[Three Nine]

Goals: Right Hand Man (Cheddar), 7c onsight, 7Bs, strong for Europe

M: Cardio (30 min run)
T: Anstey's, did The Cider Soak, hurrah!
W: 45 Power 2.5 hours, felt tired and not really on it
T: 45 Power 2 hours, felt a little bit better but not that much snap
F: Cardio (30 min run)
S: TCA, 30 deg woodie and a few easy problems. Got some virus, felt yuck, unproductive session.
S: Brean Down, did a 7c and some 7as. Climbed like a retard.

This week hope to train power and also get to Ansteys on Tues and do Just Revenge in a session. Also to get on an 8a at Cheddar at the weekend.

[Andy F]

Mon - rest
Tues - Awesome Liverpool. Bouldered on the 45 for about 40 mins, did one good new hardish problem. 1.5hrs mileage on the rope, 6c-7a routes.
Wed - work/family stuff
Thurs - light 20 min Beastmaker
Fri - hard 50 min Beastmaker
Sat - rest
Sun - Malham. Warm up as usual, then put the clips in Straightened. Taped up the finger tip that hurt on the crux pocket last week. Worked the bottom crux for a few goes, managed to stick it, so kept going to the rest on Baboo. Shook out, felt good so went for it. Clipped the bolt by the crux, got my right hand in the undercut and got ready to pull. Then I realised that the tape on my tip was rolling off and my hand was sliding out of the undercut! I slapped for the pinch but missed, annoyed as I felt fine.
Next go I do the hard start first go, get to the rest on Baboo and take the tape off. Shake and crush. First 8 of the year in the bag.
Cool off on a short 7b then nip to the Lister's for a quick post redpoint pint and early dart. Good day.

[Davo]

Monday: Rested, felt wrecked after 2 days trying High Life in Cave.

Tuesday: Board Session, kind of power session but ended up not being very disciplined about it. Did a lot of chatting and tried various problems. Need to be more disciplined about things.

Wednesday: Fingerboard (weighted 5kgs)

Thursday: Was going to do endurance at wall but wrist and middle finger felt a bit weird and possibly tweaked. So did a core/front lever session on the pull up bar.

Friday: Rested for weekend

Saturday: Was about to head to the cave and from nowhere a muscle in top of my back pulled! So spent day eating ibuprofen and trying to rest it. Doh!

Sunday: Back felt okay, still a bit sore but really wanted to climb. So headed to Cave. Again fell off High Life. Not a good session, actually went backwards on redpoint. Did sort out my mistakes on one part of it. Tried Lou Ferrino again at end when I was tired. Think I will switch to Lou F this week as I have wanted to do it for ages and I am tired of failure!

So overall a frustrating week but I guess that is the way of things. Would like to see some success again soon...

[shark]

Thanks for starting thread Threenine

Goal: Oak. 10,000 8anu points
Weight 11.5-6
M.
T. AM Yoga. Eve. Foundry with kids. Bouldered on Wave.
W.Lunch: 1hr Fingery endurance and some undercutting on Board
T.
F. Lunch: 1hr Fingery endurance and some undercutting on Board. Eve 15th Wedding anniversary meal with current wife.
S.Bit hungover.
S.Low motivation. Went up to Malham and son Ben came too. Nice chilly conditions. Motivation improved.  Had 3 decent goes on the Oak and dogged up Baboo. Had intended going on the Right Wing with Ben but looked wet. He had a couple of decent goes on Consenting Adults (perhaps should have gone on Rated PG at his age)

Generaaly lowish motiation this week and last week possibly due to workl pressures. Another long week – some work successes and frustrations. Family illness scare on Weds but turned out OK. Nice evening at Moran’s with Sonia on Friday. Not been there before. Food not as good as I hoped for. Looking at my diary this week Malham visit not on the cards so keep ticking over till next Sunday.  Can’t understand why I weigh so much as I feel skinny around midriff.

