[Lancashire] [Various] [6C - 7B+] Various (with video) (Read 137659 times)

Jim · May 24, 2010, 09:34:12 pm

not wearing them scruffy clothes she ain't

GCW · May 24, 2010, 09:35:56 pm

Quote from: Jim on May 24, 2010, 09:34:12 pm

not wearing them scruffy clothes she ain't

So you prefer her without.....

r-man · May 27, 2010, 11:16:20 am

Quote from: Jim on May 24, 2010, 09:21:16 pm

that lass looks strong!

Respect at lass.

GCW · June 22, 2010, 09:02:48 pm

This evening I had a wander to Cadshaw. I did a problem right of Brian Jacques- jump start to the big jug on the arete, then up slightly left via crimps to the obvios jug. About font 6b, and quite good. I had a look at linking it from the Brian Jacques sitter, but didn't nail the crux- a weird diagonal dyno to the jug on the arete. It'll probably be in the 7a+/b ballpark, and it's a mad move so I may head back at some point.

GCW · July 04, 2010, 12:09:32 am

I've been to Jumbles a few times recently, a strange addiction I know.

I did R-Meister's Sit Thee Down, via a lanky sequence. 7a seemed fair:

I've been back today and managed a nice wall problem- The Crescent of Embrace- about font 7b/+, morpho and I expect harder if you're shorter. Shit vid below, and reasons why it's shit on the Blog, if you can be arsed.
I also did The Crescent of Embrace via a French start to the high edge, about font 7a.

GCW · August 26, 2010, 06:31:16 pm

Been back to Jumbles today, managed to repeat The Crescent of Embrace (after a lot of effort, even with Font fitness) and I reckon 7b+ is more correct. Better vid:

GCW · March 24, 2011, 02:55:10 pm

Adam Lincoln repeated Crescent a while back via a more sensible sequence, more likely 7bish.

Anyway, yesterday I was back at Cadshaw and managed to do the wall right of Brian Jacques directly. Around the 7a mark, but very conditions dependant. Nice dynamic moves on sloping crimps, Rivers of Blood.

GCW · May 04, 2011, 03:54:41 pm

Just back from Cadshaw, very chuffed to have linked the SDS for Rivers of Blood as mentioned here.

Basically the wall of Brian Jacques from sitting with only face holds and no sneaky heel/ toe hooks. I think it's about 7B+, with the proviso that my sequence is pretty morpho (slap for a sloping edge at full stretch) and it's a fickle wall with regards to conditions.

As an aside, the sit start is more logical that starting as above (noone else seems to be able to reach those edges from the ground!!) so the Rivers of Blood name now refers to the sit start.

GCW · May 04, 2011, 10:17:51 pm

r-man · May 05, 2011, 12:46:44 am

Nice one! Looking forward to getting on this when I get back.

nik at work · May 05, 2011, 07:58:10 am

Nice one G beast.

GCW · May 05, 2011, 07:59:33 am

I suspect you'd need a different sequence for it, Nik.

andy_e · May 06, 2011, 03:46:26 pm

Looks good!

GCW · May 06, 2011, 03:54:06 pm

Though I say so myself, it's the best esoteric Lancashire wall climb on weird slimy red rock in a dank little quarry ever!!

GCW · June 19, 2011, 02:54:22 pm

Finally managed the obvious dyno sitter to Jump Arete today, took ages to do it but felt easy on the ascent. i'll suggest 7A+ for now, but it's a mental move!!

GCW · July 06, 2011, 10:47:31 am

Anyone know (Andi?) what the undercut problem at Harcles is, mentioned here?

andy_e · July 06, 2011, 07:18:03 pm

Ha, what an idiot I once was. Yes, it's to the left of Blue Lamp, Robin managed eventually and gave it 7a+ I think. Some news on the news page:

http://members.multimania.co.uk/southlancsbouldering/homeslb.htm

What's Mighty Mouse G?

GCW · July 06, 2011, 10:22:23 pm

Couldn't see it on the news page? I'll look in the Brick.

Mighty Mouse is the wall left of Brian Jacques on nasty razor edges. ooooh.

andy_e · July 06, 2011, 11:21:00 pm

It's not on the news page actually, neither is it in the brick. it's pretty obvious where it is, seem to remember it's slightly eliminate and it involves a pop to a pocket?

GCW · July 07, 2011, 11:18:56 am

Thanks, may have a look sometime. Still got SuperFly to do.

andy_e · July 07, 2011, 11:01:26 pm

Me too, and the project...

GCW · July 07, 2011, 11:05:05 pm

Project?!?!?!?

andy_e · July 07, 2011, 11:22:16 pm

Robin would probably skin me alive if I told people about that traverse project

rginns · July 08, 2011, 09:48:42 am

Project? Lancashire?

Go on Andy, you can tell us...

r-man · July 08, 2011, 11:03:05 am

There are indeed still projects in most lancs quarries. Worked the moves on a nice small roof the other day, guessing it will be around 7B/+, hopefully get it done next time I get out. Still lots to do!

How's Mighty Mouse going, Gareth?

Talking of projects, with some summer dry weather, the Pit in Wilton 1 would be a good place to go for some highballs. There is a good 6A-ish problem on the left that I never topped out - the grass cornice topout proved too much, but I think you could abseil in and dig it off. Then there are a couple of 7A/B looking lines to the right...