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[Lancashire] [Various] [6C - 7B+] Various (with video) (Read 136912 times)

andy_e

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Little bubbly iron pockets? I think I might have done that one (although probably only from stand-up).

GCW

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Yes, the stand up is about 6a+.  I had to dig out the footholds, so I'm confident the sitter is new.

andy_e

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Fair enough. I seem to remember it felt harder than 6a+ though, so maybe I'm thinking of something completely different. Or maybe I was a punter then.

GCW

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What do you mean "then"?

r-man

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Silly youtube. Take two...


GCW

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Went back to W1 today.  I did Pocket Wall SDS and it felt more 6c when dry.  I did Robin's Wall using the evil sharp crimp and a lanky sequence, felt 7a+.  I also did a new? sitter to the right via snatches between sidepulls, fun.


r-man

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Good stuff. Thought it would be about 7A+ when dry. Called it Children of Arachne, in honour of all those shimmering spider webs.

Here's something new from Lower Montcliffe, on the back wall of the first bay. Maybe 6B from standing, but tricky when started from undercuts - notch in right arete off limits. Fling Somefing, 7A+.




 

r-man

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The other day I climbed the arete beneath S Groove on both sides. Really good problems!
Bone Down - 7B+, start on the left.
Slipstream - 7A+, start on the right. 7B from sitting.


r-man

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Two new ones from the woods in Wilton 1. The first is a classy technical arete that GCW helped me uncover from a giant pile of dead trees. Thought it was going to be easy, but it turns out it isn't quite! Head to the very far end of Wilton to find this one. The second problem is on the Barbara Ann wall.

Sex In The Woods, 7A - The arete on its right. Slap the sidepull and finesse to a romp up slopey crimps.
Barbara's Man, 7B -  Crimps and a curvy sidepull, with a crux move to gain the jug on the route Baraba Ann.

« Last Edit: November 15, 2011, 11:15:04 pm by r-man »

r-man

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Did GCW's Crescent of Embrace today. Trickier than it looks. Nice one GCW!

For those interested - things were a tad damp in that bay of the quarry, but looked drier elsewhere.

« Last Edit: November 25, 2011, 01:06:56 am by r-man »

GCW

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Nice one, I think it's a good problem.  Interesting that you, TanMan and myself all used different sequences.

r-man

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Top conditions at Wilton 1 today, windy though. Managed to get up one of the harder projects. Ended up being by headtorch in the dark, so here's footage of a nearly go as the actual ascent is too dark to watch.

Fingertoe, 7C - from RH sidepull LH something rubbish, climb the wall to join Children of Arachne at the good hold. No arete jug.




r-man

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Team quarry-scrub visited the newly discovered Duxon Hill Quarry (near Hoghton) and here's a new problem.



Some pics of the quarry here - tradsters might be interested in the steep wall which looks like a short exciting line on big holds.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=17347

r-man

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Not sure what's going on with the UKC map. Have tried to change, but in the meantime, here's the location:


r-man

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One from Knowle Heights, in Darwen.

Race to Base, 7B
From the break on the right, climb to the far lip and up. No back left wall for feet.


r-man

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I've done a few new things in recent weeks. These are my favourites.

Brownstones, The Bignag 7B - wall right of Groundhog, stepping off the block.


Wilton 3, Graphene 7A+ - slab right of Crack and Slab


Wilton 1, Le Puriste 7B - sitstart to L'Arete, no big holds to the left.

CBA

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Good stuff,I'd wondered about the tight line right of Groundhog for a while.Keen to get on it now,looks like some fun moves!Nice to see Groundhog itself finally get the grade it deserves too,always thought 7B was a bit harsh;especially since I broke the RH starting crimp a couple of years back.

r-man

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Yeah, it's a nice couple of moves on small holds. I always thought it would be a 7C-ish left hand slap - would have been even better that way, but turns out right hand first is much easier.

Think 7B+ is probably fair for Groundhog with the broken crimp, though it's years since I last did it, so I dunno whether it's any harder than it used to be. Maybe a little.

Have you tried any of the Wilton stuff? Some great problems there.

CBA

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I must confess I've been a bit slack as regards the Wilton problems. I must sort that out,I'm only down the road,and some of the problems look damn good;I do like a bit of Lancs quarry crimping. Hell,I haven't even been to Jumbles or Cadshaw yet. And I call myself a Lancastrian.....

Fiend

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That Bignag is the second worst thing I've seen on here, after the One More Inch toiletball @ Stanage. I can't believe you're claiming and naming it, there were better lines posted in the Cotswold thread....is it the arete without the arete or the corner without the corner??

No offence or anything, some of the other stuff looks genuinely pretty good, Bignag kinda detracts from that.

r-man

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Have to disagree, I've posted much worse things on here! Bignag is quite an imposing wall when you are stood underneath it - it overhangs slightly and you have to step off a block to pull on, so the hard move is at a decent height. It is the wall between arete and crack - no more eliminate than loads of stuff in the peak - Play Hard, RHS slab, T Crack etc. etc. - and unlike all of those, you can't get off route once you have pulled on. The arete is no use anyway, and the crack is usually wet, so the wall is the obvious challenge.

It would actually have been a brilliant move if I hadn't found alternative beta - as it is, it's just quite fun.

I just read the Cotswold thread for the first time. Don't be ridiculous.  :lol:

EDIT - having rewatched the video with Fiendvision, I suppose it does look a bit squeezed in. It feels a lot bigger when you are on it though, and I think it's worthwhile.
« Last Edit: February 18, 2012, 11:41:51 am by r-man »

Johnny Brown

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Where's this one in the rankings then Fiend? Third?




Scouse D

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What you on Adam? That thing is top of my to-do list.

Fiend

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That is magnificent.

r-man

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Now that's the business! The bouldering pot noodle. In your face, king lines.

 

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