[Falling Down]

M - Early morning run 2miles with dog. Train to London, worked all day then flew to Aberdeen in the evening.
T - Work, flight to Manchester, got home at midnight.
W - Work.  Stretching pm.
T - London and back with a full day at work in between.
F - Started work at 5am, finished at 10pm - grim.
S - Nowt, mates 40th birthday, bed by 9pm.
S - Went climbing, with a rope on, outside!  Did six routes to 6c @ Horseshoe.  Really lovely day and was very surprised with how I climbed.

Horrendously busy week at work but was so happy getting out today and was pleasantly surprised given the Tennis Elbow problems and then three months of being ill last year.  Haven't had a rope on since September but managed to lead Rain Dance, Megalithic etc today. Really chuffed and looking forward to Siurana at Easter.

[tomtom]

STG 7B+

(away most of this week on fieldwork)
M - 10k walk (part of fieldwork)
T -  Had an outstanding lunch
W - A bit more walking at altitude.
T - Awful nights sleep - bad guts and mild fever. Some sort of gastric thing. Didnt eat a thing all day... bed at 7..



F - Spent 20 hours travelling back to UK. Ate one small pizza slice and cake.
S - Arrived back 6:30am. Ate one small meal all day
S - Knackered and de-motivated. Good gentle beastmaker session after clearing the immodium lag... felt OK ish. About to have a large meal and a beer  now normal service is resumed

Not sure how much weight I lost through shitting/not eating but my belts gone in a notch and a half... so some good news!

[lagerstarfish]

M - sick
T - sick
W - sickish; out on grit, climbed like shit, skin like baggy tissue paper due to dehydration
Th - aching joints and sore skin
F - coffee and croissant for breakfast, got 1000 words closer to Nobel prize, steak and eggs for lunch and then took baby and travel cot to trackside boulder for a quick circuit
S/Su - monopoly, cycling, wrestling

[Duma]

15th Wedding anniversary meal with current wife.

joining in...

Goal: proper 7C in the forest again. If successful, proper 7C+ in forest. If successful... etc

M:nowt, work nights
T:nowt, intend a quick session at TCA before work but post first night shift body clock intervenes
W: hour and half at TCA in eve before work - shite. keen after 10 days off post font trip, but skin appalling, soft and all the excess from a week in font just rolled off.
T: nowt, nights
F: nowt, nights
S: nowt, intended a proper long session in the pm, but once baby duty finished went for "quick nap" at 1400, woke up at 0300.
S: Baby minding in morning, TCA in pm - good session, skin much improved, 4 new whites, at  least one of which was hard, and progress on 2 more. Had a play on circuits at end of session when mate turned up. Thought about more structured sessions rather than my current nik@work^tm approach (turn up and mess around for a couple of hours). Discarded the idea. Bought Hoegaarden on cycle home. Good day.

Hopefully more sessions next week - night shifts this week slowed me down a bit. Would like to get a few more circuits in - do people think this is better done by a dedicated session, or spending some time at the end of my normal sessions?

[tommytwotone]

M - 5k run on lunch
T - 40mins hard-fought squash game at lunch. Felt shattered afterwards and I lost!
W - Pullup bar session / core session after work at home
T - Nowt, date in evening so drank a fair bit of rouge
F - Nowt, couple of beers post-work
S - Board session, felt great. Then watched Arsenal v West Ham in town, then off to the lady's for dinner
S - Lazy day - does watching Castleford get stuffed by Wigan ( ) count?

[Adam Lincoln]

Can’t understand why I weigh so much as I feel skinny around midriff.

Are you bulking up a bit muscle wise?

[shark]

Can’t understand why I weigh so much as I feel skinny around midriff.

Are you bulking up a bit muscle wise?

Unlikely as I have just been ticking over trainingwise for the past 3 weeks so I am fresh for Malham at the weekend but have put on 3/4lbs - just not sure where. I'm going to make a bigger effort to stay off the treats this week  and maybe go for a jog or two 
Are you still keeping the weight off ? Any tips on how to stay motivated ?

[nik at work]

STG - 8A in Font.

8B, 8b, (E8)

I can't really remember what I've done when this week. I've had a couple of reasonable board sessions ticking a couple of projects. I also went sport projecting and have now managed every move on a project, which is nice. Been working quite a lot this week, which sucks. Sunday my bottom went into overdrive, this is an ongoing situation. Sounds like a tip for weight loss Shark if you're interested?

