item/70938/adam_ondra_climbs_mamichulo_9b

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KVlGxVE_0uc
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on February 08, 2017, 10:36:36 pm
I like the whipper snappers who are more impressed by his english...  ;D
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: bigironhorse on February 10, 2017, 08:52:54 am
Freaking massive runout aswell! So good to watch climbing  :popcorn:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: bigironhorse on February 10, 2017, 08:56:51 am
I wonder how long he is in Oliana for? Do I remember Sharma mentioning in one of the Dura Dura videos that there is a harder project right next to it? Wonder if he will try that..
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: J.Kydd on February 10, 2017, 09:12:28 am
I wonder how long he is in Oliana for? Do I remember Sharma mentioning in one of the Dura Dura videos that there is a harder project right next to it? Wonder if he will try that..

Yeah, his 'Le Blond' project. Featured in this slightly weird video with his new bestie Jason Momoa

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nhx0DpWeO8k
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: bigironhorse on February 10, 2017, 09:29:37 am
slightly weird video

Agreed, highly cringeworthy.  :sick:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on February 10, 2017, 07:20:27 pm
Watched Ondra make the FA of the extension to Happy Hour at oliana today. Down as a 9a+? in the guide. There was some train noises and shouting so I assume it wasnt a total path.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: nash1 on February 11, 2017, 03:43:09 pm
3 days on and he does 9b FA, 9a/+ FA, 8c FA, onsights two 8c's and an 8b+.

Nothing out of the ordinary really for Ondra, but it just never ends! Unbelievable!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Steve R on February 11, 2017, 07:03:20 pm
I wonder how long he is in Oliana for? Do I remember Sharma mentioning in one of the Dura Dura videos that there is a harder project right next to it? Wonder if he will try that..
Doubt it.  Sharma's project innit. And he sounds heavily invested so unlikely to be giving it away. If the narrative from the dura dura movies is to be believed (no reason not to), sharma had pretty much abandoned the route and then only got inspired to get back on it after (presumably) 'letting' ondra give it a spin.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on February 11, 2017, 07:35:04 pm
3 days on and he does 9b FA, 9a/+ FA, 8c FA, onsights two 8c's and an 8b+.

Nothing out of the ordinary really for Ondra, but it just never ends! Unbelievable!

Ye but what's he ever done at Pot Hole Quarry.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Lurker on February 11, 2017, 09:17:34 pm
I wonder how long he is in Oliana for? Do I remember Sharma mentioning in one of the Dura Dura videos that there is a harder project right next to it? Wonder if he will try that..
Doubt it.  Sharma's project innit. And he sounds heavily invested so unlikely to be giving it away. If the narrative from the dura dura movies is to be believed (no reason not to), sharma had pretty much abandoned the route and then only got inspired to get back on it after (presumably) 'letting' ondra give it a spin.

http://enormocast.com/episode-31-hayden-kennedy-andrew-bisharat-pbr-frothy-climbing-spray/  About 14mins in they talk about that, sounds like Sharma was pretty cool with it all so he might be fine with Ondra getting stuff done ahead of him.  Depends if he's a little more keen on getting the FA (if he thinks he can/doesn't get burned out) for that though I guess.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Luke Owens on February 11, 2017, 10:17:50 pm
3 days on and he does 9b FA, 9a/+ FA, 8c FA, onsights two 8c's and an 8b+.

Nothing out of the ordinary really for Ondra, but it just never ends! Unbelievable!

Ye but what's he ever done at Pot Hole Quarry.

Not even Ondra could handle the polish on "The Dog".
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on February 12, 2017, 06:15:03 pm
Hello? Police? I'd like to report that the ondrawad was robbed today. Watched him make the hard bit of neanderthal at santa linya look like a 9b path, only for a foothold to snap on the no hands rest above.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: standard on February 12, 2017, 06:19:08 pm
Stalker
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on February 12, 2017, 06:21:44 pm
guilty
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on February 15, 2017, 07:03:01 pm
Quote from: Luke Owens link=topic=14977.msg544897#msg544897
Not even Ondra could handle the Polish on "The Dog".
[/quote

the Czech Republic is just next door, so he should be OK.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on April 18, 2017, 10:19:14 pm
"Queen Line" 9b FA in Arco https://www.facebook.com/fanatic.climbing/posts/1775164192794102, and a vid here https://www.facebook.com/fanatic.climbing/posts/1775164192794102
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: andy popp on April 19, 2017, 01:07:06 pm
And finished the day off by repeating a 9a+ apparently.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on April 21, 2017, 07:42:17 am
And a repeat of Lapsus, 9b. Then a 9a second go.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BTHvpfglEY4/

Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L31 using Tapatalk

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on April 21, 2017, 11:24:19 am
Got to be on for some sort of 'Best week ever' kinda thing?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on April 21, 2017, 02:15:36 pm
Is anyone keeping track of his totals still?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: bigironhorse on April 21, 2017, 02:47:09 pm
It would be interesting to know how many 9bs there are and how many of them he has done..
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: bigironhorse on April 21, 2017, 02:59:12 pm
Looks like there are 21 9bs (http://escalade9.wifeo.com/9b.php) and Ondra has 14 listed on 8a.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: andy_e on April 21, 2017, 03:05:54 pm
Lazy sod.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on April 21, 2017, 03:31:31 pm
only 66.66 % done. Finger out.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: JonB on April 21, 2017, 03:34:59 pm
It would be interesting to know how many 9bs there are and how many of them he has done..

