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Drizzle and WoR
14 September 2011, 7:46 pm

Dry days- 131

Days of rain- 124

I headed up to Woodwell today, after chatting to Weak Sam yesterday (he mentioned the left crimp on AOSD looks like it has been chipped).  It was pretty drizzly all morning, but started drying up towards midday.  I couldn't be bothered with the Wall, so I opted to risk an outdoor trip.

WoR, if I had theoretically gone there, would have been dry but a little greasy.  If I'd tried climbing there I would have written the following account:

I had a look at Deal in Pain.  It didn't take long to suss what was required. The sitter into the RH hand undercut was easy, a sneaky left hand sidepull/ undercut thing helped sort the feet to get the left hand edge static.  The next two moves are the meat of the problem.  I was getting a right foot lock in the obvious cup shaped hole, although the little spike was agony.  This allowed me to slap the high right hand sidepull, and almost hold it.  The limiting facgtor here was the amount of pain the footlock caused.  Deal with the pain, too right.  After this I had a brief look at Prohibition Exhibition, but my first failed slap suggested more than one mat was required.  I did Australian Werewolf in Silverdale, then had a few more plays on Deal in Pain.  Once the heel pain was too much, I left for home.

So, I'm off tomorrow afternoon so I may have a look at the Wiltons, there's still some newer R-Man problems I haven't tried.  I'm hoping to get out a bit more from now on, now things are settling more.  Been getting the itch the last few weeks when I've been busy!!

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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Wilton Two
15 September 2011, 5:51 pm

Dry days- 132

Days of rain- 124

I had a spare hour, so what better way to spend it than in Wilton Two looking at R-Man problems.  I looked at Purple Feel, which was in the sun and roasting.  I managed the first couple of moves OK, but the move to get the left hand into the slot puzzled me.  I never nailed this one.

The Down Low was in the shade and thus next up.  I did it in a few goes, keeping the left heel on rather than spinning round to a right heel a la R-Meister.  This then made me think about a lower start, from the left arete into The Down Low.  I had a look but one move releasing a toe hook was hard to do.  I got it done after numerous goes, felt about 7a to me.  I did the left arete on its own at 6b, both aretes at 6b adn failed to do a slap to the apex at around 6c+/7a due to ruined skin- the arete is sharp!!

Sp once more, stuff to get back on.  A day of heels 'n' toes.

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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Should've gone to Woodwell
21 September 2011, 2:05 pm

Dry days- 134

Days of rain- 128

The weather has been pretty rubbish recently, and I'm on school run and therefore didn't have too long.  I had originally planned to head to Woodwell, but in the end I went to Wilton One.

First up I had a look at the block in the hillside opposite the Prow as I'd never looked at it before.  It yielded a nice wall problem at about 6b, tough first move.  Then an arete on its left, about 5, and another wall round right of equal difficulty.  I also did a nice dyno at about 6a, but a nice move.

After this I wandered past Remembarete, which was green and soaking, and ended up at the Prow.  I did Get Your Font Tick Here, quite a nice set of moves, then had a couple of goes at Robin's dyno which I failed utterly on- I'm presuming he used a high right foot, but this put me well off balance.  I got very close to the Yoga Dyno, frustrating, then did a little traverse across from here.  At this point I managed to get a shard of glass stuck in my left index finger.  It went in pretty deep and I had to pull it out with my teeth.  It wouldn't stop bleeding, so I ended up calling it a day.  I'll need to keep an eye on it as it's a prime wound for flexor sheath/ pulp space infection.

Crap little vid will no doubt follow soon.

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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Video
22 September 2011, 6:50 pm



Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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New Routing
28 September 2011, 7:08 pm

Dry days- 138

Days of rain- 131

This morning I met up with R-Man at the Wiltons for some looking-for-new-stuff action.  We wandered through Wilton Four, which was wet, then Two (which was wet) and then to Three, which was half wet.  In the end we headed to W1, which was also pretty wet.

We wandered down to the far left end, noting a couple of possible lines and doing some cleaning and tidying.  Then we headed back to the Outside of the Prow.  This was also fairly damp, but we had noted a couple of things to try and got to work.

The arete left of Fingernail went at around 6b- we had planned to do it on the right, but the logical line started on the right then skipped round left to the jug.  We then looked at the wall to the right, which didn't get on with me.  My right foot kept popping, so I tried a more direct using a foul LH sidepull that was only 2 tips and threatened pulley injury or laceraction.  I gave up, but R-Man persevered and was ultimately successful using a typical R-Man sequence.

I looked at the wall further right, the stand up going at 6a+ ballpark.  The sitter was an onvious challlenge, and a few minutes with a trowel flattened the ground and revealed a decent foothold.  I sorted the moves, but it took time to link.  Eventually Pocket Wall was born, it felt about 7a today but it was a little damp so take that with a pinch of salt.  Still more to go back for, and then there's R-Man's guide.......



Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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Arse
5 October 2011, 10:51 am

Dry days- 142

Days of rain- 134

The forecast was rubbish for today, but looked better out East.  I hasd planned to head to the Cliff or Brimham, but this morning was breezy but dry with bright blue sky so I decided to save time driving and go to Silverdale.

As I headed North up the M6 the skies darkened and there was occasional drizzle.  When I got there conditions were poor, I had a handful of goes on Screaming Slave but realised I was onto a hiding to nothing so left.

For some reason a lack of any motivation at all infected me.  Despite the skies clearing as I headed back home, and the sky being bright and blue, I simply couldn't be arsed going out.  So here I am, being grumpy and sitting inside.  Fuck it.

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

[andy_e]

I knew when I saw the thread title "Arse" it would be a post by you.

[GCW]

 

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Weakness and Sore skin
11 October 2011, 4:10 pm

Dry days- 144

Days of rain- 138

At the weekend I finally managed to finish clearing my Dad's house, so I'm hoping I'll have a bit more free time soon. My day off seems to have coincided with crap weather etc recently and it seems an age since I've done much.

I've just been to West View, and it certainly shows evidence of my lack of recent activity. I was only there for an hour and a half, my skin was really sore pretty quickly. I didn't manage anything harder than V4 but had a reasonable session. It certainly felt a lot harder than it should!!

Off tomorrow, but the weather looks crap again so I may just wander up some Wainwrights or run. Not done any running since the Cross Bay, and I've got the Manchester Marathon next April.

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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Bog Stomping
13 October 2011, 12:48 pm

Dry days- 146

Days of rain- 140

Yesterday I was off until school pick up.  The weather, typiclly, was foul.  It was blowing an gale and absolutely chucking it down.  I really didn't want to mooch about the house, so I ended up thinking of alternatives- and lighted upon my Wainwright books.  

As a child I've done most of these hills with the now late parents, but never kept a record.  I went through a phase of nipping up one or two hills on wet days a few years back, but got out of the habit.  Fed up with getting nothing done, I jumped in the car and headed to Kentmere.

The roads in were bordering on flooded, with standing water everywhere- thank goodness for Quattro!- and the rivers were verging on bursting point.  Walking up to the Garburn pass, the track was a river.  From the summit of the pass I headed left and up to the summit of Sallows via a swim through ankle deep bog.  No view at all here.

Looking cheerful on Sallows in the rain

After this a bog trot gently down and back up got me to Sour Howes, which consisted of mounds of bog that all appeared higher than the one you were stood upon, until you got there.  After a stand off with some cows i had been up every mound to make sure I'd ticked the summit, then admired the view:

I retraced my steps towards Sallows, then skirted left where the path crosses the wall and headed back down to Garburn Pass.  A gentle amble back down had me back at the car, a tad wet but pleased to have got out and done something.  2 hours round trip, including all the wandering over mounds at Sour Howes.  Don't feel hill fit though.  May see if MadMac wants to do some Munros this winter.

Looking towards Sallows from Sour Howes



Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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Repeating
15 October 2011, 6:12 pm

Dry days- 148

Days of rain- 140

I went back to the Wiltons today.  I headed to Wilton 3 initially and had a look at the small roof, but it was in the shade and therefore cold and not the best place to warm up.  I wandered across to Wilton 2, but there were some guys there shooting.  I don't think they were part of the gun club as they parked outside the gate, evidently not having as key, and hadn't put a flag up.  So because of the L255DEV boys, I sacked it off and went to Wilton One.

The Outside of the Prow was much drier than when I went with R-Man, so I had a look there.  My own Pocket Wall Sitter went down quite easily, and felt more 6c in the dry.  I then looked at Robin's Wall, and tried it using my original method.  This time I was pulling on with the left hand nasty sidepull, then got a high RH to a shit sharp crimp.  Then slap left to the obvious sloper crimp, sort feet and a crux slap to the finishing edge.  Felt about 7a+ to me.  After this I did the sitter to something R-man and I had looked at before but not really tried.  This started off a big flatty, snatched up right to a sidepull and then another snatch to a higher sidepull. After this a tenuous high foot gained the finishing edge- 6b+ I felt.

After this I tried Midgesquito Crimpelopes, and was slapping up to the left hand crimp but never held it.  I think this is one to go back to.  Anyway, video:



Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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Brimham Revisited
23 October 2011, 5:01 pm

Dry days- 152

Days of rain- 144

I forgot to mention about last Sunday. I had planned to meet R-Man for some new routing/ guide checking, but Sunday morning was a bit wet.  I ended up heading to Lower Montcliffe to have a look at R-Man's new problem, but everything except for Bach was wet.  I played on Back, but basically got spanked.  Again.  I think this is nails!!  After this I ended up heading to Wet Pooh with my sore skin and managed to flash a few V5s, but still failed to tick anything harder.  Sack o' cack.