[Plattsy]

Boulder Font 7A
M: Rest.
T: Foundry session. Usual problems. Elite problem in 2 halves again. The link is unlikely still. Pull/press ups.
W: Rest.
T: Foundry session. Usual problems. Ticked my second spotty problem.
F: Rest, beer, cider and tequila.
S: Wedding reception and beer festival - all day beer-a-thon.
S: Gardoms North - shutdown. Millstone - ticked Technical Master (need to go back for TM LH) and a little circuit at Over Owler Tor. Need to go back for Golden Arete/Spider Crack.

[iain]

STG: Font this Friday, 1 7B+, maybe Stubbs could share why he appears to be embaressed by doing Carnage assis, effort I think 
MTG/LTG: Freaky Ralph, onsight 7b

Mon: 12 hour cramming day
Tues: Passed exam, tried training, fingers had turned to rubber so didn't get past warm up. Decided to rest.
Wed: fingerboard, got 3/4 way through routine before powering out, demotivated
Thurs: easier fingerboard, barely started sesh as tendons/elbows started to complain during warm up  . Went to wall later and did some volume
Fri: can't remember, it's a void 
Sat: rest, buy some new shiny gear
Sun: Portland for routes, first proper sesh on Freaky Ralph and got nowhere on the crux, unable to find the short person's sequence. Otherwise felt like I was climbing and moving well.

Strange week, fairly sure I have peaked too early now, still aiming for Font goal but despite being tempted by other's radical weight loss plans main aim is to enjoy and climb loads.
Disappointed by Freaky Ralph, chose it deliberately because it didn't suit me, but there's not suiting and it being (currently) impossible. Will try and arm myself with beta and have one more good sesh before deciding.

Congrats to Threenine and Andy F for early season ticks 

@Duma, personally if I do circuits properly I can't really do anything else in the session, and I need a day off after

[nik at work]

Thought about more structured sessions rather than my current nik@work^tm approach (turn up and mess around for a couple of hours). Discarded the idea.

Good decision.

Stick with the At Work regime, it may not yield big guns but you leave the wall smiling.

[andybfreeman]

Goals – 7B in the forest, 7c route either here or in spain (may/june)

M – rest. Tried a Caldwell 20 min session but half arsed with too much rest between exercises and sets
T – session at TCA. Mainly circuits, got the new yellow 7a+ first go and did half a dozen laps tghen go distracted into trying problems, failed on some whites
W – power at mark’s, decent session
Th – planed to rest but decided to do a proper Caldwell 20 min session (5 pull ups, 10 press ups, 15 sit ups repeat with no rest until the buzzer goes) made it through did maybe 30 mini-sets
F – rest, aching like hell from my 20 mins exertion yesterday
S – long session at TCA mix of circuits and problems. Left TCA and when to the pub for a friend’s engagement party. Planned quiet(ish) night turned into a late one leaving dojos well after dawn!
Su – rest, see above. Supposed to be climbing at Brean…

Weight trending in the right direction, average for the week = 68.3kg but slightly ruined by eating too much on Friday night

Hopefully my body will recover better from the 20 min Caldwell sessions next week because I think it’s got to be good for general conditioning and they’re easy to fit in even on busy days

Next weekend I’m heading up to midlands so hopefully the weather will allow a day on the southern grit.

[Jaspersharpe]

M - Nothing, still coughing and sneezing but feeling slightly better.
T - Slightly better again. Went to the gym and surprised myself by feeling pretty strong.
W - Pain and sneezing.
T - Still quite sore from Tuesday but virtually 100% over the cold FINALLY.
F - Went to The Works and climbed ok. Nearly did one of the harder red problems that I was nowhere near two weeks ago (the last time I climbed). Went for a couple of pints with Lagers and grumpy. Planned trip to The County in June - psyched.
S - Pain and wine.
S - More pain. Went to two parks with the Mrs and sprog. Kicked football about.

Three weeks after it started I finally feel better from the minging cold. Having done nothing for over a week I was surprised at how strong I felt both at the gym and climbing. Just need to stay uninjured and healthy for a few weeks and I think I can see a path back to not being totally shit.