Bjorn Pohl reckoned Ondra had done 17 9b or harder after he did that FA the other day, so 18 after Lapsus. That also means he's done 45 routes 9a+ or harder... Has anyone else even done half that?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: JonB on April 21, 2017, 03:39:45 pm
He does need to get his arse in gear and do Jumbo Love though.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on April 21, 2017, 04:12:50 pm
It would be interesting to know how many 9bs there are and how many of them he has done..

Bjorn Pohl reckoned Ondra had done 17 9b or harder after he did that FA the other day, so 18 after Lapsus. That also means he's done 45 routes 9a+ or harder... Has anyone else even done half that?

I don't think everyone else together have done that!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Duma on April 22, 2017, 07:06:01 am
https://www.instagram.com/p/BTLJFSilau6/
9a+ and 9a yesterday.

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Clart on April 22, 2017, 09:26:37 am
So is that 2x9b, 2x9a+ and 2x9a in the last week?!? I would imagine most pro climbers would be happy with as a full career achievement.

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jfdm on April 22, 2017, 09:38:25 am
https://youtu.be/gH7v70Ql9cw (https://youtu.be/gH7v70Ql9cw)
Liam L bouldering in Sweden.
Ondra prepping for the BlackDiamond Project at same wall.
This is apparently the worlds hardest indoor route.
https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=10155074258216605&substory_index=0&id=153989481604 (https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=10155074258216605&substory_index=0&id=153989481604)
Live stream on Sunday on Black Diamond Facebook page.

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on April 22, 2017, 11:46:53 am
WTF? Where's Ondra? I can watch people climbing seven-zeez in the gym seven days a week.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jfdm on April 22, 2017, 01:21:11 pm
 :coffee:
WTF? Where's Ondra? I can watch people climbing seven-zeez in the gym seven days a week.

At the end of the clip Liam plugs the Ondra on the black diamond project gig tomorrow.
Maybe bit hasty inserting the clip, sorry.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jfdm on April 23, 2017, 04:23:31 pm
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=12z4_RW8UjI (https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=12z4_RW8UjI)
Will Adam be able to do it?
Will find out in a bit.
Breaking in some new boots back at the ranch, his solutions look incredibly tight.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jfdm on April 23, 2017, 05:21:21 pm
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=12z4_RW8UjI (https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=12z4_RW8UjI)
Will Adam be able to do it?
Will find out in a bit.
Breaking in some new boots back at the ranch, his solutions look incredibly tight.
It's on now
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=rX8dagva4Ig (https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=rX8dagva4Ig)
There is a break for 30mins should be back on around 6.
Ondra hit high point towards end of big roof on his first go.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jfdm on April 23, 2017, 06:21:21 pm
The second half just finished - link doesn't want to work.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=jytIw6jJ9-A (https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=jytIw6jJ9-A)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Duma on April 27, 2017, 09:27:11 am
Interview excluding climbing:

http://emontana.cz/adam-ondra-interview/
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jfdm on June 29, 2017, 09:19:04 pm
Short clip about the Ondra climbing philosophy
https://vimeo.com/223604625 (https://vimeo.com/223604625)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jfdm on August 29, 2017, 08:34:58 pm
Ondra's flash/redpoint attempts now draw big crowds!
Footage a bit ropey.
He's a beast 17 minutes clinging to rock that steep is superhuman.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=R9T2OzJgHzk
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: bendavison on August 29, 2017, 09:13:11 pm
Flippin heck. How does he deal with that shit.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Dan Cheetham on August 30, 2017, 06:50:32 am
Was that a Billboard at the foot of the crag?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on August 30, 2017, 08:46:39 am
Guessing it's some sort of organised event........
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on October 09, 2017, 10:49:07 am
Looks like he's still got an eye for some lowball limestone hate crimping.

Drift, 8C, FA

https://vimeo.com/237305965
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: dave on October 09, 2017, 11:12:36 am
Some of his Czech crags really make Blackwelldale look good.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on October 16, 2017, 09:36:30 am
More butt scraping limestone goodness, this time at a weighty 8C/+.

https://vimeo.com/238180464
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: dave on October 16, 2017, 09:55:49 am
This is what I want to see, this is proper climbing. Ropey phone footage of people crushing their hardest stuff at their local crags. Dropoff at an apparently arbitrary hold. None of this eyepopping Rocklands shit, drones, sliders, timelapse, people only climbing hard when they've travelled half way round the world to find a problem that suits them. This is proper climbing, proper footage. Ondra is a fucking animal.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Wood FT on October 16, 2017, 10:07:09 am
This is what I want to see, this is proper climbing. Ropey phone footage of people crushing their hardest stuff at their local crags. Dropoff at an apparently arbitrary hold. None of this eyepopping Rocklands shit, drones, sliders, timelapse, people only climbing hard when they've travelled half way round the world to find a problem that suits them. This is proper climbing, proper footage. Ondra is a fucking animal.

I'm glad the best climber in the world is a proper climber
Title: Re: Ondrawad