Fast forward to today. Lord Pasty and I had opted to head to Brimham, the Doc and her SiL agreed to come along.  When we arrived, we wandered to the Pommel area and found an in situ Ginnster.  The ladies went for a wander, so I got my kit and proceded to be, erm, brilliant.  The mist was down which didn't help, but I did Pommel to the top out, which was wet.  Then I did Back Dog Arete to the top out, which was wet.  Ginnster insisted on jamming his way up these aretes.  We had a brief look at the hanging flake SDS, which felt impossible today.

We moved to the Hole in the World which had kicked my arse last time.  This time I was armed with the heel/ toe beta.  I was getting close to matching the lip, but then opted for method B:  LANK!!!!  Anyway, i managed it after a few more goes.  And if anyone wants to claim it ain't 7a that way, then it should be downgraded and all you shorties can accept yout beta is duff ;-)

We then went over to Pair in a Cubicle, which is becoming a Nemesis.  Today I was really close to nailing it, sliding off the final belly flop.  Next time, when it's cold, I'll nail this sucker.  Pasty Lord had a look at Murky Rib, and once he remembered he had feet nailed it very smoothly.

We all left after this, although as a NTS member I seem to have been given a parkign ticket.  The Doc, SiL and I stopped off at The Bull at Broughton for a late lunch.  I've never been, despite having eyed it up numerous times when driving past.  The food was excellent, a little pricey but at least to the standard you'd expect at this level.  Well worth a visit.



Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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Bloody Weather
29 October 2011, 4:44 pm

Dry days- 155

Days of rain- 148

I had planned to head to Brimham today as Met Office said all was dryness.  BeardyBeast was invited, but duly declined with the reasonable excuse that he is in Font. Git.  

So I headed East this morning in the rain of Lancashire.  Met Office still said dry o'er t'other side.  At Colne it was still raining and the skies ahead didn't look promising.  By Kelbrook it was still raining, and a quick check of Met Office now said rain all day at Brimham.  Brilliant.  So I turned round and came home.

After a trip out to Tesco (woohoo) I opted to go for a run.  I haven't run since the Cross Bay, which was over 3 months ago.  I didn't have a particular route, so I just set off at a gentle pace and listened to Van Halen.  At 1 hour 15 my left knee stopped me, popliteus again i think, so I walked the last mile home.  Looking it up I managed 12.4km, which isn't too bad I suppose.

Oh well, if this is grit season JB I ain't impressed.

As an aside, had some health news about a good friend of mine of 17 years- you know who you are, all the best for the op and the recovery.  Thinking of you, mate.

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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Ghost Goat
30 October 2011, 5:18 pm

Dry days- 156

Days of rain- 148

Today I wandered to Wet Pooh with Doc Jnr 1.  I wasn't great, started off okay by doing a V5/6 first try and loads of V5s.  I didn't manage anything harder, and went downhill fairly quickly.

The evening was spent doing some Pumpkin etching.  The Ghost Goat is here!!  (bit of an in joke I'm afraid)



Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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Pissed Off
5 November 2011, 1:31 pm

Dry days- 158

Days of rain- 152

Went to Earl. Failed on everything. Again.

When will I learn that Earl and I don't get on and stop going back?  Fuck it.

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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Crowds of Children
8 November 2011, 5:42 pm

Dry days- 159

Days of rain- 154

Drizzle this afternoon so the going out plan was shelved. I had an afternoon at Wet Pooh which went reasonably well. I managed quite a lot up to the usual V5 level, fell off a couple of V6s that I should have done and got a fair bit of mileage in.

I'd been there an hour and a half when all the climbing lessons started and I found myself spending more time waiting than bouldering, so I did some easier problems and then left. The forecast for my day off tomorrow is poor, so I may continue the half arsed Wainwright ticking in between child herding. We shall see.

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

[andy_e]

[Probes]

"We wandered through Wilton Four, which was wet, then Two (which was wet) and then to Three, which was half wet.  In the end we headed to W1, which was also pretty wet. "   

Love it, best blog on the net this Gareth, pretty much the only one i read.

Like they say there's always someone worse off than you       

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Venue Choice Incompetence
13 November 2011, 5:20 pm

Dry days- 163

Days of rain- 155

Today I intended to head out to Brimham, but being lazy I didn't get away as early as I had intended.  I decided to go somewhere a little closer, and after Probes' recent comments about Charlotte Rampling Direct I decided to hit the Kebs.  I sent the BeardyBeast a text to this effect.