[Yossarian]

Monday - 30 mins recovery ride then weights and Beastmaker
Tuesday - 3 hour ride after work
Wednesday - Weights and core and Beastmaker
Thursday / Friday - Lazy
Saturday - Weights. Went to triathlon shop. Met international elite dude who trains for 5 hours every day. Bought proper trainers.  Went home.  Put on trainers. Mixed mojito.
Sunday - Meant to be doing sportive, but weather a bit crap so decided against it.  Then sun came out so spent the day doing proper Herculean gardening, digging tree roots out, etc. 

No news from Mens Health yet.  They don't know what they're missing...

[chris_j_s]

Weight: 63kg

Aims for 2010: rp 7b+ sport, o/s 6c+ sport, 7A boulder.
Stupid challenge to keep me motivated over the winter: Climb every problem in the room next to the tower at Ingleton Wall.

M: Rest Day
T: Bouldering at Inlgeton. Good session but despite getting close to one no new probs done this week. Finish off with a couple of circuits which I noticed big improvements on. PE work must be having some effect.
W: 30 minute deadhanging session.
T: Routes at Kendal. Plenty of long routes done and get close on a long 7a+ which I think may go next time now I have a sequence worked out.
F: Rest day
S: Rare routes session @ Ingleton. Routes setting there is still as hard as ever but get 10 - 12 routes done between 6b+ and 7a and warm down on a few 6b's. Felt really tired afterwards.
S: Had a morning free so popped over to Malham. Busy, busy there so got on one of the few free 7a's - Sycophants. Warmed up by repeating the first easy section a few times. Next time worked out the moves through the crux, then did it clean next go. Found it high in the grade but really good to get the 7's account opened for the year. Had lunch in the coffee shop and walked the dogs for the afternoon.

Probably no routes next weekend as Mrs (aka climbing partner) is on call. 

Nice one Andy F by the way for your tick on Sunday.

[Fatboy]

STG: Get strength and stamina back after 6 month lay-off due to herniating a disk in my back.
MTG: Repeat hardest problems done before injury and climb new project, Chillax (6c) in Glendalough, Ireland.
LTG: Boulder 7a in Font.

Mon: Work. Evening - General session down at the wall, pumped out after 30 minutes but just glad to be back.
Tues: Work. Rest - forearms feel like I did a whole days worth of climbing but expected it, worked in the evening.
Wed: Work. Rest - forearms recovering.
Thurs: Work. Evening - General session down at the wall - managed most of my usual warm-up problems before pump set in.
Fri: Work. Evening - Headed down to IMC hut in Glendalough for Irish bouldering meet, caught up with folks, drank a lot of fine English ales, headed to pub, drank Guinness, passed out in sleeping bag around 2(ish)
Sat: Opened eyes and winced at expected hangover but nothing there (RESULT!), climbed a few easy problems, fell off some others but back held out fine with no twinges (AWESOME!!), went to pub for Irish match, walked back down to boulders in the dark to watch night session
Sun: Acted as meet photographer, didn't get shoes on = rest?

Great week overall and just glad to be back bouldering and this week will include a more structured training regime which will hopefully be reflected in this post next week.

[nai]

Goals - 7C (most likely to be Demon Wall Roof Left-Hand)

M – very sore from two days on over weekend
T – still sore
W – Day of trad fell through so an afternooon at Ramshaw. Took 6 attempts to get Night of Lust which I would nearly might have onsighted a month a go only to be thwarted by wet holds entering the groove.  Couldn’t even read it this time    Shut down by Lust Left Hand, described as a crimpy rail so it should be right up my alley.  Progress on Ram Air was pleasing but it was eating my skin.  Then went on Tierdrop but my fingers were uncurling out of the runnel, tired by then I think
Th – a bit sore, set off for Ramshaw at lunchtime but saw sense and headed to supermarket instead.  Gazed longingly at almond croissants, there was a definite pause but I managed to keep walking.
Fr – 90 mins at Ramshaw, tried Tierdrop first, ok to the runnel but shutdown by the last move, seems a loooong way and also a long way down when you miss with no spotters.  Went back on Ram Air -  held the high gaston, smeared, brought my right foot up…..  Left hand shot off skinning my  tips and taking a couple of knuckles, landed badly and turned my ankle.  Swore a lot then hobbled back to the car trying to recall Boysen's quote about Ramshaw.
S – licked my wounds.
S – walked up to Birchen with 2 stone on my shoulders, intention was for the mrs to blodder on the three ships and me solo some easy stuff.  Just spent an hour chasing the kids around instead which was probably about as fun.  Fingers hurt to touch rock anyway.

Concious effort made to stay off snacks and wine after last week's indulgences.  Had two decentish sessions given that I was climbing with taped/thin tips.  Probably need to hit the fingerboard for a while until skin is repaired then get out and crush.  Got a bit of late season pyche returned, keen to get back to almscliff before the temps sore.

[JamesD]

Ok....so I took it shamefully easy this week, my fingers were toast after last week and I was just about completely useless on Sunday, seemingly unable to even pop up on the easiest of sit starts, proper 

So I took stock and decided to take a week off of bouldering and get some recovery time.

Monday: Swimming, steam, sauna

Tuesday: Weights, pushing exercises (inc: tricep work, dumbell chest press, and other similar stuff), intense core workout, long flexibility stretching session, missus was pleased as she is making substantial gains in her flexibility now

Wednesday: Rest, cigar, booze, hung out with housemates french boyfriend. Enjoyed practicing my slightly better than mediocre French.

Thursday: Looooong gym session, hammered the back and stomach and hips again, loads of wobble board and swiss ball work, felt good, had a nice long swim.

Friday: Longer Swim really went for it, then realised my cardio fitness has gone to shit (due to a lack of cycling in the last month) steam, sauna, relaxxxxxx.

Saturday: See above, bit shorter session this time though.

Sunday: Had a good time down at the wall, warmed up on some comfy V0's, hit a few V1's first time, did a load of others, was quite pleased my planned moves worked out, did my first problem on the 45 degree overhang, only thing frustrating me at the moment is not being able to nail the sit starts on 2 particular V1's, the only V1's that I couldn't manage in the place last night.
It seems I need to lose weight and work on my pinch grip strength a little, irritating as hell since the problems look really doable, and well within my abilities if it wasn't for the really tough hand holds at the sit start of each one.
The crazy cardio weightloss plan starts this week, and the drastic diet change starts from Friday (no more chocolate, no more cake....except maybe at weekends....)

[chillax]

Goals: Fair Head E3, boulder 7b, be able to do 2.4 Pascals by Dec's sequence

Mon: Lots of pullups and pushups
Tues: Nil
Wed: Murlough Bay. Tried a really hard 7a and made some moves. Found a (rare) sub-7c project which I might be able to do. Worked out the moves then it got dark. Must go back to that one
Thurs: Nada
Fri: Travelled to wicklow for meet (bomb scare on train. Irritating). Managed about half an hour in Glendasan before the rain rolled in. Got slagged for picking up northern accent. Didn't get too drunk again.
Sat: Great weather in glendo. Didn't climb anything I wanted to but did manage to get off the ground on some things I've never been able to touch before, even dropping the top of one. Frustrating, but still progress.
Sun: Wrecked what remained of my skin on some comically undergraded lowball at Turlough Hill. Nice moves. Will go back to it some day with thick skin. Buggered off back up north.

Realised I have a serious weakness on crimps and body tension. Will start doing a bit more work on that.

[shark]

Sunday my bottom went into overdrive, this is an ongoing situation. Sounds like a tip for weight loss Shark if you're interested?

I'll pass on that...

I once had a weight loss competition with a lodger - a chocoholic pharmacist. She resorted to laxatives to win until I cried 'foul'.

Some interesting examples of structural permanent weight loss. Keith Sharples 'permanently' lost a few kilos following a stomach bug in Thailand and Lance Armstrong famously came out of chemo with a different leaner body shape.

[Three Nine]

oh almost forgot my most important short-term goal of ranking above shark on the 8a.nu routes table