The Sun over Chorley faded as I went along the M65, and by the time I was heading over from Burnley the mist was on the hills.  Helpfully, BeardyBeast texted me at this point to tell me the Kebs were covered in mist.  He did, however, have coffee and chocolate brownies so I carried on and went to chez Beardy.  I sat in the car to hear the end of the Armistice Service, then headed in.  D-unit was Ben 10ing, Mrs Beast had been sent out shopping (more halloumi).  After a coffee and a bit of brownie, I opted to head back West to see how the weather was.

As I headed home it brightened up.  I thought I'd have a look at Wilton one.  A fair bit was wet, so I had a look at the Graveyard area, initially doing the traverse link.  Then I did various eliminates.  I ended up trying a new eliminate involving a pinch on the arete and a big move to get a foot on and slap for the high sloper.  It felt pretty tricky and it's left for another day.

Need to get the 'bike MOTd and taxed, it's all due.  Maybe this week.  How come I now work part time but have even less free time than ever before?!?!

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

[Jaspersharpe]

Cos you spend half your life wandering around damp quarries?

[GCW]

You may be right there

Bike MOT today though.  Maybe........

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Wilton Mist
16 November 2011, 5:15 pm

Dry days- 166

Days of rain- 155

I took the bike in for its MOT this morning.  This was 12 months overdue as it has been sat in the garage all that time.  Therefore I wasn't surprised when it failed due to the brakes not running freely.  I ended up leaving it at the garage so it was 11:30 before I got home.

This afternoon I went to Wilton, only to find it full of mist.  I looked at R-Man's new problems but they were damp.  Sex in the Woods felt awkward, but having seen R-Man's vid I was doing it rather differently.  I briefly tried Barbara's Man, via another daft sequence.  After this I looked at Midgesquito Crimpelopes.  I snapped the left hand sidepull that I had used for my sequence.  I tried an alternative method, but it was also greasy.

I ended up back at the graveyard area, trying my pinch project.  I was getting close using some completely different footwork.  Another to go back to.

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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Blackstone Edge Revisit
22 November 2011, 10:49 am

Dry days- 169

Days of rain- 157

Bit of a delay in blogging, apologies!!  

On Sunday a team of us went to Blackstone Edge.  This was due to the re-write for the new Brick, as well as the topo I had done for the Edge 3 years ago.  Gordon and Bruce (Goodwin) hda kindly agreed to join R-Man, myself and the Ginnster to look at what I had documented and what was done in the last 40 years.

It was foggy/ cloudy at the White House.  We wandered into the small quarry, then on to the crag end.  The cloud dropped into an inversion and left us basking in the sun.  Unfortunately this didn't last, and we soon ended up back in the cloud.  We looked at the Back Edge, I showed Bruce all the stuff we'd done before- much of which he said he'd never seen climbed.  

After this we headed to teh Trig Area, much of what BeardyBeast and I had done before were old problems, as expected.  Wandering along to the Hueco Block area we again found much of what was old and rediscovered matched up.  Interestingly, Bruce knew that what we had referred to as Ape Hour and Nik's Traverse were done years ago by Nick Conway.  Heading further right most stuff matched again.  

R-Man and I had a look at Ape Hour.  I was getting fingers on the top some goes, but getting nowhere on others.  The drifting mist probably didn't help.  R-Man used a typically R-Man technique and beasted it.  A couple of his friends arrived from the Peak, whilst The Ginnster and myself wandered over to the right and did some of the good easier problems.  There's a foul mantel that we tried as a dyno, big move and one to get back to.

After this I had one more go on Ape Hour but discovered my skin was ruined.  We wandered past the Trig Point to the Crag Boulders.  The Ginnster failed to cruch the Double Arete/ Blackstone Best.  R-Man and Gareth.PB.info had a look at BeardyBeast's Fridge Hugger, but PastyKid and I had to head off.  Later I found out they had done it, and the shamelessly stolen video is below.  Seems to be a consensus of 7b+/7c.

Keen for a re-visit sometime, still lots of work to do.

R-Man and Gareth.PB.info on Fridge Hugger:



Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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Wilton Wet, Denham Trashed
23 November 2011, 12:20 pm

I went to Wilton One this morning, but as I drove South past Abbey Village the cloud thickened up.  I wandered around Wilton One but everything was wet due to condensate.

As I headed back home I thought about the recent reports of fire damage at Denham, so I thought I'd take a look.

Basically, some fools have set a fire under Crap Pot- this fire was obviously very hot as it has taken the surface layer off the crag.  The damage is localised but still significant.  The only surviving hold on Crap Pot is the right starting hand hold.  The higher holds that are slapped to are gone- the flakey area they existed on has peeled off.  This is unfortunate, as these are also the crux holds on The Denham Traverse.

So basically two of the best hard problems here are destroyed, and no longer possible.  I would strongl suggest this section of the crag is left well alone until natural weathering over the next couple of years stabilises the surface.

Gutted.



Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

[andy_e]

I would strongl suggest this section of the crag is left well alone

No change there then.